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M4GASI1VS DE LA VILLE DE PARIS, 

19S, rue Montmartre, near the JBoutevartt. 

This Establishment—unique in Europe—has not been founded more than five jears, and yet in 



GALJGNAM’S 


NEW PARIS GUIDE. 


VIEWS, CARICATURES. ILLUSTRATED WORKS. 


Messrs. Galigxani and Co. have on sale an extensive 
assortment of the above; as also Guides, Murray’s Hand- 
Books, Maps, Dictionaries, Books of Dialogues, and other 
Publications, in all languages. 


PRINTED BY CRAPELET, 9, RUE DE VAUGIRARD. 





NEW PARIS GUIDE, 

CONTAINING 

AN ACCURATE STATISTICAL AND HISTORICAL DESCRIPTION OF 
ALL THE INSTITUTIONS, PUBLIC EDIFICES, CURIOSITIES, ETC., 
OF THE CAPITAL; AN ABSTRACT OF THE LAWS AFFECTING 
FOREIGNERS; HIGHLY USEFUL COMPARATIVE TABLES OF 
FRENCH AND ENGLISH WEIGHTS AND MEASURES; MONEY; 
THERMOMETRICAL SCALES, ETC.; A TABLE OF FRENCH AND 
ENGLISH CUSTOMS DUTIES; INFORMATION FOR TRAVELLERS ; 
A DIRECTORY OF PARISIAN BANKERS, TRADESMEN, ETC. 


TO WHICH IS ADDED 


A DESCRIPTION? OF TBIE EWIRO^S. 

THE WHOLE COMPILED FROM THE BEST AUTHORITIES, 
CAREFULLY VERIFIED BY PERSONAL INSPECTION, 


AND 

ARRANGED ON AN ENTIRELY NEW PLAN, 




PUBLISHED BY A. AND W. GALIGNANI AND Co., 

RUE VIVIENNE, NO. 18. 








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IMPORTANT NOTICE. 

PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS AND MONUMENTS. 

. The present volume having been published immediate¬ 
ly previous to the establishment of the Republic, many of 
the references to various functionaries and offices to obtain 
tickets for visiting the public edifices, etc., have been 
changed. We give below the most important alterations, 
in order that the visitor may not be inconvenienced by 
the present state of public offices. This, it is unnecessary 
to add, detracts nothing whatever from the general ac¬ 
curacy of the work.—These and other changes of a similar 
cast are of the less consequence, as the Stranger will find 
the Domestiques de Place (a most useful and intelligent 
class) perfectly acquainted with all such alterations. 

Ely see Bourbon. —Not to be seen, being the residence 
of the President of the Republic. 

Palace of the Tuileries. —To view the apartments still 
worth seeing, apply for permission to M. le Ministredes 
Travaux Publics. 

Palace of the Palais-Royal. —Closed. 

Chamber of Deputies. —Write for tickets two days in 
advance to M. lo Questeur de la Chambre des Deputes. 

Palace of the Luxembourg and Library of the late 
Chamber of Peers.—Open every day with Passport. 

Royal Stables. —No longer worth seeing. 

Gardes Meubles.— Closed. 

Late Royal Palaces. —Write to the Gouverneur of each. 

Liste Civile. —For all that was to be had from Intendanl 
de la Liste Civile , write to Directeur of each establishment. 

Palace and Galleries of Versailles .— Open every day, 
but on Thursdays and Fridays apply for ticket to M. Amat, 
at the Palace.— Grand et Petit Trianon : Open every day 
with Passport—from 11 till 5 o’clock. 

Palace of St. Cloud. —Open every day with Passport 
from 11 till 5 o’clock.—But only when the President of 
the Republic does not reside there. 

Sevres. —Manufacture open every day from 11 to 4 
Museum open on Tuesdays and Saturdays. On other days, 
write for ticket to M. le Ministre du Commerce. 

We may add that many places are now thrown open 
where passports or tickets were formerly required. 

Postage of Letters. —There is now a uniform tax of 4 
sous for Letters throughout France. The Postage to and 
from England has been reduced to 16 sous. 

A reduction has also been made in postages to and 
from Switzerland, Belgium and parts of Germany. 



New Railroads. —Since this work was published, the 
Paris to Lyons, and Paris to Strasbourg Railroads have 
been partly opened; also that from Paris to Chartres. 

A visit to Fontainebleau is now very easily accom¬ 
plished in a day, since the partial opening of the Lyons 
Railroad. 

NAMES OF STREETS OF PARIS. 

So many changes have been made in the last twelve 
months in the names of the Streets and Places, that a re¬ 
capitulation of the names they now bear may be useful. 
We cannot, however, help observing that many of these 
changes are so absurd, that the authorities would do well 
in future to allow none to take place without some reason¬ 
able motive; the streets however continue to be much 
better known by their former names than by those re¬ 
cently given them. The Palais Royal is now the Palais 
National—the Rue de Yalois-du-Palais, the Rue du 24 
Fevrier—Rue Beaujolais, Rue Hoche—Rue Montpensier, 
Rue Marceau—Galerie Montpensier, Galerie des Combats 
—Rue Pierre-Lescot,Rue de 1’Egalite—Rue du Dauphin, 
Rue de la Convention—Rue de la Paix, Rue Napoleon— 
Rue Royale-Saint-Honore, Pont et Place Louis XY et 
Louis XVI, are now Rue, Pont, and Place de la Concorde— 
Rue de Joinville, Rue du Cirque—Rue du Chemin de 
Versailles, Rue du Banquet—Rue d’Angouleme, Rue de 
I’Union—Rue Neuve de Berry, rue de la Fraternite—Rue 
des Ecuries d’Artois, Rue de la Reforme—Rue de Valois 
du Roule, Rue Cisalpine—Ely see-Bourbon, Elysee-National 
—Rue Coquenard, Rue Lamartine—Rue Bourbon-Ville- 
neuve.Rue and Place d’Aboukir—Rue Royale-St.-Martin, 
Rue Nationale—Rue Rambuteau, Rue de la R^publique— 
Pont et Rue du Pont Louis-Philippe, Rue et Pont de la 
Reforme—Rue Lobeau, Rue Francois-Miron—Rue du 
Long-Pont, Rue Jacques Debrosse—Rue et Place Royale¬ 
st.- Antoine, Rue et Place des Vosges—Rue des Char- 
bonniers-St.-Antoine, Rue de Bethmont—the Rues de 
Lappe, et Neuve de Lappe, which after 1830 Avere called 
Louis-Philippe, have resumed their original names. On 
the Left Bank of the Seine, the Rue des Mauvais Garcons 
has become Rue Gregoire de Tours—Rue Saint Dominique 
d’Enfer, Rue Royer-Collard—Rue des Deux Eglises, Rue 
de l’Abbe de l’Epee — the Rue des Boucheries Saint-Ger¬ 
main is now the continuation of the Rue de l’Ecole de 
Medecine—the Faubourg du Roule, that of the Faubourg 
Saint-Honore—the Petite-Rue-Saint-Roch, the com mence- 
ment of the hue des Jeuneurs. 




Paris, within the last ten years, has undergone so many and 
such important alterations, as to astonish even the resident, in 
his comparison of what the capital was at a very recent period 
with what it is at the present moment. These changes have 
demanded from the publishers of this new and enlarged edi¬ 
tion of the Paris Guide more than ordinary attention, and a 
careful verification of the whole, by the latest inspection of all 
the public monuments, institutions, and improvements both of 
the metropolis and of its vicinity. 

In minutely detailing modern Paris, the ancient parts of the 
City, which abound in remains of the middle ages, and of the 
epoch of the renaissance des arts, have not been forgotten. Old 
Paris, though rarely explored by strangers, or even by natives, 
will abundantly repay the visit of the antiquary and the artist; 
and this interesting class of sights, which is passed over too 
lightly, or not at all noticed, in most Guides, has here been 
particularly attended to. 

The Guides hitherto composed are generally quite unworthy 
of the matter they treat of. In the present work there will 
■ be found condensed an immense quantity of valuable and inte- 
I resting information, books of the first authority having been 
consulted on the history and antiquities of Paris; while per¬ 
sonal knowledge has supplied with great accuracy the account 
of all that now meets the eye in the metropolis. In the col¬ 
lection of this information, and in Ihe compilation of the work, 
neither time nor expense has been spared. 

Paris is one of the great centres not only of French but of 
continental intellect; from its press the most valuable and nu¬ 
merous publications are constantly issuing; it takes the lead in 
scientific research and discovery, and has every claim to be 
considered a magnificent and wonderful city. Its superb and 
beautiful collections of ancient and modern art, with an admi¬ 
rable spirit of generous liberality, are thrown gratuitously open 
not only to natives, but particularly and at all seasons to fo¬ 
reigners. In every branch of knowledge lectures are delivered 
gratis by the most eminent professors, and the traveller who 








PREFACE. 


ij 

has paid the least attention to the fine arts becomes, on ar¬ 
riving in Paris, in some measure identified with them; even the 
public amusements of the capital tend to the improvement of 
the mind, and the advance of civilization. 

The metropolis is naturally salubrious, and the purity of its 
atmosphere may be at once ascertained by viewing it from an 
elevated situation. How unlike the view from the top of St. 
Paul’s in London, with its canopy of fogs and clouds, and its 
sickly sunbeans! There, every building is blackened with 
smoke, and the eye looks down upon obscuring vapours and 
mists; but if Paris be seen from the towers of Notre Da>ne, the 
Pantheon, the Arc de Triomphe de L'Etoile, the Dome of the 
Invalides, or the heights of Montmartre, the panorama is com¬ 
plete; there is no indistinctness or confusion in the prospect; 
every palace, church, and public edifice stands distinctly be¬ 
fore the eye, and, interspersed with the foliage of the gardens 
and the boulevards, the whole forms a prospect at once grand 
and beautiful. It need hardly be added that this lively metro¬ 
polis is the most attractive emporium of pleasure and literature 
in the world, and, at the same time, the cheapest for the ad¬ 
vantages it presents; circumstances which render it the ge¬ 
neral rendezvous for all nations of the globe. 

In the arrangement of this book, a plan has been adopted, 
which has been deemed best calculated not only to increase 
the simplicity and perspicuity of the account, but also to save 
the visitor much useless expenditure of time and exertion. 
Whatever relates to the institutions and general statistics of 
Paris has been put into the Introduction; while each building 
is described in the arrondissemenl in which it occurs, and the 
arrondissement itself is placed in its regular order among the 
rest of the same divisions of the capital. The visitor is sup¬ 
posed to start from the central point of the Place Venddme, to 
study his map of Paris with care, and then to go through the 
arrondissements, inspecting their contents in the order in which 
they are arranged in this work, or omitting some according to 
his taste and inclination. By so doing he will see every thing 
in a comparatively short space of time, and will pass over 
nothing that is really worthy of being examined by the tourist. 
By a reference to the Index, where all the objects described 

the body of the work are carefully classified, the reader may 
easily see, at one glance, the whole of any particular class of 
things of which he may be in search. There are, however, 
many persons who visit Paris for only a few days, and who 




PREFACE. jjj 

therefore have not time to inspect all the arrondissements of 
the town in detail, as they are here treated. To such persons 
a list of places that are absolutely indispensable to he seen, by 
any one who would at all wish to know Paris, will not be un¬ 
acceptable; and it is therefore here subjoined, arranged in the 
order which is the most convenient for the saving of time. 
The visitor is strongly recommended, as a general reference, 
to consult the article headed Stranger's Diary, in the Eng¬ 
lish newspaper, Galignani’s Messenger, which is taken in at all 
the principal cafes, restaurants, etc., or may be subscribed for 
by the day or month, and where whatever is to be seen on 
the day of publication is always mentioned, with all necessary 
information concerning it. 


LIST OF PLACES THAT MUST BE SEEN BY A STRANGER, 
With reference to page of Guide at which they are described. 


Palace of Tuileries and Triumphal 
Arch of (he Carrousel (p. H6). 
TheLouvreand itsMuseums(p. 1 57). 
Palace and Galleries of (he Palais 
Royal fp. 172). 

Column of Place VendOme fp. 180). 
Obelisk of Luxor and the Place de 
la Concorde (p. 184). 

Triumphal Arch at (he Barriere de 
I’Etoile Cp. 192). 

Chapel of St. Ferdinand (p. 1 96). 
Chapelle Expialoire fp. 203). 
i Church of (he Madeleine (p. 206). 

| —Notre Dame de Lorcite (p. 214). 

! —St. Vincent de Paule fp. 2i6). 
Exchange fp. 220). 

Bibliotheque Royale fp. 222). 
Conservatoire,Arts,Metiers (p.2Gl). 
Abattoir of Popincourt (p. 277). 
Cemetery of Ptire Lachaise (p. 279). 


Column de la Bastille f p. 288). 
Cathedral of Notre Dame (p. 303). 
II6tel de Ville (p. 328). 

Palais du Quai d’Orsay fp. 334). 
Chamber of Deputies (p. 337). 
H6lel des Invalides and Tomb of 
Napoleon fp. 342). 

Artesian Well of Grenellc (p. 355). 
Museed’Arfillerie (p. 364). 

Church St.Germain des Presfp. 367 ). 
The Mintfp. 371 ). 

Ecole des Beaux Arts (p. 376). 
HOtel Cluny (p. 397). 

Garden of Plants,Museums (p. 442). 
Manufactory of the Gobelins (p. 437 
Pantheon (p. 4t2). 

Church St. Etiennedu ytontfp. 415 ). 
Palace of Luxembourg, Picture Gal¬ 
lery, Chamber of Peers (p. 3S5). 
Church of St. Sulpice (p. 382). 


St. Cloud f p. 501). Neuilly fp. 495). 

SOvres—ChinaMauufactoryfp. 500) Fontainebleau fp. 484). 

Versailles fp. 5iC). Abbey of St. Denis (p. 507). 

The stranger in Paris is also advised to attend high mass at 
the cathedral of Notre Dame, or at the churches of St. Roch, 
St. Eustache, or Notre Dame de Lorette, at 12 any Sunday 
morning, if he would witness an imposing spectacle, and ho 
gratified with excellent music. 







IV 


PREFACE. 


To obtain tickets where they are required, the visitor must 
address a letter to the proper person, indicated in each case 
throughout the work, in the following terms; and either leave 
it at his residence, or send it, franked, by post. He will then 
receive in a day or two the special permission desired. 

M. -[giving his title, etc.] 

J’ai Vhonneur de vous prier de vouloir bien me faire adresser 
un billet pour [name number of persons], a fin de visiter [insert 
name of places]. N’ayant que peu de jours d rester a Pans, il 
me serait tres agreable de le posseder aussxtot que possible. 

Veuillez recevoir, avec mes remerciments, I’assurance de la 
haute consideration avec laquelle j’ai Vhonneur d’dtre, 

M. [repeat title], 

Votre tres humble serviteur, 

[Sign name with address, very clearly written.] 

As several of the permissions required to view objects worth 
visiting in Paris are to be procured from three Officers of the 
Household, the stranger would do well, immediately on his 
arrival, to write the above letter to them for a ticket or 
tickets, mentioning the places they may wish to see, as by this 
means they will save themselves the trouble of addressing the 
same personage more than once, and also avoid much loss of 
lime.—To M. I’Intendant de la Liste Civile, 9, Place Vendome, 
he must ask for tickets for the Palais Royal, l’Elysee Bourbon, 
the Carde Meuble, Manufacture de Porcelaine de Sevres, Palais 
de St. Cloud, les deux Trianons, and la Salle de l’Opera du 
Chateau de Versailles, Chateau de Meudon, Chateau de Com- 
piegne.—To M. VAdrninistrateur du Domaine Prive du Roi, 
No. 216, Rue St. Honord, for admission to the Palais de Neuilly 
and the Parc de Monceaux.—To M. le Directeur des Bdtiments 
et Monuments Publics, au Ministere des Travaux Publics, 58, 
Rue St. Dominique, for the Ateliers de Sculpture. 

Much delay and vexation have however been several times 
occasioned by the negligence existing in some of the public 
offices with regard to applications of this kind; and the best 
way for the stranger who does not receive a speedy reply to 
his letter is to call for it in person at the office of the func¬ 
tionary to whom if refers. To this il may be added, that while 
leave rarely is granted to visit the interior of the prisons, the 
hospitals and other charitable institutions are thrown open, 











PREFACE. 


V 


not only to the curious, but also to the necessitous stranger, 
with a liberality that cannot he loo highly commended. 

In consequence of the frequent errors which occur in the 
delivery of journals casually sent from Paris to England the 
following direction in posting them is necessary : all news¬ 
papers can only he put either into the grand post-office rue 
Jean Jacques Rousseau or into one of the principal receiving 
houses, where,'with the address written on a hand of paper 
put round the journal, 4 centimes must he paid with each for 
postage. 

The visitor of Paris who is inclined to go to a hoarding-house 
should he very careful to choose one of respectability; and w,e 
feel it our duty to caution the public against a kind of esta¬ 
blishment that is apt to deceive foreigners, and which has be¬ 
come very prevalent in this capital since the abolition by law 
of public gambling-houses. Many persons have opened tables- 
d'hote and boarding-houses, under cover of which card-playing 
to a considerable extent is carried on in the evening, and the 
unwary visitor may be easily inveigled to play, and to lose 
sums to a large amount. They are frequented by persons of 
both sexes, of fashionable exterior, but of very indifferent 
character. 

The best way for persons visiting Versailles, is to leave Paris, 
not later than 9 in the morning, either on Saturday, Sunday, 
Monday, or Tuesday (those being the only days when the in¬ 
terior of the palace is open to the public), and to proceed by 
the Versailles and Meudon railroad (left bank), Barriere du 
Maine, the station-house of which at Versailles is the nearest 
to the palace. This will give lime to allow of a cursory glance 
being given to the exterior of the palace, and at 11 o’clock, 
the time of opening the doors, visitors can enter at once and 
inspect the interior without being annoyed by the crowd. 
After seeing the historical galleries, and the gardens, the stran¬ 
ger may visit the Trianons, which require a ticket, and to re¬ 
turn to Paris the Versailles and St. Cloud railroad (right bank) 
should be taken, by which means two magnificent views of 
Paris and the neighbouring country will have been obtained, 
one from the south by the former railroad, the other from the 
west and northwest by the latter. 

Hitherto a visit to Fontainebleau was too often omitted on 
account of the distance; but, since the opening of the Corbeii 
railroad, it can be performed with ease and rapidity. The visitor 
on leaving Paris by the first (in summer 7 and in winter 8 or 


PREFACE. 


vj 

9 o’clock) train, will be in Fontainebleau by 11 to 1 o’clock. 
Care must be taken to ask for a place by the Fontainebleau 
coaches from Corbeil at the station in Paris before starting. 
By this means a priority of places will be insured all the way 
to Fontainebleau; but, even if this be omitted, small vehicles 
d volontd may be obtained at Corbeil, in case of the coaches 
being full, for the price of which a bargain must be made, and 
the visitor will then be conveyed to Fontainebleau, only not 
quite so quickly and comfortably as by the regular coaches. 
Previous to going to the palace, especial care should be taken 
to secure a place back to Corbeil by the latest conveyance; 
that is to say, by the coach which starts at about G, so as to 
reach Corbeil in time for the last train to Paris. The magni¬ 
ficent palace, more historic in its decorations than Versailles, 
and with its park and gardens forming altogether the finest 
sight of the kind in France, may then be fully inspected. 
Though the visitor will have passed through part of the fa¬ 
mous forest of Fontainebleau in approaching the town, a 
second day, if it can be afforded, will be well spent in visiting 
its romantic beauties and rocky scenery. If the trip be made 
in summer and the visitor be not afraid of a little fatigue, he 
will have lime, after seeing the Palace and Park, to hire a car¬ 
riage for a drive of a couple of hours to the more picturesque 
points of the forest, and be back for the coach. This will 
however only leave him time for a very brief dinner, unless 
he contents himself by taking a luncheon in the carriage. We 
would advise the stranger to return to Paris by the steam¬ 
boat, if he has time, and visits Fontainebleau in summer, the 
scenery of the river Seine being well worth seeing. 

Many other delightful excursions may be made in the envi¬ 
rons of Paris by hiring a carriage by the day; of those, the best 
and most picturesque are, to Mortefontaine, Ermenonville, 
Senlis, Compi&gne, and Chantilly, a charming trip of three or 
four days. To St. Denis, Ecouen, Montmorency, and Enghien 
les Bains, one day; to Bougival, Marly, and Saint Germain en 
Laye, one day; to St. Cloud, Sevres, Bellevue, and Meudon, 
one day; to Sceaux, ChAtillon, and Fontenay aux Roses, one 
day; to Vincennes and Fontenay aux Bois, one day; and by 
the diligence to Rambouillet. 

The Fdtes of most of the places in the environs of Paris take 
place on a Sunday, but not on regular fixed days; several 
changing the days with the moveable feasts. To avoid leading 
the stranger into error, we have decided on not annexing 







PREFACE. 


vij 

them to each of the places we describe; referring the reader 
for correct information to the notices which are constantly 
published in advance in the daily English journal, Galignani’s 
Messenger. 

It has been often remarked that the English stranger, on 
arriving in Paris, is at a loss to choose among the multiplicity 
of good things presented to his taste by the cartes of the res¬ 
taurants at which he dines, some of which contain three or 
four hundred dishes. The following brief list, therefore, of 
some of the better—and including several of the more de¬ 
cidedly national—of the French dishes, will be well received, 
it is hoped, by the gastronomic traveller. 

Soups ( Potage ). 

A la julienne. Au riz et A la puree. 

Au macaroni. Puree aux croutons. 


Meats ( Viande). 


Beefsteak, au beurre d’ancbois. 
Filet de boeuf, au vin de Madere. 
Fricandeau, sauce tomate. 

Ris. pique a la financiere. 

Ditto, a la pouletle. 


Tete de veau, en matelolte. 

T£te de veau, en tortue. 

Cdlelette de mouton, a la Soubise. 
Ditto, saulee aux truffes. 

Rognons, au vin de Champagne. 


Poultry ( Volaille ). 


Chapon, au gros sel. 

Potilet, a la Marengo. 

Ditto, en fricassee. 

Ditto, a la tartare. 

Ditto, en Mayonnaise. 

Ditto, saute aux champignons. 
Supreme de volaille. 


Coquille a la financiere. 
Croquettes de volaille. 
Salade de volaille. 

Ditto, a la Mayonnaise. 
Ragodt a la financiere. 
Canneton de Rouen r6ti. 
Foie gras, en caisse. 


Game ( Gibier ). 


Perdreau, en salmis aux truffes. Caille, A la financiere aux truffes. 
Ditto, rdti. Ditto, rotie. 

Pastry ( Pdiisserie ). 

Vol-au-vent, a la financiere. Vol-au-vent, de filet de volaille aux 

Ditto, de saumon. truffes. 

Ditto, de ris de veau aux truffes. Pates de foie gras. 

Ditto, de turbot a la bechamelle. 


Fish ( Poisson ). 


Turbot, sauce aux huitres. 
Ditto, sauce aux capres. 
Saumon, sauce aux capres. 
Ditto, a la Genevoise. 
Truite, en Mayonnaise, 
Eperlan, au gralin. 

Ditto, frit. 


Sole, au gralin. 

Ditto, A la Normnnde. 

Filet de sole, a la maitred’hdtel. 
Matelotte de carpe el d’anguille, 
Anguille, a la tartare. 
Bechamelle de poisson. 

Coquille aux huitres. 


V1IJ 


PREFACE. 


Side Dishes ( Entremets ) 


Coquille, aux champignons. 
Macaroni, au gralin. 
Choux-fleurs, au Parmesan. 


Omelette, aux fines herbes. 
Artichauls, a la barigoule. 
Ditto, frits. 


Sweet Ditto ( Entremets au Sucre ). 


Beignels de pomme. 
Ditto d’abricots. 


Omelette soufflee. 


Charlotte, aux confitures. 
Ditto, russe, aux (raises. 
Croquettes de riz. 


Ditto aux confitures. 
Charlotte de pomme. 


Meringue, aux confitures. 
Ditto, glacee. 


Wines ( Vlns ). 


Red Wines. Burgundy. — Beaune. — Pomard. — Nuits.—Yolnay.— 
Chambertin.—Romanee.— Hermitage.— C6te-R6tie.— Claret. — Medoc. 
— Pichon.— Chateaux-Margaux.— Moulton. — Laffitle.— White Wines. 
Chablis.— Meursalt. — Saint-Peray. — Hermitage.—Sauterne. —Cham¬ 
pagne,— Sweet Wines. Lunel.—Frontignan. 


Liqueurs. 


Eau-de-vie; Kirschwasser; Anisette; Curasao; Marasquin; Absin¬ 
the; Cr£me de Moka; Cr6me de Noyaux; Cr£me de Cafe; Huile de 
Yanille; Huile de Rose; Liqueurs des lies. 

The facilities of introduction and of social intercourse which 
Paris affords to distinguished strangers far exceed those of any 
other capital. A presentation at court must of course he sought 
hrough the usual medium, that of the ambassador of the 
country to which the applicant may belong. This ceremony 
once over, invitations to the splendid hospitalities of the Tui- 
leries, to the dinners, the concerts, and the halls given by their 
majesties, are of easy attainment to foreigners of distinction. 
In addition to these brilliant reunions, on certain public occa¬ 
sions the “receptions” are of a much more comprehensive 
description, comprising every presentable rank and class within 
certain but very extended limits. Of these general presentation 
days the fdte du rot (May 1) and the first of the new year are 
among the principal, when the ministers, foreign ambassadors, 
and gentlemen in any manner connected with public affairs, 
attend with their ladies to pay their respects to their Majesties 
and the royal family. This ceremony, which is somewhat pe¬ 
culiar, takes place as follows. The ladies are placed in two 
lines, between which the whole of the royal family pass, pre¬ 
ceded by his Majesty. Two aides-de-camp, who go before the 
Sovereign, announce the titles or the names of the ladies, one 
after the other, as he advances. The King usually makes a few 
observations to each lady as he passes, and the royal family 
follow his example to any they may happen to know. The 


PREFACE. j x 

King and the royal family afterwards retire to an adjoining 
apartment, where they place themselves near the entrance. 
The Queen, Madame Adelaide, and the younger branches of 
the family, stand in a row, while the gentlemen pass before 
them. The aides-de-camp in the same manner as before an¬ 
nounce the names and lilies of all the gentlemen as they enter, 
who move before the King, Queen, and royal family, bowing 
to them severally as they pass, and make their exit by an op¬ 
posite door. The King usually addresses a few words to each 
in passing, as, “ Je suis charme, Messieurs, de vous voir.” A 
few courteous expressions are also used by her Majesty. The 
whole company are of course in uniform or court dress, and, 
with the various orders, the entire ceremony is splendid in 
the extreme. Descending, however, from royalty, the stran¬ 
ger in Paris will find that the greater part of the resident fa¬ 
milies in fashionable, official, or professional life, and not a 
few of the foreign, domiciled for a longer or shorter time, 
receive, from the commencement to the close of the winter 
season, once a-week or fortnight, in the evening, between the 
hours of nine and twelve. Most of the eminent savants and 
men of letters, chief librarians, and directors of the great lite¬ 
rary and scientific institutions, of the resident peers and de¬ 
puties, and especially the coryphaeus of each political sect, 
have likewise their soirees. And, in addition, are the num¬ 
berless private balls and occasional parties, to which personal 
respectability and suitable acquaintance ensure easy access. 
What we may call more public and still more advantageous 
are the evening receptions of the Ministers of Slate, the pre¬ 
sidents of the two Chambers, the ecclesiastical dignitaries, 
the chiefs of the national guard, the prefect of the Seine, the 
higher municipal functionaries, and even the directors and 
principal artistes of the royal theatres. In the course of a 
month the prominent persons of every department of poli¬ 
tical, literary, and fashionable life may be seen at the various 
soirdes , so as to content the curiosity of a well-bred stranger of 
liberal tastes and active social habits. Your host does not spon¬ 
taneously serve as introducer; considering the multitude of 
foreigners circulating, the task would indeed be impossible; 
but a request suffices for the formation of a cursory acquaint¬ 
ance, which is often improved into an agreeable intimacy. At 
these assemblages long visits and long “talks” are not bon ton; 
it is the custom to attend several the same evening. The name 
of the guest is usually announced at the door of the salon; after 





X 


PREFACE. 

a salutation of the hosts, movement within and exit are entirely 
free. Whoever wishes to he presented at the soiree of a minis¬ 
ter does best to seek the auspices of the diplomatic representa¬ 
tive of his country, who ushers the elite only, and with a dis¬ 
crimination universally expected. Few strangers are welcome 
whose names and pretensions have not been duly submitted, 
or whose ushers do not enjoy high consideration with his 
excellency. There may be toleration, but cordiality or com¬ 
placency is wanting in every other case. The most brilliant 
salons are those of the President of the Council, the Minister of 
Foreign Affairs, and the Minister of Marine. The foreign lega¬ 
tions and agents, and the superior officers, in full uniform, along 
with strangers of rank, and natives and envoys from all regions 
in costume, who frequenlthem, produce an exceedingly dazzling 
and diversified effect. Passing from the halls of Marshal Soult, 
where all descriptions of dignitaries and foreign personages 
congregate, to those of the Minister of Public Instruction, filled 
with civic and university functionaries in black suits, you are 
struck with the contrast in the scene—regimentals, arms, stars, 
cordons, turbans, bournoufs, in the one, and in the other a 
sable uniformity, relieved only by a red ribbon in the button¬ 
hole. A refined and amiable courtesy marks the department 
of nearly all the entertainers. The number of ladies that figure 
at the Ministerial soirees is comparatively small; yet most of 
the female members of the families of those eminent men 
appear also during an hour, and of course in the richest attire. 
Little converse, however, takes place ; a passing bow, or a few 
sentences from a half-bent familiar acquaintance, is the most 
that politeness or gallantry can consistently bestow on these 
occasions. The public balls of a benevolent nature, such as 
those for the British Charitable Fund, the Ancient Bourbon 
Civil List, the exiled Poles, afford opportunity, at the cost of 
twenty francs the ticket, of seeing the liaut ton of foreign so¬ 
ciety and of the old French noblesse from the several quarters 
of the capital, and the towns and chateaux in the environs. 


The Medical School of Paris is now so frequently resorted to 
by foreigners, more especially by the English and Americans 
that some few remarks on its constitution may not be useless’ 
’ A student who purposes graduating in Paris must fulfil the 
following conditions: he must have attained the age of 18 - he 
must pursue his studies during four years; and at the commence- 





PREFACE. x j 

ment of every third month he must inscribe his name at the 
bureau of the Faculty. On first presenting himself, he must pro¬ 
duce the registration of his birth, with the authorisation, if he 
be a minor, of his parents or guardians for the step he is taking. 
It is moreover necessary, as a preliminary to his medical stu¬ 
dies, that he have already obtained the diploma of a bachelor 
oflletlers; and, further, that before he can be admitted to lake 
his first examination, he shall have the diploma of a bachelor of 
science. Those who have graduated elsewhere, and who wish 
for the diploma of the French school, must be furnished with a 
degree in letters or science, and must submit to the examina¬ 
tions prescribed by the Faculty. The number of inscriptions 
depends upon the time the candidate has already spent in me¬ 
dical study. If six years have been so employed, no inscription 
is necessary; if a shorter lime, at least two thirds of the inscrip¬ 
tions will be required. The school is open to persons of every 
nation and creed. 

The examinations, five in number, are conducted in French. 
The student having taken out five inscriptions passes his first 
examination at the beginning of the second year in natural phi¬ 
losophy, natural history, and botany. On the completion of the 
third year of study, and after having taken out twelve inscrip¬ 
tions, he is entitled to his second examination in anatomy and 
physiology. At the end of the fourth year, the sixteen inscrip¬ 
tions being completed, the other examinations may be passed, 
in external and internal pathology, hygiene, medical jurispru¬ 
dence, pharmacy, materia medica, and therapeutics. The fifth 
and last examination is, with the exception of midwifery, 
entirely practical; it is conducted at the bed-side. Two cases 
are selected by the examiners, at either the Hdtel Dieu or La 
Charile, on which the student is expected to give the diagnosis, 
prognosis, and treatment. The candidate for medical honours 
is moreover required to write a thesis, the subject of which 
may be selected by himself. 

The expense of a medical education in Paris is trifling com¬ 
pared with that of the British schools. All the lectures at the 
ficole de Medecine, and most of those at the ficole Pratique, 
are public and gratuitous; nor is any payment made for hos¬ 
pital attendance. Gratuitous lectures are also given at the Jar- 
din des Plantes, at the College de France, and at the Sorbonne, 
on general science, and on subjects having a relation to medi¬ 
cine. The principal payments required during the course of 
study are for each inscription 50 fr.j these are 16 in number; a 


pKEFACE. 


xij 

fee of 30 fr. lo llie professors for eaeii examination; and the 
expense attending the thesis, which must be printed : this will 
of course depend upon its length and upon the number of co¬ 
pies. The usual charge is from 200 fr. to 260 Ir. A fee of 60 
francs is also paid for the examination of the thesis, and 100 fr. 
for the diploma and stamp. The ficole Pratique is a kind of 
supplementary school; it is here and at the establishment t)f 
Clamart that the dissections are pursued. For these, including 
a proper supply of subjects during the whole season, a payment 
of 30 fr. is expected. Many of the courses at the Ecole Pratique 
are public; for others a small fee, from 10 fr. lo 30 fr., is requir¬ 
ed. Annual prizes are given at this school to the amount of 
1680 fr. 

The subjects treated of by the professors at this school are 
the following : anatomy and surgery, both practical and de¬ 
scriptive, by Chassaignac, Maisonneuve, Malgaigne, Denonvil- 
liers; pathological anatomy, by Barth and Pigne; anatomy and 
physiology of the nervous system, by Longet; internal patho¬ 
logy, by Monneret, Tessier, and Gendrin; midwifery, by De 
Paul, Cazeau, Chailly St. Honore; pharmacy, by Bouchardat; 
bandaging and minor operations in surgery, by Ribail and Thi- 
vet; diseases of the eye, by Sichel and Desmarres; deformities, 
by Bouvier; microscope, by Donne and Gruby. These courses 
are all excellent. Between the lectures on anatomy and sur¬ 
gery the student has scarcely a choice. The lessons of Barth on 
morbid anatomy are well worth the student’s attention. Longel’s 
course on the nervous system is highly instructive, and the very 
best exposition of a difficult subject we have ever met with. 
Demonstrations are given in another course of the functions of 
the particular nerves. The lectures on midwifery are of about 
equal talent. Bibail’s course on bandaging is very useful to 
students who may wish to acquire the ready use of the hand. 
The clinical lessons of Sichel and Desmarres are excellent. 
Their dispensaries are resorted to by poor patients from all 
quarters of Paris. An acquaintance with the microscope is now 
almost as essential to a medical man as a knowledge of the 
laws of chemistry; every pupil will therefore do well to attend 
either the course of Donne or Gruby. The former treats more 
especially of the animal fluids and secretions; the latter treats 
of both the fluids and solids in the healthy and morbid slate. 
Gruby’s injected preparations are perhaps unequalled. At the 
hospitals private lessons are given on percussion, auscultation, 
and the diagnosis of disease, by the internes (clinical clerks)- 


PREFACE. Xiij 

these are very instructive, and are generally conducted by 
gentlemen of considerable talent. 

The medical session commences early in November, and 
finishes with the month of July. Many of the private courses 
continue until September : dissections are not allowed to be 
pursued in the summer, but operative surgery is permitted. 
Every hospital is open to the student, with the exception of the 
Hotel Dieu and Hopital des Cliniques, and these may be fol¬ 
lowed on obtaining a ticket from the bureau of the hospital or 
from that of the Faculty. The visit is made by the medical of¬ 
ficers at an early hour, usually at seven. Such an arrangement 
may suit the convenience of the physician, as it gives him the 
whole day for the exercise of the more profitable part of his 
profession, but to the poor hospital patients it must be any 
thing but desirable. Many of these necessarily pass feverish and 
sleepless nights, and it is only towards morning that they begin 
to forget their sufferings in sleep. In another point of view the 
selection of this early hour for visiting the sick is objectionable; 
the more formidable symptoms of many diseases, which be¬ 
come increased as the evening approaches, experience a remis¬ 
sion towards morning. 

A peculiar feature of the medical school of Paris is the “con- 
cours.” All medical appointments, from the lowest to the 
highest, are determined by this test. A series of subjects is se¬ 
lected by the Faculty, on which the competitors are obliged to 
treat both in writing and orally : these are determined by lot; 
each lesson is delivered in public and before the Faculty, and 
it must occupy an hour. Each candidate must moreover write 
a thesis on a subject selected by the judges, and defend it 
publicly against his opponents. The conconrs is a severe trial, and 
though it affords a fair opportunity for the display of talent, it is 
nevertheless open to some objections. The more ready may 
sometimes appear to greater advantage than his less fluent 
although more highly gifled rival, and thus impose upon the 
judges ; examples indeed are not wanting of such a result. It 
is moreover to be feared that the professors may sometimes 
allow private feelings to influence their better judgment. Set¬ 
ting aside, however, these objections, the concours possesses one 
advantage—it is a test, and, if not altogether perfect, it is infi¬ 
nitely superior to the system pursued in England, where “prefer¬ 
ment too often goes by favour,” and the ignorance of the aspi¬ 
rant is only discovered when it is too late to apply the remedy. 

From this slight sketch of the medical school of Paris, it is 


xiv PREFACE. 

evident that it possesses some advantages over that of Great 
Britain. The most striking is the small cost at which a first-rate 
education may he obtained, and the circumstance that a man, 
however lowly his origin, and however humble his worldly 
advantages in oilier respects, may yet rise to the summit of his 
profession by industry and talent alone, a fact which is strik¬ 
ingly illustrated by the career of most of the leading members 
of the profession in this country. The facilities for the study 
of practical anatomy and operative surgery are certainly un¬ 
equalled in any other school, and it is perhaps chiefly on this 
account that Paris is so much resorted to by students of other 
countries. The diagnosis of disease is in general pursued with 
more care and method here than elsewhere, and the manner 
of interrogating patients and drawing up their cases is worthy 
imitation. In the application of remedies, on the other hand, 
the French physicians have yet much to learn ; the expectant 
system seems to he gradually giving way to one equally objec¬ 
tionable, and medicines are now occasionally prescribed in 
doses which no British practitioner would think of employing. 

Great advantages are offered in the study of special patho¬ 
logy, hospitals being set apart for patients afflicted with diseases 
of the skin, those peculiar to infancy and old age, scrofula, 
calculus, syphilis, and mental derangement; and perhaps in no 
other country will the student have equal opportunities of 
observing these affections. A season may indeed be well spent 
in Paris at the Hospital St. Louis, one of the largest in Europe, 
and chiefly dedicated to cutaneous and scrofulous diseases. 
We refer the reader for further details to pages 76, 77, 81, 82, 
89, 90, 96, etc. 

Physicians with a foreign diploma who may wish to practice 
in Paris must either submit to the prescribed examinations, 
and become members of the French faculty, or they must 
address a Petition to the Minister of Public Instruction. The 
privilege is now rarely granted except under very peculiar cir¬ 
cumstances. 


The New Patent Law in France, passed in the last session 
of the Chambers, differs materially in many essential points 
from the preceding legislation on this subject. The cost of a 
patent is nominally the same, but the mode of payment has 
been changed so as to afford great facilities to the patentee. 
Formerly patents were taken out either for five, ten, or fifteen 



PREFACE. xv 

years, the respective charges being 500 fr. 850 fr. and 1,500 fr. 

the new law all that is required is the payment in advance 
ot loo fr. per annum during the term of the patent, and the 
patentee can at any time discontinue the payment, if lie finds 
his patent unproductive, which in that case becomes public 
property. I lie non payment of the annual sum of 100 fr. 
within the period allowed immediately annuls the patent right. 
Hie Minister ol Commerce has not the power under the laws of 
receiving this payment even a single hour after it has become 
due. An official notice of this obligation on the part of paten¬ 
tees has been repeatedly given by the Minister in answer to 
applications which have been made to him for permission to 
pay the annuity when over due. Patents of importation are 
no longer granted, but a patentee in a foreign country, and he 
only * can take out a patent tor the same object in France, 
either in person or by an agent in Paris duly authorized by 
him. Although patents may still be taken for live, ten, or 
fifteen years as before, yet most persons take them for the 
extreme term, as there is no obligation to continue the pay¬ 
ments if they do not find it worth while to do so, and iUwould 
therefore be absurd to apply for a patent for a shorter period 
than the fifteen years. When, however, a patent for the same 
invention exists in a foreign country, it will be good in France 
no longer than for the term that remains on the original. 
Mr. Merle, Patent Agent, rue Vivienne, No. 18, has published 
some notes on the New Patent Law, from which we extract 
the following, as containing useful information to Englishmen. 

“ Foreigners have the same patent rights as natives; but, by the new 
law, only the inventor can take out a patent. Hitherto any person could 
take out a patent in France for an invention already patented abroad, 
and it has frequently happened that the original patentee has been fore¬ 
stalled by some person who had obtained a knowledge of the patent, 
and taken out a patent in France. If the invention be patented abroad^ 
the patentee must take out his patent in France before the specifica¬ 
tion has become public. 

“ Jt is very important to consider what is the publicity in a foreign 
country which invalidates a patent in France— 1 st, any printed and 
published description of the patent; 2ndlyf any public exhibition of it 
which would enable a person witnessing it to carry it into execution; 
3rdly, the sale of the article in a foreign country previously to the ap¬ 
plication tor a patent in France; either of these grounds of publicity 
would vitiate the French patent. Such are the principles upon which 
hitherto the law has been interpreted; but from the expose of the new 
patent law as given in the Chambers, it would appear that the mere de- 


PREFACE. 


xvj 

posit of the specification in the patent office in England would be con¬ 
sidered a publication, in as much as it can be there read and a copy of 
it be obtained. In order lo guard against the consequences of such an 
interpretation of the tribunal in the event of any action for declaring 
the nullity of a patent, persons who have patents in England and intend 
to lake them out also in France will do well to apply for them here be¬ 
fore they have enrolled their specifications in England. The rights of 
the patentee in France are secured from the hour when he deposits his 
demand at the Hdtel de Ville in Paris, although the official certificate 
of that demand may not be delivered to him for weeks and even months 
afterwards. The patent also becomes vitiated if not carried into exe¬ 
cution in France within a period of two years from its dale, or if it be 
not worked for any two consecutive years during the existence of the 
patent, unless good grounds can be shown in either case for this inac¬ 
tion. It frequently happens that a patentee is unable lo work his patent 
within the first two years, but in such case he must not rely loo much 
on the grounds which he may assign for inaction, although the tribunal, 
when any attempt is made to set aside the patent on the ground of non¬ 
execution within the two years, usually puls a liberal construction 
upon the motives assigned for delay. Illness, absence, or want of pe¬ 
cuniary means, have been on some occasions pleaded successfully.” 

• __ 


Any correction which may suggest itself to the reader, in 
consequence of the changes which are necessarily of continual 
occurrence in a capital like Paris, will he glacly received by 
the Publishers. 




NEW PARIS GUIDE. 


MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION. 

PASSPORTS. — Before leaving England it is necessary to be 
furnished with a passport, which is to be procured from the 
French Ambassador, at the office, G, Poland-street. The name 
of the applicant, his address, and the road he intends to lake, 
must be stated, and on the following day the passport is deli¬ 
vered, gratis. The hours of application are from l to 3. Pass¬ 
ports may also be procured from the French consuls at Dover, 
Folkestone, Brighton, Portsmouth, Southampton, and other 
British seaports; but at these places there is a charge of 5s, 
On arriving at a French port, the passports are demanded by 
the police-officers, and immediately sent on to Paris; a tem¬ 
porary passport, for which 2fr. are charged, is then given to 
the tourist, and will serve him till he reaches the capital. A 
few days alter reaching Paris, the temporary passport must be 
presented at the Prefecture of Police, Quai des Orfevres, where 
the original one will be returned, -or else a permis desejour. If 
only a short stay is to be made in Paris, the passport should be 
(to save time) countersigned immediately, and the next place 
intended to be visited specified in it; if a long one, the original 
passport can be left at the Prefecture till within a few days of 
departure. In his excursions through Paris, the tourist will do 
well to carry his passport about him, as it will obtain him ad¬ 
mission to several museums, and may be very useful as a mea¬ 
sure of precaution on many occasions. Previous to leaving 
Paris the passport must be sent to the British ambassador, 39, 
rue du Faubourg St. Ilonore, to be countersigned, from 11 to 2. 
It is then to be taken to the Prefecture of Police, open from 
9 ‘/a to 4 on week days, and from 12 to 3 on holidays, where it 
is again countersigned; and this is all that will be requisite for 
a traveller returning to England. Those persons, however, 
who cross the frontier in other directions—to Italy especially 
—should be careful to have their passports strictly en regie, 
and properly countersigned. For the residence of the different 
Ambassadors, see the Directory at the end of the Guide. 

ROUTES TO PARIS. —The following is a list of the various 

1 


l 


2 INTRODUCTION. 

routes from the coast to Paris, taken from the Livre de Poste, 
with thedislances indicated in myriametres and kilometres : (1) 

I. Calais ou Boulogne to Paris, by Abbeville and Amiens. 

Haut-Buisson, lm. 3k.—Marquise, 8k. — Boulogne-sur-Mer, 

lm. 3k.— Samer, lm. 5k. —Gormont, 8k. —*Montreuil, lm. 3k. 
— Nampont, lm. 4k. — Bernay, 9k. — Nouvion, 7k. — Abbe¬ 
ville, lm. 3k. (Fine Church.) 

From Abbeville to Amiens (Fine Cathedral) and to Paris by 
the railroad, in from 5 to 6 hours. 

II. Havre to Paris, through Rouen, by the railroad, in fromG 
to 7 hours. 

III. Dieppe to Paris, through Rouen. 

Ormonville, lm. 5k. — Totes, lm. 3k. — Les Cambres, lm. 
2k. — Rouen, lm. 7k. (Cathedral, Church of St. Ouen, Statue 
of Joan of Arc, Museum, Bridge, Quays.) 

From Rouen to Paris by the railroad, in from 3 ‘A to 4 hours. 

IV. Ostend to Paris, by Lille. 

Furnes, 4 '/ 2 Posts.— Rousbrugge, 2 % Posts— Ypres, 2 3 A Posts 
(Hotel de Ville.) — Lille, 4 Posts. (Citadel, Manufactures.) 

From Lille to Paris by the railroad, in about 9 hours. 

CONVEYANCES.—-Correct information respecting conveyances 
to France may be obtained at most of the coach and packet 
offices in London. The Brighton, Southampton, Dover, and 
Folkestone trains leave several limes a-day to meet the 
different packets. 

The two most agreeable passages from England to France are 
from Southampton to Havre, or from Brighton to Dieppe or 
Havre. From Havre the traveller has the choice of the steam 
packet to Rouen, and from thence the railroad to Paris, or the 
railroad direct to Paris, by which the journey is performed 
in G to 7 hours. The diligence offices having now entered into 
an arrangement with the railroad company, travellers from 
Dieppe make part of the trip by the railroad, the route in 
great part traversing a portion of the country rich in beau¬ 
tiful scenery. 

Steam and Sailing Packets.— Splendid steam-packets leave the 
Tower-stairs for Calais, Boulogne, and Havre, almost everyday, 
particularly during the summer months. Several packets start 
daily from Dover and Folkestone; others three or four times 
a-week from Brighton for Dieppe or Havre, and others which 
run almost daily from Southampton to Havre. From Southamp¬ 
ton there are boats to the Channel islands, St. Malo, etc. 

Public Coaches. — Diligences are the usual conveyances in 

(l) In l myriam. are 10 kilotri., each of the taller being lioo yards. 
The myriametre, therefore, which has superseded the “poste” on 
French roads, is about 6 l / 4 English miles. 






POSTING. 3 

France; they carry generally 15 lo 18 passengers, and contain 
four kinds of places—the coupe, which holds three; intcrieur, 
six; rotonde, six; and banquette, three. Places in the coupe 
are the dearest, but are very comfortable; those on the ban¬ 
quette , which is situated on the top of the vehicle, are only lo 
he recommended during summer to persons desirous of seeing 
the country. Each passenger is allowed to carry from 401b. to 
50lh. of luggage; all above that quantity is charged by weight. 
It is customary on taking a place lo pay one-half of the fare, 
and a receipt is given, on which is indicated the day and hour 
of departure. All the places are numbered, and the precise 
seat the traveller is to occupy is mentioned on his receipt. The 
conducteur (corresponding to an English guard) takes care that 
every passenger shall occupy his assigned place by calling each 
in his turn to enter the vehicle. The diligences start at diffe¬ 
rent hours of the day. 

Malles-Postes, corresponding to the English mail, offer a 
cheap and excellent, though fatiguing, way of travelling for 
persons who wish lo economise time, the service under the 
Post-office control being admirably performed. Each malle 
carries two or three passengers, who are allowed 25 kilogrammes 
(50lb.) of luggage ; the trunk containing it must not he more 
than 70 centimetres long, 40 broad, and 35 in height (30 inches 
long, 14 broad, and 13 in height). Places by the mail are 
much in request; they should consequently be applied for se¬ 
veral days before-hand. The fares are charged at the rate of 
2 fr. the myriametre (about G y< miles). The malles leave Paris 
every evening at six o’clock, and arrive in Paris between 5 and 
6 in the morning. Places are hooked at the General Post-office, 
rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau, Paris, and at the same office in the 
different towns from which they start, on producing passport 
and paying the whole fare in advance. * 

A complete list of conveyances from Paris to the principal 
places in France would be too long for insertion in this work. 
Diligences to all parts of France and foreign countries may be 
found, and all necessary information obtained, at the office of 
the Messageries Royales, 22, rue Notre-Dame des Victoires, 
near the Exchange; at the Messageries Generates, 18, rue de 
Grenelle St. Honore, and 130, rue St. Honore; at the Messa¬ 
geries, 52, rue Croix des Petits Champs, and at the various coach- 
offices in the rue du Bouloy, rue du faubourg St. Denis, etc. 

All parcels sent to the continent must have annexed lo them 
a written declaration of their contents and value, with the 
name and address of the person sending them. 

Posting.— As a carriage cannot, in France, be changed at 
every stage, the traveller must hire a conveyance for the whole 


* INTRODUCTION. 

journey. T!ie charge varies; but one from the coast to Paris 
may generally he had for about 100 fr. They are called caleches 
or berlines, on four wheels, which will carry three, four, or six 
persons. Carriages for long journeys are much more reasonable, 
and should he hired at so much per day, generally from 7 to 
10 fr. In hiring a carriage, it is important to have written on 
the receipt that all repairs required on the road shall he paid 
for by the person who lets it, and to get receipts for all such 
disbursements. On arriving at Paris or elsewhere, a hired car¬ 
riage should be immediately sent according to the direction 


received on engaging it, in order to avoid disputes 


Posting 


in France being under the direction of the govern¬ 


ment, there is only one place at each stage or in each town for 


changing horses 


This place is seldom an inn; but the posti¬ 
lion will conduct the traveller to any place he is ordered. The 
business of posting is well managed. The postilions do not 
drive so fast as in England; but there is no danger whatever of 
their being drunk, or racing against each other. There are no 
turnpike-gates in France; and the charge of posting and paying 
the postilion is fixed. They seldom put more than three horses 
to a carriage, and those generally abreast, with one postilion 
except when the carriage has a pole; it then has four horses’ 
but the number of the postilions, whether one or two, is at the 
option of the traveller. It is therefore advisable for travellers 
who take their own carriage to have shafts instead of a pole as 
this makes a considerable difference in the expense of postiri"-. 
Where the roads are bad, or the distances great, an extra horse 
is obligatory, except for certain carriages, to which the extra 
horse could not be yoked without danger; the traveller mav 
then agree with the post-master to have stronger horses instead 
of an extra one, the charge for which he partly pays. 

The post-houses being under the control of the government 
a stranger can seldom be imposed upon, as a book is published 
every year by authority, called the Lime de Poste, which has 
an alphabetical list of all the post-roads in France, with their 
principal lateral communications, and the number of posts on 
each road. Affixed to it is a map ofFrance, on which the dis¬ 
tances are all carefully marked. The Lime de Poste also con¬ 
tains the rules and regulations for posting, some of which we 
shall here insert, together with tables of the rate of posting 
This book, nevertheless, will be found of the greatest utility 
and will prevent imposition. It costs 4 fr. J 

Regulations relative to Posting.— Post-masters appointed bv 
0 °\ ei nment are alone permitted to furnish horses to traveller 
-the post-master must constantly reside at or near the post- 
house.-A postilion under 10 years of age cannot lie lured.- 














POSTING. 5 

Travellers are requested to enter every complaint they may 
have against the postilion or master, in a hook which is kept at 
each post-house, and is regularly examined by the inspectors. 
—The post-master is answerable for any accident that may 
occur from the carelessness of the postilion or restiveness of the 
horses.—Travellers are supplied in the exact order in which 
they, or their couriers, arrive; no exception being made, ex¬ 
cept in favour of mails or couriers with despatches.—No post¬ 
carriage may pass another on the road, unless some accident 
happens to that which goes before. The rale of posting, as 
fixed by the government, is 2 fr. per myriametre for each 
horse; and as many horses are paid for as there are persons 
in the carriage, except in those cases specified in the following 
table. On arriving at certain privileged places, formerly called 
“ postes royales,” and on departing from them, an extra charge 
of from i to 4 kilometres is demanded; while, on entering or 
leaving Paris, 8 kilometres must be paid. (See Livre de Poste 
for particulars.) Supplementary fixed charges are also made 
at certain towns, in consequence of the road being very hilly, 
or for other causes; and sometimes an extra horse called a 
cheval de renfort is put on, on account of the nature of the 
country. The remuneration of the postilions, as fixed by the 
legal tariff, is l fr. per myriametre; but 2 fr. are generally 
given, unless travellers have reason to be dissatisfied, and then 
they have it in their power to punish insolence or carelessness 
by giving the minimum price accorded them by law. The 
following table shows the number of horses required, and the 
charge per myriametre : 

I. Caleches or Cabriolets, with one seat and a pole. 


No. of 

No. of 

Charge per 

No. of 

Total 

Persons. 

Horses. 

Myriam. 

Postilions. 

Price. 

1, 2 

2 

4 francs 

1 

5 francs 

3 

3 

G francs 

1 

7 francs 


For each person exceeding tico, 1 fr. 50c. extra. 

II. Limonieres, i. e. four-wheeled vehicles with shafts. 

1, 2, 3 | 3 [6 francs. | 1 | 7 francs. 

For every person exceeding three , 1 fr. 50c. extra, 

III. Berlines, or carriages with two seats and pole. 

1, 2, 3, 4 | 4 | 8 francs. | 2 | 10 francs. 

For a fifth person, 1 fr. 50c. extra. 

6 { 6 | 12 francs. | 2 | 14 francs. 

For carriages requiring 3 horses travellers may only take 2, but 
1 franc 10 sous additional is paid. Travellers when using even 
four horses are not obliged to take two postilions. One franc 
ten sous extra must be paid (per myriametre) for each person 






6 introduction. 

exceeding 6; more than 6 horses cannot be put to a carriage. 
One child under 10 years old is not reckoned. Two children, 
of 10 years and under, reckon for one person, except when one 
or both are under 3 years. Ten sous is paid for each child 
of 10 and under, above 2, except under 3 years old. 

Vetturini. —A slow but pleasant inode of travelling, for some 
persons, is to make a bargain with a man called a vetturino, 
who keeps carriages and horses, and will convey travellers 
with the same carriage and horses to any place, and defray all 
their expenses on the road, for a fixed sum. I hey may usually 
be met with at the Hotel de Toulouse, 5, rue Git-le-Coeur. The 
inconvenience of this mode of conveyance is, that the traveller 
must set off every morning rather early, and stop, in the middle 
of the day, for at least two hours, to refresh the horses. The 
distance performed daily is from 35 to 45 miles. Such car¬ 
riages will carry a great deal of luggage, and are convenient 
for a family. The expense is generally 25 fr. a-day for the 
journey, and as much for the vetturino to return; but diffe¬ 
rent bargains may be made in different places. Return car¬ 
riages of this description may sometimes be met with on rea¬ 
sonable terms. The driver expects 1 or 2 fr. a-day. Another 
way of travelling in France is to ride on horseback, which is 
called a franc-etrier. The rider must then have a postilion to 
attend him; this mode however is used only for couriers, or 
persons with despatches. 

RAILROADS.—Eight of these, having stations in Paris, are 
at present in operation; viz. : I. The St. Germain railroad, the 
first constructed, opened in August 1837. A branch of it, con¬ 
structed on the atmospheric principle, between Nanlerre and 
St. Germain, has just been opened to circulation. — II. The 
Rouen railroad, 120, rue St. Lazare, opened in May 1843 as far 
as that city, and continued to Havre in 1847. — III. The Ver¬ 
sailles railroad on the northern bank of the Seine, 120, rue 
St. Lazare, opened in August 1839, communicating with 
St. Cloud and intermediate places. — IV. The Versailles rail¬ 
road on the southern bank of the Seine, barriere du Maine, 
extra mums, opened in September 1840, and running by Meu- 
don and Sevres, from whence it passes parallel to that of the 
northern bank, along the main line of road to Versailles.— 
V. The Orleans railroad, rue neuve de la Gare (facing the 
north-east corner of the Jardin des Plantes), opened in May 
1843, and continued to Tours in 1846; it communicates with 
the steamers on the Loire to Nantes, and thence to Bordeaux. 
— VI. The Corbeil railroad, a branch of the preceding one, 
opened in September 1840, and communicating with the 
coaches running to Fontainebleau.—'VII. The Sceaux railroad, 




STEAM-BOATS, HACKNEY-COACHES, ETC. 7 

barriere d’Enfer, extra muros, opened in June 184G. This line 
is remarkable for being the first application of the ingenious 
system of M. Arnoux, which effectually obviates the danger of 
the train running off the rails, and admits besides the intro¬ 
duction of the boldest curvatures, hitherto deemed impossible, 
in the design of the railroad. — V111. The Northern railroad, 
rue du Nord (near the barriere St. Denis), opened in June 1846, 
connecting Paris with the Belgian frontier by Amiens, Arras, 
Douai, and Valenciennes. Branch-lines are in progress to con¬ 
nect it with St. Quentin, Boulogne, Calais, and Lille. The Bou¬ 
logne branch is already in activity from Amiens to Abbeville. 
The prices and hours of departure, which vary according to 
the season, may be known on application for the printed 
tickets given gratis at the respective stations. Connecting omni¬ 
buses for these railways may be found at different points of 
Paris. The Paris and Lyons railway-station will be situated in 
the fauboiug St. Antoine, rue Traversiere, and that of the Paris 
and Strasburg line near the barriere St. Martin. Electric te¬ 
legraphs, communicating with the hotel of the Ministry of the 
Interior, are organised along all the lines. 

STEAM-BOATS.—Steamers leave the Quai de la Greve for 
Montereau, every day during summer, and vice versa, by Cor- 
beil, Melun, and Fontainebleau ; (1) office, CO, Quai de la Greve. 
They carry passengers, luggage, and goods; the charge is mo¬ 
derate. Steam-Boats also start from the Quai d’Orsay, near 
the Pont Boyal, in summer, for Boulogne, Meudon, Sevres, 
and St. Cloud, every hour from 8 in the morning. The charge 
is 1 fr. A whole steam-boat may be hired for the day for 150 fr. 
Pleasure trips on the Seine in these steam-boats, decked out 
and lighted with coloured lanterns, often take place on fine 
summer evenings. 

COCHES.—Passage-boats, called coches d’eau, are established 
on the upper part of the river, to convey travellers or goods to 
any village or town on the banks of the Seine, and into Bur¬ 
gundy. Their offices are at 1, rue Bretonvilliers. They set out' 
from the Port St. Bernard early in the morning. They travel 
very slowly, and never have good company on board. 

CARRIAGES, HACKNEY-COACHES, CABRIOLETS.— Voitures 
de remise (glass coaches) may be hired by the day or month, at 
from 20 to 30 fr. a-day, or from 400 to 500 fr. a-month. They 
will go a certain distance out of Paris, but must be back again 
before midnight, unless a particular agreement be made. Glass 
coaches may also be had at 2 fr. an hour, and with a small ad¬ 
ditional charge a lad is given to go behind the carriage. Their 

(0 The boats land passengers at Yalvins, and omnibuses take them 
to Fontainebleau. 


INTRODUCTION. 


8 INTRODUCTION. 

stations are in divers parts of Paris. (1) In the liackney-coaclies, 
called fiacres, a drive from any part of Paris to another without 
stopping is 30 sous, from six in the morning to midnight; but 
they may he taken by the hour, and then the first hour is 


45 sous, and each following hour 35 sous. It is customary to 


From midnight 


give the coachman a few sous above his fare, 
to six in the morning the drive is 2 fr., the hour 3 fr. For cou¬ 
pes, with two horses, carrying four persons, or fiacres with one 
horse, holding two and four persons, the charge is, for a drive 
25 sous; first hour 35 sous, each following hour 30 sous. Ca¬ 
briolets with two or four wheels generally go faster than the 
fiacres, but they are not always a good shelter against rain. 
The charge for a drive is 20 sous from six in the morning to 
midnight; the first hour 30, and each following hour 25 sous. 
From midnight to six in the morning, the drive for the small 
fiacres or cabriolets is 33 sous, and the hour 2 fr. 10 sous. 
Beyond the barriers, and within the continuous wall of the 
fortifications, these carriages can only be taken by the hour, 
the fares being— fiacres 2 fr. 50 c.; coupes and small fiacres 2 fr.; 
and cabriolets 1 fr. 75 c. For distances beyond the continuous 
wall the fares increase 50 c. the hour. There are also cabriolets 
de la regie or de remise, for which 30 sous are paid for the 
drive; but by the hour the charge is 40 sous. After midnight 
the fares are 50 sous a-drive, and G5 sous an hour. As a mea¬ 
sure of precaution, it is necessary to mention whether the 
parly engages them d la course or d Vheure; otherwise the 
drivers can demand the price of a “ course” for each stoppage. 
In the latter case, the vehicle is for the lime at the entire dispo¬ 
sal of the person hiring it. To avoid disputes, the traveller 
should show the driver the time by his watch, or by the clocks 


now set up, for the public convenience, in the inspectors’ 


boxes, at the different stands throughout the capital. After the 
first hour, charges are made for fractions of time, and not for 
full hours.—The driver is bound to give a printed card with his 
number, which it is well to preserve, in case of forgetting any¬ 
thing in the coach. (2) All vehicles are numbered both within 


(1) Public vehicles of every description are admirably regulated in 
Paris. The cabriolets de remise are numbered with small red figures, 
the voilures and cabriolets de glace on the contrary with larger yellow 
ones, so that they may be distinguished from the former at any time. 
Every morning the overseer of the stand inspects them, to ascertain 
whether they are in a lit state for service. The amount of fare is printed 
on parchment, and stuck up inside for the information of the public. 
Imposition on the part of the driver is severely punished. 

(2) Yearly rewards are given to such drivers as have shown the great¬ 
est fidelity in restoring to the owners articles of value left in their car- 








OMNIBUSES. 


9 

and without; and in case of any accident or insolence, imme¬ 
diate redress, and with little trouble, can always be had at the 
Bureau de la Police pour les voitures publiques, 31, rue Guene- 
gaud. It is unnecessary to make a personal application, as a 
complaint by letter is promptly attended to. No driver of any 
voiture de place is obliged to lake a fare out of Paris to any 
distance, unless he chooses. The price must he agreed on be¬ 
forehand. (1) An exception, however, is made to this rule in 
favour of the Hippodrome, the railroad stations outside the 
barriers, and the cemeteries, for which places fares are the 
same as within the walls of Paris. 

Besides those for the interior service of Paris, there are ve¬ 
hicles of a different construction for the environs. Those 
which go to St. Cloud, Versailles, and St. Germain, constantly 
start from the Place du Carrousel. There are others, popularly 
called coucous, which generally hold nine persons, the driver 
sitting on a kind of box outside; they have no fixed charge, hut 
it is generally moderate, except on festival occasions, when they 
increase it. Those for St. Denis, the valley of Montmorency, 
Enghien-les-Bains, etc., are to be found at the Plat d’fitaiu, 
rue St. Martin, and at the Faubourg St. Denis, No. 67. Those 
for Vincennes, and all the east, place de la Bastille. Those for 
Sceaux, and all the south, are at 9, rue d’Enfer. (2) 

OMNIBUSES.—There are numerous sets of omnibuses establish¬ 
ed in Paris, which go to all parts of the town, and at all hours 
between 8 in the morning and 11 at night. We give below a 
list of these vehicles, with their names, the lines which they 
take, and the bureaux nearest the centre where they may be 
waited for. Their price is fixed at 6 sous, for all distances; and 
all of them correspond with similar vehicles crossing their own 
lines, by means of which persons wishing to deviate from the 
direct line of communication may do so, without any additional 
charge, by asking for a ticket, called cachet de correspondance. 

riages. The amount restored in 1846 was 29,963 fr. in money and notes, 
besides other articles. 

(1) The number of public carriages authorised by the police is 2670, 
which are thus classed 733 cabriolets de place, 441 coupes, 9i3 fiacres, 
125 voitures supplementaires, 125 cabriolets de I’exterieur, and 333 om¬ 
nibuses—The taxes levied on these vehicles are—for a cabriolet 215 fr. ; 
coupe 130 fr.; coach 150 fr.; supplementary vehicle 50 fr.; cabriolet de 
I’exlerieur 11 5 fr.; omnibus 400 fr.—The amount levied by the city of 
Paris on these 2670 public carriages amounts to 432,532 fr. The expense 
of maintaining 85 offices for the superintendence of the various stands is 
112,200 fr. It has been ascertained that the number of carriages circu¬ 
lating in the streets of Paris have increased in the last 15 years from 
35,000 to 80,000. 

(2) Other starting-places may be found by referring to Environs 
of Paris. 


4 0 INTRODUCTION. 

OMNIBUSES. From (he Madeleine to Bercy, by the Boulevards and 
Quai de la Rapee.—From the Carrousel to Passy, by the Quais—From 
the Barriere du Roule to the Boulevard des Filles du Calvaire, by the rue 
St.Honore, Carrousel, Quartiers St. Denis, St. Martin, and the Marais.— 
From the Rouen railroad station to the Bastille, by the Madeleine, 
and the Quartiers St. Honore, St. Denis, and the Marais.—From the 
Odeon to the Barriere Blanche, by the faubourg St. Germain,Carrousel, 
and the faubourg Montmartre.—From the Boulevard de la Madeleine to 
the bridge of Neuilly, by the faubourg St. Honore and the barriere du 
Roule.—Bureaux - - Madeleine, Place du Carrousel, Bastille, and Odeon. 

DAMES-REUNIES, comprising the Dames Francoises et Blanches.— 
From Grenelle to St. Laurent, by the Champ de Mars, the Esplanade 
des Jnvalides, rue St. Dominique, Pont Royal, Palais Royal, rue Mont¬ 
martre, and Boulevard Poissonniere.—From the Place St. Sulpice to La 
Villetle, by the rue St. Andre des Arts, the Pont St- Michel, and the rue 
and faubourg St. Martin.—Bureaux.- rue St. Dominique, Palais Royal, 
and Porte St. Martin. 

TRICYCLES. From the Porte St. Denis to the Barriere du Maine 
(Versailles railroad, left bank), by the Palais Royal, rues du Bac and 
Sevres.—Bureaux.- Banque, Place du Carrousel. 

FAVORITES. From the Northern railway station to the Place 
St. Sulpice, by the Place des Victoires and Pont Neuf.—From the Bar¬ 
riere des Martyrs to the Gobelins, by the rue Montmartre, Pont Neuf, 
and Jardia des Plantes.—From the Barriere St. Denis to the Barriere 
d’Enfer, by the Palais de Justice.—From the Bains de Tivoli to the Bar¬ 
riere de Sevre, by the rue Neuve des Petils-Champs, Place des Victoires, 
Pont Neuf, and rue de Sevres.—Bureaux.- rue Croix des Petits-Champs, 
rue de la Barillerie, Place Dauphine, and Bourse. 

ORLEANAISES. From the Place de l’Oratoire to the Barriere de la 
Rapee, by the Quais.—From the Louvre to the Barriere de l’Etoile and 
Neuilly, by the rue de Rivoli and Champs Elysecs. 

DILIGENTES. From the rue St. Lazare, No. 72, to the Barriere de 
Charenton, by the Quartiers St. Ilonore and St. Antoine.—From the 
rue du 29 Juillet to Batignolles Monceaux, by the rues Duphot and de 
la Madeleine.—Bureaux : Bastille, rue de 1’Arbre-Sec. 

BEARNAISES. From the Invalides to the Place de la Bastille, by the 
faubourg St. Germain and He St. Louis.—Bureau: Palais Royal. 

CITAD1NES. From the Place Dauphine to Belleville, by the Place 
de Greve and rue du Temple.—From the Place des Petils-Peres to 
Belleville, by the Quartiers St. Martin and St. Denis.—Bureau ; Quai 
aux Fleurs. 

BATIGNOLAISES. From the Batignolles to the CloitreSt. Honore, by 
the rues de la Chaussee d’Anlin and St. Roch—Bureau.- Chauss6e d’Antin. 

HIRONDELLES. From the rue de Lourcine to the Place Cadet, by 
the rue Mouffelard, the He St. Louis, the Marais, and Boulevard St. De¬ 
nis.—From the Barriere de Rochechouart to that of St. Jacques, by the 
rue Montmartre, Bourse, rue St. Honore, Pontau Change, Qua’rtier St. 
Jacques, and Pantheon—Bureau .- Cloitre St. IIonor6. 

PARISIENNES. From the extremity of Vaugirard to the Quai de la 
Greve, by the Place St. Sulpice, the rue de Seine, and the Pont Louis 
Philippe.—From the Ecole Polytechnique to the Place Montholon, by 
the rue de Grenelle, Pont de la Concorde, and Chaussee d’Anlin.— 


POST-OFFICE. 4 4 

From ihe Boulevard du Temple to the Barriere du Mont Parnasse, by 
the Porte St. Denis, Place des Vicloires, Pont Neuf, and Croix Rouge.— 
Bureaux : rues de Grenelle, Royale St. Honore, de l’Arbre Sec, and the 
rue Guenegaud. 

GAZELLES. From the rue des Pyramides, Place du Carrousel, Pont 
Neuf, (^uai de la Tournelle, Chemin de fer d’Orleans. 

COJNSTAMTIJNES. From the Barriere de Longchamp, to La Villelte, 
by the Avenue de iNeuiiiy, Chaussee d’Anlin, faubourg Montmartre, and 
rue Paradis, faubourg St. Denis.—Bureau; Embarcadere, rue St.Lazare. 

Lines of omnibuses, called Excellentes , are established for re¬ 
gular communication along the exterior boulevards, from the 
Barriere de Belleville to those of Bercy and l’Etoile. 

POST-OFFICE. — The administration of post-letters is con¬ 
ducted at the General Post-office in the rue Jean-Jacques Rous¬ 
seau; also at 19 auxiliary bureaux, called bureaux d'arrondis¬ 
sement; situated as follows: — 4, place de la Bourse; 24, rue 
de Seze; 59, rue de Ponthieu; 33, ruede Londres; 5, place La¬ 
fayette; 5, rue Bourdaloue; 23, rue del’Echiquier; 7, rue Grange 
aux Belles; 29, boulevard Beaumarchais; 196, rue du Faubourg 
St. Antoine; 5, rue du Grand Chantier; at the Salpfitriere, bou¬ 
levard de FHopital; 35, rue des Fosses St. Victor; at the Hotel 
de Ville; place de Greve; 12, rue Folie-Mericourt; 61, rue 
St. Andre des Arts; 2, rue de Beaune; 1, petite rue duBac;aud 12, 
rue St. Honore; likewise at 268 smaller offices dependent on 
the preceding, called Boites aux lettres; and at 3 privileged 
bureaux; the bureau de la Maison du Roi, 10 bis, rue de Ri- 
voli; the bureau at the Chambre des Pairs; and the bureau at 
the Chambre des Deputes. The Petite Posle was established 
in 1760. The charge for a letter within Paris, not exceeding 
the weight allowed, is three sous. The Boites aux lettres of the 
letters for Paris are cleared 7 times a-day; viz. — 7 ‘A and 10 
in the morning, at noon, and at 2, 3 ‘A, 4 'A, and 8 in the 
evening. The Bureaux d’arrondissement at 8 and 10 ‘A before 
noon, and at 12 ‘A, 2 ‘A, 4, 5, and 8 ‘/ 2 after. The box at the 
General Post-office at 5 ‘A, 8 ‘/ 2 , 9, and 11, in the morning, 
and at 1,3, 5, 5 ‘A, and 9 in the evening. The distributions of 
letters take place at 7, 9 'A, 12, 2, 4, and 6 o'clock. On Sun¬ 
days and holidays, the 6th and 7th clearances of the boxes do 
not take place, and the same is the case with the 6th distribu¬ 
tion, but the last clearance is fixed for the Boite aux lettres 
at 5 'A in the evening, for the bureaux d’arrondissement at 6, 
and the General Post-office at 6 'A in the evening. 

Letters for foreign countries, and for the departments, are 
in time at the boites till 3 ‘A o’clock, at the bureaux d’arron- 
dissement till 4, and at the Exchange and General Post-office 
till 5 o’clock, except on Sundays and holidays; the General 


INTRODUCTION. 


42 

Post-office then close at 3 o'clock, letters being received there 
till that hour, and till half-past 2 at the Exchange and at all 
the other quarters of Paris. 

The Government has lately contracted with the different 
railway companies for carrying the mail-bags. By these con¬ 
tracts two (and to some places more) general posts a-day, both 
for departure and delivery, have been established, not only 
for the banlieue but for many places within 300 kilometres 
( 200 miles) and more from Paris. To save time, the carriages 
destined for the service of the post are contrived so as to accom¬ 
modate clerks and sorters, who do their work while travelling. 

Letters cannot be franked at the boites, except for Paris and 
the department of the Seine. They must be franked as far as 
the French frontier for Spain and Portugal, United Stales 
( through France), Turkey in Asia, and Egypt. Smyrna and 
Alexandria are exceptions. Letters must be franked the whole 
way for the French, Spanish, and Portuguese colonies, the 
United States (through England), and South America. 

Letters for England arrive in London the next day but one. (1) 
Letters from England reach Paris in the same time, and are 
received every day except Tuesday, a blank caused by the Lon¬ 
don post-office being closed on Sunday. By the treaty lately 
concluded between the two governments for the reduction of 
postage, 1 fr., or lOd., is fixed as the postage of a single sheet, 
weighing 7 '/•_> grammes, between London and Paris. (2) From 
7 ‘/j to 10 grammes 30 sous; 10 to 15 grammes 2 fr.; 15 to 20 
grammes 50 sous; and for every additional 5 grammes 10 sous. 
Letters may or may not be franked throughout. Half the post¬ 
age may be paid, leaving the other half to be discharged by 
the correspondent. The inhabitants of the two countries may 
send from one country to the other letters termed registered or 
recommended letters (money letters), the postage on which 
is, at least, double, and must always be paid in advance. This 
may also be done for France and some parts of the Continent. 
Packets with open ends, containing patterns of merchandise, 
are admitted to this privilege, at reduced rates of postage. 

Letters can be transmitted between Brighton and Dieppe, 
Southampton and Havre, in addition to Dover and Calais. 

Letters for France, or for foreign countries, can be paid for 
at any of the head offices. It is not permitted to enclose coin; 
but at the general post-office and bureaux d’arrondissement 

(1) Letters for London put into the Post-office in Paris on Saturday 
are delivered (he same day as those put in on Friday, as there is no 
delivery in London on Sunday. 

( 2 ) The thick letter-paper used in England is consequently liable to 
an additional postage in France. 














APARTMENTS, HOTELS, ETC. I\ 3 

money for any part of France is received, on paying two per 
cent., and seven sous for a stamped draft, when the sum ex¬ 
ceeds 10 fr. 

A foreigner may have his letters directed to him poste res- 
tante, Paris, or at any oilier town where he intends to go. The 
poste restante is open daily from 8 a.m. to 7 p.m., except on 
Sundays and festivals, when it closes at 5 p. m. On the party 
applying at the post-office, and showing his passport or card, 
the letter will he delivered; hut the best way is lo have them 
addressed to the care of a friend, or some established house. 
There is at the post-office the Bureau des Rebuts, where let¬ 
ters mis-addressed or unclaimed remain a certain lime, never 
more than 4 months; after which they are opened, and, accord¬ 
ing to their contents, destroyed or returned to the address of 
the writer. Open daily from 9 a. m. to 4 p. m., but closed at 2 
p. m. on Sundays and festivals. 

Journals, periodical publications, and other works, are sent 
under a band by post, at the rate of 4 centimes per sheet for 
France, and 8 for those foreign countries where a similar ar¬ 
rangement exists. The bureau, which is a special one at the 
General Post-office, is open from 5 '/■> a. m. to 5 p. m.; on Sun¬ 
days and holidays it is closed at 2 p. m. (1) The mails leave 
Paris daily at G in the evening. Letters for Cuba, Chagres, Bo¬ 
livia, Chili, the Equator, Peru, and the islands of the Pacific, 
leave Paris for London, on the 14th; for Calcutta, Ceylon, Ma¬ 
dras, and Bombay on 8th and 25th of each month. 

APARTMENTS, HOTELS, etc. —Although there is no diffi¬ 
culty in procuring lodgings in Paris to suit the dimensions of 
every purse, furnished apartments in private houses are by no 
means so numerous as in London, the place of lodging-houses 
of this description, upon which so large a part of the comfort 
and accommodation of the stranger in London depends, being 
supplied in Paris by private hotels, which, under the name of 
maisons meublees, contain every grade of lodging, from com¬ 
plete apartments for families, including separate kitchens ( a 
convenience worth mentioning, as in London very few houses 
have more than one), to a single bedroom. If the silence and 

(0 The last published receipts of the Post-office for ten years give the 
following results .—in 1836, total, 37,405,510 fr.; in 1837, 40,382,368 fr.; 
in 1838, 42,242,870 fr.; in 1839, 44,131,234 fr.; in 1840, 46,105,736 fr.; in 
1841, 48,042,439 fr.; in 1842, 48,897,226 fr.; in 1843, 48,777,847 fr.;in 
1844, 50 , 378,594 fr.; in 1845, 53,968,250 fr. In 1821, the receipts were 
only 24 , 000,000 fr. In 1 842, there passed through the Post-office 
99,282,163 letters; in 1843, 100,804,500; in 1844, 100,361,269; in 1845, 
108 , 409 , 639 . The total sum paid for the transmission of journals and 
periodicals in 1845 was nearly 3 , 000,000 fr. They were in number 
69,964,755. The total number of post-offices in France in 1847 was 3582, 

2 





14 INTRODUCTION. 

quietude of these abodes be not quite so home-like as in an 
English lodging-house, the traveller linds, perhaps, compensa¬ 
tion in the more perfect freedom he enjoys, his entrances, and 
exits, and his visitors, being quite free from the prying notice 
or surveillance which forms an unpleasant feature in lodgings 
in London. Matsons meuble'es are generally occupied by tra¬ 
vellers who come to sojourn in Paris for some little time; lor, 
if the voyageur proposes only to remain a few days, it is scarce¬ 
ly worth while to quit the hotel at which he happens to put 
up, should he find the accommodation satisfactory. Of hotels 
there is a great abundance in Paris, from the most luxurious 
down to those of the very humblest description. The charges 
are in general reasonable, and in these the traveller will be i 
able to tind lodgings, by the night, week, or month. An agree- | 
ment should always be made (even fora single night) previous 
to taking apartments in any hotel; the price of a bed-room for 
one night varies from 2 to 5 francs. (1) There are several board¬ 
ing-houses upon different scales of charge, both French and 
English. Unfurnished apartments may also be easily obtained, 
but not for less than three months. Furniture maybe procured 
from upholsterers, or purchased cheap at second-hand shops. 
To furnish is perhaps the most economical plan for those who 
intend to make a long stay in Paris. (2) Whatever hotel the tra¬ 
veller may fix himself in, it is not necessary that he should take 
his meals there; he will always find a coffee-house or restau- i 
rant in the neighbourhood, where he may breakfast or dine, i 
or from whence he may be served in his own rooms. The 
table-d'hote, if there be one in his hotel, is generally the cheap¬ 
est. Restaurateurs and traiteurs charge rather more for the 
dinners they send out than for those served on the spot. To an 
English traveller no hotel in Paris offers so many advantages as 
Meurice's, 42, rue de Rivoli. It is situated in a fine and agree¬ 
able spot, facing the palace and garden of the Tuileries. Apart¬ 
ments may be had by the day, week, or month; breakfasts are 
served in the coffee-room or in private apartments, and visitors 
may dine at the table-d'hote or in their own rooms. A list con¬ 
tains the charge for every article, servants, etc. The bill is 
sent in every week. Great regularity prevails in forwarding 
and delivering letters, and information of every kind is fur¬ 
nished. Couriers, interpreters, and return carriage for all parts, 
may be obtained. 

(1) The average number of hotels and furnished houses in Paris is 
5700, affording accommodation to an average number of 80,000 persons.. 

(2) For laws and regulations concerning the letting and hiring of 
apartments, etc., as far as they affect foreigners, see Laws of France 
affecting British Residents , in Okey’s Digest vo., to fr. 






RESTAURATEURS AND TRAITEURS. 45 

For other hotels and hoarding-houses see Directory. 

SERVANTS. — In almost every furnished hotel there are ser¬ 
vants who may lie hired for a month, fortnight, week, or day. 
The charge is generally 5 or G francs a-day, as they board 
themselves. They are called valets-clc-place, and we cannot 
too strongly advise travellers to take one, as he will be found 
to save them a great deal of time and much trouble. 

INTERPRETERS. — There are in Paris interpreters of every 
language, also offices kept by sworn translators. 

COMMISSIONNAIRES. — Porters, under this name, and dis¬ 
tinguished by a numbered brass plate, are found at the corners 
of all principal streets. Letters or parcels may be safely en¬ 
trusted to them, and their charges vary, according to weight 
or distance, from 10 to 30 sous. A company called Messagers 
Parisiens, having branch establishments in all quarters of the 
town, furnishes porters to execute commissions,saw firewood, 
remove furniture, etc., at greatly reduced prices. 

RESTAURATEURS AND TRAITEURS.—Among the many re¬ 
markable differences which present themselves to the English 
traveller between London and Paris, few strike him so forcibly 
as in these establishments. From the appearance of the prin¬ 
cipal restaurateurs between the hours of five and eight, the 
stranger would conclude that society in the gay capital of 
France live entirely in public. This is not exactly the case, 
though nothing is more common than for a great part of the 
Parisian community, including persons of the first distinction, 
to dine occasionally at a restaurateur’s. In fact, Paris no where 
presents to the eye of the foreigner a scene more elegant or 
agreeable than one of these splendid saloons in the first establish¬ 
ments, fitted up as they are and decorated in a style of the 
highest taste and luxury, and crowded with a brilliant company 
of both sexes, all partaking the pleasures of the table and so¬ 
ciety. No resident of Paris can be said to do the honours of 
the capital properly to his visiting friends if he neglect to give 
them a dinner at one of these sumptuous establishments. If 
in summer, the Amphitryon will probably select the Boule¬ 
vards as the scene of his hospitalities; in this case we strenuously 
advise a morning visit to the restaurateur’s, in order to bespeak 
a table at one of the windows. By this precaution the inviter 
enables his guests to gratify two senses instead of one—the eye 
as well as the palate—adding to the pleasures of the table the 
sight of one of the most pleasingly animated panoramas that all 
Europe can afford; for the evening scene of the Boulevards in 
this fashionable part of Paris, with its well-dressed crowds, 
seated in groups or promenading, its verdant trees, and its thou- 





\6 INTRODUCTION. 

sand lights, form altogether a coup d’ceil, Ilian which it is dilli- 
cult to imagine anything more lairy-like or enchanting. For¬ 
merly, privileged persons alone could keep eating-houses in 
Paris. In 17G5 a cook freed the public from this restraint, and 
prepared a room for refreshments, placing over the door the 
following parody of a passage in Scripture : — “Venite ad me 
omnes qui stomacho laboratis, et ego restaurabo vos.” This at¬ 
tempt was successful; and afterwards, when the Revolution 
brought many strangers to Paris, and the domestic habits of the 
Parisians were altered, these establishments increased every 
year, and are now to be found in all parts of Paris. Ladies fre¬ 
quent the restaurants as well as the cafes. In these houses 
there are generally private rooms called cabinets de societe, in 
which two friends or a party may dine in private. Besides the 
principal and second-rate restaurateurs, where the dinner is d 
la carte, there are other houses where dinners are served for 
a fixed sum per head. At the best of these houses a plentiful 
dinner, including wine, may be had for 2 francs. In the vici¬ 
nity of the Palais Royal, however, and indeed in most parts of 
Paris, a dinner may be had for 30, 25, and even 22 sous. The 
last of these prices will procure soup, 2 dishes at choice, a des¬ 
sert, bread, and a modicum of wine. There is also another 
class of cooks in Paris, called traiteurs, or petty restaurateurs, 
whose principal business is to send out dishes, or dinners ready 
dressed, to order. A family residing in lodgings, or at an hotel, 
will find it the cheapest mode to make a bargain with the trai- 
teur to be supplied, for a fixed period, with a certain number 
of dishes daily, at any hour agreed upon. One may also dine at 
some of these places, but it is not considered comme il faut. 
The restaurants are nearly as numerous as the cafes, and some 
even of the minor ones are very splendid. It is customary to 
retire immediately after dinner to a Cafe, to take a demi-tasse 
of coffee, and a petit verve de liqueur, instead of sitting over 
the wine as in England. Coffee may be had at the restaurants, 
but it is generally not so good. AVe refer the Reader to the 
Preface where he will find a list of the best dishes in French 
cookery. The principal restaurants are Very, Vefour, les Trois 
Freres Provemjaux, Perigord, and Cafe Corazza, all in the Pa¬ 
lais Royal; Cafe de Paris, Maison Doree, and Cafe Anglais, 
boulevard des Italiens; also the British Tavern, 104, rue Ri¬ 
chelieu. For list of other restaurants, as also taverns where 
English fare may be had, see Directory. 

CAFES. — The first cafe in Paris was established by an Ar¬ 
menian in 1697, and was greatly frequented. These establish- • 
ments multiplied rapidly under the reign of Louis XV., and be¬ 
came celebrated as the favourite resort of distinguished indivi- 






CAFES. 47 

duals. At present they are to be found in every quarter of the 
capital. These establishments rank among the most remark¬ 
able features which distinguish Paris to the eye of a stranger 
from almost all other capitals, for perhaps in no city in the 
world are they decorated with any approach to the same cost¬ 
liness and splendour with which they are for the most part got 
up here. Exceptions to this general expensive style of decora¬ 
tion lavished upon them are of course to be found, but on the 
western Boulevards, and other fashionable parts of the town, 
it is difficult to fancy any thing more tastefully brilliant than 
the tilting up of the Parisian coffee-rooms. When lighted up 
at night, the effect, either seen from the exterior or within, is 
perfectly dazzling. At the outside chairs and small tables are 
placed for the accommodation of the company, where they 
enjoy the cool of the evening, and witness the animated scene 
passing around them; while in the interior, look in what direc¬ 
tion you may, after you have entered most of them, and you 
see yourself reflected by mirrors, remarkable for their size and 
number; you find yourself bewildered with the blaze of light, 
amidst the confused glitter of gilding, painting, and glass; the 
eye is dazzled with gorgeousness, and the effect is heightened 
by the degree of taste and luxury displayed in the fitting up. 
Here it is, in these spacious rooms, resplendent with decoration 
and brilliant with light, that the character of the French people 
may be seen, amongst the numerous guests which nightly crowd 
together to amuse and to be amused. At almost all these places 
coffee, chocolate, tea, ices, liqueurs, etc., are to be obtained; 
as well as dejeuners d la fourchette , either hot or cold, with 
all sorts of substantial food and wines; but dinners and suppers 
are generally to be had only at the restaurateurs’. Among the 
privileges which the gentler sex enjoy in Paris, from which 
they are debarred by the ungallant customs of England, is the 
advantage of being able to visit these establishments, either in 
society or alone, without attracting observation. As many con¬ 
tinental habits are gradually finding their way into the British 
metropolis, we trust that this one, which is dictated as much 
by good sense and indeed humanity itself as politeness, will 
speedily receive the honours of denizenship.—Those establish¬ 
ments (it may be necessary to inform the stranger) where the 
word estaminet is written up, and in which smoking is al¬ 
lowed, are not of course eligible places for ladies to visit. 
Their charges do not much vary, and all of any degree of re¬ 
spectability are kept with an attention to cleanliness, that has 
become almost proverbial. The most splendid and attractive 
are the cafe Pierront, boulevard Poissonniere; cafe Cardinal, 
and cafe Tortoni, boulevard des Italiens; cafe de la Banque, 


18 INTRODUCTION. 

place des Victoires* cafe de Foy, and cafe Corazza, Palais Royal, 
cafe Veron, corner of the rue Vivienne and the boulevard. A 
list of other cafes will be found in the Directory. 

READING-ROOMS AND CIRCULATING LIBRARIES.—There 
are many establishments of this kind in Paris; but the most 
distinguished and most frequented by Frenchmen and foreign¬ 
ers, particularly Englishmen and Americans, is that of Messrs. 
Galignani and Co., No. 18 , rue Vivienne ( bottom of the court¬ 
yard ), which is conducted on a most extensive scale. The 
reading-room is spacious and handsome, well lighted and 
aired. The tables are covered with all the European news¬ 
papers and periodical publications worthy of notice, and there 
are upwards of 20,000 volumes in all languages. Contiguous to 
the room is a garden, for the use of the subscribers. The phi¬ 
losopher, the politician, and the student, may here enjoy their 
favourite pursuits, whilst the victims of ennui may pass their 
hours with pleasure and advantage. The terms of subscription 
are—per day, 10 sous ; a fortnight, 5 francs; a month, 8 fr. The 
Circulating Library of Messrs. Galignani is conspicuous among 
all others for its excellent selection and great number of vo¬ 
lumes. The subscription is by the fortnight or month. 

CERCLES.—These are societies conducted on similar prin¬ 
ciples to the clubs of London, the members subscribing for the 
support of a magnificent apartment, in which they assemble 
for the purpose of conversation and of reading the papers; card 
and billiard playing to a great extent is carried on in them. 
Members may also dine. To be admitted, the candidate must 
be proposed by a member, and ballotted for, as in London; 
they are intended principally for French society, and few fo¬ 
reigners belong to them, since their stay in Paris is generally 
short. The best are : the French Jockey Club, 2, rue Grange 
Bateliere and the boulevards; thecercle des Echecs, at the Cafe 
de la Regence, place du Palais Royal; the Ancien Cercle, 14, 
boulevard Montmartre : the Cercle des Arts, rue de Choiseul, 
corner of the boulevards; Cercle de VUnion, 28, rue de Gram- 
mont; Cercle du Commerce, 2, rue Lepelletier; Cercle Agricole, 
25, quai Voltaire; Athene'e Royal, 2, rue de Valois. 

MONETARY SYSTEM.—Accounts are kept in France in francs, 
each of 10 decimes or 100 centimes. The modern gold coins 
are pieces of 40 fr. and 20 fr. The silver coins are 5 fr., 2, 1, 
y 2 , and'A fr. The copper coins are 1 decime, or 2 sous, pieces 
of 5 centimes, or 1 sou, and of 1 centime. (1) In the monetary 

(l) Before 1795 accounts were kept in livres, of 20 sous, or 240 de- 
niers; the terms livres and francs for many years were used indiscri- 


MONETARY SYSTEM. \9 

system of France, the coins, if accurately minted, may serve 
also as weights. Thus, 5 francs in copper, 200 in standard 
silver, or 3100 in standard gold, should weigh l kilogramme. 
Hence the piece of l franc weighs 5 grammes, and any other 
piece in the above proportion. The gold coins of 20 francs and 
40 francs, struck under the government of Bonaparte, were 
called napoleons and double napoleons; and such is the force 
of habit, that these, as well as pieces of the same value struck 
since 1814, continue to he so called. They are also designated 
pieces de vingt francs” and “ pieces de quaranle francs ” 
The silver coins of 5 francs are frequently called “ pieces de 
cent sous; ” pieces of 2 francs “ pieces de quarante sous,” and 
so on. The only notes issued by the Bank of France are of 200 
500, and 1000 fr. These are convertible into silver at the Bank,’ 
without discount, except the charge of 3 sous for the bag which 
contains the change; or, at a small premium, into silver 
but much gicater in gold, at the different money-changers’ 
shops. (1) The French money being divided into decimal parts 
in reckoning, instead of 25 sous it is said 1 fr. 25 c.; instead of 
30 sous, 1 fr. 50 c., and so on. The gold as well as silver coins 
oft iance contain 1—10th alloy. A\hen the course of exchange 
is at par between France and England, 25 fr. are considered 
equal to the pound sterling; but at Paris and the principal 
towns of France, it is now 25 fr. 50 c. for £l : yet it varies 
especially in the smaller towns. The following table will be 
of great service for the ready conversion of English money into 
French, at any of the usual rates of exchange 

miuately, although 80 of the old Iivres were worth about 8i francs of the 
present coin. The double louis was rated at 48 Iivres; the simple louis 
at 24 Iivres; the large crown-piece, or ecu, at 6; and the small one, or 
petit ecu, at 3 Iivres. Pieces of 30 sous and 15 sous, made of mixed 
metal, were still in circulation a few years ago, but by a law passed in 
1840 they were ordered to be withdrawn, as also some pieces called six 
liards. The total value of the mass to be replaced by a uniform decimal 
copper coinage was stated by a committee, on the subject, as reaching 
76,840,000 fr., and its estimated weight 18,000,0001b. The amount of 
gold and silver coin in France, in Jan. 1846, was 4,821,246,861 fr.; viz. 
gold, 1,167,441,720 fr-; silver, 3,653,805,142 fr., not including about 
106,327,255 fr. of 5 franc pieces bearing the Hercules, and coined 
previous to 1803. 

(l) The gold coinage in France not being in sufficient quantity, while 
on account of its portability it is much sought after, is always at a 
premium of from 7 fr. to 14 fr. the 1000 fr. 


INTRODUCTION. 


20 


BRITISH CURRENCY 


£ 

251 

251 25c. 

251 30c. 

251 35c. 

251 40c. 

251 45c. 

1000 

25,000 

)) 

25,250 

)) 

25,300 » 

25,350 » 

25,400 » 

25,450 » 

800 

20,000 

)) 

20,200 

» 

20,240 » 

20,280 » 

20,320 » 

20,360 » 

000 

15,000 

» 

15,150 

)) 

15,180 » 

15,210 >» 

15,240 » 

15,270 » 

500 

12,500 

)> 

12,G25 

» 

12,650 » 

12,675 » 

12,700 » 

12,725 » 

400 

10,000 

» 

10,100 

)) 

10,120 » 

10,140 » 

10,160 » 

10,180 » 

300 

7,500 

)) 

7,575 

» 

7,590 >» 

7,605 » 

7,620 » 

7,635 » 

200 

5,000 

» 

5,050 


5,060 » 

5,070 » 

5,080 » 

5,090 » 

100 

2,500 

)) 

2,525 

)) 

2,530 .» 

2,535 » 

2,540 » 

2,545 » 

50 

1,250 

)) 

1,262 

50 

1,265 » 

1,267 50 

1,270 » 

1,272 50 

40 

1,000 

)) 

1,010 

)) 

1,012 » 

1,014 » 

1,016 » 

1,018 » 

30 

750 

)) 

757 

50 

759 »> 

760 50 

762 » 

763 50 

20 

500 

y> 

505 

» 

506 » 

507 »> 

508 » 

509 » 

10 

250 

» 

252 50 

253 » 

253 50 

254 » 

254 50 

9 

225 

» 

227 

25 

227 70 

228 15 

228 60 

229 5 

8 

200 

» 

202 

)) 

202 40 

202 80 

203 20 

203 60 

7 

175 

» 

176 

75 

177 10 

177 45 

177 80 

178 15 

0 

150 

» 

151 

50 

151 80 

152 10 

152 40 

152 70 

5 

125 

)> 

126 

25 

126 50 

126 75 

127 » 

127 25 

4 

100 

» 

101 

» 

101 20 

101 40 

101 60 

101 80 

3 

75 


75 

75 

75 90 

76 5 

76 20 

76 35 

2 

50 

» 

50 

50 

50 60 

50 70 

50 80 

50 90 

1 

25 

» 

25 

25 

25 30 

25 35 

25 40 

25 45 

lil. 10 

12 

50 

12 

62 

12 65 

12 67 

12 70 

12 72 

11 '45 

9 

11 

25 

11 

36 

11 38 

11 40 

11 43 

8 

10 

» 

10 

10 

10 12 

10 14 

10 16 

10 18 

7 

8 

75 

8 

83 

8 85 

8 87 

8 89 

8 90 

0 

7 

50 

7 

57 

7 59 

7 60 

7 62 

7 63 

5 

0 

25 

6 

31 

6 32 

6 33 

6 35 

6 36 

4 

5 

» 

5 

5 

5 6 

5 7 

5 8 

5 9 

3 

3 

75 

3 

78 

3 79 

3 80 

3 8 

3 81 

2 

2 50 

2 52 

2 53 

2 53 

2 54 

2 54 

1 

1 

25 

1 

26 

1 26 

1 26 

1 27 

1 27 































£ 

000 

800 

000 

500 

400 

300 

200 

100 

50 

40 

30 

20 

10 

9 

8 

7 

6 

5 

4 

3 

2 

1 

il. 10 

9 

8 

i 

0 

5 

4 

3 

2 

1 


MONETARY SYSTEM 


21 



INTO FRANCS. 


25f. 50c. 

25f. 55c. 

25f. 60c. 

25,500 

)) 

25,550 

» 

25,GOO 

» 

20,400 

» 

20,440 

» 

20,480 

)) 

15,300 


15,330 

» 

15,3G0 

» 

12,750 

)> 

12,775 

)) 

12,800 

)) 

10,200 

)) 

10,220 

)) 

10,240 

)> 

7,G50 

» 

7,6G5 

» 

7,G70 

)> 

5,100 

)) 

5,110 

)) 

5.120 

» 

2,550 

» 

2,555 

» 

2,560 

)) 

1,275 

)) 

1,277 

50 

1,280 

)) 

1,020 

)) 

1,022 

» 

1,024 

)) 

7G5 

)) 

7GG 

50 

768 

» 

510 

)) 

511 

» 

512 

)) 

255 

» 

255 

50 

25G 

)) 

229 

50 

229 

95 

230 

40 

204 

» 

204 

40 

204 

80 

178 

50 

178 

85 

179 

20 

153 

)) 

153 

30 

153 

60 

127 

50 

127 

75 

128 

)) 

102 

» 

102 

20 

102 

40 

76 

50 

7G 

65 

76 

80 

51 

» 

51 

10 

51 

20 

25 

50 

25 

55 

25 

60 

12 

75 

12 

77 

12 

80 

11 

47 

11 

49 

11 

52 

10 

20 

10 

22 

10 

24 

8 

92 

8 

94 

8 

96 

7 

G5 

i 

G6 

<7 

/ 

68 

G 

37 

G 

38 

6 

40 

5 

10 

5 

11 

5 

12 

3 

82 

3 

83 

3 

84 

2 

55 

2 

55 

2 

56 

1 

27 

1 

27 

1 

28 


25f. 65c. 

25f. 70c. 

25f. 75c. 

25,650 

)) 

25,700 

» 

25,750 

» 

20,520 

)) 

20,560 

» 

20,600 

» 

15,390 

)) 

15,420 

» 

15,450 


12,825 

)) 

12,850 

» 

12,875 

» 

10,260 

)) 

10,280 

» 

10,300 

» 

7,585 

)) 

7,700 

D 

7,715 

» 

5,130 

» 

5,140 

» 

5,150 

» 

2,565 

» 

2,570 

» 

2,575 

» 

1,282 

50 

1,285 

» 

1,287 

50 

1,026 

» 

1,028 

)) 

1,030 

» 

769 

50 

771 

» 

772 

50 

513 

)) 

514 

» 

515 

» 

256 

50 

257 

» 

257 

50 

230 

85 

231 

30 

231 

75 

205 

20 

205 

60 

206 

» 

179 

55 

179 

90 

180 

25 

153 

90 

154 

20 

154 

50 

128 

25 

128 

50 

128 

75 

102 

60 

102 

80 

103 

» 

76 

95 

77 

10 

77 

25 

51 

30 

51 

40 

51 

50 

25 

65 

25 

70 

25 

75 

12 

82 

12 

85 

12 

87 

11 

54 

11 

56 

11 

58 

10 

26 

11 

28 

10 

30 

8 

98 

9 

)> 

9 

1 

7 

70 

7 

71 

7 

72 

6 

42 

6 

43 

6 

44 

5 

13 

5 

14 

5 

15 

3 

85 

3 

85 

3 

87 

2 

57 

2 

57 

2 

58 

1 

28 

1 

29 

1 

29 









22 INTRODUCTION. 

WEIGHTS, MEASURES, etc. —The present metrical or deci¬ 
mal system, partially established in 1795, and confirmed by a 
special law, in operation from the 1st of January, 1840, is 
adopted permanently, to the exclusion of all others; and parties 
using the old weights and measures are liable to prosecution. 
This enforced uniformity had been tried before by the repub¬ 
lican governments, but habit prevailed over their ephemeral 
laws, and even at present its adoption has encountered much 
difficulty, notwithstanding the advantages presented by its sim¬ 
plicity over the system it is intended to supersede, but which 
is still pertinaciously adhered to in most parts of the country. 
The basis adopted for all measures and weights is the metre, 
which is the ten-millionth part of the distance from the pole 
to the equator. This is adopted as the unit of length, and from 
which, by decimal multiplication and division, all other mea¬ 
sures are derived. The length of the quadrant of the terrestrial 
meridian was ascertained by Messrs. Delambre and Mechain, 
by measuring an arc of the meridian between the parallels of 
Dunkirk and Barcelona. The metre is equal to 39.371 English 
inches. 

The following tables, from the Annuaire du Bureau des Lon¬ 
gitudes, give the comparative values of the French and English 
weights and measures, in the decimal system. (1) 

( 1 ) The ancient standard weight of France was the golds de marc. The 
livre or pound, now kilo,” was divided into 2 marcs=t6 oz.= i28gros 
= 9,216 grains; equal to 0.4895 kilos. French, or 7.555 grains English. 
The corn-measure of Paris was the rnuid, divided into 12 seders, or 
144 boisseaux. The seller equalled l.56 hectolitre, or 4.427 English 
bushels. The principal measure for wine was also the inuid, divided into 
144 quarts, or 288 pinies. The pinte answered to o.93i litre, or 0.2459 
English gallon, being about an English quart. The old French foot was 
divided into 12 inches 1 44 lines, or 1-828 points, and equalled 0.32484 
metres, or 12.7893 English inches. The aune of Paris was 1.1888 m6lre, 
or, 46.35 English inches. 1 he toise, or fathom, was 6 old feet, equal to 
l 949 metre, or 6.395 English feet. The mile was 1000 toises=i949.036 
metres, or l English mile, l furlong, 28 poles. The lieue, or league, 
legal road measure, was 2000 loises. The arpent, or acre, was mostly 
100 square perches, but the perch varied in different provinces. There 
was also a mixed system between the new and old, called the sysi'eme 
usuel, having the melee as the standard, but with binary divisions. As 
this has also been abolished by law, we need only mention that the 
toise usuelle (of 2 metres) equalled 6 5 /, feet English, and the aune 
3 feet li V, inches English, with their several subdivisions into inches 
and lines • The boisseau usuel was */« hectolitre, or 0.35474 bushel Eng¬ 
lish. The litron was 2 1-19 English pints. Apothecaries used to com¬ 
pound by the sysi'eme usuel t and diamonds were weighed by carats, each 
of 2.01 decigrammes, or 3 l-io grains, English. The old pound weight 
of France, still spoken of, but now never used, was l lb. i 10-10 oz. 
English, and the quintal mdtrique— l cwt. 3 qrs, 24 lb. 8 oz. 



SYSTEMATIC 

NAMES. 

Measures of 
Length. 
Myriametre... 

Kilometre. 

Decametre.... 
Metre. 


Decimetre 
Centimetre.... 
Millimetre.... 
Superficial 
Measures. 

Hectare. 

Are. 

Centiare. 

Measures of 
Capacity. 
Kilolitre. 

Hectolitre 
Decalitre. 

Litre... 

Decilitre. 

Measures of 
Solidity. 

Stere. 

Decislere. 

Weights. 

Millier. 

Quintal. 

Kilogramme .. 


Hectogramme. 
Decagramme.. 

Gramme. 

Decigramme.. 


WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. 


23 


FRENCH VALUE. 


ENGLISH VALUE. 


10,000 metres. 

1,000 metres. 

10 metres. 

Fundamental unit of 
weights and measures. 
It is the l-10,000,000lh 
part of the arc of the me¬ 
ridian from the pole to 

the equator. 

1-tOth of a metre. 

1-lOOlh of a metre. 

1-1000th of a metre. 


10,000 square metres 
100 square metres.., 
1 square metre. 


1 cubic metre, or 1000 cu¬ 
bic decimetres. 

100 cubic decimetres. 

10 cubic decimetres. 

1 cubic decimetre.. 

l-10th cubic decimetre.. 


6.2138 miles. 
1093.633 yards. 
10.93633 yards. 
3.2808992 feet, or 
1.093633 yard. 


3.937079 inches. 
0.393708 inch. 
0.03937 inch. 


2.471143 acres. 
0.098845 rood. 
1.196033 square yard. 


220.09668 gallons. 
22.00967 gallons. 
2.20097 gallons. 
0.22009 gallon * or 
1.760773 pint. 
0.17608 pint. 


1 cubic metre. 

1—10th cubic metre. 

1000 kil., or 1 French ton. 

100 kilogrammes. 

Weight of l cubic deci¬ 
metre of water of the 
temperature of 4° (Cent.) 
or 39° 12' (Fahrenheit).. 

1-lOtli of kilogramme_ 

1—100th of kilogramme... 

l-1000th of kilogramme.. 

1-10,000th of kilogramme. 


35.31658 cubic feet. 
3.53166 cubic feet. 

19.7 cwt. 

1.97 cwt. 


2.6803 lb. troy, or 
2.2055 lb. avoirdupois. 
3.2 ounces troy. 

3.52 ounces avoirdupois. 
6.43 pennyweights troy. 
15.438 grains troy. 

0.643 pennyweight. 
0.032 ounce troy. 

1.5438 grain troy. 


It may assist the memory to observe that the terms for mul 
tiplying are Greek and those for dividing, Latin. 


































INTRODUCTION. 


'U 


ENGLISH MEASURES AND WEIGHTS COMPARED WITH FRENCH. 


Long Measure. 


Inch (1—3Gth of yard). 

Foot (l-3d of yard). 

Imperial yard. 

Fathom (2 yards). 

Pole or perch (5 'A yards). 

Furlong (220 yards).. . 

Mile (1760 yards). 

2.639954 

3.0479449 

0,91438348 

1.82876696 

5.02911 

201.16437 

1609.3149 

centimetres. 

decimetres. 

metre. 

metre. 

metres. 

metres. 

metres. 

Square Measure. 


Square yard. 

Rod (square perch). 

Rood (1210 square yards). 

Acre (4840 square yards). 

0.836097 

25.291939 

10.116775 

0.404671 

sq. metre, 
sq. metres, 
ares, 
hectare. 

Measures of Capacity. 


Pint (l-8th of gallon). 

Quart (l-4th of gallon). 

Imperial gallon. 

Peck (2 gallons)... 

Bushel (8 gallons). 

Sack (3 bushels). 

Quarter (8 bushels). 

Chaldron (12 sacks). 

0.567932 
1.135864 
4.54345797 
9.0869159 
36.347 664 
1.09043 
2.907813 
13.08516 

litre. 

litre. 

litres. 

litres. 

litres. 

hectolitre. 

hectolitres. 

hectolitres. 

Troy Weight. (1) 


Grain (1—24th of pennyweight). . . . 
Pennyweight (l-20lh of ounce). . . 
Ounce (1-I2th of pound troy). . . . 
Imperial pound troy. ........ 

0.065 

1.555 

31.091 

0.373096 

gramme. 

gramme. 

grammes. 

kilogramme. 


Avoirdupois Weight. 


Dram (1—16th of ounce). 1.771 gramme. 

Ounce (1—16th of pound). 28.338 grammes. 

Imperial pound avoirdupois. .... 0.4634 kilogramme. 

Quintal or hundred-weight (112 lb.). 60.78 kilogrammes. 

Ton (20 quintals or hundred-weights). 1016.06 kilogrammes. 


The following tables, drawn up with the greatest care, will 
be found very useful for purposes of ready calculation. Some 
of them are superseded by the system we have just given, but 
they will nevertheless be found occasionally of use. 


(I) The weights, though not perfectly exact, are sufficiently so for all 
hut strictly mathematical purposes. 

























WEIGHTS AND MEASURES 


French Kilogrammes into English Pounds ( avoirdupois ). 


Kil. 

E. Pds. 

Kil. 

E. Pds. 

Kil. 

E. Pds. 

Kil. 

E. Pds. 

Kil. 

Elig.Pds. 

l 

2.206 

14 

30.880 

27 

59.554 

40 

88.228 

300 

661.714 

2 

4.411 

15 

33.086 

28 

61.760 

41 

90.434 

400 

882.286 

3 

6.617 

16 

35.291 

29 

63.966 

42 

92.640 

500 

1,102.857 

4 

8.823 

17 

37.497 

30 

66.171 

43 

94.846 

1,000 

2,205.714 

5 

11.028 

18 

39.703 

31 

68.377 

44 

97.051 

2,000 

4,4(1.429 

6 

13.234 

19 

41.908 

32 

70.583 

45 

99.257 

3,000 

7,617.143 

7 

15.440 

20 

44.114 

33 

72.788 

46 

101.463 

4,000 

8,822.857 

8 

17.646 

21 

46.320 

34 

74.994 

47 

103.668 

5.000 

11,028.571 

9 

19.851 

22 

48.526 

35 

77.200 

48 

105.874 

10,000 

22,057.1 43 

10 

22.057 

23 

50.731 

36 

79.405 

49 

108.080 

20,000 

44,1 14.286 

11 

24.263 

24 

52.937 

37 

81.611 

50 

110.286 

30.000 

66,171.429 

12 

26.468 

25 

55.143 

38 

83-817 

100 

220.571 

40,000 

88,228.572 

13 

28.674 

26 

57.348 

39 

86-023 

200 

441.153 

50,000 

110,285.715 


French Pounds into English Pounds ( avoirdupois ). 


Fr. 

Eng. 

Fr. 

Eng. 

Fr. 

Eng. 

Fr. 

Eng. 

Fr. 

Eng. 

Pds. 

Pds. 

Pds. 

Pds. 

Pds 

Pds. . 

Pds. 

Pds. 

Pds. 

Pds. 

l 

1.080 

14 

15.116 

27 

29.152 

40 

43.188 

300 

323.913 

2 

2.159 

15 

16.196 

28 

30.232 

41 

44.268 

400 

431.884 

3 

3.239 

16 

17.275 

29 

31.312 

42 

45.348 

500 

539.855 

4 

4.319 

17 

18.355 

30 

32.391 

43 

46.427 

1,000 

1,079.710 

5 

5.398 

18 

19.435 

31 

33.471 

44 

47.507 

2,000 

2,159.420 

6 

6.478 

19 

20.514 

32 

34.551 

45 

48.587 

3,000 

3,239.130 

7 

7.558 

20 

21.594 

33 

35.630 

46 

49.666 

4,000 

4,318.840 

8 

8.038 

21 

22.674 

34 

36.710 

47 

50.746 

5,000 

5,398.550 

9 

9.717 

22 

23.754 

35 

37.790 

48 

51.826 

10,000 

10,797.100 

10 

10.797 

23 

24,833 

36 

38.869 

49 

52.906 

20,000 

21,594.200 

11 

11.877 

24 

25.913 

37 

39.993 

50 

53.985 

30,000 

32,391.300 

12 

12.956 

25 

26.949 

38 

41.029 

100 

107.971 

40,000 

43,188.400 

13 

14.036 

26 

28.072 

39 

42.109 

200 

215.942 

50,000 

53,985.500 


French Hectolitres into English Bushels. 


Hect 

Bush. 

Hect. Bush. 

1 Hect. Bush. 

Hect. Bush. 

Hect. 

Bushels. 

1 

2.838 

13 

36.893 

25 

70.948 

37 

105.002 

49 

139.057 

2 

5.676 

14 

39.731 

26 

73.785 

38 

107.840 

50 

141.895 

3 

8.514 

15 

42.568 

27 

76.623 

39 

110.678 

100 

283.791 

4 

11.352 

16 

45.406 

28 

79.461 

40 

113.516 

200 

567.581 

5 

14.189 

17 

48.244 

29 

82.299 

41 

116.354 

300 

851.372 

6 

17.027 

18 

51.082 

30 

85.137 

42 

119.192 

400 

1,135.162 

7 

19.865 

19 

53.920 

31 

87.975 

43 

122.030 

500 

1,418.953 

8 

22.703 

20 

56.758 

32 

90.813 

44 

124.868 

1,000 

2,837.906 

9 

25.541 

21 

59.596 

33 

93.651 

45 

127.706 

2.000 

5,675.812 

10 

28.379 

22 

62.434 

34 

96.489 

46 

130.544 

3,000 

8,513.718 

11 

31.217 

23 

65.272 

35 

99.327 

47 

133.381 

4,000 

11,351.624 

12 

34.055 

24 

68.110 

36 

102.165 

48 

136 219 

5,000 

14,189.531 


French Hectares into English Acres. 


Hect. Acres. 

Hect. Acres. 

Hect. Acres. 

Hect. Acres. 

Hect. 

Acres. 

l 

2.471 

8 

19.769 

15 

37.067 

40 98.846 

200 

494.229 

2 

4.942 

9 

22.240 

16 

39.538 

50 123.557 

300 

741.343 

3 

7.413 

10 

24.711 

17 

42.009 

60 148.268 

400 

988.457 

4 

9.884 

11 

27.182 

18 

44.480 

70 172.980 

500 

1,235.571 

5 

12.356 

12 

29.654 

19 

46.952 

80 197.691 

1,000 

2,471.143 

6 

14.827 

13 

32.125 

20 

49.423 

90 222.403 

2,000 

4,942.286 

7 

17.298 

14 

34.596 

30 

74.134 

100 247.114 

5,000 

12,355.715 


3 


















26 


INTRODUCTION. 


French Kilometres and Myriametres into English Miles, etc. 


Kilom. Eng. 

miles. Furlongs. 

Yds. 

Kilom. Eng. miles. Furlongs. 

Yds. 

l 

0 

4 

213 

8 4 

7 

164 

2 

1 

1 

206 

9 5 

4 

157 

3 

1 

6 

199 

l myria. 6 

1 

156 

4 

2 

3 

192 

2 ' 12 

3 

92 

5 

3 

0 

185 

3 18 

5 

10 

6 

3 

5 

178 

4 24 

6 

160 

7 

4 

3 

171 

5 31 

0 

90 


French Lieues de Poste into English Miles and Yards. 


L. 

Mis 

. Y'ds. 

L. 

Mis. 

Yds. 

L. 

Mis. 

Yds. 

L. 

Mis, 


Yds. 

1 

2 

743.061 

11 

26 1 

,133.671 

30 

72 1 

,171.832 

400 

968 

1 

,544.428 

2 

4 

1,486.122 

12 

29 

116.732 

40 

96 1 

,562.443 

500 

1,211 


170.535 

3 

7 

469.183 

13 

31 

859.794 

50 

121 

193.053 

600 

1,453 


556.642 

4 

9 

1,212.244 

14 

33 1 

,602.855 

60 

145 

583.664 

700 

1,695 


942.749 

5 

12 

195.305 

15 

36 

585.916 

70 

169 

974.275 

800 

1,937 

1 

,328.856 

6 

14 

938.366 

16 

38 1 

,328.977 

80 

193 1 

,364.886 

900 

2,179 

1 

,714.963 

7 

16 

1,681.427 

17 

41 

312.038 

90 

217 1 

,755.496 

1,000 

2,422 


341.070 

8 

19 

664.488 

18 

43 1 

,055.099 

100 

242 

386.107 

2,000 

4,844 


682.140 

9 

21 

1,407.549 

19 

46 

38.160 

200 

484 

772 214 

3,000 

7,266 

1 

,023.210 

io 

24 

390.610 

20 

48 

781.221 

300 

726 1 

,158.321 

5,000 

12,110 

1 

,705.350 


French Litres into English Gallons. 


Lit. 

Gall. 

Lit. 

Gall. 

Lit 

Gall. 

Lit. 

Gall. 

Lit. 

Gall. 

l 

0.264 

13 

3.434 

25 

6.605 

37 

9.775 

49 

12.945 

2 

0.526 

14 

3.699 

26 

6.869 

38 

10.039 

50 

13.209 

3 

0.792 

15 

3.963 

27 

7.133 

39 

10.303 

100 

26.419 

4 

1.057 

16 

4.227 

28 

7.397 

40 

10 567 

200 

52.837 

5 

1.321 

17 

4.491 

29 

7.661 

41 

10.832 

300 

79.256 

6 

1.585 

18 

4.755 

30 

7.925 

42 

11.096 

400 

105.674 

7 

1.849 

19 

5.019 

31 

8.190 

43 

11 360 

500 

132.093 

8 

2.113 

20 

5.284 

32 

8.454 

44 

11.624 

1,000 

264.186 

9 

2.378 

21 

5.548 

33 

8.718 

45 

11.888 

2.000 

528.372 

10 

2.642 

22 

5.812 

34 

8.982 

46 

12.152 

3,000 

792.558 

11 

2.906 

23 

6.076 

35 

9.246 

47 

12.417 

4,000 

1,056.744 

12 

3.170 

24 

6.340 

36 

9.511 

48 

12.681 

5,000 

1,320.930 


French Toises into English Feet and Inches. 


Tois. Feet. Inch. 

Tois.Feet. Inch. 

Tois. Feet. 

Inch, 

Tois. Feet. 

Inch. 

l 

6 

4.735 

li 

70 

4.086 

30 

191 

10.053 

400 

2,557 10.040 

2 

12 

9.470 

12 

76 

8.821 

40 

255 

9.404 

500 

3,197 

3.550 

3 

19 

2.205 

13 

83 

1.556 

50 

319 

8.755 

600 

3.836 

9.060 

4 

25 

6.940 

14 

89 

6.291 

60 

383 

8.106 

700 

4,476 

2.570 

5 

31 

11.675 

15 

95 

11.026 

70 

447 

7.457 

800 

5,115 

8.080 

6 

38 

4.410 

16 

102 

3.761 

80 

511 

6.808 

900 

5,755 

1.590 

7 

44 

9.146 

17 

108 

8.497 

90 

575 

6.159 

1,000 

6,394 

7.100 

8 

51 

1.881 

18 

115 

1.232 

100 

639 

5.510 

2,000 

12,789 

2.200 

9 

57 

6,616 

19 

121 

5.967 

200 

1.278 

11.020 

3,000 

19,183 

9.300 

10 

6,3 

11.351 

20 

127 

19.702 

300 

1,918 

4.530 

4,000 

25,578 

4.400 


French “Aunes de Paris” into English Yards. 


Aun. 

Yds. 

Aun 

Yds. 

Aun 

Yds. 

Aun 

. Y'ds. 

Aun. 

Yds. 

1 

1.300 

7 

9.098 

13 

16.896 

19 

24.695 

70 

90.981 

2 

2.599 

8 

10.398 

14 

18.196 

20 

25.994 

80 

103.978 

3 

3.899 

9 

11.697 

15 

19.496 

30 

38.992 

90 

116.975 

4 

5.199 

10 

12.997 

16 

20.795 

40 

51.989 

100 

129.972 

5 

6.499 

11 

44.297 

17 

22.095 

50 

64.986 

200 

259.945 

6 

7.799 

12 

15.597 

18 

23.395 

60 

77.983 

500 

649.862 

















WEIGHTS AND MEASURES 


27 


French Inches and, Feet into English Inches and Feet. 


French English 

Fr. 

Eng. 

Fr. 

Eng. 

Fr. 

Entr. 

Inches.Inches. 

Feet. 

F. 

I. 

Feet. 

F. 

I. 

Feet. 

F. 

I. 

l 

0 

1.066 

18 

19 

2.205 

49 

52 

2.670 

80 

85 

3.135 

2 

0 

2.132 

19 

20 

2.994 

50 

53 

3.459 

81 

86 

3.924 

3 

0 

3.197 

20 

21 

3.784 

51 

54 

4.248 

82 

87 

4.713 

4 

0 

4.263 

21 

22 

4.573 

52 

55 

5.037 

83 

88 

5.502 

5 

0 

5.329 

22 

23 

5.362 

53 

56 

5.827 

84 

89 

6.291 

6 

0 

6.395 

23 

24 

6.151 

54 

57 

6.615 

85 

90 

7.081 

7 

0 

7.460 

24 

25 

6.940 

55 

58 

7.405 

86 

91 

7.870 

8 

0 

8.526 

25 

26 

7.729 

56 

59 

8.194 

87 

92 

8.659 

y 

0 

9.592 

26 

27 

8.519 

57 

60 

8.983 

88 

93 

9.448 

10 

0 

10.658 

27 

28 

9.308 

58 

61 

9.773 

89 

94 

10.237 

11 

0 

11.723 

28 

29 

10.097 

59 

62 

10.562 

90 

95 

11.026 




29 

30 

10.886 

60 

63 

11.351 

91 

96 

11.816 

Fr. 


Eng. 

30 

31 

11.675 

61 

65 

0.140 

92 

98 

0.605 

Feet. 

F. 

I. 

31 

33 

0.465 

62 

66 

0.929 

93 

99 

1.394 

l 

1 

0.789 

32 

34 

1.254 

63 

67 

1.719 

94 

100 

2.183 

2 

2 

1.578 

33 

35 

2.043 

64 

68 

2.508 

95 

101 

2.972 

3 

3 

2.367 

34 

36 

2.832 

65 

69' 

3.297 

96 

102 

3.762 

4 

4 

3.157 

35 

37 

3.621 

66 

70 

4 086 

97 

103 

4.557 

5 

5 

3.946 

36 

38 

4.411 

67 

71 

4.875 

98 

104 

5.343 

6 

6 

4.735 

37 

39 

5.200 

68 

72 

5 664 

99 

105 

6.121 

7 

7 

5.524 

38 

40 

5.989 

69 

73 

6.454 

100 

106 

6.910 

8 

8 

6.313 

39 

41 

6.778 

70 

74 

7.243 

200 

213 

1.839 

9 

9 

7.103 

40 

42 

7 567 

71 

75 

8.032 

300 

319 

8.758 

10 

10 

7.892 

41 

43 

8.356 

72 

76 

8.821 

400 

426 

3.677 

11 

11 

8.681 

42 

44 

9.146 

73 

77 

9.6(0 

500 

532 

10.595 

12 

12 

9.470 

43 

45 

9.935 

74 

78 

10.400 

600 

639 

5.513 

13 

13 

10.259 

44 

46 

10.724 

75 

79 

11.189 

700 

746 

0.422 

14 

14 11.048 

45 

47 

11.513 

76 

80 

11.978 

800 

852 

7.340 

15 

15 11.838 

46 

49 

0.302 

77 

82 

0.767 

900 

959 

2.269 

16 

17 

0.627 

47 

50 

1.092 

78 

83 

1.556 

1000 

1065 

9.187 

17 

18 

1 416 

48 

51 

1.881 

79 

84 

2.345 

2000 

2131 

6.365 


French Metres into English Feet and Inches. 


Met. Feet. Inch. 

Met.Feet. Inch. 

Met. Feet 

Inch. 

Metres. Feet. 

Inch. 

1 

3 

3.371 

ll 

36 

1.079 

30 

98 

5.124 

400 

1,312 

4.316 

2 

6 

6.741 

12 

39 

4 449 

40 

131 

2.832 

500 

1,640 

5 395 

3 

9 

10.112 

13 

42 

7.820 

50 

164 

0.539 

600 

1,968 

6.474 

4 

13 

1.483 

14 

45 

11.191 

60 

196 

10.247 

700 

2,296 

7.558 

5 

16 

4.854 

15 

49 

2.562 

70 

229 

7.955 

800 

2,624 

8.632 

6 

19 

8.225 

16 

52 

5.933 

80 

262 

5.663 

900 

2,952 

9.711 

7 

22 

11.595 

17 

55 

9.303 

90 

295 

3.371 

1,000 

3,280 

10.790 

8 

26 

2.966 

18 

59 

0.674 

100 

328 

1.079 

2,000 

6,561 

9 580 

9 

29 

6.337 

19 

62 

4.045 

200 

656 

2.1 58 

3,000 

9,842 

8.370 

10 

32 

9.708 

20 

65 

7.416 

300 

984 

3.237 

5,000 

16,404 

5.950 


French Arpens into English Acres. 


Arp. 

Acres. 

Arp. Acres. 

Arp. Acres. 

Arp. 

Acres. 

Arp. Acres. 

1 

1.043 

8 

8.344 

15 

15.645 

40 

41.721 

200 208.606 

2 

2.086 

9 

9.387 

16 

16.688 

50 

52.151 

300 312.908 

3 

3.129 

10 

10.430 

17 

17.731 

60 

62.581 

400 417.210 

4 

4.172 

ll 

11.473 

18 

18.774 

70 

73.012 

500 521.513 

5 

5.215 

12 

12.516 

29 

19.817 

80 

83.442 

1,000 1,043.026 

6 

6.258 

13 

13.559 

20 

20.861 

90 

93.872 

2,000 2,086.052 

7 

7.301 

14 

14.602 

30 

31.291 

100 

104.303 

5,000 6,215.131 












28 


INTRODUCTION. 


French and English Barometrical Scales. —To the foregoing 
tables it may be useful to add the following comparative scale: 
704 millimetres equal 26 Fr. inches or 27.7 Eng. in. nearly. 


731 

» 

27 

» 

28.8 

750 

» 

28 

» 

29.8 

779 

» 

29 

» 

30.7 


In the thermometrical scales, 
Freezing point is marked 0 

» 0 

» 32° 


in the Centigrade, or French 
scale. 

in Reaumur’s. 

in Fahrenheit’s or the English 


Boiling heat is marked 100° 
» 80° 
» 212 ° 

Hence 4° Reaumur=9° 


scale. 

in the Centigrade, 
in Reaumur’s, 
in Fahrenheit’s. 
Fahrenheit=5° Cenli 


grade. 


From these two equations all the other corresponding values 
of the scales may he deduced. 


Centigrade and Reaumur's Therm,ometric Scales turned into 

Fahrenheit’s. 


C. R. F. 
100.0 80 212.00 

98.7 79 209.75 

97.5 78 207.50 

96.2 77 205.25 
95.0 76 203.00 
93 7 75 200.75 

92.5 74 198.50 

91.2 73 196.25 
90.0 72 194.00 

88.7 71 191.75 

87.5 70 189.50 

86.2 69 187.25 
85.0 68 185.00 

83.7 67 182.75 

82.5 66 180.50 

81.2 65 178.25 
80.0 64 176.00 

78.7 63 173.75 

77.5 62 171.50 

76.2 61 169.25 
75.0 60 167.00 

73.7 59 164.75 

72.5 58 162 50 


C. R. F. 

71.2 57 160.25 
70.0 56 158.00 

68.7 55 155.75 

67.5 54 153.50 

66.2 53 151.25 
65.0 52 149.00 

63.7 51 146.75 

62.5 50 144.50 

61.2 49 142.25 
60.0 48 140.00 

58.7 47 137.75 

57.5 46 135.50 

56.2 45 133.25 
55.0 44 131.00 

53.7 43 128.75 

52.5 42 126.50 

51.2 41 124 25 
50.0 40 122.00 

48.7 39 119.75 

47.5 38 117.50 

46.2 37 115.25 
45.0 36 113.00 

43.7 35 110.75 


C. 

R. 

F. 

42.5 

34 

108.50 

41.2 

33 

106.25 

40.0 32 

104.00 

38.7 

31 

101.75 

37 5 

30 

99.50 

36.2 

29 

97.25 

35.0 

28 

95 00 

33.7 

27 

92.75 

32.5 

26 

90.50 

31.2 25 

88.25 

30.0 24 

86.00 

28.7 

23 

83.75 

27 5 

22 

81.50 

26.2 21 

79 25 

25.0 20 

77.00 

23.7 

19 

74.75 

22.5 

18 

72.50 

21.2 

17 

70.25 

20.0 

16 

68.00 

18.7 

15 

65.75 

17.5 

14 

63.50 

16.2 

13 

61.25 

15.0 

12 

59.00 


c. 

R. 

F. 

13.7 

11 

56.75 

12.5 

10 

54.50 

11.2 

9 

52.25 

10.0 

8 

50.00 

8.7 

7 

47.75 

7.5 

6 

45.50 

62 

5 

43.25 

5.0 

4 

41.00 

3.7 

3 

38.75 

2.5 

2 

36.50 

1.2 

1 

34.25 

0.0 

0 

32.00 

1.2 

1 

29.75 

2.5 

2 

27.50 

3.7 

3 

25.25 

5.0 

4 

23.00 

6.2 

5 

20.75 

7.5 

6 

18.50 

8.7 

7 

16.25 

10.0 

8 

14.00 

11.2 

9 

11.75 

12.5 

10 

9.50 

13.7 

11 

7.25 


C. 

R. 

F. 

15.0 

12 

1.00 

16.2 

13 

2.75 

17.5 

14 

0.50 

18.7 

15 

1.75 

20.0 

16 

4.00 

21.2 

17 

6.25 

22.5 

18 

8.50 

23.7 

19 

10.75 

25.0 

20 

13.30 

26.2 

21 

15.25 

27.5 

22 

17.50 

28.7 

23 

19.75 

30.0 

24 

22.00 

31.2 

25 

24.25 

32.5 

26 

26.50 

33.7 

27 

28.75 

35.0 

28 

31.00 

36.2 

29 

33.25 

37.5 

30 

35.50 

38.7 

31 

37.75 

40.0 

32 

40.00 


In France the division of the geographical circle into 400 de¬ 
grees forms theoretically the basis of the metrical system, but 
this division has not come into general use. In geography, 
astronomy, and mathematics, the French, like all other nations, 
divide the circle into 300 degrees, reckoning the nautical mile 
as the GOlh part of a degree, and the league as a 20th. 






CUSTOMS DUTIES. 29 

DUTIES ON ARTICLES IMPORTED INTO ENGLAND. — 

Persons arriving in England, with goods in their baggage for 
private use, liable to the payment of duties, are allowed to 
leave them at the Custom-house, under the care of the officers, 
for six months, in order to give them an opportunity of taking 
them hack to the Continent without payment of duly; hut 
on taking them out of the warehouse, they are charged with a 
rent of 2d. per week for each package. If at the end of six 

months the goods are not taken hack, or the duties paid, they 

are sold to defray rent, duties, and other charges. 

Regulations as to Passengers’ Baggage : —As soon as all the 
baggage is landed, passengers having single packages are 
entitled to have them first examined; after which the remain¬ 
ing passengers are called in according to the list forwarded by 
the captain. Passengers must see that their names are properly 
inserted in the list. All merchandize brought with baggage is 
liable to seizure unless duly reported as such by the master of 
the vessel. — Caution: If any passenger or person, on being 
questioned by any officer of Her Majesty’s Customs, whether 
he or she has any foreign goods upon his or her person, or 
possession, deny the same, and any goods be discovered, such 
goods shall he forfeited, and such person shall forfeit treble 
the value of such goods.—British carriages, British plate, and 
foreign books, maps, or musical instruments, re-imported into 
Great Britain, allowed to pass free on declaration. Notice — 
False declarations subject parties to a fine of £100. 

Five per cent, must he added to the following duties:— 

£ s. d. 

Agates, or cornelians, free, but if set, for every 

£ 100 value. ..10 0 0 

Alabaster, the same duly as marble, per cwt. . . 0 3 0 

Amber, manufactures of, for every £100 value. . 10 0 0 

Armour. See Steel. 

Baskets of all sorts, for every £100 value. ... 10 0 0 

Beads, viz. arango, coral, crystal, glass, jet, and 

other beads, for every £100 value.10 0 0 

The duties are not charged on trifling quantities and actually personal 
effects of passengers. 

Bonnets. See Hats. 

Books printed prior to 1801, whether bound or 


unbound, the cwt. 100 

— printed in or since 1801.5 0 0 


-printed in or since 1801, if in a foreign living 

language, bound or unbound, the cwt.2 10 0 

Foreign books and maps having once paid duty, or been purchased in 
England, are delivered free, on a declaration to that etlect being made. 







INTRODUCTION. 


30 


Boots, shoes, and calashes, viz., women’s boots, 

shoes, and calashes, the dozen pairs.0 6 0 

-of silk, satin, jean, or other stuff, kid or other 


leather, the dozen pairs.0 4 6 

Boots (men’s) the dozen pairs.0 14 0 

-shoes (men’s).070 


-(children’s) and shoes are charged at two thirds 

of the above duties. 

Boxes of all sorts, excepting those made wholly or 

partly of glass, for every £100 value.10 0 0 

Brandy. See Spirits. 

Brass manufactures, for every £100 value. ... 10 0 0 

Brocade, of gold or silver, for every £100 value. . 10 0 0 

Bronze—All works of art made of bronze, free. 

-other manufactures of, for every £100 value. 10 0 0 

Cambrics and lawns, not exceeding 8 yds. in length 

and | of a yard in breadth, the piece. 0 2 6 

Cambric bordered handkerchiefs, the piece. ... 026 

Cambric or lawns converted into handkerchiefs are liable to the duty, 
even though they may have been used, unless the quantity is trifling. 

Cards, playing, per dozen packs.4 0 0 

This duly amounts to a prohibition. 

Carriages, foreign, for every £100 value.10 0 0 

All foreign carriages are liable to this duly, whether in use or not. 
British-built carriages are duty free, unless purchased abroad. 


Cameos, for every £100 value.5 0 0 

Casts of busts, statues, or figures, free. 

China or porcelain ware, plain, painted, gilt, or 

ornamented, for every £100 value.10 0 0 

Cheese, the cwt.050 

Chocolate, and cocoa paste, the lb.0 0 6 

Cigars, per lb.0 9 0 


Duties on cigars are received upon less than 3lb., but any greater 
quantity requires a petition to the Board of Customs to be admitted, and 
a small line is exacted in proportion to the quantity brought. 

Clocks, for every £100 value. 1000 

Clocks are prohibited, unless they have the maker’s name on the face 
and on the frame of the works, and are complete in cases or stands. 
Cologne-waler, each flask not more than a gallon. 0 1 0 

Confectionary of sugar, bonbons, etc., the lb. . . 0 0 6 

Coral, polished or unpolished, free. 

Cotton articles of manufactures, wholly or in part 


made up, for every £100 value.10 0 0 

This duty attaches on all articles of cotton, not being the wearing- 
apparel of passengers in use, and in trifling quantity. 

Crayons, for every £100 value. . io o o 
















CUSTOMS DUTIES. 3^ 

Crystal, cut, or manufactured, for every £100 value. 10 0 o 

Drawings. See Prints. 

Earthenware, for every £100 value.10 0 0 

Embroidery and needlework, for every £100 value. 20 0 0 


Reasonable quantities of wearing-apparel of this description are deli¬ 
vered duty free; but any large quantity of needle-work, whether worn 
or not, and all new worked caps, collars, tippets, pelerines, etc., pay duty. 


Enamel, for every £100 value.10 0 0 

Feathers, ostrich, undressed, per lb.0 0 1 

Feathers, ostrich, dressed.1 10 0 

Flower-roots, free. 


Flowers, artificial, silk, for every £ 100 value. . . 25 0 0 
Fossils and minerals, free. 

Frames of pictures, drawings, etc., for £ 100 value. 10 0 0 


Garnets, free, but if cut, per lb. 0150 

Gauze, thread, for every £100 value.10 0 0 

Ginger, preserved, per lb.. 006 

Glass, and glass manufactures, for every 100 lb. . 0 7 0 

-, painted, or paintings on glass, for every 100 lb. 0 7 0 

-•. See Crystal. 

Gloves, habit-gloves, the dozen pairs.0 3 6 

-, men’s gloves, the dozen pairs.0 3 6 

-, women’s long ditto, ditto.0 4 6 


Gloves for sale can only be imported in packages of 100 dozen pair; 
any quantity found in baggage, exceeding 6 dozen, requires a petition to 
the Board of Customs to be admitted : but quantities under 0 dozen are 
received at once, on payment of duty. 

Hair manufactures, for every £100 value.10 0 0 

Harp or lute-strings, silvered, for every £100 value. 10 0 0 
Hats, straw, Leghorn, etc., being new, and not 

exceeding 24 inches diameter, each.0 5 0 

Hats, ditto, exceeding 24 inches in diameter, each. . 0 10 0 

Horses, mares, or geldings, each.10 0 

British horses purchased abroad are liable to this duty. 

Jewels and precious stones, free. 

With an ad valorem duty on setting of 10 per cent. 

Lacquered or japanned ware, for every £100 value. 10 0 0 

Lace of thread, for every £100 value.10 0 0 

Lawns. See Cambrics. 

Lay figures, free. 

Liqueurs. See Spirits. 

Leather manufactures, for every £100 value. . . 10 0 0 

Linen—Articles of manufactures of linen, or of linen 
mixed with cotton, or with wool, wholly or in 

part made up, for every £100 value. 15 0 0 

This duty applies to damask and other table-cloths, made up; sheets 
and household linen of every sort, made up, whether worn or not. 


















INTRODUCTION. 


32 

Maps or charts, free. 

Marble in slabs, or otherwise manufactured, per cvvt. 0 3 0 
Medals of gold or silver, free. 

Minerals, free. 

Mirrors. See Glass. 

Mosaic work. See Slone. 

Models of cork or wood, free. 


Mules, each.0 2 6 

Musical instruments or boxes, old or new, for every 

£100 value. 1000 

Needlework. See Embroidery. 

Orange-flower water.0 0 1 

Painters’colours manufactured, for £ 100 value. . 10 0 0 

Paintings, on glass, for every 100 11). 0 7 0 

Paper-hangings, painted or stained paper or flock- 

paper, per square yard.0 0 2 

Other paper, per lb.0 0 1} 

Perfumery, the £100 value.10 0 0 

Pictures, each.0 10 

and farther, the square foot.0 10 

Pies, Perigord, game, and all sorts of French pies, 

for every £100 value. 1000 

Plate of gold or silver, for every £100 value. ..1000 
-, battered, free. 

Plums, dried, per cwt.17 6 

Precious stones, free. 

Prints and drawings, plain or coloured, each. . . 0 0 1 

-bound or sewn, the dozen.0 0 3 

-forming, bona tide, part of a book, free. 


Drawings executed by travellers, for private use, are free,on satisfac¬ 
tory proof. Tiic above duties are independent of the quality. 

Sculpture (statues), the same as Pictures. 

Seed, viz. garden seed, free. 

Shoes. See Boots. 

Silk, viz., articles of manufactures of silk, velvet, 
gauze, crape, ribbons, etc., wholly or in part made 

up, for every £100 value.15 0 0 

The above duly applies only to articles brought by passengers for 
private use. Any articles of dress, etc., although for private use, not 
accompanying parties to whom they belong, are liable to the fol¬ 


lowing duties : 

Silk turbans, or caps, each.. 036 

-hats, or bonnets, each.0 7 0 

-dresses, each.1 10 o 


Or at the option of the oflicers of the customs, for 
every £100 value. 


15 0 0 


















CUSTOMS DUTIES. 33 

Skins and furs, viz., any article manufactured of 

skins or furs, for every £100.10 o o 

Snuff, per lb. o G 0 

Willi same restriction as for cigars. 

Spa ware, for every £100 value.10 0 0 


This ware is the same as English Tunbridge ware. 
Specimens of minerals, fossils, or ores, free. 
Specimens of natural history, stuffed birds and ani¬ 


mals, shells, and live animals, free. 

Spirits, not sweetened, the gallon.0 15 0 

-, sweetened, cordials or strong waters, and 

liqueurs, the gallon.10 0 


Spirits, remains of passengers’stores, unexpended on the voyage, may 
he admitted: hut the duties are not to he charged on any quantity less 
than a pint of ordinary drinkable spirits; or half a pint of eau de 
Cologne, or other cordial water, or any medicated or perfumed spirits or 
liqueurs, when imported in the baggage of passengers for private use. 
Steel or iron manufactures, armour, etc., for every 

£100 value.10 0 0 

Stone, sculptured or mosaic work, per cwt. ... 030 

Small mosaics are liable to a duty of 20/. per cent. 

Succades, and all preserved sweetmeats, per lb. . 0 0 G 


Sugar, refined, is. Gd. per lb., or per cwt. ... 330 

Sulphur impressions, free. 

Telescopes, free. 

Tobacco unmanufactured, per lb.0 3 0 

-snuff, per lb.0 G o 

-cigars.090 

Tobacco-pipes, of clay or porcelain, for £100 value. 10 0 0 

-, wood, meerschaum, etc., ditto.10 0 0 

Toys, for every £100 value.10 0 0 

This includes, besides children’s toys, a variety of trifling ornaments. 
Truffles, the lb.0 10 


But preserved truffles, imported in bottles, pay 20 per cent, in addi¬ 
tion to the duties on the bottles, as common green glass. 

Turbans. See Silk. 

Turnery, for every £ 100 value.. 10 0 0 

Vases, ancient, not stone or marble, free. 

Velvets. See Silks. 

Wares, goods, and merchandise, wholly or in part 
manufactured, such as are usually imported by 
passengers, and are not particularly mentioned in 

this table, for every £100 value.10 0 0 

This includes a great variety of articles; among others, bracelets, 
buckles, combs, chains for the neck, car-rings, brooches, and other arti¬ 
cles of jewellery, being new; articles of or-molu, household furniture, 
and other goods (not being wearing-apparel) whether old or new. 















34 INTRODUCTION. 

Wares, goods, and merchandise, not wholly or in 
part manufactured, usually imported by travellers, 
and not mentioned in this table, for £100 value. . 5 0 0 

This applies to articles in the raw state, which have not undergone 
any process of manufacture. Under this head of duty, game, poultry, 
wiid fowl, etc., are also charged. 

Watches of all sorts, for every £100 value. ... 10 0 0 

■Watches and fowling-pieces, whether new or old, and although 
forming part of passengers’ baggage, must he regularly entered, and 
charged with duly. But one pair of pistols, if old and used, brought by 
passengers in their baggage, will be delivered duty free. 

Water, mineral, free. 

Wine of all sorts, the gallon.0 5 6 

and is. 4d. per gal. in addition for glass hollies. 

Woollens, viz. manufactures of wool, not goat’s wool, 
or of wool mixed with cotton, for £100 value. . 10 0 0 

This includes ladies’ merinos and other sorts of cloth. 

DUTIES on Articles imported from England into France. — 
Extracted from the government official tariff:— 

[Ten per cent, is to he added, and is claimed, in addition to 
the duties specified. Plate and jewellery for the use of tra¬ 
vellers, free, if not exceeding the weight of 5 hectogrammes. 
Clothes and linen, having been worn, free, if not considered 
more than needful for the passengers. Parties going to reside 
in France, and wishing to take their furniture, linen, plate, etc., 
must apply to the Director-General, at Paris, sending a state¬ 
ment of the articles, and, if they can he admitted, generally 
pay 15 per cent, on the value; if a piano forms part, the duty 
on it is considerably reduced. Various articles which were 
lately absolutely prohibited, even when they made a part of 
passengers’ baggage, are now admitted, not in an obligatory 
but discretionary way, and are charged with a duty of 30 or 
rather 33 per cent., the deciine (the tenth) included. Those 
articles consist of all sorts of wearing-apparel. The same favour 
is extended to portions, and sometimes to whole pieces which 
have not or have scarcely been made up. In those cases, the 
condition and the supposed intentions of such passengers as 
may have brought with them great or small supplies of the 
same are taken into consideration. According to the Customs 
regulations, every thing that is new, or has not been used, 
either made or not made up, must be declared before the exa¬ 
mination of the baggage lakes place, under penalties of seizure 
and fine. But the officers generally tax those things not duly 
declared, or give them back to the owners for re-exportation.] 
Beer, ale, or porter, 6 fr. (5s.) the hectolitre (about 100 bottles). 
Books, foreign, in dead or living languages, 10 fr. (8s.) per 
100 kils. (2001b.) 



CUSTOMS DUTIES. 3g 

Books, in French, printed abroad, 100 fr. (£4) per 100 kils 
Bools and shoes, prohibited. 

Boxes, Spa work, 200 fr. (£8) per lOOkils. (2001b.) 

“ '» while wood, 15 per cent, on value. 

Bronze, manufactured, prohibited. 

Calicoes, prohibited. 

Cards, prohibited. 

Ca i>er l 100 r ki| S " b i e w n tO v!n Sl1 ' luti f\’ Varyin S from 500 to 600 fr. 
n.n, K° cl 1 ? 0 |,er cwL > according to substance and 

quality. Some sorts are prohibited. 

Cairia 0 es. One-third ol the value of a private carriage to be 
deposited on landing, and three-fourths of this returned if 
re exported within 3 years. [The real value is never given 1 
Cheese, 15 fr. (12s.) per 100 kils. & J 

Clocks, prohibited. 

Cotton manufactures, ditto. 

Diamonds, rough, 50 c. (4 >/, d.) per hectogramme, (3 •/, oz.) 

, cut, 1 fr. (9 ‘/a d.) per ditto. 

Earthenware, common, 49 fr. per 1000 kils 
Embroidery, prohibited. 

Engravings, lithographed prints, maps, charts, etc., 300 fr. per 
100 kils.; or £6 per cwt. 

Frames, (picture, etc.) 15 per cent. 

Furniture of all sorts, 15 per cent. 

Glass, for domestic use, prohibited. 

Gloves, prohibited. 


Horses, 25 fr. (£1) 

-Colls, 15 fr. (12s.) 

Hardware, generally prohibited. 

Ink, printing or writing, 60 fr. per 100 kils.; or £1 4s. per cwt. 
Jewels, set in gold, 20 fr. (16s.) per hectogramme. 

-» ditto in silver, 10 fr. (8s.) ditto. 

Journals and periodical printed sheets, when imported for the 
trade, in quantities, same rate as books. 

Lace, cotton or linen, worked with the hand, 5 per cent. 
Lace, silk, 15 per cent. 


Lacquered ware, generally prohibited. 

Leather manufactures, prohibited. 

Linen, for personal or household use, free, unless there be a 
large quantity; in such case a permit must be obtained from 
the Director of the Customs. 

Liquors ( including mock champagne and other factitious 

wines), 100fr. to 200fr. (£4 to £8) per hectolitre (about 100 
bottles.) 

Musical instruments, viz. : - flutes, 75 c. (6d.) ; violins, gui¬ 
tars, etc., 3 fr. (2s. 6d.); harps, 36 fr* (£1 8s. 10d.); piano- 






INTRODUCTION. 


36 

fortes, square, 300 fr. (£12), grand, 400 fr. (£10); church or¬ 
gans, 400 fr. (£16). 

Paper, white or ruled for music, 150 fr. (£0) per 100 kils. 
Pictures and drawings, 1 per cent, on value, and 15 per cent, 
on the frames. 

Plate, new or used, in gold or gilt, or in silver, 11 fr. (8s. Od.) 
per kilogramme, exclusive of 33 fr. stamp-duty at the bu¬ 
reau de garantie. The whole of this duty is reimbursed if 
the plate is re-exported within three years. 

Plated ware, prohibited. 

Porcelain, common, of one colour, and without gold or orna¬ 
ments, 164 fr. (£6 11s.) per 100 kils. (200 lb.) 

-, fine, 327 fr. (£13 Is.) per ditto. 

-, with gold ornaments, prohibited. 

Silk goods, all silk, plain, 16 fr. (12s. lOd.) per kil. (about 21b.) 

-, figured, or brocaded, 19 fr. (15s. 2d.) per ditto. 

-, ditto, with gold andsilver, 31 fr. (£1 4s. lOd.) per ditto. 

-, imitation, brocaded, prohibited. 

-, mixed with thread, 13 fr. (10s. 5d.) per ditto. 

-, mixed with gold and silver, 17 fr. (13s. 7d.) per ditto. 

Skins, prepared, generally prohibited. 

Steam engines, for machinery, 15 per cent. 

-, for locomotives, 15 per cent. 

-, for ships, 30 per cent. 

Sticks and canes, from India, 80 fr. (£3 4s.) per 100 kils. (200 lb.) 

-, from other places, 168 fr. (£6 8s.) per ditto. 

Tea, from China, 1 fr. 50 c. (Is. 3d.) per kil. (2 lb.) 

-, from the Baltic and Black Sea, 2 fr. 50 c. 

-, from other places, 5 fr. (4s.) per ditto. 

Telescopes, 30 per cent. 

Toys, 80 fr. (£3 4s.) per 100 kils. (200 lb.) 

Wine, ordinary, by sea, including port, 35 fr. (£1 8s.) per hec¬ 
tolitre, (about 100 bottles.) 

-, sherry, malaga, etc., 100 fr. (£4) per ditto. 

Woollens, generally prohibited. 



GEOGRAPHICAL SITUATION AND CLIMATE OF PARIS. 

POPULATION. 

PARIS is situated in 48° 50' 14" north latitude, and 2° 28' 15" 
east longitude from Greenwich, or 20° 11' from the meridian of 
Ferro. The longest day in this capital is therefore 16 hours 
6 minutes, and the shortest 8 hours 10 minutes. The distance 
of Paris from the principal towns of Europe and France is■ 
















CLIMATE AND GEOLOGICAL FORMATIONS. 


37 


From Miles. Leagues. 

Amsterdam. ... 298 123 

Berlin. 593 245 

Bordeaux. 356 147 

Brussels. 189 78 

Calais. 162 67 

Constantinople. . 1574 650 

Copenhagen . . . 659 272 

Dresden. 630 260 

Dunkirk. 165 68 

Francfort. 339 140 

Geneva.315 130 

Hamburg. 535 221 

Lisbon. 1104 456 


From Miles. Leagues. 

London. 254 105 

Lyons. 288 119 

Madrid. 775 320 

Marseilles. 504 208 

Milan.518 214 

Munich. 460 190 

Naples. 1148 474 

Borne. 925 382 

Stockholm. . . . 1141 471 

St. Petersburg . . 1405 580 

Sluttgardt. 358 148 

Venice. 593 245 

Vienna. 678 280 


The circumference of Paris is 23,755 metres, or 25,979 yards; 
and its area contains 34,596,000 square metres, or 40,378,923 
square yards. Its meridian from north to south is 5,505 metres, 
or 6,020 yards; and the greatest perpendicular to its meridian 
from east to west is 7,807 metres, or 8,538 yards. The greatest 
mean heat is 27° Reaumur, though in 1802 it rose to 29 y 2 °. The 
mean degree of cold is 7° below zero; but in 1795 the thermo¬ 
meter fell to 17 y 2 ° below freezing point or zero. The mean 
temperature is 10° above zero. The greatest height of the ba¬ 
rometer is 28 y 2 inches, the least 27 ‘/ 4 inches, aqd the mean 
28 inches. The average quantity of rain per annum is 20 '/ 4 
cubic inches per square inch. The prevailing winds are S. W. 
and N.E. The climate is, however, variable, and the winters 
are sometimes severe; snow does not lie long, and fogs are not 
frequent; while the general tendency of the climate is not un¬ 
favourable to health. The city lies in the midst of a vast plain, 
65 metres above the level of the sea, through which the Seine 
winds, and which comprises that series of geological forma¬ 
tions to which the capital has given its name. The Paris basin, 
which has the great chalk formation for its lowest stratum 
exposed by natural denudations, comprises the following geolo¬ 
gical beds in an ascending order :—plastic clay; marine lime¬ 
stone ( calcaire grossier, building-stone); siliceous limestone 
(freshwater); gypsous strata alternating with marls, full of 
fossil remains and freshwater shells; sands; mill-stone beds; 
and gravel. Two of the strata of the general series are famous 
in commerce—one for furnishing the stone of which Paris is 
built, the other for the fine gypsum, from which the Plaster 
of Paris is made. (1) The surface of this plain is anything but 
barren, though not remarkable for an exuberant fertility; the 

(l) The details of the geological structure of that part of France in which 
Paris is situated have been fully described by the illustrious Cuvier, 
and by G. Cuvier and Brongniart, in their elaborate work on that subject. 

4 
























38 INTRODUCTION. 

manure, however, furnished by the capital supplies any natural 
deficiency of the soil, and the lighter species of grain, vege¬ 
tables, fruit trees, and vines, flourish here in perfection. (1) 

RIVERS.—The Seine, which traverses the capital from south¬ 
east to north-west, rises in the forest of Chanceaux, 2 leagues 
from St. Seine, in the department of the Cdte-d’Or. It receives, 
besides smaller streams, the waters of the Yonne, the Aube, and 
the Marne, before it enters Paris; and beyond it after collect¬ 
ing the tributary streams of the Oise, the Eure, and other smaller 
rivers, falls into the ocean between Havre and HOnfleur. The 
direct distance from its source to its mouth is 70 leagues; and 
the length of its course, in the interior of Paris, is about 2 
leagues. Its breadth at the Pont d’Austerlitz is about 1G6 metres, 
at the Pont Neuf 263 metres, and at the Pont d’lena 136 metres. 
The mean velocity of the water is 20 inches in a second. There 
is a great difference in the level of Hie water in summer and 
winter: in the former season it is very low, the bottom appears 
in many places, and in some it is often fordable; during the 
latter it rises high, and flows with much impetuosity. When 
the river rises more than 6 metres, about 18 feet, above its bed, 
parts of the town and adjacent country are liable to be inundated. 

The Seine communicates with the Loire by the canals of 
Rriare and Orleans; With the Saonebythe canal deBourgogne; 
and with the Somme and the Scheldt by the canal of St. Quentin! 
The Seine, which receives a considerable accession to its waters 
by the junction of the Marne at Charenton, is navigable for 
barges of large burthen as far as Paris, and even above; but 
they are obliged to be built With flat bottoms, and of a peculiar 
form* to suit the nature of the stream. The navigation is open 
at all times, except when the waters are unusually low or high, 
or when the thermometer falls to 10° below zero, at which tem¬ 
perature the river is frozen. In its course through Paris the Seine 
now forms two islands. The lie St. Louis, about 1,800 feet long, 
and which has been built on since the time of Louis XIII. The 
other was the original seal of Paris, and is still called the He de 
la Cite; it formerly terminated at the rue de Harlay, but its 
prolongation was effected in the reign of Henry IV.,’ by an¬ 
nexing to it two small islands. 

The little stream of the Bievre, or the Gobelins, as it is some¬ 
times called, rises between Boiiriers and Guyencouit, near Ver- 

(i) The last official returns of the area, cultivation, etc., of the depart¬ 
ment of the Seine areds follows .—area, 24 square leagues. Arable land 
29,295 hefctarfes, or 72,558 abres; tneadofr land, l,543 hectares, or 3 su 
acres ; vineyards, 2,784 hectares, or 4,876 acres ; woods, 1,354 hectares 
or 3,344 acres; wastelands, 249 hectares, or 615 acres; roads and public 
ways, 2,649 hectares, or 6,543 acres; forest land, 2,293 hectares, or 5 663 
acres; houses,47,804 ; mills, 77;manufactories,450; proprietors,67,918. 


POPULATION OF PARIS. 39 

sanies and, after a course of about 8 leagues, falls into the 
Seme above the Jardin des Plantes : it is not navigable nor is 
its water wholesome to drink. Several mills are worked by it 
and it is excellent for dyeing and tanning; it also serves as a 
city drain, and has lately had its bed lined with masonry 
POPULATION OF PARIS.-ln 1313 the population of'paris 
amounted to 60,000 souls; in 1710 it had increased to 490 000 • 
in 1798 to 640,000; in 1802 (war) to 672,000; in 1808 it had fallen 
to 600,000; and in 1816 to 680,000; hut in 1817 (peace) it had 
lisen to 714,696; in 1836 to 909,126; in 1841 to 935,261 ; in 1846 
(last census) to 1,053,897. The whole department of the Seine 
contains 1,364,467 souls, and including strangers from the depart¬ 
ments and foreigners the number amounts to about 1,500,000. 
I he total number of births in the capital for 1846 was 29 923- 
deaths, 26,028; marriages, 8,962; still-born children, 2,421 Of 
the births 15,202 were males, and 14,721 females; 4,886 took 
place in hospitals, etc., and 9,830 were illegitimate, of which 
2,189 were recognised by their parents. Of the deaths 13 203 
wei e males, and 12,825 females; 15,658 died at their own homes 
8,580 m civil hospitals, 1,310 in military hospitals, and 173 in 
prisons. In the department the number of births in 1844 was 
41,282; deaths 34,388; and marriages 12,307. The last return 
ot the population of the twelve arrondissements was as fol¬ 
lows: 1st arrondissement, 92,246; 2d, 93,383; 3d, 59,796: 4th 
46,430; 5th, 85,338; 6th, 9S,315; 7th, 66,544; 8th, 95,532; 9th, 
47,080; 10th, 98,137; 11th, 60,580; 12th, 91,880, (1) 

(l) The total population of Franee at the commencement of the pre¬ 
sent century was 27,000,000 ; in 1820 it was 30,451,187 ; in 1831, 32,560 934- 
in 18 o 6 , 33,340,190; in 1841,34,230,178;and in 1846 (last census)35,40<M86* 
showing an increase in four years of 1 ,170,308. The increase in forty 
years has therefore been 9,000,000. The following is the aggregate average .- 

897,889 

69,417 

967,306 

805,950 

161,356 
_ 249,164 

If the relations of births and deaths to the whole population be consi¬ 
dered as nearly stationary, then 33.l will give the number of years which 
form the mean duration of life. Before the great Revolution in France, 
the statistical tables then published assigned only 28.75 years as the 
average duration of life, and this increase of 3 years is to be attributed 
to the introduction of vaccination, and to increased comforts among 
the lower classes. Much other curious information upon this subject 
is to be found in the “ Annuaire du Bureau des Longitudes.” 


Births. < 

Legitimate.... 

Illegitimate... 

Legitimate and 
illegitimate. . ' 
( Males. 

’ Boys.... 463,020 
; Girls ... 434,869 
Boys.... 35,431 
Girls... 33,986 
Boys.. .. 498,451 
Girls ... 468,855 

JLHd Ills. 

Females. 


Increase of 

Bovs. no ki 

Population. 

Girls. 


Marriages.... 













INTRODUCTION. 


40 

Of the population of Paris it has been calculated that nearly 
one-half are working people, the rest being occupied in some 
trade or profession, or living upon their income. There are 
about 80,000 servants, and 70,000 paupers. Nearly 15,000 pa¬ 
tients are always in the hospitals, and about four limes that 
number pass through them in the course of the year. (1) The 
numbers of foundling children supported by the slate, and of 
old and infirm persons incapable of work, are equal, being in 
each case about 20,000. The population of the prisons, though 
it varies at different periods, is generally nearly 5,000. 

It has been remarked that families constantly residing in Paris 
soon become extinct. The effects of this mortality are observ¬ 
ed to be more active upon males than females. 


GOVERNMENT, CIVIL, MILITARY, AND JUDICIAL. 

According to the Charter of 1830, the government of France 
is composed of three powers: 1. The King, governing by his 
ministers, and in whose name all justice is administered; 2. The 
Chamber of Peers, whose number, exclusive of the four Princes 
of the blood (who sit there by right of birth), at present 
300, is unlimited. It is no longer hereditary, and the members, 
nominated by the King, can enter the Chamber at 25, and vole 
at 30 years of age. The Chancellor of France, named by the 
King, is president. Besides their political attributions, the 
Peers take cognizance, as a court of justice, of all crimes of high 
treason, etc. The sittings take place at the Luxembourg, and 
are public; 3. The Chamber of Deputies, the number of whom 
is 459, chosen by the electoral colleges of eacli department 
for 5 years. (2) To be eligible as a deputy a person must be a 
native of France, 30 years of age, and must pay 500 francs an¬ 
nually in direct taxes. The electors must be 25 years of age, 
and pay two hundred francs in direct taxes. The president is 
named by the Chamber. The sittings are public, and held at 
the Palais Bourbon. The two Chambers must be convoked once 
a-yeai at least, and at the same time: they can be prorogued 
and the Chamber of Deputies dissolved, at the pleasure of the 

D) According to a statistical account it appears that from 1827 to 
1843 there were 101 ,739 accidental deaths, and 99,120 suicides in France 
The annual average of each of these is 5,984 for the lirst, and 5,831 for 
the second. The annual amount of the last, however, has increased in 
a lamentable proportion. In 1827 it was 1,562; in 1830 , 1,756 - in 1834 
2,078; ill 1837, 2,443; in 1840, 2,752; and in 1843, 3,020. 

( 2 ) Ot the deputies, at least 200 are either salaried, or hold offices 
under government. 



COUNCILS AND MINISTRY. 

King. In case of dissolution, a new Chamber must be elected 
and convoked within three months. (1) 

COUNCIL OF STATE.—The number of Councillors, Masters 
of Requests, and Auditors, composing this council, is indefinite- 
they are all nominated by the King, and are divided into six 

committees—of Litigation, of Legislative Administration, of War 

and Marine, of the Interior and of Public Education, of Com¬ 
merce, Agriculture, and Public Works, of Finance. The com¬ 
mittee of War and Marine meets at the Ministries of War and 
Marine; the Finance committee at the Ministry of Finance; all 
the others at the Hotel du Conseil d’Etat, Quai d’Orsay. The 
council is presided by the King, or the President of the Council 
of Ministers, or the Keeper of the Seals. The Ministers and the 
Directors of Administrations have a deliberative voice in it. All 
bills and ordonnances to be submitted by government to the 
legislature are discussed in committees of this council, whose 
reports are read in general assembly, to which the public have 
access. The Council of State meets at the Palais du Quai d’Orsay. 

COUNCIL OF MINISTERS.—This council, generally about 10 
in number, is composed of the heads of the different depart¬ 
ments in the state, who assemble under the presidency of the 
King, the President of the Council, or any one of their own 
body. They deliberate on administrative legislation, on all 
that concerns the general internal and external policy, the 
safety of the throne and kingdom, and the maintenance of the 
royal authority. All royal ordonnances must be countersigned 
by one or more of the Ministers : they are responsible for all 
acts of the King, and may be impeached by the Chamber of 
Deputies, but must be tried by the Chamber of Peers. 

MINISTER FOR FOREIGN AFFAIRS.—His department em¬ 
braces correspondence with foreign powers, all political and 
commercial treaties, conventions, etc. The offices for pass¬ 
ports, etc., 10, rue Neuve des Capucines, are open daily from 
11 to 4. Residence, rue Neuve des Capucines, No. 20. A new 
hotel for this department is in course of construction adjoin¬ 
ing the Chamber of Deputies. 

MINISTER OF WAR.—The duties of this Minister comprehend 
all that relates to the movements, discipline, and maintenance 
of the army, and all military manufactories and establishments. 
The government of Algiers is also under his jurisdiction. Resi¬ 
dence and office, 86, rue St. Dominique. 

MINISTER OF THE MARINE AND THE COLONIES.—This Mi¬ 
nister is charged with the superintendence of the navy, the 

(t) A member cannot be arrested for debt during the session, or the 
six weeks which precede or follow it; or on a criminal charge unless 
taken in the act), without the sanction of the Chamber. 


42 INTRODUCTION. 

dock-yards, ports, and all that relates to the naval service of 
the country and its colonial government. Residence and office, 
2, rue Royale. To this department is attached a valuable li¬ 
brary of charts, maps, and plans, kept at 13, rue de l’Universitd, 

MINISTER OF FINANCE.—Under the direction of this Minis¬ 
ter are placed the taxes, national debt, the sinking fund, the 
customs, post-office, mint, forests, extraordinary domains, and 
establishments which yield a product to the royal treasury, re¬ 
specting all which information may be had at the Bureau des 
Renseignements, from 2 to 4, every day except Sundays and 
fete days. The residence and offices are at 48, rue de Rivoli. 

MINISTER OF AGRICULTURE AND COMMERCE.—This Mi¬ 
nister takes cognizance of all laws and regulations affecting the 
customs and commerce, trading companies, patents, weights 
and»measures, agriculture, fairs, markets, veterinary establish¬ 
ments, etc. Residence and offices, 26, rue de Varennes. 

MINISTER OF THE INTERIOR.—The office of this Minister is 
to correspond with the prefects, and all officers attached to the 
internal government of the kingdom, to execute the laws of 
elections, to superintend the police, to attend to the organiza¬ 
tion of the national and municipal guards, to watch over the 
offences of the press, the theatres, etc.; also the direction of 
all institutions relating to the fine arts, etc. His residence and 
offices are at 101, rue de Grenelle St. Germain. 

MINISTER OF PUBLIC WORKS.—The title of this lately- 
created department is sufficiently descriptive; it comprises the 
supervision of the ponts et chaussees (bridges and roads), rail¬ 
ways, mines, etc., and academies therewith connected,etc.,etc. 
Residence and offices, 58, rue St. Dominique. 

MINISTER OF JUSTICE AND PUBLIC WORSHIP, who also 
takes the title ofKeeper of the Seals.—To this Minister all judges, 
law officers, crown lawyers, notaries, etc.,are subordinate. Let¬ 
ters of pardon, naturalization, etc., are granted by him. He re¬ 
gulates every thing concerning public worship, the expenses of 
the clergy, ecclesiastical edifices, etc.; the direction of the royal 
printing-office also falls within his jurisdiction. His residence 
is 13, Place Vendome; offices, 22, rue Neuve du Luxembourg. 

MINISTER OF PUBLIC INSTRUCTION.—This Minister super¬ 
intends the University of France, colleges, schools, etc. The 
* Institute, all scientific and literary societies, all public libraries 
and museums, all medical establishments, etc., are also under 
his administration. He is also President of the Committee for 
publishing whatever relates to the monuments, arts, or history 
of France. His residence is at 116, rue de Crenelle St. Germain. 

All the ministers have stated hours for public business, official 
receptions, etc., which may be known at their bureaux. The 


CIVIL LIST. 


43 


number of persons employed in their several offices amounts to 
2,380, receiving a sum of 0,500,000 fr. annually. Every mi¬ 
nistry possesses an extensive library, relating to its particular 
department. 


BUDGET.—To this account of the functions of the different 
ministers may be added the amount of the budget for 1847 : — 
The estimated expenses amount to 1,458,723,253 fr., (l) and 
include the War Department, 304,816,770 fr.; Public In¬ 
struction, 17,938,983 fr.; Interior, 113,196,413 fr.; Commerce 
and Agriculture, 14,281,490 fr.; Travaux Publics, 02,418,900 fr.; 
Finance, 17,591,184 francs; Marine, 118,100,819 fr.; Justice, 
20,725, S95fr.; Public Worship, 38,708,550 fr.; and Foreign Affairs., 
8,854,422 fr.—The estimated receipts amount to 1,357,241,180 fr. 


PUBLIC DEBT.—The following is the last published statement 
of the funded public debt of France : — 


5 per cent. 
4 '/ 2 » 

4 » 

3 


109,000 holders 140,775,408 interest 
902 » 1,020,000 

5,152 » 24,507,375 

51,362 » 65,150,542 


166,410 239,459,925 

But from new loans made since this official account was 
published, the debt, according to the budget of 1847, was 
394,000,000 fr. 

TELEGRAPHS.—-The central station is at the Ministry of the 
Interior. There are two others on the towers of the church of 
St. Sulpice, and one on the church of St. Eustache. At the cen¬ 
tral station it is possible to receive a communication from Calais 
in three minutes, by aline of 27 telegraphs; from Lille in 2, 
by 22 ; from Strasburg in 6, by 40; from Lyons in 8, by 50, and 
onward, to the farthest limit on the Italian side, in less than 
15 minutes; from Brest, ins minutes, by 80 telegraphs. Common 
telegraphs are however being superseded by electrical ones 
along the railway lines, and the visitor may see the commu¬ 
nicating wires running from the Ministry ot the Interior along 
the Esplanade des Invalides, and thence crossing the Seine. 

CIVIL LIST.—Independent of the different government ad¬ 
ministrations, there are those ot the civil list and of the estates 
of the royal family.— Intendance Gendrale de la Liste Civile, 9, 
Place Vendom e.—Administration G morale du Domains Drive 
du Roi, 210, rue St. Honore.— Administration des Biens du 
Due d'Aumale , 69, rue de Crenelle St. Germain. 

KOVAL HOUSEHOLDS.— Their arrangement is as follows 


(l) Ttiis sum is equivalent to L. 58,348,930. 




44 INTRODUCTION. 

The King has 15 aides-de-camp, 11 officiers d’ordonnance, 1 se¬ 
cretary, 1 undersecretary, l ecuyer commandant, and 2ecuyers. 
—The Queen has 1 almoner, 1 lady of honour, 10 ladies, 1 che¬ 
valier d’honneur, 1 secretary, and 1 librarian.—The Duchesse 
d’OrUans has 1 lady of honour, 3 ladies, 1 lady reader, 1 cheva¬ 
lier d’honneur, 2 deputy chevaliers d’honneur, 1 secretary, 2 
physicians in ordinary, and 1 director of music.—The Comte de 
Paris has 1 governor, l tutor, 4 aides-de-camp, 1 officier d’or- 
donnance, 1 ecuyer, l secretary, 1 physician, 1 surgeon.—The 
Due de Nemours has 2 aides-de-camp, 2 officiers d’ordonnance, 
1 secretary.—The Prince de Joinville, the Due d’Aumale, and 
the Due de Montpensier have each 1 aide-de-camp, 1 olficier d’or¬ 
donnance, 1 secretary.— The Duchesse de Nemours, th ePrincesse 
de Joinville, the Duchesse d’Aumale, and the Duchesse de Mont¬ 
pensier have each 1 lady, and 1 lady reader.—The Princesse 
Adelaide d’Orleans has 1 lady of honour, 3 ladies, 1 chevalier 
d’honneur, 1 secretary, and 1 chef du secretariat. A numerous 
list of medical officers, military commandants of palaces, and 
other functionaries, are also attached to the court. 

ORDRE ROYAL DE LA LEGION D’HONNEUR.—The Legion 
of Honour was instituted by a law of 29 Floreal, an 10 (1802), 
for the recompense of civil and military merit, as well as length 
of public service. The King is chief and grand master of the 
order, which is entrusted for its administration to a grand chan¬ 
cellor, and is composed of chevaliers, officers, commanders, 
grand officers, and grand crosses. The members are nomi¬ 
nated for life, but lose their privileges by any act that causes 
the suspension or abolition of their rights as French citizens. 
Ry the last official statement the total number of members 
was 49,386, viz. 84 grand crosses, 212 grand officers, 891 com¬ 
manders, 4969 officers, and 43,230 chevaliers. The princes of 
the royal family, or of the blood, and all foreigners upon 
whom the king bestows the order, are not included in these 
numbers. Foreigners are only admitted, not received, into 
the order, and do not take the oaths. The decorations, which 
are commonly worn at the button-hole of the left breast, vary 
according to the different ranks. Every member of the Legion 
of Honour created before 1814, or who is a sub-officer or sol¬ 
dier, is entitled to a pension of 250 fr. per annum; but not 
the others. Among the foreign members of the order are 35 
crowned heads and princes of royal blood. Attached to the 
Legion of Honour are the establishments for the education of 
the daughters, nieces, and sisters of the members, an account 
of which will be found under the head of Public Institutions. 
The grand chancellor resides in the hotel of the order, in 
the rue de Lille, where the offices of his administration are 


MILITARY GOVERNMENT. 45 

situated. The cost to the Slate of the Legion of Honour 
is 7,000,000 fr. a-year. 

NAVAL ESTABLISHMENT.—France possessed in 1846, by 
official statements, 268 sailing vessels, viz., 46 ships of the line, 
49 frigates, 38 corvettes, 47 brigs, 52 smaller vessels, and 36 
transport ships. Of these, 23 vessels of the line, 18 frigates, 
and 3 corvettes were in the docks. The war-steamers were 
74; viz., 9 frigates, amounting together to 3570 horse power, 
17 corvettes, amounting together to 4240 horse power, and 
48 smaller steamers, of less than 160 horse power each. Only 
5 frigates, 10 corvettes, and 40 of the smaller were afloat. The 
naval forces were understood to amount to 112,462 men; 
but the number on active service were no more than 56,000 men, 
including 30,766 marines. 

MILITARY GOVERNMENT.—The regular army of France was 
composed in Jan. 1847 of 388,496 men, viz., 97,760 stationed in 
Algeria, and 280,736 in France, of which 14,775 gendarmery, 
83,416 cavalry, and 26,976 artillery. The whole cost to the 
country is put down in the budget at 348,000,000 fr. The gar¬ 
rison of Paris, and its immediate neighbourhood, has been for 
some years past composed of about 50,000 men.— General Staff 
of the First Division, 1 , rue de Lille. Staff ofthe Garrison of Paris, 
7, Place Vendome. Court Martial , 37, rue du Gherche-Midi. 

National Guard.— The national guard of the department of 
the Seine consists of 12 legions of infantry for the 12 arrondisse- 
ments of Paris, 4 legions for the banlieue ; 1 legion of cavalry 
for Paris, and 2 squadrons for the 1st and 2nd, and half a squa¬ 
dron for the 3rd, ofthe banlieue. The total force ofthe na¬ 
tional guard of Paris, though variable, may be slated at fully 
56,000 men. Among the officers (who are elected every live 
years) there are 536 captains, 558 lieutenants, and 554 sub¬ 
lieutenants. The charge to the city for keeping up guard¬ 
houses, paying incidental expenses of staff, musicians, clerks, 
and miscellaneous charges connected with this branch of the 
service, amount to 759,858 fr. The effective force ofthe national 
guard of the banlieue exceeds 20,000. Each legion of infantry 
of Paris is composed of 4 battalions; those of the banlieue, two 
of 9, one of 6, and one of 7 battalions; the legion of cavalry, 
called the 13th, consists of 3 squadrons. The artillery of the 
national guard, which was disbanded in 1832, has not been re¬ 
organised. The etat-major general is on the Place du Carrousel. 

Municipal Guards. —This force, under the orders of the Pre¬ 
fect of Police, consists of 3244 men and officers, of whom 692 
are cavalry. Their barracks are to be seen in different parts 
of Paris. This fine corps, composed of picked men, and about 
to he augmented, has been found most efficient in times of 


INTRODUCTION. 


46 

trouble, in maintaining or restoring the public tranquillity. 

Sapeurs-Pompiers. —The battalions of sapeurs-pom piers, or 
soldier firemen, consist of 829 men and officers, of whom a 
large portion are on duty every evening at the theatres, etc., 
with a strong reserve remaining in t he guard-houses of the diffe¬ 
rent arrondissemenls, with a great number of fire-engines, etc. 
The corps is under the orders of the Prefect of Police. (1) 

FORTIFICATIONS OF PARIS.—By a law passed in 1841, a 
sum of 140 millions of francs was granted by the Chambers for 
raising a double line of defence round the capital. At various 
times projects of fortifying Paris have been entertained since 
the Revolution of 1789. Napoleon had one in view in the latter 
years of his reign, and while at St. Helena ordered a memorial 
to be drawn up of his intentions in this respect. On the approach 
of the allied armies in 1814 and 1815, a few works were hastily 
thrown up, which presented some show of resistance to their 
progress. Since the last Revolution, especially in 1832-34, the 
matter had been seriously debated in the legislature; but it 
was reserved for M. Thiers, and those who raised the war 
alarm in 1840, to realize such projects to their fullest extent. 
It forms no part of our duty to discuss the expediency of for¬ 
tifying the capital; our duty is simply to describe what exists, 
or will yet exist. They form—1. A continuous enclosure ( en¬ 
ceinte continue ), embracing the two banks of the Seine, to be 
bastioned and terraced, with 10 metres (about 33 feet English) 
of encampment faced with masonry ( escarpe revefue). 2. Of 
outer works, with casemates. The latter ( les forts detaches ) 
are 17 in number, besides several detached trenches. The ge¬ 
neral plan of the enceinte continue presents 94 angular faces 
{fronts), each of the medium length of 355 metres (about 1100 
feet), with a continued fosse, or line of wet-ditches in front, 
lined with masonry, of the medium depth of G metres : thence 
to the top of the embankments crowning the wall, on which 
will be ranged the artillery, is a height of 14 metres, or'about 
46 feet. At different points are placed drawbridges, maga¬ 
zines, etc., and several military roads of communication ( rou tes 
strategiques) have been formed. The distance of this regular 
zone or bell, from the irregular outline formed by the octroi 
wall of the capital, varies from 700 yards to nearly 2 miles. 
Taking as a point of departure the western point of Bercy, on 
the right bank of the river, it crosses the road to Charenlon, 
traverses the avenues of St. Mande and Vincennes, goes to the 

(l) The sapeurs-pompiers are efficient soldiers no less than active 
firemen, and are carefully drilled, as well as trained in gymnastics, and 
medals are annually awarded to such as have distinguished themselves 
by their exertions and good conduct. 


COURTS, TRIBUNALS, ETC. 47 

south end ot Charonne, goes behind Pere Lachaise to Belleville 
then to Romainville, and, crossing the Flanders road, reaches 
the Pont de Flandre at La Yillette. Thence, passing westward 
it goes to La Chapeile, St. Denis, crosses the great northern 
road, leaves Montmartre to the left, and traversing various 
routes, etc., passes by Clignancourt to Batignolles, etc., till it 
reaches the eastern point of the king’s park at Neuilly, and 
crossing the road, enters the upper part of the wood of Bou¬ 
logne, and ends at Auteuil. Resuming the line on the opposite 
bank, it encloses the suburbs of Crenelle, Vaugirard, cuts the 
line of the Versailles railway [rive gauche), leaves Montrouge 
outside, passes Gentilly, traverses the plain of lvry, and crosses 
the line of the Orleans railway before arriving at its limit op¬ 
posite Bercy, on the left bank. The forts detaches present 93 
fronts , and are so many small, but complete, fortresses, includ¬ 
ing magazines, barracks, etc. In adopting the line traced 
above, the first in order is the Fort de Charenton; 2. the Fort 
de Nogent; 3. the Fort de Rosny ; 4. the Fort de Noisy; 5. the 
Fort de Romainville; G. the Fort d’Aubervilliers; 7. the Fort de 
VEst, between the latter and Pantin; 8 and 9. Couronne du 
Nord and Fort de la Briche, one on the hither, the second on 
the thither side of St. Denis; 10. Fort du Mont Valerien, the 
most imposing of all; li. Fort de Vanvr'es; 12. Fort d’Issy; 
13. Fort de Montrouge; 14. Fort de BMtfe; 15. Fort d’lvry ; 
1G. the Lunette de Stains; and 17. the Fort de Rouvray. Vin¬ 
cennes has also been greatly enlarged and strengthened. These 
forts are to be armed by 2238 mortars, cannons, or howitzers, 
575 rampart guns, 200,000 muskets, 1500 fusees de guerre, 27G0 
gun-carriages, employing a million of projectiles of various 
sorts, in all 9,129,000 kilos; 46,350 ball-caps, 800,000 kilos of 
lead, 2,000,000 kilos of gunpowder, and 10,300,000 cartouches. 
The artillery will have a range of G000 metres. It is impossible 
to fix with any certainty what will ultimately be the cost to 
the nation of these immense works, involving the purchase of 
so much property, independent of the vast expense of con¬ 
struction, arming, etc. The armament alone will cost upwards 
of 19,000,000 fr. (1) 

COURTS, TRIBUNALS, etc. —The Minister of Justice is the 
supreme head of all the judicial courts in the kingdom, and 
keeper of the seals. To him belongs the superintendence of 
the entire judicial system, and of the body of notaries. 

Court of Cassation, Palais de Justice.—This is the supreme 

(l) By a decision of the Chamber of Deputies in the session of 1 845, 
the cannon, amfanunition, etc., are to be kept at Bourges, and only 
brought to Paris in case of a war. Twelve hundred pieces of cannon 
and howitzers are now ready, and will shortly be trahsported there. 


48 INTRODUCTION. 

court of appeal from all the tribunals of France. It is divided 
into three chambers. In its collective capacity it can censure 
and regulate the cours royales, and can even, for grave reasons, 
suspend the judges from their functions, or send them before 
the Minister of Justice, to render an account of their conduct. 
It does not try causes from the beginning, but only sets aside 
sentences, in cases of informality or misapplication of the law; 
after which it refers the affair itself to a competent tribunal. 
Generally speaking, there is no appeal to this court from the 
sentences of the juges de paix or from those of military and 
naval courts. The time allowed for making an appeal, in civil 
matters, is three months; in criminal matters, misdemeanours, 
and breaches of police regulations, only three days. 

The Court of Cassation is composed of a president, 3 vice- 
presidents, and 45 counsellors, nominated for life by the king. 
It is divided into 3 sections, of requests, of civil and criminal 
appeal. Annexed to the court of cassation are a procureur- 
general, six avocats-generaux, a chief registrar, all named by 
the crown, besides 4 under-registrars. A college of 60 advo¬ 
cates has the exclusive right of pleading in this court, and in 
the king’s councils. The two civil sections have a vacation, 
like the other courts, from September 1 to November 1, but the 
criminal section always continues silting. 

Cour des Comptes, Palais du Quai d’Orsay.—This court is the 
next in rank to that of Cassation, and enjoys similar prero¬ 
gatives. It examines all the principal accounts of the kingdom, 
and consists of a chief president, 3 presidents, and 18 masters 
of accounts, who form the chambers; there are besides 80 con- 
seillers rdferendaires, who examine the accounts and report 
thereon, a procureur-general, and a registrar. It is divided 
into three sections or chambers, whose jurisdiction extends 
over whatever relates to the receipts or expenditure of the 
kingdom. 

Cour Royale, Palais de Justice.—This court is composed of 
a chief president, 5 presidents, 54 counsellors, and 6 auditor- 
counsellors; there are besides attached to it a procureur- 
general, 4 avocats-generaux, It deputy advocates, and a re¬ 
gistrar. It is divided into 5 chambers; 3 civil, one of appeal 
from sentences for misdemeanors, and one for indictments. 
To constitute the Court of Assize, which holds two sessions 
monthly, and consists of one section or two, according to the 
number of prisoners for trial, the keeper of the seals, or the 
first president, appoints a certain number of its counsellors as 
judges. Audiences are held every day, except Sundays and 
holidays, from 9 till 12. There are in France 26 cours royales, 
and the solicitors or attorneys attached to them, called avouds, 


COURTS, TRIBUNALS, ETC. 49 


arc licentiates in law. They nominate a chambre for enforcing 
discipline and regulations. h 

Tribunal de Premiere Instance, Palais de Justice.—This court 
consists of I president, 8 vice-presidents, 56 judges, among 
whom are 20 judges of instruction, 8 supplementary judges, a 
proeureur-du-roi, 22 deputy procureurs, 1 chief registrar, and 
34 sworn registrars. It is divided into 8 chambers, 6 of which 
take cognisance of civil matters, the 6th, 7th, and 8th of cases 
ol correctional police. The court sits every day except Sundays 
and Mondays. Vacation from September l to November 1. 

Tribunal de Commerce, at the Exchange.—The judges of this 
court are heads of mercantile houses, elected for two years in 
a general assembly of merchants, and confirmed by the king. 
The tribunal is composed of a president, 10 judges, 16 deputy 
judges, and has a registrar, under-registrars, and huissiers; 
also 10 officers, called gardes du commerce, who apprehend 
such persons as the tribunal decides shall be arrested. (1) 

Tribunal of Municipal Police, Palais de Justice.—The justices 
of the peace sit here alternately, and decide upon the breach 
of police regulations where the penalty does not exceed five 
daws imprisonment, or a tine of 15 fr. A commissary of police 
acts as counsel for the prosecution. 


Tribunaux de Paix.— In each municipal arrondissement there 
is a tribunal de paix, presided by a juge de paix, principally 
for the adjustment of disputes on money matters, which holds 
its sittings as follows :—1st arrondissement, 9, rue d’Anjou St. 
Honoie; 2d, 3, rue Chauchat; 3d, 34, rue de l’lilchiquier; 4th, 
4, Place du Chevalier du Guet; 5th, 20, rue de Bondy; 6th’ 
11, rue Vend6me; 7th, 20, rue Ste. Croix de la Bretonnerie• 
8th, 14, Place Royale; 9th, 23, rue Geoffroy-Lasnier; 10th, 7, 
rue de Grenelle St. Germain; lllh, 10, rue Garanciere; I2lh’ 
13, rue des Fosses St. Jacques. 


Advocates. —The order of advocates is very numerous, com¬ 
prising upwards of 900 members, and is a body justly cele¬ 
brated for talent and learning. They have a bureau for gra¬ 
tuitous advice to the poor, which is open on Saturdays, from 
1 till 4, at their library, in the Palais de Justice. 

Avoues.— The avoues act in courts of law as solicitors and 
attorneys; in certain cases they have the right of pleading; and 
they are subject to a chamber of discipline formed for each 


(l) The following is from official statements : 


Causes decided. 


1842-1843 

44,162 

1843-1844 

43,472 

1844-1845 

46,064 

1845-1846 

54,878 


Bankrupts. Amount of Debts. 
754 41,855,619 fr. 

676 32,272,865 fr. 

733 41,680,156 fr. 

931 48,342,529 fr. 

5 


50 INTRODUCTION. 

court. They must be licentiates in civil law, and must take the 
oath of an advocate. Their number is 210. 

Notaries. —The number of Paris notaries, and who exercise 
their profession within the jurisdiction of the royal court, is 114: 
they draw up wills, leases r mortgages, title-deeds of estates, and 
other deeds; they give security to the government, and, on retire¬ 
ment or death, their places are sold. Their chamber of discipline 
holds a meeting at l, Place du ChStelet, every Friday evening. 

Huissiers. —These officers, 150 in number, fulfil the duties 
of bailiffs, etc., attached to the different tribunals, and their 
services are required in protesting bills, etc. 

Commissaires Priseurs (appraisers and auctioneers).—Their 
number in Paris is fixed at 80. They have the exclusive privi¬ 
lege of appraising and selling by auction. This body is subject 
to the jurisdiction of the procureur du roi. 

Conseil des Prud’hommes, or Council of Arbitrators. — The 
custom of referring disputes in a trade to arbitrators belonging 
to it dates in France from very early times. Prud’hommes 
were generally named by the king, either for a specified time 
or permanently, to exercise vigilance over certain manufac¬ 
tures, to fix prices, etc. In certain maritime districts the 
fishermen used to assemble annually for the purpose of electing 
Prud’hommes to examine their accounts and settle differences. 
At present the councils of Prud’hommes are composed of mas¬ 
ters and head workmen, elected by the whole community of 
workmen in a certain trade, for the purpose of amicably 
settling disputes about wages, etc., between masters and their 
dependants, principally to obviate strikes and other irregula¬ 
rities. They have been established some time in the depart¬ 
ments, but in Paris they are a recent institution, and as yet only 
exist for the metal trades, for woven articles, chemical arts, and 
articles of Paris manufacture. The council in Paris is composed of 
15 members, of whom 8 are masters and 7 foremen or workmen, 
and holds its sittings at 12, rue de la Douane. All the Prud’hom¬ 
mes take the oaths before the Prefect of the Seine. Two 
Prud’hommes, distinguished by a broad black ribbon and silver 
medal, sit at a time. Unaccustomed to legal trifling, they decide, 
by mere common sense and the custom of the trade, the most 
intricate questions in a very short time, generally to the satis¬ 
faction of both parties. The subjects mostly brought under 
their cognizance relate to counterfeits, indemnities, apprentice¬ 
ships, the condition of children working in factories, hours of 
labdur, and wages. Parties may appeal from their decisions to 
the Tribunal of Commerce. (1) 

(l) In 1846 not less than i,9G2 cases Were settled by conciliation, and 
72 only by formal judgments. 


CIVIL ADMINISTRATION OF PARIS. 51 

CIVIL ADMINISTRATION OF PARIS. -Offices at the Hotel de 
Ville, open from 9 to 4 o'clock. The Prefect of the Department 
of the Seine is the chief municipal authority in the capital. 
Besictes the duties common to the other prefects of the kingdom, 
he exercises nearly all the functions of an English mayor. He 
superintends all public buildings and establishments, edifices 
devoted to divine worship, public works, streets and public 
ways, military institutions, excise duties, markets, hospitals, 
benevolent institutions, direct taxes, public fetes, Chamber of 
Commerce, and domains of the state. He also presents to the 
municipal council the estimates of expenses for the coming 
year.(l) Under him is a Council of Prefecture, composed of 
5 members, with a secretary-general. — The Council-General 
of the Department consists of 36 members, elected 3 by each 
arrondissement of Paris, and of 8 members, elected by the rural 
arrondissernents of Sceaux and St. Denis. The members of each 
arrondissement form its municipal council, and as such are sub¬ 
ject to the control of the council-general. There are also at¬ 
tached to the prefecture 2 auditors of the council of stale, and 
a comite consultatif, of 10 members and a chief secretary. 

Communal and Departmental Administration. — Under this 
head are comprised seven principal divisions, to each of which are 
attached three bureaux. To the First Division belongs a bureau 
for legalizations, patents, translations of foreign documents, 
sales and purchases for the City of Paris, pensions and salaries; 
one for festivals, public ceremonies, advertisements, and small 
expenses for materials, etc.; and one for the archives of the 
department. — The Second Division comprises a bureau for 
inscription and delivery of deeds, the archives of the civil depart¬ 
ment, the compilation of tables, the installation of municipal 
councils, the nomination of maires in the communes of less than 
3000 inhabitants, presentation of candidates for various functions 
and the decoration of the Legion of Honour, statistics, and every¬ 
thing relating to the rural communes, as churches, schools, 
cemeteries, ports, fountains, etc., markets of Paris, expenses of 
the mairies, alienation and purchase of land, burials and verifi¬ 
cations of deaths; a second bureau has the direction of the Oc¬ 
troi, slaughter-houses, public weights and measures, the letting 
of stands in the streets and public walks, servitudes, coach-stands, 
and the Caisse de Poissy, which is a fund paying ready money 
to graziers for the cattle sold at the markets of Sceaux, Poissy, 

(l) By the yearly account carried up to March 31, 1846, the receipts 
were 62,248,441 fr., and the expenditure 48,887,380 fr., showing a balance 
of 13 , 361,061 fr. The maintenance of all the public buildings of Paris 
amounted to 2,447,824 fr., and the expenses for improvements were 
6,039,725 fr, 


INTRODUCTION. 


52 

and the Halle aux Veaux for the butchers of Paris, from whom 
it afterwards reimburses itself; it also collects the tax on the 
cattle destined for the consumption of the city. The third bureau 
has the compilation of the electoral and jury-lists; the munici¬ 
pal council of Paris; the nomination in electoral assemblies to 
the places of maires and adjoints of the twelve arrondissements 
of Paris, and the election of the members of councils of the 
arrondissements of St. Denis and Sceaux, etc.—The Third Divi¬ 
sion has a bureau for elementary schools, primary instruction, 
institutions and boarding-schools for young ladies, the adminis¬ 
tration of the salles d’asile for infancy, ouvroirs, learned socie¬ 
ties, juries of medicine, the City library, and the administration 
of religious affairs; another for hospitals and asylums of the 
department of the Seine; the Mont de Piete, foundlings, luna¬ 
tics, wet-nurses, and encouragement to charitable institutions, 
besides tontines; lastly, a bureau for the organisation of the 
National Guard, expenses relating thereto, houses of correction, 
barracks for the Gendarmerie, the Garde Municipale, and the 
Sapeurs-Pompiers, also guard-houses. — The Fourth Division 
has a bureau for the maintenance of canals and rivers, fountains, 
sewers, street-pavemenls, foot-paths, plantations, and the dis¬ 
tribution of gas; a second bureau for the direction of the plan 
of Paris, the widening of streets, expropriations, the naming of 
streets, numbering of houses and expenses relating to these va¬ 
rious subjects. The third bureau comprises the execution of public 
works; the granting permissions for building, police regulations 
relating thereto, and prosecutions for transgressions. — The 
Fifth Division has a bureau for bridges, roads, and high-ways; 
navigation, mills and manufactories, railways, and the distribu¬ 
tion of water; another for building and repairing the Hotel de 
Ville, churches, prisons, and royal colleges, slaughter-houses, 
markets, the Palais de Justice, and the cemeteries of Paris; and 
a third for commercial affairs and statistics. — The Sixth Divi¬ 
sion has a bureau for the collection and imposition of taxes, 
and the superintendence over the collectors, etc.; another for 
the verification of the lists of tax-payers, the reduction of taxes, 
etc.; and a third for the taking possession of, letting, and sell¬ 
ing national property, liquidations, right of fishing, etc.— The 
Seventh and last Division comprises a bureau for the liquidation 
of all expenses decreed by the Prefecture; another for the com¬ 
pilation of the budgets of the department, the allowance of pen¬ 
sions, etc., and a third for the reception of the accounts of the trea¬ 
surers and collectors of benevolent institutions and the octroi. 

The offices of the Treasurer of the City of Paris are at the 
Hotel de Ville. 

The financial service of the Department of the Seine is con- 


MAIRIES. 


53 

dueled by the following administrations : — Direction de VEn- 
registrement et des Domaines, 3, rue de laPaix. — Direction des 
Contributions Directes , 7, rue Poulletier, lie St. Louis, which 
includes especial offices for the receipt and control of the taxes. 
The Administration of the Customs, 1, rue Casliglione. — The Di¬ 
rection of Indirect Taxes, 10, rue Dupliot. — The Direction des 
Droits d’Octroi, at the Hotel de Ville. 

The Administration at the Post-Office is merged in that of the 
General Post-Office, rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau, of which it 
forms a special division. 

To the above may be added — The Direction of the Paste aux 
Chevaux, 2, rue de la Tour des Dames, and 2, rue Pigale. 

To each of the arrondissements of St. Denis and Sceaux there 
is a sub-prefect, with a council of 9 members. 

Mairies. — Paris is divided into 12 municipal arrondissements, 
each headed by a mayor and two deputy mayors, whose prin¬ 
cipal functions relate to the civil state. The prefect of the de¬ 
partment, however, fills the office of central mayor. Each ar- 
rondissement comprehends 4 quartiers. The following list wifi 
show the situation of each mairie, and the quartiers which come 
within its jurisdiction : — 1st Mairie, 9, rue d’AnjouSt. Honore. 
Quartiers : Tuileries, Champs Elysees, Roule, Place Vendome. 
2d Mairie, 3, rue Chauchat. Quartiers : Palais Royal, Feydeau, 
Chaussee d’Antin, faubourg Montmartre. 3d Mairie, Place des 
Petits Peres, near the Place des Victoires. Quartiers: faubourg 
Poissonniere, Montmartre, Mail, St. Eustache. 4th Mairie, 4 ? 
Place du Chevalier du Guet. Quartiers : Banque de France, 
St. Honors, Louvre, des Marches. 5th Mairie, 20, rue de Bondy, 
Quartiers : Montorgueil, Bonne Nouvelle, faubourg St. Denis, 
Porte St. Martin. 6th Mairie, 11, rue Vendome. Quartiers : des 
Lombards, St. Martin des Champs, Porte St. Denis, Temple. 
7th Mairie, 20, rue Ste. Croix de la Bretonnerie. Quartiers: 
St. Avoye, des Arcis, Mont de Piete, Marche St. Jean. 8th Mairie, 
14, Place Rovale. Quartiers : Marais, Quinze-Vingts, faubourg 
St. Antoine, Popincourt. 9th Mairie, 23, rue Geoffroy-Lasnier. 
Quartiers: Hotel de Ville, Arsenal, lie St. Louis, la Cite. 10th 
Mairie, 7, rue de Grenelle. Quartiers: la Monnaie, St. Thomas 
d’Aquin, faubourg St. Germain, Invalides. 11th Mairie, 10, rue 
Garanciere. Quartiers : Ccole deMedecine, Palais de Justice, Sor- 
bonne, Luxembourg. 12th Mairie, 262, rue St. Jacques. Quar¬ 
tiers -. St. Jacques, Jardin du Roi, St. Marcel, Observatoire. — The 
offices of the m,airies are open daily from 9 till 4; but on Sundays 
and holidays from 9 till 12 only. The mayors and deputy mayors 
sit every day from 12 till 2 

The arrondissement of St. Denis has 34 mayors and 4 com¬ 
munes; that of Sceaux has 39 mayors and 4 communes. 


INTRODUCTION. 


54 

Timrre Royal. — Bureaux for the distribution of stamped pa¬ 
per are established in the different quarters of Paris, besides 
the central office in the rue de la Paix, No. 3. 

Electors and Jurors. — The numbers of persons qualified to 
vote at the elections of deputies, members of the council-general 
of the department of the Seine, and councillors of arrondisse- 
ments in the sub-prefectures of Sceaux and St. Denis amounted 
in 1847 to 21,627. Those qualified to vote at the two elections 
last named, but not at that for deputies, are 2,923 in number; 
and, besides the above classes, there are 18,319 communal elec¬ 
tors admitted to elect the members of municipal councils of the 
extra-mural communes. To the 21,627 political electors, and 
to the 2,923 who are almost all jurors, there are to be added 
385 jurors, who are not electors. The population of the depart¬ 
ment of the Seine being about 1,150,000, it follows that there 
is one elector for every 57 inhabitants. 1,500 jurors are chosen 
out of the total number for the annual assizes. 

ADMINISTRATION OF THE POLICE. —Prefecture de Police. 
rue de Jerusalem, Quai des Orfevres. — Offices open every day 
from 9 till 4 o’clock. The Bureau de Silretd is open night and 
day. The authority of the prefect extends over the whole of the 
department of the Seine, the districts of St. Cloud, Sevres, and 
Meudon, in the department of the Seine-et-Oise, and the market 
of Poissy, in the same department. He exercises his functions 
under the immediate authority of the ministers. The prefect 
delivers passports and permits de sejour; he represses vagrancy, 
mendicity, tumultuous assemblies, and prostitution; he exer¬ 
cises control over the furnished hotels, and the distribution of 
gunpowder and saltpetre; takes cognizance of the occupation of 
workmen, etc., and causes succour to be afforded incase office, 
inundations, etc. He seizes prohibited goods, and unwholesome 
provisions offered for sale; verifies weights and measures, and 
confiscates such as are below the standard; fixes the price of 
bread; suppresses in the capital all establishments injurious to 
health; and superintends the supply of Paris with meat, corn, 
and other provisions. He exercises vigilance over the unlading 
of boats upon the Seine; the baths, brokers, hawkers, porters, 
hackney coaches and their drivers. It likewise belongs to him 
to apprehend and bring to justice all persons accused of mis¬ 
demeanors or crimes. Under his authority are the municipal 
guards, and the corps of sapeurs-pompiers, as before mentioned, 
as well as—inspectors-general for lighting and cleansing the 
streets; of the river and wharfs; of the markets, and particu¬ 
larly those for corn and wine; for the supply of fuel; of mi¬ 
neral waters; of steam-engines; also a commissioner for visiting 
steam-vessels; two engineers to inspect railroads, etc. Under 


ADMINISTRATION OP THE POLICE. 55 

the direction of the prefect, officiers de paix and sergents de ville 
(the latter a kind of military policemen, 1800 in number, dress¬ 
ed in uniform, and wearing side arms,) parade the streets dur¬ 
ing the day-time, and are stationed in all thoroughfares and 
places of public amusement, to prevent disturbances, and to 
apprehend offenders. During the night patrols of sergents de 
ville aided byagents de surete, and abrigade of municipal guards, 
pass through all the streets of Paris every half hour. Municipal 
guards are stationed every night in all theatres, concert-rooms, 
etc., and, besides this, secret agents of police, chosen from among 
divert classes ot society, and paid accordingly, find their way 
into most public assemblies. 

Conseil de Salubrite. —Held at the city prefecture every 
other Friday. It is composed of physicians, surgeons, etc., who 
consult upon the means of preserving the public health of the 
capital, the draining and cleaning of sewers, etc. 

Bureau de VInscription des Ouvriers, at the prefecture.—At 
this office certificates, called livrets, are delivered to workmen, 
without which they cannot obtain work in any shop or of any 
master. Their entrance into employment is certified by the 
commissary of police of their master’s residence, and their 
quitting it by the commissary of the bureau de l’inscriplion. 

Bureau de Verification des Poids et Mesures , at the Ministers 
du Commerce.—New weights and measures are stamped at this 
office before they can be used in commerce; and inspectors 
verify every year those in use by tradesmen, 

Commissaires de Police— In each of the forty-eight quartiers 
of Paris resides a commissary of police, who superintends its 
cleanliness and lighting; takes cognizance of misdemeanors; 
makes the first examination of crimes and offences; delivers 
certificates to obtain passports upon the attestation of two 
householders. The commissaries are in continual communica¬ 
tion with the people, and attend to the complaints they may 
have to make. Their residence is known at night by a square 
lantern of coloured glass hung at the door, 

Secours aux Noyes et Asphyxies.— Witnessess of accidents on 
the Seine and elsewhere are bound to afford the first aid, and 
to call the nearest physician or surgeon, or to make it known 
to the nearest military post or commissary of police. A reward 
of 25 fr. is given to any one who gets to shore a drowning per¬ 
son, if he be restored; and 15 fr, if the efforts of art are fruitless, 
80 sets of apparatus are deposited on the banks of the Seine. 

La Morgue, Marche Neuf.—This is a place in which are de¬ 
posited for three days the bodies of unknown persons who are 
drowned, or meet with accidental death. They are laid upon 
inclined planes, open to the inspection of the public, in order 


56 INTRODUCTION. 

that they may be recognised by those interested in their fate. 
Their clothes are hung up near them, as an additional means of 
recognition. If not claimed, they are buried at the public ex¬ 
pense. The average number of bodies exposed annually is 
about 300, of which live-sixths are males. (1) 

PRISONS.—During the middle ages the prisons of Paris were 
as incommodious and unhealthy as those of any city in Europe. 
The first amelioration took place in 1670; and in 1675 Louis XIV. 
reduced the number of them, retaining only nine. Notwith¬ 
standing'these arrangements, the prison system experienced 
but little improvement. At the accession of Louis XVI. to the 
throne they were in a very bad state; labour was interdicted, 
and the inmates without classification. Upon the entrance of 
M. de Malesherhes to the administration, he ordered the lunatics 
and those confined for political offences to be separated from 
the criminals. The striking picture of abuses set forth by him 
attracted the attention of his successors; and upon M. Necker’s 
coming into office, the amelioration of prisons was one of the 
first objects of his attention. The improvement was making 
considerable progress when it was arrested by the Revolution. 
The Constituent Assembly determined to reform the system, 
but the execution of the project was left to the succeeding 
legislative body. On the 29lii of September, 1791, a law was 
passed which established houses d’arrti, of justice, and deten¬ 
tion. Allolher prisons were prohibited, and mildness towards 
the prisoners was enjoined. The execution of the measure was 
scarcely begun, when the system of terror and arbitrary im¬ 
prisonment filled the prisons with those who ought to have been 
for ever strangers to them. The 9lh Thermidor put an end to 
that state of things; and those who had been the victims of per¬ 
secution exclaiming against the administration of the prisons, 
public opinion united with them in demanding a change in the 
system. In 1795, in pursuance of a decree of the National Con¬ 
vention, separate prisons were appointed for the different classes 
of offenders, and the criminal and penal code was enacted, 
which fixed with greater precision the competency of the dif¬ 
ferent tribunals. The changes effected in the criminal legislation 
since the Revolution have necessarily produced a sensible effect 
in the prison regulations. The improvement of the prisons has 
occupied a large portion of the attention of the municipality of 
Paris and of the government; and the new buildings promise to 
produce the most happy results, not only for the prisoners, but 

(l) The number of medals given in 1845 for acts of humanity in saving 
persons from drowning or otherwise was 495, viz., 13 gold and 482 silver* 5 
The number of persons saved was 576. 


PRISONS. 57 

also for the whole community. The transport of prisoners from 
one depot to another isperformed more rapidlyand decorously, 
and the disgusting chaine, traversing the country slowly with 
felons to the hulks (galeres), is now abolished. 

The prisons of Paris under the control of the civil authorities 
are nine in number, viz. for persons under accusation or under 
trial ; debt; political offences and offences liable to only 1 year’s 
imprisonment; for those condemned to death or to the hulks; 
juvenile criminals; and females; all of which are under the 
jurisdiction of the prefect of police. Besides these there is a mi¬ 
litary prison, under the jurisdiction of the Minister of War. (1) 
In all the penal prisons the criminals are allowed books and 
writing-materials; they are bound to observe their religious 
duties in their respective creeds; meals are in common; work 
is obligatory, but permission may be obtained to exercise a 
particular trade. They may receive visits from their families. 
Men receive 750 grammes (1 ‘/> lb.) of bread a-day; women 700 
grammes. For permission to visit any of the former, applica¬ 
tion must be made by letter to M. ie Prefet de Police, a la 
Prefecture de Police. It is, however, but rarely granted. 

La Force, rue du Roi de Sicile.—This prison is composed of 
buildings which were formerly the hotel of the Duke de La 
Force, but were converted to their present destination in 1780. 
A new prison for prostitutes, called La Petite Force, in con¬ 
tradistinction to the other, or La Grande Force, was erected 
about the same period. Since the beginning of 1830 these two 
prisons have been united, and the whole appropriated to the 
confinement of male persons committed for trial. The prisoners 
are divided into separate classes; the hardened thieves, who are 
old offenders, form one; men committed for acts of violence, an¬ 
other; old men above 60 years of age are placed by themselves, 
and so are boys under 18 years of age; the other prisoners form 
two classes, those supposed to be the best disposed being kept 
by themselves. The prisoners sleep in large dormitories, which 
are comparatively clean and well ventilated; the dormitory of 
the boys is divided by strong partitions into small chambers, 
each containing a single bed, and in their ward a workshop is 
established. The other prisoners may work if they please ; but 
as they are not as yet condemned, their labour is quite vo¬ 
luntary. An infirmary, bathing-room, parloir, and cantine are 
attached to the prison, as well as an advocates’room, in which 
prisoners can confer with their legal defenders. Each class 
has a yard for exercise. The sanitary regulations of this prison 

(I) In addition to the above, there are besides for the department of 
the Seine two houses of correction, one at St. Denis, the other for the 
suppression of mendicity at Yillers-Cotterets. 


68 INTRODUCTION. 

are very excellent, and are attended with the best results. 
The number of prisoners varies from 600 to 700, and the an¬ 
nual movement of the population of the prison is nearly 10,000. 
On account of the increased number of prisoners, the chapel 
has been converted into dormitories. 

St. Lazare, 117, rue du Faubourg St. Denis.—This was the 
ancient convent of the Lazarisls; but it is now converted into 
a general prison for females committed for trial, or condemned 
to imprisonment for terms not exceeding one year. The Mat- 
son Centrale, to which they are sent for longer periods, is at 
Clermont. This prison is divided into three sections, altogether 
distinct from each other : the first contains, 1, criminals com¬ 
mitted for trial; 2, those who are undergoing a sentence of im¬ 
prisonment. The second section is devoted to prostitutes con¬ 
demned to short imprisonment for offences against sanitary or 
other regulations of the police, and those confined in the in¬ 
firmary or the prison. Children under 16 years of age occupy 
the third section, and are kept by themselves. Each class has 
its separate infirmary, and to all are attached workshops, in 
which the prisoners are obliged to labour at different trades. 
The distribution and internal regulation of this prison are very 
good, and every encouragement is given to the prisoners who 
show a disposition of amendment. To this end they are allowed 
out of their earnings two-thirds, and their daily gain may 
amount to 1 fr. or 1 Vafr. All sorts of manufactures are carried 
on here; the preparation of hooks and eyes, of cashmere yarn, 
and of phosphorus-boxes, being the chief. To this prison is 
also attached the general bakehouse of all the prisons, as well 
as the general laundry and linen-depot. A large chapel stands 
in the middle of the prison, and the women confined here attend 
service in it every Sunday. The number of females confined 
here is from 900 to 1,100, and the annual movement of the po¬ 
pulation of the prison is about 10,000. The interior service of 
this prison, as indeed of all institutions wherein females are 
detained or confined in the capital, is confided to the Scours de 
Charity, No other attendants are permitted in the interior. 

Maison d’Arret des Madelonnettes, 14, rue des Fontaines, 
opposite the Temple.—These buildings formerly belonged to a 
society of nuns, called the Filles de la Madeleine, who de¬ 
voted themselves to the reclaiming of abandoned women. 
Since the Revolution it has been used, first, as a prison for 
females, and on the removal of that class of offenders to St. La- 
zare, as a temporary prison for men and boys. The latter are 
kept in a building apart. 

La Nouvelle Force, Boulevard Mazas and rue Traversiere. 
—Daily experience having proved the old prisons of La Force 


PRISONS. 59 

and the Madelonnettes to be extremely unhealthy, a new pri¬ 
son, under the name of La Nouvelle Force, intended to replace 
the two former, was planned, and will soon be ready for the 
reception of offenders. Its principal entrance faces the new 
street, called Boulevard Mazas, intended to connect the Place 
du Trone with the Pont d’Austerlilz; the other entrance is rue 
Traversiere. Its construction is such that a strict surveillance 
may be exercised over the prisoners, while they are at the 
same lime effectually prevented from communicating with 
each other. A semicircular building forms a centre, to which 
converge six large wings, each consisting of a ground floor 
and two stories of 70 cells each; so that every wing contains 
210 cells, and the whole structure 12G0. A large hall of ob¬ 
servation occupies the central body, and communicates with 
the long internal corridors which in each wing separate the 
two rows of cells from one another, as well as with the court¬ 
yards enclosed by the wings. In the centre of this hall an 
altar will be erected on Sundays, and the doors of the cells 
opened, thus to enable the prisoners to hear mass without 
communicating with one another. A peculiar system of cale- 
faetion and ventilation by steam wilt be adopted, which will 
effectually correct the internal atmosphere of the prison. 

Depot j>e Condamnes , or Nouveau Bicetre, rue de laRoquette. 
—This prison is for criminals condemned either to forced labour 
in the Bagnes or to death. It consists of a pile of building sur¬ 
rounding a large quadrangular court 180 ft. by 150 ft., three 
stories high; the lower of which is occupied by workshops, etc., 
the two upper by the prisoners’ cells. The greater part of the 
western side is allotted to the lodgings of the director and other 
officers, the general linen store, etc. In this side, too, is the 
entrance, the porter’s lodge, corps-de-garde, etc. A small court, 
added to the eastern side, is surrounded by the chapel and in¬ 
firmary. At the same lime that this prison is light, airy, and 
healthy, it is one of the strongest houses of confinement ever 
erected. A double court surrounds the whole, in which surveil- 
lans and sentinels constantly keep guard; the walls and iron 
fastenings are all of extraordinary solidity; each prisoner has a 
separate room, in which he is fastened at night; and there are 
cachots, or dark chambers, for refractory prisoners, as well as 
three condemned cells for prisoners under sentence of death. 
The average number of prisoners is 400. A fountain in the 
middle of the great court gives a constant supply of water, and 
every means is adopted for the cleanliness and health of the 
prisoners. The chapel is large and commodious, and service 
is performed in it every Sunday. This house, both for the style 
of its architecture and its excellent distribution, may be looked 


INTRODUCTION. 


60 

upon as a model for all others of the kind: the inspection of the 
prisoners is carefully attended to, and every improvement that 
humanity could suggest has been adopted. It was designed by 
M. Gau, built in the short space of 18 months, and cost 1,245,000 fr. 

Maison Centrale d’Education Correctionnelle, or Prison des 
Jcunes Detenus, rue dela Roquette.—This prison, which stands 
immediately opposite the last-named one, and is constructed 
upon the cellular principle, has more the air of a feudal castle 
than of a house of detention. It was planned by M. Lebas. It 
consists of a regularly hexagonal pile of building, with circular 
turrets at the angles, from each of which piles of building con¬ 
verge to a circular one in the centre. Six courts are thus in¬ 
closed, all of which are built on precisely the same model. The 
central building, which is perfectly isolated from all others, and 
is approached only by iron bridges, contains, below the level of 
the soil, in a large circular area, the kitchens; above these, on 
the ground floor, is the general parloir, so contrived that the 
prisoners of each section are kept by themselves, and that a guar¬ 
dian is always placed in a corridor between them and their 
visitors. Above the parloir is the chapel, forming the whole of 
the upper part of the building; this is so contrived that the pri¬ 
soners of each division enter it separately, and, when once in, 
can see nothing in it but the altar and themselves. Each court 
contains on the ground floor 2 workshops; while the three upper 
stories contain 95 separate chambers, each 7 l / 2 ft. square by 
8 '/ 2 ft. high, with a window looking into the court, and a door 
opening into a corridor. The court contains a fountain in the 
middle, planted round with trees. This prison is intended for 
such offenders under the age of 1G as have been declared by 
the tribunal incapable of judgment; they are then acquitted of 
the offence, but subjected to correctional education for a certain 
time, not exceeding their 20th year. The prisoners are divided 
according to age and size, and as much as possible according to 
their morality. Those ofonecoui t can never have any intercourse 
with those of another, except in the ateliers , and the strictest 
surveillance is maintained over the prisoners night and day. On 
the eastern side of the prison are the director’s house, and other 
apartments for officers connected with the house; on the western 
is the infirmary, and a large well with a wheel worked like a 
treadmill by the more robust prisoners. This supplies water to 
the whole of this as well as the opposite prison. A school of 
mutual instruction is established in the prison. The average 
number of prisoners is 400. 

Depot de la Prefecture de Police. — The prison adjoining the 
Prefecture was built in 1828, at an expense of 300,000 fr. It is a 


PRISONS. 


61 


*; Ia , ce °f temporary confinement, where persons arrested are 
detained till examination takes place. It is divided into two 
parts : the Salle St. Martin is for those who can afford to pay for 
lodgings and accommodations. A building three stories in height 
seives, on the first floor, for the detention of prostitutes; on the 
second for those accused of crime; and on the third for those 
arrested for minor offences. (1) 

The Conciergerie, in the Palais de Justice, is used as a depot 
for prisoners during their trial, and sometimes for notorious 
offenders before their committal. It is suited to the purpose 
from its proximity to the courts of justice. For the historical 
associations connected with this prison, and a description of 
the building itself, the reader is referred to the Index. 


Prison de l Abbave. This was formerly a house of detention 
within the jurisdiction of the Abbaye of St. Germain des Pres 
in the immediate neighbourhood of which it stands. It contains 
several dungeons below the ground, and is the most gloomy of 
all the places of confinement in Paris. The horrors which took 
place here during the revolution are too well known to need 
further allusion. This prison now serves as a house of arrest 
for military offences ; the house of detention is fixed in the Cha¬ 
teau of St. Germain. To visit this prison application must be 
made to the Minister of War, but on account of the strictness of 
military discipline great difficulty may be expected in obtaining it. 

Prison for Debtors, 68, rue de Clichy.—-This prison is of 
plain construction, airy, and well situated; it holds from 300 
to 400 persons, and is to receive further augmentations. 


Ste. Pelagie, rue de la Clef. — This prison was formerly a 
convent of nuns, which was suppressed at the Revolution. After 
that period it was converted into a prison for debtors. It has 
only lately been appropriated to persons condemned to im¬ 
prisonment for not more than a year, and to political offenders, 
either committed for trial, or sentenced to short terms of con¬ 
finement. The internal arrangement of the prison has there¬ 
fore become entirely changed, and much improved. Political 
offenders are kept apart from the rest, and are at liberty to 
occupy themselves as they please. About 550 persons are ge¬ 
nerally confined here. The buildings are large and airy. As it 
contains political prisoners, the military discipline observed 
within, and in the immediate neighbourhood of this prison, is 
exceedingly severe. Persons condemned to forced labour are 


(1) In 1845 the number of arrests was 62,477, or about 171 a-day of 
these 31,670 were set at liberty after a short detention; 26 ,171 were sen¬ 
tenced to imprisonment for a few months, or discharged on bail. Out 
of 4,636 brought to trial before the jury, 3,455 were found guilty.' 

6 


62 


INTRODUCTION. 


removed first to the Nouveau Bictitre, rue de la Roquette, and 
thence to the various Bagnes, or hulks, at the sea-ports. 

Connected with the prisons are the two following benevo¬ 
lent institutions:— 


Society de Patronage des JeuxSes Liber£s de la Seine.— This 
excellent institution, founded in 1833, is intended for the 
management of young prisoners while in confinement at the 
Maison Centrale, and for observing their conduct after the expi¬ 
ration of their punishment. Each member has one or more young 
prisoners under his own especial care, and whose patron he is. 
The liberated prisoner is bound apprentice to a trade, and the 
society assist the family in maintaining him if their means are 
insufficient. Every individual costs the society on an average 
80 fr. a-year. The most gratifying effects have already resulted 
from the efforts of this society, which is also assisted by govern¬ 
ment. The conduct of the prisoners is greatly improv ed, and the 
number of cases of recommittal diminished from GO to 10 per 
cent. The government allows the society 80 centimes per day 
for each prisoner liberated before the expiration of his time, 
but only during the remaining period of his sentence, being 
the same allowance as that given to a colony at Metlray, near 
Tours, (1) for young offenders sent thither from prison, and 
employed in mechanical and agricultural work. An annual 
meeting for the distribution of prizes for good conduct, etc., is 
held at the Hotel de Ville, and a report of the proceedings is 
published every year. M. Berenger, peer of France, is president 
of the society. The secretary’s office is at No. 9, rue de Menars. 

The other association, formed for a similar benevolent purpose, 
is called LaSocieie de Patronage pour les Jeunes Filles libere'es 
et delaissdes. The president is Mine, de Lamartine, No. 82 rue 
de l’Universile. 


LAWS OF FRANCE AFFECTING BRITISH RESIDENTS. — 
The following is entirely extracted from the valuable work of 
Mr. Okey on this subject—a book that ought to be in the library 
of every person domiciliated in France. We have merely abridged 
a few of the more important subjects, and refer the readerl’or 
fuller information to the work itself. 

Births.— The French law requires that every birth be declared 
to the mayor of the commune, or arrondissementin Paris, within 


(l) This admirable colony receives young offenders, not older than 17 
from the differed prisons of France, on condition that the time still 
remaining of their sentence be not less than 3 years, being sent to 
Metlray is considered a boon. The colony consists of 12 farm-houses 
enclosing a square space of ground; each house contains a familv of 

agricultural 3 ° md ‘ viduals ’ uader the carc of a their pursuits are 




LAWS AFFECTING BRITISH RESIDENTS. 63 

three days after it takes place; and that the child be produced 
to the officer who registers the acte de naissance. The father, 
or, in his absence, the midwife or medical man who attended 
at the birth, must make the declaration. The acte must be drawn 
up immediately after the birth, in the presence of two witnesses, 
and this is one of the few cases in which women may be good 
witnesses, as it may happen that they only have knowledge of 
the birth. It must state the day, hour, and place of birth; the 
sex, Christian and surnames of the child, and the names of Ihe 
parents and witnesses, with their profession and domicile. This 
acte is usually drawn up at the mairie. Parties not complying 
with these formalities are subject to tine and imprisonment. An 
authentic extract from the mayor’s register is valid, asa proof of 
birth, in England. Children born of foreigners are foreigners ; 
but, when of age, they can claim the rights of French citizens. 

Marriages. —A marriage between two British subjects in a 
foreign country is valid in England in the two following cases: 
either when the marriage has been solemnised in the British 
ambassador’s house or chapel by a minister of the church of 
England, or when the parties have married in the form esta¬ 
blished in the foreign country. For a marriage at the Paris 
embassy, one of the parlies is required to make affidavit before 
the consul that they are of age, etc. But a marriage even be¬ 
tween British subjects is not binding in France unless it be 
celebrated according to the French forms. The formalities 
required by ihe French law consist of publication by the 
mayor, declaration of consent of natural or legal guardians, 
proof of legal age, testimony of witnesses, etc., all of which 
may be learnt on application at the mairie, or from the Code 
Civil. Other modifications of the laws of marriage will be 
found in the work of Mr. Okey. According to the laws both of 
France and England, the wife, if previously belonging to an¬ 
other country, becomes, on marriage, a citizen of the same 
country as her husband,- but an Englishwoman, married to a 
Frenchman, does not lose all her English rights. The law of 
settlements, in the case of a marriage between parties of diffe¬ 
rent countries, is open to great difficulty, and a lawyer’s advice 
is absolutely necessary in such cases. A settlement of English 
property effected in France in the English form will be binding 
in England; but, to be valid in France, it must be made before 
a French notary previous to the marriage. The law of France 
does not take cognizance of our law of divorce. 

Deaths.—I n case of death, a declaration thereof should im¬ 
mediately be made at the mairie by the relatives or friends ol 
the deceased, or by the person at whose house the death look 
place. The body is then visited by a physician appointed by 


64 INTRODUCTION. 

the mayor to ascertain the causes of dissolution, and cannot be 
interred without authorisation from him, nor until 24 hours 
after the decease, except in cases otherwise provided for by 
the regulations of the police. In case a deceased person leaves 
personal property, seals are affixed thereon by tbe juge de paix, 
till the heirs or legatees can establish their claims, in order 
that the effects may not be exposed to depredation; and in tbe 
absence of the parties interested, the seals remain unbroken till 
they can lake possession in person or by proxy. The affixing 
of seals may be required by the heir or representatives of the 
deceased, by any person interested in the property, by creditors, 
servants, etc. With regard to foreigners, the juge de paix pro¬ 
ceeds to this formality of his own accord, as soon as intelli¬ 
gence of a death reaches him. The seals cannot be removed 
under three days from the time of their being affixed, or from 
the day of the burial, and only by the juge de paix on a formal 
demand. 

Wills. (The subject of wills is one of much importance, 
and it is desirable to have recourse to professional assistance, 
in the drawing up of such documents.) Wills disposing of real 
property in England must, whether made there or abroad, be 
in writing, signed by the testator, or by another person in his 
presence by his direction, and attested in his presence by two 
witnesses. The same form is necessary for a will of personal 
property, wherever situated, if the testator has an English do¬ 
micile. A will made in a foreign country, disposing of goods in 
England, must be proved in England. If the will is in a foreign 
language, the probate is granted of a translation by a notary 
public. Great inconvenience is experienced where an executor 
is not appointed to a foreign will. According to the laws of 
France, a will may be olographic, made by public act, or in the 
secret form. An olographic will should be written throughout, 
dated, and signed by the testator. A single word in the hand 
of another person would render it null and void. The will by 
public act is received by two notaries in tbe presence of two 
witnesses, or by one notary in the presence of four witnesses* 
in both cases it must be read over to the testator in the pre¬ 
sence of the witnesses; and mention must be made in the will 
of all these circumstances. If the will be dictated in a parti¬ 
cular or provincial idiom, the notary will write it in correct 
language. The will must be signed by the testator, or, if he 
cannot write, express mention must be made in tbe will of his 
declaration to that effect. The will must be signed by the 
witnessess. W hen a testator makes a mystic or secret will, lie 
must sign it, whether he has written it himself or caused it to 
lie written by another. The paper containing it must be sealed. 


LAWS AFFECTING BRITISH RESIDENTS. 65 

The testator must present it thus sealed to the notary, and six 
witnesses, at least, or cause it to be closed and sealed in their 
presence, and must declare that the contents of such deed are 
his will, written and signed by himself, or written by another, 
and signed by himself. The notary thereon draws up the su¬ 
perscription, which must be written on the paper, or on the 
sheet which serves as a cover, and this must be signed, as well 
by the testator as by the notary and the witnesses. Persons 
who cannot read are not allowed to dispose of their property 
by a mystic or secret will. In case a testator cannot speak, but 
is able to write, he may make a mystic will, provided it is 
throughout written, dated, and signed by himself; and at the 
time of delivering it to the notary in the presence of witnesses, 
he writes at the lop of the superscription that the deed which 
he delivers is his will. An English subject dying in France, but 
not domiciled there, may dispose of his property in England 
according to the English law; but all real property in France, 
though possessed by an English subject, follows the French law 
of succession. By the law of France, a testator, leaving at his 
decease one legitimate child, may dispose of not more than 
half of his property; if two children, of the third part; if there 
are more than two children, a fourth part only will be at his 
disposal. Under the title of children are included their descen¬ 
dants, in whatever degree, claiming in right of the child from 
whom they descend. Upon the failure of legitimate heirs, the 
properly passes to the surviving parent, and, in default of such, 
to the illegitimate issue and their descendants, provided they 
have been legally recognized by the deceased. 

Civil Rights. —All persons residing in France are subject to 
the police laws, and are bound to observe every regulation con¬ 
nected with the public safety. An important difference is to be 
remarked between residence and domicile. A foreigner resident 
in France enjoys the same civil rights as are or may be granted 
to Frenchmen by the treaties with the nation to which such fo¬ 
reigner belongs; with this important addition in his favour, that 
by a liberal provision of the French law he enjoys the right of 
succession in France, although it may not be granted to French 
citizens in his own country. He cannot, however, establish his 
domicile in France, without the King’s express permission; this 
being obtained, he is then admitted to the enjoyment of all the 
civil, though not of the political, rights of French subjects. A 
foreigner merely resident in France still continues subject to the 
laws of his own country, and his children are also foreigners, 
until they have complied with the law relative to the denization 
of children born of foreigners in France. A foreigner, after 10 
years’ domiciliation in France, may, on compliance with cer- 


66 INTRODUCTION. 

tain forms, become naturalised, by an ordonnance duroi. Let¬ 
ters of naturalization may be granted to foreigners, who have 
rendered essential service to the state, at the end of one year. 

Arrest. —“By the French law, a foreigner not domiciled in 
France may, when a debt has become due, be arrested on a 
judge's order provisionally, and before payment of the debt has 
been adjudged by the Tribunal; but it has been held that a 
Frenchman must he, in such cases, the original creditor, and 
not one who has become so by the assignment of a debt con¬ 
tracted by one foreigner with another, except in case of cir¬ 
culating securities, as bills.” No foreigner in France, although 
admitted to the enjoyment of civil rights, can arrest another 
foreigner for debt. Arrest of foreigners must not be for less 
than 150 fr.; nor can it be made against foreigners domiciled 
in the country, unless by virtue of a judgment; and persons of 
70 years of age are not liable to be arrested. Women are not 
liable to arrest for civil debts. Arrest neither prevents nor 
suspends proceedings and execution against the goods of the 
debtor. Arrest must not take place before sunrise nor after 
sunset; nor on fete days; nor in buildings dedicated to divine 
worship; nor at the seat of constituted authorities; nor in any 
house whatever, even in the domicile of the debtor, if entrance 
is refused, unless authorised by the Juge de Paix, who must in 
such case accompany the officer. The prisoner may demand to 
be taken to the President of the Tribunal de Premiere Instance, 
who will decide as an arbitrator. 

Imprisonment for Debt.— The keeper of the prison, on receiv¬ 
ing the prisoner, must enter in the prison-book, or register, 
the judgment which authorises the arrest. This must be written 
in a certain prescribed form, and must also certify the deposit 
of at least one month’s prison allowance by the creditor, who 
must always make this deposit beforehand. A debtor may ob¬ 
tain his liberation by the consent of the creditor, and of all who 
have lodged detainers against him, given before a notary, or 
entered on the register of the prison; by the payment, when 
the debt is not commercial, of a third of the amount and costs, 
and giving for the remainder a surety accepted bv the creditor’ 
or approved by the Court; by the default of the creditor to 
deposit one month’s prison allowance, fixed at 30 fr.; and by 
the prisoner having entered his 70th year. Whether the prin¬ 
cipal debt be of a commercial or a civil nature, imprisonment 
of a foreigner in all cases ceases after 2 years, if it does not 
amount to 500 fr.; after 4 years, when below 1,000 fr.; after G 
years, when below 3,000 fr.; after 8 years, when below 5,000 fr.; 
after 10years, when above 5,000 fr. and upwards. These periods 
are, most unjustly, double those inflicted on French subjects. 


LAWS AFFECTING BRITISH RESIDENTS. 67 

In case of non-payment of prison-allowance, the debtor is 
entitled to an order of the court for his release, provided he 
apply before the money is paid; and he cannot again be arrested 
by the creditor, except on payment of all costs incurred by the 
former in obtaining his liberation, with a deposit of 6 months’ 
allowance in advance, in the hands of the prison-keeper. 

Acts. —In drawing up civil documents, the French law re¬ 
quires that the year, day, and hour of the acte be mentioned, 
together with the Christian names, surnames, ages, professions, 
and domiciles of all persons concerned in them. No abbrevia¬ 
tion may be used, nor date inserted in figures. 

Ambassadors, Consuls, etc.—Ily the law of nations, the hotel 
of an ambassador is considered as forming part of the territory 
of the nation which he represents. This privilege, however, 
does not invalidate the right of a child of a foreigner, born 
within the precints of the hotel, to become a French subject on 
its coming of age. The ambassador is free from arrest or any 
civil process, and so are his servants, secretaries, etc.; but the 
same privilege does not apply to a consul. The duties of a consul 
are very extensive : he has to watch over the commercial in¬ 
terests ol his nation; to protect his countrymen who may be in 
distress, and in some cases to exercise judicial authority over 
them. Those resident in seaports are bound to see that no 
vessel under their Hag sails without all due claims being pre¬ 
viously settled. In Paris the consular department is added to 
that of the embassy, and the office is in the same hotel. 

Bills of Exchange.—B y the law of France all endorsements 
upon bills of exchange, etc., are required to be special. Unless 
a bill of exchange is payable to order it cannot be negotiated. 
The holder of a bill of exchange protested for non-payment 
may, upon procuring the order of a judge, distrain the goods 
and chattels of the drawer, the acceptor, and the indorsers; 
which, when so taken, are deposited in the hands of justice to 
answer the amount of the debt. Actions upon bills of exchange 
are limited to 5 years from the date of the protest, or from the 
last proceedings upon it; but different and frequently contra¬ 
dictory opinions have been held by judges respecting the inter¬ 
pretation of the act of 1832, and of certain clauses of the code 
regardi ng bills of exchange, and all questions concerning “debt.” 

Witnesses to the execution of notarial instruments, according 
to French law, must be men, natives, 21 years of age, and 
having civil rights; but in case of a will made by public acte, 
they must furthermore be neither legatees, nor relatives or con¬ 
nections, even to the fourth degree inclusively, nor even the 
clerks of the notaries by whom the acte is drawn up. A fo¬ 
reigner in France may be a good witness to a civil acte. 


68 


INTRODUCTION. 


Duels. —It has been decided by the tribunals that, an indivi¬ 
dual having killed his adversary, an action may he maintained 
against him by the widow and orphans for damages. 

Copyright.— The French law gives to the authors of works of 
literature, and to composers, painters, engravers, etc., the sole 
property and disposal of their works, during their own lives; to 
their widows for life, if entitled to it under the marriage-con¬ 
tract; to the children of the author for 20 years from his de¬ 
cease, or from the decease of the survivor of him and his widow, 
if the latter lakes a life-interest; to the author’s other heirs or 
assignees (if he leaves no children) for 10 years from his decease. 
The copyright is possessed by dramatic authors during life, and 
by their families or heirs for 5 years after. The importation into 
France of works originating there, and pirated in a foreign coun¬ 
try, is a misdemeanor. Authors may dispose of their properly 
to another person, who then becomes entitled to the same rights. 

Port d’Armes.— Permission to carry arms maybe obtained at 
any prefecture, but must receive a vistf at each change of de¬ 
partment. It is not transferable; it costs 25 fr., and is valid for 
only 1 year. The sportsman should always carry it about him, 
since any authorised guard may always demand to see it; and, if 
not produced, a summons before a tribunal maybe made, which 
will be attended with expense. Sporting must not he on an¬ 
other’s property without leave, and on no uninclosed property 
out of the season, which is generally from 1st Sept, to 1st March. 

Fishing.— Every person is allowed to fish with the line only, 
the spawning-season excepted, in all rivers, canals, and navi¬ 
gable streams belonging to government, and in all dependencies 
of such streams, etc., where a fishing-boat can pass. Every per¬ 
son fishing in private waters, without permission from the owner, 
is liable to a fine of from 20 fr. to 100 fr., besides damages. 

National Guard.— Foreigners having acquired civil rights are 
liable to serve in the national guard; but in that case only. 

Carriers.— The proprietors of public carriages are liable in 
France for the full value of objects entrusted to their care and 
lost, although the value of them may not have been declared. 
This does not apply to the luggage of a passenger, if given to 
the conducteur without having been entered on the way-bill. 

Innkeepers and masters of hotels, in France, are responsible 
for the property brought into their house by a traveller, and 
for all robberies committed by servants or strangers, except in 
the case of an armed or superior force, or where the properly, 
being of a very considerable value, was not shown to them or 
the existence of it mentioned when the traveller came to the 
hotel, especially if any negligence as to locking-up, etc., can 
be shown against the owner. Their responsibility holds good 


LAWS AFFECTING BRITISH RESIDENTS. 60 

even if the traveller leaves the key in the lock of his door 
timing the night because he has a right to count upon the 
same security as if he were in his own house; but not so if he 
leaves the key in during the day, because that is held to he an 
•act of imprudence. Innkeepers and persons letting furnished 
lodgings may detain the effects of a lodger in case of non¬ 
payment, except the clothes actually in use-, they cannot 
however, touch the goods of a deceased or departed guest but 
must obtain the authority of the Tribunal de Premiere Instance 
to se " a portion of it, in order to satisfy their claim. 

Servants, if hired by the day, are paid accordingly, and dis¬ 
missed at pleasure; those hired by the year are paid by the 
calendar month, and are entitled to eight days’ warning or 
wages on being dismissed, but must, if required, serve the eight 
days- When the servant gives warning, or demands to be dis¬ 
missed, the eight days are not payable unless the master re¬ 
quires the service of the party during that period. The contract 
tor hiring is not binding upon the servant until money has 
been received as an earnest. The master is in all cases be¬ 
lieved on affirmation as to the amount and payment of wages. 

Apartments.— An apartment, hotel, house, or shop, may be 
rented in France either verbally or by writing. Leases are either 
executed before notaries or privately; they must be written on 
stamped paper, and care should be taken to observe all the 
formalities required by the law for actes. The rent is always 
payable at the end of each quarter or terme; the quarter-days 
being in reality on the first day of January, April, July, and 
October; but in all cases 14 days’ grace are allowed when the 
rent exceeds 400 fr. per annum, and 8 days when under that 
sum. Foreigners in France are generally required to pay the 
month or terme in advance. The lessee, on quilting the pre¬ 
mises, should return all keys, as a sign that tenancy is at an end, 
before the pay-day of the terme; the repairs requisite must have 
been completed, the rent paid, and proof of due payment of 
taxes having been made must be given. Any opposition on 
either side is noticeable by a juge de paix. A lessee may underlet 
or assign his lease, if there is no provision in it to the contrary; 
hut he is responsible for the conduct of his tenant, and for li'is 
own rent as principal tenant to the proprietor. The assignee, 
or under-tenant, is not liable to the original lessor beyond the 
amount of rent due by the under-lease or assignment; hut he 
cannot set up payment of rent made by anticipation to his own 
landlord as a bar to a legal claim by the original lessor. A lessee 
who does not put upon the premises sufficient furniture or 
moveables to answer the amount of the rent may he ejected, 
unless he gives sufficient additional security. When a plan of 


70 INTRODUCTION. 

the premises, or an inventory of their fittings, has been made by 
the contracting parties, the lessee is hound to restore every 
thing as he found it, excepting what may have perished or be¬ 
come damaged by lime and fortuitous events. With this excep¬ 
tion, the lessee may alter the premises as much as he pleases. If 
no plan or inventory has been made, the tenant is bound to give 
up possession of them in good condition. The lessee is liable 
for the damage in the case of fire, unless he can prove that it 
was communicated from a neighbouring house, or happened by 
accident, or by faulty construction of tbe premises he occupies. 
If during a lease repairs become absolutely necessary, the lessee 

is bound to suffer them; but if they last more than 40days, the 
rent is diminishable in consequence. In taking an apartment 
as soon as the bargain is made with the proprietor, it is usual 
to give a trifle as earnest-money to the porter. Notice of quittal 
must be given 6 weeks, at least, beforehand, when the annual 
rent is under 400 fr., and a quarter when it is above that sum. 
As soon as notice is given, the tenant cannot refuse at a sea¬ 
sonable hour to show the apartments. 

FORM OF A LEASE. 

Je * proprietaire (or) principal locataire de-maison, la lone a 

-j ( or ) A Madame-, (or) loue a M.-, (or) A Madame_ 

boutique--appartement,-chambre, au- etage, dans ladite 

maison ( describing them accurately ), pour-annees, qui commence- 

ront A courir cC jourd’hui (or the day), pour-prix ( the amount) 

payable a (the time of payment), et sous toutes les obligations imnosees 
aux locataires et reglees par le code civil. 

Et moi ( the lessee) prends la presente location comme et ainsi au’elle 

est ci-dessus stipulee. Fait double entre nous, A-le_mil huit 

cent quarante—. (Th ' siana \ UYP . * 

RECEIPT FOR RENT. sijnalures.) 

Je soussigne, proprietaire de-maison, sise rue__ N°_ (or) 

principal locataire, (or) fonde de la procuration de M..—I proprie’taire 

de maison situee, etc., ladite procuration en date du--ddment 

enregistree, reconnais avoir re 5 u de M.-, locataire de-apparte¬ 
ment au-etage, (or) d’une boutique de ladite maison, la somme de 

- pour trois (or) pour six mois (or) pour un an, des lovers dudit 

appartement par lui occupe, echus le-, et la somme de —— pour sa 

contribution de portes et fenAlres; dont quittance, sans prejudice du 
terme courant (or) de l’annee courante (or) pour solde du dernier lerme 
de loyer dudit M.-. 

A Paris, ce-, mil huit cent quarante-. ( The signature.) 


(gsa&saaa aaa* 

PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS. 

SCIENTIFIC AND LITERARY. 

INSTITUT DE FRANCE.—The National Convention, by a 
decree ol 1793, abolished all the literary and scientific societies. 








PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS. 7* 

denominated academies, established during the reigns of 
Louis XIII. and Louis XIV.; and the arts and sciences seemed 
condemned to oblivion. After the fall of Robespierre, however, 
the Convention, upon the proposition of the Abbe Gregoire, ap¬ 
pointed a committee for the preservation of the monuments of 
France; ordained the creation of the Polytechnic and Normal 
schools, the opening of the colleges, and founded the Conserva¬ 
toire de Musique, the Conservatoire des Arts et Metiers, etc. By 
a decree of October 26, 1795 (3d Brumaire, an IV.), the Con¬ 
vention founded the Institute to replace the former academies, 
and the Direct ory appointed a certain number of members, who 
in their turn invited to join them such persons as they consi¬ 
dered worthy. The institute was originally divided into three 
classes : the first, of physical and mathematical sciences; the 
second, of moral and political sciences; and the third, of litera¬ 
ture and the fine arts. Bonaparte, who was elected a member 
of the mathematical section of the Institute, on the 26th of De¬ 
cember, 1797, having become Consul, divided the Institute into 
four classes, in 1803 : the first comprehended the physical and 
mathematical sciences; the second had for its object the French 
language and literature; the third ancient history and literature; 
and the fourth, the tine arts. Upon the Restoration, Louis XVIII. 
issued an ordonnance, dated March 21, 1816, by which, for the 
four classes of the Institute, four academies were substituted : 
viz. 1. the Academie Francaise; 2. the Academie Royale des In¬ 
scriptions et Belles-Lettres; 3. the Academie Royale des Sciences; 
4. the Academie Royale des Reaux-Arts, and some of the most 
celebrated members being dismissed, others were substituted 
by royal nomination, and the academies were taken under the 
special protection of the king. In 1832, a fifth Academie, under 
the name of Academie des Sciences Morales et Politiques, was 
refounded. The funds common to all the academies are managed 
by a committee of 10 members, two from each academy, pre¬ 
sided by the Minister of Public Instruction. The nominations to 
vacant places are balloted for in each academy, subject to the 
approval of the king. The members of one academy are eligible 
to all the others, and in the proceedings and discussions in which 
they can take part. Each receives a salary of 1500 fr. Every 
time a member attends, he receives a counter to denote that he 
was present ; were he not to attend during the year he is ex¬ 
posed to a pecuniary mulct, and if he do not give satisfactory 
reasons for frequent absence, he is liable to expulsion. Each 
academy has its special rules and funds. The library, etc., are 
common to the five academies. The Institute comprises 217 
members, besides 7 secretaries, 43 free academicians, who 
receive no salary, 33 associates, and 220 correspondents. 


72 


INTRODUCTION. 


The Academie Francaise consists of 40 members; this section 
is specially charged with the composition of the Dictionary, and 
the extension and purification of the language. It adjudges an 
annual prize of 2000 fr. for poetry or eloquence, besides two 
annual prizes founded by M. Montyon, one for the work most 
useful to public morals, and another for some distinguished act 
of virtue displayed by one of the lower classes of society; it 
likewise awards a prize each year, given by M. Gobert, of 
10,000 fr. for the most eloquent work on French history, and 
accords a gratuity of 1,500 fr. every alternate year, the gift of 
Count Maille de la Tourlanderie, to some deserving but indigent 
young man of letters. Its meetings are held publicly every 
Thursday at 2 p. m. 


The Academie des Inscriptions et Belles-Lettres is also com¬ 
posed of 40 members, and 10 free academicians, besides foreign 
associates and correspondents. The learned languages, antiqui¬ 
ties, and monuments, are the objects of their researches and 
labours. Their attention is particularly directed to the transla¬ 
tion of Greek, Latin, and Oriental works into the French lan¬ 
guage, and to the formation of archaeological collections. (1) 
This academy adjudges an annual prize of 2,000 fr. for memoirs 
and another for medals, founded by M. Hauteroche. It meets 
on Fridays at 2 p. m. 

The Academie des Sciences contains 05 members (including the 
two secretaries), 10 free academicians, and 8 foreign associates 
among whom are Mr. Farraday and Mr. Brown, besides corre¬ 
spondents. It is divided into 11 sections, as follows : — geometry 
6 members; mechanics, 6; astronomy, 6; geography and navi¬ 
gation, 3; general philosophy, 6; chemistry, 0; mineralogy, 6* 
botany, 6; rural economy and the veterinary art, 0; anatomy 
and zoology 6; medicine and surgery, 6. The annual prizes 
adjudged by this academy are 1 of 3,000 fr. for physical sciences • 
1 tor statistics; 1 for experimental physiology; and 1 for mecha¬ 
nics. it also adjudges prizes for improvements in medicine and 
surgery; for discoveries relative to the treatment of patients- 
lor the means of rendering any art or trade less insalubrious • for 
works or discoveries published in the course of the year upon 
objects ol utility; and one by M. Delalande for the principal 

o Thls Ac . adem y P« b,is h es —i. Ses Memoires, 4 to, more than 65 vols • 

2. Les Memoires qui lui sont presentes par divers savants, 4to l vol • 

3 . Les Notices des Manuscrits, 4 to, 16 vols.; 4. Les Memoires’sur les 
Antiquites de la i ranee, 4 to, l vol.; 5. L’hisloire litteraire de la France 

volh - ;6 r Collect,on des Histoires de France, folio, 20 vols.- 7 Les’ 
Hisloires des Croisades, Orientals, Grecques et Latines, folio., 3 vols • 
8. Les Ordonnances des Rois de France, 20 vols • 9 Les Clnrioc pi n n ’ 
cuments re.aUfs a 1 ’Histoire de France, et les £?&£ des Rois de France' 

folio, 2 vols., io. Le Catalogue des Charles, folio, 4 vols. ’ 


PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS. 73 

astronomical discovery or observation. To these have lately 
been added a yearly prize of 2,000 fr. for the advancement of 
mathematical science one year, and that of the physical sciences 
the next, alternately; also a yearly prize, founded by the widow 
de La Place, the astronomer, to Hie most meritorious pupil 
°t the year in the Ecole Polytechnique. (1) Public meetings every 
Monday, at 2 p. m. & j 

the Academic des Beaux-Arts is composed of 41 members, 
including the perpetual secretary, and 10 free academicians, 
besides associates. It is divided into live sections, viz. paint- 
mg, Li members; sculpture, 8; architecture, 8; engraving, 4; 
musical composition, 6. It also distributes annual prizes for the 
best works ol students in the arts, and those who are successful 
are sent to the French academy at Rome, and educated at the 
expense of the slate. Meetings every Saturday, at 2 p. m. 

The Academie des Sciences Morales et Politiques, restored by 
an ordonnance of the King (26th October, 1832), is composed of 
30 academicians, divided into 5 sections:—philosophy; moral 
philosophy; legislation, public right, and jurisprudence; poli¬ 
tical economy and statistics; history and the philosophy of his¬ 
tory. At least one annual prize is given. This academy has 
5 free academicians and also 5 foreign associates, among whom 
are Lord Brougham, Mr. Hallam, and Mr. M‘Culloch. It meets 
on Saturdays, at noon. 

A perpetual secretary is attached to each academy, except to 
that of sciences, which has two. 

BUREAU DES LONGITUDES.—This society, formed in 1795, 
for the discovery of methods for the more accurate determi¬ 
nation of longitudes at sea, and for the improvement of navi¬ 
gation by means of astronomical observations, holds its meet¬ 
ings at the Observatory. It is composed of 2 mathematicians, 
4 astronomers, 4 adjunct astronomers, 2 navigators, 1 geographer, 
and 2 instrument-makers. It has at its disposal the Paris Obser¬ 
vatory (where its members meet), and all the astronomical in¬ 
struments belonging to government. It corresponds with the 
other observatories of France, and with those of foreign coun¬ 
tries; and suggests to the government where it is desirable to 
establish others. The Bureau is charged to draw up a work 
called Connaissance des Temps, or account of the motion of 
the celestial bodies, for the use of astronomers and navigators, 
and to publish it several years beforehand. It revises and corrects 
the astronomical tables and methods of longitudes, and devotes 
its attention to the publication of astronomical and meteorolo- 

(l) This Academy publishes—l. Les Proces-Verbaux de ses Seances, 
4 to, every Monday; 2 . LeRecueil de ses Mcmoires; 3 . Un Recueil de 
Memoires preseuies par divers savanls. 


7 


INTRODUCTION. 


74 

gical observations. One of the members delivers annually a 
public course of lectures on astronomy. The bureau publishes 
every year the Annuaire du Bureau des Longitudes , and the Con- 
naissance des Temps. 

ACADEMIE ROY ALE DE MEDECINE.—Previous to the Re¬ 
volution, there was an Academy of Medicine and another of 
Surgery. The former was created in 177G, and the latter in 1731. 
Upon the formation of the Institute, the Medical Academy was 
annexed to the class of the sciences. Ry an ordonnance of De¬ 
cember 20,1820, the Academy was restored. The object of its 
institution is to reply to inquiries of the government relative to 
everything that concerns the public health. It was definitively 
organized by royal ordonnances in 1829 and in 1836; and con¬ 
sists of 139 resident members, 14 free members, 25 country mem¬ 
bers, and 19 foreign associates. The number of its correspon¬ 
dents is unlimited. The Academy holds public sittings every 
Tuesday, at 3 o’clock, at 8, rue de Poitiers. 

UNIVERSITY OF FRANCE.—The large and flourishing Uni¬ 
versity of Paris was founded, it is said, by Charlemagne; its early 
celebrity, and the important part which it bore in the history 
not only of Paris, but also of France, are well known. The num¬ 
ber ol universities in France, at the commencement of the Re¬ 
volution, waslO or 12, independent of the various colleges and 
schools founded by different religious orders; but at that period 
the whole were dissolved. After various attempts to supply their 
place by the establishment of primary, secondary, and central 
schools in the departments, government adopted a plan of public 
education entirely new. For the courts of justice, which had 
succeeded to the ancient Parlements established in various parts 
of France, 26 courts of appeal were created in the principal 
towns, and the whole Ordre Judiciaire was made subordinate 
to a grand judge, Minister of Justice. In like manner, one im¬ 
perial university, consisting of as many academies as there were 
courts of appeal, was established for all France, under the 
direction of a council and a grand master. Upon the restora¬ 
tion in 1814, Louis XVIII. abolished the office of grand judge, 
but retained the courts of appeal, now called Cours Royales ; 
and at the same time did away with the council and grand mas¬ 
ter of the university, but kept up the academies. The council 
was afterwards re-established under the title of Conseil Royal 
de VInstruction Publique, and placed under the authority of the 
Minister of the Interior; and in 1822, the office of grand master, 
who is also Minister of Public Instruction, was restored. The 
council consists of 9 members, including the secretary. There 
are also 22 inspectors-general of studies. An academy in France 
therefore includes, in general, every establishment for educa- 


PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS. 75 

lion; and none whatever can be created without the permission 
of the Itoyal Council of Public Instruction. The University is 
composed as follows:—1. les Facultes; 2. les Colleges Royaux 
et les Colleges Communaux ; 3. les Institutions et Pensions; 
4. les Fcoles Primaires. The University possesses a library, 
which is placed at the Sorbonne, and has special funds for 
granting pensions to superannuated and infirm teachers. 

The Academy of Paris consists of 5 faculties—Sciences, Letters 
Theology, Law, and Medicine. The 3 first are established at 
the Sorbonne, and comprise the following professorships 

Sciences : physical astronomy, mathematical astronomy, (1) 
differential and integral calculus, algebra, mechanics, chemis¬ 
try, mineralogy, botany, zoology, and comparative physiology, 
with 8 supplementary professorships. To obtain the following 
degrees the candidates must be bachelier es lettres, and must 
pass the following examinations : Bachelier es sciences mathe- 
matiques : arithmetic, geometry, and algebra, plane trigono¬ 
metry, analytical geometry, and the elements of physics, as 
taught in the royal colleges. Bachelier es sciences physiques : 
elementary mathematics of 1st year of philosophy; elements 
of physics, chemistry, and the three branches of natural his¬ 
tory, according to the programmes of the royal colleges. Li¬ 
cence es sciences mathematiques : differential and integral cal¬ 
culus, and mechanics. Licencid es sciences physiques : chemis¬ 
try and physics. Licencie' es sciences naturelles : mineralogy 
botany, geology, and zoology. To become a licentiate, the de¬ 
gree of bachelor must have been taken, and two courses of the 
faculty in the same year must have been followed. Docteur es 
sciences : candidates are required to sustain two theses on the 
subjects of one of the three licentiates’ examinations.— Letters : 
Greek literature, Latin eloquence, Latin poetry, French elo¬ 
quence, French literature and poetry, philosophy, history of 
ancient philosophy, history of modern philosophy, ancient his¬ 
tory, modern history, geography, foreign literature, besides 
7 supplementary professorships. To obtain the degree of Ba¬ 
chelier es lettres, the candidate must be 16 years of age at least, 
and produce a certificate of having attended a course of rhe¬ 
toric, and one or two distinct annual courses of philosophy. (2> 
Licencie es lettres : the candidate must he a bachelor of one 
year’s standing, and have taken four inscriptions in the faculty. 
The examination consists of compositions in French, Latin, 
and Greek, and in literary, philosophical, and historical ques¬ 
tions. Docteur es lettres : he must be a licentiate, and sustain 

(1) This chair is at present filled by the celebrated M. Leverrier, the 
theoretical discoverer of the new planet situated beyond Uranus. 

(2) See “ Manuel du Baccalaureat es Lettres.” 


76 INTRODUCTION. 

two theses; one in Latin on a philosophical subject, the other 
in French on a subject of ancient or modern literature. — 
Theology : dogmatic theology, morality, sacred scriptures, ec¬ 
clesiastical law, sacred eloquence, Hebrew, with 5 supplemen¬ 
tary professors. The degrees of bachelor, licentiate, and doc¬ 
tor, are also conferred in this faculty. By an ordonnance of 
Dec. 25, 1830, no one can he a professor of theology without 
having taken the degree of doctor in that faculty; nor curate of 
a chief town of a department, or any higher functionary in the 
church, without being a licentiate; nor curate of a chief town 
of a canton without being bachelor, unless the functions of curate 
or officiating minister have been performed by him for 10 years. 

The Faculty of Law is established at theEcole de Droit, Place 
du Pantheon. There are 17 professors and 8 supplementary 
ones, who lecture on the Civil code; civil and criminal proce¬ 
dure, and criminal legislation; commercial code; administrative 
law; French constitutional law; law of nations ; Roman law ; 
Pandects; history of law. To he admitted to follow these 
courses the student must bring a diploma of bachelier es let - 
tres. To graduate ih this faculty students must be bacheliers es 
lettres, and fulfil certain conditions of entering their names, etc. 
Bachelier en droit : two examinations are necessary for this 
degree, which is taken at the end of the second year; the first 
in the civil code and the institutes of Justinian ; the second in 
the civil code, and the codes of procedure, penal laws, and cri¬ 
minal process. Licencie en droit: a third year’s study is requi¬ 
site for this degree, and two examinations, besides a public act, 
one in Roman law, the other in civil and commercial codes, 
and in administrative law. Docteur en droit : a fourth year is 
necessary for this degree; two examinations and a public act; 
one in Roman law, the other in the civil code, the law of na¬ 
tions, the history of law, and constitutional law. 

The Faculty of Medicine, Place de l’Ecole de Medecine, is 
composed of 2G professors, chosen by concours, but subject 
to the approval of the Minister of Public Instruction. They all 
receive a fixed salary from the government, varying from 
2,000 to 10,000 fr. A dean, the head of the faculty, is elected 
. every five years. (1) This faculty confers only the degree of 
doctor, for which a candidate must be a bachelier es lettres, 


(I) The following is a list of the professorships, with the names of the 
gentlemen attached to them Anatomy, Denonvilliers, Palholoi/ical 
Anatomy Cruveilhier; Physiology, Pierre Berard; Medical Chemistry, 
Orbla; Medical Physics, Gavarret; Pharmacy and Organic Chemisiru 
Dumas; Hygiene, Boyer Collard; Medical Natural History Richard- 
Operations and Bandages, Blandin; External Pathology, Marjolin and 
Gerdy; Internal Pathology, Dumeril and Piorry ; General Pathology 


PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS. 77 

and pass an examination at the end of his first year, for which 
he must have obtained the diploma of bachelier es sciences; a 
second at the end of his third; and three other examinations, 
with a public thesis, at the end of his fourth. Before obtaining 
his degree he must have served a year in an hospital. There 
are certain fixed periods of the year for entering names, etc. 
The number of inscriptions for 184G was 3183. ( See Preface.) 

To all the above faculties a certain number of professeurs- 
agrege’s, or assistant professors, are attached, from among 
whom the regular professors are chosen. The salaries of the 
professors vary from 2,000 fr. to 8,000 fr. All their lectures 
are public and gratuitous. Foreigners are admitted to them 
under certain regulations, which may be known on application 
at the seats of the faculties. (1) 

The numbers of the students attending the faculties of the 
University of Paris cannot be exactly ascertained. For the 
courses of law they amount to about 3,000, those for medicine 
3,000; and from l,200 to 1,500 for the sciences. By a decree 
in 1840, of the Royal Council of Public Instruction, foreigners 
wishing to follow the courses of lectures of the faculties of 
law, letters, medicine, or the sciences, will be admitted to take 
out their first inscription on producing certificates of study or 
examinations, or other documents required in their own coun¬ 
tries for admission into faculties of the same order, after these 
certificates have been recognised as equivalent to the French 
diploma of bachelier es lettres. The University also confers di¬ 
plomas in foreign languages. Every second year the Minister 
of Public Instruction names four committees for ttie examina¬ 
tion of candidates in English, German, Italian, and Spanish. Six 
classic authors are chosen in each language; the examinations 
consist, 1st, in written themes and versions; 2d, in oral trans¬ 
lations and argumentations; 3d, in a public lesson given extem¬ 
pore by each candidate, and argumentation thereon. The suc- 

and Therapeutics, Andral; Therapeutics and Materia Medica, Trous¬ 
seau ; Legal Medicine, Adelon .• Obstetrics and Female Diseases, Moreau ; 
Clinical Medicine at the Hospitals, Fouquier and Bouillaud, at la Cha- 
rite, and Chomel and Rostan at ihe Hdlel-Dieu ; Clinical Surgery at the 
Hospital, Roux at the Hdtel-Dieu, Cloquet at the ITdpital de Clinique, 
Velpeau at the Charite, and Valant at La Pitie; Clinical Obstetrics, Du¬ 
bois at the Hdpital de Clinique. 

(l) In France there are 6 faculties of catholic theology, established at 
Paris, Rouen, Bordeaux, Lyon, Aix, and Toulouse; and 2 of proles land 
theology, at Strasburg and Montpellier. There are 9 faculties of law, at 
Paris, Caen, Dijon, Grenoble, Toulouse, Aix, Poitiers, Rennes, and 
Strasburg. Three faculties of medicine, at Paris, Montpellier, and 
Strasburg. Six faculties of sciences and letters, at Paris, Caen, Dijon, 
Grenoble, Montpellier, and Bordeaux. 


78 


INTRODUCTION. 


eessful candidates obtain the exclusive right of teaching in the 
Royal Colleges. 

COLLEGES AND SCHOOLS.^-College Royal de France, 1, 
Place Cambray, instituted in 1530 by Francois I.—At this college 
28 professors give public and gratuitous lectures on the fol¬ 
lowing subjects astronomy; mathematics; general and expe¬ 
rimental philosophy; medicine; chemistry; natural history; 
natural, comparative, and national law; history and ethics; 
the Hebrew, Chaldee, Syriac, Arabic, Persian, Turkish, Chinese, 
Mantchou-Tarlar, and Sanscrit languages; Greek literature; 
Greek and Latin philosophy; Latin eloquence; Latin poetry; 
French literature; political economy; archaeology; history of 
legislation; Sclavonic languages and literature, languages of 
Germanic origin; literature of the south of Europe. 

Musee Royal d’Histoire Naturelle, Jardin des Plantes.—A 
college or body of 15 professors gives lectures on the following 
subjects; zoology, mammiferae and birds; zoology, reptiles and 
fishes; zoology, molluscae and zoophytes; zoology, articulated 
animals; anatomy; comparative anatomy; general chemistry; 
practical chemistry; mineralogy; geology; botany; vegetable 
physiology; rural botany; cultivation of plants; physics applied 
to natural history. To these are added 1 honorary professor, 15 
assistant preparers, 1 librarian, and other officers, besides 2 mas¬ 
ters for instruction in drawing and painting flowers, and an es¬ 
tablishment of painters of objects of natural history, botany, etc. 

Conservatoire des Artset Metiers, 208, rue St. Martin.—This 
establishment, especially intended for the industrial education 
of manufacturers, mechanics, and other workmen, contains, ac¬ 
cording to the last regulations, 10 professorships of application 
of geometry; mechanics; descriptive geometry; application of 
inorganic chemistry; application of organic chemistry and 
physics; agriculture; industrial economy; industrial legislation, 
besides a preparatory school in the above branches. The ex¬ 
penses are supported either entirely or in part by the Stale, 
besides boarders. The lectures are at present suspended, on 
account of the partial reconstruction of the buildings, but will 
probably recommence in 1848. 

Fcole Normale, 21, rue d’Ulm.—This institution is intended 
for the education of young men who wish to become candidates 
for professorships. To be admitted, they must be between the 
ages of 17 and 23, must have taken the degrees of bachelier 
es lettres, or bachelier es sciences, and must have terminated 
their studies, philosophy included, in a royal college or in a 
“ college communal de plein exercice. ” The course of educa¬ 
tion in this school lasts three years. The establishment is ad¬ 
ministered by G directors, and has 27 professors, who govern 






PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS. 79 

the institution under the immediate control of the Minister and 
Council Royal of Public Instruction, (1) 

Besides these, there are in Paris five royal colleges, between 
the pupils of which, and the royal college of Versailles, there 
is a general competition for prizes at the end of each scholastic 
year. To this effect eight or ten pupils of each class who have 
most distinguished themselves are selected, and the adjudica¬ 
tion of the prizes is conducted with great pomp at the Sor- 
bonne, in the presence of the whole corps universitaire. The 
terms for board are 1,000 fr. a-year, besides 60 fr. tor college 
dues, and 46 fr. for university fees. Music, dancing, etc., are 
extra charges. The royal colleges are each governed by an 
inspecteur-general des eludes, a proviseur, to whom is joined 
a censeur des etudes, and a steward. The colleges which re¬ 
ceive boarders have also a chaplain, and two assistant chap¬ 
lains. The pupils of the institutions and pensions are obliged 
to attend the lectures in the royal colleges; and such as have 
private tutors are also admitted. The course of education com¬ 
prises the Greek, Latin, English, and German languages; philo¬ 
sophy, physics, belles-lettres, mathematics, history, geography, 
writing, drawing, and music. The masters of authorized board¬ 
ing-schools and academies pay but 16 fr. per annum for college 
dues, in addition to 46 fr. paid for university fees. When classes 
are very numerous they are formed into two divisions.—The fol¬ 
lowing is a list of the Royal Colleges : College Royal de Louis 
le Grand, 123, rue St. Jacques; 40 professors, comprising four 
lecturers on the Arabic, Turkish, and Persian languages; 630 
boarders, and 640 day-scholars. — College Royal de Henry IV., 
rue Clovis; 38 professors, 476 boarders, and 384 day-scholars. 
— College Royal de St. Louis, 94, rue de la Harpe; 36 profes¬ 
sors, 286 boarders, and 696 day-scholars.— College Royal de 
Charlemagne, 120, rue St. Antoine; 33 professors, 870 day- 
pupils.— College Royal de Bourbon, 6, rue Sle. Croix d’Anlin; 
26 professors, and 1180 day-pupils. (2) 

(1) Alt towns possessing faculties have also normal schools for pro¬ 
viding the royal colleges with masters and elementary teachers ; also the 
communal colleges with masters and regents. They are called Ecoles 
Normales Supdrieures. 

(2) In the departments there are royal colleges in all great towns. In 
small towns the colleges are called colleges comrnunaux ; these are pri¬ 
vate establishments aided by the commune, and subject to the surveil¬ 
lance of the authorities. The accounts of the university, as to the 
number of students and the amounts of the fees received for their edu¬ 
cation, during the last scholastic year, show the following number of 
students:—Inthe4i royal colleges,23,270;317 communal colleges,37,045. 
101 institutions, 8,378; 1,007 boarding-schools, 23,538; total, 92,231 ; and 
the sums received amounted to upwards of 2,r*QO,ooo fr. 


80 INTRODUCTION. 

Of the private establishments of a similar nature, the follow¬ 
ing are the most considerable : College Stanislas, 28, rue Notre 
Dame des Champs; 18 professors, and 350 boarders : College 
Rollin, 34, rue des Posies, 19 professors, and 420 boarders : 
College Ste. Barbe, place du Pantheon, 50 professors, and GOO 
boarders. The Colle'ge des Irlandais, 3, rue des Irlandais, is a 
Catholic Institution for young Irish priests. 

SPECIAL SCHOOLS.—Besides the colleges before mentioned, 
there are a number of schools for special purposes founded in 
Paris, mostly by government; of these we subjoin a list. 

Ecole Polytechnique, rue Descartes, Montagne Ste. Genevieve. 
— A decree of the National Convention, dated 21 Ventose, an II. 
(March 11, 1794), created a Commission des Travaux Publics, 
and an Ecole Centrale, the latter of which, by a decree of the 
15th Fructidor, an III. (September 1, 1795), took the name of 
Ecole Polytechnique. The object of this most useful and justly- 
celebrated institution is to form pupils for the artillery, engi¬ 
neering, the marine service, bridges and highways, mining, 
telegraphs, and other departments, into which persons cannot 
be admitted without having studied in this school. A great 
number of excellent officers, engineers, and scientific men have 
been educated in this establishment. Pupils are admitted from 
the age of 10 to 20. They must be French by birth, or natura¬ 
lized, and free from any physical defect which might render 
them unfit for service. Every year candidates for admission 
undergo a very severe examination in Paris and the depart¬ 
ments. The terms are 1000 fr. a-year, the pupils also pro¬ 
viding themselves with a uniform, books, and other objects ne¬ 
cessary for the pursuit of their studies. The King has founded 
24 scholarships, of which 8 are in the nomination of the Minister 
of the Interior, 12 of the Minister of War, and 4 of the Minister 
of the Marine. The affairs of the school are under the super¬ 
intendence of a council of amelioration, a council of instruction, 
and a council of administration. The period allowed for study 
is two years, to which, in certain cases a third year is added. 
The number of pupils is about 300. Strangers cannot visit this 
school without permission from the Minister of War. (1) It pos¬ 
sesses a Library of 20,000 volumes. There is an Ecole d’Ap- 
plication at Metz, to which 100 pupils passed in 1840 from the 
metropolitan institution. 

Ecole Royale des Ponts et Chaussees, 24, rue des Saints Peres. 
—This school consists of about 100 pupils, taken from the Ecole 
Polylechnique, who receive instruction in the art of projecting 
and constructing routes, canals, bridges, etc., also whatever 

(0 The fullest information on this remarkable institution will be 
found in the publication called “ Programme des Eludes.” 


PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS. 81 

concerns the different branches of civil engineering. Each 
pupil is allowed a salary of 1200 fr. 

Ecole d’Etat-Major, 130, rue de Grenelle.—This school is 
destined to form pupils for the staff-service. The usual term of 
study is two years, when those pupils who have passed the 
examinations with honour are appointed in their turns, as va¬ 
cancies occur, to lieutenancies of the staff, hut are attached 
during four years to infantry or cavalry regiments of the line. 

Ecole des Mines, 34, rue d’Enfer.— At its head is a Conseil 
des Mines, composed of 8 inspectors, which directs all affairs 
relating to mining operations. Lectures are given in geology 
and mineralogy during six months, commencing in December. 
Each pupil has an allowance of 900 fr. a-year. 

Ecoles Royales Veterinaires, et Rergeries Royales.— The 
former are three in number, at Alforl near Paris, at Lyons, and 
at Toulouse. The latter, for the breeding and treatment of 
cattle, are at Rambouillet, Perpignan, La Itaye Yaux (Vosges), 
and Mont Carmel, Pas-de-Calais. 

Ecole desChartes, at the Palais des Archives, rue du Chaume. 
—This institution was founded by Louis XVIII., for encouraging 
the study of tbe ancient manuscripts contained in the different 
libraries, and the depots of the archives of the kingdom. It 
has lately been removed from the Bibliolheque Royale to its 
present situation, and been considerably increased. Three 
professors and four assistant-professors give lectures daily on 
palaeography, and the art of decyphering ancient documents. 
The number of pupils is unlimited ; to be admitted as such the 
candidate must have the degree of bachelor, and undergo an 
examination; his age must not be under 18, nor exceed 25. 
The establishment is open daily from 10 to 4; it consists of an 
elegant lecture-room for 100 pupils, a small library with desks, 
where students are at liberty to study between lectures, and 
a few other apartments. The students who distinguish them¬ 
selves receive from the Minister of Public Instruction an allow¬ 
ance of 000 fr. yearly, till they obtain places. 

Ecoles des Langues Orientales Vivantes, at the King’s Li¬ 
brary, 12, rue Neuve des Petits Champs.—10 professors are at¬ 
tached to this establishment, and lecture publicly and gratui¬ 
tously on the following languagesPure and Vulgar Arabic, Per¬ 
sian, Turkish, Armenian, Modern Creek and Greek palaeography, 
Hindoostanee, Thibetani, Vulgar Chinese, Malay, and Javanese. 

Ecole de Pharmacie, 13, rue de l’Arbalete.—There are 10 pro¬ 
fessors attached to this school, who lecture on drugs, chemistry, 
natural history, and botany. Apothecaries must be examined 
at this school before they can practise as such. 

Ecole des Reaux Arts, 10, rue des Petits Augustins.—This 


82 INTRODUCTION. 

school is divided into 2 sections, painting and sculpture, and 
architecture. Lectures are given gratuitously on every sub¬ 
ject connected with the arts by 20 professors. Annual prizes 
are distributed in the various branches of art; the first prizes 
entitle the successful candidate to study at Rome at the expense 
of the state, and to pass 4 months at Athens. 

Ecole Royale Gratuite de Dessin, de Mathematique, et de 
Sculpture d’Ornement, en faveur des arts meeaniques, 5, rue de 
l’Ecole de Medecine.—This institution is for the instruction of 
artisans in drawing and architecture ; lectures are also given 
on geometry, arithmetic, mensuration, limber-culling, etc. 

Ecole Royale, Speciale, et Gratuite de Dessin pour les Jeunes 
Personnes, 7, rue de Touraine.—This school, for the instruc¬ 
tion of young women intended for the arts or manual pro¬ 
fessions, affords the means of studying figures, landscapes, 
flowers, etc. (1) 

Ecole Centrale des Arts et Manufactures, 1 , rue des Cou¬ 
tures St. Gervais, founded in 1828, and established on the plan 
of the old Ecole Polyteclmique, for the education of persons 
intended for civil engineers, directors of manufactories, build¬ 
ers, and teachers of the application of the sciences. 

Ecole et Maison d’Accouchement, 3, rue du Port Royal.—This 
hospital, which occupies the buildings of the Abbey of Port 
Royal, rendered famous by the Jesuits and Pascal, was devoted 
to public uses in 1796. It contains in all 514 beds, of which 
370 are for patients, 50 for children, and 94 for pupils. Women 
are generally received here in their last month of pregnancy, 
but, in case of urgency or distress, they may be admitted in 
their eighth month, on promising to take charge of their 
offspring. They are attended in their confinement by women, 
or, if need be, by the surgeons of the institution; and, unless 
their health will not admit of it, are removed from the hospital 
after the expiration of ten days from their confinement. If, in 
spite of the promise above mentioned, a woman refuses to lake 

(l) An Ecole gratuite de Dessin has been established by MM. Charles 
and Dupre, at 1 30, faubourg St. Antoine. It is open on Tuesdays, 
Thursdays, and Saturdays, at io in the evening, and is assiduously 
frequented by laborious workmen. The Prefect of the Seine, at a public 
meeting and distribution of prizes, slated that the first school of the 
kind was founded in May, 1830, in the Faubourg St. Antoine. It was 
shortly followed by another, in the quartier St. Avoye, and by one for 
adult females, by Mme. Charles. At present these three schools contain 
upwards of 700 pupils; there are also 2,400 pupils in the gratuitous Ecole 
Royale of Design, and in five other similar schools founded by the City 
of Paris; and in counting the pupils of the different primary schools, 
and those of the Polytechnic Association, who also receive lessons of 
Design, the total number is upwards of 10 , 000 , all of whom are adults. 


PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS. §3 

charge of her child, a commissary of police is called in, who 
draws up the necessary declaration, and the child is sent to 
the Hopital des Enfants Trouves. If, on the contrary, a woman 
takes her child home, she receives a small sum of money, and 
is furnished with a supply of clothing. Works of different kinds 
are provided for the women received here. The mean term 
of a patient’s abode here is 18 days. Medical students are ex¬ 
cluded from this hospital, which is devoted to the instruction 
of young women educating as sages-femmes ( Ecole pour les 
Eleves Sages-Femmes ). The average number of pupils is 80, 
some of whom are maintained at their own expense, others by 
different departments of France. 600 fr. a-year is the charge 
for board and instruction. After a course of two years, the 
pupils are examined by a jury, composed of the professor in 
chief and the physicians of the hospital, a commissary of the 
Faculty of Medicine, and a commissary of the Council-general 
of Hospitals, and are allowed to practise on receiving a diploma. 
The number of licensed sages-femmes is about 450. Strangers 
are not allowed to inspect the hospital without a permission 
from the director, seldom granted, except to some medical 
man of eminence. The average number of patients received 
here is 4000, and the mortality nearly l in 16. The average cost 
of the birth of a child is 55 fr. Physicians, Drs. Moreau and 
Gerardin; surgeons, Messrs. P. Dubois and Danyau; chief mid¬ 
wife, Mine. Charrier. 

Ecole Speciale du Commerce, 22, boulevard des Filles du 
Calvaire.—This school was founded in 1820 by the late Casimir 
Perier, and by Messrs. Chaplal, Ternaux, and Jacques Laffitle. 
More than 3000 pupils have, since its foundation, received a 
practical commercial education, at an expense for board and 
instruction varying according to age from 1,200 fr. to 1,400 fr. 
annually. A similar institution, under the title of Ecole du 
Commerce et des Arts Industrials, is at 95, rue de Charonne. 

Conservatoire de Musique et de Declamation Lyrique, 11, 
faubourg Poissonniere.—This institution was founded for the 
instruction of young persons of both sexes in singing, music, etc* 
A numerous body of the first professors of both sexes give 
gratuitous instruction here to more than 500 pupils, and a very 
valuable musical library, open daily to the public from 10 to 3, 
is also attached to this establishment. 

Ecoles d’Eqcitation.— The best are at 95 bis, rue St. Lazare; 
10, rue Duphot; and 42, faubourg Montmartre. 

Gymnase, 6, rue Jean Goujon, Champs Elysees.—At this in¬ 
stitution, conducted by M. Amoros, instruction is given to pupils 
of both sexes in gymnastic exercises. It is very well attended. 

Societe des Amis de l’Enfance. —This society, formed for the 


INTRODUCTION. 


84 

prolection and instruction of male children, is under the pro¬ 
tection ofliis Royal Highness the Comte de Paris. For admis¬ 
sion address to Secretary of Council, 24, Place St. Germain 
FAuxerrois. 

Institutions and Pensions. —These establishments correspond 
to academies and hoarding-schools in England, but are under 
the superintendence of the Royal Council of Public Instruction. 
In Paris there arc 60 Institutions or preparatory schools for the 
colleges, and 217 Pensions. The number of Institutions for 
young ladies is 167, and of Pensions 131. There are besides in 
the rest of the department of the Seine a considerable number 
of institutions and pensions for male and female education, 
exclusive of Hie smaller schools, which in Paris and its vicinity 
amount to more than 500. For a list of the best, see Directory. 

Ecoles Primaires Suderieures de la Ville de Paris. —The 
name of these schools indicates their object. They form the 
fourth class under the direction of the Royal Council of Public 
Instruction. There are two for boys, and one for girls. 

Ecole Municipals de Francois I., 34, rue de Clichy, and 29, 
rue Blanche.—This establishment is intended for youths destin¬ 
ed for commerce, manufactures, and business generally. French 
and foreign languages, history, geography, cosmography, ele¬ 
mentary and descriptive geometry, algebra, geology, minera¬ 
logy, chemistry, natural philosophy and history, mechanics, 
the study of unwrought materials, technology, surveying, per¬ 
spective, and singing, form the subjects of instruction. It is 
under the control of a director and 6 members of the Municipal 
Council. The indoor pupils pay 1,000 fr. a-year, everything 
included. The out-door pupils are charged 200 fr., or 1 50 fr. 
if only the higher branches be required. Director, M. Goubaud. 

Adult Schools. —There are in the department of the Seine 54 
schoois or classes for adults, containing 8,000 pupils in Paris, 
371 in the arrondissement of St. Denis, and 1,085 in that of 
Sceaux. The schools in Paris are 30. The pupils receive gra¬ 
tuitous instruction in reading, writing, arithmetic, grammar, 
drawing, geometry, vocal music, etc., every evening rom 8 till 
10, so as not to interfere with their avocations. 

Ouvroirs.— These are useful establishments kept up by the 
administration of hospitals for furnishing work to young girls; 
there are 1 or more in each arrondissement; their total number 
is 30, and the children frequenting them are 1,625. The cost 
of these establishments, including the adult schools, is 646,776 fr. 
per annum. 

Of the Ecoles Primaires for children, there are, for boys, 26 
Ecoles Mutuelles and 28 Ecoles Simullanees; for girls, 29 Ecoles 
Mutuelles, and 27 Ecoles Simultanees. The expense of all the 


PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS. 85 

nno!f S 1> m m ? il,e f 10 lhe muni c»pality is about 1,020,000 fr. an- 
nualiy. l he funds contributed by charitable associations to some 
01 the above-mentioned schools amount to 60,000 fr., giving 

le total cost ol primary instruction per annum 1,070,000 fr. 
Children are admitted from the age of G to that of 15. Elemen¬ 
tary singing is taught in all these schools. The monitors in them 
receive prizes according to merit. The salaries of the teachers 
are, for masters 1,800 fr., for mistresses 1,500 fr. per annum; and 
a J,!? f eit , ier P r °vided with a house, or receive an allowance 
o 300 r. towards their rent. Their salaries are increased every 
o years by 200 fr., till the total increase amounts to 600 fr If 
they hold an evening class for adults, they are paid in addition 
10 Ir. annually for every pupil, (l) 

Ecoles Speciales de Dessev. —Of these schools there are G for 
males, and 2 for females, maintained by the City of Paris. 

Salles d’Asile, or Infant Schools , are rapidly forming all 
over Paris. There are at present 27 such establishments, and 
they receive during the day between 5,000 and G,000 children, 
the annual expense of these establishments is about 130,000 fr. 
•Hants are received till their sixth year. The socielv for the 
promotion of these schools holds its meetings at 58, Chaussee 
d’Anlin, ivliere the Inspectress-general resides. (2) 

We may add to the foregoing account of the stale of public 
instruction in the capital a notice of a grand and admirable 
institution, which, although not situated within Paris, is still 
immediately and closely connected with it.. 

The Maison Royale de St. Denis is devoted to the instruction 
of the daughters, sisters, and nieces of members of the Legion 
of Honour. It was originally established by Napoleon in the 
Chateau of Ecouen, under the superintendence of Madame 
Campan, arid has been rendered illustrious by the peculiar fa¬ 
vour of the Emperor, who often visited it; by the Letters and 
the enlightened cares of its excellent governess; and by the 
numbers of accomplished and distinguished women who have 
received their education within its walls. Since 1815 it has been 

(1) A school for children of lhe Jewish persuasion has lately been 
erected at the cost of 200,000 fr. in the Marche des Blancs Manleaux. 
The total number of children frequenting the primary schools of 
Paris in 1 84G was 39,078. The Ecoles Primaires for all France, ac¬ 
cording to lhe last returns, contained 1 ,388,964 hoys, 943,616 girls : 
total, 2,332,580. The expense of communal schools was 9 , 017,427 fr., 
and the votes of councils-general for maintaining them amounted to 
4,231,608 fr. 

(2) The most authentic accounts of the institutions for public instruc¬ 
tion in France are to be found in the “ Almanach de TUniversite,” and 
in the “ Reports” of the prefect of the department. 


8 


86 INTRODUCTION. 

fixed in the vast buildings of the confiscated Abbey of St. Denis, 
and according to the latest regulations is thus constituted: The 
Queen is protectress of the institution. The Grand Chancellor 
of the Legion presents the higher functionaries of the house to 
the crown for appointment, and names the other functionaries 
by his own authority. All pupils are nominated by the King, on 
the presentation of the Grand Chancellor. The establishment 
consists of a lady superintendent, G ladies dignitaries; 12 ladies 
of the 1st class, 40 ladies of the 2d class, 20 novices, besides 
candidates for the noviciate, and about GOO pupils, of whom 
400 are taught gratuitously, the remainder being educated at 
the expense of their families. The superintendent, dignitaries, 
and governing members of the institution wear orders and de¬ 
corations corresponding to those of the members of the Legion 
of Honour; and retiring pensions are allowed them after a cer¬ 
tain number of years. A highly finished education is given 
to the pupils; and the young ladies who are brought up here 
receive all the advantage that can result from a well-matured 
system of collegiate instruction, aided by eminent professors 
of the fine arts and music. 3 almoners and a large medical staff 
are attached to the service of the establishment, and the care 
and attention paid to the comfort as well as health of the pupils 
are very great. At the same time the rules of the house are 
exceedingly strict, without being severe; all the members of 
it wear the same uniform, black dresses, black bonnets and 
gloves, with aprons and collars; all dine together, and are sub¬ 
jected to almost military discipline. Frequent examinations 
take place, and prizes are bestowed according to merit. Per¬ 
mission to visit the establishment is granted by the Grand 
Chancellor on a written application. 

Two succursal houses, belonging to this institution, and con¬ 
ducted upon the same plan, are established, one in rue Bar¬ 
bette, Paris, the second at the Maison des Loges, at St. Germain. 
These contain jointly 400 gratuitous pupils, and are superin¬ 
tended by the ladies of the Congregation de la Mere de Dieu. 

PUBLIC MUSEUMS.—Besides the Louvre, containing ten of 
the richest and most important collections of ancient and mo- * 
dern art, there are several other museums of art, numismatics, 
natural history, etc., described in their proper places, and 
enumerated in the Index under Musee, Galerie, and Cabinet. 

PRIVATE MUSEUMS.—The following is a list of private col¬ 
lections, to which access may be obtained, by application in 
writing to the owners -.—Ancient and Modern Art M. Odiot 
20, rue de l’Oratoire, Champs Elysees. (Sundays.)—Count Pour- 
tales, 7, rue Tronchet. (Wednesday.)—M. SauVageot, 56, rue du 
Faubourg Poissonniere. (Sundays.)—Madame Pankouke, 14 , rue 




LITERARY AND SCIENTIFIC SOCIETIES. 87 

ties Poitevins .—Paintings by old Masters :—M. Kalkbrenner 34 
rue St. Lazare. (Sundays.)—Marshal Soult, 57, rue de PUniver- 
site.—Due de Fellre, 10, rue Barouillere.— Paintings by Livinq 
Masters:— M. Paturle, 23, rue du Paradis Poissonniere. (Wed¬ 
nesday, from 1 to 0.)— Birds and Shells M. da Gama Machado, 
3, quai Voltaire.— Numismatics M. Rollin, 12, rue Vivienne! 
—Herbaries M. Adrien de Jussieu, at the Garden of Plants.— 
Phrenology and Anthropology: Dr. Dumoutier, 37, rue de Seine. 

The following are only accessible upon proper introduction! 
Paintings: —Count Demidoff, 105, rue St. Dominique.—Baron 
James Rothschild, 15, rue Laffitte.—Mr. Hope, 121, rue St. Do¬ 
minique.— Antiquities :—M. Irisson, 10, rue d’Anlin.—Duke de 
Luynes, 33, rue St. Dominique.— Numismatics :—M. Collot, 31 , 
quai d’Orsay.— Mineralogy: —M. Brogniart, 71, rue St. Domi¬ 
nique.—M. Cordier, at the Garden of Plants. 

PUBLIC LIBRARIES.—This city possesses many valuable col¬ 
lections of hooks, the most important of which is the Biblio- 
theque lloyale. For this and the other libraries mentioned in 
their respective places see Index, under the head Bibliotheques. 

PRIVATE LIBRARIES.—There are several attached to the 
different public offices and institutions; but they are not al¬ 
lowed to be visited without a special permission from the proper 
authorities, granted for some special object. Thus every mi¬ 
nistry has one relating principally to its peculiar department; 
the Cour de Cassation and other tribunals have theirs at the 
Palais de Justice; and the ticole Polytechnique, the ticole des 
Ponts et Chaussees, the Arts et Metiers, the Seminaire St. Sul- 
pice, the Observatoire, and the Conservatoire de Musique, have 
each their particular one. 

LITERARY AND SCIENTIFIC SOCIETIES. — Societe Roy ale 
des Antiquaires de France, 12, rue Taranne. — This society, 
which, when formed in 1805, was called AcadAmie Celtique, and 
has published some very interesting memoirs, has for its object 
to investigate the language, history, and antiquities of the Celts, 
Greeks, and Romans, and of the middle ages, but particularly 
those of the Gauls and French down to the lGth century. It 
consists of 00 resident members, and a great number of corre¬ 
spondents in the departments and foreign countries. 

Societe Philomatique, 0, rue d ’Anjou Dauphine.—Most oflhe 
members, who are 60 in number, are also members of the In¬ 
stitute, and, next to that institution, it is the most scientific body 
in Paris. They publish a Bulletin. 

Societe Entomologique, at the Hotel de Ville; meets on the 
2d and 4th Friday of every month, at 7 p. m. 

Societe du Cercle des Conferences Horticoles du Disparte- 


88 


INTRODUCTION. 


ment de la Seine— This society, which holds two exhibitions 
of vegetables, fruits, and (lowers, at the Luxembourg, at no 
fixed period of the year, meets the first Tuesday of each month, 
0, rue d’Anjou Dauphine. 

Societe de l’Histoire de France. —This society meets on the 
first Monday of every month, at the Bibliotheque Royale, 10, rue 
Neuve des Petits Champs. Its object is the publication of original 
documents on the History of France, previous to 1789. It also pu¬ 
blishes an annual on the same subject. President, M. de Barante. 

Societe Lidre res Beaux-Arts, meets at the Hotel de Ville 
on the first and third Tuesdays of every month; holds a public 
sitting in May each year, and publishes its annals. 

Societe des Gens de Lettres.— The object of this society is 
to secure the rights of literary and scientific authorship; it meets 
every Monday. Central agency, 21, rue de Provence. 

Societe d’Edccation Progressive, 123, rue St. Honore, is com¬ 
posed exclusively of ladies. 

Athenee Royal de Paris, 2, rue de Valois, St. Honore.—This 
institution was founded in 1781, by the unfortunate aeronaut 
Pilalre du Rosier. Lectures are delivered here in the winter 
on various branches of literature and science. The annual sub¬ 
scription is 120 fr. Subscribers have access to a reading-room, 
conversation-saloon, and library. 

Societe Francaise de Statistique Universelle, 23, rue Louis 
le Grand.—This society was founded in 1829, by M. Cesar Mo¬ 
reau, to aid the progress of general statistics. Different works 
connected with the objects of this association are printed at its 
expense, and prizes and medals are awarded for such produc¬ 
tions as are entitled to distinction. 

Societe de Bibliophiles. —The object of this society, which 
consists of about 20 members and some foreign associates, is the 
printing or reprinting of very scarce orinedited works. The agent 
of the society is M. Teschner, bookseller, 20, place du Louvre. 

Societe Royale de Geographie, 23, rue de FUniversite.—Found¬ 
ed in 1821, for the advancement of geographical science, by 
sending travellers to countries little known, proposing subjects 
for prizes, corresponding with learned societies, travellers, and 
geographers, and publishing works and maps. The annual’sub¬ 
scription is 36 fr. This society possesses a library, containing 
valuable geographical collections, and many curious objects 
presented to it by travellers, and publishes a bulletin. 

Societe Geologique de France, 26, rue du Vieux Colombier.— 
The object of this society is the study of geology in general, and 
of that of the soil of France in particular. It meets on the 1 st and 
3d Monday of every month. A library is at the disposal of its 
members. President, M. de Verneuil. 


LITERARY AND SCIENTIFIC SOCIETIES. 89 

Institut Historique.— This society, divided into four classes, 
cultivating respectively the history of nations, literature, 
sciences, and tine arts, holds an annual conference, wherein these 
subjects are discussed and prizes awarded; it publishes a monthly 
bulletin. Public and gratuitous lectures are given. French and 
foreign members pay 20 fr. a-year, and receive the journal 
gratis. The bureau is at 9, rue St. Guillaume. 

Societe Philotechnique, 148, Galerie Valois, Palais Royal.—This 
society, composed of 60 artists and scientific and literary men, 
besides honorary members, free members, and correspondents, 
holds public half-yearly meetings in the spring and autumn, at the 
Hotel deVille, at which papers are read, musical compositions 
performed, and sometimes the artists of the society exhibit their 
pictures, designs, or sculpture. The committee sit every 10th day. 

Athenee des Arts, Hotel de Ville.—Founded in 1792, for the 
encouragement and advancement of the arts and sciences. Its 
members consist of artists, scientific men, and artisans; ladies 
are also admitted. At the annual public meetings, in May, prizes 
are adjudged for useful inventions and improvements. The or¬ 
dinary sittings take place on Mondays; there are besides literary 
and musical soirees held every three months. 

Societe des Amis des Arts.— This society was founded be¬ 
fore the Revolution, but was subsequently dissolved, and re¬ 
established in 1816. Its object is to encourage the fine arts, by 
purchasing paintings, statues, drawings, engravings, etc., pro¬ 
vided they be original, and by living artists. An unlimited num¬ 
ber of subscribers are admitted, who, at the end of each year, 
can withdraw or continue members of the society. Every share 
is fixed at 100 fr., but may be divided into 4 coupons, and each 
subscriber can take as many shares as he pleases. Eight-tenths 
of the annual receipts are devoted to the purchase of pictures, 
statues, vases, bas-reliefs, drawings, bronzes, etc., by living artists 
of the French schools; another tenth is appropriated to engrav¬ 
ing. The objects of art thus purchased during the year are 
exhibited at the Louvre, and distributed among the shareholders 
by means of a lottery, in proportions regulated every year by 
the committee. Such shareholders as do not gain prizes are enti¬ 
tled to a proof engraving. Eighty proofs before letters are drawn 
of every engraving ordered by the society, and distributed by 
lottery among the shareholders. Subscriptions received by the 
secretary, at the Louvre. 

Societe de MeOecine de Paris. —This society devotes its atten¬ 
tion to epidemic diseases and the medical constitution, and 
keeps up an active correspondence with physicians and scienti¬ 
fic men in France and foreign countries. It publishes th e Revue 
Medicale. President, M. Sandras. The meetings are at the Hotel 


INTRODUCTION. 


90 

de Ville, on the 1st and 3d Friday of every month, at 3 p. m. 

Societe de Medecine Pratioue. — Its principal ol)ject is the 
study and cure of whatever diseases are most prevalent. The 
king’s chief physician is president of this society. They meet 
at the Hotel de Ville, the first Thursday of every month. (1) 

Societe de Ciiirurgie. —The meetings are held at the Hotel 
de Ville on Wednesdays, at 3 p. m. President, M. Reiard. 

Societe d’Observation, for the reading and discussion of me¬ 
dical cases.—M. Louis is perpetual president. The meetings are 
held at the Ecole de Medecine, on Fridays, but are not public. 

Societe Anatomique, one of the most interesting scientific so¬ 
cieties of Paris.—The most curious specimens of morbid anatomy 
are brought to the society from the different hospitals. M. Cru- 
veilhier is the perpetual president. The meetings are held on 
Friday, in a room attached to the Musee Dupuytren. 

Societe Phrenologique, at the Athenee Royal, 2, rue de Valois, 
meets on the 2d and 4th Wednesday of every month; there is 
also a public annual meeting in August. Lectures are delivered 
on phrenology on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays. 

Societe Medico-Piiilanthropique. —This benevolent association 
holds its meetings at 23, rue Neuve St. Augustin, on the 2nd and 
4th Mondays of the month. Gratuitous prescriptions are given 
on Thursdays from 12 to 1 o’clock, at the Hotel de Ville, and 
money is afforded to patients destitute of the means of pro¬ 
curing medicine. 

The Parisian Medical Society was established in 1837, and 
consists principally of English practitioners and students resi¬ 
dent in the capital, as well as European medical men, who 
meet to read memoirs and to discuss medical topics. The pre¬ 
sident is chosen annually. A library and reading-room are at¬ 
tached to this society: its rooms are at No. 3, rue Racine. Meetings 
are held every Wednesday evening. 

Societe Ethnologiqce, 4, rue Ventadour.—Patron, the Prince 
de Joinville; president, M. Lenormand. The object of this 
society is the natural history of man. Meetings are held on the 
2d and 4th Friday of every month. Strangers are admitted on 
an introduction by a member. The society publish their trans¬ 
actions periodically. 

Societe Academiqce des Enfants d’Apollon. —This society, 

(l) The last “ Almanach General de Medecine” contains the following 
official statistical returns:—1442 doctors of medicine or surgery are 
entered on the general Paris list. The number of officiers de sani& 
practising in Paris is 175, and the number of midwives is 4S0. There is, 
on an average, one medical man for every 763 inhabitants in Paris, and 
one for every iooo inhabitants in the departments. There are at present 
1260 students in the medical faculty of Paris. 


LITERARY AND SCIENTIFIC SOCIETIES. 94 

founded inl749, meets every month, and holds an annual meeting- 
devoted to music and poetry. Among the members are several 
of the most celebrated musicians in Europe, as well as distin¬ 
guished artists and men of letters. Its meetings are held at 
10, rue Duphot. 

Societe du Caveau. — This society was founded in 1737, by 
Piron, Crebillon junior, and Colle, and used to meet at that 
period in a tavern called Caveau , in the Carrefour de Bussy. 
Duclos, Bernard, Moncrif, Helvetius, and Rameau were succes¬ 
sively members of it. After some vicissitudes in 1793, when it 
changed its name to Diners du Vaudeville, and later to Societe' 
Lxjrique des Soupers de Momus, it was reconstituted under its 
ancient name in 1834. The members meet three times a-month, 
to cultivate poetry, and one of the meetings is devoted to the 
pleasures ofthe table. Their rendezvous is at248,rue St.Honore. 

Societe pour l’Encouragement de l’Industrie Nationals, 42, 
rue du Bac.—The object of this society is to second the efforts 
of government for the amelioration of every branch of industry, 
by giving prizes, by rewarding inventions, and by the publica¬ 
tion of a bulletin upon discoveries relating to industry. 

Societe Ro vale et Centrale d’Agriculture.— This society holds 
its meetings at the Hotel de Ville, every Wednesday at noon, 
and was established in 1788. Its object is the amelioration of 
rural and domestic economy in France. It is the centre ofthe 
correspondence of all the agricultural societies in the kingdom, 
and consists of 37 ordinary, 9 free, and 13 foreign associates. 

Societe Royale d’Horticui.ture , 12, rueTaranne, for the im¬ 
provement of the culture of gardens, the plants and fruits des¬ 
tined for food, the vegetables susceptible of being employed in 
the arts, fruit-trees, etc. It grants prizes, distributes medals, 
exhibits plants, shrubs, flowers, etc., and publishes a monthly 
journal on gardening, called Annales de la Societe d’Horticulture. 

Societe des Accouchements , at the Hotel de Ville, under the 
patronage of the Queen. It administers gratuitous advice and 
assistance, and meets on the first Wednesday of every month. 

Societe Orientals, 10, rue Duphot.—Meetings on the 2d and 
4th Friday of every month. Its object is the study of modern 
Oriental literature. It publishes the Revue de VOrient. 

Ixstitut d’Afrique, 7, rue St. Florenlin, founded in 1838 to 
aid the civilisation and colonisation of Africa. 

Academie de l’Industrie Franqaise et de Statistique Univer- 
selle, 23, rue Louis le Grand, for the promotion of agricul¬ 
tural, manufacturing, and commercial knowledge. 

Besides these there are numerous other societies in the ca¬ 
pital, of which the following are the chief: full information 
respecting their objects and constitution may be obtained at the 


INTRODUCTION. 


92 

addresses annexed lo them. — Societe Sericicole, 12, rue Ta- 
ranne.— Society Medico-pratique, Hotel de Ville.— Society Me¬ 
dicate d'Emulation, ficole de Medecine.— Societd de Chimie 
Medicate de Paris, 4, place de l’Ecole de Medecine.— Societe de 
Pharmacie, 13, rue de 1’A.rbalete.— Societe Asiatique, 12, rue 
Taranne. It publishes the Journal Asiatique.—Societe pour 
Vlnstruction Elementaire, 12, rue Taranne.— Societe d’Educa¬ 
tion et des Methodes d’Enseignemenl, 12, rue Taranne.— Societe 
des Architectes, 12, rue Taranne.— Societe des Progres Agri¬ 
coles, 10, rue Taranne.— Societe Grammatical, \2, rue Taranne. 

RELIGIOUS INSTITUTIONS.—Under the Restoration the Ro¬ 
man Catholic creed was declared to he the religion of the State, 
all others being merely tolerated. The Charter of 1830 having 
done away with these distinctions, all the persuasions pro¬ 
fessed at that time by French subjects have equal rights by 
law. In point of fact, however, the Roman Catholic Church 
predominates, that being, nominally at least, the creed of the 
majority of the French nation, and there is a general impres¬ 
sion that the government gives it the preference. 

I. Romish Institutions. —Bishops and archbishops are named 
by the king, and confirmed by the pope; they take their oath 
of allegiance to the State before taking possession of their sees. 
Bishops name their vicars-general and curates, subject to the 
royal approbation. The Romish clergy of Paris is composed of 
1 archbishop, 3 vicars-general sanctioned by the king, and 8 
who are honorary; 2 secretaries, 1 penitentiary, 4 metropo¬ 
litan and 4 diocesan officials; 1G members of the Chapter of 
Paris; 3 acting and 53 honorary canons; 2 masters of the cho¬ 
risters; 11 superintendents of the edifice of Notre Dame ; 
3 superiors of seminaries, and 37 cures or parish priests, 
besides an indefinite number of priests not attached to any 
particular service. In Paris each of the 12 arrondissements lias 
a parochial church, and a number of others called Eglises Suc- 
cursales, or District Churches. Full descriptions of these will 
be found in their proper places. We would however particu¬ 
larly recommend to the attention of strangers the Madeleine, 
St. Vincent de Paule, Notre Dame de Lorette, the Cathedral of 
Notre Dame, St. Etienne du Mont, St. Germain VAuxerrois, 
St. Eustache, St. Gervais, and St. Sulpice. (See Index .)— 
Churches or chapels not attached to the service of a particular 
district, but deserving of particular attention, are the Eglise des 
lnvalides, the Chapelle Expiatoire, the Chapclle de St. Ferdi¬ 
nand, and the Pantheon, which last, though no longer a church, 
is still considered a sacred edifice. (See Index.) 

Convents.— There are above 30 such establishments in Paris, 
principally of nuns, who devote themselvesto the education of 


RELIGIOUS INSTITUTIONS. 93 

young Indies, Ihe relief of the sick, and other useful pursuits 
but changes too frequently take place to he able to give their 
exact number. Among the principal we may mention : the 
Dames du Sucre Coeur, 41, rue de Varennes; the Dames Au- 
gustines Anglaises, 23, rue des Fosses St. Victor; the Congre¬ 
gation des Sceurs de St. Vincent de Paule, or sisters of cha¬ 
nty, 132, rue du Bac. These excellent women, about 500 in 
number, devote themselves to the care of the sick in the 
hospitals, in private houses when required, and they also su¬ 
perintend schools tor the education of the poor. It is generally 
admitted, however, that zeal for their own creed induces them 
to make the sick bed an instrument for proselytism; a fact that 
has lately elicited a ministerial decree authorising the admis¬ 
sion into the hospitals of ministers of any established creed pa¬ 
tients may belong to. 

The following other institutions belong to the same creed : 
Seminaire des Missions Etrangeres, 120, rue du Bac.—Mis¬ 
sionaries are educated here in the Asiatic languages, and in 
whatever may lit them for the missions in the East. 

Seminaire du St. Esprit, 2G, rue des Postes.—The pupils of 
this seminary, destined for missions to the French colonies, 
consist of young Frenchmen or Creoles who have devoted them¬ 
selves to the ecclesiastical state. 

Seminaire de St. Nicolas du Chardonnet. —Forms two divi¬ 
sions : one established at the ancient seminary, 18 his, rue de 
1 ontoise, and the other, called Petit Se'minaire, at Gentilly, 
shortly to he removed to 7, rue Notre Dame des Champs. The 
two houses contain 150 pupils. 

Seminaire de St. Sulpice, PlaceSt. Sulpice.—It has a superior, 
10 directors and professors, and 230 students in theology. A 
succursal house is established at Issy, for the study of philo¬ 
sophy, with a superior, 5 professors and directors, and GO stu¬ 
dents. It possesses a library of 20,000 volumes. 

Institut des Freres des tcoles Chretiennes, 1G5, rue du Fau¬ 
bourg St. Martin, shortly to he removed to therue Plumet.—It 
has a noviciate for the teachers of the Ecoles Chretiennes. 
There are in Paris 10 establishments and 80 classes. 

Cause Diocesaine. —This fund is destined to afford pensions 
to priests whose age or infirmities prevent them continuing to 
exercise their functions, and to grant allowances to young men 
destitute ol fortune who devote themselves to the ecclesiastical 
stale, to enable them to prosecute their studies. 

II. Protestant Institutions.— Calvinists.— These have pastors 
loi every church, who with the elders of the congregation, 
chosen from among those who pay the greatest amount of 
taxes, form the Consistory. Five consistories form the juris- 


94- introduction. 

diction of a sijnod, which is composed of the pastor and one 
elder of every church. The consistory elects the pastors under 
the approbation of the king. The synod decides upon all that 
relates to the service, the doctrines, and the affairs ol the 
church. The royal approbation is required to give force to its 
decisions. It cannot assemble without the permission of go¬ 
vernment, nor last more than G days. This persuasion has a 
faculty at Montauban. Its churches in Paris are : VOratoire, 
157, rue St. Honore; la Visitation de Ste. Marie, 21G, rue St. An¬ 
toine; le Panthemont, 110, rue de GrenelleSt. Germain; a cha¬ 
pel at 38, Boulevard exterieur at Batignolles Monceaux. The 
number of pastors of this persuasion is seven. 

Lutherans.—The churches of the Confession of Augsburg are 
directed by pastors, consistories, inspections, and a General 
Consistory. The consistories take cognizance of all that relates 
to the discipline and administration of the church. The inspec¬ 
tion is composed of the pastor and one elder of each consistory 
within its jurisdiction, and elects 2 laymen and one clergyman, 
under llie title of inspector, who exercises general vigilance 
over the other pastors. The inspection cannot assemble with¬ 
out the consent of government. The Consistory-general rules 
the inspections. The president, the eldest inspector, and 3 lay¬ 
men form a Directory, invested with powers for conducting 
business during the intervals of the sittings. One of the laymen 
is named by the king. The seat of the Consistory-general is at 
Strasburg, where is also established a seminary and faculty. 
—In Paris its churches are : La Redemption, 5, rue Chauchat; 
les Carm.es Billettes, 1G, rue des Billettes (in French and Ger¬ 
man ), and the Chapelle Evangelique, 6, rue Montholon. These 
churches have together 5 pastors. 

The following are not paid by the state : 

Church of England .—The clergy of this church is composed 
of the chaplain to the embassy, and 4 ministers. The episcopal 
church is, 7, rue d’Aguesseau, faubourg St. Honore. There are 
besides the Marboeuf Chapel, 10 bis, Avenue Marbceuf, Champs 
Elysees, and the Protestant church, in the rue Chauchat. French 
Independents, chapelle Taitbout, 44, rue de Provence; service 
in French and English. A school with chapel annexed is at 74, 
rue St.Maur, faubourg du Temple .—Wesleyan Chapel, 21, rue 
Royale St. Honore; service in French and English .—Swiss 
Church, 357, rue St. Honore. For the hours of divine service 
at these churches, the reader is referred to the article Stran¬ 
ger’s Diary, published every Saturday in Galignani’s Messenger. 

The following are other Protestant religious institutions:— 

Societe Biblique Protestante de Paris, 16, rue des Moulins 
St. Roch.—The object is to spread the Holy Scriptures, without 


RELIGIOUS INSTITUTIONS. 95 

note or commentary, in the versions received and used in Pro¬ 
testant churches. It holds an annual public meeting. 

Societe pour l’Encouragement de VInstructionprimaire parmi 
les Protestants de France, 3, rue de POratoire St. Honore, insti¬ 
tuted in 1830. 

Societe des Missions t rang cliques chezles peuples non Chre¬ 
tiens, formed in 1822, 7, rue de Berlin, place de l’Europe. 

Societe des Traites religieux, 2, rue Tronchet. 

Societe Evangelique de France, 8, rue Rumford. 

Societe Biblique francaise et etrangere, 8, rue Rumford. 

III. Greek Church. —Chapel of the Russian Embassy, 4, r rue 
Neuve de Berry. 

1\. Armenian Persuasion. —Seminaire des Moines Armeniens 
Meketairistes de St. Lazare de Venise, 8, rue Monsieur. 

Y. Jewish Persuasion.— The ministers of this creed are paid 
by the Slate. A central Council, headed by the Grand Rabbi of 
Paris, exercises jurisdiction over the other Councils throughout 
France in matters relating to religion. The synagogue in Paris 
is situated at 14, rue Neuve St. Laurent, having another entrance 
at 15, rue Notre Dame de Nazareth. A central Rabbinical school 
is established at Metz, for aspirants to the priesthood. (1) 

(l) The total number of catholic clergy in France is about 42,000, com¬ 
prising 15 archbishops, 65 bishops, 176 vicars-general, 661 canons, 3,301 
curates, and 28,501 priests of dglises succursales . Funds have been 
voted for 300 more. To these may be added 8,500 theological students 
intended for the priesthood. The a-rchbishop of Paris has 40,000 fr., the 
other archbishops I5,000 fr. each, and bishops lO.OOOfr. The archbishop 
of Lyons, and the bishop of Arras, being cardinals, receive 10,000 fr. 
besides. The salaries of vicars-general and canons vary from 2,000 to 
4,000 fr.; those of cures from 1,200 to 1,500 fr. A sum of 55,000 fr. is al¬ 
lowed tor pensions to curates retired since 1802. Nuns (except those of 
the time of the Revolution) receive no salary from the state. The 
number of convents for nuns of different orders is about 3,ooo, and the 
number of nuns about 24,000; there are also in France convents of 
Trappists, Carthusians, Capucins, and Benedictines, besides the priests of 
St. Sulpice. The total cost of the catholic clergy in France for 1846 is 
estimated at 36,318,900 fr.—Of the ministers of other persuasions there 
are 4n Calvinists, of whom 90 are presidents of Consistories; 230 Lu¬ 
therans, of whom 6 are inspectors, and 3i presidents of Consistories. 
The salaries of protestant ministers vary from 1,200 to 2,000 fr., accord¬ 
ing to the number of parishioners. The protestant seminaries are 
besides endowed with 30 purses of 400 fr. each and 60 half purses 
of 200 fr. The Church of England has at least 40 ministers in France. 
The whole expense of the Protestant worship for 1846 amounts to 
1,255,050 fr. The Jewish creed counts 8 grand Rabbins; the expenses 
amount to 110,400 fr. There are 86 ministers of other denominations. 
The expense of administration of all these forms of worship, com¬ 
prising a director and 56 employes of all degrees, amounts besides 
to 253,044 fr. At the time of the Revolution the total number of cc- 


96 INTRODUCTION. 

CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS. Numerous establishments 
for affording relief to the sick, to foundlings, to the aged, in¬ 
firm, and unfortunate, existed in Paris at a very early period; 
hut the object of their founders was greatly perverted, and 
their revenues directed to other purposes. From the time of 
Philip Augustus to the period of the Revolution, nothing could 
exceed the wretchedness which prevailed in these abodes of 
human suffering. Their maladministration, joined to the want 
of air and beds, caused a dreadful mortality among the patients 
and inmates; and every successive inquiry brought to light the 
most appalling facts, without giving birth to any eflicienl mea¬ 
sures for their amelioration. In the year 1786, a controversy 
having interested the public mind in favour of a change, 
Louis XVI. commanded the Academy of Sciences to make in¬ 
quiry into the state of the Hotel Dieu. Their report showed 
the state of that hospital to he most deplorable. The construc¬ 
tion of four new hospitals was therefore ordained by the king. 
All classes seemed eager to contribute towards carrying the 
project into execution, and considerable sums were raised; 
hut the profligacy of the minister Calonne, the low state of the 
finances, and the events which preceded the Revolution, caused 
several millions of the hospital fund to he dissipated. The Re¬ 
volution breaking out shortly afterwards, the hospitals of Paris 
remained without improvement. The project, however, of de¬ 
molishing the Hotel Dieu, and establishing four hospitals, was 
not forgotten. By a decree of the Convention, July, 16, 1793, 
the administration of the department was commanded to transfer 
part of the patients of the hospitals of Paris into convents or 
other structures which had become national property. By an¬ 
other decree, of August 24, 1794, the superintendence of the 
hospitals was vested in sixteen members of the National Con¬ 
vention. By a subsequent decree, two new hospitals were 
established, and the number of beds in those already existing 
considerably augmented. At various successive periods the 
state of the hopitaux and hospices of Paris has been ameliorated, 
particularly since they have been placed under the direction of 
a general administration. This administration, which was created 
in February, 1801, consists of a general council and an admi¬ 
nistrative committee. All the civil hospitals, as well as the 
various institutions dependent on them, are under their super- 

clesiaslical personages was 114,000, including 19,000 regular clergy, 
and 32,000 nuns of all orders. Their annual revenues amounted to 
72 millions of francs, and the tithe to 70 millions, giving a total ol 
142 millions. From an official account it appears that the sum expended 
in 1846 for Roman Catholic missions was 3,882,273 fr.,and the receipts 
by subscriptions and other sources, was 3,575,775 fr. 


CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS. 97 

intendence. i lie military hospitals are under the government 
ol the etal-major of the garrison of Paris. The general council 
decides all general administrative measures, and superintends 
the property, accounts, and other affairs, of the hopitaux and 
hospices. The administrative committee regulates the different 
branches of management. That of the Secours d Domicile also 
comes under the general administration. The Prefect of the 
Seine and the Prefect of Police are members of the general 
council, which comprises some of the most notable functionaries 
of the slate, and assembles weekly at the Hotel de Ville. There 
is also a consulting committee of advocates attached to the ad¬ 
ministration, besides a general secretary, a receiver-general, 
legal agents, architects, etc. The bureaux of the administra¬ 
tive committee are at 2, rue Neuve Notre Dame, (l) 

Admission into the Hospitals.— In case of severe wounds, the 
medical man upon duty at any of the hospitals may receive a 
patient into his establishment. The head physicians also, at 
their morning consultations, may receive into their hospitals 
such patients as they may think proper. Those who are 
not received in either of the preceding cases may obtain ad¬ 
mission upon application at the Bureau Central d'Admission, 
opposite the cathedral of Notre Dame. This is a board of 
12 physicians and 6 surgeons, who relieve each other by ro¬ 
tation. From this body the hospital surgeons and physicians 
are selected as vacancies occur. They indicate the particular 
hospital for the patient according to the nature of the com¬ 
plaint. Certain medical advice is also given by the board to 
indigent persons, and children are vaccinated here on Thurs¬ 
days and Sundays at 11. This latter service also takes place 
once a-week at the mairies; to encourage this useful practice, 
three francs are paid to the parents for every child; and chil¬ 
dren, not having undergone the process are excluded from the 
free schools of Paris. 

Hospitals.— All the civil hospitals of Paris are divided into 
three classes—1. General Hospitals, open to those complaints 
for which a special hospital is not provided; of these the Hotel 
Dieu is the principal : 2. Special Hospitals, destined to the 
sole treatment of particular classes of disorders, as, for example, 
cutaneous, mental, etc.: and, 3. Hospices or Alms-houses. The 

(l) It appears from the last general returns that the hospitals and 
hospices of Paris support every year (in round numbers) 12,000 aged 
and infirm men and women, receiving yearly nearly 80,000 patients, of 
whom 5,200 are always under cure or care; of children are yearly re¬ 
ceived 4,600, and 12,000 are always out at nurse in the country; 500 are 
apprenticed yearly. Besides this the hospital directors accord relief » 
yearly to 80,000 indigent families. 


9 


98 INTRODUCTION. 

whole number of those under the care and direction of the 
Council General of Hospitals is thirty-six, and these are appro¬ 
priated respectively for persons afflicted with various diseases 
or incurable infirmities, and the indigent poor. All the hospi¬ 
tals have since 1830 been much increased and received many 
improvements. Upwards of 14 millions of francs have been 
expended. A new hospital is projected in the quartier Poisson- 
niere; and a still larger one, to be named after Louis Philippe, 
is erecting between the faubourgs St. Denis and St. Martin. 
An hospital in the quartier St. Lazare is also spoken of. (l) 

In 1803 the population of Paris was 700,000, and the number 
of beds in the hospitals 5,020; in 1846 the latter amounted 
to 0,612 only, while the former had increased to above 1,100,000. 

The following was the statistical condition of the above in¬ 
stitutions for the year ending Dec. 31, 1845. The total number 
of patients admitted into the general and special hospitals 
was 153,850; viz., 57,092 medical, 20,180 surgical, and 76,572 
medical and surgical cases. The number of patients cured was 
140,372; viz., 51,305medical, 19,234surgical,and 09,833 medical 
and surgical cases; the total number of deaths was 13,708; 
viz. 5800 medical, 1008 surgical, and 0874 medical and surgical 
cases; the latter dale comprising some patients entered in 1844. 
The Hospices and Maisons de Retraite received 21,835 individuals; 
the exits were 20,164, and the deaths 1507. The average 
number of days passed in the hospitals by each patient in the 
general and special hospitals was 22; the average for men was 
21 days; for women 24; for boys 14, and for girls 15. The 
mortality in the general hospitals averaged for medical cases 1 
in 8; for surgical cases 1 in 14; in the special hospitals, for me¬ 
dical cases 1 in 24 ; for surgical cases l in 22. The greatest 
number of beds occupied at any one lime, during the year, 
was, for the general and special hospitals, in March and De¬ 
cember; the smallest number in July and August. (2) 

(1) The following is an account of the number and character of the 
charitable establishments in France :—1333 hospitals or hospices, the 
revenues of which amount to 53,662,992 fr.; l royal hospital for the 
blind, 332,492 fr.; 7599 bureaux de bienfaisance, 13,557,836 fr.; 46 monts 
de piele, whose annual loans are 42,220,684 fr.; 39 establishments for 
the deaf and dumb, the revenues of which are unknown, except those of 
Paris and Bordeaux, which are 255,583 fr.; l school for the blind, 
156,699 1r.; 144 depdls for enfants trouves, the revenues of which are 
included in those of hospitals and hospices; 37 public asylums for the 
insane, n private asylums, and 25 wards in the hospitals —the public 
asylums receive 4,826,168 fr.; and l Maison Royale at Charenton, 
459,875 fr., making a total of 9242 establishments and an annual ex¬ 
penditure of 115,441,232 fr. 

( 2 ) For further account see Hospice des Enfants Ttouv6s , in the nth 
arrondissement. 


CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS. 99 

The financial condition of the Hospitals and Charitable Insti¬ 
tutions dependent on the General Administration was as follows 
for 1845 : ( 1 ) Total receipts, all deductions and allowances 
made, 1G,42G,338 fr. Total expenditure, allowances and additions 
included, 13,767,842 fr. The receipts included, among other 
items, rents of land, houses, etc., 925,705 fr. ; interest of funded 
property, 1,819,583 fr.; interest of capital lent to the City of 
Paiis, 554,873 fr.; contributions of theatres and guinguettes, 
1,046,525 fr.; (2) dues from the Mont de Piete, 399,412 fr.; mu¬ 
nicipal subvention of the City of Paris for the Enfants Trouve's, 
202,800 fr.; annual contribution of Paris, 3,952,626 fr. ; funds 
granted by the department for the Enfants Trouves , 883,200 fr. 

The expenses included : General Hospitals, 2,149,732 fr • 
Special Hospitals, 1,468,304 fr.; Maison Royale de Santd’ 
154,892 fr.; Maisonsde Retraite, 504,68 lfr. ; Hospices, 3,558,694fr.- 
Buildings and repairs, 1,610,619 fr. ; Charitable foundations 
203,431 fr.; out-door relief (Bureaux deBienfaisance) 1,411,560 fr.; 
Administration, 492,064 fr.; Expenses of collection, 605,123 fr! 
The average cost of each patient per diem was :—General 
Hospitals, lfr. 75c.; Special Hospitals, lfr. 80c. Hospices, from 
Ifr. to lfr. 10c.; Maisons de Retraite, from lfr. to lfr. 85c.; 
and in the other charitable foundations, from lfr. 18c. to 4fr. ( 3 ) 

The visitor will find an ample description of the hospitals 
and hospices of Paris at their respective places in the different 
arrondissements (See Index); we subjoin a few, which, from 
their remote situation, offer less convenience for inspection. 

The Hdpital Lourcine, for the reception of female patients 
suffering from syphilitic diseases. It is located in the buildings 
of a Maison de Refuge, founded by M. Debelleyme, and con¬ 
tains 300 beds, of which 250 for adults, and 50 for children; 
it is exceedingly well regulated. The average number of 
patients in the course of the year is 2000, and the mortality 1 
in 30. The nature of the diseases here treated being such as 
to make medical men rather unwilling to undertake the ma¬ 
nagement of the patients, the Board of Health has imposed 
upon every physician desirous of a place in an hospital, to 

(1) The financial and statistical returns of charitable institutions not 
under the control of the General Administration are not published. 

(2) All public places of amusement pay a tax of to per cent, on their 
receipts towards the support of the hospitals. A heavy tax for their sup¬ 
port is also levied on every piece of ground purchased for the purpose 
of burial in the cemeteries. Private munificence contributes largely to 
their maintenance; in 1845 the legacies and donations in their favour 
amounted to 475,000 fr. 

(3) The annual contract for supplying meat to all the hospitals and 
hospices of Paris amounts to 1,479,673 fr., for 1,310,963 kil. The average 
consumption of fresh butter is 48,800 kil.; that of milk 570,ooo litres. 


INTRODUCTION. 


100 

pass some time in the Hopilal Lourcine, so that there are con¬ 
tinual changes among the medical men attached to it. M. Hu- 
guier, the actual surgeon, gives clinical lectures here three limes 
a-week from April to July. Professional men easily obtain tickets. 

The Maison d’Enghien, 8, rue de Picpus, is a small hospital, 
called after the unfortunate duke whose name it bears, and 
was founded by his mother, the Duchess de Bourbon, in 1819. 
Since the death of that princess it has been supported by Her 
Royal Highness Madame Adelaide. The situation is airy, and 
the utmost cleanliness and order prevail in the establishment. 
It contains 50 beds, of which 18 are for women, 12 for old 
men, permanently residing there, and 20 for convalescent pa¬ 
tients. The Soeurs de Saint Vincent de Paule attend upon the 
inmates. Physician, M. Pain. 

The Hopital Civil du Bon Secours, 97, rue de Charonne, 
established since December i84G, in the building formerly oc¬ 
cupied by a military hospital. The principal cases here treat¬ 
ed are acute diseases, obstetrical cases, and the diseases of 
nurses. The number of beds is 415; the mortality is 1 in 12. 
Surgeon, M. Denonvilliers. Physicians, MM. Monneret, Gillette, 
and Hardy. 

Maison de Retraite, or Hospice de La Rochefoucauld, outside 
thebarriered’Enfer,route d’Orleans, No. 15.—Thishouse, which 
is now devoted to the reception of old servants of the hospitals, 
and other aged and infirm persons, was originally established 
by the Freres de la Charite, under the title of Maison Royale 
deSante, for 12 soldiers, and the same number of ecclesiastics. 
The buildings were erected after the designs of Antoine, and 
in 180£ were devoted to their present purpose. Persons who 
are GO years of age and upwards pay 200 fr. a-year, and those 
that are infirm, 250 fr. Infirm persons of small fortune, up¬ 
wards of 20 years of age, may treat for admission by paying 
down a sum according to their age, etc., which gradually 
rises from 700 to3G00 fr. The number of beds is 213; the pre¬ 
sent number of inmates 210. The house furnishes food, fire, 
medicines, etc. Dr. Baffos and the Sceurs de Charite attend this 
institution, which may be visited by applying to the porter. 

Maisons de Sante.— These establishments, of which there are 
a great many in and about Paris, receive patients, who pay 
various prices for the accommodations they receive there, anil 
may he called hospitals for the middling classes. They are con¬ 
ducted generally by a medical man of reputation, who boards, 
lodges, and attends to the patients; they have generally gardens 
attached, and some, particularly those in the environs, are 
agreeable places of residence for sick people. Booms contain¬ 
ing a single or several beds maybe had according to the means 


CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS. 101 

of the patients; and persons condemned for political offences, 
whose health would he endangered by the confinement of a 
prison, are sometimes allowed to reside on their parole, and 
on the responsibility of the director of the establishment, in a 
Maison de Sante. Persons confined for debt in any of the prisons 
of Paris may be transferred to a Maison de Sante; but the pro¬ 
prietor of the establishment is held responsible to the full 
amount of the debt due should ihe prisoner escape. 

The Amphitheatre of Anatomy for the hospitals of Paris is 
placed on the site of the ancient burial-ground of Clamart, rue 
du Per a Moulin, and is admirably suited to the purposes for 
which it is intended. Every facility is given to students. An¬ 
other set of dissecting-rooms is placed beside the Musee Dupuy- 
tren, near the Iilcole de Medecine. 

Boulangerie GfInerale, 2, Place Scipion.—This is the general 
bakehouse for all the hospitals. 

Cave Generale, 2, rue Notre Dame.—Here all the wines, 
spirits, etc., used in the hospitals are delivered. 

Pharmacie Centrale des Hospices, 53, Quai de la Tournelle. 
—A general dispensary, first established in the Hopital des En- 
fants Trouves, Parvis Notre Dame, was transferred, in 1812, to 
the convent of the Dames Miramionnes, where it still exists. 

Etablissement pour les Blesses Indigents, 9, rue du Petit Muse. 

Societe de Charite Maternelle.— Bureau, 4, rue de Menars. 
—This society is under the immediate presidency of the Queen, 
who nominates the governesses. 44 ladies of rank, composing 
the council of administration, distribute assistance in the dif¬ 
ferent arrondissements. Its object is to aid poor women in 
childbed, and encourage them to suckle their own children. 

Creches, or Nurseries, are benevolent institutions for the 
following purpose. Poor women, working out of doors, deposit 
their babies there in the morning, return to suckle them at the 
proper hours, and lake them home in the evening. If weaned, 
the child has a little basket to itself. The creches are open 
from half past 5 a. m. to 8 in the evening. Each mother pays 
20 cent imes per day to the nurses of the establishment. Medical 
and every other necessary attendance is provided at these 
really philanthropic establishments, of which there is one in 
each arrondissement. 

Direction Generale de Nourrices, 18, rue Ste. Apolline, at¬ 
tached to the Central Administration of Hospitals, affords the 
inhabitants of Paris and its environs the means of obtaining 
wet-nurses in whom they may confide, and secures to the 
nurses the payment of their wages. There are also several 
private establishments for a similar purpose. 

Societe Philanthropique, 12, rue du Grand Chantier. Founded 


INTRODUCTION. 


4 02 

in 1780, under the special protection of Louis XVL, for afford¬ 
ing relief to suffering humanity. The funds are employed in 
distributing food to the indigent, gratuitous advice and medi¬ 
cine to the sick, and in assisting charitable establishments. They 
have lately established 10 public kitchens, called fournaux, 
open G months of the year, to distribute cheap provisions to the 
poor, to whom bons of the value of 2 sous are gratuitously 
given, enabling them to get dishes of 3 sous value upon pay¬ 
ment of 1 sou. Charitable persons may buy these bons at 10 fr. 
a-hundred, and distribute them at pleasure. The Duke de Ne¬ 
mours is president. 

Bureau de Bienfaisance et Secours a Domicile.— In each of 
the 12 arrondissements of Paris, there is a bureau to afford re¬ 
lief to aged and infirm persons, and poor women having large 
families, and gratuitous advice and medicine to the sick, at 
their own houses. An infirmary is attached to each bureau. 
The relief granted consists of bread, meat, firing, and clothing; 
besides which a monthly allowance of 3 fr. is given to those 
who are affected with palsy in two limbs; 5 fr. to those who are 
blind, and those who are upwards of 75 years old; and 8 fr. to 
those who are turned 80. They are under the direction of the 
prefect of the department and the General Council of Hospitals. 
Each bureau consists of the mayor (who is president ex-officio), 
the deputy-mayors, as well as, in general, of the rector of the 
parish, the curates of the chapels of ease, and the protestant 
minister, where there is a church of that persuasion; 12 mana¬ 
gers, chosen by the Minister of the Interior; and the commis¬ 
saries fur the poor, and Dames de Charite, whose number is 
determined by the bureau. A responsible agent is attached to 
each. In 184G the poor of Paris amounted to 90,000, and, ac¬ 
cording to the recently published report, bear the following 
proportion to the general population of the capital : in the 
1st arrondissement they are 1 in 17; 2d, 1 in 33; 3d, 1 in 27; 
4th, 1 in 15; 5th, 1 in 17; Gth, 1 in 15; 7th, l in 17; 8th, l in 6; 
9th, 1 in 8; 10th, l in 19; 11th, 1 in 1G; 12th, l in G. General 
average 1 in 13. In 1846 there were 29,282 heads of families 
dependent on the charitable institutions of the capital, of whom 
8,272 were born in Paris, 4,740 were born out of Paris but mar¬ 
ried in it, and 16,270 both born and married in the provinces 
Of the whole number 15,230 were above GO years of age, 1,143 
from 80 to 89, 32 from 90 to 99, and l above 100 years of a rr e 

British Charitable Fund.— This excellent institution was 
formed in 1822, under the patronage of the British Ambassador, 
for the relief of distressed British subjects. The funds, which 
are raised by voluntary subscription, are managed by a com¬ 
mittee, who meet on Tuesdays and Fridays, at 23, rue de Pon- 


CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS. \ 03 

tliieu. One great object of this society is to afford relief to 
necessitous British subjects, and assist them in returning home. 
To the honour of the British name it may be said that but few 
persons of distinction or fortune visit Paris without contribut¬ 
ing, by subscriptions or donations, to the Fund. Subscriptions 
and donations are received by the Committee, by the British 
Consul, and by Messrs. Rothschild; Callaghan; Galignani. The 
number of persons relieved in 1846 was 2,154; of those sent to 
England, 357. 

British Medical Institution, for the treatment of the diseases 
of women and children, 1 bis, rue duColysee, Champs Elysees 
—This institution was opened in April 1846, for the benefit of 
British and American subjects, who receive advice and medi¬ 
cines gratuitously. It was founded and is supported by Dr. Hig¬ 
gins, who attends every Tuesday and Saturday from 12 to 1 o’clock. 

British Free Schools, for the gratuitous education of the 
children of poor British subjects, and for the care and main¬ 
tenance of poor British orphans, 31, rue des Ecuries d’Artois. 
These institutions, open to the public every day, except Thurs¬ 
day, from 9 till 4, are patronized by the Duchess of Kent, and 
the British Ambassador, and are supported by voluntary con¬ 
tributions. The committee consists of twelve gentlemen, who 
receive subscriptions, and publish an annual report. 

Maison St. Casimir, rue d’lvry.—For this interesting Polish in¬ 
stitution see the 12th arrondissement. 

Societe Allemande de Bienfaisance, 3, Place de l’Ecole de 
Medecine.—This society, established in 1844, is precisely similar 
to the British Charitable Fund with respect to Germans. Mem¬ 
bers pay from 10 to 15 fr. a-year, or 150 fr. for life. President: 
Count d’Appony, Ambassador of Austria. 

Societe Protestante de Prevoyance et de Secours Mutuels.— 
This association, composed exclusively of Protestants, was 
formed in 1825, to afford medical advice, medicine, and 2 fr. 
a-day to sick members, who pay a subscription of 24 fr. a-year. 
Office, 54, rue de l’Arbre Sec. 

Societe Helvf.tique. —This society, established in 1822, is 
composed of Swiss of all the Cantons, and without distinction 
of religion. Its objects are to establish a bond of union, and to 
afford relief to such of their countrymen as are in distress. 
Office, 3, rue de l’Oratoire St. Honore. 

Maison des Diaconesses, 33, rue de Reuilly, faubourg St. An¬ 
toine.—These are Protestant Sisters of Charity, instituted in 
1842, with a view of obtaining in the hospitals of Paris the care 
of Protestant patients, to prevent their religious tenets being 
tampered with on their death-bed. 

Maison pour les Enfants Delaisses, 15, rue Notre Dame des 


INTRODUCTION. 


m 

Champs.—This society’s object is principally to protect desert¬ 
ed young girls, and such as have lost their mothers. After 
receiving a moral education, they are placed out as appren¬ 
tices. The present number of pupils is 100. 

Institution St. Nicolas, 98, rue de Vaugirard, for the recep¬ 
tion of male orphans. Their number at present is 530. A branch 
establishment exists at Issy. 

Societe de la Morale Ciiretienne, 9, rue St. Guillaume.— 
This society, founded in 1821, principally by the Duke de La- 
rochefoucauld Lianconrt, has for its object the protection of 
orphans up to the end of their apprenticeship, the aid of poor 
working people, the gratuitous defence of prisoners, and the 
protection of liberated convicts, by procuring them work, and 
inducing them to earn an honest livelihood. The society exer¬ 
cises a strict surveillance over those receiving its protection. 

Etablissement de Filatures, Impasse des Hospitalieres, 2, 
Place Royale.—This establishment is destined to give work to 
poor women, who receive a quantity of hemp for spinning, for 
which they are paid a certain sum. The number employed is 
about 3,800. There are besides 160 weavers, for whom frames 
and tools are procured gratuitously. 

Charitable Society of St. Francis de Recis. —The object of 
this association, the director of which is the Archbishop of 
Paris, is to promote marriage among poor people living in 
concubinage, and to contribute to the legitimizing of their 
offspring. Many thousands of persons and children have been 
benefited by it since its establishment in 1826. 

Societe DE LA Providence.— The object of this charitable in¬ 
stitution is to give out-door relief to poor families, to procure 
to poor children a Christian education, besides teaching them 
a trade, and lastly to contribute to the maintenance of the fol¬ 
lowing establishment, by an annual payment of 6,000 fr. for 
which it has the right of nomination to 20 gratuitous places. 

Asile Royal de la Providence.— This institution, closely allied 
to the former, was founded in 1804 by M. and Madame Micault 
de la Vieuville, and patronized by Louis XVIII. It offers a re¬ 
treat to old persons of 60 and upwards, at the cost of 600 fr. 
each per annum. Infirm persons may be admitted before the 
specified age. Resides the sum contributed by the Societe de la 
Providence, the Ministry of the Interior contributes 10,000 fr. 
per annum, and has the right of nomination to sixteen gra¬ 
tuitous places. A few of the pensioners pay only 300 fr. At 
present the number of inmates is 63. The director is named by 
the Minister of the Interior. The establishment is at 13, Rar- 
riere des Martyrs, extra mures. 

Resides the above benevolent societies, there are in Paris 


charitable INSTITUTIONS. 4 05 

several associations de travail pour lespauvres (work-societies), 
at the head of which are ladies of high rank, who meet to make 
articles, which are collected, and at a public exhibition of 
them sold for the benefit of the poor. Lotteries are also formed 
during the course of the winter in the different arrondisse- 
ments, to which artists and benevolent persons are invited to 
contribute their works, etc. Considerable sums are thus raised 
by the sale of the tickets, and are distributed to the poor by 
the Mayors. In most of the parishes of Paris also there are 
associations paroissiales de bienfaisance, for the education of 
poor children, and the relief of the aged and infirm. 

Nearly connected with the hospitals is the 

Administrationdu Mont de Piete, 18, rue des Blancs Manteaux, 
and rue du Paradis, au Marais.—This establishment has one suc- 
cursale. at 20, rue des Petits Augustins, and two auxiliary offices, 
one at 24, rue de la Montagne Ste. Genevieve, and another at 
37, rue de la Pepiniere; a third succursale is projected in the 
Clos St. l.azare. The Mont de Piete was created in 1777 for the 
benefit of the hospitals. It enjoys the exclusive privilege of lend¬ 
ing, upon moveable effects, four-fifths of the value of gold and 
silver articles, and two-thirds of the value of other effects. The 
interest for money which it borrows varies according to the 
pressure of the times; it is generally 4 per cent.; the lowest rate 
at which it has ever been able to effect a loan was 2 l / 2 per cent. 
The interest to the public upon pledges used to be 12 percent.; 
it is now reduced to 9, or 'A per cent, for 15 days, being the 
shortest term on which it can be lent after the lapse of the first 
month, the interest of which must be paid entire, even though 
the loan last but a few days. The pledges of the day before are 
brought every morning from the offices of the different commis¬ 
sionaires to the warehouses of the central establishment, or to 
the succursale. A caisse d'd-comptes enables borrowers to refund 
at intervals portions of sums advanced (even l fr. is received), 
so as gradually to extinguish the loan; few, however, avail 
themselves of it. Parties must be known and domiciliated, or 
produce a passport or papers en regie , otherwise they cannot 
pledge any article. About 3000 are pledged daily. Loans are 
effected from 9 to 4, and articles are redeemed from 9 to 2, 
After a year, the effects are liable to be sold by auction, and 
the surplus paid to the borrower, on application within three 
years from the date of the duplicate, after which time the sur¬ 
plus is given to the Administration des Hospices. Within one 
or two months, however, after the expiration of the first year 
the duplicate can he renewed, on payment of the interest due 
upon it; and it is then good for another year. There are 21 
commissioners established in different quarters of the town to 


INTRODUCTION. 


106 

receive articles on pledge for the Mont de Piele, but they take an 
extra 2 per cent, for the first loan, 2 per cent more for every 
renewal, 1 per cent, on redeeming, or 1 per cent, more for 
cashing the surplus in case the sale of the pledge has been effect¬ 
ed. The receipts of this institution vary from 2G to 28 millions 
of francs per annum, upon 1,500,000 articles pledged and re¬ 
newed, each article costing the establishment in storage and other 
expenses 12 sous, their average value being about 18 fr. (I) The 
Mont de Piete is insured for 6,000,000 fr.; the succursale for 
2,000,000 fr. All the appraisers are moreover conjointly respon¬ 
sible for the value set upon the articles. 

Savings Bank, (Caisse d’Epargne et de Pre'voyance,) founded 
in 1818; has its central office at 5, rue Coq Heron : there are 
10 dependent offices in different parts of the city, open on 
Sundays and Mondays, and several in the banlieue, open on 
Sundays only. The administration is nearly gratuitous, being 
mostly paid out of money with which it was endowed by the 
original founders. Deposits of from 1 fr. to 300 fr. are received 
at one time, and inscribed in a livret given to the depositor, who 
is not allowed to have more than one in his own name. The 
rate of interest for the ensuing year is fixed by the council of 
directors in the month of December; for 1845 it was 3 % per 
cent. Not more than 2,000 fr. can be kept by each individual, 
nor can the delay between the demand and the reimbursement 
of the whole or part of any deposit exceed 12 days. In 1846 
there were in France upwards of 400 of these establishments. 
The bank upon demand buys rentes or stock with the money in 
hand provided it be sufficient to insure 10 fr. interest. (2) All 

(11 The number of articles pledged during 1845 was l,456,018 ; of 
which 627,042 not exceeding the value of 5 fr., and twenty-seven the 
value of 5,000 fr. and upwards. The total loans on all these articles 
amounted to 26,217,381 fr. The number of articles redeemed, repledged, 
or sold, was i,4i l,277, producing 25,390,223 fr. In 1846, the number of 
articles pledged or repledged was 1,543,550, the loans amounting to 
27,017,876 fr. The articles redeemed were 534,620, amounting to 
7,390,9i l fr. A progressive increase has continually prevailed ever since 
the origin of the establishment. The Mont de Pietd employs 300 persons, 
whose salaries amount to 501,200 fr. In the severe winter of ) 847 , this 
establishment allowed all articles pledged for sums not exceeding io fr. 
and consisting of necessary utensils, tools, and clothes, to he redeemed 
free of interest. From Dec. 9lh 1846 to March 3 1 st 1847, no less than 
105,883 articles were thus redeemed, to the amount of 55 1 ,23i fr. The 
amount of interest lost upon this sum was 31,444 fr. 

(2) The savings banks of Paris received during the first eight vears of 
their existence, up to 1826, the sum of 24,930.000 fr.; in the next eight 
years, to the end of 1834, a period unsettled by the events which pre¬ 
ceded and immediately followed the revolution, 44,679,000 fr. ;from 1835 
to the end of 1 842, 250,000,000 fr.! During the first period there were 


COMMERCIAL ESTABLISHMENTS. \ 07 

the money received, which here, as in the departments, mostly 
belongs to workmen and servants, is paid over to the Caisse 
des Depots et Consignations, (t) 

Societe de Secours Mutuels entre Ouvriers.— At Paris there 
are about 170 of these mutual benefit societies, composed alto¬ 
gether of about 14,000 members. The most ancient, that of 
St. Anne, dates from 1694. 

Freemasons.— After the enumeration of the charitable institu¬ 
tions, we may take notice of the Order of Freemasons of Paris. 
Of the Rit Ecossais ancien et accepte there are 9 lodges in Paris, 
and 12 in France; of the Rit Francais ou Moderne there are 60 
ateliers in Paris, and 500 in France. The Grand Orient Macon- 
nique holds its meetings at 10, rue des Mathurins St. Jacques; 
the Ordre de Misraimen tigypte and the other societies at 45, rue 
de Grenelle St. Honore. Nearly all other societies, the forms 
of which are secret, are now forbidden by law. 

COMMERCIAL ESTABLISHMENTS.— The Chamber of Com¬ 
merce consists of the prefect of the department and 15 bankers 
or merchants, 5 of whom are elected annually. They commu¬ 
nicate with the government upon commercial affairs, super¬ 
intend buildings connected with commerce, and attend to the 
execution of the laws against smuggling, etc. They meet at the 
Exchange every Wednesday. 

The Exchange is open daily from 1 till 3 for the negotiation 
of public effects, and till 5 'A o’clock for other transactions. 
60 agents de change, 60 courtiers de commerce, and 8 courtiers 
d’assurance, named by the King, are alone authorised to transact 
public business here. The negotiation of Stock, railroad shares, 
bills of exchange, etc., belongs exclusively to the agents de 
change, but bills are allowed by tolerance to be negotiated by 
brokers. The courtiers de commerce certify the price of gold 
and silver, fix the price of merchandize, rates of freight, etc., 
The courtiers d’assurance fix the rates of insurances, etc. The 
legal price of public effects and goods is fixed daily at the close 
of Change by the agents de change and courtiers, and registered 
by the Commissaire de la Bourse. 

Bank of France, rue de la Vrilliere. — This institution was 

20,000 depositors, during the second 49,000, and during the last 150,000! 
In 1846 the receipts were 4 1 ,192,615 fr., proceeding from 274,235 de¬ 
posits. The total number of depositors, since the creation of savings 
banks, was 184,908, and the total amount, including capitalised interest 
up to the end of the year, was 9i,864,514 fr. 

(l) The Caisse des Depots et Consignations bought, from the 1 st of 
August 1845 to March 3ist 1847, rentes for the account of the Paris 
savings bank, to the amount of 10,646,101 fr., and for that of the de¬ 
partmental savings banks to the amount of 4,541,853 fr. 


INTIIODUCTION. 


\ 08 

formed in 1803, by a law which gave it the exclusive privilege 
of issuing notes payable to the bearer at sight, until the 3ist 
December 1867. It is directed by a governor, 2 deputy govern¬ 
ors, 16 regents, 3 censors, and a council which superintends 
the discounts, composed of twelve members. It lias besides 
15 branch banks in the departments, and l at Algiers. The 
governor presides over the council of regency, and every year 
a general council, composed of 200 of the greatest shareholders, 
audits the accounts of the institution. The operations of the 
Bank consist in discounting bills of exchange or to order, at 
dates which cannot exceed three months, stamped and gua¬ 
ranteed by at least three signatures of merchants or others of 
undoubted credit; in advancing money on government bills, 
of fixed dates; in advancing money on bullion or foreign gold 
and silver coin; in keeping an account for voluntary deposits 
of every kind, government securities national and foreign, 
shares, contracts, bonds of every kind, bills of exchange, other 
bills, and all engagements to order or to bearer, gold and 
silver bars, national and foreign coin, and diamonds, with a 
charge for keeping, according to the value of the deposit, 
which cannot exceed an eighth of one per cent, for every 
period of six months and under; in undertaking to recover the 
payment of bills on account of individuals and public esta¬ 
blishments having accounts current with the Bank; to receive 
m a current account sums from individuals and public esta¬ 
blishments , and to pay the engagements it thereby contracts, 
to the amount of the sums entrusted. The bank is open from 
9 to 4 daily, except Sundays and festivals, for the exchange 
of bills against specie and for discounting. To be admitted to 
discount, and to have a running account at the bank, a request 
must be made in writing to the governor, and be accompanied 
by the certificate of three well-known persons. The usufruct 
of bank shares may be ceded, but the fee-simple may still be 
disposed of. The shares may be iramobilisees, that is, con¬ 
verted into real property, by a declaration of the proprietor; 
they are then, like any kind of real property, subject to the 
same^ laws, and have the same prerogatives. The capital of 
the Bank of France, which at first consisted of 45 millions of 
francs, has since been doubled, and would now be represented 
by 90,000 shares of 1,000 fr. each, if the administration of the 
concern had not bought up 22,100 shares; from whence it 
follows that the 67,900 shares actually existing represent the 
entire capital. The interest on these shares, which varies com¬ 
monly from 12 to 15 per cent., can never be under 6 per cent. 
A law of 17th May, 1834, fixes the reserved fund at 10 millions 
of francs. The lowest rate of discount is 4 per cent. The notes 


COMMERCIAL ESTABLISHMENTS. 109 

of the Bank of France are all of 1,000 fr., 500 fr., and, by the 
new law of 1847, of 200 fr., and the total value of those in cir¬ 
culation is 333 millions of francs. There are 228 millions of 
Irancs in the Bank Treasury. The annual circulation of money 
through all its departments is about 11 milliards. The accounts 
are made up, verified, and submitted to the governor every 
evening, (l) 

Caisse d’Amortissement et Caisse des Depots et Consignations. 

These two establishments, both under the sole control of the 
legislative powers, though perfectly distinct from each other, 
are administered by the same director-general, sub-director, 
and treasurer, who are independent of the Ministers, and re¬ 
sponsible only to a commission of superintendence , nominated 
by the King every three years, and consisting of a peer of France, 
who is officially president, two deputies, a president of the 
Cour des Comptes, the governor of the Bank of France, and 
the president of the Chamber of Commerce of Paris. The Caisse 
d’Amortissement conducts all operations relative to the reduc¬ 
tion of the public debt of the country. The Caisse des Depots 
et Consignations receives all moneys deposited in it in conse¬ 
quence of legal awards, and other public proceedings, or by 
any public functionaries, for which it allows interest at the rate 
of 3 per cent, per ann. after the money has been deposited 
60 days. Private individuals may also deposit money here, for 
which they receive 2 per cent, interest after the first 60 days. 
During the legislative session the president of the commission 
makes a report to the two Chambers, which is published. The 
bureaux are at l,rue del’Oratoire, opposite the Louvre. (2) 

Other Commercial Establishments.— For a list the reader is 
referred to the Almanack du Commerce, published every year, 
the names being too numerous for insertion in this work. 

(l) The following is an account of the operations of the Bank for the 


year ending Dec. 31, 1846 

Bills discounted by the central Bank. 1,191,105,704 fr. 

Do. by the branch banks. 194,393,698 

Total. 1,385,499,402 fr. 


The general circulation for deposits, etc., amounted to 259,673,000 fr., 
besides 8,320,000 fr. for the branch banks. 

(2) The following is the account published by the Caisse des D6p6ts 
et Consignations for the three months ending March 31, 1847 :— 


Receipts in cash. 1,586,349,061 fr. 

Do. in Treasury bills. 850,344,282 

Total. 2,436,693,343 fr. 

Expenses. 2,417,058,187 

Balance. 19,635,156 fr. 


The deposits still in hand at that period amounted to 567,590,144 fr. 

10 













140 


INTRODUCTION. 


®a&s>s?a& a'x? 


Q 


SOCIAL STATISTICS. 


REVENUE, TAXES, etc.— Paris generally comprises the city 
with its faubourgs or suburbs, now become an integral part of 
it, and the banlieue, or precincts and environs, comprising 37 
communes, fast merging into one body with the city. The re¬ 
ceipts of the city of Paris for the year ending March 31, 1847, 
were 62,248,441 fr.; the expenditure was 48,887,380 fr. (1) The 
revenues of the 37 communes of the banlieue amount to more 
than 1,200,000 fr. r lhe richest of them are the Batignolles, with a 
revenue of 155,832 fr.; Belleville, 1 40,000 fr.; Neuilly, 1 15,000 fr.; 
and St. Denis, 108,200 fr. The admirable financial manage¬ 
ment of the municipal affairs of file capital has brought the 
revenues of the city-chest into this healthy condition; the debt 
with which it was burthened, to the amount of 06 millions of 
francs, is being gradually paid off, and the municipality can dis¬ 
pose annually of aclear excess of more than 5 millions. The con¬ 
tributions tonciere, personnels, et mobiliere, for the depart¬ 
ment of the Seine, were last year 29,964,605 fr. 

Tarif of the Octroi and Entrance Duties.— Per hectolitre : 
Wine in wood, 18 fr. 50 c.; do. in bottles, 26 fr.; vinegar, ver¬ 
juice, etc., in wood or bottles, 10 fr. 50 c.; pure alcohol in 
wood, brandy and spirits in bottles, liqueurs, fruit in brandy 
and scented spirits in wood or bottles, 75 fr.; perry and cider 
8 fr.; beer brought to Paris, 4 fr.; do. brewed in Paris, 3 fr. (2)- 
olive oil, 40 Ir.; other oils, 20 fr.; charcoal, 50 c. per hecto* 
coals, 30 c.; oats, 60 c .—Per kilogramme: butcher’s meat 
brought into Paris, 11 */ 5 c.; (3) ditto from the abattoirs, 


(1) Among the items of receipts we line! .—Octroi Duties, 34 , 164,943 fr ; 
Maiket Duties, 2,405,6i0 ir.; Public Weights and Measures, 280,790 fr.. 
Hydraulic Establishments, 1,020,992 fr.; Caisse de Poissy, l, 464,162 fr .’ 
Abattoirs i,i7°,r,73 fr. ; Entrepots, 464,ii7 fr., Rents of Standings on 
Public Ways, 67i,86i Ir.; Duties on Burials, 498,914 fr.; Grants of 
Land in Cemeteries, 689,656 fr.; Scavengering Dues, 386,050 fr. 

Among the items of expenditure are .—Expenses of Collection, Sala¬ 
ries, etc., 2,881,903 fr.;Primary instruction, 942,606 fr.;Public Worship 
82,467 Ir.; National Guard and Military Service, 927,554 fr.: Hospices 
and Charitable Establishments, 5,427,386 fr.; Expenses of the Prefecture 
of Police, 10,363,171 fr.; Libraries, Museums, Promenades, 105,576 fr • 
Colleges and Establishments of Public Instruction, 122,842 fr. • Public 
FOtes, 261,924 fr.; New Public Works, 5 , 939,997 fr. 

(2) Beer was drunk for the first time in Paris in 1428. 

(3) In 1793, the octroi duly on oxen was 15 fr. a-head; co\Vs, 7 fr. 50 c 

calves, 3 fr.; sheep, 50 c. In 1815 these duties had risen to 23 fr, 10 c 
13 fr. 20 c., 5 fr. 56 c., and i fr. 32 c. 1 






SOCIAL STATISTICS. \\ 4 

9 2 / 5 c. ( 1 ) sausages, hams, pork, etc., 22 c.; calves’heads, feel, 
tripe, etc., 8 c.; pork ditto, 4 c. dry cheese, 10c.; salt, 5c.; white 
wax, wax and spermaceti candles, 30 c.; bees’ wax and rough 
spermaceti, 20 c.; tallow and tallow candles, 3 fr. per 100 kilos 
—Perstere: firewood, 2fr. 05c.; white wood, 1 fr. 95 c.; wood! 
8 to 10 fr. per stere, according to the quality and form.— Per 
hundred trusses of h kilog, each : dry hay, 5 fr.; straw, 2 fr.— 
Per hundred: faggots, 1 fr.; laths (per 100 bundles), 10 fr. 

Detailed instructions are annexed to the tariff, by which it 
is regulated, and abuses are prevented. Every driver of ve¬ 
hicles, containing articles subject to duty, is bound to make 
declaration thereof at the bureau before lie enters Paris; to 
show his way-bill to the officers, and pay the duties, upon 
pain of a fine equal to the value of the articles in question. The 
officers have power to make any examination necessary to 
ascertain the truth of his declaration. Any article introduced 
without having been declared, or upon a false declaration, is 
liable to be seized. The officers cannot use the probing-iron 
in their examination of boxes, packages, etc., declared to 
contain goods that may suffer damage. Diligences, waggons, 
carts, cabriolets, and all carriages for transport, are subject to 
examination. No individual, whatever be his dignity or func¬ 
tions, is exempt, on his entering the barrier in his carriage, from 
inspection or the duties. 

The produce of the Octroi duties has increased gradually 
every year for some time back; in 1834 it amounted to 
27,084,000 fr. In 1846 it was 33,988,181 fr., the expenses of 
collecting amounting to 2,034,000 fr. The walls round Paris 
have a circuit of 24,000 metres (about 15 miles), and 943 per¬ 
sons of various grades are employed in the Octroi service. ( 2 ) 

There are no authentic returns published of the produce of 
the different manufactures of the capital calculated to the pre¬ 
sent day. An immense increase has, however, taken place 
within the last 10 years, and is still proceeding very rapidly. 
The prefect of the department, in a late report, estimates the 

(1) The difference of these two prices is owing to the droits d'abat- 
tacje, or lax for killing in the slaughter-houses of Paris, which is 1 1 2 * 4 / 5 c. 
per kilog. 

(2) The receipts of indirect taxes for all France were, in 1845, 
803,902,000 fr.; in 1846, 823,291,000 fr. Among the items of the latter 

year we find .-—Registration-dues, etc., 214,831,000 fr.; Stamps, 
40,426,000 fr. ; Customs, Navigation, etc., 105,586,000 fr.; Foreign 
Sugars, 11,251,000 fr.; French Colonial ditto, 37,122,000 fr.; Indigenous 
ditto, 17,150,000 f.; Salt Dues (Extraction and Consumption), 68 , 221,000 f ; 
Potable Liquors, 102 , 374,000 fr.; Tobacco Sales, 116,051,000 fr. ; Letters 

and Duly on sending money, 50,322,000 fr. 


INTRODUCTION. 


M2 

manufactures of Paris, exported to foreign countries, at 80 
millions of francs annually; and those for the consumption of 
the departments at the same sum. Of the manufacturing esta¬ 
blishments within the walls of Paris, or in its immediate vici¬ 
nity, three belong to the government, viz., one, the Gobelins, 
for tapestry and carpets; one for snuff and tobacco; and the 
third for porcelain. The first of these does not sell its products; 
but the second furnishes nearly a fifth of the snuff consumed in 
the country; the sale of which in 1844 amounted to 95 mil¬ 
lions of francs. The third, situated at Sevres, is maintained ra¬ 
ther as a laboratory for useful experiments in the manufacture 
of porcelain than as a source of profit: its sales, though very 
great, barely cover the expenses. Of the other manufactures 
of the capital, paper-hangings, leather, jewellery, chemical 
products, gas, fine hardware, fans, etc., give occupation to a 
vast number of persons, and yield considerable profits. Print¬ 
ing, engraving, and the preparation of all substances and ma¬ 
terials connected with the fine arts, as well as the compound¬ 
ing of sugared sweetmeats, bonbons, etc., form very extensive 
branches of trade. (1) The following, showing the proportion 
in which the principal manufactures and arts figured at the 
last quinquennial national exhibition, may give an idea of their 
present state and progress : Metallurgy, 355; mechanics and 
optics, 370; musical instruments, 150; chemistry and its appli¬ 
cation, 100; fine arts, bronzes, goldsmiths, 3G0; spinners and 
weavers, felt, and tanners, 290; paper work, pasteboard, 70; 
mineral substances, 45; ploughing machines and domestic eco¬ 
nomy, 25; plastics and glass, 60; lighting and pyrotechny, 90; 
utensils, etc., 229. On the above occasion 31 exhibitors received 
the order of the Legion of Honour, 126 the gold, 426 the silver, 


(l) The following is a table of the exports from Paris, for the last 16 
years, extracted from the entries at the Custom House.-— 


1830 . . 64,231,108 fr. 

1833 . . 95,274,381 

1836 . . 134,495,449 


1839 . . 131,573,066 fr 

1842 . . 121,672,089 

1846 . . 148,888,127 


The exports have thus been more than doubled in 15 years; the declara¬ 
tions being made a fourth, at least, below their real value.—The number 
of tradesmen’s licenses issued in Paris during 1846 was 56,707; for 
which 9,100,000 fr. were paid.—In 1846 there were 15,000 more licenses 
than in 1830. —The following was the amount of the general imports 
and exports in France in the following years— 


IMPORTATION. 

General Commerce. Special do. 

1836. 905,575,359fr. 564,391,553 fr. 

1839. 946,471,426 650,585,597 

1842. 1,142,033,203 846,606,940 

1815. 1,240,000,000 856,000,000 


EXPORTATION. 

General Commerce. Special do. 

1836. 961,284,756 fr. 628,957,480 fr. 

1839. 1,003,331,788 677,377,096 

1842. 940,250,887 643,961,677 

1845. 1,187,000,000 848,000,000 




SOCIAL STATISTICS. \ \ 3 

386 the bronze medal, honourable mention 763 : total honours 
conferred, 1732, out of 3963 exhibitors. 

According to a very interesting table published in Mr. H. L. 
Bulwer’s work on France, to which the reader is referred for 
much curious information, it appears that of the journeymen 
employed in Paris, the cotton-spinners are paid the worst and 
work the hardest; since they receive only from 1 to 2 fr. per 
diem, and work for 12 or 15 hours. The general average of 
wages in most other trades varies from 3 to 5 fr. a-day; and 
the number of hours from 10 to 12. The rag-collectors, or 
chiffonniers, realize from 1 fr. 50 c. to 2 fr. a-day. Workwo¬ 
men receive very low wages in Paris, from 15 to 30 sous being 
the ordinary average. Young women in shops receive their 
food, washing, and lodging, and are paid from 150 fr. to 400 fr. 
per annum. The ordinary expense of a journeyman is from 20 
to 30 sous daily for food, and from 5 to 6 fr. per month for lodg¬ 
ing. A great part of the Paris workmen do no work on Mon¬ 
day or on Sunday afternoon. Their condition has been observed 
to improve nearly in the same proportion as Savings’ Banks have 
increased; and will still more so by the diffusion of primary 
education, and the abolition, of the lottery and gaming-houses. 

CONSUMPTION.—The following is a statement of the con¬ 
sumption of Paris in round numbers for 1846. (1) 

Fine oils, 5,277 hectolitres; wines, 1,048,851 hectolitres; spirits 
54,908 hect.; cider and perry, 1 7,581 hect.; vinegar, 18,872 hect.; beer, 
126,142 hect.; grapes, 208,298 kilos; oxen, 79,995 ; cows, 22,586 ; calves, 
84,360 ; sheep, 486,445; bulls, 1,848 ; bucks, 243 ; goats, 333 ; pigs and 
boars, 96,888 ; tallow, 4,909,502 kilos ; pies, prepared meals, crabs, etc., 
370,192 kilos; coarse meat, 3,668,062 kilos; sausages, hams, etc., 
1,337,911 kilos; offal, 1,685,185 kilos; dry cheese, 1,501,471 kilos,- bread, 
140,000,000 kilos (2); hay, 7,931,546 bundles; straw, 12,666,634 buudles; 
oats, 983,669 liectol.; sea-fish, 6,620,242 fr.; oysters, 1,859,868 fr. 
fresh-water fish, 710,368 fr.; poultry and game, 9,417,771 fr.; butler, 
9,832,174 fr.; eggs, 5,738,069 fr. 

The ordinary consumption of Paris in grain and flour, sold at the 
Halle au Ble, is estimated at 2000 sacks, each weighing 159 kilo¬ 
grammes, daily, and when the price of bread is higher out of Paris 
than within the walls, flour and grain are carried out for sale, and 
the daily consumption then exceeds that quantity. The price 

(1) The cost of the consumption of Paris is estimated at 350,000,000 fr. 
Wine enters into this amount for 49,000,000 fr.; milk, 12 , 000,000 fr.'; 
groceries, 78,000,000 fr.; salt, 2,000,000 fr.; bread, 38,000,000 fr.; meat 
and pork, 40,000,000 fr.; vegetables, 15,000,000 fr. 

(2) This item in 1815 amounted to only 16 millions, owing in some 
measure to bread being a fourth dearer than it has been of late years. 


INTRODUCTION. 


\M 

of bread is fixed, twice a-month, by the municipal authorities; 
it varies, with the price of Hour, but may be averaged at 6 sous 
per kilogramme for best quality, or not quite 1 'Ad. a-pound 
English, in the winter of 1846-1847 it was however, as dear as 
6 ‘A sous a-pound. 

The greatest numbers of oxen for the Paris markets are 
brought from the departments of Calvados, Maine-et-Loire, 
Eure, Manche, Orne, Vendee, and Haute-Vienne; their average 
price is from 300 to 400 lr. a-head. Cows come principally 
from the districts of Maine, Normandy, Beauce, and Brie; their 
value is from 100 to 250 fr. Calves come from Auvergne and 
Normandy, but are bought up by the dealers of Pontoise, and 
there fattened for the capital; their average value is from 75 
toOOfr. Sheep are sent in the greatest numbers from the Seine- 
el-Oise, Indre, Marne, Orne, and Germany; they sell from 20 
to 26 fr. each. The capital employed in the purchase of cattle 
for Paris last year was upwards of 47,000,000 fr. 

The tobacco annually sold in Paris is valued at 708,793 kilo¬ 
grammes : 852,200 steres of hard wood (hois dur) are burnt 
annually in the capital, as well as 113,860 steres of white wood 
( hois blanc ), 1,668,147 hectolitres of charcoal; and 3,000,000 
hectolitres of coal. 

MARKETS, etc.— The first market-house in Paris was situ¬ 
ated in the Cite, near the street still called rue du Marche Palu. 
A market, called Marche de l’Apport, was afterwards held near 
the extremity of the rue St. Denis, till the reign of Louis VI., 
who transferred it to a piece of ground near the cemetery des 
Innocents, named Champeaux, or Petits Champs. Philip Au¬ 
gustus established two other markets near the same spot, and 
they took the name of halles. Each class of dealers and every 
neighbouring town had its particular halle. Francis I. caused 
all the halles to be rebuilt, with pillars of stone opening into 
dirty galleries, obstructed with irregular stalls. The inconve¬ 
nience of these places began to be felt in the last century, and 
market-houses, for all sorts of provisions, have since been 
constructed in every part of Paris.—The following is a list of 
the various markets, halles, etc. : (1)— Marchd de's Innocents , 
for fruit, vegetables, etc., to which are attached the following 
markets and halles : Marchd au Beurre; au Fromage; aux 
OEufs; au Poisson; au Pain; aux Pommes de terre ; aux Oi- 
gnons; des Herboristes; Halle aux Draps; aux Cuirs. General 
markets : Marche des Blancs Manteaux; Beauvcau; do la Made¬ 
leine; du Route ; des Carmcs; St. llonord;St. Joseph; St. Ger - 

(l) A halle signifies a place where goods of any kind are sold wholesale; 
a marchd is where the commodities of life are purchased retail. 


ABATTOIRS (SLAUGHTER-HOUSES). MB 

main; St. Martin; du Faubourg du Temple. Meat-market, Mar¬ 
che des Prouvaires. Poultry-market, Marche des Augustins. 
Oysters, Halle aux Huitrcs. Flower-markets, Marche du Quai 
aux Fleurs, du Boulevard St. Martin, de la Madeleine, and 
St. Sulpice. Rags and Old Clothes-markets, Marche du Temple, 
de St. Jacques, etc. To these may be added the Halle au Bid, 
Halle aux Vins, and Halle aux Veaux, as well as the Marche aux 
Chevaux and the Marche aux Fourrages. There are also several 
smaller ones, which are not worthy of particular notice. The 
dealers in the market-places amount to nearly 9000. (1) 

ABATTOIRS ( SLAUGHTER-HOUSES ).-Previous to the for¬ 
mation of these establishments for the slaughter of cattle, but¬ 
chers were accustomed to drive oxen and sheep through the 
streets, to the great danger of the inhabitants. Besides, these 
animals contributed in a great degree to render the streets of 
the capital more dirty, while the private slaughter-houses im¬ 
pregnated the atmosphere with noxious effluvia. A remedy for 
these nuissances had long been desired, when, in 1809, Napoleon 
decreed the construction of live public abattoirs at the extre¬ 
mities of the city, and the suppression of the slaughter-houses 
in the central parts of Paris. Of these establishments three are 
to the north of the city; viz. the Abattoirs du Roule, de Mont¬ 
martre, and de Popincourt; and two to the south, viz. those 
of Villejuif and of Grenelle. The five abattoirs being finished in 
1818, at an expense of 10,518,000 fr., a police ordonnance was 
issued for their opening, and prohibited from that day cattle 
being driven to private stables or slaughter-houses. Houses for 
melting the tallow and drying the skins are attached to each 
of these establishments. The butchers pay no duty upon the 
animals slaughtered here, it being included in the octroi duty 
paid at the gate on entering Paris. Strangers should visit one 
of these establishments; they must apply for a guide at the 
porter’s lodge, to whom a small fee is given. 

The number of butchers in Paris exceeds 500, who each find 
security for 3000 fr. The melting-houses in the 5 abattoirs have 
been placed at the disposal of persons called fondeurs (melters), 
Avho must not be tallow-chandlers. The abattoirs of Popin- 
court and Montmartre have each 64 slaughter-houses, that of 

(l) It may be interesting to mention three facts that have lately been 
ascertained. The annual consumption of potatoes in Paris is nearly 
325,000 kilogrammes, or about 650,000 lb. The daily consumption of 
peas (in the season) is estimated at 200,000 litres, or 52,837 gallons. 
More than 20 cart-loads of water-cresses are brought into Paris daily. 
To give an idea of the consumption of flowers in Paris, it may be men¬ 
tioned that on some particular days there are exposed for sale in the 
different markets of the capital 30,000 pots of flowers, valued at 45,000 fr. 


4 4 6 INTRODUCTION. 

Grenelle 48, and the two others 32 each. Besides these abat¬ 
toirs there are three others, appropriated exclusively to the 
use of the pork-butchers, at 81, rue du Cherche-Midi, 152, quai 
Jemmappes, and 8, rue St. Michel, a la Petite Pologne. It is, 
however, in contemplation to unite these in a new one, to be 
built near the barriere des Fourneaux. Country butchers are 
allowed to bring meat to the markets of Paris upon paying a 
duty of 11 Vs c. per kilog. 

The PORTS along the sides of the river, or wharfs, are places 
where goods may be landed and sold as in an entrepot, there 
being always officers of the customs in attendance to examine 
the nature and quantity of the cargoes discharged. Of these the 
principal are the Port de la Rapde, for wine and fire-wood; 
aux Tuiles, for tiles, bricks, slates, etc.; St. Nicolas, for mer¬ 
chandise from Rouen; d’Orsay , for wine, stone, etc.; des Inva¬ 
lided and Austerlits, for fire-wood. A new port is also in course 
of construction on the Canal St. Martin along the boulevard 
Contrescarpe. The transport on the river is very considerable, 
and is effected by large boats called coches d’eau, by barks, and 
by steamers.—Depots for fire-wood are to be found along the 
river and on all the outskirts of the town. The wood is brought 
down the river either in rafts or in barges; the latter sort 
being of a more expensive quality. Charcoal and coal are sold 
on board boats that lie off the lie de la Cite and lie St. Louis 
as well as along the Canal de l’Ourcq, a large market for char¬ 
coal having been established near the top of the rue du Fau¬ 
bourg St. Martin, in the rue des Recollets. 

From the departments above Paris, about 12,000 boats arrive 
annually, with fruit, hay, corn, flour, tiles, bricks, wine, hemp, 
flax, paving-stones, etc.; besides about 5,000 floats of timber’ 
fire-wood, and charcoal. From Havre and Rouen there come 
yearly about 600 boats with glass, cider, wine, brandy, salt, 
foreign corn, colonial produce, etc. The average annual duties 
paid for the navigation of the Seine amount to about 1,000,000 fr. 


PHYSICAL STATISTICS. 

STREETS AND HOUSES, etc.— It has been calculated that 
there are more than 45,000 houses and 13,000 shops in Paris of 
all descriptions. The streets are 1270 in number; avenues and 
alleys,38/boulevards,21; places,99;carrefours, 33;courts,54• 
passages, 187; alleys not thoroughfares, 163; bridges on the 
Seine and the Canal St. Martin, 33; quays, 37; ports, 15. The 
total area of the public highways has been estimated at about 



PHYSICAL STATISTICS. 447 

3,300,000 square metres, and their length at 500,000 metres or 
125 leagues. The total length of foot pavement, or trottoirs is 
at present 160 kilometres, or 40 leagues. About a tenth part 
of the pavement of Paris is repaired, and a fortieth part 
laid down in new stone, every year, (l) 

the streets of Paris have all been formed, more or less, upon 
the model ot those which existed in the older parts of the town 
long before coaches were invented, or carts and waggons ever 
traversed the city; and since the civilisation and comfort of the 
lower and middling orders were entirely neglected by the slate 
until the revolution of 1789, the streets of Paris, frequented by 
the artisan rather than by the noble, remained unimproved till 
within the last 50 or 60 years. The municipality of Paris have, 
however, since 1830, devoted their attention to the widening 
and embellishing of their roadways; and large sums are now 
annually expended for that most desirable purpose. According 
to the last report, the quantity of ground that must be ceded 
to the City at an estimated value by private persons, in order 
to carry out the plans of improvement lately decided on, will 
amount to 1,120,862 metres, valued at 136,000,000 fr. (2) Still 
parts of the interior of Paris must long retain the appearance 
of a town of the middle ages; and until the habits of the peo¬ 
ple themselves can be improved, and the regulations of the 
police be more strictly enforced, the mud and the black noi¬ 
some gutters of the greater part of the central streets of this 
capital will still offend the senses of the visitor, and render the 
task of attempting to explore them as unpleasant as in every 
other respect it must be interesting. According to the orders 
of the prefect of police, no rubbish is allowed to be thrown 
into the streets except at night or early in the morning; and 
every proprietor is bound to sweep his half of the road, in 
front of his walls, every morning, and in the summer to water 
it. The sweepings and rubbish of Paris are farmed by the city 

(1) Streets were first paved under the reign of Philip Augustus. The 
following is a table of the progressive increase of pavements since 


1280, and their cost, 

per metre. 



Years. 

Length. 

Surface. 

Cost. 

1280 

35,000 m. 

178,000 sq.m. 

i fr. 

1638 

160,000 

848,000 

4 

1700 

270,000 

1,672,000 

5 

1800 

350,000 

2,500,000 

7 

1820 

380,000 

2,755,000 

8 

1846 

500,000 

3,360,000 

10 


In 1846, the total surface of the footways amounted to 530,000 metres; 
the cost of extending and repairing the streets was 1,650,000 fr. ; 
1,083,000 metres are at the charge of the State; the rest at the charge of 
the City of Paris. 

(2) Since 1807,22,000 houses have been demolished to widen the streets. 


INTRODUCTION. 


m 

for 500,000 fr. After having rotted in pits for that purpose, the 
soil is sold at the rate of 3 and 5 fr. per cubic metre, and pro¬ 
duces about 3,000,000 fr. !—It would be difficult to determine 
what style of architecture prevails throughout Paris, since it 
varies according to the antiquity of the different quarters. 
Most of the line Gothic palaces which once adorned the city 
have been sacrificed to modern improvements; the pure Italian 
style is rarely met with except in buildings of late construction, 
as those of the two last centuries mostly betray that degeneracy 
of taste which led artists to adorn Gothic churches with Greek 
fronts, and to represent the fourteenth Louis as Hercules 
crowned with a wig (see the Porte St. Marlin). Some recent 
buildings in the modern parts of the town show a tendency to 
revive the taste for Gothic ornaments, which are sometimes 
so minute and so profusely lavished on the front, as to give the 
ensemble an appearance of tawdriness rather than architectural 
beauty. (1) 

The stone used for forming the pavements of the streets and 
places of the metropolis, as well as of many of the high-roads 
of France, is of the most excellent description, being a com¬ 
pact and exceedingly hard sandstone, highly crystallized, found 
oil the outskirts of the Paris Basin. The footways are gene¬ 
rally made with the lavas and basalts of Volvic, in Auvergne ; 
but an invention introduced within the last 10 years, and 
coming daily more and more into use, consists of a mixture of 
asphaltum and gravel, which, being poured in a hot fluid stale 
on a level plastered surface, hardens immediately, and will 
endure great wear and tear. The cost of lava flagging is about 
13 fr. per square metre; that of common paving-stone for 
carriage-ways, about 10 fr. when new, and 3 fr. every 10 years 
for repairs. The price of bitumen flagging is 8 fr. per square 
metre, but it is little used in the streets. The wood pavement 
has been tried in a few localities of Paris, but has not been 
successful. In 1840 the total cost of extending and repairing 
the pavement of Paris was 1,150,000 fr. 

It was not till the year 1728 that the useful plan was adopted 
of placing the names of streets in a conspicuous situation; and 
the names then given to them remained without variation till 
the Revolution. Previous to that period, there was scarcely a 
street in Paris that had not changed its denomination several 
times, and these changes generally had their origin in some 
particular circumstance, such as the name of a distinguished 
personage, or an extraordinary event that had occurred in 
them. The names of the streets are now painted on slabs of 

(i) In 1846 the number of houses insured amounted to 22,665, or 
nearly two-thirds of Paris, for the sum of 2,040,802,000 fr. 




PHYSICAL STATISTICS. 119 

lava, affixed to the comer houses, with white letters on a blue 
ground; all the colours being fixed by tire and quite inde¬ 
structible. As much confusion arises from several streets bearing 
the same name, it is the intention of the municipality to intro*- 
duce such changes as will obviate all existing inconvenience. 
Gi eat regularity is observed in the numbering of houses. In 
the streets parallel to the Seine the numbers follow the course 
of the river; in those perpendicular to it or nearly so, the 
lowest number begins at the extremity nearest the Seine. In 
either case the even numbers are to the right, and the odd 

ones to the left of the visitor following the course of the river, 
or turning away from it. 

Until the reign of Louis XVI., Paris was lighted during only 
nine months of the year, and then only in the absence of 
moonlight. That monarch decreed its continuance during the 
whole year. Formerly it was lighted by lamps suspended from 
ropes hung across the street, which, though aided by reflect¬ 
ors, and kept well cleaned, served for little else than to make 
darkness visible. Gas has, however, long been introduced into 
the shops and public buildings, and almost all the streets are 
thus lighted. 

PLAGES.—Every open space at the junction of streets, etc., 
of more than usual size, is termed a place. Some of them are 
remarkable for their surrounding edifices, and a few for their 
size. The principal are the Places de la Concorde, du Carrou¬ 
sel, \endome, des Victoires, Royale, etc. Descriptions of each 
will be found under the head of the Arrondissements. 

THE BOULEVARDS.—Under Louis XIV., Paris ceased to be a 
fortified city, (l) By a decree of that monarch the walls and 
towers, which had fallen into decay, were pulled down, and 
the ditches filled up. When the demolition of the southern 
enclosure had been carried into effect, the king formed the 
resolution of opening a wide road round the capital, and plant¬ 
ing it with trees. In 1670, the fortifications on the north were 
demolished, and the road, which took the name of Boulevard 
(bulwark or rampart), was planted from the rue St. Antoine to 
the rue St. Martin. In the following year the Porte St. Denis 
was demolished, the triumphal arch, which bears the same 
name, was erected, and the Boulevard was continued from the 
rue St. Martin to the rue St. Honore. The northern boulevards 
being finished in 1704, the king issued a decree for similar 
works to be executed on the south; they, however, proceeded 
very slowly, and were not finished till 1761. Under the govern- 

(l)Early in 184 1 , while forminga water-course for the rue Rambuteau, 
the workmen reached the old wall of Paris, built under Philip Augustus, 
in 1190. It was found to run exactly as traced in the old plansof the city, 


420 INTRODUCTION. 

ment of Napoleon, the boulevard on the northern bank of the 
Seine was prolonged from the rue St. Antoine to the river. 

The boulevards which, since the formation of a similar road 
outside the barriers, have been distinguished by the name of 
Boulevard interieur, form two grand divisions, called the Bou¬ 
levard du Nord and the Boulevard du Midi. The former is 
5,067 yards in length, and is subdivided into 12 parts, bearing, 
from east to west, the following names : the Boulevards Bour¬ 
don, Beaumarchais, desFillesdu Calvaire, du Temple, St. Martin, 
St.Denis, Bonne Nouvelle,Poissonniere, Montmartre,desltaliens, 
des Capucines, and de la Madeleine. The Boulevard du Midi is 
16,100 yards in length, and is divided into 7 parts, as follows: 
the Boulevards de l’Hopital, des Gobelins, de la Glaciere, St. 
Jacques, d’Enfer, du Mont Parnasse, and des Invalides. These 
spacious roads are planted with four rows of trees, forming a 
carriage-road with a double walk on each side. (1) Tli e Boulevard 
exterieur, which was not finished till 1814, is planted with 
trees, and divided into several parts, bearing different deno¬ 
minations. The name of the street called rue Basse du Rem- 
part, bordering the boulevards on the north side, still indicates 
what it once was. The northern boulevards are the pride and 
glory of Paris. Once its bulwarks, they are now become its 
ornament. Their spacious extent, the dazzling beauty, the 
more than luxury of the shops, the restaurants, the cafes, on 
or near them; the lofty houses, some of them of the most 
classical and ornate architecture; (2) the crowds of well-dressed 
persons who frequent them; the glancing of lights among trees 
planted amid the broadest thoroughfares of a great city; the 
sounds of music; the incessant roll of carriages, about 20,000 of 
which circulate daily throughout the town; all this forms a 
medley of sights and sounds not a little perplexing, though any¬ 
thing but unpleasing, to the eye and ear of the visitor who 
perambulates them for the first time on a fine evening. The 
Boulevard des Italiens is the most fashionable part. Here in 
fine weather loungers of both sexes seat themselves, and thus 
pass a great part of the day. Nothing can exceed the gaiety of 
this spot till midnight. The chairs are hired for two sous each. 
The people prefer the Boulevard du Temple, where puppet- 
shows, pantomimes, rope-dancing, mountebanks, etc., are always 
ready to amuse them; and on Sunday evenings this spot resembles 
a fair. The boulevards to the south offer a striking contrast to 
this lively picture. On their sides, at considerable distances, 
are some elegant houses and gardens a Vanglaise, but no crowds, 

(1) The item of plantations cosls the City of Paris 30,000 fr. a-year. 

(2) The traveller’s attention is called to the gorgeous building at the 
corner of rue Laflitte, named CiU des Italiens, or Maison fiorte. 


PHYSICAL STATISTICS. i\%) 

no noise; the air is pure and salubrious, and those who like a 
solitary shady walk will here be gratified. The exterior bou¬ 
levards are the same as the southern ones; except that they 
are studded with guinguettes, where the lower orders of Paris 
resort to dance, and to drink wine, thus evading the duties of 
the city octroi. Those on the south-east and north-west are 
the most agreeable. 

PASSAGES.—These are a grand resort of all the loungers of 
the town. The most remarkable are : the Passages des Pano¬ 
ramas,Jouffroy, Verdeau, Vivienne, Colbert, Choiseul, du Sau- 
mon, 1 ero-Dodat, Delorme , etc. In general the shops in them 
though small, are convenient for their holders, but are let at 
a very high rent. 

BAZAARS.—There are very few of these establishments now 
existing in Paris, three on the northern boulevards being the 
only ones of any note. The best of these is a large one on the 
boulevard Bonne Nouvelle, a description of which will be found 
under the head of the 3rd Arrondissement. 

COMMON SEW ERS, etc. —The Seine and the Bievre in the 
southern part of Paris, and the Seine and the rivulet ofMenil- 
montant in the northern part, were formerly the only recep¬ 
tacles tor rain-water, etc. When ditches were opened round 
the city-walls, these served as sewers, and some parts of them, 
now arched over, are still devoted to that purpose. About the 
year 1370, the grand egoiit from Menilmontant to Chaillot and 
several smaller ones were formed. The outlets of these sewers 
becoming gradually choked up, and not being covered, they 
became insufferable nuisances, and often generated contagious 
diseases by their exhalations. The evil had become so great in 
1671, that it was determined that several of the sewers should 
be vaulted, and at the same time was formed the egout de 
EHotel deslnvalides. In 1734 the lower part of the egout Mont¬ 
martre was vaulted over; in 1740 the grand egout was covered 
in; and in 1754, three new sewers were built. Those which 
surround the Palais Royal were opened when that edifice was 
built, and empty themselves into that of the Place du Carrousel. 
Ever since 1829 great additions have been annually made to the 
sewers of Paris. The sewers at present occupy in extent a space 
of 126,310 metres; or about 30 leagues, constructed at an ex¬ 
pense of 25 millions of francs. They are now strongly cased 
and vaulted in masonry. In 1846 upwards of 2,860 metres of 
new sewers were constructed. 

The gutters, that used to run in the middle of the streets, are 
now mostly placed by the sides of the trottoirs, and a general 
system of large and well-arched drains is to be found under 
every street of the quarters comprised between the rue St. Denis 

n 


INTRODUCTION. 


422 

and the Place Venddme. This improvement will be extended 
to the whole of Paris. Closely connected with the drainage of 
the town, is the system adopted for removing the ordure and 
rubbish of each individual house. For this purpose the esta¬ 
blishment of Monlfaucon has been maintained. (See Index.) 
The pestilential effect produced by this place upon the atmo¬ 
sphere of that part of Paris has led, of late, to the experiment 
of absorbing wells. These, where they have been tried, at the 
Barriere du Combat and elsewhere, have succeeded, and will, 
it is supposed, he applied to remedy existing evils. 

QUAYS.—The hanks of the Seine are skirled with spacious 
quays, which, although distinguished by different names, form 
in reality only two lines of road. The most ancient, the Quai 
des Augustins, dales from 1312, and the Quai de la Megisserie, 
from 13G9. Under Louis XIII. and XIV. some progress was 
made in the construction of quays, particularly in the lie de la 
Cite, and the lie St. Louis. Napoleon particularly directed his 
attention to the improvement of Paris by the construction and 
repair of quays, and his plans have been completed. The hanks 
of the Seine now display a line of quays unequalled by any city 
in Europe. Their total length is nearly ll miles. They form 
large terraces, on which a roadway runs, with a trottoir gene¬ 
rally on each side, and most of them are planted with trees, 
lighted by gas and furnished at intervals with benches. Next 
to the boulevards and public gardens, they afford the most 
agreeable promenades of Paris. The necessity of these stone 
embankments will he perceived, when the height to which the 
river sometimes rises is taken into account; they often prevent 
the lower parts of the capital from being overllowed. Abreu- 
voirs, or watering-places for horses, are visible in many parts. 

BRIDGES.—The bridges at Paris, owing to the elevation of 
the quays above the river, have very little ascent, and are 
therefore convenient; they are, however, in general, far infe¬ 
rior to the bridges of Rome or Florence, and are not to he 
compared with the stupendous masses of Waterloo, Blackfriars, 
London, or Westminster. Their number over the Seine, be¬ 
tween the harriers of Paris, is at present 27; of which 7 are 
suspension bridges, 3 are formed of iron and stone, 1 of wood, 
and the rest of stone altogether. For descriptions of them the 
reader is referred to the Arrondissements. 

CANALS.—The canals on the north of Paris are all branches 
of one and the same undertaking for bringing the waters of the 
river Ourcq to the capital. Proposals to this effect were made 
in 1799, but the authorisation of Government was not granted 
till 1802. The works were carried on till 1814, when they were 
suspended; in 1818 the municipality of Paris were empowered 


PHYSICAL STATISTICS. 423 

to borrow 7,000,000 fr. for their completion, and they were soon 
so tar advanced as to he useful for the purposes intended. Since 
1830 they have been completely finished. The objects for 
which this canal has been opened are to convey to a spacious 
basin water for the supply of the inhabitants and manufactories 
of the capital, and the fountains which embellish it ; and to 
form on lhe north of the city a canal composed of two navigable 
branches, the one extending from the Seine at St. Denis to the 
basin, and the other from the basin to the Seine at the Arsenal. 
The various branches or ramifications of this canal are known 
by the names of the Canal de VOurcq, Bassin de la Villette 
Canal St. Martin, Gave de VArsenal, and Canal St. Denis. 

The Canal de FOurcq receives the water of the Ourcq beyond 
the mill of Mareuil, about 10 leagues from Paris, and, after 
collecting diverse streams, falls into the Bassin de la Villette. 
The quantity of water furnished by this canal upon an average 
of the whole year is 13,500 superficial inches, yielding 260,820 
cubic metres every 24 hours, for the purposes of the navi¬ 
gation, and the lockage on the two canals St. Denis and St. 
Martin, and also for the supply to the public fountains, mar¬ 
kets, and the houses of the capital. The declivity is 92 feet 9 
inches; and the water falls at the rate of 1 foot in a minute. 
Its total length is 24 leagues ; between Mareuil and Lizy its 
breadth is 31 feet; but from the latter place to the Bassin de 
la Villette it is only 11 feet wide. Its cost was 25,000,000 fr. 

The Bassin de la Villette, situated outside the Barriere de 
Pantin, was begun in 1806, and finished in 1809. It forms a 
parallelogram of 740 yards by 77, and receives the waters of the 
Canal de I’Ourcq at the northern extremity. Its axis is the same 
as that of an elegant rotunda, which forms barracks for gen¬ 
darmes, and its banks are planted with 4 rows of trees. At the 
angles of the southern extremity are openings, which supply 
water to the Aqueduc de Ceinture and the Canal St. Martin. 

The Aqueduc de Ceinture extends from the western angle of 
the basin as far as Monceaux, encircling Paris on the north. 
Its length is 10,300 yards. This aqueduct throws out 5 branches. 
The first supplies the Chateau d’Eau, boulevard St. Martin, the 
Place Boyale, and the Marche des Innocents; the second, the 
faubourgs Montmartre and Poissonniere, with the Palais Royal; 
the third, theChaussee d’Antin, the quarlier desCapucines, and 
the Marche St. Honore; the fourth, the Champs Elysees, the 
Tuileries, the Invalides, and the Ecole Militaire. The fifth sup¬ 
plies the fountains on the Place de la Concorde. 

The Canal St. Martin is 3,467 yards in length, by 21 feel in 
width, and communicates between the eastern angle of the 
basin and the Gare de l’Arsenal. The sides are skirled with 


INTRODUCTION. 


124 

towing-paths and trees. It passes between the boulevard and 
the Hospital St. Louis, and falls into the gare in the Place de la 
Bastille. It cost more than 14,200,000 fr. 

The Gare de VArsenal, in part formed of the moat of the 
Bastille, is 651 yards in length, by 64 in breadth. It can receive 
upwards of 80 barges, leaving the middle clear for a passage. 
A bridge has been erected towards the river, over the sluice 
where the waters of the gare fall into the Seine. 

The Canal St. Denis begins near St. Denis, at the spot w here 
the small river Rouillon empties itself into the Seine, and ter¬ 
minates at the Canal de l’Ourcq in a small semicircular sheet of 
water, 900 yards beyond the Bassin de la Villette. After en¬ 
circling the town on the Paris side, it extends in a straight line 
to the Canal de l’Ourcq. Its length is 7,333 yards, and in its 
course are 12 sluices and 2 bridges. It cost eight millions. 

AQUEDUCTS.— Aqueduc d’Arcueil. —Over a valley to the south 
of Paris, formed by the course of the Bievre, the Romans 
erected an aqueduct for the conveyance of water to the Palais 
des Thermes, from Rongis, at 4 leagues distance; the interme¬ 
diate village of Arcueil most probably derived its name from 
the arches which supported the aqueduct. Part of this ancient 
construction, consisting of two arches substantially built, still 
exists, near the modern aqueduct at Arcueil. The scarcity of 
water in the southern part of Paris was more particularly felt 
after Marie de Medicis built the Palace of the Luxembourg, and 
the population increased in that quarter. A project formed by 
Henry IV. of re-establishing the Roman aqueduct, to convey 
the waters of Rongis to Paris, was therefore renewed. On the 
17th of July, 1613, Louis XIII. and the queen regent, his mo¬ 
ther, in great pomp, laid the first stone of the aqueduct, which 
was built after the designs of Desbrosses, and finished in 1624. 
This aqueduct, which extends across the valley of Arcueil upon 
25 arches, 72 feet in height by 1,200 in length, presents a mag¬ 
nificent mass of building. Its total length, from Arcueil to the 
Chilean d’Eau, near the Observatory, is 18,200 yards. Nine 
arches are open for the passage of the river, but it generally 
flows through two in the centre. Within the aqueduct on each 
side is a parapet which forms a walk. On the outside along the 
whole line are openings, called regards . This aqueduct was 
thoroughly repaired in 1777 ; and fresh sums of money have 
lately been devoted to the same purpose by the City of Paris. 
It supplies 36,000 hogsheads daily. Strangers are readily admit¬ 
ted to see the interior by applying to the keeper at Arcueil. 

Aqueduc de Belleville—A considerable quantity of water is 
supplied to Paris lrom a hill abounding in springs, situated at 
a short distance to the north, and upon which the village of 


PHYSICAL STATISTICS. 425 

Belleville lias been built. The aqueduct by which it is con¬ 
veyed is the most ancient in the vicinity, having been built in 
the reign of Philip Augustus. It was repaired in 1457, and 
again in 1602 by order of Henry IV. The first reservoir is si¬ 
tuated upon the most elevated point of the village of Belleville. 
It consists of a substantial free-stone building, 50 feet in cir¬ 
cumference, but not lofty, on account of the height of the hill 
and the depth of the springs, and is covered with a dome, sur¬ 
mounted by an open lantern. Two staircases lead down to the 
bottom ol the reservoir and the entrance of the aqueduct. In 
the centre is a basin emptying itself into the aqueduct. At the 
Barriere de Menilrnontant is another reservoir, from whence 
the water is distributed to the adjoining parts of Paris. Its daily 
supply is 432 hogsheads. 

Aqueduc de St. Gervais or de Romainville. —By this aqueduct 
the water from the heights ol Romainville, Bruyeres, and 
Menilrnontant flows into a reservoir in the village of Pre 
St. Gervais, from whence it is conveyed to Paris by pipes. The 
date of its erection is unknown, but it existed in the time of 
St. Louis. It was repaired at the same time with the aqueduct 
of Belleville, by order of Henry IV. The reservoir was rebuilt 
in the time of Louis XIV. Supply, 648 hogsheads daily. 

Pipes are also laid across the plain of St. Denis from the Seine, 
for the supply of Batignolles and Montmartre with water. 

FOUNTAINS.—From the nature of the soil on which Paris is 
built, consisting of rocky strata to an immense depth, the town 
is almost without springs, and therefore derives the water con¬ 
sumed by its inhabitants either from the Seine or from distant 
sources brought by means of aqueducts. Hence has arisen the 
necessity of erecting fountains in different parts of the town 
for the accommodation of the inhabitants. At the beginning of 
the 15th century there were only 12 public fountains, and a 
century later, under Francis I., there were not more than 16, 
supplying only 1 inch of water; though the population at that 
time amounted to 300,000 inhabitants. Under Henry IV. and 
Louis XIII., the town began to be better supplied; the pump 
of the Samaritaine at the Pont Neuf was erected, and the 
aqueduct of Arcueil rebuilt; 14 new fountains were made, but 
the supply was still greatly inadequate. Under Louis XIV. and 
Louis XV., when the population was 600,000, the pumps at the 
Pont Neul and the Pont Notre Dame were the principal sources 
of supply of water to the various fountains, and furnished, ac¬ 
cording to the stale of the river and their condition, from 60 
to 100 inches daily. (1) The establishment of the Pompe d feu at 

(l) The French engineers calculate that the quantity of water that 


INTRODUCTION. 


m 

Ghaillot, and afterwards of that at Gros Caillou, brought some 
remedy to this state of things, by supplying 320 additional 
inches; bpt it was only when that undertaking had passed into 
the hands of the government, that the necessitous classes began 
to profit by a better distribution of drinkable water. The Canal 
de l’Ourcq completed the supply of the capital, which, since 
fountains are now erected in all parts of Paris, may he said to 
be good; but still the convenience of a fountain to each house 
does not commonly exist, although the practice of laying down 
pipes from the main conduits to each residence is now becom¬ 
ing frequent. (1) The purchase of water is an ordinary article 
of domestic expense. The municipality are devoting large sums 
every year to increasing the supply of this principal necessary 
of health and life, and new fountains or pipes are being opened 
almost every day. The public fountains form very ornamental 
objects in the streets of Paris, and descriptions of all that are 
worthy of remark will be found under the head of each arron- 
dissemenl. The tolal length of water-pipes laid down is 212,700 
metres, or 129 miles, 6 furlongs. The bornes-fontaines (in the 
nature of water-plugs) are turned daily by persons appointed 
for that purpose, in order to freshen and purify the streets. 
The City distributes water to more than 100 public fountains, 
1,799 homes fontaines, and to 4,288 private houses. (2) 

RESERVOIRS.—There are three great reservoirs in Paris, for 
receiving and distributing water from the Bassin de la Yillette, 
and the Artesian Well at Grenelle. They are situated, 9, rue 
Racine, 83, rue Vaugirard, and rue de la Vieille Estrapade. A 
fourth is in course of construction near Montmartre, and a fifth 
in the rue Cassini. 

BATHS, etc.— The use of baths was introduced into Gaul by 
the Romans, and spread rapidly among the inhabitants, parti¬ 
cularly at Paris. In the middle ages public baths, called etuvcs, 
were so common in Paris, that six streets or alleys derive their 
names from them. These establishments maintained their re¬ 
putation for a long period, and their proprietors, called bar- 
biers-etuvistes, formed a corporate body. Under Louis XIII. 

will pass through an inch conduit (un pouce de fontainier) in 24 hours 
is 19 cubic metres, or 19,000 litres. 

(1) The sum received by the City of Paris in 1846 for water thus sup¬ 
plied was 1,020,992 fr. It charges 90 c. per cubic metre. It is calculated 
that upwards of 4 millions of francs are annually paid by the inhabit¬ 
ants of Paris for water to the carriers, whose charge is about 5 fr. per 
cubic metre. From official accounts, the quantity of water daily used 
amounts to 103,296 metres. 

(2) Large reservoirs, supplied by steam-engines from the Seine have 
been lately formed at Belleville and Passy. 


PHYSICAL STATISTICS. 457 

and Louis XIV., they became places of pleasure and debauchery 
to which cause may be attributed their decline. At present the 
baths in Paris are numerous, and afford every kind of accom¬ 
modation at a very low charge. The bathing-establishments 
are formed of ranges of small rooms, furnished with every ne¬ 
cessary appendage. Mineral, sulphur, and vapour baths are 
also frequent in Paris, and very reasonable. The bains-ambu- 
lants, or portable baths, are a great accommodation to invalids, 
and the public in general. For a list of the principal establish¬ 
ments, see Directory. There are also Ecoles de Natation, or 
swimming-schools, and baths of every kind, to be found in 
floating establishments on the Seine every summer. Some of 
the swimming-schools are very large, and all are well regu¬ 
lated. The enclosures, resting on barges, are covered in with 
canvas, and are fitted up with galleries, bathing-rooms, plung¬ 
ing-bridges, etc. Net or wood-work is placed at the bottom, 
which can be raised to the surface on occasion. Men are always 
in attendance to give instructions in swimming, and ropes and 
poles are in readiness either to aid pupils or prevent accidents. 
Their price generally is 12 sous, but there are baths, or swim¬ 
ming-places, on the river, for the lower order of people, at as 
low a price as 4 sous. There are also schools for females, which 
are well attended; and it may be observed that the Parisians 
know how to appreciate the avantages their river affords. 

CEMETERIES.—At a period more remote than the seventh 
century, the Parisians buried their dead in the Roman fashion, 
without the city walls, along the sides of the high roads. By 
degrees the priests granted permission for interments to take 
place in churches and the ground contiguous. The increase of 
the population gradually extending the bounds of the city, the 
cemeteries became inclosed within the walls. At length, in 
1790,’ the National Assembly passed a law expressly prohibiting 
interments within churches, and enjoining all towns and vil¬ 
lages to discontinue the use of their old burial-places, and form 
others at a distance. During the revolutionary tyranny which 
soon after ensued, men were buried without any ceremony, or 
memorial to mark the spot where they lay. In 1800, 1804, and 
1811, various decrees were issued for the regulation and im¬ 
provement of the cemeteries, and at the latter period they were 
constituted nearly as at present. 

The cemeteries of Paris are three in number, viz. the Cime- 
tiere du Pere Lachaise, for the eastern part of the metropolis; 
de Montmartre, for the northern; and de Mont Parnasse, for 
the southern. There is besides at Mont Parnasse a cemetery 
appropriated to the use of hospitals, and also to the interment 
of criminals. They are laid out in a picturesque style ; the mo- 


INTRODUCTION. 


m 

numents are often in good taste, and many of the inscriptions 
interesting. On Sundays and on All Souls’ Day, which is set a- 
part for the commemoration of the dead, whole families of the 
Parisians visit the graves of their relatives, and they are much 
resorted to. A notice of each cemetery will be found attached 
to that of the arrondissemenl nearest to which it lies. Any 
person or company may be entrusted with the erection and 
repairs of the tombs, etc., and the cost of such charges is of 
course various, according to ihe persons by whom they are 
performed. The interments take place with or without the 
performance of any religious ceremony, in what manner and 
by whom the friends of the deceased please. The tariffs will 
be found at each cemetery, where full information on all par¬ 
ticulars may be obtained. (1) 

The expenses of funerals, regulated by royal ordonnance, 
dated 25th June, 1832, are as follow :— 


9 lb 

Class. 

Pompes Funebres. Ceremonies Religieuses. Total. 

. . 5 fr. 10 fr. 15 fr. 

8th 


. . 32 

15 

47 

7 th 


. . 59 

20 

79 

Gib 


. . 105 

50 

155 

5th 


. . 298 

130 

428 

4th 


. . 536 50 c. 

207 

743 50 c. 

3rd 


. . 1172 

278 

1450 

2nd 


. . 2048 

480 

2528 

1st 


. . 3367 50 c. 

600 50 c. 

3968 50 C. (2) 


(1) In the cemeteries there are three kinds of graves : perpetual, tem¬ 
porary, and common ( fosses communes). Families wishing to purchase 
a burying-ground aperpetuile (forever)—which confers the privilege 
of selecting the cemetery, without regard to the quarter of Paris in 
which they are domiciled—will pay for l metre 268 fr., 2 metres 532 fr., 
3 metres 1,063 fr., 6 metres 3,184 fr., and for every additional ’metre 
1,000 fr. Up to seven years of age l metre is sufficient for a grave; above 
that 2 metres must be purchased. Two bodies cannot he buried in the 
same ground except the extent be 2 metres, and that there be a vault 
constructed in it. Ground for temporary graves is hired for 6 years or 
more, at the end of which they may be re-opened, unless the term be re¬ 
newed. In the fosses communes , 4 feet deep, the poor are gratuitously 
buried, in coffins placed close to but not upon each other. They are re¬ 
opened at the end of 5 years, lha t term being sufficient for the decomposi¬ 
tion of bodies in this clayey soil; but at the time the trenches are about 
to be re-opened the ground of each grave may be either hired or bought, 
provided it be not in the line of any road in contemplation. 

In cases of English persons dying in Paris, application should be 
made to the clerks of any of the places of English worship, who will 
generally undertake the management of the funeral. 

(2) This last is only an estimated sum, for no exact maximum sum can 
be set down, as there are no legal limits to funeral pomp. The central 





GENERAL NOTICE OF PARIS. 


129 


GENERAL NOTICE OF PARIS. 

The origin of Paris and of its founders is involved in great 
obscurity. According to historians worthy of credit, a wander¬ 
ing tribe obtained permission of the Senones, at a remote pe- 
liod, to settle upon the hanks of the Seine, near their territory. 
Upon the island now called la Cite they built huts, whicli 
served as a natural fortress to protect their flocks and effects 
when an attack from any of the neighbouring tribes was ap¬ 
prehended. To their stronghold they gave the name of Lute¬ 
tian), to themselves that of Parisii. (2) 

Upon the conquest of Gaul by Julius Caesar, before the Chris¬ 
tian era, his general, Labienus, found the Parisii one of the 
6+ tribes of the Gallic confederation, whose chief town was 
Lutetia, built on the island now called the Cite, and consisting 
of rude huts. Two bridges established communications with 
the opposite hanks of the Seine, which were covered with ex¬ 
tensive marshes or gloomy forests, and the inhabitants, who 
were remarkably fierce, supported themselves chiefly on the 
water by fishing. Under the dominion of the Romans, this tribe 
remained in the same state of insignificance as before; their 
progress in civilisation was slow, and even the worship of the 
Roman gods with difficulty superseded the human sacrifices of 
the Druids. Certain it is, that Isis was never worshipped here, 
as some writers imagined; and the assertion that Mars and 
Mercury had temples here is, to say the least, very problema¬ 
tical. Fragments of an altar of Jupiter were, however, disco¬ 
vered in 17ft under the choir of the cathedral of Notre Dame. 
The emperor Julian, between 358 and 3C0 after Christ, remo¬ 
delled the government of Gaul, gave stability to the Roman 
laws, and equalized the privileges of the various towns; it was 
thus Lutetia changed its name to Parisii, obtained political 
franchises, and the dignity of a city. The trade of Paris was in 
the hands of a trading company, called Nautse Parisiaci, which 
existed long after the fall of the Romans. During upwards of 

office of the Entreprise des Pompes Funebres is at 51 , rue de Miro- 
mesnil, open from 7 morning to 7 evening. There are besides branches 
at the Mairies of the 1 st, 2d, 5th, and lith arrondissements, where all 
inquiries respecting forms, expenses, etc., will be answered. 

(1) Lutetia, from louton-hesi, dwelling of the waters. Sequana, Seine > 
from seach, devious, and an, water, river; a derivate of avainn. 

(2) Parisii —the origin of this word is not ascertained. The most gene¬ 
rally received derivation is from the Celtic word bar or par, a frontier, 
or extremity. 


INTRODUCTION. 


130 

500 years of Roman domination, Paris was the residence of a 
prefect. The northern and southern banks of the river were 
covered with buildings. A palace was erected in the Cite for 
municipal purposes, and another on the south hank of the 
Seine, remains of which may still be seen. An arena was formed 
upon the declivity of the hill of St. Victor, and a cemetery near 
where the Place St. Michel now stands; an aqueduct was con¬ 
structed from Chaillot, remains of which were discovered in 
the last century in the Place Louis XVI. and the Palais Royal; 
and a second aqueduct, to convey the waters of Arcueil to the 
Palais des Thermes. Several of the emperors resided here whilst 
their armies were repelling the barbarians of the north. Con¬ 
stantine and Conslantius visited the capital of the Gauls; Julian 
passed three winters in it; Valenlinian issued several laws here, 
which are published in his code; and Gralian, his son, lost a 
battle under its walls, which cost him the empire. 

According to a legend of the monks of St. Denis, the gospel 
was first preached at Paris, about the year 250, by St. Denis, 
the Areopagite, who suffered martyrdom at Montmartre. We 
are ignorant where the first Christians held their assemblies; 
but as early as the reign of Valenlinian 1. a chapel dedicated 
to St. Stephen was erected on the spot where Jupiter was 
worshipped, and where the cathedral of Notre Dame now stands. 

In 400, hordes of barbarians from the north descended upon 
the Roman provinces, which they plundered and laid waste, and 
Gaul suffered greatly from their incursions. In 445, the Sicam- 
bres, of the league of the Franks, crossing the Rhine, made 
themselves masters of the cities situated on its banks, and, 
marching thence to Paris, stormed it. The Roman government, 
however, still lingered on in Gaul, in the last stage of existence, 
when Childeric, king of Tournay having died in 481, his son 
Clodovech, or Clovis, formed a league with a few other princes, 
and in 480 marched against the Roman general Siagrius, whom 
he completely routed ; and, extending his conquests by degrees, 
he made himself master of Paris, in 494 or 496. Here he married 
Clolilde, embraced Christianity, and built a church, which he 
dedicated to St. Peter and St. Paul, but which shortly after 
was placed under the invocation of Sle. Genevieve, who died 
in his reign. At this period the island was surrounded by walls 
with gates and towers. Childebert built the abbey of St. Ger¬ 
main des Pres and the church of St. Germain PAuxerrois. The 
walls built by Clovis subsisted till the time of Louis VI. This 
prince, continually exposed to the attacks of the feudal lords, 
his vassals, determined on protecting the faubourgs on the north 
and south by a wall, the necessity of which had been long before 
felt, in consequence of the repeated attacks of the Normans. 


GENERAL NOTICE OP PARIS. 4 34 

kmsS . 0f lhe lirst 01 ‘ Mer( >vingian dynasty, which 
aaed 256 years, the arts, laws, and literature, introduced by 
the Homans into Gain, fell into decay, and the civilisation of 
the I ansians retrograded. Few of the princes of the second or 
Carlovingian dynasty resided at Paris. Charlemagne afforded 
powerful protection to letters and the sciences, and did more 
ior the establishment of the monarchical authority than any of 
ins predecessors, but, under his feeble successors, Paris became 
the private patrimony of hereditary counts. In 845 the Nor- 
mans, attracted by the riches of the churches and convents, 
made a descent upon Paris, which they sacked and burned in 
8a i, and again besieged it in 885. In vain did the Parisians appeal 
oi succour to Charles le Cliauve. Their own courage, however 
seconded by the valour of Count Eudes, or Odo, compelled the 
enemy, at the end of two years, to raise the siege. Charles was 
men deposed, and the crown given to Eudes, in whose family 
it became hereditary in the person of Hugues Capet, elected 
ving in U87. In the tirst year of his reign Hugues Capet began 
the palace which now bears the name of Palais de Justice. The 
inhabitants commenced buildings in all directions; and so great 
was the increase ol the city that it was divided into four quar¬ 
tets, from whence came the term quartier, to express a divi¬ 
sion ot Paris. At that period, however, the city could not have 
been very large, as ten men sufficed to collect the taxes. The 
duties ot the northern gate, which was situated at the extre- 
lnity ot the rue St. Marlin, produced, under Louis le Gros, 
onljr 12 fr. a-year (GOO fr. present money). This monarch re¬ 
built the Louvre, which existed as early as the time of l)ago- 
bert. Bishop Maurice de Sully began the foundations of Notre 
Dame, the tirst stone of which was laid in 1163, by Pope 
Alexandre 111.; and the Templars erected a palace upon the 
spot where the Marche du Temple is situated. Under the early 
i eigns ot the third or aetual dynasty, many privileges were con¬ 
ferred upon the Parisians. A royal prevot was appointed to admi¬ 
nister justice in the king’s name, and a prevot des marchands 
to watch over the municipal interest. The schools of Paris be¬ 


came celebrated, and in the 14th century colleges were founded. 

The reign of Philip Augustus is remarkable for the edifices 
with which Paris was embellished. That monarch built several 
churches, and the tower of the Louvre; he caused some of 
the streets to be paved, and obliged the inhabitants to fortify 
the city with a wall and turrets. This enclosure began on the 
light bank, a little above the Pont des Arts, and, proceeding 
northward as far as the rue Grenier St. Lazare, terminated on 
the Quai des Ormes : on the left bank it commenced near the 
present site of the Palais de ITnstitut, and, after running south- 


4 32 INTRODUCTION. 

ward to the rue des Fosses SI. Jacques, took a northerly direc¬ 
tion, and terminated at theQuai de laTournelle. The river was 
barricaded by a heavy chain fastened to stakes, and supported 
by boats. Paris then formed three divisions—la Cite, in the 
centre; laVille, on the North; and l’Universite, on the south of 
the river. In 1250, Robert Sorbon founded his schools in the 
quartier still called de la Sorbonne, which was also named le 
pays latin. Under St. Louis many vexatious customs were 
abolished, a belter system of jurisprudence introduced, and 
many religious and commercial institutions established. A corps 
ol municipal troops was formed, and a night patrol organised. 
An hospital for the blind, and a school of surgery, were founded ; 
and, in order to render contracts more binding, a body of nota¬ 
ries was instituted. Philippe le Hardi adopted a project for the 
improvement of the streets and highways; and Philippe le Bel 
established several courts of justice, and formed a body of re¬ 
spectable magistrates. During the captivity of King John in Eng¬ 
land, Paris was agitated by the faction of the Maillotins, headed 
by Etienne Marcel, prevot des marchands, and instigated by 
Charles leMauvais. Marcel was however slain by his own par¬ 
tisans ; and the Dauphin, after quelling the revolt, punished 
the ringleaders of the faction. 

Under Charles V., the faubourgs being much extended and 
frequently in danger from the incursions of the English, new 
ditches and walls were begun in 1367, and completed in sixteen 
years. During this period the Bastille and the Palais des Tour- 
nelles were built, and the Louvre repaired and enlarged. Paris 
was then divided into 16 quartiers, and contained 1284 acres 
of ground. The prosperous reign of Charles V. was followed by 
the disastrous one of Charles VI., who came to the throne a 
minor in 1380. He was struck with insanity in 1302; the re¬ 
venues of the state were squandered in the struggle for power 
between the duke of Orleans and the duke of Bourgogne ; the 
factions of the Bourguignons and Armagnacs distracted' the 
country, and the English occupied Paris in 1421. During his 
reign, in 1384, the Pont St. Michel was built, and in 1414 the 
Pont Notre Dame. He died in 1422. Under Charles VII, the 
English were driven from Paris in 1436; and in this reign the 
Greek language was taught for the first time in the Univer¬ 
sity of Paris, which at that period contained 25,000 students 
Under him and succeeding monarchs it was desolated by fa¬ 
mine, the plague, and by wolves, to such a degree, that in 
1466 the malefactors of all countries were invited to Paris as a 
sanctuary, with a view of repeopling the capital. Notwithstand¬ 
ing the dreadful mortality, the population, under Louis XJ. 
amounted to 300,000 souls, and the space comprised within the 


GENERAL NOTICE OF PARIS. \ 33 

walls was 14i4 acre 8 . In 1470 printing was introduced, and 
the post-office established. In the reign of Francis 1., the patron 
literature and the fine arts, Paris assumed a new aspect. The 
old chateau of the Louvre, an assemblage of towers and heavy 
vva Is, was demolished, and a palace commenced on its site 
Several churehes were rebuilt, a royal college for gratuitous 
s ruction in the sciences anil learned languages was founded 
better communications opened between the different parts of 
the city, the fortifications enlarged and repaired, and the re¬ 
building of the Faubourg St. Germain, ruined during the pre¬ 
ceding wars, commenced. In 1533, the Hotel de Ville was begun. 

esides a number of streets which were rapidly built and oc¬ 
cupied, the Quai de la Tournelle was formed in 1552, the Place 

1 ?i 155 f 8, 4 l and the chateau aild garden of the Tuileries 
n 1563. About the same time the Arsenal was constructed. 
Under the reign of Henry II., the college of Ste. Barbe was 
endowed, a protestant church established in defiance of his 
persecutions, and the coins of the realm bore for the first time 
the effigy of the king. The wars of religion, and their disastrous 
consequences, among which the Massacre of St. Bartholomew 
was the most conspicuous, arrested for a while the progress of 
etters and the fine arts, until Henry IV., having restored peace 
to the kingdom, turned his attention to plans for promoting 
Ins subjects happiness and embellishing the capital. During his 
leign the Pont Neuf was finished, the hospital of St. Louis 
founded, the neighbourhood of the Arsenal improved • the 
Place Royale and its streets, the Place and the rue Dauphine 
and the neighbouring quays, were laid out; great additions 
were made to the palace of the Tuileries, and the splendid gal¬ 
lery which joins it to the Louvre was partly constructed. 

Under the reign of Louis XIII., several new streets were 
opened; the Palais Royal was begun by Richelieu, and the 
palace of the Luxembourg by Marie de Medicis; the Gours la 
Reine was planted; the aqueduct of Arcueil rebuilt; the quays 
and biidges of the lie St. Louis were constructed; magnificent 
hotels arose in the faubourg St. Germain; the college which 
afterwards assumed the name of Louis le Grand, the Academie 
Royale, and the Garden of Plants, were founded; statues of 
Henry IV. and Louis XIII. were erected; and such was the aug¬ 
mentation of the capital, that the Faubourg St. Honore became 
united with the villages of Roule and Ville-F£v6que, and the 
Faubourg St. Antoine with those of Popincourt and Reuilly. 

In the reign of Louis XI\., notwithstanding the long and dis¬ 
astrous wars of the Fronde, the projects of Henry IV. and 
Louis XIII. were completed. More than eighty new streets were 
opened, and most of the old ones improved and embellished. 

12 


434 INTRODUCTION. 

The Place Vendomeand Place des Victoires were formed. Thir¬ 
ty-three churches were erected, many of Ihe quays were faced 
with stone, and a new one formed; and, for the greater conve¬ 
nience of the courts of justice, the building of the Grand Ch&telet 
was erected. The magnificent Hotel des Invalides, a foundling 
hospital, the Observatory, the beautiful colonnade of the 
Louvre, the Pont Royal, which forms a communication between 
the Tuileries and the Faubourg St. Germain, and the planting 
of the Champs Elysees, were among the embellishments of Paris 
in the reign of Louis XIV. The palace of the Tuileries was en¬ 
larged, and the garden laid out on its present plan. The college 
Mazarin, now the Palais de l’lnstitut, was founded, as also the 
manufactory of the Gobelins. The old city gates were super¬ 
seded by triumphal arches, of which those of St. Denis and 
St. Martin remain; and the boulevards, which they ornament, 
arranged in an uninterrupted suite of promenades, contributing 
equally to the health and beauty of the capital. In this and 
the preceding reign, the ancient fosses (moats) were filled up, 
the situation of which is indicated by the streets that still bear 
the name of rue des Fosses Montmartre, etc. 

Louis XV. was not less anxious to embellish the metropolis, 
which, at his accession to the throne, occupied a space of 3919 
acres. The Faubourgs St. Germain and St. Honore were deco¬ 
rated with sumptuous hotels; the Palais Bourbon was erected; 
the Ecole Militaire and the Ecole de Medecine were founded, 
and the new church of Ste. Genevieve arose on a majestic 
plan. The Place Louis XV. and its colonnades were begun, and 
the Champs Elysees replanted. The manufactory of porcelain 
at Sevres was established, and boulevards formed on the south 
of Paris. Several fountains were erected, among them that of 
the rue de Grenelle, by Bouchardon. Another foundling hos¬ 
pital was established, the Ecole Militaire, the Hotel des Mon- 
naies, the College de France, the facades of St. Sulpice and 
St. Eustaehe were built, and the Garden of Plants was enlarged. 

Louis XVI., desirous of completing the embellishments be¬ 
gun by his predecessors, continued the church of Ste. Genevieve, 
commenced that of the Madeleine, and built St. Philippe du 
Roule, and several others. He also repaired the Palais de Jus¬ 
tice, and founded or enlarged several charitable institutions. 
The boulevards to the south were adorned with houses and 
pleasure grounds, and in the northern faubourgs, habitations, 
displaying an elegant and varied taste, were erected. The French 
theatre, the French, Italian, and Comic opera-houses, and other 
theatres, arose in such quick succession, that they seemed pro¬ 
duced as if by magic. The old markets were enlarged, and new 
ones ormed. Steam-engines were established on Ihe hanks of 


GENERAL NOTICE OF PARIS. J35 

the Seine, to accelerate the distribution of water to different 
quarters of the city; and the Pont Louis XVI. formed a com¬ 
munication between the Faubourg St. Horiore and that of St. 
Germain. To arrest the progress of smuggling, the farmers- 
general of the taxes obtained of Louis XVI., in 1783, authority 
to enclose Paris with a lofty wall. The new boulevards and 
the villages of Chaillot, le Roule, and Monceaux, were enclosed 
within the limits of Paris; Montmartre would also have been 
enclosed within the walls, but, upon the warm remonstrances 
of the abbess of the convent in that village, the project was 
abandoned. By this extension of the bounds of the city, the 
ground upon which the capital stands was augmented to 9,858 
acres. The walls were divided by GO gales, called barricres, 
where the octroi or entrance-duties were received. These walls 
form the present inclosure of the capital. The galleries of the 
Palais Royal, furnished with shops of every kind, gave the 
Parisians an idea of the bazaars of Egypt and Persia; and the 
Mont de Piete was instituted in the Marais, to which commis¬ 
sioners in the different quarters of the city were attached. 

Upon the breaking out of the Revolution, many monuments 
of the middle ages were demolished, and the tine arts were 
threatened with destruction. But under the Directory, the 
museum of the Louvre was opened, and during the consular 
and imperial government, Paris assumed more than its former 
splendour. Grand projects of public utility were adopted, and 
many were executed with unexampled celerity. The Place du 
Carrousel was cleared of the unsightly buildings which stood 
in front of the palace; the Louvre was completed; the northern 
gallery connecting the two palaces was begun; the garden of 
the Tuileries was embellished; the magnificent rue de Rivoli was 
built; the rue Casliglione, connecting the latter with the Place 
Venddme, ruede laPaix, Boulevard, and Chaussee d’Antin, was 
designed and executed; a new and spacious market was formed 
on the site of the convent des Jacobins, near the rue St. Honore; 
another near the abbey of St. Martin des Champs, and a third 
near St. Germain des Pres; three handsome bridges were built; 
and new quays were formed on each bank of the river. The 
Canal de l’Ourcq was opened, and, in the basin made at the 
barriere de la Villette, a junction was effected between it and 
the Canals of St. Denis and St. Marlin, while an ample supply 
of water w as thus afforded to the capital. The Place de la Bas¬ 
tille, intersected by the latter canal, was begun, and near it a> 
vast granary of reserve was constructed. The Bank of France 
w r as established in the Hotel de Toulouse, and a magnificent 
Bourse or Exchange was, begun. Fifteen new fountains were 
erected in different parts of the city, and several wide streets 





INTRODUCTION. 

and spacious markets were opened. The palace and garden of 
Tnn, emb ^ Urg were improved and enlarged, and the column 
ot the Place Venddme was erected. Three great cemeteries were 
hxed wdhout the barriers; and five public slaughter-houses 
cat ed abattoirs, were constructed at the extremities of the 
faubourg. The churches devastated during the Revolution were 
repaired and embellished. More than 4,000,000 1. sterling were 
expended on these works and embellishments in 12 years 
Louis XVIII on being restored to the throne of his ancestors, 
continued with activity the improvements and embellishments 
ot the capital. The new quarters of the town received great 
extension; the canals were completed; the Chamber of Depu¬ 
ties, three new bridges, and several barriers, were constructed • 
sta ues of the kings of France were erected in different places- 
a chapel was built in the Temple; another in the rue d’Aniou- 
and a third on the site of the French Opera House, where the 
Duke de Berry was assassinated. (1) Several markets and hos¬ 
pitals were finished or enlarged, and the works at the Entrepot 
des Vins and the Grenier de Reserve were resumed. The 
lighting and cleanliness of the streets were much improved 
and immense sums of money expended on all parts of the city! 

Lnder Charles X. the architectural alterations of Paris were 
chiefly of an ecclesiastical character. The church of St. Germain 
i es Pres was restored ; the Madeleine progressed; at Gros Caillou 
the church of St. Pierre was erected; and other new churches 
rose from their foundations. Three new bridges were built- 
many of the Passages that now embellish Paris were begun’ 
and the suburbs of the city continued to increase rapidly. f2) ’ 
Since the revolution of 1830, the embellishment of the capi- 
a has received a new impulse. The garden and palace of the 
Tuilenes have been much altered; some of the quays have been 
widened, those on the north planted, and several new bridges 
built. A great number of handsome new streets have been open- 

d) The last-mentioned chapel has since been thrown down and its 
site occupied by an elegant public fountain. 

(2) It may he interesting to find in a tabular form the area of Paris 
m hectares at different periods of its existence P 
Under Julius Caesar. . . 


Julian. 

Philip Augustus. 
Charles VI. . 
Henry III. 

Louis XIII. . 
Louis XIV. . 
Louis XV. 

Louis XVI. . 
Louis Philippe 


A.D. 


56 

371 

1211 

1383 

1581 

1634 

1686 

1717 

1788 

1843 


Hectares. 
1,528 
3,878 
25,285 
43,920 
48,360 
56,780 
110,370 
133,712 
337,043 
345,000 









GENERAL NOTICE OF PARIS. 137 

ed. The Hotel de Ville has been quadrupled in size. The Ma¬ 
deleine, the churches of Notre Dame de Lorette, St. Vincent de 
Paule, and St. Denis, have been finished; the Place de la Con¬ 
corde has been completely remodelled and terminated, and the 
Obelisk of Luxor has been reared in its centre; the Triumphal 
Arch at the top of the Champs Elysees has been completed, as 
well as the magnificent palaces of the Quai d’Orsay and of the 
Fine Arts. Most of the public edifices of Paris that stood in 
need of repair have been attended to, and many restorations 
of the monuments of the middle ages are in progress. Vast 
works have been undertaken for the drainage of the streets; 
gas is generally used throughout the town; and health and com¬ 
fort seem to be more consulted by the inhabitants in the im¬ 
proved construction of private edifices which are every where 
arising. Works of great importance are in progress, and more 
may be expected every year; the Government leads the way in 
this march of improvement, and what is undertaken by public 
authority is now not only begun, but quickly executed. 

PALACES. (1)—The kings of France have changed the place 
of their central residence at almost each of the grand distinctive 
epochs of the national history. On the cessation of the Roman 
sway in Gaul, and on the entry of the Franks, the Palais des 
Thermes was in all probability the residence of the chief magis¬ 
trate of the country. While the Normans were pursuing their 
ravages along the banks of the Seine, the king of France kept 
within the walls of his palace in the island. Of these two early 
residences of the monarchs of the country hardly any thing 
remains to indicate their size or magnificence. Of the first a 
Hall of Baths alone exists; but of the second, the Souricieres of 
the Palais de Justice, and, still more, the Sainte Chapelle, may 
serve to give an idea of the splendour that prevailed in its con¬ 
struction. From the time of St. Louis, Vincennes, the Bastille, 
and the Old Louvre became successively the residences of the 
sovereign. The two latter have entirely disappeared; the for¬ 
mer, though greatly mutilated, still retains some of its feudal 
terrors as well as magnificence. The new Louvre, or at least 
the western part of it, may be considered as the oldest of the 
Parisian palaces still used as royal residences. As to its exterior, 
this is superior in some respects even to Versailles; and is one 
of the finest buildings that exists on tins side of the Alps. The 
Tuileries, or rather the central part of that edifice, comes ne*t 
in order of antiquity; and then the eastern part of the Long 
Gallery that connects Ibis palace with that ofthe Louvre. Without 
any peculiar architectural merit or beauty, and witli very little 

(I) The reader is referred for the description of all the edifices in this 
chapter to the Arrondissements in which they stand. 


438 INTRODUCTION. 

decoration, the 1 uileries is nevertheless exceedingly imposing, 
merely from the extent of ils facade, notwithstanding the irre¬ 
gularity of its ouline. It has succeeded to the honours of two 
younger edifices, Versailles, and the Palais Royal, by being 
appaiently fixed on as the definitive residence of the king, for 
which, by its central position, it is so well suited; and in histo¬ 
rical associations it rivals, while in scenes of slaughter and 
mournful recollections it surpasses, the great monument of the age 
of Louis XIV., Versailles. The palace of the Luxembourg, though 
no longer the residence of royally, is worthy of being so, and is 
the best specimen extant of the reign of Lous XIII. Next to 
this comes the Palais Royal, which has replaced an edifice of 
nearly the same date as the Luxembourg ; and the Palais Bour¬ 
bon, now appropriated in part to the Chamber of Deputies; both 
edifices have a strong claim upon the attention of the stranger, 
having been long the respective residences of the families of 
rleans and Conde. To close the list of Parisian palaces, the 
Palms de V Ely see Bourbon must not be omitted, the smallest, 
but by no means the least interesting, of the royal mansions, 
it to this list of royal residences be added that of the chateaux 
belonging to the crown in the immediate neighbourhood of 
I aris, as they existed previously to the Revolution of 1789 Ver¬ 
sailles, Les Trianons, St. Germain, Compicgne, Fontainebleau 
Meudon, and St. Cloud, the magnificence of the ancient court of 
rranee will in some degree be understood. 

CHURCHES. Of these St. Germain des Pres is the most va¬ 
luable relic of the Romanesque style of architecture now re¬ 
maining in Paris. Of the Early Pointed style Notre Dame is the 
gieat type; and both from its size and numerous historical 
recollections, the cathedral church of Paris takes the lead of 
all others. (1) There are hardly any specimens of the earlv 
flamboyant style remaining among the churches of the metro¬ 
polis : St. Severin and St. Germain TAuxerrois belong to ils 
middle period (1400-1500); St. Gervais and St. Merri, with 
the tower of St. Jacques de la Boucherie, (2) to its latter period 
(1500—1550J. The style of the Renaissance des Arts has a most 
magnificent and perfect illustration in St. Eustache, and a curious 
one in St. Etienne du Mont. Of the churches built in the Ita¬ 
lian or Palladian style, the earliest is St. Paul et St. Louis 
which at the same time is one of the most beautiful edifices of 
the reign of Louis XIII. The age of Louis XIV. has its ecclesias¬ 
tical architecture represented by the church and dome of the 

(1) Other ecclesiastical buildings of the same style still exist in fine 
preservation; the principal of which are the Sainte Chapelleand the 
church and refectory of the Abbey of St. Marlin des Champs. 

(2) Only the tower remains. 




GENERAL NOTICE OF PARIS. >| 39 

Val de Grdce, and by the churches and dome of the Invalides 
the latter being of its kind the chef-d’oeuvre of that magnificent 
epoch. The church of St. Sulpice is the only large specimen of 
the style of sacred architecture which prevailed in the rei<m of 
Louis XV. The Pantheon may be quoted as a favourable example 
of the skill of French architects in the reign of Louis XVI. 
This edifice by its associations points rather to the times of the 
Revolution and the Republic. The era of the empire produced 
the designs for the Madeleine; the honour of finishing it belongs 
in some slight degree to the Restoration, but more especially 
to the present government. It is a splendid classic pile, and 
may rival even Notre Dame in calling forth the admiration of 
the architect. With respect to the accessory decorations of 
churches, as pictures, sacred utensils, furniture, etc., the splen¬ 
did paintings of the dome of the Invalides, the picturesand altars 
of Notre Dame and St. Etienne du Mont, with the pictures of 
Ste. Marguerite and St. Nicolas des Champs, are particularly 
worthy of notice. The interiors of the Madeleine and Notre 
Dame de Lorette are the best specimens of the decorative taste 
of the present day. The Parisian churches are remarkably poor 
in monuments and sculpture, a circumstance attributable in a 
great measure to the Revolution : with the exception of the 
cathedral of Notre Dam,e, the churches of the Sorbonne, St.Eus- 
tache, St. Gervais, and St. Sulpice, they contain hardly any¬ 
thing of that kind worthy of remark. 

The churches of St. Roch, St. Eustache, and Notre Dame de 
Lorette are celebrated for their music, and on high festivals are 
so crowded that there is much difficulty in obtaining admission. 
Notre Dame, St. Sulpice, and St. Etienne du Mont, are also 
much frequented. All the Catholic places of worship in Paris 
are open from an early hour in the morning till 5 or 6 o’clock 
in the evening of every day; on Sundays and festivals, persons 
using chairs pay for them, generally at the rale of 2 sous a chair. 
Round the door-way of each church are generally congregated 
indigent women, and other necessitous persons, upon whom 
visitors may well hestow a few sous. It may be added that the 
behaviour of the Parisian congregations is highly decorous, and 
that the offices of the Catholic church are performed with the 
greatest solemnity by the highly respectable body of the metro¬ 
politan clergy. The same observation is equally applicable to 
the churches of other religious denominations. 

PUBLIC BUILDINGS.—The localities of nearly all the public 
offices have already been indicated in the preceding chapters. 
The Hotels of the Ministers are in general splendid residences, 
and contain all the offices, etc., connected with the functions of 
each ministerial department. The Hotel of the Minister of 


'• W INTRODUCTION. 

Finance is the largest, and is situated the nearest to the Tuile- 
ries; the others are mostly in the Faubourg St. Germain, or in 
the Place Venddme, and that of Foreign Affairs on the Boule¬ 
vard des Capucines. Soldiers mount guard at each. 

Of the residences of the Foreign Ministers , the largest and 
most sumptuous is that of the British Ambassador. 

The finest of the municipal buildings of Paris is the Hotel de 
Ville, where the Prefect of the department resides, and the se¬ 
veral offices dependent upon him are located, councils held, 
and public meetings for various purposes summoned. It is the 
centre ot the municipal jurisdiction of the departments, in the 
same way as the Prefecture of Police combines the offices con¬ 
nected with the civic branch of the public force. 

The Palais de Justice unites within its precincts the supreme 
civil jurisdiction of the kingdom, the Cour de Cassation , the 
Cour Royale, the Tribunal de Premiere Instance, and the 
Tribunal de Police Municipale. The Tribunal of Commerce is 
placed at the Exchange. The despatch of public business is 
greatly tacilitated by this concentration of the legal business of 
the district and of the country. The chambers of the Parisian 
barristers are not generally in the vicinity of the courts, and 
legal societies, as the Temple, etc., in London, do not exist in 
Paris; formerly, however, in the days of the ancient parlements 
of France before the Bevolution, the body was less scattered, 
the hotel of the Palais de Justice, the lie St. Louis, and the 
quartier du Marais, being considered the legal quarters. Even 
now some of the barristers and judges reside in the vicinity of 
the Palais de Justice, but still there is no assigned place of 
abode for them as a professional body. The courts are in general 
commodious, though unequal to accommodate the numerous 
auditories which sometimes throng to them. Great improve¬ 
ments are in course of being effected in the Palais de Justice. 

Of the other public offices, such as the Mint, or Hotel des 
Monnaies, the Record-office, or Hotel des Archives, the Royal 
Printing-Office, etc., it may be observed that they are in ge¬ 
neral well adapted to their intended purposes, but, not being 
central, cause much inconvenience, particularly the two last, 
which are in a remote part of the town, far from the great 
movement of business. This remark is equally true as regards 
the principal commercial buildings of Paris. The Exchange 
the Bank, and the Post-office, although convenient to each other* 
are far from the river, and from the large warehouses and 
stores. The Depots of the Custom-house are at a distance from 
the centre ot the town; and the Halle aux Yins, with the Flour 
Depot, are at one of its extremities. These inconveniencies are 
owing to the great value of land and the highness of rent in the 



GENERAL NOTICE OF PARIS. \b\ 

best quarters. Most of the principal bankers are established in 
the vicinity of the Exchange, hut the bulkier and wholesale 
branches of trade are not well accommodated in the interior 
of the town. The markets of Paris can boast hut little external 
decoration; they are well placed round the Halles , but the 
district markets in the various quarters of the town are superior 
to them both in construction and cleanliness. Of the commercial 
buildings, the Exchange is the most remarkable, and best 
worthy of attention; while the Halle aux Vins and the Grenier 
de Re'serve are the largest and most important of the markets. 

The edifices connected with the literature and science of the 
country and the metropolis are mostly on the southern side of 
the river, situated within, or grouped around, the limits of the 
ancient University. The Observatory is almost at the extreme 
point of Paris, to the south; and round the Pantheon, besides 
the numerous religious houses which still remain, are, towards 
the south and east, the two British colleges; to the north and 
west, the buildings of the old University, now occupied by the 
Ecole Poly techniq ue, and some of the Royal Colleges. The 
Sorbonne is placed a little lower down, between the rues St. 
Jacques and La Harpe, and is in the immediate neighbourhood 
of the Ecole de Medecine, with its dependencies. The University 
formerly presented an extended front to the river; now the 
corps d’elite of the science and literature of the country, united 
in the Inslitut, holds its meetings on the spot where the ancient 
Collegedes QuatreNationssiood . Of the scholastic establishments 
one of the most prominent on many accounts is the Sorbonne; 
the edifices of the other colleges are interesting more from the 
recollections associated with them than from what they actually 
are. The great establishment of the Jardindes Plantes no longer 
lies beyond the noise and traffic of the town; late additions to 
its galleries effected by a government grant in 1835-36 have 
given it an architectural interest which previously it had no 
claim to. Almost the only great literary establishment on the 
northern side of the river is the Bibliotheque duRoi, rue Riche¬ 
lieu. The buildings in which this invaluable and immense col¬ 
lection is kept are by no means worthy of it; and it may also 
be observed, that greater attention seems to have been paid to 
amassing large collections of books, than to the edification or 
convenience of the public by a proper arrangement and classifi¬ 
cation in catalogues. This, however, is in part attributable to the 
sudden increase of most of the public libraries, by deposits of 
books from the various literary bodies at the time of the Revo¬ 
lution of 1793, and the consequent confusion attendant on the 
different claims for restitution, which are not yet even entirely 
satisfied. These literary edifices, and the relics of the once 


* INTRODUCTION. 

powerful University of Paris, with its 30 colleges, most of 
which are still traceable, are all of high interest to the antiquary 
There are certain buildings in Paris, that are purely orna¬ 
mental, such as the triumphal columns and arches; their de¬ 
scriptions will be found given in ample detail, and, as they 
are not numerous, it is sufficient in this place to point out the 
Arc de Tnomphe de I’Etoile, and the Column of the Place Ven- 
ddme, as at once the most prominent and interesting 
Other edifices, intended for public use, as well as for the 
embellishment of the capital, are the numerous bridges • these 
are noticed fully in the description of the Seine. ’ 

The fountains also, those indispensible ornamenlt. of streets 
and public places, comprise some beautiful specimensof modern 
french art. The Fountain of the Chdteau d’Eau, Boulevard 
^ something of the old Roman grandeur; those 
of the Place Richelieu and Place du ChMelet also rank amongst 
ie best; that ol the rue de Grenelle is a costly construction of 
the time and style of Louis XV.; but the most striking and or- 
lamenlal are those of the Place de la Concorde. Of th e Fountain 
0 ™, rene ! e ’ P r Putts A rtdsien, we have spoken in another place 
lllst,tu Uons of Paris have inherited much of 
eir architectural wealth from the monastic establishments 
which many of them have replaced. Great solidity and size are 
the prevailing characteristics of these buildings. The Hotel Dieu 

?s°th? S mn n c? archltecl ;'[ al he aut y l the hospital oflhe Salpttriere 
s the most remarkable for its construction as well as for its 
extent; and with these may be classed the Hdpital St. Louis 
a picturesque edifice of the time of Henry IV. After these should 
be named Bicdtre , which, though not within the walls oflhe 
\TrluV Gi so f ess K entially an institution of Paris, that U may 

hp^ia d r° ne ° f the PariSian ll0S P itals - The manner in which 
theseedificesaremaintained, by public as well asprivaU funds 
is highly honourable to the nation and the government. 

• t 1G j 8 reat charitable institutions, among several others 

ihp C pH t f ° rthe s . ervice of the army, are not less interest- ng for 
the edifices jn which they are seated, than lor their w de and 

Spa - UUU \ Y ' ThC mi,itary hos l )ilal ot the Val de ( rdce is 

Paris^ andThe/M mT'V 116 ,'!! 081 richly - a,lorned tent of 
ans and the Hotel des lnvahdes, scarcely within the Mass of 

hospitals, is a splendid and colossal pile of building 

iNexl to the military hospitals rank the casernes^orhi .racks 

some ol wh ch are entitled to attention J thiir 2 e S 

Mneh. i meS « ei , r ma S nifi cence. They are al>out to in number 
(including the buildings erected for other purposes but now 

appropriated as soldiers’ lodgings); most of them were erected 
about the year 1780, by order of Marshal Biron; they meet the 


GENERAL NOTICE OF PARIS. 443 

eye of the stranger constantly in his walks through Paris. 
The principal is a monument of the time of Louis XV., the Ecole 
Militaire , in the Champ de Mars, which is one of the most 
admired buildings of that reign. 

As a class ot public edilices at Paris distinct from all others 
wc may mention the Barrieres. (1) When the great circular 
wall was commenced, that prodigal Minister Calonne charged 
M. Dedoux with the construction of ornamental edifices for the 
collectors of the revenue at the barriers, in order that the en¬ 
trances into Paris might impress strangers with an idea of its 
magnificence. Calonne was dismissed from the cabinet in 1786, 
and in September ol the same year the works were suspended 
by an order in council. On tst May, 1791, the entrance-duties 
were abolished, in consequence of which the barriers became 
useless. Under the Directory, about the year V., a small duty 
was levied, and the barriers were repaired. The product of this 
duty being given to the hospitals, it took the name of octroi de 
bienfaisance. During Napoleon’s reign the walls were finished, 
and the duty at the barriers considerably augmented. In 1817, 
the enclosure on the south was prolonged, in order to include 
the Abattoir d’ivry, the Hopital de la Salp6triere, and two 
suburbs. The total extent of the inclosure is 26,778 yards, and 
comprises 60 gales or barriers. At the eastern and western extre¬ 
mities of the barriers, boats called pataches are stationed upon 
the river to collect the duties upon the goods entering the 
capital by water. We would recommend the traveller to make 
a tour of the barriers. Of those most entitled to notice we shall 
give a brief description. The Barriere de Neuilly consists of 
two pavilions and a handsome iron railing, beyond which rises 
the triumphal arch de TUloile.—The Barriere du Trdne, or de 
T incennes, has two pavillions, and two columns seventy feet in 
height.—The Barriere Saint Martin presents the form of a 
temple, and is upon the same axis as the basin de la Villette. 
This edifice has been transformed into barracks for gendarmes, 
andtwosmall pavilions built for the officers of the octroi duties. 
—The Barriere de Fontainebleau consists of two symmetrical 
buildings ornamented with a Doric entablature.—The Barriere 
de la Care is a pretty square building, with a Belvedere on the 
summit.—The Barriere de Reuilly is a rotunda of brick, sur- 

(l) The outer boulevards with the wall of enclosure were commenced 
in 1783, but not completed till I8i4. The farmers-general, under the 
pretence of preventing smuggling, but in reality to increase the octroi 
duties, prevailed on the minister Calonne to execute these works, not¬ 
withstanding the great opposition made to it by the inhabitants of Paris 
at the time, and which gave rise to the following jeu de mots; 

Le mur murant Paris rend Paris murmurant. 


INTRODUCTION. 

rounded by a peristyle of 24 columns supporting arcades.—The 
Barriere de Chartres is in the form of a circular temple, with 
a portico of columns.—The Barriere de Passy is richly decora¬ 
ted with sculpture; to the right and left of the building is an 
iron railing divided by pedestals, supporting colossal figures 
personifying Brittany and Normandy.—The Barriere de VEcole 
Militaire consists ol two buildings, with a porch between. 

The Theatres and Prisons we reserve for description elsewhere. 

PRIVATE EDIFICES.—The oldest parts of Paris, in the im¬ 
mediate neighbourhood of Notre Dame, and on the banks of the 
eine facing the lie de la Cite, still contain many houses that 
Belonged to the bourgeoisie of the 13th and 14 th centuries. The 
most remarkable of the royal and noble mansions of the middle 
ages are the Hotel de Sens, and the Hotel de Clung, both of 
which will give an interesting and perfect idea of the domestic 
architecture of that period. For the times of Henry IV., the 
Hotel de Lamoignon, the Hotel de Sully, and the Hotel de 
Carnavalet, may be quoted as fine specimens of the Italian 
taste which then prevailed throughout France. No considerable 
improvement took place till the time of Louis XIV., when the 
magnificence of the monarch communicated itself to his court 
and the increased extravagance of the nobility, producing a 
general change in the social habits, led to the erection of many 
ol the finest amongst the old hotels of the faubourg St. Germain 
Some of the streets that intersect the rue du Bac furnish nu¬ 
merous examples of the grandeur of that day. The other resi- 
dences of that quarter for the most part date from the reign 
ot Louis XV., or the early years of his unfortunate successor 
when space combined with lightness of ornament assumed the 
place of the massive grandeur of the age of Louis le Grand A 
check was given to all progress in architecture by the Revo- 
ution. During the last 17 years, however, a patriotic and en¬ 
lightened government has by its example encouraged a taste 
for improvement, which, no longer confined to the residences 
of the wealthy and the noble, pervades all classes, and is visible 

hp h p e i Sen Tf ad0rnment and increa sed health and extension of 
u 6 f y i* lie , 11GW streels the neighbourhood of the Bourse 
l ie Boulevards, the Champsfilysees, etc., abound with instances 
at may -lie appealed to, many of them presenting specimens 
of ornamental architecture more perfect than are to be found 
m any city north of the Alps. Notices of several of he most 
remarka bl e of the hotels and great mansions of Paris wiH be 
ound in our descriptions of the arrondissemenls as they occur 
As frequent allusions are made in this work to Doirvk mn * 
necled with the History of France, a chronological table of the 


GENERAL NOTICE OF PARIS. 445 

Kings, with the dales of their accession, is subjoined. It begins 
with the first monarch of the 2nd or Carlovingian race. 


A.D. 


Pepin. 752 

Charlemagne. 768 

Louis I. Le Debonnaire. . . 814 

Charles 11 . Le Chauve. . . 840 

Louis II. Le B'egue. ... 877 

Louis III. and Carloman. . 879 

Charles III. Le Gros. . . 884 

Eudes.888 

Charles IV- Le Simple. . . 898 

Raoul.923 

Louis IV. d'Oulremer. . . 936 

Lolhaire.954 

Louis V. 986 

Hugh Capet (first king of the 
3 d or existing race.). . . 987 

Robert. 996 

Henry I.i 03 i 

Philipppe 1.1060 

Louis VI. Le Gros. . . . 1108 
Louis VII. Le Jeune. . . 1137 
Philippe II. Auguste. . . . 118O 

Louis VIIF.1223 

Louis IX. St. Louis. . . . 1226 
Philippe 111 . Le Hardi. . . 1270 
Philippe IV. Le Bel. . . . 1285 
Louis X. Le Hutin. . . . i 3 i 4 
Philippe V. Le Long. . . 1316. 
Charles IV. Le Bel . . . 1322 
Philippe YI. De Valois. . . i 328 


Jean II. Le Bon .. 

Charles Y.. 

Charles VI.. 

Charles VII.. 

Louis XI.1461 

Charles VIII.. 

Louis XII.1498 

Francis 1 .1515 

Henry II.1547 

Francis II.. 

Charles IX.1560 

Henry III.1574 

Henry IV.4539 

Louis XIII.1610 

Louis XIV.1643 

Louis XV.1715 

Louis XVI.. 

States-General.1789 

Constituent Assembly. . . 1789 
Legislative Assembly. . . 1791 

Republic, National Conven¬ 
tion.. 

Reign of Terror.1793 

Directory.1795 

Consulate.1799 

Napoleon, Emperor. . . . 1804 
Louis XVIII. Restored. . . 1814 

Charles X.1825 

Louis Philippe. 1830 


The following is a list of some of the principal places of his¬ 
torical note in Paris, as well as of those which are memorable 
for scenes of popular disturbances, etc., during the revolutions 
of 1792 and 1830; they are all mentioned in their respective 
arrondissements. (See Index.) 

Places of Historical Note .—House where Corneille died.— 
Rue de Bethisy, where Coligny was massacred.—Rue St. Ho- 
nore, where Henry IV. was murdered.—House replacing that 
wherein Moliere was born.—Corner of rue St. Nicaise, the 
scene of the Infernal Machine of Cadoudal, etc.—Scene of 
Fieschi's Infernal Machine.—Street where the Connetable Clis- 


son was waylaid.—Tomb of Lafayette.—Burial-place ofBoileau. 
—Hotel where Voltaire died.—Burial-place of James II.—Spot 
where Marshal Ney was shot.—House where Marat was assas¬ 
sinated by Charlotte Corday.—Spot where the Due de Berri 
was assassinated.—Old house where Gabrielle, the mistress of 
Henry IV., lived. 

Places Memorable for Scenes of Popular Disturbance, etc., 
during the Revolutions of 1792 and 1830.—Palaces of the Tui- 
leries, Louvre, Palais Royal, Elysee Bourbon.—Corner of rues 


13 






































446 first arrondissement. 

St. Hoilore and Rohan—Place de la Concorde.—Place du Car¬ 
rousel.—Church of St. Roch.—Place des Victoires.—St. Germain 
1 Auxerrois.—Porte St. Denis.—Marche des Innocents.—Rue 
Transnonain. —Temple. —Hotel de Ville. —Pont d’Arcole.— 
Church of St. Merri.—Place de la Bastille.—Notre Dame.—Pa¬ 
lais de Justice.—Site of Archbishop’s Palace.—Palais Bourbon. 
—Prison de l’Ahbaye.—Champ de Mars.—Rue Babylone (bar- 
lack). Pont des Arts.—Couvent des Dames Carmelites.—Place 
St. Germain l’Auxerrois, and front of Louvre. 


DESCRIPTION OF PARIS BY ARRONDISSEMENTS. 


[It should be premised that, as the Palaces of the Tuileries 
the Louvre, and the Palais Royal, are three of the most in¬ 
teresting objects of the Capital, and are almost always the first 
edifices which strangers are anxious to see, they are placed at 
the head of this Arrondissement, although the first only is 
situated within it. A farther convenience attends this arrange¬ 
ment, that from their position the visitor may walk from the 
one almost immediately into the other.] 


The Palace of the Tuileries.— Where this royal chateau now 
stands there were in the time of Charles VI., 1476, only some 
tile-fields, that had furnished Paris for four centuries, and a 
place for throwing carrion and rubbish, beyond the ditches of 
the Chateau du Louvre. (1) In 1518, Francis I. purchased a 
house erected there by Des Essarts and De Villeroi, and belong¬ 
ing to Nicholas de Neuville, which he presented to his mother 
Louise de Savoie, who found the air of the royal residence the 
Palais des lournelles in the Marais, unwholesome. In 1525* this 
princess gave the Hotel des Tuileries to Jean Tiercelin, maitre 
d hotel to the Dauphin; but, it having become the property of 
Catherine de Medicis, that queen had the present edifice begun 
as a residence for herself in 1564. Philibert Delorme and Jean 
Bullanl were the architects, and the parts erected by them 
were the central pavilion, the two adjoining wings, and the 
low pavilions by which they are terminated. Here her work 
stopped, lor being alarmed by an astrological prediction bid¬ 
ding her beware of St. Germain, and the Tuileries being in the 
paiisli of St. Germain Y Auxerrois, the palace was not at that 



(i) the foundations of the old tile-kilns were discovered in some 
excavations made in me. * orae 





PALACE OF THE TUILERIES. ^ 47 

time continued. During the reign of Henry IV. the palace was 
enlarged by the architects Ducerceau and Duperac who raised 
two other ranges of building faced with large composite pilas¬ 
ters, and erected the lofty pavilions at each end. This kin" 
also began the long gallery that joins the Louvre to this palace- 
and the works suspended by liis death were carried on and 
terminated under Louis XIII. Louis XIV. ordered the architects 
Levau and d’Orbay to harmonise the whole, which was still 
>ery discordant in its parts; in consequence of this an attic was 
added to the central buildings, and the spiral staircase, which 
lilled the lower part of the central pavilion, was removed 
although it was reckoned a chef-d’oeuvre of its kind. Since then 
little has been added to the palace itself, notwithstanding the 
changes that have taken place in the buildings dependent on it 
Napoleon began in 1808 the northern gallery, to serve as a 
communication with the Louvre ; and on that side considerable 
improvements have been made in the internal arrangements of 
the palace, as well as in the garden front, by king Louis Phi¬ 
lippe. The extreme length of the facade is 336 yards, its 
breadth 36. The general style of the architecture cannot be 
classed strictly under any precise denomination; the earlier 
parts of it may be taken as a good specimen of the revived 
Italian style of the 16th century, and the work of Henry IV. as 
the best piece of architecture of his day remaining in Paris. 
The visitor should carefully compare the Tuileries with a con¬ 
temporaneous building, the Church of St. Eustache, in order 
to have a good idea of the style and taste of their time. The 
columns that occur on the lower story of the central facade of 
the palace are of the Ionic order; those of the second of the 
Corinthian; on the third of the Composite; all adapted to the 
style of the epoch, the Ionic ones bearing bands and other 
sculptured ornaments which prevail in the buildings of that 
date. The ranges of building on each side of the Pavilion de 
VHorloge consisted originally of a long gallery to the south 
and the grand staircase to the north, erected in place of a si¬ 
milar gallery in the lime of Louis XIV. Towards the garden 
on the ground floor, vaulted arcades extended in front of these 
galleries from the central pavilion to the two middle ones 
forming terraces on the top. Only one of these terraces now 
remains, the southern one; the other has been replaced by a 
new staircase lately erected. The general effect of the Tuileries, 
is exceedingly grand, more from its great length and' varied 
outline, than from any excellence of detail. The garden front 
is the best, being more relieved by projecting and retiring 
masses than that towards the court. The extreme pavilions 
are remarkable for their lofty windows, and still more unusually 


4 ^8 FIRST ARRONDISSEMENT. 

lofty roofs and chimneys; the latter of which are fine specimens 
of architectural boldness, converting a useful but unsightly 
appendage into an ornamental object. That towards the south 
is called the Pavilion de Flore, that towards the north the Pa¬ 
vilion Marsan. Before giving a description of the interior of 
this palace, it will be necessary to allude to the monarchs by 
whom it has been successively occupied. Catherine de Medicis 
quitted it for the Hotel de Soissons; and no monarch after 
Charles IX. resided in it till Louis XIII., who made it the palace 
of the capital. It was used by Louis XIV., who dwelt here 
until the building of Versailles, when the court entirely forsook 
Paris, and afterwards by the Regent Duke of Orleans during 
the minority of Louis XV.; but from that period till the en¬ 
forced return of Louis XVI. in 1791, the families of persons offi¬ 
cially attached to the court occupied it. This latter circum¬ 
stance has occasioned the formation of a vast number of small 
apartments and entresols throughout the palace, and particu¬ 
larly in the two great pavilions. It is needless to go into the 
historical recollections associated with this palace durin" the 
Revolution, the Tuileries being inscribed on almost every pa*e 
of its history. It will be sufficient to allude to the ingress of the 
mob on the 20lh of June, 1792, and to the attack on the palace 
with the massacre of the Swiss guards, on the 10th of August of 
the same year. It was the official residence of the First Consul 
and subsequently the imperial palace, and has since the restora¬ 
tion continued to be the chief abode of the King and Royal Fa¬ 
mily. The people attacked and took it on the 29th July 1830 
Interior.-- The entrance to the king’s private apartments is 
by the Pavilion de Flore; they are on the ground floor of the 
southern wing, and were formerly occupied by Marie Antoi¬ 
nette. Visitors are not admitted to them. On the same floor 
nearer the pavilion, is a suite occupied by the Queen • and in 
the pavilion itself, Madame Adelaide, the Prince and Princess 
de Joinville, and their respective suites, are lodged. All this 
part of the palace is kept private. The Pavilion Marsan at the 
northern end, with part of the lateral gallery called the New 
Gallery of the Louvre, is occupied by the Duchess of Orleans 
the Comte de Pans, the Duke and Duchess of Montpensier, and 
their households; the apartments are exceedingly splendid 
fitted up with the greatest taste, and in the best style of mo- 

de !l n n art i’ ^\ e , anc * ® uc * iess de Nemours and the Duke 
and Duchess d’Aumale also occupy apartments in this pavilion 
The remainder of the chAteau, with its entresols, is filled with 
the apartments of attendants, corridors, the escalier d’honneur 
the chapel, theatre, etc. The staircase of the Pavilion de Flore 
leads on the first floor to the slate apartments. Those which 


PALACE OF THE TUILERIES. 4 49 

are first entered are on the side next the garden, and occur in 
the following order. The Salle de Mars, formerly the Salle 
des Gardes, in the time of Charles X.; it is a plain room, lead¬ 
ing to the Salle du Cornell, which is hung with red silk. This 
room contains some admirable paintings by the best modern 
French artists, including the works of Isabey, Granet, Mercey, 
Ouvrie, Sebron, etc. Beyond this is the Salon Bleu; it was the 
salle de reception of the Emperor; on the mantel-piece will he 
observed some curious ornaments in agate of the 1 3th century, 
also the Mazeppa of Horace Vernet, etc. Next comes the Pri¬ 
vate Library ; this was formerly the cabinet de travail of the 
Emperor : here also were signed the ill-fated ordinances of 
July, 1830, the immediate cause of the last revolution. The 
original furniture of the room, in tapestry of Beauvais, still 
remains. Then comes the Cabinet des Dames, with a bath-room 
attached. All these apartments had nearly the same destination 
unde;* Louis XV11I. and Charles X. Their ceilings and gilding 
have hardly been touched since the time of Louis XVI; and 
are not remarkable for any peculiar elegance of ornament. 
The next in order is the Salle de Famille, a large square room, 
rather low, and furnished with blue silk; it serves as a Salle 
de Reunion to the royal family every evening. This was the 
bed-room of Louis XVIII., in which he died. The visitor will 
observe, facing the spot on which stood the royal bed, a large 
casket of pure gold, exquisitely sculptured, presented by Car¬ 
dinal Mazarin to Louis XIV. : this splendid work of art, which 
contained an antique Bible of inestimable value, was stolen 
from the palace during the Revolution, and with great diffi¬ 
culty recovered; the manuscript, however, could never be 
found. There is also here a table in ebony and Florentine mo¬ 
saic, presented lately by Queen Christina to the Queen of the 
French. Next is the billiard-room, formerly the apartment of 
the gentleman in waiting on the King, from which a door opens 
on the terrace that extends to the Pavilion de l’Horloge, so that 
a promenade may be enjoyed by the royal family without de¬ 
scending into the garden. The rooms just described contain se¬ 
veral works of ancient and modern art, vases, curious clocks, 
cabinets, etc.; but in point of size and decoration they are not 
equal to the saloons of many of the nobility of Paris. The furniture 
and decorations of several of them stand in need of a complete 
restoration, which no doubt will be done, as soon as the many 
alterations and improvements executing by order of the King 
in the other palaces shall have been terminated. Behind these 
apartments, on the side towards the court of the palace, is the 
Galerie de Diane, 176 feet long by 32 broad ; a fine apartment 
of the lime of Louis XIII. The ceiling is richly gilt, and painted 


* 5 ° FIRST ARRONDISSEMENT. 

with copies of the Italian schools; day visitors will find it hard 
to judge of their merits, as the gallery has hardly windows 
enough. The panels were formerly tilled with paintings by 
French artists. This gallery is used as the Salle d Manger of 
the royal family on ordinary as well as on state occasions; 
two colossal candelabra in crystal and gilt bronze, presented 
in 1842 to Louis Philippe by the King of Holland, have lately 
been placed there. Next is the Salon de Louis XIV., a large 
and richly gilt room, containing a fine painting representing 
the presentation of his grandson Philip by Louis XIV. to the 
Grandees of Spain, and another of Anne of Austria, accom¬ 
panied by Louis XIV. and the Duke of Orleans, as children, 
both by Mignard. From this the visitor enters the Salle du 
Trdne, a large apartment hung with crimson velvet and gold : 
on either side of the throne will be observed gilt trophies of 
great antiquity; that on its right having belonged to Henry IV., 
that on the left to Robert of France (1280). The lustres are of 
rock crystal, containing some single pieces valued at £600 each. 
There is also in this apartment a vase of Sevres porcelain, said 
to be the finest ever yet executed. The Salon d’Apollon and 
the Salon d’Attente lead successively towards the central pa¬ 
vilion : the former is remarkable for its fine picture by Mignard 
of “Apollo and the Muses,” the appreciation of which, and its 
recovery from a lumber-room, are due to the discriminating 
judgment of bis present Majesty, to whom, as a judicious critic 
and munificent protector, the arts generally are justly grate¬ 
ful. All the apartments on this side of the palace are lighted 
by a profusion of very magnificent chandeliers, containing an 
immense number of lamps and wax tapers. They also contain 
some fine cabinets of the time of Louis XIV., anil some splen¬ 
did vases both in marble and porcelain, casts, etc. The central 
Pavilion de VEorloge forms one vast saloon or hall, called 
the Salle des Martchaux. It occupies two stories; under the 
windows of the upper are a bold projecting cornice and 
gallery, which towards the garden are supported by four 
caryatides, copied from those by Jean Goujon in the Lou¬ 
vre. The walls of this saloon contain in compartments full 
length portraits ol the living Marshals of France; among them 
will be observed those of Soult, Sebastiani, Bugeaud, Molitor, 
Gerard, etc. Busts of distinguished generals and naval com¬ 
manders are also placed round the room. This apartment 
is used as the ball-room upon state occasions, and the blaze 
of light which it then displays is exceedingly dazzling. From 
the Salle des Marechaux a door communicates on the garden 
side with a small and elegant apartment, lately constructed, 
which leads to a corridor running round the top of the esca- 


PALACE OP THE TUILERIES. -15] 

lier d’honneur. This staircase requires breadth to give it a 
due proportion to its length. The balustrades are in bronze 
and polished steel, and the stone work is richly sculptured. 
The Galerie Louis Philippe leads out of the Salle des Mare- 
chaux on the side next the court, occupying the upper part of 
the ancient staircase. This apartment, which serves also as a 
ball-room, is 140 feet long, by 35 broad ; and is lighted only on 
the eastern side, while on the western it has the panels, corre¬ 
sponding to the opposite windows, filled with immense mirrors. 
Over the mantel-piece is a bas-relief of King Louis Philippe oil 
horseback, nearly the size of life. At the southern end is placed 
the silver statue of Peace, voted to Napoleon by the City of Paris 
after the peace of Amiens : it stands between two marble co¬ 
lumns supporting antique busts. At the northern end are two 
tine statues of the Chancellors PHopilal and d’Aguesseau. From 
this gallery a door communicates with the royal pew in the 
Chapel. The apartment consecrated to this purpose occupies 
the ground and first floors : a gallery runs round three sides of 
it. The interior is quite plain, the gallery and roof being sup¬ 
ported by Doric columns in stone and stucco. In this chapel 
formerly stood a celebrated organ, which, however, no longer 
exists, having fallen a victim to the Vandalism of the revolution 
of 1793. At the northern end of the Galerie Louis Philippe is a 
room the ceiling of which attracts much notice from its work¬ 
manship and antiquity, having been brought from Vincennes, 
where it once decorated the sleeping-apartment of “ la Reine 
Blanche.” This leads to the Thddtre, an elegant saloon, com¬ 
posed of a parterre and two principal galleries, or rather two 
ranges of loges, with a circle of much smaller ones near the 
ceiling, capable of accommodating about six hundred specta¬ 
tors. The stage is sufficiently capacious for all the purposes of 
the drama, for its size and completeness in machinery, trap¬ 
doors, and other accessories so unlooked for in a theatre of 
this description, render it suitable for every species of dramatic 
representation, from “ gorgeous tragedy,” down to the mere 
display of a ballet. When balls are given at the palace, the pit 
being boarded over, it is used as a supper-room. Some ante¬ 
rooms conduct to a staircase leading down between the chapel 
and the theatre to the Court near the Pavilion Marsan. All the 
apartments on the side of the Court open one into the other 
in a straight line, and the visitor standing at either end, and 
looking along them, will have a magnificent coup d’ceil of the 
whole extent of the palace. The interior of the building has 
been much embellished by the present King; many of the ceil¬ 
ings have been repaired and cleaned, the gilding restored, etc., 
and the Tuileries has assumed a style of splendour which it 


452 FIRST ARRONDISSEMENT. 

never before exhibited. For permission to seethe interior, ap- 
plicaiion must be made to M. le Commandant du Chdteau des 
Tuileries; but in general it may be said that it cannot be ob¬ 
tained, except when the King is at Fontainebleau, Compiegne, 
or Eu. In the same manner the splendid apartments of the 
Duchess of Orleans, Duke and Duchess of Nemours, etc., can 
only be seen when their Royal Highnesses are absent from Paris. 

Garden of the Tuileries.—A street, called the rue des Tui¬ 
leries, formerly ran between the palace and the garden ; but in 
1665, the celebrated Le Notre was entrusted by Louis XIV. with 
the care of laying out the garden, which was then planted and 
arranged nearly in the same state in which it is at the present 
day. Two parallel terraces on the north and south run from 
the extreme pavilions of the palace; at the western end they 
slope toward each other, and meet the level of the garden. The 
total area so inclosed is about 67 acres : its length is 2256 feet, 
and its width 900 feet. The terrace to the south is the more 
elevated and the wider of the two; it is occasionally appro¬ 
priated as the private walk of the royal family, and the greater 
part of it is therefore not public. A subterranean passage leads 
to it from the palace ; from it the best view of the Seine and of 
the palace is to be obtained. That on the north is known as 
the Terrasse des Feuillants , so called from a convent that stood 
there before the Revolution. Near it was the manege, or riding- 
school, where the National Assembly held its sittings. A hand¬ 
some iron railing, with gilt spear-heads, separates it from the 
rue de Rivoli. The intermediate space of the garden between 
these terraces is laid out in the following manner. A broad 
avenue leads from the Pavilion de l’Horloge down to the 
western entrance of the garden on the Place de la Concorde. 
Immediately in front of the palace are two flower-gardens, 
separated from the broad walk that intervenes between them 
and the rest of the garden by fosses, and inclosed with netted 
iron railings. These were intended to afford the royal family 
the means of walking without being incommoded by the crowd. 
A large portion of the garden then succeeds, laid out in the 
style of Louis XIV., which, though formal, acquires an air of 
grandeur from the size of the parterres. Three circular basins, 
and numerous groups of statues, are interspersed throughout 
this part of the garden. To the west is the grove divided by 
the long avenue before mentioned: it is filled with fine-grown 
cliesnut trees, elms, planes, and limes, yielding a deep shade 
in summer, and by its dark and solid mass of foliage offering a 
bold contrast to the gayer beauties of the flower-garden. West 
of the grove is a large octagonal basin of water, and some 
smaller parterres, North of the grove and flower-garden, be- 


GARDEN OF THE TUILERIES. i 53 

tween them and the Terrasse des Feuillans, is the AlUe des Oran - 
gen, so called from a fine collection of orange trees placed 
here every summer. This alley with the adjoining terrace is 
the most fashionable promenade of Paris, both in summer and 
winter; during the sunny hours of the latter, and in the cool 
evenings of the former season, all the gayest of the capital are 
to be found here, either occupying chairs, which are let out 
at two sous a-piece, or promenading or conversing in groups. 
On Sunday afternoons, the crowd, if not so select, is much 
more numerous, and the alley of orange trees frequently forms 
a compact mass, presenting every variety and colour of dress 
which happen to be the fashion of the hour with the fickle Pa¬ 
risians. The garden of the Tuileries is also the favourite ren¬ 
dezvous of children and elderly people of both sexes, the former 
of whom come there for exercise and air, the latter for repose 
and warmth. The parterres and wall of the northern terrace at 
the western end have a southern exposure, and, being com¬ 
pletely sheltered on all sides, are the warmest parts of the 
garden. Here, children and old people swarm like bees on a 
sunny day; and to this spot has been given the appropriate 
name of La Petite Provence. At this western end of the garden 
is a wide entrance with iron gates. Before the Revolution, a 
pont-tournant, or swing-bridge, which could be removed at 
pleasure, communicated over the fosse, which still exists, with 
the Place Louis XV. It was a spot famous in the Revolution. 
The terraces are here occupied by embowered seats, and the 
views from thence of the Champs Elysees, and of Passy, with 
the Place de la Concorde and the river, are very striking. There 
is a great deal of good sculpture in the garden of the Tuileries 
that deserves examination. The piers of the western entrance 
are graced with two spirited groups, by Coysevox, one of Mer¬ 
cury, the other of Fame, riding winged steeds. The corners of 
the western wall are adorned with two colossal marble lions, 
copies from the antique. On the two adjoining terraces on 
either side of the entrance are the nine Muses, and Apollo. Below, 
west of the octagonal basin, are four masterly groups in mar¬ 
ble, representing, from north to south, 1, the Tiber, by Bour- 
dol; 2, the Loire and the Loiret, by Coustou; 3, the Seine and 
Marne, by Van Cleve; 4, the Nile, by Bourdot. On either side 
of the central grove, on the opposite side of the basin, we re¬ 
mark two statues of Bacchus, a Vestal by Legros, busts of the 
4 Seasons, Hannibal, by Sloedlz, and Scipio Africanus, by Cous¬ 
tou. Under the trees of the northern grove, we see a Centaur 
subdued by Cupid, and a fine group of Castor and Pollux. In the 
opposite grove is a copy in marble of the well-known boar, of 
Which the Grecian original is preserved in the Gallery of Flo- 


* ^ FIRST ARRONDISSEMENT. 

rence, where another copy in bronze by Tacca adorns the 
Mercato Nuovo. Next comes a group of two Wrestlers by 
Mangin; another of Bacchus and Hercules in his youth; and lastly 
a raun with a goat. At the eastern extremity of the groves 
are statues of Diana, the Farnesian Flora, Trajan, and the 
Jamesian Hercules, placed alternately with four vases. 
West oi the central basin of the flower-garden, are four 
magnificent groups, representing, from north to south the 
rape of Cybele by Saturn, by Regnaudin; Lucretia and Colla- 
tinus, by Lepautre; ^Fneas bearing Anchises, and leading As- 
camusby the hand, by Lepautre; lastly, Boreas carrying off 
Orythya, by Marsy and Flamen. Opposite are Phaetusa trans- 
ormed into a tree, and Atlas metamorphosed into a mountain. 
At the northern extremity of the alley crossing the flower- 
garden are: Prometheus chained to a rock, by Pradier, and 
heseus killing the Minotaur, by Ramey junior. At the southern 
extremity we find Alexandre combattant, by Devaismes, and 
a Spartan soldier, by Cortot. Opposite to these, on the terrace, 
reclining on a highly sculptured basement, is Ariadne slum¬ 
bering, in bronze. At the contiguous extremity of the wide walk 

aSL etWee ? lhe flo ' ver -S arden anti the palace, stands 
spirited gi oupin bronze of a lion killing a serpent, by Barye 

Following the same walk, there are, at the corners of pJrterres' 
statues of Pericles, by De Bay ; Phidias, by Pradier - Cincin- 
Fnv!, S t’ ,y n° yal ' er: , le Laboureur, by Lemaire; Spartacus, by 
!n i m e i ; Ihem,stoc,es > b y Lemaire; Cato of Utica, by De Bay 1 
and Philopcemen, by David. Opposite to them are elegant and 
graceful figures of Diana, Flora, Venus, and a Sylvan Nymph 

stvle°n U f thP ? nd Co / s T evox ’ S ivin S favourable examples of the 
sty leof the time of Louis XV. At the extreme corner of the 

sou thern part of the private enclosure is a statue of Ulysses 

d ° s Ar S us - In lhe parterre is a bronze cast of the Lao- 

AtaSiite m5 a f l Jh deS lh ® runnin & fi S ures <>f Hippomenes and 
< anta, and further on, the Diana and the Apollo Belvedere 

ho p on/e - Al l,le corners of the avenue of the Pavilion del’Hor- 
thf a r the ce,ehrated Values of the Venus Pudica, (j) and 
the Arrotmo, or W better, cast in bronze by the Kellers in 1688 

I B n ?hp d n a ti r s5de °f llie entrance to the palace is a lion 
Vnnm J!??- parterre are bronze casts of the Antinous, the 
s de Medicis, and Apollo killing the serpent Python with 
running figures on each side, and* at the corne/is fa? 
Jdaying the flute. A great number of handsome vases are inter- 
persed. Facing the Allee des Orangers is a statue of Hercules 
holding a Pygmy, by Bosio, in bronze by Carbonneau; and at 

WaS b f ,lind this statue Henry placed himself, July 29 th I84fi 
hen he perpetrated his attempt upon the fife of Louis Philippe. ’ 


PLACE DU CARROUSEL* 455 

the opposite extremity is a marble statue of Meleager. From 
the great size of this garden, the white marble of the statues 
produces a light and pleasing effect contrasted with the foliage 
ot the trees. Great care is taken in keeping the garden clean: 
persons in working habits, or carrying any parcels except books, 
are not allowed to enter it. The gardens are opened from 7 in 
the morning till dusk in winter, and till 9 in summer, when, if 
the royal family are resident in the palace, bands of the diffe¬ 
rent regiments play before the Pavilion de l’Horloge at 7 o’clock 
in the evening. But when absent the band plays only on the 
Thursday and Sunday. The gardens at the time of closing are 
alwajs cleared by beat of drum, and a company of soldiers. 

The Court of the Tuileries, on the east side of the palace 
was formed principally by Napoleon. It is separated from the 
Place du Carrousel by a handsome iron railing, with gilt spear¬ 
heads, extending parallel to the whole range of the palace. 
There are three gateways opening from this court into the 
Place du Carrousel, the middle one of which corresponds to 
the central pavilion of the palace; the other two have their 
pillars surmounted by colossal figures of Victory, Peace, His¬ 
tory, and France. A gateway undereach of the lateral galle¬ 
ries communicates on the north with the rue de Rivoli, on the 
south with the Quai du Louvre. It was at the inner corner of 
the latter, that the assassin Alibaud posted himself on 25lhJune, 
18*36, when he fired at the King. Where the iron rails now 
stand, there were rows of small houses and sheds before the 
Revolution; and this circumstance materially facilitated the 
attack on the palace by the mob on 10th August, 1792. Napo¬ 
leon used to review his troops in this vast court; and the Na¬ 
tional Guards, and troops, who mount guard at the Tuileries 
are inspected here every morning, at 10 o’clock, with music.’ 

The Place du Carrousel derives its name from a great tour¬ 
nament held here by Louis XIV., in 1662; but has only attained 
its present size of late years. This unsightly space is at length to 
be thoroughly repaved with footpaths on the plan of the Place 
de la Concorde, and the shabby booths that line the rue du 
Carrousel replaced by elegant rows of shops. The cost, to be 
supported by the City, the state, and the Civil List, is fixed a 
300,000 fr. The principal object of interest in this place is 

The Triumphal Arch, erected by Napoleon in 1806, after the 
designs of Percier and Fontaine. Its height is 45 feet, length 60, 
and breadth 20. It is designed after the arch of Septimius Se- 
verus at Rome, and consists of a central and two smaller lateral 
arches, each of which, unlike the original, is intersected by a 
transversal arch of equal height. Eight Corinthian columns of 
red Languedoc marble, with bases and capitals of bronze, sup- 


456 


FIRST ARRONDISSEMENT. 


port the entablature. Upon this is a low attic, crowned with a 
triumphal car and four bronze horses, modelled by Bosio from 
the famous Corinthian horses which were brought hither from 
the piazza of St. Mark at Venice, but were restored by the Allies, 
in 1815. An allegorical female figure stands in the car, and one 
on each side leads the horses. In front of the attic, over each 
column, stands a marble figure of a soldier of Napoleon’s army, 
in the uniform of the several corps, and over each of the smaller 
aichways isa marble bas-reliet representing memorable events 
of the campaign of 1805. That over the right-hand arch, look¬ 
ing fi om the Place du Carrousel, is the Victory of Austerlitz; 
that to the lelt, the Capitulation of Ulm. Over the transversal 
archway, on the south side, is the Peace of Presburg, and on 
the north, the Entry into Vienna. Over the right-hand archway 
looking from the Tuileries, is the Interview of the Emperors; 
over the left, the Entry into Munich. AH these sculptured com¬ 
partments are of high finish, and by eminent French artists. 
During the Restoration, these bas-reliefs were removed, and 
subjects taken from the campaign of the Duke d’AngouI6me in 
Spam, in 1823, were placed in their room. The formerwere 
however, restored after the revolution of 1830. This arch' 
which is far too small for the site, and is dwarfed by the build¬ 
ings around, is nevertheless oneofthe finest monuments of the 
capital. It cost 1,400,000 fr. In the centre of the Place is a 
temporary column of recent erection bearing a Bude lMit. 

On the south of the Place du Carrousel is the long gallerv 
of the Louvre, which was built as far as the central archway 
by Henry IV. after the designs of Duperac, and finished by 
Louis XIII. and Louis XIV. It forms part of a great plan con¬ 
ceived by the former of those monarchs, for uniting the Tuile¬ 
ries and the Louvre, which, with a similar gallery on the north 
would then make an immense quadrangle, the whole of the 
buildings on the Place du Carrousel being removed. This was 
never carried further into effect than by the erection of this 
immense pile of building, until Napoleon revived the original 
idea, and built nearly half of the northern gallery. The original 
scheme, it is believed, is destined to be completed; the hocuses 
on the Carrousel will be entirely removed, the ground levelled 
the northern gallery continued, and the ornamental parts of the 
southern gallery will be finished; but we fear many years will 
yet elapse before this desirable improvement will be carried 
into execution. The gallery of the Louvre, which connects 
that palace with the Tuileries on the south, consists of two sto¬ 
ries, the lower ol which contains apartments belonging to the 
administration of the museums, the library, the service of the 
palace, etc., besides a large orangery for the preservation of the 




THE LOUVRE. 457 

plants from the garden of the Tuileries, and guard-houses for 
the troops on duty at the palace. The upper story is one im¬ 
mense arcade extending the whole length of the building and 
containing the celebrated collection of pictures belonging to the 
itoyal Museum. The external architecture is not uniform - the 
earlier part, as far as the central archway from the Louvre par¬ 
taking of some of the characteristics of the style of the Renais¬ 
sance. A series of alternate circular and triangular pediments 
tilled with sculptured devices, and divided by pilasters of the 
Composite and Corinthian orders, is continued along the whole 
ot its extent; and this, added to the great length of the building 
gives it, when viewed from a distance, an imposing aspect arid 
even a semblance of regularity. For the description of the 
interior ot this gallery the reader is referred to “ the royal mu¬ 
seums of the Louvre.” The northern gallery contains the 
head-quarters of the staff of the National Guards, barracks, etc. 

At the eastern end of an avenue at present occupying part of 
the area of the Carrousel, is the western entrance of 

The Louvre.— A castle or royal residence existed on the site 
of this palace at an early period of the monarchy, and is said to 
have been used as a hunting-seat by Dagobert, the woods then 
extending over the actual site of the northern part of Paris down 
to the waters edge. Nothing positive, however, is known of it, 
nor has the etymology of its name been accurately ascertained! 
Philip Augustus, in the year 1200, formed it into a stronghold 
and used it as a kind of state prison, for the refractory vassals 
of the crown. At that period it was immediately without the 
walls of Paris, but, on their being extended in 1367 and 1383, 
became a portion of the new inclosure. Charles V. made many 
additions to the old buildings; the Royal Library was kept there; 
also the various oflicers of slate and foreign princes visitin rr 
Paris were lodged in it. Francis I. determined to erect anew 
and magnificent palace on the site of this dilapidated castle; 
and accordingly, the greater part of it being demolished he 
began the present building in 1528. The southern half of the 
western side of the court, as it now exists, was erected by that 
monarch, after the designs of Pierre Lescot, and was intended 
to form one side of the court of the palace. His son Henry II. 
continued and extended this plan, completing the whole of the 
western side, now called the Vieux Louvre. The sculptures of 
this part were confided to the direction of Jean Goujon, and 
other great artists of the day. At this time, too, that part of 
the Louvre which extends from the south-west angle of this 
court to the quay was erected. Henry IV. made some additions 
to this part of the building at the time of commencing the Long 
Gallery; and during the reign of Louis XIII. the central pavi- 

14 


4 58 FIRST ARRONDISSEMENT. 

lion of the western side was added to the original erections of 
Lescot by Lemercier, who built all the lower part of the northern 
front. Louis XIV., at the suggestion of Colbert, decided upon 
completing this palace, and a public competition of architects 
was proposed to furnish designs for the new r building. A physi¬ 
cian, Claude Perrault, was the successful competitor, but, some 
distrust of his abilities arising at court, Bernini, who construct¬ 
ed the circular porticos in front of St. Peter’s at Rome, w as sent 
for from Italy, and his plans were adopted in preference to those 
of Perrault. Louis XIV. laid the first stone of the eastern front, 
and the erections had already risen above the ground, when 
Bernini falling ill, or taking a dislike to his task, was honourably 
sent back to Italy, loaded with presents and a pension, while 
Claude Perrault, to the honour of France and of Colbert, was al¬ 
lowed to carry his original design into execution in 16G6. He built 
the eastern front, and that towards the river; but the caprice of 
the King put a stop to the works, and diverted the skill and 
treasure of the country to the building of Versailles. During the 
remainder of the reign of Louis XIV., under Louis XV., Louis XVI., 
and the earlier times of the Revolution, the greater part of the 
Louvre remained without a roof, the rooms were not laid out, 
and the whole seemed to be destined to fall into ruin. Napo¬ 
leon, however, resumed the works of Louis XIV., and under 
him the Louvre was finished, and the surrounding streets and 
places cleared. Its internal arrangements have been principally 
made by Charles X. and Louis Philippe, and it is to be hoped 
that before long the entire embellishment of this fine palace 
will be concluded. Charles IX. inhabited the old Louvre, and, 
as is well known, fired from its windows looking towards the 
quay and river on the victims of the St. Barthelemy.(l)HenryIII., 
Henry IV., and Louis XIII. also resided here, as well as the 
unfortunate English queen, Henrietta, widow of Charles 1. 
Louis XV., during part of his minority, inhabited the Louvre; 
but since then it has been devoted to the reception of the va¬ 
rious museums of the fine arts, and has occasionally been used 
for great ceremonies of slate. Of late years it has also been 
rendered memorable by the attack made on it by the people 
on the 28th and 29th July, 1830, and its defence by the Swiss 
guards. The persons who fell on that occasion were at first 
buried in front of the eastern facade; they have since been 
removed to the vaults under the Column of July. The eastern 
facade of the Louvre is one of the finest pieces of architecture 

(I) A window with a balcony, on the first floor, is often shown as that 
from which he fired ; but this must be a mistake, as the entire building 
of which the window forms a part was not constructed till long after 
the year 1572, the date of that most perfidious massacre. 



THE LOUVRE. 459 

of any age. The grand colonnade is its striking feature, and is 
almost unique; it is composed of 28 coupled Corinthian columns 
A wide gallery runs behind, and the wall of the palace is deco¬ 
rated with pilasters and windows. The effect of the light and 
shade caused by this arrangement constitutes its chief merit. 
Ihe basement story, pierced with lofty windows, affords an 
a< r ™ b ' abIe C( | ntrasl b Y its simplicity ; and the projecting masses 
of the building in the centre, or at either end of the facade 
iron led with pilasters, and containing windows of very large 
dimensions, complete the grand features of this side of ihe pa¬ 
lace. 1 lie central mass of the building, forming the gateway, is 
crowned by a pediment, the sloping stones of which are each 
in a single piece, 52 feet in length and three in thickness. This 
pediment eontainsa bas-relief, executed by Lemot in 1811; and 
over the grand door-way is another by Carlellier, of the same 
date. The gales themselves, made by order of Napoleon, are of 
magnificently-worked bronze. To haveagood idea of the extent 
and splendid effect of this front, the visitor must place himself 
on the quay, and even on the Pont-Neuf. (l) The southern 
front, also the work of Claude Perrault, though not so bold, is 
very fine. It is fronted with forty Corinthian pilasters, and, 
like the eastern, has a richly-adorned pediment over the cen¬ 
tral compartment. The northern front does not harmonize in 
the least with the architecture of the southern or eastern front. 
A plain central pavilion projects from a still plainer body, the 
eastern extremity of which communicates with another pavilion 
in the style of the eastern front, and common to both; the 
western extremity ending in a pavilion as simple as the central 
one. It has notwithstanding a bold effect, but is so inconve¬ 
niently close to the opposite houses, that it can hardly be ap¬ 
preciated. Along the top of these three fronts there runs a 
rich balustrade, surmounting a bold cornice. The western 
front is in some respects similar to the northern, and, like it, 
offers a remarkable contrast to the gorgeous richness of the 
interior facades of the court. Of these the western side remains 
as it came from the hands of Lescot and Lemercier. The 
ground floor and the story above it have served as the models 
for the corresponding stories of the three other sides, and the 
court is so far uniform. The only difference consists in the 
third or upper story, which on the western side is surmounted 
by a battlement of very elegant work, and over the projecting 

(l) The dimensions of this front are as follows length, 525 feet; 
height, 85 feet; width of central compartment, 88 feet; width of extreme 
compartments, 75 feet; height of basement-story, 35 feet; height of 
columns, io diameters and a half, or 38 feet nearly. The entablature 
takes up nearly to feet of the entire height. 


460 FIRST ARRONDISSEMENT. 

parts of which are circular pediments, while on the three others 
an entablature and balustrade give to this story a considerable 
addition of height. A range of circular arcades, separated by 
Corinthian pilasters, forms the ground floor; and under each 
arch is a lofty window, not filling the whole of the space made 
by the recess. A bold cornice and entablature crown this 
story, and above rises the second, the design of which consists 
of windows richly moulded, with alternately curved and trian¬ 
gular pediments; each window standing over an arcade, and 
separated from the adjoining one by a Composite pilaster. The 
upper story of the western front has the windows very richly 
enchased with sculptured groups, trophies, etc. : the capitals 
of the pilasters are Corinthian, but very defective, the abacus 
being entirely rejected, and the leaves of the capital conse¬ 
quently in contact with the dentils of the cornice. This story 
on the other sides of the court is the same as the second, but 
with Corinthian pilasters. In the centre of each side is a pa¬ 
vilion containing the principal gateway, and on each side of 
these are smaller projections over the other doorways of the 
building. These projecting parts on the western side, six in 
number, are richly ornamented with sculpture in the circular 
pediments by which they are surmounted. Those of the southern 
half of this side are by Paolo Poncio, while the figures over 
the doorways are by Jean Goujon. The sculptures of the pedi¬ 
ments of the northern half were, however, executed in 1810. 
The central pavilion to the west is surmounted by a quadran¬ 
gular dome, the cornice of which is supported by colossal cary¬ 
atides by Sarrazin. In the other three sides the smaller pro¬ 
jections of the third story have their balustrades supported by 
columns detached from the wall, but are without pediments. 
The central gateways have each a pediment rising from the upper 
entablature, and containing sculpture by Lesueur, Ramey, and 
Coustou. The vestibule of the southern gateway is formed by 
two ranges of fluted Doric columns, leaving a carriage-road in 
the centre and a corridor on each side; that of the eastern one 
has columns of richer Doric; the northern and western have 
Ionic columns of different styles. With the exception of that 
to the east, they are all unfinished. Sentinels are posted at 
each of them. Perrault formed the designs of these three sides, 
which, however, were not completed in his time. The friezes 
are richly sculptured, and the capitals of the pilasters are all 
worked with great care. The length of each side is 408 feet: 
the whole forms a perfect square; and from the unusual quan¬ 
tity of decorative parts, of which the sides are composed, as 
well as from its magnificent proportions, it is one of the finest 
courts in Europe. The pavement, railings, etc., of this court, 


JU^WjUX ^ ^‘ w > 

THE LOUVRE. 4 61 

particularly on the eastern side, are unworthy of such a palace, 
and give it an air of desolation. It has been proposed to lay 
out the space in parterres, with shrubs and flowers, as also the 
two enclosures to the right and left of the eastern door-way, 
under the grand facade, hut nothing has been decided. At the 
north-western extremity of the exterior will be observed the 
walls of a projecting wing, intended to meet the northern gal¬ 
lery, and to correspond with the opposite side of the quadran¬ 
gle. Some additions will also be made to the southern wing, 
which was never entirely finished. A small garden still exists 
here, called the Garden of the Infanta, from the Spanish Prin¬ 
cess who came into France, in 1721, to marry Louis XV. There 
is also a small inner court formed by the projection of the un¬ 
finished wing at the commencement of the Long Gallery. It is 
decorated by antique bas-reliefs, a colossal granite Sphinx, 
brought from Egypt, and two porphyry Egyptian statues, re¬ 
sembling in posture the well-known statues of Memnon. 

In the centre of the court, on a circular platform of three 
steps, enclosed by an iron railing with gilt fleurs de lis, stands 
the equestrian statue in bronze of the Duke of Orleans. He is 
represented in regimentals, leaning slightly back, with his 
sword drawn, as if in the act of giving the word of command. 
In front, on the side of the marble pedestal facing the Tuileries, 
is the inscription : 

L’Armee au Due d’Orleaas, Prince Royal, 1842. 

On the southern side is a has relief in bronze, representing the 
Duke commanding the troops at the passage of the defile of the 
Mouzaia in Africa in 1840; another has relief on the northern 
side represents the taking of the Citadel of Antwerp in 1832. The 
design of this fine monument is by the celebrated Marochetti; 
it was erected in July 1845. The statue weighs about 10,000 kil. 

Interior. —Almost all the interior of this palace is devoted 
to the museums for which it is so celebrated, and which con¬ 
stitute the chief attraction of the capital. The description of the 
various galleries will be found in the order in which they occur 
to a visitor making the circuit of the palace. They are known 
collectively by the name of Musees Royaux; but individually 
as: Musee des Tableaux des Ecoles Italiennes, Flamandes, et 
Francaises; Salle de Bijoux ; Salle des Sept Chemintfes; Musee 
Grec; Salle du Trone; Musee rfgyptien; Salle des Seances; Salle 
de Henri II.; and behind the three last, occupying the same 
side of the square, la Galerie Francaise; suite occupied by Anne 
of Austria, Henry IV., and Henry II.; Musee des Tableaux de 
I’Ecole Espagnole ; Collection Standish; Musee des Dessins; 
Musee de la Marine;Musee des Antiques; Musee de Sculpture, etc. 


^62 FIRST ARRONDISSEMENT. 

The Musde des Tableaux des Fcoles Italiennes, Flamandes, 
et Francaises occupies part of the first floor of the wing of the 
Louvre built under Henry II. and Charles IX., as well as the 
whole ol the long gallery. It is approached either by the grand 
staircase, the entrance to which is in the southern wing of the 
western front of the Louvre, or by a side door. The grand 
staircase, built after the designs of Fontaine, is one of the most 
splendid parts of the Louvre. The ceiling is painted and orna¬ 
mented with great richness: the columns, of the Doric order, 
are of Flemish marble, with white marble capitals, and are 22 
in number. The staircase divides in the centre, under an arch, 
into two branches, one leading to the apartments surrounding 
the court, the other to the long gallery. Two divisions of the 
ceiling are thus made : on one, is the Revival of the Arts, by 
Pujol; on the other, Minerva protecting the Arts, by Meynier 
Some fine porphyry and marble vases stand at the head of the 
staircase. The first room of the Museum contains some of the 
earliest paintings of the middle ages. The next, called the 
Grand Salon, is one of the largest and best-lighted exhibition- 
rooms in existence. It contains either pictures of immense 
size, or those which require a strong light. The long gallery 
is divided by projecting arcades, supported by marble columns, 
into several sections, some ot which are lighted from the roof 
others by side windows. It is 1322 feet in length, and 42 in 
width. The walls, being entirely covered with pictures, admit 
ot no architectural decoration. The walls of the gallery all 
round are encrusted with red marble to the height of about 
three feet. Hie pictures are divided into three schools: the 
reneh, the Flemish and German, and the Italian, altogether 
1408, mz. French school, 380; Flemish and German, 540- Ita¬ 
lian 480 ; modern copies of ancient pictures, 8. None but the 
works of deceased masters are admitted into this museum 
w neb was principally formed by Napoleon, and enriched with 
most ot the chefs-d’oeuvre of Europe; the greater part were 
however claimed by the allies in 1815, but even now this ci¬ 
lery is one of the finest in the world, (i) & 

Returning to the grand staircase, on its opposite side a door 
to the right conducts to a circular room, containing a fine mosaic 

(1) There being catalogues published, at a low price, of most of the 
museums of the Louvre, which are procured on the spot, a detailed enu¬ 
meration of their contents would be as superfluous here as it is from 
the space U would necessarily occupy, totally impossible! For the two 
museums of Paris and Versailles there are annually sold 200 ooo cata¬ 
logues at t fr., and 100,000 at 2 fr.; 100,000 fr. more are takpn’for 
siting canes, umbrellas, and parasols. The net revenue from these 
sources, all costs paid, is said, to be upwards of 300,000 R.ayeTr 


THE LOUVRE. /J 63 

pavement supporting a pedestal and exquisitely sculptured ' v 
vase. Marble busts of a few of the great sculptors and painters 
of France are ranged around. Two beautiful gates of carved 
steel of the age of Henry II. close the entrance to la Galerie 
d’Apollon, the magnificent decorations of which, executed by 
order of Anne of Austria, are now being restored. From the 
circular ante-room the visitor enters the 
Salic des Bijoux, containing some curious and highly valuable 
cups, vases, jewels, porcelain, and other precious objects of the 
middle ages, belonging to the crown. Among them are a re¬ 
markable Arabian basin, of curious and ancient workman¬ 
ship, covered with handsome chasings, and stamped with 
fleurs de lis —it once served as the font in the Sainte Chapelle 
de Vincennes, and was used at the baptisms of Philip Augustus 
and the Count de Paris; a silver statue of Henry IV. while 
a boy; the looking-glass and other articles of a toilette given to 
Marie de Medicis by the Republic of Venice, and richly jewelled; 
some valuable pieces of damaskeened armour; a great number 
of finely cut cameos and agates; some cups in sardonyx designed 
by Benvenuto Cellini, etc. The intrinsic value of these curious 
objects, independent of the interest which attaches to most of 
them as gems of art, is immense. One alone, the casket of Marie 
de Medicis, is estimated at several thousand pounds. The spa¬ 
cious hall adjoining this, called the 

Salle des Sept Chemine'es, contains excellent copies of some 
of Raphael’s finest frescos in the Vatican. (1) From this apart- 

(l) It is impossible to inspect these works without a few explanatory 
observations. The first, opposite the entrance, is the “ Discussion 
respecting the Holy Sacrament.’ ’ The visitor will observe and admire 
the imposing assemblage of personages divine and human, the union of 
holiness and learning in the saints of the Old and the doctors of the New 
Testament, the glory above and the dignity below, which constitute the 
great excellence of this picture. Next is the “ Fire in the Borgo,’' near 
the Vatican .- here is seen a crowd of figures, all animated by strong 
emotions, and engaged in the tumult without being lost in the confusion 
of a great event. The female in the foreground, another carrying water, 
the figure sliding down the wall, and the effect of the draught of air on 
the dresses and on the fire, are singularly fine. The “ School of Athens” 
is placed next in order; it is so called, although it represents philosophy 
in general—a wonderful work for expression and scholastic knowledge; 
each personage being made to indicate by some peculiarity the school 
to which he belongs. Plato and Aristotle stand pre-eminent in the 
centre; the former holds the Timeus; his sublime style is expressed by 
his attitude, his thoughts seeming to soar above the earth. Seated on the 
second step, is Diogenes, reading; below is the great architect of St. 
Peter’s, Bramante, in the character of Archimedes. Alphonso of Naples, 
the patron of learning, in the garb of Zoroaster, holds a globe; Thales 
walks with a stick, to show that with it he measured the pyramids, 


464 


F\RST ARRONDISSEMENT. 


ment issue two suites of rooms parallel to each other, the first 
and most sumptuous in decoration being the 
Muse'e Grec et Romain. Here commence the series of anti¬ 
quities found in ancient Etruria and the south of Italy, hut 
chiefly in Greece. The collection occupies three rooms, and is 
exceedingly choice. It is to he regretted that no catalogue has 
yet been published of it, though one was commenced several 
years ago. The visitor’s attention will he attracted by the un¬ 
usual size of a great number of the vases, particularly those 
which stand on the marble tables, and to the high state of pre¬ 
servation of most of them. The wealth and refinement of Her¬ 
culaneum and Pompeii are represented here, and even most 
of the utensils of domestic life may he seen in these cases. A 
collection of glass vases, another of bronze instruments, and 
another of cameos and gems, will not escape the visitor’s at¬ 
tention. The rooms in which these treasures are contained, 
though not large, have been decorated and arranged by the 
first artists of the day with great magnificence and taste. The 
ceiling of the first room represents the apotheosis of Homer 
by Ingres; that of the second, Vesuvius receiving fire from Ju¬ 
piter to consume Herculaneum, Pompeii, and Stahiae, by Heim 
the third contains a picture by Meynier, of the Nymphs of Par- 
thenope, carrying from their shores their household gods, and 
led by Minerva to the hanks of the Seine. Other compartments 
of the ceilings are filled with subsidiary subjects. A fourth 
room contains porcelain of the earliest masters, as also some 
agates, ecclesiastical ornaments, and other curious objects be¬ 
longing to the crown, besides some beautiful ivory carvings in 
the glass cases. The ceiling, by Picot, represents Cybele, the 
Magna Mater, protecting Stabiae, Herculaneum, Pompeii' and 
Retina, from the fires of Vesuvius. The coves of these ceilings 
are variously ornamented with medallions and compartments 
containing allegorical paintings, and the walls immediately 


Watched by Parmenides, who leans against a column, is a youth Zeno 
writing short-hand, in reference to a poem by the former in two hundred 
lines on the several systems of philosophy. To enumerate all the figures 
woud be impossible. The distribution of this picture is admirable as 
also the easy dignified attitudes, and the expressive but severe counte¬ 
nances of the different philosophers. Last follows “ Avollo and tlip 
mses." m, s scene is laid near the grotto of Linus. Sappho unroMs her 
poem, Pindar discourses with Corinna; Homer by his superior eleva- 
ion shows that he has no rival—he is pouring forth a stream of harmony 
which fixes the attention of the Muses. The violin, an instrument newly 

onh^re’araS^ ^ “‘ iS C,assic 


THE LOUVRE. 465 

below the cornices are adorned with bas-reliefs in variously- 
sized compartments. 

La Salle du Trone is next entered; its magnificent ceiling is 
divided into nine compartments, with paintings by Gros. Six of 
these represent the busts of Pericles, Augustus, Leo X., Fran¬ 
cis I., Louis XIV,, and Charles X., with scrolls, bearing the 
names of the celebrated writers of their age. The centre com¬ 
partment represents the genius of Glory supported by Virtue, 
with scrolls bearing the names of celebrated French statesmen, 
warriors, and writers. In the eighth compartment is Truth, 
assisted by Time, receiving the protection of Wisdom. The 
ninth represents Victory holding the reins of two fiery steeds 
ready to draw the chariot of Mars; Peace offers him a bridle, 
the emblem of moderation. It is supported by white marble 
Corinthian columns, with gilded capitals and bases : the floor 
contains a fine mosaic, on which stands an antique marble vase 
found at Pera, and presented to the King by the late Sultan. Four 
beautiful colossal vases of Sevres porcelain stand in a row oppo¬ 
site the windows, and another stately vase of Berlin porcelain, 
a present of the King of Prussia, occupies the centre. In the 
back-ground are two costly Chinese sideboards and five idols from 
China, one of which a goddess, by no means a despicable spe¬ 
cimen of Chinese sculpture. The next four rooms contain the 

Musee tigyptien, most of the antiquities in which are the 
fruits of the French researches in Egypt. For the objects of 
domectic life, and for all minuter details, this is perhaps the 
most complete collection in existence. Of this, again, no cata¬ 
logue is published, and the visitor is forced to inspect the trea¬ 
sures of the different cases, aided only by his own conjectures. 
Valuable and exceedingly rare Egyptian vases, mummies of 
birds and other animals, some MSS. in fine preservation, and 
palettes on which the colours still remain, will be remarked. 
Seeds of various kinds, and even fragments of bread, found in 
the tombs of Egypt, are collected here. Glass cases occupy the 
embrasures of the windows, containing minute articles. Cloth 
of various kinds, brooms, musical instruments, walking-sticks, 
and a crutch shod with iron, all of the earlier periods of Egypt, 
find a place in this most interesting museum. The same gor¬ 
geous decorations of the ceilings and the walls are continued 
throughout these rooms; the style is Ionic, except the last, 
which is plain. The ceiling of the first presents an allegorical 
painting, of Study and Genius aiding Greece in exploring 
Egypt, by Picot. Abel de Pujol painted the ceiling of the se¬ 
cond room, the subject of which is Egypt saved by Joseph. In 
the third is the finest painting of all, by Horace Vernet, who 
has represented pope Julius II. giving orders for the building 


first arrondissement. 

of St. Peter's to Bramante, Michael Angelo, and Raphael. The 
4th room, smaller than the others, presents the Genius ofFrance 
encouraging the arts, and taking the Genius of Greece under 
Her protection, by Gros. Compartments in other styles accom¬ 
pany these ceilings. The visitor will be struck both with the 
sp endour of this suite, and the extraordinary rarity and beauty 
ol the objects which it contains. Behind the Musee Grec et 
kgyptien is a suite of nine rooms, called the 
Oferie Franchise, containing a choice collection of paintings 
of the French schools. In the first are the ports ofFrance, by 
Joseph Vernet, The middle room contains some curious carved 
urni me and objects of art and religious decoration belonging 
to the middle ages; among others a model in ivory of the 
facade of the Chartreuse at Poissy, executed by the monks. 

I he remainder are filled with pictures by deceased native art¬ 
els, many of which will be found to be of superior excellence. 
The ceilings of all these rooms are painted with the same 
magnificence as those of the parallel suite; and, if taken in the 
same order, their subjects will be as follows :-in the first 
room is the presentation of Poussin by Cardinal Richelieu to 
Corns XIII., by Alaux. The second contains the battle of Ivry 
by Steuben; and the third, Puget presenting his group of Milo 
o/ Cioiona, now in the Musde de la Sculpture Moderne, to 

inHnml nfii erSailIeS f ,)y De ™ a ’ also subjects represent- 
ng some of the principal events connected with the arts during 

the reign of Louis XIV. The fourth room presents Francis I 

accompanied by Ins court, receiving the paintings brought by 

n laly ’ execuled b Y Fragonard. The fifth is 
adorned with an allegorical representation of the revival of the 

arts in France, and with eight paintings of historical events 
from the time of Charles VIII. to the death of Henry H by 
He.m The ceil,ng of the sixth, by Fragonard, contains Fran- 
. knighted by the Chevalier Bayard; that of the seventh 
Charlemagne receiving the Bible from Alcuin, by Schnetz- the 
eighth room, by Drolling, represents Louis XII. proclaimed 
father of the people at the states-general of Tours in 1506- 
and in the ninth is the expedition to Egypt under the orders 
of Napoleon, by L. Coignet. In all these rooms are compart! 
ments containing subjects relating to the principal ones of the 
ceilings. On the ground floor of this side of the^ouH are stu- 
dios not shown to visitors without an order from the Director 
Passing to the second staircase, a door on the left hand leads 
to three chambers; the first, that of Anne d’Autriche bearing 
the date 1(354 ; the second, the Chambre d Coucher de Henri IV* 
with the date 1G03; the third, the Salon de Henri IV bearin' 
the date 1559. These were not the real chambers of the above- 


THE LOUVRE, 16*7 

mentioned personages, but the rich carvings and wainscoting 
once adorning three similar rooms, now destroyed, have been 
restored here, after having mouldered for years in a lumber- 
room. In the first is an original portrait of Louis XIII., by Phi¬ 
lippe de Champagne, and opposite this is a modern portrait of 
Anne d’Autriche. In the second, we see the alcove, of exquisite 
workmanship, where Henry IV. used to sleep, and where he 
died. Between the windows is his full-length portrait, and oppo¬ 
site to it will shortly be placed a pendant representing Marie 
de Medicis. In the third, besides the valuable tapestry in silk, 
silver, and gold, we find, in the centre, in a glass case, a suit 
of armour that once belonged to Henry II. Splendid in itself, 
this suit is still more interesting from its having been worn by 
that king on the day he lost his life, in 1559. The visor of the 
helmet is now up : it was then let down for air, the day being 
hot, and the exercises of the tournament fatiguing; so that the 
tilting-spear of the unconscious Count de Montgommeri, piercing 
the king’s eye, entered his brain. The works of the Spanish 
masters, arranged in the adjoining suite of rooms, live in num¬ 
ber, called the 

Galerie Espagnole, consists of 451 specimens of nearly all the 
masters of whom Spain can boast. Murillo, Zurbaran, Velas¬ 
quez, Morales, Cano, Ribera, Goya, etc., are all represented 
here by numerous and excellent productions; but tbe descrip¬ 
tive catalogue of the collection is so complete, that we refer 
the visitor to it for all further information. This gallery, first 
opened in January, 1837, was collected in Spain, at a cost, it is 
said, of only 900,000 fr., by Baron Taylor, wbo was commis- 
. sioned by Louis Philippe for that purpose, and who is entitled 
to general thanks for the good service thereby rendered to the 
admirers of the fine arts. On the left of the staircase, at the end 
of the Spanish gallery, is a suite of seven rooms, occupying 
the northern side of the Louvre, called the 

Collection Standish, containing the pictures, books, and draw¬ 
ings, bequeathed to the King by Frank Hall Standish, Esq., 
of Duxbury Hall, Lancashire, in 1838. This gallery contains 
some good original pictures and many line copies; the draw¬ 
ings are valuable, and the library is rich in rare books, among 
others the Bible of Cardinal Ximenes, valued at 25,000 fr. From 
the Gallery Standish the visitor proceeds through a suite of 
rooms, 14 in number, called the 

Musie des Dessins, one of the most valuable and extensive 
collections of works of this kind in existence, comprising nu¬ 
merous specimens of the great masters of all schools, of inesti¬ 
mable value to the professional student, as well as to the con¬ 
noisseur. There are 704 drawings of the Italian, 222 of the Fie- 



FIRST ARRONDISSEMENT. 

mish and Dutch, and 372 of the French schools, besides several 
by the Spanish masters—1298 in all. The drawings are mostly 
arranged under glazed frames on inclined decks, and the museum 
i self is a model lor such exhibitions. The rooms in which this 
collection is contained were formerly the only ones of the palace 
reserved for state purposes, and under Charles X. were used 
or the reception ol the Chambers before the opening of the 
legislative session. The first of the suite, called the Antechamber, 
ol the time ol Henry II., has a richly-decorated ceiling, repre¬ 
senting History recording the events of the battle of Bouvines; 
it is surrounded by allegorical figures by Blondel. The next 
apartment is the Grande Salle du Conseil, the ceiling of which, 
of vast dimensions, is painted with an allegorical represenlalion 
ol France receiving the charter from the hands of Louis XVIII. 
i bis splendid composition is surrounded by eight allegorical and 
as many historical paintings in compartments; the whole is the 
production of Blondel. The third room is known by the name of 
the Salle du Comitd des Contentieux ; the ceiling, by Drolling, 
represents Law descending upon the earth. The fourth is called 
tne Salle des Conferences; the subject of the ceiling, painted bv 
! Mmizaisse is Divine Wisdom giving laws to king and legislators. 
At the head of a double staircase, formed by the side of the Pavil¬ 
ion de l’Horloge, is a most beautiful stained window, representing 
m various cnmpartments the progress of the arts during the 
nndd e and later ages in France, executed by Chenevard, at the 
noyal Sevres manufactory; and the window ofthe landing-place 
ielo\\ represents, in stained glass, Charlemagne founding the 
Lcole Palatine, and in another compartment the same prince 
receiving the ambassador of the Caliph Haroun Alraschid. For 
the present, however, visitors are not shown this part ofthe 
palace. Continuing along the west front, we enter the Salle des 
Seances, a vast saloon, with two richly gilt porches of four Corin- 
thian columns each, crowned with appropriate entablatures, 
cing each other, at the northern and southern extremities. A 
gallery, supported by elegant consols, runs all round below the 
ceiling, which is painted in compartments with Arabesque deco¬ 
rations. 1 he adjoining Salle de Henri II. has a richly-emboss- 
ecl ceiling, the compartments of which, three in number, are 
painted by blondel. The middle one represents Jupiter pronounc- 
mg judgment on the relative advantages of the creations of 
Neptune and Minerva; the first having with his trident caused a 
spirited steed to spring from the earth, Minerva on the contrary 
having produced the olive-tree. The other two compartments 
are allegorical, of Commerce, with the attributes of Plenty, and 
War, representing a warrior bearing the laurel entwined with 
the olive branch, These two rooms, which are, however, seldom 



THE LOUVRE. . 169 

Open except during the yearly exhibition of modern paintings 
lead us again into the “ Salle des Sept Cheminees,” where we 
find the “ Musee Egyptien” to the left. 

The Musde de la Marine occupies the second floor on the 
northern side, and is approached by a small staircase leading 
from the ante-room of the Collection Standish; it occupies a 
suite of 13 rooms, and contains a great number of models of 
vessels of all classes, in every stage of construction, many also 
fully equipped and armed. In the 1st room the visitor will 
remark the model of the machinery used for elevating the 
obelisk of the place de la Concorde (see p. 184), and also the city 
of loulon, executed in high relief, on an extensive scale. 
Similar models ot Brest, Lorient, and Rochefort are in the 2d, 
3d, and llth rooms. In the 4th, the model of the three-decker 
VOcean, six metres in length, will attract attention. In the 
5th is a most exquisite model in ivory of the Ville de Dieppe 
man of war, not more than 7 inches in length. The 6th room, 
called the Salle des Sauvages, is principally interesting, as it 
contains an obelisk formed and decorated with the relics of 
the ship of M. de La Perouse, discovered and brought to France 
by an Englishman, Capt. Dillon. There is also a museum of 
arms and ornaments collected from the Indians of the South¬ 
ern Ocean and North America. Models of Chinese junks, one 
of which in ivory, of Chinese workmanship, about 32 inches in 
length, as also other models relating to the same country, 
have been lately placed here. In the 8th room is a model of 
the three-decker Valmy, executed in ivory and ebony, a chef- 
d’oeuvre of patient and delicate work, which took two men 
seven years to accomplish. The 10th room contains a large mo¬ 
del of a steam-engine, and others of fire-arms of every calibre. 
The llth room contains a beautiful model of the state galley of 
Louis le Grand, while the walls are decorated with the admi¬ 
rable gilt bas-reliefs which ornamented the original. The 12th 
contains, among other curiosities, 13 busts of the most renown¬ 
ed French admirals. In the 13th is the model of a locomotive 
engine. 

The Musde des Antiques is entered by the vestibule at the 
bottom of the grand staircase, or by one communicating with 
the side staircase leading to the long gallery. The series of 
apartments on the ground floor, which extend from the princi¬ 
pal entrance to the side next the river, were once occupied by 
Anne of Austria, and retain nearly all the decoration be¬ 
stowed upon them at the time of their erection. The ceilings 
are adorned with sculptured compartments, as well as with 
some fine paintings; and a great profusion of marble columns 
and incrustations on the walls are to be seen throughout them. 

15 


470 FIRST ARRONDISSEMENT. 

At the end next the river, and under part of the grand saloon, 
is the Salle de Diane, so named from a celebrated antique it 
contains. On the eastern side of the vestibule, at the foot of 
the grand staircase, another suite of apartments leads towards 
the east. This, like the other suite, consists of numerous apart¬ 
ments, forming two distinct parallel series, and are part of the 
old pile of the Louvre as it existed in the time of Charles V., 
from 1364 to 1380, and when it was inhabited by his consort, 
Jeanne de Bourbon. Catherine de Medicis had these apartments 
adorned by Bosso, Primaliccio, Paolo Poncio, and other cele¬ 
brated artists of that period. They are now divided into several 
compartments, called after the principal statues that are placed 
in them. The marble decorations of the floors and walls 
are exceedingly grand. With this suite communicates the Salle 
des Cariatides, a splendid hall, occupying the whole ground 
floor of the southern half of the Vieux Louvre. 11 derives its 
name from four colossal caryatides, by Jean Goujon, support- 
a gallery, at its northern end; they are of excellent exe¬ 
cution, and are reckoned among the chefs-d’ceuvre of that mas¬ 
ter. Above the gallery is a bas-relief, by Benvenuto Cellini, 
originally sculptured for a fountain at Fontainebleau. This 
S 1 eat collection of antiques dates from 1797, and in 1803 was 
opened to the public under the title of the Muse'e Napoleon ; 
it then contained, like the gallery of paintings, all the richest 
spoils of Italy, but which were restored in 1815 by the allies to 
their original owners. The present collection consists of 240 
statues, animals, etc.; 230 busts and heads; 215 bas-reliefs; 
and 235 vases, candelabra, altars, etc.; making in all 920 ob¬ 
jects. No description need be entered into of this most remark¬ 
able and most interesting collection, as a very complete cata¬ 
logue is published, and is to be procured on the spot. 

The Musee de la Sculpture Moderne, ou de la Renaissance 
occupies part of the ground floor of the Vieux Louvre, and is 
entered by the vestibule ol the western front. It is arranged in 
five halls, vaulted with stone and floored with marble; the 
walls are plain, but the mouldings and cornices are finely de¬ 
corated. This gallery contains many chefs-d’oeuvre, of the French 
school, and a few by foreign artists. In the first room is a mo¬ 
del brought from Spain of the tomb of Ferdinand and Isabella, 
and two statues of captives, supposed to be a master and his 
slave, by Michael Angelo, said to be among the best of his 
productions. In the Salle de Jean Goujon is a portrait of Diana 
of Poitiers : this favourite of Henry IL, who, at the age of 47 
captivated the youthful king, is represented as " Diane chassis 
resse;” around the base of the group are the interlaced cyphers 
of the mistress and her royal lover. A Cupid and Psyche, by 



THE LOUVRE. 

Canova; a bust of Cardinal Richelieu, by Coysevox, and an- 
other °f Henry IV., by Prieur, both striking likenesses. The 
balle des Bronzes contains statues of Louis X1IL, Anne of Aus¬ 
tria, and Louis XIV. as a child : these statues formerly stood 
on the Pont au Change. There is also here a model of a monu¬ 
ment erected by Charles V. ot Spain to his parents, Philip the 
Handsome, archduke of Austria, and Joanna, daughter of Fer¬ 
dinand and Isabella. In the last room stands a remarkably fine 
statue, Milo of Croton, executed for Louis XIV. by Puget. There 
is also a most interesting bust by Jean Goujon of the Admiral 
Coligny, which ornaments an ancient chimney-piece brought 
from the chateau of Villeroy; a bust of the “Grand Colbert/* 
by Auguier, and an Amour and Psyche, by Canova. 

On the ground floor of the eastern side are two spacious 
galleries or halls, filling the length of nearly one half of the 
side of the palace, and bearing the name Musee des Pldtres. 
These are partly filled with plaster casts from the Musee des 
Antiques; that to the South, sometimes called the Galerie de 
Henri IV., is annually used as an exhibition-room for modern 
sculpture. At the extremes of this side of the palace, and lead¬ 
ing from each of these galleries, are grand staircases rising to 
the first floor, and opening on to the colonnade. The vaulting of 
the roof above these staircases is formed of stone richly orna¬ 
mented, and supported by lofty Corinthian columns, remark¬ 
able for their size and their light appearance. 

Passing from hence to the northern ground-floor, the visitor 
is introduced to three new rooms, containing valuable relics 
of Assyrian sculpture, colossal statues, inscriptions, etc., bear¬ 
ing a strong resemblance to monuments of Egyptian origin, 
and recently dug up in the vicinity of Nineveh/by the exer¬ 
tions of M. Botta, French consul in Syria. A catalogue of this 
collection is about to be published. 

The King has ordered stained glass to be executed at Sevres 
for all the windows of the chapel of Henri IV., in the tower of 
the clock on the western side, the civil list having decided on 
restoring the chapel to its primitive state. 

The visitor to this beautiful palace will be struck by its great 
magnificence; it is amply large to lodge a sovereign with a 
numerous court, or to form the greatest assemblage of museums 
ever concentrated under one roof. 

All these museums except the last are open, to students and 
foreigners with passports, every day except Mondays, from 10 
to 4; the entrance is by a side door, to the right of the grand 
portal. All the Musees are open to the public on Sundays. The 
visitor will remember that all the galleries of the Louvre are 
strictly closed on the Monday, that day being reserved for clean - 


FIRST ARRONDISSEMENT. 


m 

ing. For permission to view the Musde de Sculpture Moderne on 
other days, written application post-paid must be made to 
“Monsieur le Directeur des Musees Royaux place du Musee, 
who also grants permission to study in the museums. (1) 

The Bibliotheque du Louvre, on the quai, is not public, and 
admission is not easily obtained without a personal acquaint¬ 
ance with the librarian, M. Barbier. It consists of a suite of 
14 rooms, and contains 85,000 volumes, 800 of which relate to 
the ordinances, etc., of all the kings of France. The prayer- 
book of Charlemagne, bearing the date 730, is preserved here. 

From the Louvre, the visitor will proceed, by the gateway 
on the northern side, into the rue St. Honore; and, turning to 
the left, will arrive at 

The Palais Royal.— On the site of this palace formerly stood, 
in the time of Charles VI., an hotel situated without the city 
walls; this was purchased and levelled by Cardinal de Riche¬ 
lieu, who built in its place the Palais Cardinal ; begun by Le- 
mercier in 1620, it gradually included all the space whereon the 
Hotels de Rambouillet and de Mercceur had stood, and was 
finished in 1636. Several courts were included within its walls : 
the eastern wing of the first contained a theatre capable of ac¬ 
commodating 3,000 spectators; the western was occupied by a 
magnificent gallery, the ceiling of which, painted by Philippe 
de Champagne, represented the principal events of the cardinal’s 
life. A similar gallery, formed on the western side of the second 
court, was adorned with portraits of the great men of France by 
Philippe de Champagne, Vouet, etc. The arcades of this court 
were ornamented with ships’ prows, anchors, etc., carved in 
stone, in allusion to the office of grand-master of navigation, 
held by the cardinal. Within the palace was also a second 
theatre, to contain 500 persons. The chapel was fitted up with 
extraordinary magnificence, and large gardens at the back of 
the palace covering a parallelogram of 1,000 feet by 432, stretched 
over the sites of the present rues de Valois, de Montpensier, and 
de Beaujolais. Their principal ornament was an umbrageous 
alley of chestnut trees, formed at an expense of 300,000 fr., the 
branches having been all trained with iron rods. The original 
plan of the cardinal was to have erected buildings round & the 

(l) Of late years the annual exhibition of the works of modern artists 
takes place in the long gallery; consequently this collection is closed 
from the 1st February to June, an arrangement prejudicial to art, and 
most annoying to the connoisseur who visits Paris at that season. 
However excellent a modern exhibition may be, it cannot supply the 
place of the Old Masters. It is highly desirable that this want of a pro¬ 
per hall of exhibition for modern artists may soon be supplied bv the 
erection of a suitable building, J 


PALAIS ROYAL. 473 

garden, with three grand porches; but the splendour of the 
minister’s design is said to have excited the jealousy of the 
king. Shortly before his decease in 1G42, the cardinal presented 
it to Louis XIII., confirming the gift by his will. On the death 
of Richelieu, the king removed to it, and from that period to the 
present time, excepting during the Revolution (when it bore 
the names of Palais Egalite and Palais du Tribunal ), it has 
retained its present appellation. On the death of Louis XIII. 
in 1643, Anne of Austria, with the young king, Louis XIV., made 
it her abode during the turbulent limes of the Fronde. The 
grand gallery to the west was converted into apartments for 
the king’s brother, the Duke of Orleans, to whom his majesty 
subsequently presented the palace for life. About this time it 
was considerably enlarged; the Hotel de Brion, at the corner of 
the rue de Richelieu, being added, and a grand gallery erected 
on that side by Mansard. In 1692, the palace was ceded by 
Louis XIV. to Philippe Duke of Orleans, his nephew, as part of 
his apanage on his marriage with Mademoiselle de Blois. The 
Regent Duke of Orleans, on coming into possession of it, placed 
in the grand gallery the valuable collection of pictures which 
he had purchased in various parts of Europe, and which, cele¬ 
brated as the Orleans Gallery, was sold during the earlier troubles 
of the Revolution, when the greater part passed into England. 
Here, too, had been arranged, by order of Louis XIV., the col¬ 
lection of medals and engraved gems, equally well known, 
which were subsequently purchased by the Empress of Russia. 
The orgies of which this palace was the scene have been suffi¬ 
ciently commemorated in the memoirs of the regency; during 
the lifetime of the succeeding duke they were discontinued, but 
were again to a certain extent resumed under his successor, 
better known as “Egalite.” In 1763, the theatre, built by the 
cardinal, was destroyed by fire; and, on this occasion, the entire 
front of the palace with its two wings was rebuilt, as it now 
stands, after the designs of Moreau. The debts of the duke 
having become so enormous that he once meditated a declara¬ 
tion of insolvency, it was determined, by the advice of the 
brother of Mme. de Genlis, to erect buildings with shops and 
places of amusement, in the garden of the palace, as a means 
of augmenting his revenue. These were begun in 1781, after 
the designs of the architect Louis, notwithstanding the clamours 
of the neighbourhood, about to he deprived of the view of the 
garden; the trees were cut down, and the houses and arcades, 
as they now stand, were finished in 1786. The plan succeeded. 
During the early part of the Revolution, the garden, which had 
been replanted, became the rendezvous of the most violent 
politicians of the day; it was here that the tri-coloured cockade 


474 FIRST ARRONDISSEMENT. 

was first adopted, and that many of the holder measures of the 
popular party were decided on. After the execution of the duke 
in 1793, his palace was confiscated, and soon converted into 
sale-rooms, ball-rooms, cafes, etc. In 1795, a military com¬ 
mission was established in it, and one of its halls was after¬ 
wards fitted up for the Tribunate, with apartments for the 
president and the two questors. It was then called Palais du 
Tribunal, but re-assumed its original title under Napoleon, 
who never lived there, having a marked dislike to it, but as¬ 
signed a portion of it to his brother Lucian, Prince of Canino, 
who occupied it some time. In 1814, the Duke of Orleans, his 
present Majesty, returned to it, and with the exception of the 
interval of the Hundred Days, resided in it till 1831, making 
additions and improvements, and fitting up the whole anew. 
Most of the houses surrounding the garden had passed through 
several hands during the Revolution, so that but a small part 
reverted to the King. 

Exterior. The palace, at present, consists of a court, entered 
from the rue St. Honore, by a Doric arcade and gateway. On 
the northern side is the principal building, and on the eastern 
and western, two wings projecting towards the street. The 
central compartment of the northern side consists of a ground 
floor, first floor, and attic, surmounted by a rounded pediment: 
the other sides of the court have only two stories. A regular 
gradation of the Doric, Ionic, and Corinthian orders is observed 
throughout. To the left of the outer front is a secondary en¬ 
trance, leading into a by-court enclosed by the Galerie de Ne¬ 
mours. From the first court a triple archway leads through 
the central building to the second court. Here the facade 
forming the southern side, is more extended : it presents two 
projecting masses ornamented with lluled Ionic columns, sup¬ 
porting an entablature with allegorical subjects in statuary 
The whole is surmounted by an attic. On the first floor is a 
fine range of windows belonging to the state apartments, and 
on the eastern and western sides of the court are wings with 
galleries underneath. The eastern gallery, called the Galerie 
des Proxies, still retains the naval ornaments of the time of Car¬ 
dinal de Richelieu. This gallery, the northern Galerie de la 
Cour, and the Galerie de Chartres to the west, are formed by a 
continuous Doric colonnade enclosing the court. Parallel and 
contiguous to the Galerie de la Cour is the Galerie d’Orleans 
300 feet long by 40 broad, on the site of the Galerie de Bois 
demolished in 1830. It is a lofty hall, paved with marble and 
roofed with glass, extending between a double range of splendid 
shops, over which a double terrace, bordered with shrubs and 
vases, serves as a promenade to the inmates of the palace. 




PALAIS ROYAL. 475 

The Galerie de Chartres communicates with the Peristyle de 
Chartres , leading to the Theatre Franeais, formerly the private 
property of the Dukes of Orleans. A private passage leads from 
the palace to the royal box. (See Thedtres, etc.) The houses 
immediately adjoining the palace, and forming the corner of 
the rues Richelieu and St. Honore, belong to the estate of the 
Palais Royal, and contain the stables, and numerous suites of 
apartments for domestics. 

The Garden, forming a rectangle of TOO feet by 300, and 
surrounded by the Galeries Beaujolais, Montpensier, Valois , 
and du J dr din, is planted with rows of lime trees from end 
to end, and a flower-garden, similarly disposed, is divided 
in the centre of the enclosure by a circular basin of water, 
with a tine jet d’eau. The garden was thus arranged, at the 
expense of the proprietors of the surrounding houses, in 1799; 
but it is now a dependence of the crown : it contains bronze 
copies of the Diane a la Biche of the Louvre, and the Apollo 
Belvedere; two modern statues in white marble, one of a 
young man about to bathe, by d’Espercieux; the other of a 
boy struggling with a goat, by Lemoine; Ulysses on the sea¬ 
shore, by Bra; and Euridyce stung by the snake, by Nanleuil, 
a line piece of sculpture, but more fitted for a gallery than the 
place it now occupies. Near this statue is a solar cannon, which 
is lired by the sun when it reaches the meridian, and regulates 
the clocks of the Palais Royal. Within the garden are 3 pa¬ 
vilions, occupied by persons who lei out journals to read at a 
sou each; and round them are to be found at all hours of the 
day politicians of every caste and rank. The receipts of the 
tenants of these pavilions are very considerable. Under the lime 
trees, which are trained so as to form shady walks, rows of 
chairs stand. These during the summer months are occupied 
by crowds of loungers; and so great is the profit arising from 
them, that the privilege of supplying the frequenters of the 
garden with refreshments is held of the crown at an annual 
rent of 38,000 fr., or £1520! The buildings that surround the 
garden are all of uniform architecture, and consist of two sto¬ 
ries and an attic, standing upon arcades, divided from each 
other by fluted Composite pilasters, which rise to the cornice 
above the second story. Under the arcades a broad gallery 
runs round the garden. The shops, all on the ground floor, are 
among the most elegant in Paris, arranged with the greatest 
taste and neatness, and, being chiefly devoted to the sale of 
articles of luxury, produce a most brilliant effect. On the 
first floors are a great number of restaurants, and here were 
formerly the gambling-houses which rendered this place so 
celebrated. The stories above are occupied by individuals of 


476 FIRST ARRONDISSEMENT. 

various professions. Under the arcades at the corner of the 
Theatre Frangais is Chevel’s magasin de comestibles, well 
known to gourmands. In the Galerie Montpensier is the cafe 
de Foy, and in the Galerie Beaujolais are the three restaurants 
of Very, Vefour, les Trois Freres Provengaux, and the cafe de 
la Rotonde, all unique in their kind. Under the Peristyle 
Beaujolais, to the north east, is the Cafe des Aveugles, a 
place of amusement worthy of a visit by the curious travel¬ 
ler, as being a favourite resort of the lower classes. It takes 
its name from a band of blind musicians, who accompany singers 
in little vaudevilles. A “ sauvage,” loo, a celebrated drummer, 
performs here. In the Peristyle Joinville, at the north-west 
corner, is the entrance to the Thedtre du Palais Royal (see 
Theatres ), not to be confounded with the The'dtre Francais, 
which also communicates, as has been observed, with the Palais 
Royal. It may be interesting to know that the rent of a shop 
occupying one arcade with a cellar, and the entresol, is gene- 
rally 3,000 fr. per annum, and, in the Galerie d’Orleans, even 
4,000 Ir. The double and triple shops pay in proportion. The 
best lime for seeing this brilliant bazaar is in the evening, when 
the garden and arcades are brilliantly illuminated and full of 
people; the shops of the watchmakers and jewellers will then 
particularly strike the visitor’s eye. The Palais Royal has been 
called, not without reason, the Capital of Paris, and it certainly 
is more frequently entered than any other space of equal di¬ 
mensions in the city. To the stranger it is particularly interest¬ 
ing from its historic associations. As early as Anne of Austria, 
the troubles of the Fronde may be said to have commenced in 
it: there Camille Desmoulins from one of the straw chairs ha¬ 
rangued the populace on the night of the famous charge of the 
Prince de Lambesc: the club of the Jacobins was formed in it, 
as also that of the Thermidorians: the Dantonists met at the 
Cafe de boy, the Girondists at the Cafe de Chartres. And still it 
is the same favourite resort of politicians, idlers, and the little 
rentiers of the capital, who may be said almost to live within 
its precincts. Improper characters of the other sex have of 
late years been excluded, and a strict guard is kept at all 
hours, particularly during the evening. The visitor should be 
on his guard against mock auctions sometimes got up in the 
shops here, and should not lend an ear to any pretended dealers 
who may accost him. The shops are generally kept hy respect¬ 
able people, but it is usually necessary to offer less than is 
demanded; a remark unfortunately applicable to other parts 
of Paris. 

Interior of the Palace.— The visitor is admitted at 1, rue de 
Valois, and on ascending a back staircase, finds himself at once 


PALAIS KOYAL. ,)77 

ill the Salon Rouge, communicating to the right with a suite of 
rooms occupying the eastern wing of the second court. The 
second of these, the Salle de Societe, contains a fine bust in 
bronze of Henry IV., and leads to the Galerie Doree, 63 feet 
long by 33 broad, having 8 windows towards the court; the 
panels opposite are filled with mirrors, and elegant Corinthian 
columns adorn the whole, the decorations being in white and 
gold, of the time of Louis XIV. The Salon Bleu is the last of 
this suite, and has a full-length portrait of his present Majesty, 
taken in 1818, and, on the chimney-piece, a marble bust of the 
Queen of Naples. The dining-room is an oval apartment facing 
the rue Valois, of Corinthian architecture. Returning to the 
Salon Rouge, which contains two fine paintings by Gericault, 
the next opposite the entrance is the Salle des Batailles, so 
called from being adorned with valuable representations of im¬ 
portant battles, by Horace Vernet, and other subjects besides 
by Monvoisin, Bouton, Steuben, etc. Next comes the Salle du 
Trone, used as such by his present Majesty after the revolution 
of July. The furniture and drapery are of crimson velvet. Next 
follows the Salle du Cornell, containing portraits of Charles III. 
and Philip V. of Spain, as also of the Duke of Orleans, Regent of 
France. The Cabinet des Bijoux leads thence to a splendid gal¬ 
lery 200 feet long, extending along the western sides of the 
second and the smaller courts. Its Ionic columns are in white 
stucco, with gilt capitals and bases. The panels of the side 
opposite the windows are occupied with a series of pictures, 
by celebrated artists of the day, representing historical scenes 
connected with the Palais Royal, from its first erection to the 
offer of the throne to his present Majesty by the Chamber of 
Deputies on the 7th of August, 1830: this picture, by Heim, is 
the more interesting, as it contains one of the very best like¬ 
nesses of the late lamented Duke of Orleans, as well as striking 
resemblances of some of the leading statesmen and generals of 
the epoch—Casimir Perier, Generals Lafayette and Gourgaud, 
Marshal Gerard, etc. At the southern end of this gallery is a 
fine marble statue of the Duke of Orleans, Regent of France- 
In the centre are other fine specimens of sculpture; namely, 
Leonidas, by Debay; a Shepherdess seated, by Foyatier; Leda 
and the Swan, by Seurre; Apollo, by Duret; Cupid riding a 
Swan, by Jacquol, etc. This gallery was formed by the present 
king before 1830. The visitor will retrace his steps to the Salle 
des Batailles, which gives access to the Salle de Reception and 
the adjoining Salle des Aides de Cam,p. These rooms contain 
some excellent paintings by the best modern French artists, as 
well as some older portraits of the royal family. There also, as 
well as in the adjoining suite looking into,the second court, 


478 FIRST ARRONDISSEMENT. 

will be noticed some remarkable pictures representing events 
of the King’s life, from the period when lie taught geography 
in a school in Switzerland, to his return to Paris at the resto¬ 
ration; and portraits of the Princess Clementine, of Cardinals 
Richelieu and Mazarin, by Philip de Champagne, and of Cinq 
Mars, by Le Nain. From the Salle de Reception a suite, called 
Appartements de Madame, opens into the western wing of the 
first court; among them is the dressing-room, filled with pic¬ 
tures, and beyond it the study, containing a fine collection of 
family portraits. Further on are the royal bed-room, the li¬ 
brary, and the council-chamber, not shown to strangers, with¬ 
out a special ticket, (1) which, however, is never refused: it 
will not admit the visitor on Sunday. The ante-Chamber of the 
state apartments is a large saloon on the south side of the se¬ 
cond court, and leads to a suite occupying the eastern wing of 
the same court. Of these the Salle de Societe is an elegant 
room, lighted by four windows, and leading into the Galerie 
Dorde. The stranger will leave by passing through the con¬ 
tiguous ante-chamber, and descending the principal staircase, 
the designs for which were furnished by Desorgues; it rises 
under a lofty dome, and, branching off into two flights, is pro¬ 
tected by a balustrade and railing in carved iron, of beautiful 
workmanship, by Corbin. It descends into the principal vesti¬ 
bule, from which the visitor emerges under the archway of the 
central building. The palace is not now inhabited by the royal 
family, but serves for the accommodation of foreign princes 
during their stay in Paris. The interior of this palace may 
usually be seen on Sundays from 1 till 4, on presenting passports. 

The library of the Palais Royal, though not public, deserves 
to be particularly mentioned. It occupies the entresol and first 
floor of the wing pertaining to the Galerie de Nemours, and is 
a kind of depot for works destined to be placed in the private 
libraries of the king. The most precious curiosity it contains 
is a vast collection of engravings, at present filling 122 colossal 
folios, classified in chronological order, and containing portraits 
of all the most celebrated personages who have figured in the 
history of Europe, from Pharamond down to our days. The 
number of engravings at present amounts to 600,000, and the 
index is comprised in six thick folios. The first seven or eight 
volumes were filled by Louis Philippe’s own hands, who used to 
work at it three hours a-day, when Duke of Orleans, and it is 
still continued under his own direction. A personal introduction 
to M. Brenot, the librarian, is the best means of obtaining a 
view of this admirable collection. The entrance to the library 
is in the principal court to the left. 

(l) To be had at the Intendance de la Liste Civile, 9 , Place Venddme. 


PALAIS ROYAL. 479 

Al 3, rue de Valois, is the Queen’s private library. 

In front of the Palais Royal is a large open space, called the 
Place du Palais Royal. On the southern side of it is the Chd - 
lean d’Eau, or reservoir of water for supplying the fountains 
in the neighbourhood, which was erected in 1719, by deGotte. 
Its front, 120 feet in length, consists of a central compartment, 
containing the fountain, crowned with a pediment that rests 
on 4 Doric columns; the remaining front on either side being 
adorned with pilasters of the same order; a low balustrade 
runs along the summit. Both columns and pilasters are adorned 
with bossages. The statues are by Coustou; it bears the fol¬ 
lowing inscription: Quantos effundit in usus. 

In the rue St. Thomas du Louvre, leading from this place to 
that of the Carrousel, formerly stood the celebrated Hotel de 
Longueville, the residence of the Dukes de Longueville and 
Elboeuf, whence emanated the intrigues of the Fronde, during 
the minority of Louis XIV., against Cardinal Mazarin. A part 
of it is now occupied by the king’s stables, which are entered 
by a large arch, bearing the date 1779; they contain stalls for 
ICO horses, and are worthy of inspection. They may be visited 
any day from 10 to 4, by application at the porter’s lodge. 

Al the corner of the rues St. Honore and de Rohan, are the 
houses where some soldiers of the Garde Royale made a de¬ 
sperate resistance iii the revolution of 1830. They expected no 
quarter, and therefore defended themselves till nearly all were 
killed. Marks of bullets may still be seen on the facade of the 
Palais Royal, and on some of the neighbouring houses. 

The Fontaine du Diable is situated at the corner of the rues 
de l’Cchelle and of St. Louis St. Honore; the origin of its name 
is unknown. It was rebuilt in 1789, and consists of an obelisk 
on a pedestal, with Tritons supporting a galley. Near the 
junction of the rue St. Nicaise and the rue de Rivoli, the “ in¬ 
fernal machine” intended to destroy Napoleon exploded, as he 
was passing to the opera-house, (1) on 24th December 1800. 

The visitor will follow the rue de Rivoli, which is built on 
the site of the convent des Feuillans, and the Manege so cele¬ 
brated in the Revolution. With a view to encourage the build¬ 
ing of a handsome and uniform street opposite the Tuileries, 
all the houses, built in conformity to a plan furnished by the 
government, were freed from taxes for 30 years. They are 
among the most commodious in Paris, and almost entirely oc¬ 
cupied by foreigners or as public hotels. At No. 42, Meurice’s 
Hotel, is an establishment almost as well known as the rue de 
Rivoli itself. Visitors will always find there the best accommo- 

(l) The French opera was at that time located in the centre of the 
space now occupied by the Place Richelieu, in the street of that name, 


480 FIRST ARRONDISSEMENT. 


dation, and are sure of not being imposed on. In turning into 
the rue de Casliglione, the visitor will perceive the 
Place Vend6me.— 'This place, formed upon the site of an hotel 
belonging to the Duke deVendome, illegitimate son of Henry IV. 
and Gabrielle d’Eslrees, was originally begun by Louis XIV., 
who, at the suggestion of Louvois, in 1685, purchased and 
levelled the hotel, intending to erect, round a public place, 
edifices for the Royal Library, the Mint, the extraordinary 
Ambassadors, etc. On the death of Louvois the execution of 
this project was abandoned, and the property some years after 
was ceded to the City of Paris, with a stipulation to erect a 
place upon the site. Mansard, who furnished the first plans to 
Louvois, was charged with the preparation of the second; and 
the buildings, as they now stand, were begun, according to his 
designs, in 1699, and finished by the financier Law. The form 
of the place is an elongated octagon, the four smaller sides 
being merely the angles cut off, and bearing no proportion to 
the others, which measure respectively 420 and 450 feet. Two 
wide streets forming the only entrances to it, the rue de la 
Paix (l) and the rue de Castiglione, equisect its northern and 
southern sides. The buildings surrounding it are uniform, 
consisting ot a rustic basement surmounted by upper stories 
ornamented with Corinthian pilasters, and high roofs pierced 
with lucarne windows. The middle of each side presents a pro¬ 
jecting part crowned with a pediment, which is supported by 
Corinthian columns. This place was first called the Place des 
Conquetes, then the Place Louis le Grand, and afterwards the 
Place \ endome. In the middle formerly stood a colossal eques¬ 
trian statue of Louis XIV., in bronze, by Girardin and Keller 
erected in 1669, but demolished on the 10th of August, 1792 : 
the bronze figures that ornamented its base were saved, and 
are still to be seen in the Muse'e de la Sculpture Moderne .’ The 
mutilated pedestal remained till 1806, when it was replaced by 
the triumphal pillar, erected by Napoleon, to commemorate the 
success of his arms in the German campaign of 1805 This co¬ 
lumn is an imitation of the pillar of Trajan at Rome,* of which 
it preserves the proportions on a scale larger by one twelfth 
Its total elevation is 135 feet, and the diameter of the shaft is 
12 feet. The pedestal is 21 feet in height, and from 17 to 20 in 
bieadth. The pedestal and shaft are of stone, covered with 


(l) On the site of the rue de la Paix, originally rue Napoleon, stood the 
vast and massive buildings of the Convent of the Capucines, which were 
in great part destroyed at the Revolution. In 1806 the street was formed 
through the body of the convent, leaving only two wings standing, one 

of which is now the Timbre Royal, and the other, opposite, the barracks 
of a company of Sapeurs-Pompiers, * arracks 










PLACE VENDOME. -J81 

bas-reliefs, representing victories of the French army in bronze 
made from 1200 pieces of brass cannon taken from the Russians 
and Austrians. The metal employed in this monument weighs 
about 300,000pounds. The bas-reliefs ofthe pedestal represent 
the uniforms, armour, and weapons of the conquered troops 
Above the pedestal are garlands of oak, supported at the four 
angles by eagles, each weighing 600 pounds. The double door 
ol massive bronze, is decorated with crowns of oak, surmounted 
by an eagle of the highest finish; above is a bas-relief, repre¬ 
senting two figures oi Fame, supporting a tablet, upon which 
is the lollowing inscription : 

Neap°lio Imp. Aug. Monumentum belli Germanici, Anno MDCCCV. 
Tnmeslri spalio, duclu suo, profligati, ex serecaplo, Gloria; exercilus 
maximi dicavit. 

The bas-reliefs of the shaft pursue a spiral direction to the 
capital, and display, in chronological order, the principal 
actions, from the departure of the troops from Boulogne to the 
battle of Austerlilz. The figures are three feet high; their 
number is said to be 2,000, and the length of the scroll 840 feet; 
a spiral thread accompanying it divides the lines, and bears 
inscriptions of the actions which they represent. The designs 
were lurnished by Bergeret, and executed by 31 sculptors, one 
ot whom was a lady named Charpentier. Above the capital is 
a gallery, which is approached by a winding staircase of 
17G steps. Upon the capital is this inscription : 

Monument eleve a la gloire de la grande armee, par Napoleon le Grand, 
Commence le xxv aodt 1806, lermine le xv aotlt 1810, 

Sous la direction 

dc D. V. Denon, MM. J. B. Lepere et L. Gondoin, architectes. 

The capital is surmounted by an acroterium, upon which was 
originally placed a statue of Napoleon as Emperor. This was 
melted down in 1814 to form part of the horse of Henry IV., 
now on the Pont Neuf, and was during the Restoration replaced 
by a fleur-de-lis and a flag-staff; but on the 1st of May 1833, 
the present statue of Napoleon covered with crape was placed 
on the summit, the ceremonial of its inauguration taking place 
on 28th July following, in presence of the King, the royal fa¬ 
mily, the ministers and municipal functionaries. It is 11 feet 
high, habited in the military costume of the emperor, and was 
modelled by Seurre. This sumptuous monument stands upon a 
plinth of polished granite, surrounded by an iron railing; and 
trom its size and position produces a fine effect, when seen 
from the Boulevard or the gardens of the Tuileries, although, 
on account of the imperfect manner in which the bronze was 
mixed, its colour is considered defective. The architects Gon- 

10 



482 FIRST arrondissement. 

doin and Lepere, under the direction of the celebrated l)enon, 
raised the column, and the total cost was 1,500,000 francs. 
The view of Paris and the environs from the gallery is most 
interesting; and permission to ascend it may be obtained from 
the guardian, a soldier of Napoleon’s, who expects a small 
gratuity, and furnishes the visitor with a lantern, which, from 
the total darkness of the interior, is almost indispensable. The 
hours are from 10 to 6 in summer, and 1 to 4 in winter. 

On leaving the Place Vendome, and returning into the rue 
St. Honore, the visitor will find 

The Fontaine des Capucins, at the corner of the rue Casti- 
glione, erected in 1671, and rebuilt in 1718. It is only remark¬ 
able for the inscription it bears, composed by Santeuil : 

lot loca sacra inter, pura est quae labitur unda; 

Hanc non impuro, quisquis es, ore bibas. 

in the immediate neighbourhood of this spot formerly stood six 
convents, including those of the Feuillans and the Jacobins. 

Eglise de l’Assomption, 369, rue St. Honore.—This church 
formerly belonged to a society of nuns, called Les Dames de 
VAssomption, and was the chapel of their convent; the remains 
of which, converted into barracks, may still he seen behind 
this edifice. It was begun in 1670, after the designs of Errard 
and finished in 1676. In 1802 it became the parish church of 
the 1st arrondissement, to supply the place of the Eglise dela 
Madeleine de la Ville l’fiveque, demolished at the Revolution 
a precedence which it retained till the completion of the new 
church ot the Madeleine. The edifice is circular, surmounted 
by a dome 62 feet in diameter, with a lantern supported by in¬ 
verted consoles, and a gilt cross. The cornice and entablature 
are not bold enough for the size of the dome, and spoil the effect 
which it would otherwise produce. The portico is composed 
of eight Corinthian columns. The interior of the dome is painted 
in fresco, by Lafosse, and is ornamented with roses in octa¬ 
gonal compartments. On the south side is the ehapelle des 
fonts : over its entrance is a good picture by Sauvee repre¬ 
senting the Birth of the Virgin. It also contains a valuable 
painting of St. Jerome. A chapel, dedicated to St. Hyacinth 
was erected in 1822 for the use of catechists. It is now inter- 
dicted, and the church itself is become a succursale of the 
Madeleine, for giving religious instruction to children. 

The rue Neuve du Luxembourg leads to the 
H6tel des Finances, 48, rue de Rivoli.—This vast building 
occupies a space of ground comprised between the rues de Ri¬ 
voli, de Casliglione, du Mont Thabor, and Neuve du Luxem¬ 
bourg. The fronts in the two former streets are uniform with 









PLACE DE LA CONCORDE. /|83 

the other houses, being four stories high, with arcades, form¬ 
ing a covered promenade. The building comprises several 
courts, around which are ranged the offices connected with 
the financial administration of the kingdom. The whole is well 
arranged, and the apartments of the minister are very splendid. 

A little further on, at the corner of the rue St. Florentin, is 
a large and handsome mansion, formerly the residence of Prince 
Talleyrand, and purchased, after his death, by Baron Roth¬ 
schild. Before the Revolution it was the hotel of the Duchess 
de l lnfantado. Alexander, Emperor of Russia, occupied it in 
April, 1814. It is now let out to various occupants. 

The visitor here enters 

The Place de la Concorde, or de Louis XV., which, till the 
reign of Louis XV., was a vast, unoccupied, irregular space, 
lying between the garden of the Tuileries and the Champs Ely- 
sees, and a blemish to the beauty of both. Alter the peace of 
Aix-la-Chapelle, the municipal authorities determining to 
erect a statue in honour of Louis XV., the king, at their re¬ 
quest, appropriated the vacant space above-mentioned, upon 
which the Place Louis XV. was commenced in 1763, after the 
designs of Gabriel, but was not finished till 1772. According to 
the original plan, it was of an octagonal form, defined by fosses, 
750 feet from north to south, and 528 feet from east to west. 
The fosses were surrounded by balustrades, and terminated by 
eight pavilions, left however unfinished. At a subsequent pe¬ 
riod (1794), two excellent groups in marble, by Coustou ju¬ 
nior, each representing a restive horse checked by his attendant, 
were brought from Marly, and placed, where they now stand, 
on lofty pedestals, next the Champs Elysees. They correspond 
to groups, by Coysevox, at the western entrance of the garden 
of the Tuileries, but excel them in execution. In the middle 
stood a bronze equestrian statue of Louis XV., by Bouchardon. 
The king was attired in a Roman costume, and at the four angles 
of the pedestal were figures in marble representing Peace, 
Prudence, Justice, and Strength. (1) The statue was destroyed 
by the populace on 12th August 1792, and a large plaster figure 
of Liberty was placed on the pedestal, in front of which was 
erected the guillotine, and the place was called Place de la Re¬ 
volution. By a decree in 1800 it assumed the name of Place de 
la Concorde; both figure and pedestal were removed, and a model 
of a column was erected in wood covered with painted canvas. 
Emblems of all the Departments surrounded the base with 

(0 The luxury and dissolute habits of the court at that time offended 
the good citizens of Paris, and the following pasquinade was written on it ; 

O la belle statue ! 6 le beau pi^destal! 

I-es vertus sont a pied , le vice est a cheval. 


first arrondissement. 

hands joined. The completion of this was prevented bv the 
wars of the Empire. In 1814 the name “Place Louis XV ” was 
restored. On 10th January, 1816, Louis XVIII. issued an ordon- 
nance for re-erecting a statue of Louis XV. After the accession 
Charles X., it was resolved that the statue of Louis XV 
should be erected in the centre of the Rond Point of the Champs 
Elysees and that of Louis XVI. in the Place Louis XV. the 
name of which from that period was to he changed to Place 
Louis 21 1. The revolution of 1830 interfered with the execu- 

tiTnsac 1 ^Project, and the place remained in a neglected state 
ti l836, when the works for its final completion were begun. 
The whole place has been levelled, no greater elevation re¬ 
maining than is necessary for carrying off the water. The wide 
spaces between the lines of road that cross the place, border¬ 
ing each fosse have been laid down in compartments ofSevssel 

n S prl ia fT‘ T i he f0SSeS arelaid out in gardens, and at thecor- 
neis of the place are crossed by bridges, placed diagonally. 

On the large pedestals of the parapets are twenty handsome 
rostral columns, hearing lamps, and surmounted by gilt globes 

Th a : riase h r ads f the p,aceare fwly ornamentei 
lamp-posts. The eight pavilions, now completed, are sur¬ 
mounted with allegorical figures of the chief provincial cities 

r/iin 1 Slr n bUrS ’ ^ Pradier; Bordeaux and Nantes by 
CaHiouet; Marseilles and Brest, by Cortot; Rouen and Lyons 

y Pelitot. The sides of the pavilions bear oval medallions' 
mcrusled with marbles, and surrounded by richly-sculptured 
wreaths. In the middle of the place is the Y P 

is l?nfi ° F L i UX i 0 - R i—T hiS ma S nificent relic of ancient Egypt 
?J! e , oflw ; obelisks that stood in front of the great temple 

of Thebes, the modern Luxor, where they were erected 1550 
years before Christ, by Rhamses III., of the 18th Egyptian dv 

m™li lh ,terkn0wnin history as Ule great Sesoslris. These two 
monoliths were given by Mehemet Alt, Viceroy of Egypt to 

he Trench government, together with Cleopatra’s Needle near 
Alexandra, m consideration of the advantages conferred bv 
France on Egypt in aiding to form the modern arsenal and 
«ava establishment of Alexandria. The negoliaUons to 'this 
* ele conducted by Baron Taylor, who was sent to Egypt 

felching awa'vTli'es'e " a’ "’ iS |)urpose -W The difficulties of 
etchm & away these ponderous masses were exceedingly -reat 

both on account of their distance from the Nile and of [he few 

expert workmen to he found in Egypt for executing the re 

quisite operations. A long flat-bottomed vessel was expresslv 

constructed at Toulon, in 1830, and entrusted to the command 

of M. Vermnac de St. Maur, while the engineering part of tl e 

(l) The second obelisk and Cleopatra’s Needle still remain in Egypt. 


OBELISK OF LUXOR. 4 85 

task was committed to M. Le Bas. This vessel arrived at Luxor 
Jul Y t‘>, 1831, and M. Le Bas, acting on the previous suggestions 
of M. Champollion, selected the smaller of the two obelisks as 
the lirst to be removed. Several Arab dwellings built against 
the obelisk, and others that lay on the line of its intended route 
to the river side, were purchased and pulled down; a lon- 
road to the Nile had to be made; the obelisk had to be encased 
in wood, carefully lowered, and drawn by Arabs, under the 
direction of M. Le Bas, amidst the ravages of the cholera that 
broke out, with scanty means of transport, and under the 
scorching sun of Egypt. These operations occupied 800 men 
for three months. Part of the vessel had to be sawn off verti¬ 
cally, to receive the monolith; it then descended the Nile, 
passed the bar below Rosetta with the greatest difficulty, and, 
being towed by a steamer, reached Cherbourg on the 12th 
August, 1833, and Paris on the 23d December in the same year. 
The foundations, etc., were then commenced, and on 16th 
August, 1836, it was drawn up an inclined plane, built in solid 
masonry to a level with the top of the pedestal. The opera¬ 
tions for raising it to its vertical position by an ingenious com¬ 
bination of mechanical power, directed by M. Le Bas, and 
worked by sailors, artillerymen, and masons, commenced by 
attaching the ponderous mass, sheathed in a strong frame-work 
of timber, to a chevalet of ten spars, strongly cramped together, 
which being inclined over the obelisk, and worked vertically 
by capstans and cables, drew the mass gradually after it till it 
attained its perpendicular position. This operation, so skilfully 
combined that not the slightest accident occurred, look place 
on the 25th October, 1836, in the presence of the king, the 
royal family, all the public functionaries, and about 150,000 
persons. A box of cedar, containing medals struck in comme¬ 
moration of the occasion, was placed under the obelisk, which 
is formed of the finest red syenite, and covered on each face 
with three lines of hieroglyphic inscriptions commemorative 
of Sesoslris; the middle lines being the most deeply cut and 
most carefully finished. The number of characters is 1,600. A 
flaw which it had when first cut from the quarry extends to 
one-third of its height, but is not perceptible from the ground. 
The Egyptians remedied this by inserting strong wooden mor¬ 
tices under the inner surfaces. The apex has been left in the 
state, slightly broken, in which it was when found in Egypt- 
The clear height of this single stone is 72 ft. 3 inches; its great¬ 
est width at the base 7 ft. 6 inches; at the top, 5 ft. 4 inches; 
its weight 500,000 pounds. (1) The plinth on which it stands is 

(l) The obelisk of the Vatican at Rome weighs 900,000 lb. 


4 86 FIRST ARRONDISSEMENT. 

a single block of grey granite, from the quarries of Laber, in 
Brittany, weighing 240,000 pounds, the dimensions of which 
are 15 feet, by 9 feet square at the bottom, and 8 at the top; 
while the live blocks of similar stone, of which the pedestal is 
formed, are each 12 feet by 5 feet and 3 feet. The total height 
of the plinth and pedestal is 27 feet. (1) On the northern face 
of the pedestal are engraven gilt sections of the mechanical 
powers used at Luxor in removing and embarking the mono¬ 
lith; on the southern are those employed in Paris. On the 
eastern side is the following inscription : 

Ludovicus Philippus I., Francorum Rex , ut antiquissimum artis 
iEgyptiacae opus, idemque recentis gloria} ad Nilum armis partae insigne 
nnonumenlum Franciae ab ipsa ASgyplo donatum posleritale prorogarel, 
obeliscum. Die xxv Aug. A. MDCCCXXXII. Thebis Hecatompylis avec- 
lum naviq. ad id constructa inira menses xiii. in Gallia perductum eri- 
gendum curavit. D. xxv. Oclob. A. MDCCCXXXVI. Anno reg. septimo. 

On the western side is the following inscription: 

En presence du Roi Louis-Philippe I er , cet obelisque, transports de 
Louqsor en France, a ete dresse sur ce piedestal par M. Le Bas, inge- 
nieur, aux app laudissements d’un peuple immense, le xxv. octobre 
MDCCGXXXYI. 

The entire cost of removing the obelisk from Thebes and erect¬ 
ing it where it now stands was about two millions of francs. 

This venerable monument, surrounded by an iron railing, 
with gilt spear-heads, is situated in the centre of the square, 
on an elliptical plateau, the foci of which are occupied by 
The two Fountains of the Place de la Concorde, dedicated, 
one to Maritime, the other to Fluvial, Navigation. They consist 
each of a circular basin, 50 feet in diameter, out of which rise 
two other smaller basins, the upper and smaller one being in¬ 
verted; their diameters are 12 and 20 feel respectively.'The 
middle basin is supported by a cylindrical shall, ornamented 
with foliage, standing on a hexagonal base. Six figures nine * 
feet in height are seated around it, with their feet on the 
prows of vessels, and separated from each other by spouting 
dolphins. Six larger dolphins, held by as many Tritons and 
Nereids, sporting in the large and highly ornamented basin 
below, spout water into the second one. The shaft of the in¬ 
verted basin is surrounded by three upright figures of winged 
children, standing on inverted shells, with swans by their sides 
spouting water. In the Maritime fountain, the figures supportin'* 
the second basin represent the Ocean and Mediterranean, by 

(l) For a full description of this monument, the reader is referred to 
the “Notice Hislorique, Descriptive, et Archdologique sur l’Obelisque 
de Luxor. ” ’ 





PLACE DE LA CONCORDE. 187 

Debay; the Genii of the Common and the Pearl Fisheries, by 
Desbceufs; with those of the Coral and Shell Fisheries, by Valois. 
The figures of the upper basin, representing the Genii of Astro¬ 
nomy, Commerce, and Maritime Navigation, are by Brian. In 
the Fluvial fountain, the lower figures are the Rhine and the 
Rhone, by Jeether ; the Genii of Flowers and Fruits, by Lanno; 
of the Vintage and the Harvest, by Husson. The upper figures, 
by Feucheres, are the Genii of Agriculture, Manufactures, and 
Fluvial Navigation. The Tritons and Nereids are by Moine, 
Elschouet, and Parfait. The lower basins, which are rather 
too small, are of polished stone, and the remainder of each 
fountain is in iron, bronzed. The water of these fountains 
comes from the Canal de l’Ourcq. (1) 

Instead of forming an interruption between the Tuileries and 
the Champs Elysees, the Place de la Concorde seems to give 
continuity to the whole. The terraces of the garden of the 
Tuileries bound it on the east, and the Champs Elysees on the 
west. On the north are seen two magnificent edifices, between 
which the rue Royale opens a view of the Madeleine; and to 
the south are the Pont Louis XVI., or de la Concorde, and the 
Chamber of Deputies. Along the upper banks of the Seine is a 
line of noble hotels, and lowering behind the Chamber of De¬ 
puties is seen the gilded dome of the lnvalides. The two edifices 
on the north side are each 288 feet in length; and the rue 
Royale, which separates them, is 90 feet wide. The fronts are 
terminated by projecting pavilions, between which, on the 
ground-floor, is a gallery formed by arcades, which constitute 
a rusticated basement. From this basement rise 12 Corinthian 
columns, surmounted by an entablature and a baluslrade. The 
basement of each pavilion supports four columns of the same 
order, crowned by a pediment having a trophy on each side. 
At the first story is a second gallery behind the columns. The 
tympans of the pediments are adorned with bas-reliefs. These 
structures were erected by Potain, after the designs of Gabriel; 
and the aim of the architect appears to have been to rival the 
production of Perrault in the colonnade of the Louvre. 1 he 
building nearest to the garden of the Tuileries was formerly 
occupied as the Garde-Menble de la Couronne, and contained 
an immense number of valuable and curious objects. Under 
Napoleon, it was appropriated to the residence and offices of 
the Minister of Marine and Colonies, who still inhabits it. The 
building on the opposite side of the rue Royale is inhabited by 
private families. The events that have rendered the Place de la 

(l) The last embellishments of the Place de la Concorde cost the City 
of Paris nearly 900,ooo fr. 


* 88 FIRST ARRONDTSSEMENT. 

Concorde famous are so identified with it, that we shall men¬ 
tion the principal ones in chronological order:— 

May 30, 1770 . During the rejoicings in honour of the marriage of 
Louis XVI., a fatal accident was caused, after a discharge of fireworks, 
hy the people taking a panic and rushing towards the rue P.oyale, where 
the ground had been broken up for building, trampling todealh 1200 per¬ 
sons, besides seriously injuring about 2000 others,—an ominous com¬ 
mencement of nuptial bonds, soon to he cruelly severed by the guillo¬ 
tine! This tragical accident was mainly caused by the imprudence of 
the police , in permitting carriages to drive about among the crowd. 

July 12. 1789 . — An accidental collision between Prince de Lam- 
besc s regiment and the people became the signal for the destruction 
of the Bastille. 

Jan. 21, 1793 .— Louis XVI. suffered death on this Place, fi) where the 
lollowmgpersons also subsequently perished by the guillotine .—July 17 
Charlotte Corday ; Oct. 2, Brissot and 29 of his colleagues; Oct. 16 Ma- 
r.e Antometie consort of Louis XVI.; Xov. 14, Louis Philippe Joseph 
Lvalue, Duke of Orleans; March 24 , 1794 , the Heberlisls, Moralists, and 
urieamsts; April 8, the Dantonists, including Danlon, Camille Desmou¬ 
lins, etc.; April 16, the Atheists, composed of Chaumelle, Anacharsis 
, ?KnJ.- e wives of Camille Desmoulins, of Hebert, etc.; May 12, Eliza¬ 
beth Philippine Marie Helene of France, sister of Louis XVI.; July 28 
Robespierre and his brother, Dumas, St. Just, and Couthon, members 
ot the Committee of Public Safety, with several others ; July 29 , seventy 
members of the Commune of Paris ; July 30, twelve other members of 
the Commune. From Jan. 21, 1793 , to May 3 , 1795 , more than 2800 per¬ 
sons were executed here. 1 

»fe*3MdTi , n~ Th * Russians ' Pr “ ssi »» s . and Austrians were re- 
viewed, and Te Deum was sung at an altar on this Place. 

The Champs £lysees were formerly covered with small 

de ached houses and gardens, meadows, and tilled land. In 

1616, the queen mother, Marie de Medicis, having purchased 

fnrm°th he ^ Und ’ caused four rows of trees to be planted so as to 

mtes l Thk a GyS> Wl !, ICh WGre Cl0sed atlhe extr emities by iron 
gates. This promenade, intended exclusively for that princess 

c lTi*" S ', le r Shed 10 <irive "“‘- assumed the name 
ot tours la Reme, which it still retains. It extends alomr the 

, ba ° ks ° f f l, ‘ e Seine > f rom which it is separated by the high road 
eadmg to A ersailles. On the other side it was divided by ditches 
om a plain with which a communication was formed by a 

vdla-e d 0 uRonle Se ' ! 67 °’ a"* p f lain ’ which extended to the 
village du Roule, was by order of Colbert planted with trees 

forming several walks interspersed with grass plats. The new 

promenade was at first called le Grand Cours, to distinguish U 

(0 The scaffold for the execution of Louis XVI. was erected midwiv 
between the centre of (he Place and the horses of Marly that for m/ 

the Tuiteries?’ midWay betWeen lhe Centre of the p,ace and the gate of 


CHAMPS ELYSEES. 189 

from the Cours la Heine; but a few years after it was named 
Avenue des Champs Elysees. Madame de Pompadour, having 
become proprietor of the hotel now called the Palais de l’Ely- 
see Bourbon, complained to the Marquis de Marigny, superin- 
tendant of the royal edifices, that the trees intercepted her 
view of the road ; in consequence of which Colbert’s plantation 
was cut down. Madame de Pompadour dying in 1764, the ground 
was replanted in the same year; several alleys, circles, etc., 
were formed, and restaurants and cafes erected. At the same 
time, in order to render the point of view from the palace of 
the Tuileries more extensive, the ascent near the Barriere de 
1’Etoile was lowered, and the road reduced to its present gentle 
slope. From 1777 to 1780, the Champs Elysees was the fashion¬ 
able promenade, being the resort of the most beautiful and 
elegantly-attired ladies of the capital. A sequestered avenue in 
the neighbourhood was called Allee des Veuves, from its being 
tilled in the afternoon with carriages of rich widows, who 
sought in the open air a distraction from their grief. At that 
period no widow in deep mourning appeared in the public 
walks. (1) In 1814, a Cossack bivouac was established in the 
Champs Elysees; and, in 1815, the English encamped there. In 
1818, the walks of the Champs Elysees were improved, and 
young trees planted to replace those destroyed during the oc¬ 
cupation. At this time an opening was made which affords a 
fine view of the Hotel des Invalides from the high road. In the 
middle of the avenue is a round space called the Rond Point , 
occupied by a fountain, from which, as from a centre, several 
streets and avenues branch out in different directions. Of the 
latter, the Allee d’Antin leads to the Pont des Invalides, a sus¬ 
pension bridge, forming a communication between the Champs 
Elysees and the Esplanade des Invalides. A company Avas formed, 
some years ago, for building in the Champs Elysees, on the 
side towards the Seine, a new quarter, to be called Quartier 
de Francois I. The speculation proved to be a bad one, and 
the works, begun in 1823, have proceeded very slowly. Four 
yet unfinished streets open into a place called Place de Fran¬ 
cois in the centre of which was to be a chdteau d'eau or 
a fountain, ornamented with the statue of Francis I. At the 
corner of the Hue Bayard, opening into the Cours la Heine, is 
a house in which have been worked the decorations by Jean 
Goujon of the front of a country seat which Francis I. built at 
Morets, near Fontainebleau, in 1527, for his sister Margaret. 
Under the cornice appears the following inscription : 

(1) The Allee des Yeuves is no longer the sombre retreat of beauty in 
distress, being now enlivened by the vicinity of the Jardin Mabille , the 
gayest, though not most select, of all the evening promenades of Paris. 


^ ^ FIRST ARRONDISSEMENT. 

Qui scit frenare linguam, sensumque domare, 

Forlior est illo qui frangit viribus urbes. 

Inst. 1527 , et rest. 1826. 

The frieze over the ground floor is adorned with bacchanalian 
Das-rehefs, and with 7 medallions bearing the portraits of 
ouis XII., Anne de Bretagne, Francis II., Marguerite de Na¬ 
varre, Henri II., Diane de Poitiers, and Francis I. Numerous 
escutcheons adorn the other parts. The Champs Elysees are 
bounded on the north by the Faubourg St. Honore, on the south 
hy the Cours la Reine, on the east by the Place de la Concorde 
an* on the west by Chaillot and the Faubourg du Roule. Their 
length from the Place de la Concorde to the Barriere de I’Etoile 
at the opposite extremity, is about 1 -/, mile; their breadth at the 
eastern boundary is 373 yards, and at the western 700 yards. 

ley are divided by the Neuilly road, the axis of which is the 
same as that of the grand walk of the garden of the Tuileries. 
Ibis road, planted with trees, with wide walks on each side 
strelchesm a straight line to the barrier, and thence to the bridge 
of Neuilly. The public fetes take place in the Champs Elysees. 

P a 81 ! °/ 11 Wl V ch Iies t0 the ri S ht > 011 enl ering from the 
Place de la Concorde, is more particularly devoted to the pro- 

fnnl iad a !° n a ,e ,! eft are ° pen spaces used b Y Payers at bowls, 
foot and handball, etc. Nothing can present a more lively scene 

ban the Champs Elysees in the evening, during the summer 

season, particularly on Sundays. (1) At each side of the grand 

avenue are different shows, itinerant instrumental and vocal 

per ormers, etc. usual at fairs. On the southern side towards 

the river a handsome building has been erected for the exlii- 

?^° fc 7 Pa , n ° rail ? i A C J ieWS ’ and anolhei ‘ called the Georama. 

( ee Exhibitions. ) A handsome guard-house, surrounded by a 
strong iron railing , has been recently built. On the other side 
is the new and elegant Cirque National. (See Theatres. ) Nume- 

the tri e c Sa T| tC °‘ iee " Il0USeS l nd reslauranls are sprinkled among 
the trees. The mam avenue has been levelled, and several hand¬ 
some fountains added, at the expense of the City. A row of cast- 
iron lamp-posts extends the entire length as far as the triumphal 
arch de l’Eto.Ie, and the effect of such a line of light after"dark 

^^ q ? inqUenni u I exhibUion of thc P ro ducls of national industry 

otlbor^ r^° nlhS ’ 1S K e,lJ hl a tem P°rary building in the square 
of the Champs Elysees on the southern side. A jury is formed inImi, 

deparlment to decide on the articles to be admitted. The expense „f 
transport ,s defrayed by thc stale. A central jury in Paris, composed of 
persons d,St,n S u,shed by their knowledge. Is named by the MinisteJ of 
Commerce to estimate the merits of the several articles and ihlrf- 
upon its report distributes medals of gold silver or bronze fnr« ^ 8 
are considered entitled to that distinction ’ f0 ‘ SUch as 


CHAMPS ELYSEES. 494 

is peculiarly splendid. Commodious fool-pavements in bitu¬ 
men, 12 feet wide, have been laid down, at the cost of £8 000 
m the two great side-alleys, extending from the Place de la 
Concorde to the Barriere de l’Etoile, and which render this 
delightful spot, what it has never before been, a charming place 
tor pedestrian exercise not only during the fine weather but 
also m winter. Seals are placed under the trees and alon- the 
alleys, and the whole space is watered twice a-day. Leadin'- 
from the Bond Point to the Barrier some splendid mansions 
have lately been erected, among which we may particularise 
those ot the Count Lehon and Marquis de Lauriston. 

The annual Promenade de Longchamp, which takes place in 
the Champs Elyseesand IheBoisde Boulogne on the Wednesday 
Thursday, and Friday of Passion Week, originated in the follow¬ 
ing manner j—I n the Bois de Boulogne, an abhey called Abbaye 
de Longchamp , was founded in 1261, by Isabella of France sister 
of St. Louis, which attracted little notice till the middle’of the 
eighteenth century, when a melodious choir of nuns attracted 
the attention of amateurs. The church of the abbey was fre¬ 
quented, and in Passion Week it became the fashion for the 
haut ton to attend it in state. As the collections made were 
very considerable, and might be still further augmented, the 
principal singers of the Opera were invited to assist in chanting 
the lamentations and Tenebrse. This attraction however Gra¬ 
dually passed away, the church of Longchamp was deseided 
but the Parisians still flocked to the Bois de Boulogne, where 
the noblesse continued to display their costly attire and splendid 
equipages. The early scenes of the Revolution suspended for a 
while this annual pageant, until after the 18th Brumaire, when 
the promenade of Longchamp was resumed, notwithstanding 
the abbaye had disappeared. r lhe number of equipages is gene- 
ially very considerable; the carriages proceed in line up one 
side of the grande allee, and down the other, the centre being 
reserved for royal carriages, those of the ministers, foreign 
ambassadors, and other high personages. 

On leaving the Champs Clysees, at the extremity of the Cours 
la Reine and the Allee des Veuves, the visitor will find, at No. 4, 
Quai de Billy, the Pompe d feu de Chaillot, a building contain¬ 
ing a steam-engine by Watt, for supplying the fountains in 
different parts of the capital with water from the Seine. It was 
erected in 1778, by Messrs. Perier. The water is drawn from 
the midle of the river, and about 150,000 cubic feet are raised 
by it in 24 hours. 

A little further on, in the same direction, at Nos. 24—8, are 
large buildings, inscribed “ Subsistances Mililaires,” erected on 
the site of the royal manufactory of mosaic ornaments, now abo- 


492 


FIRST ARRONDISSEMENT. 


lished. They serve as a general bakehouse and magazine of 
provisions for the garrison of Paris. Here are employed bakers, 
who furnish bread for the soldiers, the average to each being V/ 2 \h. 

Beyond the buildings of Chaillol, on the hill side, opposite the 
Pont d’lena, are some alleys cut in an inclined direction and 
terraces. The elevated plain to which they lead, once a garden 
belonging to the Dames de Ste. Marie, was intended to be the 
plateau of a marble palace for the King of Rome. 

Returning from thence, the visilor will come to 
St. Pierre de Chaillot, 50, rue de Chaillot, 3rd district church 
of 1st arrondissement. The oldest part of this edifice is the 
choir, which is of the 15th century. It has five sides, and its 
vaulted ribs unite in a well-sculptured pendant. With the ex¬ 
ception of a good head of Christ, and two or three modern 
French paintings, this church contains nothing remarkable. 
Beyond this, near the Avenue de Neuilly, is the 
Institution de Sainte Perine, 99, rue de Chaillot.—This was 
an ancient monastery, called Abbaye de Ste. Perine, which 
was suppressed in 1790, and in 180G converted into an asylum 
by M. Duchaila, for persons of both sexes over GO years ofa o V 
of small income. The empress Josephine was a great bene¬ 
factress to it. The number is limited to 180, and the vacancies 
by removal or death average 50 annually. Admission is either 
on a single specific payment, or the annual sum of GOO fr. (1) 
The Chapel Marroeuf (Church of England), established in 1824 
formerly in the rue de Chaillot, is now transferred to a new 
appropriate building, at 10 bis, Avenue Marbceuf, near the 
upper end of the Champs Elysees. Its front is a chaste speci¬ 
men of he pointed style ; a flight of steps gives access to the 
principal entrance, which is separated from the lateral ones 
by two buttresses on each side terminating at the gable. The 
interior consists of a vaulted nave, around which runs an oaken 
gallery resting upon iron pillars. The vault is pierced with 
skyl.ghls, and every thing is calculated to insure the comfort 

anJht Sf Tm CllaPe ' iS a " ended by a most numerous 
and highly respectable congregation. The hours of divine ser¬ 
vice are on Sundays at li in the morning, and 3 in the after- 

n °On ’ ?il d 7 1 h , Ursd ? ys a !! V The minister is Rev. R. Lovett. 
On the elevalmn to which the Champs Elysees lead is the 

Arc de Triomphe de l’Etoile.-TIic idea of this proud monu- 

(l) Recent inquiries instituted by the Academy of Sciences establish 
he s.ngular fact, that the mortality of (he inmates is greatest dl S 
the nrst four years of abode there; being the 1st year in the proportion 
0 4 10 m, and in .he «h in that of S lo .00 ,■ 'owing proba^iy^lhe 
state of iatigue and disease in which new comers arrive so that thpv 
Often do not profit soon enough by the quiet life they lead there. ^ 


ARC DE TRIOMPHE DE L’ETOILE. 493 

^! n !oM ri ^” ated wiUl Na P oleon > who decreed its erection on 
me 18th February, 1806. Messrs. Raymond and Chalgrin were 

larged to furnish the plans; the designs of the latter architect 
were selected in 1809. M. Chalgrin, however, only lived to 
carry his plans into execution as far as the cornice of the base 
ant tied in 1811. Much difficulty had been experienced in 
orming a proper foundation for so enormous a superstructure: 
't was laid 25 feet below the surface, in layers of stone, so 
placed that the joints of each layer were covered by the solid 
parts of the stones immediately above. The first stone was laid 
on the 15th August, 1S0G, and, it is curious to remark, without 
any accompanying ceremony. The workmen, it is said, had 
the lollowing inscription carved upon one of the stones 

L an 1806, le quinzieme Aodt, jour de I’anniversaire de la naissancede 
sa majesle Napoleon le Grand, celle pierre est la premiere qui a ete po- 
see. Le Ministrede Plnterieur, M. de Champagny. 

On the marriage of the Emperor with Maria Louisa, and her 
triumphal entry into the capital, there was an immense model 
in wood and canvas of this arch temporarily erected here and 
brilliantly illuminated. After 1811, M. Goust continued Chal¬ 
grin s plans as far as the spring of the great arch; but in 1814 
the works were entirely suspended, and the intention of aban¬ 
doning them altogether was entertained until, in 1823, after the 
campaign of the Duke d’AngouIeme in Spain, it was determined 
to finish the arch in honour of his victories, and Messrs. Huyot 
and Goust were charged with the completion of it. Other ar¬ 
rangements were subsequently made; a superintending com¬ 
mittee of four architects was appointed, and the edifice rose as 
high as the architrave of the entablature. In 1828, M. Huyot, 
who had resumed the sole direction of the works, finished the 
entablature, and the pointed vaulting of the interior that sup¬ 
ports the upper platform. After a short suspension of the 
works, occasioned by the events of 1830, the Government 
decided that the original destination of the monument should 
be preserved, and in 1832 M. Blouet was commissioned to com¬ 
plete it. The sculptures were at the same time commenced, 
and the labours of the architect and the artists were unremit¬ 
ting until the whole was completed in July 1836. (1) The total 
cost was 9,651,115 fr., or £386,044. The stone with which this 
monument is faced was brought from the quarries of Chateau- 
Landon, in the department of the Seine-et-Marne, and is the 
same as that used in the Madeleine. The monument consists 

(1) The topis to be surmounted by a group in bronze, representing 
France on an antique car, surrounded by the Genii of the nation. 

17 


4 94 - FIRST ARRONDISSEMfiNT. 

of a vast central arch, 90ft. in height by 45ft. in width, over 
which rises a bold entablature and an attic. There is also a 
transversal arch, 57ft. high and 25ft. wide; the total height of 
the structure is 152ft., its breadth and depth are 137ft. and GSft. 
respectively. The facades of the building are towards the 
Champs Elysees and Neuilly; the sides towards Passy and Roule. 
Each pier of the principal fronts is ornamented with a project¬ 
ing pedestal, supporting groups of figures, wrought on the sur¬ 
face of the monument. The impost of the main arch runs in a 
bold cornice round the four sides; the spaces between which 
and the frieze of the general entablature contain compartments 
filled with alti-rilievi. The frieze is entirely occupied with 
sculpture, and the cornice above, which is of unusual boldness, 
presents at intervals lions’ heads projecting. The attic, also, 
crowned by a cornice and plinth ornamented with masks, is 
divided into compartments by pilasters, each of which bears a 
laurelled sword, while the compartments have a circular shield 
in the centres, inscribed with the name of some great victory. 
The vaults of all the arches are cut into llorid compartments 
with roses, and the spandrils are adorned with colossal allego¬ 
rical figures. The internal sides of all the piers are inscribed 
with the names of victories; under the transversal arches with 
the names of generals. The northern pier of the eastern prin¬ 
cipal face bears on its pedestal a group representing the de¬ 
parture of the army in 1792. The Genius of War summons the 
nation to arms, and warriors of different ages, and in different 
costumes, are arming and hastening to battle. The dimensions 
of this and of all the corresponding groups are in total height 
36ft., and each figure 18ft. This group is the work of M. Rude, 
and is the most striking as well as the best executed of the four. 
The southern pier of the same front has the triumph of 1810, 
represented by Victory crowning Napoleon. Fame surmounts 
the whole, and History records his deeds; vanquished towns 
are at his feet. This is by M. Cortot, and is justly admired for 
the dignity of the composition. On the western front, the group 
of the southern pier represents the resistance of the French 
nation to the invading armies in 1814; a young man is seen 
defending his wife, his children, and his father; a warrior be¬ 
hind him is falling slain from his horse, and the Genius of the 
Future flits over and encourages them to action. That on the 
northern pier is the peace of 1815: a warrior is seen sheathin 0- 
his sword; another, more aged, is taming a bull for purposes 
of agriculture, while a mother and children are seated at their 
feet, and Minerva, crowned with laurels, sheds over them her 
protecting influence. These two groups, by M. Etex, though 
very good, are by no means equal to those on the eastern 


ARC DE TRIOMPHE DE L’ETOILE. 495 

Side. (1) The most admired ornaments of this arch are ihe alti- 
rilievi of the compartments above the impost-corn" ew£ 
cons ltute an unrivalled series of modern historical sculpture 
A the other groups are in antique costumes, being allegorical 
These on the contrary, are valuable, as faithful represenla- 
1 ions of the uniforms of the time. The southern compartment 
' the eastern side represents the surrender of Mustapha Pacha 
at the battle of Aboukir, by M. Seurre, sen., and is tile most 
highly brushed of all the sculptures of the monument. The 
group of Turks is peculiarly excellent. The dimensions of these 
compartments give about Oft. to the height of the principal 
figures. The northern compartment of the same side is 1111% 
with a group of the death of Gen. Marceau, by M Lemaire • 
this is the least effective of the series. Above the arch and im¬ 
post-cornice of the northern side of the monument is a magni¬ 
ficent composition, the battle of Austerlilz, by M. Jecther. On 
the western front, the northern alto-rilievo is the taking of 
Alexandria, by M. Chaponniere. The figure of Kleber is a clief- 
d oeuvre. The other group is the passage of the bridge of Ar¬ 
eola, by M. Feuchere. On the southern side of the building 
the compartment answering to the battle of Austerlitz, is the 
battle of Jemmapes, by Maroclietti. The composition of this 
magnificent piece of sculpture is very fine : the animation of the 
various groups, and the admirable perspective that is observed 
constitute one of the most perfect performances of the chisel 
ever executed in trance. Behind General Dumouriez is a por¬ 
trait of the King, at that time Duke de Chartres. The figures of 
Fame in the spandrils of the main arch on each side are by 
M. Pradier. They are 13ft. in height. The frieze is occupied 
on the eastern, and on half of the northern and southern sides 
by the departure of the armies. The deputies of the nation’ 
grouped round the altar of the country, distribute flags to the 
troops. There are portraits of all the great characters of the 
epoch, 1700-2, included in this composition. The corresponding 
portions of the frieze on the other sides of the building repre¬ 
sent the return of the armies, who offer the fruit of their vic¬ 
tories to France regenerated. This long composition is the 
work of several artists—Messrs. Brim, Laitie, Jacquot, Cail- 
louette, Seurre, and Bude. The series of bucklers, thirty in 
number, inscribed each with a victory, on the attic above the 
entablature, begins with Valmy, and ends with Ligny. The 
spandrils of the transversal arches are covered with figures, 
representing the infantry and cavalry of the French armies, by 

(1) It will afford an idea of the general scale of remuneration given to 
the sculptors employed on this great monument, to know that M. Etex 
was paid HO ,000 fr. for these two groups. 


4 96 FIRST ARRONDISSEMENT. 

Messrs. Bra and Valois respectively; and, on their interior 
spandrils are the artillery and the marine, by Messrs. De Bay 
and Seurre, junior. Under the main arch are the names of 96 
victories. The allegorical groups on the other arches represent 
the conquest of the armies of the North, East, West, and 
South; the names of the Generals corresponding to them are 
placed beneath, numbering altogether 384. Winding staircases 
in the two eastern piers lead to several halls, the use of which 
is still uncertain; the last contains in one of the cross vaults 
the following inscription:— 

Ge monument, commence en 1806 , en l’honneur de la Grande Armee, 
long temps interrompu, continue en 1823 avec une dedicace nouvelle’ 
a ete acheve en 1836, par le roi Louis Philippe premier, qui l’a consa- 
cre a la gloire des Armees Francises. 

From the platform at the top one of the finest views of Paris 
and its environs may be seen. The total number of steps is 261. 
The two western piers contain pipes to carry off water, and a 
gas apparatus. Around the base is a circular area, enclosed 
with granite blocks and cable chains, and lighted with gas from 
bronze lamp-posts. The monument is open from morning till 
dusk. A few sous are given (but this is optional) by parties 
ascending to the top. 

Opposite the Arc de l’Etoile, is the Hippodrome , a kind of 
Astley’s; it is open only in the summer months. (See Theatres.) 

From the Arc de l’Etoile, the Avenue de Neuilly leads to the 
village of that name. Distant about half a mile on the left hand, 
is the Porte Maillot, one of the principal entrances to the Bois 
de Boulogne, (see Promenades,) and opposite to it, on the other 
side of the high road, in the Route de la Revolte, is the 

Chapel of St. Ferdinand, the scene of the melancholy death 
of his late Royal Highness the Duke of Orleans, on 13th July, 
1842. A brief notice of this sad event will not be deemed ir¬ 
relevant in this place. Tbe Prince left Paris in llie forenoon, 
in a light open carriage, with a postilion, intending to take 
leave of the royal family at Neuilly, and then proceed to the 
camp at St. Omer. As be approached the Porte Maillot, the 
horses took fright. The postilion seeming to lose his command 
ovei them, the Prince called out, “ are you master of your 
horses?” “Sir, I guide them,” was the reply. After a few 
minutes the Prince again said, “ I am afraid you cannot hold 
them.” The answer was, “ I cannot, Sir.” Instantly his Royal 
Highness endeavoured to get out of the carriage, but, his feet 
becoming entangled in his cloak, he was precipitated to the 
ground on his head, which w'as dreadfully fractured, and was 
conveyed to the house of M. Lecordier, a grocer, where at 


CHAPEL OF ST. FERDINAND. 197 

10 minutes past four o’clock of the same afternoon lie breathed 
his last, unconscious of the grief that surrounded him, and ap¬ 
parently without pain; and never did the hand of death strike 
in the bloom of health and youth and intellect a Prince more 
deservedly or more feelingly regretted. The royal family, with 
the exception of the Prince de Joinville, then at Naples, and 
the Queen of the Belgians, were witnesses of this heart-rend¬ 
ing scene. The house, with some adjoining property, being pur¬ 
chased by the crown, their Majesties gave directions to Messrs. 
Lefranc and Fontaine, architects, to erect on its site a chapel, 
dedicated to St. Ferdinand, which was begun on 21st August, 
1842, and consecrated on 11th July following by the Arch¬ 
bishop of Paris, in the presence of the royal family. The build¬ 
ing, 60 feet long by 20 in height, is of stone, surmounted by a 
cross, and is in the Lombard Gothic style, resembling an an¬ 
cient mausoleum. Opposite the entrance an altar to the Virgin 
stands on the exact spot where the Duke breathed his last, and 
over it a beautiful statue of the Virgin and Child. Beyond the 
altar, a Descent from the Cross, in marble, by Triquetti, has been 
placed since 1840. On the left is another altar, dedicated to 
St. Ferdinand, and corresponding to it on the right is a marble 
group representing the Prince on his death-bed, and kneeling 
at his head is an angel in fervent supplication, as if imploring 
the divine commiseration on the sufferer. The monogram MO 
reveals that this beautiful “ spirit ” was the work of his deceased 
sister, the Princess Marie, little conscious for whose tomb she 
was executing it! The remainder of the group is by Triquetti, 
after a drawing of M. Ary Scheffer. Underneath is a bas-relief 
representing France leaning over a funereal urn, deploring her 
great loss; the French flag is at her feet. Four circular win¬ 
dows corresponding to the sides of the cross represent respec¬ 
tively St. Raphael, Hope, Faith, and Charity, in stained glass. The 
remaining 14 pointed windows represent, in stained glass also, 
the patron saints of the different members of the Royal family, 
viz.: in front Ste. Amelia and St. Ferdinand ; St. Louis and St. Philip 
the Apostle; in the transept to the right Ste. Helen and St. Henry; 
in that to the left St. Rupert and St. Charles Borromeo; in the 
nave to the right St. Francis of Assise, Ste. Adela ide, and St. Ra¬ 
phael; to the left St. Anthony of Padua, St. Clement of Alexan¬ 
dria, and Ste. Rosalie. Descending a few steps behind the altar 
of the Virgin, the visitor will find himself in the very room in 
which the Prince died; it is the sacristy of the chapel. Low 
oaken presses and a confessional of the simplest construction, 
a chair and prayer-desk covered with black, and an ivory cru¬ 
cifix, form its only furniture. Opposite the door is a picture of 
the size of life, by M. Claude Jacquand, representing the depth 


FIRST ARRONDISSEMENT. 


198 

scene. To the right is the Duke stretched on a bed, his head 
supported by the physicians; his father is seated opposite, eyeing 
him with the stupor of grief. The Queen and Princess Clemen¬ 
tine, the Dukes of Aumale and Montpensier, Marshals Soult and 
Gerard, and the Cure of Mery, form an affecting group on the 
left. In front of the Chapel, hut detached from it, a small apart¬ 
ment has been arranged for the accommodation of the royal 
family, who frequently visit this mournful spot; it is hung 
with black. On the mantel-piece of one room is a dock in a 
black marble case, representing France mourning; the hands 
mark 10 minutes to 12, the hour at which the Prince fell. Near 
it is a broken bronze column, on which is engraved I3lh July, 
1842, with the initials F. P. 0. In the other room, also hung 
with mourning, is a marble urn surmounting a clock, which 
marks 10 minutes past 4, the hour at which the Prince ceased 
to exist. Foreigners are admitted, with passport, from 1 to 4 
every day, except Wednesday. 

On leaving this place, the visitor should turn into the Vieille 
Route de St. Germain, a few steps to his right, where he will 
find the new Eglise St. Ferdinand, finished in March 1847. The 
facade is mixed Gothic; a low tlight of steps leads to the porch, 
which is flanked by two fluted columns with Gothic Corinthian 
capitals, and surmounted by a square belfry ending in a spire. 
The interior consists of a nave with clerestory windows, and two 
aisles, each terminating in a circular chapel, and separated from 
the nave by arches resting on Doric pilasters. The choir is semi¬ 
circular. The walls are painted in the gaudy Byzantine style. 
The architect is M. Lequeux. 

The visitor will now cross the Barrier, and enter into the rue 
du Faubourg du Route. He will there find, at No. 59, the 

Chapelle de Beaujon, 4th district church of 1st arrondisse- 
ment, which was erected, in 1780, at the expense of Nicholas 
Beaujon, receiver-general of the finances, after the designs of 
Girardin, and dedicated to St. Nicholas : it is small, presenting 
nothing remarkable, and is but seldom used, except for the 
funeral service of those who die in the hospital. Behind it are 
the house and grounds formerly belonging to the founder, 
whose extensive properly was bequeathed almost entirely to 
the hospital named after him. The house, etc., after having 
been enjoyed by his legatees for 50 years, have lately, by the 
terms of the will, devolved to the same noble foundation. 

The Hopital Beaujon stands upon the opposite side of the 
street, at No. 54, and was founded, in 1784, for 24 orphans of 
the parish du Roule, 12 hoys and 12 girls, for whose support 
Nicholas Beaujon endowed it with 20,000 livres annually. By a 
decree of the Convention, this orphan asylum was converted 


PARC DE MONCEAUX. /J99 

hit° an hospital for the sick, and took the name of Hopilal du 
Roule. the council-general of hospitals restored its former 

J?" 1 ®; b " t 1 n i >t lls P rim ! tive destination. The different parts of 
the Hopilal Beaujon, after the designs of Girardin, are well dis¬ 
tributed, solid, and tastefully decorated. The original build¬ 
ing is 96 feet in length towards the street, by 144 in depth 
and consists of a ground floor, with three upper stories. Four 
pavilions have lately been added on the side of the Parc de Mon- 
ceaux, the whole being connected by galleries. This fine hos¬ 
pital, spacious and airily situated, contains 412 beds. The 
average anniial number of patients is 5100 ; the mortality 
l to9,i9. Physicians, Drs. Renaudain, Bouvier, Legroux and 
Landry: Surgeons, Messrs. Laugier and Robert. The patient’s are 
of the same class as those of the Hblel-Dieu, and are attended bv 
the Soeurs deSte. Marthe. 1 he public days of admission are Sun¬ 
days and 1 hurdays, from 2 till 4 ; but strangers may visit it every 
day on showing their passports, and an inspection of this remark¬ 
ably well-ordered establishment, certainly the most cheerful- 
looking, and probably the most salubrious, hospital in Paris 
will be highly gratifying to every friend of humanity. 

Behind this hospital is the Parc de Monceaux, 6, rue de Char¬ 
tres. In this park, planted in the English style, a palace was 
erected in 1778, by M. Carmontel, for the Duke of Orleans. The 
National Convention decreed that Monceaux should not be sold 
but preserved for various establishments of public utility. The 
Emperor on his accession presented it to the arch-chancellor 
Cambaceres, who unwilling to continue the expense of keeping 
it up, i estored it to the crown four or live years afterwards. 
Napoleon then annexed Monceaux to his private domains, and 
upon his fall, in 1814, Louis XVI1J. restored it to the Duke of 
Orleans. This park is well worthy of a visit; it is tastefully 
ornamented with grottos, ruins, etc. Visitors are admitted, with 
passport, on Thursdays and Sundays; tickets of admission for 
the season are with difficulty obtained, and only by applying in 
writing to the Secretary of the Queen. The park is much fre¬ 
quented, as it forms a delightful and quiet promenade. 

In the rue du Faubourg du Roule, on the right hand, is one 
of the King’s Stables, where also the state carriages are kept. 
Handsome buildings, with Tuscan columns, surrounding two 
courts, were erected in the time of Charles X. Apply in person 
for tickets at the Bureau of M. le Premier ficuyer du Roi, rue St. 
Thomas du Louvre, at the Stables (seep. 179). On the same side is 
The Marche du Roule, consisting ot alleys lined with small 
shops. Nearly opposite stands 
St. Philippe, 2d district church of 1st arrondissement.—This 
church, begun in 1769, after the designs ofChalgrin, and finish- 


200 FIRST ARRONDISSEMENT. 

ed in 1784, may be ranked among the best productions of 
the French school. The portico is formed of 4 Doric columns 
crowned by a pediment, which is ornamented with an alto- 
rilievo representing Religion. In the interior, 16 fluted Ionic 
columns separate the nave from the aisles, and 6 more enclose 
the choir, around which the aislesare continued in a semi-circle. 
Beyond the choir is a rectangular chapel dedicated to the Virgin. 
The plan is that of the ancient basilica; the length is 164 feet 
and the breadth 7 8. It contains several good pictures, among 
which may be named the Martyrdom of St. James, by Degeorges. 

Behind this church, at No. 28, rue de Courcelles, is the ele¬ 
gant mansion of Queen Christina of Spain. 

The Stables of the Duchess of Orleans are in the rue de 
Montaigne; visitors are not generally admitted. 

At the upper end of the rue de Miromesnil, leading out of 
the rue du Faubourg St. Ilonore, is the 
Abattoir du Roule— begun in 1810, after the designs and 
under the direction of M. Petit Radel. It occupies a space of 
222 yards in length, by 131 in breadth. A description is unne¬ 
cessary , as, all the Parisian Abbatoirs being alike, an examina¬ 
tion of the largest, that of Popincourt, will suffice for the rest. 

On the Plaine de Monceaux many new streets are traced out, 
and some of them partly finished. From its high and airy si¬ 
tuation, this is destined some day to become one of the best 
quailers of Paris. It is traversed by the St. Germain Railroad. 
From hence, the visitor will return to the 
Place Beauyeau. —This place forms a semicircle. The central 
building, No. 90, is the Hotel Beauveau, in front of which the 
Avenue Marigny extends to the Champs Elysees. 

At the corner of the rue du Faubourg St. Honore, 59, is the 
Palais de l’Elysee Bourbon.— This hotel, constructed in 
1718, altei the designs of Molet, for the Count d’Evreux, was 
afterwards purchased and occupied by Madame de Pompadour 
mistress of Louis XV. Whilst in her possession, part of the 
Champs Elysees was added to the garden. At the death of 
Madame de Pompadour, Louis XV. bought it of the Marquis de 
Maiigny, as a residence for ambassadors extraordinary. In 
1773, M. Beaujon,the famous banker, enlarged and embellished 
it, after whose death the Duchess of Bourbon purchased and 
occupied it till 1790, the period of her emigration. In 1792 it 
became national properly, and during the Revolution was used 
as the government printing-office. In 1800 it was sold, and 
converted into a garden for public amusements. Murat bought 
it in 1804, and resided there until his departure for Naples 
when it again became the property of the government, and was 
a favourite residence of the Emperor. In 1814 and 1815 it 




PALAIS DE L’ELYSEE BOURBON. 201 

was inhabited by the Emperor of Russia, and by the Duke of 
Wellington. When Napoleon returned from Elba, he occupied 
it until the defeat of Waterloo terminated his short revolution 
of the Cent Jours . In 1816, Louis XVIII. gave it to the Duke 
de Berri, on whose assassination it descended to the Duke de 
Bordeaux, and now again belongs to the state. The interest¬ 
ing associations connected with this small palace will render it 
always an object of interest to visitors. A spacious court, ter¬ 
minating elliptically towards the Faubourg St. Honore, leads 
to the principal entrance, adorned with a portico of four Doric 
columns, supporting a Corinthian one on the upper story. The 
wings extending on either side from this central body com¬ 
plete the front. Visitors are introduced through a small vesti¬ 
bule, containing a statue of Apollo, to the suite of apartments 
on the ground tloor, by a guard-chamber, and a dining-room 
50 feet by 20, ornamented with Corinthian columns and pilasters 
richly gilt. The walls of this apartment are painted by Dunouy 
with landscapes, some of the figures of which are by Vernet, 
and were executed for Murat. The views represented are: the 
Pyramids of Egypt, the passing of the Tiber, the Chateau de 
Benrad, on the Rhine, near Dusseldorf, once occupied by Mu¬ 
rat (the carriage in the foreground contains Murat’s children), 
and a view of the chAteau de Neuilly, at that time also Mural’s 
property; a female figure in the foreground is said to be a 
good portrait of Mine. Murat, the sister of Napoleon. The vi¬ 
sitor is then requested to take a turn in the spacious garden, 
where he will obtain a view of the southern front of the palace,’ 
consisting of a central pavilion with an Ionic portico of four 
columns on the basement story, and a Corinthian one on the 
upper; two wings connect this with two lateral pavilions of 
plain architecture. A parterre surrounded with marble vases, 
interrupted by two statues of Venus caressing Cupid, lies in 
front. On returning to the dining-room, the visitor is led to 
the Salon des Aides-de-Camp; oval compartments on the upper 
part of the walls used to contain the portraits of the imperial 
family. The Salon de Reception, into which this leads, formerly 
served as the council-chamber of the Emperor. Here are two 
tine vases of Swedish porphyry, presented to Napoleon by Ber- 
nadotte. The bed-room, in blue and gold, contains, under a 
splendid recess, the bed upon which the Emperor last slept in 
Paris, after the battle of Waterloo. The next apartment was 
the favourite room of the Emperor, and is still called the Salon 
de Travail; it was here that the last abdication was signed. Its 
decorations are extremely elegant. The furniture is of Beauvais 
tapestry. A curious clock over the mantel-piece plays 14 airs. 
From this the visitor passes through the dressing-room, into a 


FIRST ARRONDISSEMENT. 


202 

suite of apartments, one of which was the D.epot des Cartes Geo - 
graphiques of Napoleon; another leads to the Petits Apparte - 
merits , among which is the bed-room once occupied by the 
Due de Berri, and previously by Napoleon, after the battle of 
Waterloo, from June 22 to July 3; also a small library, now 
empty, remarkable for having been the temporary bed-room 
of the Emperor Alexander during the occupation of the allies, 
and a boudoir d’argent, which is exceedingly elegant; the 
walls are in fresco, and the decorations, mouldings of the fur¬ 
niture, etc., in silver. These apartments were lately occupied 
by Ibrahim Pacha. From the grand vestibule the visitor ascends 
the principal staircase, and passes through the apartments of 
the upper story. These, for the most part, are a repetition of 
those on the ground floor. Their decorations are not quite so 
sumptuous; the mirrors however are remarkably fine. The 
Salle de Reception of this suite is adorned with four costly 
chandeliers, and on the mantel-piece is a valuable little statue 
of Agrippine in white marble. The library which follows 
leads to the bed-room. This beautiful apartment, fitted up 
in the style of a tent, with hangings of rich yellow silk, was 
arranged by Mine. Murat, for the reception of her husband 
after one of his campaigns. The ornaments are all gilt, and 
of a military character. This was the bed-room of the Em¬ 
press Maria Louisa, and here also was born the sister of the 
Duke of Bordeaux. Adjoining is a suite of rooms for the ac¬ 
commodation of a dame d’honneur, etc. These were the apart¬ 
ments latterly inhabited by the Prince de Salerno. The 
splendid collection of pictures belonging to the Duke de Berri, 
which formerly adorned the walls of this palace, were sold in 
England for the benefit of the Duke de Bordeaux, since the 
revolution of 1830. The palace has a lonely and deserted ap¬ 
pearance, but the decorations of its wainscots and ceilings 
convey an idea of what it must have been in the time of the 
Emperor, and perhaps even in that of Madame de Pompadour. 
For permission to visit it, application must be made by letter 
to M. I’lntendant de la Lisle Civile, 9, Place Vendome. The 
days of admission are Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday, ami Sun¬ 
day, from 12 to 4. 

The Episcopal Church, for the use of the British embassy and 
residents, is in the rue d’Aguesseau, near the hotel of the Bri¬ 
tish ambassador. Its style is Gothic; the internal decorations 
are plain ; it consists of a nave, 50 feet high, and is lighted by 
painted windows at each end, and by three apertures in the roof. 
The organ is placed behind the altar, which is ornamented 
with a line painting by Annibal Carracci. The pulpit, desks 
and seals are of oak. There is a large and handsome gallery 


CHAPELLE EXPIATOIRE. 203 

fop Uie use of the ambassador, his family, and the members of 
the embassy. This church was built in 1833, at the expense of 
the lale Bishop Luscombe, chaplain of the embassy, and after 
a plan of his own, by M. Vivenel, under the direction of M. Dalli- 
stein, architect. It will hold about 800 persons, and is crowded 
during the hours of divine service by the most respectable of 
tbe British residents and visitors. The service on Sundays is 
at half past 11 and 4 O’clock. The secretary is Mr. Shephard, 
who resides at the ottice adjoining the church, to whom notice 
ol marriages, funerals, and baptisms may be given. 

At No. 41, in the rue du Faubourg St. Ilonore, is the splendid 
hotel of the Baroness Pontalba. The ground floor is of the 
Doric order, having a deeply-projecting portico. The upper 
story is Composite; the roof is broken by windows, in the 
Mansard style. Next to this is 

The British Embassy, No. 39, formerly the Hotel Borghese, 
the residence of the Princess Pauline, sister of Bonaparte. It 
was purchased by the British government soon after the peace 
in 1814, and with its fine garden forms one of tbe most noble 
residences of Paris. The British consular office is here. 
Returning from thence, the visitor will pass near the 
Hotel de la ReykiEre, l, rue des Champs Elysees.—This was 
once the residence of the famous M. Grimod, author of the 
Almanack des Gourmands. It was long occupied by the Russian 
embassy; the Duke of Wellington also resided here. It is now 
the residence of the Turkish ambassador. 

The stranger should now proceed to the 
Chapelle Expiatoire, rue d’Anjou St. Honore.—The spot 
upon which this beautiful little chapel is erected was originally 
a burial-ground dependent upon the parochial church of the 
Madeleine. Upon the execution of the unfortunate Louis XVI. 
and his queen, in 1793, they were here obscurely interred. It 
was then purchased by M. Descloseaux, and converted into an 
orchard, in order to secure from revolutionary fury the pre¬ 
cious remains which it contained. The royal graves were care¬ 
fully marked by the proprietor, who, it is said, sent annually 
to the Duchess d’Angouleme a bouquet of flowers gathered 
from the ground beneath which her parents were laid. At the 
Restoration the orchard was purchased from its faithful guar¬ 
dian, and the royal ashes were transported to St. Denis with 
the greatest solemnity and pomp. The earth that had enclosed 
the collins was carefully preserved, and placed where the king 
had lain; whatever could be found on this spot of the other 
victims of the revolution, including the Swiss Guards, was also 
placed in two large adjoining graves. Over the whole, an ex¬ 
piatory chapel, with suitable buildings adjoining, was erected 


204 first arrondissement. 

by Louis XVIII., as the following inscription on the front shows: 

Le Roi Louis XVIII. a Meve ce monument pour conscrver les lieux 
ou les depouilles mortelles du Roi Louis XVI. et de la Reine Marie- 
Antoinetle, transferees le 21 Janvier MDGCCXV. dans la sepulture 
royale de St. Denis, ont reposees pendant XXI. ans. II a 6le acheve la 
deuxi^me annee du regne du roi Charles X., Fan de grace MDCCCXX VI. 

The adjoining space is planted with cypresses, and has gates 
in the rues d’Anjou, de la Madeleine, and de l’Arcade. The 
outer vestibule leads by a flight of steps to a raised platform, 
surrounded by a covered gallery on each side and by a chapel 
at each end, containing the remains of the old cemetery. Op¬ 
posite stands the larger chapel, of the Doric order, in the form 
of a cross, surmounted by a dome. Within are two statues, of 
Louis XVI. and Marie Antoinette, each supported by an angel; 
on the pedestal of the former his will is inscribed in letters of 
gold on a black marble slab; on that of the latter are extracts 
of the queen’s last letter toMme. Elisabeth. Around the chapel 
are niches with magnificent candelabra, and over its vestibule 
is a bas-relief representing the funeral procession to St. Denis. 
The corners are adorned with allegorical bas-reliefs. The 
whole is finished with great taste and simplicity. Beneath is a 
subterranean chapel, where an altar of grey marble is erected 
over the exact spot where Louis XVI. was buried; and in a 
corner, about 6 teet from it, is pointed out the original resting- 
place of the queen. The vestry attached is for the use of two 
clergymen, who perform mass here every day. The architects 
were Percier and Fontaine. The guardian who shows it resides 
in the building. Not far from this are the 

Bains de Tivoli, 102, rue St. Lazare.—In this establishment 
are artificial baths of every kind, with commodious lodgings 
for invalids, and a fine garden. 

At 5, rue Sle. Croix d’Anlin, is the 

College Royal de Bourdon. —The buildings in which this 
college is established were erected in 1781, after the designs 
of Brongniart, for a convent of Capuchins. In 1800, the same 
architect was charged to convert it into a college, to be called 
Lycee Bonaparte, a name winch it bore till the restoration 
when it assumed that of College de Bourbon. The front is 
162 teet long by 42 in height. It consists of a central door-way 
with Doiic columns resting on plinths, and sustaining an en¬ 
tablature, and of two pavilions at the extremities; one of 
which, formerly the chapel of the convent, is now 

The Church of St. Louis d’Antin, composed of a nave, with 
one narrow aisle : it is a plain building of the Doric order 
with a nave and aisle, and a semicircular choir; the altar is 
towards the west. The ceiling of the choir is painted by 


napoleon’s early mansion. 205 

Messrs. Abel tie Pujol and Brezard, and four large pictures of 
saints, painted in wax, are by Messrs. Signol, Cornu, and Be- 
zart. Behind the aisle to the left is a rectangular Lady Chapel 
with Ionic pilasters. In an urn placed on a column of black 
marble, in the baptismal chapel, is the heart of Count de 
Choiseul Gouffier, the celebrated Grecian traveller. 

Passing by the rue Joubert, the stranger may obtain admit¬ 
tance to No. 52, rue de la \ictoire (called during the restora¬ 
tion rue Chantereine). By proceeding up an avenue, leading 
into a garden, he will find a house, once the residence of Na¬ 
poleon and Josephine. It was originally built in 1787 for the 
celebrated dancer Guimard, passed from her to Madame Talma 
who in her turn sold it to Madame Beauharnais, afterwards the 
Lmpress Josephine. The latter added the pavilion we now see 
at the nearer end, which formed no part of the original con¬ 
struction. It masks the pillared door-way, and its interior, 
iorming a kind of antechamber to the suite of rooms (only three 
m number, and any thing but spacious), will ever be famous 
tor being the trysting-place of the future Emperor’s paladins, 
when the new chivalry of France set out with their chiefs to 
silence the “avocals criards,” as the fiery Murat designated the 
legislators assembled in the Orangery of St. Cloud. On the 
western side of the building, the visitor will see the window 
of the cabinet de travail of the then future Emperor. It is the 
fourth and last window of the lower range. The door of this 
cabinet, which is not much larger than a sentry-box, opens 
interiorly into the drawing-room. Overhead, at the top of the 
house, may be seen the sky-lighted garret in which Napoleon 
passed many a night. His habitation of the little mansion, which 
of course was only as occasional as his visits to Paris, seems to 
have always caused some derangement of its interior economy, 
seeing that his step-son, Eugene, the future Viceroy of Italy, 
was fain to sleep in the loft of the small coach-house which the 
visitor will remark to the right on entering the garden. The 
bed-room of his sister Hortense, afterwards queen of Holland, 
may also be seen close by. General Bertrand became the tenant 
of this mansion for a time, on his return from St. Helena, 
on the death of his master in 1821. Its present occupant is 
M. Boutet, who has established in it an institution. The hotel is 
the property of the widow of Marshal Lefebvre-Desnouette. In 
the garden may be seen a bust of Napoleon, (l) not remarkable 

(l) As the most trifling circumstances connected with the career of 
his extraordinary mail cannot but be interesting to the reader, a brief 
notice is subjoined of the different places at which he resided in Paris 
worn his first arrival up to the revolution of the 18 th Brumaire, and the 
establishment of the Consulargovernment.—£co/eilh7hab'e; Bonaparte, 

18 



206 FIRST ARRONbISSEMENT. 

in itself, under which Bertrand has caused to he engraved 

In hsec minima jam maximus plusquam maxima concopit. 

In the house adjoining are the Bains Neothermes, the com- 
pletest bathing-establishment in Paris, where invalids may have 
the competent medical attendance of Dr. A. de Bonnard. 
Returning to the Boulevard, the visitor will find the 
Maison St. Foix, or Hotel d’Osmond, 8, rue Basse du Rempart, 
a splendid mansion built by Brongniart, in 1775. 

At the western extremity of the Boulevards stands the superb 
church of 

La Madeleine.— This is the fourth church which has been 
erected, since the beginning of the 13th century, on this site, 


coming from ihe military school of Bricnne, was admitted here on the 
19th October, 1784, and occupied a small room on the upper story of the 
establishment. Quai de Conti, No. 5. Here Bonaparte occupied a small 
garret. Hotel de Metz, rue du Mail, from May to September 1792 . Bo- 
napaite, then a captain of artillery, was ordered to Paris to render an 
account of some strong political opinions he bad expressed while in 
garrison at Valence.— Hdiel des Droits del’Homme,rue du Mail, October, 
1794. Bonaparte was then general of artillery; his brother Louis and 
Junot accompanied him as aides-de-camp. They lodged together on the 
4th story, at a rent of 27 livres in specie per month. IIis friendship for 
Talma, which continued unabated to his death, commenced in this 
house, to which the great actor resorted to give lessons in declamation 
to “la citoyenne Petit,” afterwards Mine. Talma.— Hue de la Michau- 
diere, No. 19. Being without employment, in very narrow circum¬ 
stances, and unwilling to go to La Vendee as a general of infantry, 
Bonaparte occupied a small lodging in the upper story of this house.— 
Hotel Mira beau, rue du Dauphin, 1795. Bonaparte disgraced occupied 
himself in visiting the different members of the National Convention, to 
solicit employment. In this hotel he slept on the eve of the i3lh Ven- 
demiaire 0 ! that memorable day on which, having obtained the com¬ 
mand of the troops through the favour of Barras, he defeated “ the 
sections,” and opened his way to the appointment of “ General in Chief 
of the Army ofltaly, Hdiel de la Colonnade,rue Neuve des Capucines . 
Here Bon a pat te installed himself on the 13 th Vendemiaire, and remained 
ouring the disarmament ol “ the sections,” and here, on the 9th March, 
1790, was celebrated his marriage with Josephine, widow of General 
Beauharnais, who had perished on the scaffold.—Rite Chantereine, 
No. 52, whither Bonaparte removed on his marriage with Josephine! 
From this hotel he look his departure 21 st March, 1796, to assume the 
command of the army of i taly, and on the 5lh December, 1797 , returned 
to it, his arrival at Paris being preceded by 170 standards, 550pieces of 
cannon, and 60,000,000 1r. remitted to the stale; in honour of which the 
municipality voted that the street should henceforth bear the name of 
tbe“ruedela Vicloire.” Here Bonaparte received his appointment to 
the command of the expedition to Egypt; and from this hotel, on his re¬ 
turn, emanated those counsels and intrigues which led to the revolution 
ol the 18 th Brumaire, and to his dictatorship. 






LA MADELEINE. 


207 

called in former times, from its vicinity to a suburban villa of 
the Bishops of Paris, “laVille l’Ev^que.” In 1G59, Mademoiselle 
d’Orleans laid the first stone of the edifice which immediately 
preceded the Madeleine. That church not being found suffi¬ 
ciently large for the increasing population of the neighbour¬ 
hood, the present magnificent structure was commenced in 
1764, by Constant d’lvry, architect to the Duke of Orleans: to 
d’lvry, who died in 1777, succeeded Couture, who altered in 
some respects the original design. The breaking out of the 
Revolution suspended the works altogether, until, on the ter¬ 
mination of the Prussian campaign, Napoleon having deter¬ 
mined to dedicate the Madeleine as a Temple of Glory, “to 
commemorate the achievements of the French arms, and to 
have on its columns engraved the names of all those who had 
died in lighting their country’s battles,” allotted the necessary 
funds, and directed Vignon to complete it. The Emperor’s pro¬ 
ject was frustrated by the disastrous events which followed. 
In 1815, Louis XV111. restored it to its original destination, and 
decreed that it should contain monuments to Louis XVI., Marie 
Antoinette, Louis XVII., and Mademoiselle Elisabeth. The re¬ 
volution of 1830 found it, notwithstanding, in a very unfinished 
state; the activity of the present government has, however, 
completed it, under the direction of M. Huve, who had con¬ 
ducted the work with M. Vignon, in a manner altogether worthy 
the original design. This proud specimen of the genius of mo¬ 
dern architecture stands on an elevated platform, of 328 feet in 
length by 138 in breadth, and is approached at each end by a 
flight of 28 steps, extending the entire length of the facade. Its 
form and proportions are purely Grecian. A colonnade of 52 iso¬ 
lated Corinthian columns, each 49 feet by 16'/ 2 in circumference, 
surrounds it, 15 on each side, 14 in the southern portico and 
8 in the northern. The inlercolumniations are of the breadth 
of two diameters, and corresponding with them, in the walls, 
is a row of niches containing colossal statues of saints, com¬ 
posed of, on the right of the bronze gate, St. Philippe, and on 
the left, St. Louis, both by Nanteuil. In the colonnade on the 
right; 1. the Angel Gabriel, by Duret; 2. St. Bernard, by Hus- 
son; 3. Sle. Therese, by Feuchere; 4. St. Hilaire, by Ilugue- 
nin; 5. Ste. Cecile, by Dumont; 6. St. Irenee, by Gourdel; 
7. Ste. Adelaide, by Bosio, nephew; 8. St.Francois de Sales, by 
Molchenet; 9. Sle.Helene, by Merrier; 10. St. Martin de Tours, 
byGrevenich; 11. Ste. Agathe, by Dantan, jun.; 12.j St. Gregoire, 
by Therasse; 13. Ste. Agnes, by Dusseigneur; 14. St. Raphael, 
by Dantan, sen. Facing the rue Tronchel: 15. St. Luc, by 
Ramey; 16. St. Jean, by the same; 17. St. Mathieu, byDesprez; 
18. St. Marc, by Lemaire. In the colonnade on the left: 19. 


208 first arrondissement. 

Guardian Angel, by Bra; 20. Ste. Marguerite, by Caunois: 21. St. 
Jean Chrysostdme, by Jeclher; 22. Ste. Genevieve, by Debay, 
sen.; 23. St. Gregoire le Grand, by Maindron; 24. Ste. Jeanne de 
Valois, by Caillot; 25. St. Jerome, by Lanno; 2G. Ste. Christine, 
by Valcher; 27. St. Ferdinand, by Jalay; 28. Ste. Elizabeth, by 
Cailhouelte; 29, St. Charles Borromee, by JoufFroy; 30. Ste. 
Anne, by Desboeufs; 31. St. Denis, by Debay, jun.; 32. St. Mi¬ 
chel, by Raggi. A richly sculptured frieze, surmounted by a 
cornice adorned with lions’ heads and palm leaves, crowns the 
colonnade; and the ceiling, between the two walls and the 
colonnade six feet in breadth, is distributed into square moulded 
compartments enriched with the most florid architectural orna¬ 
ment. The pediment of the southern end contains an immense 
alto-relievo by Lemaire, 12G feet in length by 24 in height to 
the angle : in the centre is the figure of Christ, at whose feet 
the Magdalene is seen in an attitude of suppliant penitence, 
receiving from the divine clemency the remission of her sins. 
On the right of the Saviour the Angel of Pity contemplates 
with benign satisfaction the converted sinner: directed to as¬ 
semble the just, he is attended by Innocence, supported by 
Faith and Hope. Charity, seated, attended by two children, 
regards the blissful abodes of Paradise. In the angle is an angel 
who greets the resurrection of a blessed spirit, and, raising 
his shroud, points to the place reserved for him. On the left 
of the Sovereign Judge the Angel of Vengeance repels the 
Vices. Hatred, with distorted features; Unchastity, personified 
by a female dishevelled and in disordered garb, accompanied 
by the object of her guilty passion; Hypocrisy, with youthful 
feminine features, on her head a raised mask; Avarice, repre¬ 
sented by Age still clinging to useless treasures; and a demon 
precipitating into the abyss a damned spirit, terminate the 
group on this side. This is the largest sculptured pediment in 
existence, and occupied two years in executing: the figure of 
Christ measures 18 feet in height. The northern portico is 
simple, without any extraordinary architectural ornament. The 
main walls are rusticated with moulded channels. Having 
ascended the lofty flight of steps which leads to the southern 
porch, the visitor’s attention will be arrested by the bronze 
doors, a work in every respect worthy of the edifice. This im¬ 
mense chef-d’oeuvre , measuring 33 feel by lG'A, illustrates by 
scriptural subjects in compartments the ten commandments. 
The 1st contains a bas-relief of Moses commanding the Tables* 
which he has just received from the Lord, to be obeyed. 2d’ 
Moses causes the blasphemer to be stoned. 3d, God reposes 
after the creation of man. 4th, Joshua punishes the theft of 
Acham after the taking of Jericho. 5th, the curse of Noah on 


LA MADELEINE. 209 

his son. 6th, Susanna, and punishment of the Elders. 7lh, The 
death of Abel, and the curse of Cain. Slh, God reproaches 
Abimelech. 9th, Nathan announces to David his chastisement. 
10th, Elias reproaches Jezabel with the murder of Naboth. 
These noble doors, designed by Triquetti, and cast, under his 
direction, by Messrs. Richard, Eck, and Durand, are consider¬ 
ably larger than those of the Baptistery at Florence, or of the 
Pantheon at Rome, and are only to be compared in dimensions 
to those of,St. Peter’s. On entering the vestibule, where a 
splendid organ with Corinthian decorations, richly carved and 
gilt, is erected over the porch, three bas-reliefs are conspicuous 
on the soffit of the arch, Faith, Hope, and Charity. On the right 
is the chapel for marriages, with a group by Pradier, repre¬ 
senting the marriage of the Virgin. On the left is the baptismal 
font, with a group by Rude, of Christ and St. John at the wa¬ 
ters of Jordan. The pulpit to the right on entering and the 
12 confessionals along the chapels, richly carved in oak and 
gilt, are executed in the same taste as the decorations of the 
organ. The church itself consists of a vast nave, laterally in¬ 
terrupted by four piers on each side, fronted with lofty fluted 
Corinthian columns standing on pedestals, supporting colossal 
arches, on which rest three spherical cupolas pierced with 
skylights and adorned with compartments gorgeously gilt; 
their corners are supported by Saints and Apostles in alto- 
relievo. The choir is semicircular, and pierced above with a 
skylight also. The walls of the church are lined with rich 
marbles. An Ionic portico, supporting a gallery with a balus¬ 
trade, runs between the piers of the lateral arches, and is con¬ 
tinued around the choir; it is interrupted under each arch by 
the pediment of a chapel with Corinthian columns; a marble 
balustrade separates these chapels, six in number, from the 
rest of the church. Each chapel contains the statue in marble 
of its patron; they are : Ste. Amelie, by Bra; Jesus Christ, by 
Daret; Ste. Clotilde, by Barye, on the right : on the left, St. 
Vincent de Paule, by Raggi; the Virgin, by Seurre; St. Augus¬ 
tin, by Etex. A marble balustrade encompassing the interior 
of the church separates it from these altars. The lympans of the 
lateral arches above the chapels contain paintings illustrative of 
the life of the Magdalene. The first, to the right on entering, re¬ 
presents the Preaching of Christ and Conversion of the Mag¬ 
dalene, bySchnelz. 2d, The Crucifixion, with the Virgin Mary, 
Mary Magdalene, etc., by Bouchot. 3d, The Magdalene in the 
desert, joining in prayer with the angels, etc., by Abel de Pu¬ 
jol. On the left, 1st, The Supper of Bethany, with the Magda¬ 
lene at the feet of Christ, by Coudert. 2d, The Magdalene, 
bringing precious ointments to embalm the body of Christ, is 


%\ 0 FIRST ARRONDISSEMENT. 

told by an angel that he has risen, by Coignel. 3d, The Death 
of the Magdalene, who resigns her spirit amidst the hymns of 
angels and the seraphim, by Signol. (1) On the ceiling over the 
altar is a splendid composition by Ziegler, which cannot fail to 
command attention. The object of the artist in this great de¬ 
sign was to illustrate, by personages sacred and historic, the 
events which have most powerfully contributed to propagate, 
establish, and .maintain the Christian religion, and, by the in¬ 
troduction of the Magdalene in glory, to exhibit the regenerat¬ 
ing influence of Christianity on the lives and morals of men. 
The Magdalene, in the attitude of a repentant sinner, is placed 
near Christ : three angels, supporting the cloud on which she 
kneels, exhibit a scroll with the words “dilexit multum” (she 
loved much). The Saviour enthroned, in his hand the symbol 
of redemption, is surrounded by the Apostles and Evangelists, 
the founders of Christianity: on his right are characterised the 
principal events which relate to the history of the eastern 
church, in the persons of the Emperor Constantine, St. Mau¬ 
rice, St. Laurence, St. Augustin habited as a monk, and St. Am- 
broise, bishop of Milan. Next come the Crusades : Urban II., 
Eugenius III., St. Bernard, Peter the Hermit pressing on the ex¬ 
pedition, are in the van ; then follow the dukes, counts, and 
barons of Christendom offering their wealth and their swords, 
and an old man beneath, who devotes his three sons to the 
“holy cause.” Chief of a group near the Magdalene, St. Louis 
kneels, covered with the royal mantle, displaying the fleursde 
lys; then Godefroy de Bouillon, bearing the oriflamme; Richard 
Cceur de Lyon, Robert of Normandy, a Constable de Montmo¬ 
rency; Dandolo, the “blind old Doge,” carrying the Venetian 
standard, which he planted in triumph on the Turkish walls; 
and next, recognised by his pen, is Villehardouin, the histo¬ 
rian of the Crusades. The struggles of the Greeks to throw off 
the Mussulman yoke are depicted by a Grecian warrior pro¬ 
strate, and a group of his countrymen pressing in devotion 
around the standard of the cross. On the Saviour’s left are 
some of the early martyrs: Ste. Catherine, with the wheel, etc.; 
Sle. Cecilia, holding the emblem of “divine harmony.” Indis¬ 
tinctly seen is the shadowy form of Ahasuerus, the wandering 
Jew, traditionally supposed to be Judas Iscariot. Below are 
the warriors of Clovis, from whose aspect a Druidess flies in 
dismay. St. Remi baptises Clovis, near whom in the attitude of 
devotion is Ste. Clotilde, Queen of France. Corresponding to 

(I) The mode of applying those paintings is very durable. A thin coat 
of line lime is first applied to the surface of the wall, and one of oil is 
then added; upon this the painting is made, and the process is equiva¬ 
lent to painting on the stone itself. 


LA MADELEINE. 211 

St. Louis is Charlemagne, on whom a cardinal confers the 
insignia of Ihe empire; an envoy of the caliph Haroun al Ras- 
chid, attended hv a guardian of the holy sepulchre, presents 
him with “the keys,” and the robe of the Virgin. Lower down 
is Pope Alexander HI., who laid the foundation of Notre Dame, 
giving his benediction to Frederick Barbarossa; the Doge and 
a Venetian senator standing near indicate that the ceremony 
took place at Venice. Ollio, Joan of Arc, Raphael, Michael 
Angelo, and Dante, complete this side. In the centre is Henry IV., 
Hie convert to Catholicism; Louis XIII., presenting his crown 
to the Virgin in obedience to his vow; and near him Richelieu, 
"who assists in the ceremony. The last group is devoted to the 
Emperor Napoleon, who receives the imperial crown from the 
hands of Pius VII. The Bishop of Genoa unrolls the concordat, 
and is assisted by Cardinals Caprara and Braschi. The artist has 
not introduced his present Majesty, but a dale inscribed on a 
column sufficiently indicates by whose orders this record of the 
triumphs of Christianity was executed. The choir, forming a 
semicircle, is ornamented in the inlercolumnialions with paint¬ 
ings and arabesques by Raveral, on a ground of gold, which 
produce a very line effect. In the midst, approached by marble 
steps, stands the high altar, unrivalled perhaps for the richness 
of its sculptured decorations, by Marochetti. The principal 
group represents the Magdalene in an altitude of divine rap¬ 
ture, borne to paradise on the wings of angels; around her 
person are draped a gracefully-folded tunic, and the long hair 
with which she wiped the Saviour’s feet. On a pedestal at each 
of the front angles is an archangel in prayer. All these figures 
are considered to be of the finest design and execution; they 
are all of the size of nature, and were paid 150,000 fr. A deli¬ 
cately sculptured frieze runs in front of the table, and is by 
M. Calhouette; two beautiful children support semicircular 
lateral stands on each side, and below the table of the altar is a 
bas-relief representing the feast of Cana, by Moine. It must be 
acknowledged that this church, although it will disappoint the 
expectations of those w ho think to find in it the “ solemn tem¬ 
ple,” is a splendid specimen of the perfection and resources of 
art in this country. Much difficulty was experienced in venti¬ 
lating and warming this vast building; it has, however, been 
so happily attained, that little variation is now perceptible in 
any part of it, by means of hot-water pipes emanating from a 
boiler placed under the choir. Behind the northern portico, 
and concealed from view, is a peal of fixed bells, rung by ham¬ 
mers. The roof is composed entirely of iron and copper. In 
the basement story is a chapel dedicated to St. Francis Xavier, 
belonging to the fraternity of that name. High mass is ce- 


SECOND ARRONDISSEMENT. 


212 

lebrated in the Madeleine at 11 on Sundays and holidays. 

Behind the Madeleine is a small hut well-supplied market, 
and on the esplanade east of the edifice a flower-market is held 
on Tuesdays and Fridays. Near this, in the rue Chauveau la 
Garde, No. 3, is the Hotel Victoria, an English house, and noted 
for its comfort, airiness, and the reasonableness of its charges. 
At a short distance is the 

Hotel des Affaires Etrangeres, corner of the Boulevard 
and rue Neuve des Capucines, (l) offices and residence of the 
Minister for Foreign Affairs. In 1821, government purchased 
this hotel of the heirs of Marshal Berthier, Prince of Wagram. 
A new hotel for the Minister is being erected on the ground 
adjoining the Chamber of Deputies. 

Passing into the rue de la Paix, one of the cleanest and 
widest of the trading streets of Paris, the visitor will observe the 

Hotel du Timbre.— -The Stamp-Office occupies a part of the 
Convent des Capucines, from which the neighbouring street and 
boulevard derive their names It presents a blank wall to the 
street, looking like a mausoleum. This building, as well as the 
hotel of the Minister of Foreign Affairs, is soon to be pulled 
down, and the ground sold to build upon. The new Stamp- 
Office will be in the rue de la Banque, near the Bank of 
France. 

Opposite is a barrack of the Sapeurs-P ompiers, or Firemen. 




One of the first objects on entering this arrondissement from 
the Place Yendome is the 

Marche St. Honore, rue du Marche St. Honore, opened in 
1809, upon the site of the Convent des Jacobins, so celebrated 
during the Revolution. It consists of four covered squares, for 
the sale of provisions of all sorts; it is well supplied with water 
by fountains. 

The rue Neuve des Petits Champs will lead, by the rue Me- 
hul, to a “place” in which stands an elegant building, the 
Thedtre des Italiens, (See Theatres.) 

Next to this, the Passage Choiseul, one of the handsomest in 
Paris, will lead the visitor into the rue Neuve St. Augustin; at 
the western end of which will be found the 

Fontaine de Louis le Grand, at the angle formed by the rue 


( 1 ) In April 1845, at the corner of the Boulevard and Ihe Rue Neuve du 
Luxembourg, the workmen, in digging rather deep for the foundation 
of a new house, came on part of the old fortifications of Paris under 
Henry IV., which ran along the central line of Boulevards and terminated 
at the Porte St. Honore, and which were destroyed in Louis XIV/s time. 



CIMETIEIRE DE MONTMARTRE. 213 

de la Miehodiere and the rue du Port Mahon.— This pretty 
fountain was erected in 1712, and rebuilt in 1828. It consists 
of two columns, with a niche between, in which stands a figure 
armed with a trident, in the act of striking a dolphin. The ca¬ 
pitals, cornices, and entablature, are ornamented with sculp¬ 
tures of fish, shells, aquatic plants, etc. The basin, formed of 
a single block of stone, is fashioned to represent an immense 
shell. The following was the inscription :— 

Regnante Carlo X. 

Pristinum fontem angustiore area jam amplificata, 

Communi utililati urbisque ornamento, 

In majus restituerunt praefectus et aediles 
Anno M.DCCC.XX.YIII. 

but the first line of it is now effaced. 

On passing up the rue Louis le Grand, the visitor comes to 
the western end of the Boulevard des 1 taliens, where he will 
remark the fantastic front of the Bains Chinois, lately sold, 
and soon to be pulled down. From hence the rue de la Chaus- 
see d’Antin (1) leads to the rue de Clicliy, where, on the eastern 
side, at No 34, is the Ecole Municipale de Francois I., founded 
by the City (see p. 84); and higher up, not far from the bar¬ 
rier, is tbe new Prison for Debtors, a plain building, almost 
entirely hid from the street by a high wall. (See p. Gi.) 

The stranger, by prolonging his walk outside the Barriere 
de Clichy, will soon come to the airy and agreeable town of 
Les Balignolles. To the east along the exterior Boulevard is the 

Cimetiere de Montmartre. —This spot having formerly been 
a gypsum quarry, the consequent irregularity of the ground 
gives it a broken and picturesque appearance. It was the first 
cemetery established after the suppression of burial-places in 
the city, and was originally named Champs de Bepos. The vi¬ 
sitor, in making the tour, should ascend an elevation to the 

(l) The nomenclature of this street has undergone many changes. It 
was at first called Chemin des Porcherons, being at that time only a 
rugged road crossing the Pres des Porcherons, an open space, ihe fa¬ 
vourite resort of duellists and debauchees. It was next named Chaussde 
Gaillon, on account of its proximity to the Porte Gaillon; afterwards 
Rue de I’Hotel Dieu, from its leading to a farm belonging to that hospital; 
subsequently on the building of the fldtel d'Anlin it became the Chaus¬ 
sde d’Anlin. In 1791 it received the name of Rue Miraheau, in memory 
of the celebrated revolutionary orator, who resided in it at the time of 
his death, atNo. 12. In 1793, by a decree of the Republic, it was changed 
to Rue Montblanc , but at the Restoration it resumed its title of Chaussde 
d’Antin. The financier Necker resided at No. 7, afterwards the Hdtel 
Recarnier. No. 62 was built on the site of a small hotel inhabited by Jo¬ 
sephine before her marriage with Napoleon, and in which Gen. Foy died. 
The last house on the right was formerly the hotel of Cardinal Fesch. 


21 4 SECOND ARRONDISSEMENT. 

right, which affords an interesting view of the ground below, 
where in Spring the poplar, the lilac, and the honeysuckle 
revive and bloom among the mouldering dead. At the extre¬ 
mity of this eminence will be observed a stone cross, near 
which on an elevation are some handsome monuments of the 
families of Yoyer d’Argenson, d’Aguesseau, de Segur, and Se- 
vesle. The most prominent object is a stone obelisk, surmounted 
by a cross, erected to the memory of a Duchess de Montmo¬ 
rency. Near it is the tomb of Prince Ernest of Saxe-Cobourg, 
who died at Paris in 1832. Among the monuments most ad¬ 
mired for an elegant simplicity are those of the two celebrated 
singers, Jenny Colon and M. Nourrit, erected within the last 
few years; the latter presents a beautifully-executed profile 
likeness of that accomplished actor and singer. Amidst a mul¬ 
titude of simple grave-stones are scattered numbers of highly- 
ornamented columns, sarcophagi, small temples, etc. The 
stranger’s steps will often he arrested by epitaphs breathing 
expressions of the most touching and unaffected tenderness. 
The fosses communes, or common graves, will be noticed near 
the exterior boundary. Towards the centre of the cemetery 
is the Jews’ burying-ground, enclosed, and containing some 
handsome monuments with Hebrew inscriptions. The stranger 
should not fail to visit this cemetery, as, next to Pere la Chaise, 
it is the most picturesque and rich in monuments. The English 
visitor’s attention will frequently he arrested by monumental 
inscriptions in his native tongue to the memory of his coun¬ 
trymen. 

On returning from this spot, the Barriere Blanche leads by 
the rue Blanche to the Poste aux Chevaux, at the corner of the 
rue Pigale. This large well-arranged establishment contains a 
farriery, sheds for fodder, corn, etc., the director’s house, and 
other offices, besides the immense stables. The number of 
horses kept here exceeds 400. Strangers are readily admitted. 

In this part of the town the houses, built in tiie style of 
villas, many surrounded by good gardens, and on the hill-side 
overlooking Paris, form a delightful quarter of the capital. One 
of them, No. 20, rue Fontaine St. George, is worthy a visit; it 
is built in the style of the renaissance, and the sculptures, 
executed by M. Lechesne, are of the most finished description. 

Eastward of this, at the end of the rue St. Lazare, is 

Notre Dame de Lorette.— This beautiful church was com¬ 
menced in 1823, after the designs of M. Le Bas. Its total 
external dimensions are 204 feel by 96. A square campanile 
crowns the roof of the choir. The portico, which looks well 
when viewed from the rue Lafitte, is composed of four Corin¬ 
thian columns, supporting a pediment, in which are sculp- 


NOTRE DAME DE LORETTE. 215 

lured in alto-relievo the Virgin and infant Saviour adored by 
angels. On the frieze is the inscription:— reatae marine virgini 
lauretanas. Over the pediment are the figures of Faith, Hope, 
and Charily. The principal entrance under Ihe portico is Hanked 
by smaller ones at the extremities of the facade. The internal 
decorations much resemble those of some of the Roman 
churches. Two rows of 8 Ionic columns, to the right and left, se¬ 
parate the nave from the aisles, each of which begins with a 
semicircular chapel and cupola; the choir is terminated by a 
large semi-circular alcove. Two more rows of columns sepa¬ 
rate from the aisles the chapels lining the main walls, richly 
decorated or hung with pictures; the ceilings are gorgeous, 
being divided into compartments, richly sculptured and orna¬ 
mented with rosettes, the whole highly coloured or profusely 
gilt. At the entrance of each aisle is a small chapel and cupola; 
that on the right being the baptistery, that on the left hand 
the chapel of the dead. In the former, several frescos represent 
the fall and the regeneration of man; in the cupola are painted 
Intelligence, Innocence, Wisdom, and the Guardian Angel; 
surrounded with the attributes of Baptism. In the latter we 
see the Resurrection of Christ, the Sepulchre, and Scenes of 
Death at different stages. Both these chapels are painted by 
Blondel. At the other extremities are two others, still unfi¬ 
nished, viz., the chapel of the Virgin, for marriages, and that 
of the Holy Communion; meantime these services are per¬ 
formed in small side chapels, also decorated with paintings, 
composed expressly by the first artists of the day. Over the 
columns and entablature of the nave, the spaces between 
the windows are occupied by eight beautiful frescos illustrative 
of the life of the Virgin, by Dubois, Langlois, Vinchon, Monvoi- 
sin, Dejeanne, Grange, Hesse, and Coutan. The remaining ones, 
three in each aisle, are separated by partitions, with doors to 
communicate. The windows display line specimens of stained 
glass. The choir is titled up with stalls; a gill balustrade sepa¬ 
rates it from the rest of the nave, and its walls are incrusted 
with rich marbles. The high altar is supported by columns of 
the Corinthian order, with gilt bronze bases and capitals. Over 
the stalls are painted the Presentation in the Temple, by Heim, 
and Jesus in the Temple, by Drolling. The dome of the choir 
is adorned with figures of the four Evangelists, by Delorme; 
on the concave ceiling behind the high altar is the Crowning of 
the Virgin, by Picot, executed on a ground of gold. The or¬ 
gan, a very line one, but not harmonising with the gorgeous 
decorations of the church, is placed over the principal doorway. 
The general effect of the interior of this boasted gem of French 
devotional art is by many considered loo splendid to produce 


SECOND ARRONDISSEMENT. 


216 

the solemn feeling a place of worship ought to inspire. The 
quarries of Chateau Landon furnished the stone even for the 
polished pillars of the nave. The entire cost of the church 
was about 1,800,000 fr. Service is performed here with much 
pomp, and the singing, chiefly executed by children of the 
parochial schools, instructed on the new harmonic system, is 
remarkably good. 

Behind this church there is a new quarter of Paris, called 
La Nouvelle Athcnes, well worth the stranger’s attention, for 
the elegance of the houses. In ascending the rue Notre Dame 
de Lorette, at the left hand corner of the rue St. Georges, is a 
private house with a small garden in front, the residence of 
M. Thiers. The quarter of Notre Dame de Lorette is the fa¬ 
vourite abode of artists, actresses, and femmes galantes. The 
rue des Martyrs leads to the 

Abattoir de Montmartre.— This slaughter-house is situated 
between the rue Rochechouart, the avenue Trudaine, the rue 
des Martyrs, and the wall of Paris. The architect was M. Poi- 
tevin, under whose direction it was begun in 1811. It occupies 
a spot 389 yards in length by 140 in breadth. 

The visitor may descend by the rue Rochechouart, or the rue 
du Faubourg Poissonniere, in the latter of which is the large 
circular laboratory of the French Gas Light Company, besides 
other manufactories. In the rue Monlholon, at the eastern end, 
No. G, is a Protestant church, one of the oldest edifices in Paris, 
formerly devoted to the Catholic service, under the title of 
St. Vincent de Paule.(l) 

The visitor may now, on turning back a few steps, strike into 
the rue Lafayette, which will lead him to the splendid church of 

St. Vincent dePaule, place Lafayette, the first stone of which 
was laid in 1824, and inaugurated on the 27 111 October 1844. 
—Exterior. A broad flight of steps, flanked by graceful elliptical 
carriage-ways leading to the portico, gives access to the build¬ 
ing, which forms a parallelogram externally 243 feet by 108, 
and internally 198 feet by 102. At the southern end are two 
lofty square towers, displaying Corinthian pilasters at the 
angles, and rising from each side of an ample Ionic portico, 
crowned with a triangular pediment, with double ranges of 
fluted columns with cablings, which, as the church stands on 
the brow of a hill, produce a grand effect, viewing it from the 

(l) A deviation is here made from the limits of this arrondissement 
by introducing a notice of some of the objects that lie out of it; but this 
the visitor will find calculated for his convenience; that portion of the 
third arrondissement which lies north of the boulevard containing very 
few objects of interest. 0 J 


ST. VINCENT DE PAULE. 217 

rue Hauteville or the rue Lafayette. The attic above the pedi¬ 
ment terminates in a graceful balustrade, on the plinths of 
which are statues of the four Evangelists, by MM. Valois, Foya- 
tier, and Bruau. The statues of St. Paul and St. John the Baptist 
are seen in the niches of the towers. Doric pilasters adorn the 
mam walls externally; the northern end displays two tiers of 
pilasters, the lower Doric, the upper Corinthian, supporting a 
li langular pediment. A splendidly gilt iron railing surrounds 
t ic steps ol the principal front. The principal entrance under 
Hie portico displays beautiful bronze gates, representing in dif¬ 
ferent coinparlmenfs Christ and the apostles. Above the enla- 
blaluie of the portal, the Holy Trinity, painted on a species of 
enamel, not unlike porcelain, and bearing a close resemblance 
to the lresco style, is the work of the inventor, M. Hachelte. 
It is in contemplation to fill the panels on either side of the 
portal with similar pointings.— Interior. Over the portal, the 
cornice and jambs of which are profusely sculptured and gilt, 
is the organ, and a circular window, representing in stained 
glass St. Vincent de Paule surrounded by the Sisters of Charity. 
The body of the church is divided by four euslyle rows of 
eleven Ionic columns each, into a nave and four aisles; the 
side aisles are each separated by richly-gilt bronze railings into 
four lateral chapels, and similar railings line the intervals of 
the columns throughout the church, and divide the nave from 
the semi-circular choir, which is surmounted by a semi-cupola 
pierced with a skylight, and supported by fourteen Ionic co¬ 
lumns. An arch 60 feet in height, richly sculptured on either 
surface, gives access to it from the nave. The stalls of the 
choir are richly carved in oak with figures of saints, and the 
same taste is observable in the decorations of the pulpit and 
other wood-furniture of the church. Sixteen gilt candelabra 
of exquisite workmanship are placed along the stalls, and four 
colossal ones with foliaged stems stand before the high altar, 
which consists of an arch and pediment resting upon six clus¬ 
tered and richly foliaged columns. The altar-piece is a Crucifix 
oil wood, and the table of the altar is adorned with a bas-relief 
of the Last Supper. Behind the choir is the Lady Chapel, with 
a beautiful image of the Virgin and Saviour on stained glass in 
the window. The lateral chapels also have stained windows, 
severally representing, in the eastern aisle : St. Francis de Sales, 
Ste. Elizabeth, St. Marlin, and the Baptism of Christ; in the 
western one, the Saviour, St. Denis, Ste. Clotilde, and St. Charles 
Borromeo. The chapels are covered with bays of roofing, 
painted and gilt; and in keeping with these is the roof of the 
nave, supported by eleven plain triangular trusses, formed of 
tie-beams and rafters, and resting over the gallery of the nave 

19 


218 


SECOND ARRONDISSEMENT. 


fronted by Corinthian columns; its frieze displays in painted 
medallions the portraits of canonized pon tiffs. No oil-paintings 
are visible in this church, but other decorations are in prepa¬ 
ration for this sanctuary, which approaches as closely as Notre 
Dame de Lorette to the gaudy style of the Italian churches. 
The architects of this church are Messrs. Lepere and Hiltorf, 
who have employed all the resources of the Ionic order on its 
elegant exterior. In 1845 the Municipal Council of Paris voted 
200,000 fr. for the interior decorations of this church, which is 
one of the most beautiful in Paris, and wilt amply repay the 
stranger’s curiosity. 

Behind this church is a large tract of ground fast covering 
with houses, called the Clos St. Lazare, from having been once 
the property of the convent of the Lazarisls, in the rue du 
Faubourg St. Denis. Here, in the rue du Nord, is the handsome 
station of the Great Northern railroad. An hospital is also in 
course of construction here. Five millions of francs have been 
voted by the Municipality of Paris for this edifice; it will con¬ 
tain COO beds, and bear the name of VHopital Louis Philippe. 

In the rue du faubourg Poissonniere, near the rue Lafayette, 
is a large barrack for inlanlry; the central compartment over 
the gateway is ornamented with military trophies. Lower 
down in the same street, on the western side, at No. 23, is the 

Garbe-Meuble de la Couronne. — Formerly there existed near 
the Louvre a building where the furniture, jewels, etc., of the 
crown were deposited. In 1760, when the two edifices were 
erected on the north side of the Place de la Concorde, that 
nearest the Tuileries was destined to receive these valuable 
objects. At the Revolution, the property contained in the Garde- 
Meuble was of immense value; but the most costly objects were 
dispersed during the troubles of that period. Under Napoleon 
the building in the Place Louis XV. was assigned to the Ministry 
of the Marine, and the Garde-Meuble was established at 6, rue 
des Champs Elysees, from whence it was removed in 1826 to 
the rue du Faubourg Poissonniere. It contains all furniture of 
the crown not in immediate use, the jewels, the regalia, and 
other precious articles. An inspection of its contents would be 
highly interesting, particularly to the antiquarian visitor; but 
no one is admitted without a special permission from M. VIn- 
ten da 7it de la Liste Civile, 9, Place Venddme, rarely obtained 
Annexed to this building is the Conservatoire de Musiqite. (See 
JfS® 83 ') entrance is Ionic, and surmounted by statues of 
the Muses of Tragedy and Music, and those of Sappho and Or- 
pieus. ln the court is a small Theatre, which is denominated 
the Salle des Menus Plaisirs, the use of which is sometimes 
given to artists gratis for concerts and also for balls. 



BOULEVARD DES ITALIENS. 219 

There are everal handsome houses in the rue du Faubourg 
Poissonniere; particularly No. GO, the gateway of which is 
Hanked by bold Ionic columns. The rue Bergere, leading to 
the rue du Faubourg Montmartre, will bring the visitor to the 
Boulevard Montmartre, where, at No. 10, the visitor will see a 
new and very elegant passage, opened in 1847, called Passage 
Jouffroy, which leads to another, called Passage Verdean, both 
erected on part of the garden of an hotel which belonged to 
the rich banker Aguado, and which was sold at his death. 
Opposite, on the southern side of the boulevard, is the pretty 
lillle Thedtre des Varietes. (See Theatres.) 

Beyond is the Boulevard des Italiens, one of the most fashion¬ 
able parts of Paris, and now, from the style of the buildings 
lately erected, also one of the handsomest. On the north side 
is Tortoni’s coffee-house, also the Cafe de Paris. Near it is a 
house called the Maison Doree, which, from its architectural 
adornment, is much admired, and well worthy of inspection. 
A short distance from this, in the rue LafFilte, (1) on the right 
hand side, Nos. 15 and 19, are to he seen the two splendid ho¬ 
tels of the Messrs. Rothschild, which for taste and magnificence 
of internal lilting up surpass, with one or two exceptions, every 
other in Paris. Some well-known restaurants, much frequented 
by the fashionables of Paris, are to be found on this Boulevard. 
In the rue Lepelletier is the Academie Royale de Musique, or 
French Opera; and on the opposite side of the Boulevard is the 
Opera-Comique. (See Theatres.) Behind the former of these 
two theatres, in the rue Chauchat, is a large building, with a 
Doric portal encased under a massive arch, formerly used as a 
warehouse for the octroi, and now converted into a church for 
Protestants; it is called tiglise tvangelique de la Redemption. 
(See p. 94.) Opposite is the Mairie of the 2d arrondissement. 

(1) This street has changed its name with all the revolutions in France 
for the last sixty years. It was first called Rue d'Artois, in honour of 
the Comte d’Arlois, whose two brothers had also their streets, the rue 
du Dauphin, and the rue de Provence. The municipality of Paris changed 
its title to the Rue Cerutli, in memory of the celebrated Abbe of that, 
name, editor of a revolutionary paper called the “Feuille Villageoise,” 
and friend of Mirabeau and Talleyrand. His house was the lirst in the 
street, where the Maison Doree now stands. The rue Cerutti extended 
no further than the rue de Provence, and was terminated by a splendid 
hotel and grounds successively occupied by M. Thelusson, the rich 
banker, and Murat. This was purchased by a tailor named Berchut and 
demolished, and on its site built the continuation of the street and the 
church Notre Dame de Lorelte. In 1 8 1 5 it became once more the Rue 
d'Artois, and remained so till the Revolution of 1830, when it received 
its present name, the hotel of M. LafTitte, situated at the corner of (he 
rue de Provence, haviug been the centre of operations on that occasion. 





220 SECOND ARRONDISSEMENT. 

The stranger is recommended to examine the fronts of the 
houses, erected in 183G, 1837, and 1838, at the top of the rue 
Richelieu, on part of the site of the Hotel Frascati, a celebrated 
gaming-house, and then to pass, by the rue St. Marc, into the 
rue Neuve Vivienne. The shops of this quarter display great 
elegance and taste. Parallel to the rue Vivienne is the Passage 
des Panoramas, the most brilliant and frequented in the winter 
evenings of all the galleries of Paris. 

Descending the rue Vivienne, we arrive at the Place de la 
Bourse, on the west side of which is the Thedtre du Vaude¬ 
ville. (See Theatres.) Opposite stands 

The Exchange, or La Bourse.— The capital of France, though 
rich in other public buildings, was until within twenty years 
without an “ Exchange.” Meetings of merchants for purposes of 
commercial intercourse were held regularly for the first lime 
in 1724, at the Hotel Mazarin, rue Neuve des Petits Champs, 
the residence of Law, the financier. During the Revolution 
they were removed to the Church des Petits Peres, then to the 
Palais Royal, and next to a temporary building in the rue 
Feydeau. The want, however, of an edifice specially devoted 
to such purposes was much felt; and the suppression of the 
convent des Filles St. Thomas presented a site in every respect 
adapted for such a building. M. Brongniart was charged to 
furnish the plans, and the first stone of the Bourse was laid 
on the 24th of March, 1808. The works proceeded with activity 
till 1814, when they were suspended; they were subsequently 
resumed, and this beautiful structure was completed in 182G. 
Brongniart dying in 1813, the works proceeded under the di¬ 
rection of Labarre. The form of the Exchange is a parallelo¬ 
gram, of 212 feet by 12G. It is surrounded by a range of 
CG Corinthian columns, supporting an entablature and a 
masked attic, and forming a covered gallery, which is ap¬ 
proached by a flight of steps extending the whole length of the 
western front. To the intercolumnialions of the facade corre¬ 
spond two ranges of windows, separated by a Doric entablature 
and surmounted by a decorated frieze. Over the entrance is 
inscribed :— Bourse et Tribunal de Commerce. The roof of this 
edifice is entirely formed of iron and copper. The Salle de la 
Bourse in the centre of the building, on the ground floor, where 
stock-brokers and merchants meet, is 116 feet in length, by 76 
in breadth. It is of the Doric order, and surrounded by two 
tiers of arcades, the basements of which, as well as the sides 
of the hall, are of marble. Below the upper cornice are in¬ 
scribed in separate medallions the names of the principal mer¬ 
cantile cities of the world. Over the central arch is a clock, 
and opposite a dial plate marking the motions of a weather- 



THE EXCHANGE. 


221 

vane outside. The hall is lit from the roof, and a deeply-coved 
ceiling is covered with admirable monochrome drawings, pro¬ 
ducing altogether the effect of bas-reliefs; the figures are about 
10 feel in height. The number of compartments is 10, five on 
each side, and three at each end. They were executed by 
M. Abel de Pujol and M. Meynier. The subjects are On the 
left, Commercial France accepting the Tribute of the four 
parts of the World—Europe—Asia—the personification of the 
town of Nantes—that of Rouen. In front, The city of Paris 
delivering the keys to the God of Commerce, and inviting Com¬ 
mercial Justice to enter the walls prepared for her (l)—the 
personification of the town of Lille—that of Bordeaux. On the 
right, the Union of Commerce and the Arts giving birth to 
the prosperity of the State—the personification of Africa— 
America—Lyons—Bayonne. Above the entrance, The City of 
Paris receiving from the nymph of the Seine and the Genius of 
the Ourcq the productions of Abundance—personifications of 
Strasbourg—Marseilles. The pavement of this hall, which will 
contain 2000 persons, is entirely of marble. At its eastern end is 
a circular space, called the parquet, railed round exclusively 
for the stock-brokers. Behind this is a room where the stock¬ 
brokers assemble before business. To the right are the cham¬ 
bers of the committee and syndicate of the agents de change, 
and of the courtiers de commerce. On the left a wide staircase 
leads first to the offices for transfers, then to a spacious gallery, 
supported by Doric columns, and to the Hall of the Tribunal of 
Commerce, with its offices, etc. The ceiling of this court is 
painted with suitable designs. From the gallery a corridor, on 
the ground floor, extends all round, and communicates with 
the Chamber of Commerce, the Court of Bankruptcy, and other 
public offices: this gallery commands the best view of the in¬ 
terior. The hours of business are from 1 to 3 for public stocks, 
and 5 '/ 2 for other business, but the gallery is open to the public 
from 9 to a quarter past 5. The clock under the peristyle is 
illuminated at night. Ladies were formerly admitted to the 
Bourse, but as it was found to encourage a passion for 
gambling among the gentler sex, they are not now generally 
allowed to enter during hours of business without a permis¬ 
sion from M. le Commissaire de la Bourse. This beautiful 
edifice may well serve as a model for all similar establish¬ 
ments; its total cost was 8,149,000 fr. There is also a public 
library here, called Bibliotheque du CornTnerce^ open daily, 

festivals excepted, from 12 to 4. 

North of the Royal Exchange, at No. 2, Place de la Bourse, 

(1) Previous to the Revolution of 1830 the subject of this compart¬ 
ment was Charles X. presenting the New Exchange to the City of Paris, 



SECOND ARRONDISSEMENT. 


222 

are large auction-rooms, where works of art and vertu, paint¬ 
ings, etc., are sold daily. 

The Place de la Bourse leads to the rue Vivienne, where, at 
No. 18, will he found the Libraries and News Room of Messrs. 
Galignani and Co. At this European establishment is published 
the daily English journal, Galignani’s Messenger, so well 
known throughout the Continent. Nearly opposite is the rue 
Colbert, leading to the rue and place Richelieu. 

Place Richelieu. —On this open space the French Opera-house 
formerly stood; but after the assassination of the Duke deBerri 
at the entrance of that theatre in 1820, it was determined that 
the building should be removed, and a subscription was raised, 
to which the municipality contributed, for erecting an expia¬ 
tory monument on the site. To this Louis XVIII. withholding 
his sanction, it was commenced under Charles X. This chapel, 
intended to be very magnificent, and to contain a monument 
and statue of the duke, was never finished, the revolution 
of 1830 having put a stop to the works. In 1835 it followed 
the fate of its predecessor, the Opera-house. The site was then 
laid out and planted by order of the municipality, and in the 
centre a splendid fountain erected, at a cost of about 100,000 fr. 
It consists of an ample octagonal basin of stone, out of which 
rises a stone pedestal, with 4 bronze genii riding on spouting 
dolphins, supporting a patera of bronze edged with human 
heads pierced for the water, and the signs of the zodiac. In 
the centre of this stand four bronze caryatides, representing the 
Seine, the Loire, the Saone, and the Garonne, supporting an¬ 
other tazza with leopards’ heads around the edge, surmounted 
by an amphora adorned with four human heads, out of which the 
water flows, and falls over the figures into the basins beneath. 
It was designed by M. Visconti, the justly celebraled architect. 

The long inelegant-looking edifice in front of this Place, on 
the eastern side of the street, No. 58, is the. 

Bibliotheque Royale. —From the introduction of Christianity 
into 1 ranee to the time of St. Louis, the few hooks existing in 
the kingdom belonged to the numerous convents which had 
been successively established, and were confined to copies of 
the Bible, treaties of the fathers, canons, missals, and a few 
Greek and Latin authors. St. Louis caused copies to be made 
of all these manuscripts, and had them arranged in a room 
attached to the Sainle Chapelle. This collection the kin 0- 
bequeathed to several monasteries. From St. Louis to king 
John, we have no historical notice of any royal library; and 
even that possessed by the latter monarch did not exceed eMit 
or ten volumes. Charles V., his successor, who patronized lite¬ 
rature, caused many works to lie copied, and others to be 








BIBLIOTHEQUE ROYALE. 223 

translated; with these, and some that were presented to him 
he formed a library, consisting of 910 volumes. They were 
deposited in a tower of the Louvre, called la Tour de la Li- 
brairie, and consisted of illuminated missals and other religious 
works, legends of miracles, lives of saints, and treatises Spon 
astrology, geomancy, and palmistry. To afford literary persons 
an opportunity at all times of consulting this library’ a silver 
lamp was kept constantly burning. This collection was partly 
dispersed during the reign of Charles VI. The remainder disap¬ 
peared under the regency of the Duke of Bedford, who pur¬ 
chased it for 1200 livres, and sent the greater part to England. 
Louis XL collected the books scattered through the various 
royal palaces, io which he added several other collections* 
and, printing having been invented in his reign, he purchased 
copies of all the hooks that were published. The princes John 
and Charles d’AngouISme, upon their return from England, 
after twenty-live years’ captivity, founded two libraries, the 
one at Blois, the other at AngoulOme, consisting of books’col¬ 
lected during their residence in England, including most of 
those carried off by the Duke of Bedford. Charles V11L, in 1495, 
added to these collections the books he had brought from 
Naples after his conquest of that kingdom. In J49G, Louis XII. 
caused the library of the Louvre to be transported to Blois, and 
also added to the collection the libraries of the Sforza and 
Visconti from Pavia, Petrarch’s collection, and the cabinet of 
Gruthuse, a Flemish gentleman. In 1544, Francis I. had the 
whole removed to Fontainebleau, and the catalogue of that 
date gives, as the total ofthe collection, 1890 volumes, amongst 
which were 900 printed volumes, and 38 or 39 Greek MSS., 
brought from Naples and deposited at Blois by Lascaries. This 
monarch added greatly to the royal library, and first began 
the formation of its celebrated cabinet of medals. Henry II. 
decreed that a bound copy, on vellum of every book printed 
should be deposited in the royal library. In 1527, by the con¬ 
fiscation of the effects of the Connelable de Bourbon, the li¬ 
brary was augmented; but it suffered considerably from the 
Ligueurs, who carried off some of the most valuable manu¬ 
scripts. Catherine de'Medicis bequeathed to the royal library 
a collection of medals and manuscripts which she had brought 
from Florence. In 1594, Henry IV. ordered the library to be 
transferred from Fontainebleau to Paris, and placed in the 
College de Clermont (now College de Louis le Grand), which 
was left unoccupied by the Jesuits, who had recently been 
expelled from France. That order being recalled in 1(104, their 
college was restored, and the king’s library transferred to the 
convent of the Cordeliers. Under Louis XIII. the royal library 


224 SECOND ARRONDISSEMENT. 

was enriched by many valuable collections, and removed to a 
spacious bouse in the rue de la Harpe; it then consisted of 
16,746 volumes of manuscript and printed books. During the 
reign of Louis XIV., and the administration of Colbert and 
Louvois, the treasures of the royal library were augmented 
beyond any thing previously known ; at the same time it was 
rendered accessible to the public. The bouse in the rue de la 
Harpe being found much too small, Louis XIV. formed the 
design of tranferring the library to the Louvre; but, in 1666, 
Colbert bought two bouses adjoining bis residence in the rue 
Vivienne, to which the books were removed. This extensive 
collection, daily augmenting by presents, purchases, etc., con¬ 
tained at the death of Louis XIV., in 1715, more than 70,000 
volumes. Louvois bad determined to establish the royal library 
in the Place Vendome, but bis death defeated the project. 
Under the regency of the Duke of Orleans, the library con¬ 
tinuing to increase, and the houses in the rue Vivienne being 
found inadequate, it was resolved to remove it to the immense 
hotel formerly occupied by Cardinal Mazarin, embracing the 
entire space between the rue Vivienne, the rue de Richelieu, 
the rue Neuve des Petits Champs, and the rue Colbert. Car¬ 
dinal Mazarin having married his niece Horlensia de Mancini, 
in 1661, to the Duke de La Meilleraie, constituted him his sole 
heir on condition that he would bear his arms and name. On 
the death of the cardinal the palace being divided, that part 
towards the rue de Richelieu came into the possession of his 
nephew, the Marquis de Mancini, and was called Hotel de 
Nevers. The other part, facing the rue Neuve des Petits Champs, 
fell to the share of the Duke de Mazarin (de La Meilleraie)’ 
and bore the name of Hotel de Mazarin , till 1719 , when it 
was bought by the regent, and given to the India Company. 
The exchange was afterwards established there, and subse¬ 
quently the treasury. On the failure of Law’s financial system, 
in 1721, the Hotel de Nevers, in which his bank had been esta¬ 
blished, being left unoccupied, the regent determined to 
transfer the royal library to it, where it has remained ever 
since, the buildings of the Hotel de Mazarin having been annexed 
to it, upon the removal of the treasury in 1829 to the rue de 
Rivoli. Under Louis XV. the collection was greatly augmented, 
the number of printed volumes at his death being more than 
100,000. Upon the suppression of the monasteries at the Revo¬ 
lution, all the manuscripts and printed volumes belongin'* to 
them were deposited in the library, which took the tittle of 
Bibliotheque Nationale. During the consulate and empire it 
was enriched by treasures from the Vatican and other famous 
libraries of Europe. The occupation of Paris by the allied 





BIBLIOTHEQUE ROYALE. 225 

armies, in 1815, caused the greater part of these to he restored, 
and the library, then called Bibliotheque Impe'riale, resumed 
its title of Bibliotheque du Boi. An annual grant is made by 
the government for the purchase of books, manuscripts, en¬ 
gravings, maps, and antiquities. The building itself is destitute 
of all external ornament, presenting little more to the street 
than a dead wall. Its length is 540 feet, its breadth 130. The 
interior is occupied by a court, 300 feet in length by 90 in 
breadth, surrounded with buildings presenting two styles of 
architecture, one that of the ancient Hotel de Nevers, the other 
of more modern dale. At the extremity is a small garden, with 
a statue of Charles V. and a fountain, the bibliotheque Royale 
is divided into live distinct sections : 1. The library of printed 
works, 2. The manuscripts, genealogies, etc.; 3. Medals, 
antique gems, etc.; 4. Engravings; 5. the zodiac and antique 
marbles. The visitor, in ascending the grand staircase, will 
observe a semicircular fragment of ancient mosaic representing 
Thetis and a Triton, with the still legible inscription in Greek 
characters : OGTIC TPITCON ; also a piece of tapestry 
of great interest, having formed part of the furniture of the 
chateau of the Chevalier Bayard, and being a very curious 
representation of the costume of that age. On the first floor 
commences the public suite of the library. In the first room is 
the model in plaster bronzed of the admirable statue of Vol¬ 
taire, by Houdon, which ornaments the vestibule of the Theatre 
Francais, and a bust of Louis Philippe. The second contains a 
series of specimens of ancient ornamental bookbindings, among 
which may be remarked a rich Jesuit missal embossed in sil¬ 
ver. In the third are displayed specimens of printing, from the 
invention of printing to the present day; among these, and 
the most curious, are, an Apocalypse, printed from solid blocks 
of wood, with coloured cuts; a folio Bible, printed by Guttem- 
berg, and a Psalter, printed at Menlz by Fust and Schaffer, 
bearing the date 1457, being the first book printed with a dale; 
also a model of the Egyptian pyramids, with the surrounding 
country, very accurately executed. Passing to the transverse 
gallery, will be seen two models in porcelain, brought from 
Canton, and presented to Louis XIV., of the celebrated Por¬ 
celain Towers of China; also a piece of sculpture in bronze, 
executed in 1721, by Titon du Tillet, called the “ French Par¬ 
nassus,” its summits and slopes covered with figures in classic 
attire, representing that host of men of genius who have con¬ 
ferred an undying fame on the literature of this country, each 
occupying an elevation proportionate to his merit. There are 
also busts of Jean Paul and Jerome Bignon, and of Van Praet, 


SECOND ARRONDISSEMENT. 


226 

besides a full-length picture of Louis Philippe, swearing to the 
Charter. Next is the public reading-gallery, which is generally 
crowded by the studious of all classes, among whom will be 
seen several ladies. Tables occupy the centre. The visitors are 
obliged to provide themselves with pens and paper. No conver¬ 
sation is permitted. To procure books the title must be given 
in writing to one of the librarians. Literary persons well 
recommended are allowed to have books out of the library. 
The gallery is artificially heated in winter by stoves placed 
in isolated cellars, to avoid llie danger of lire. In an adjoining 
gallery are two immense globes, executed at Venice, by Pierre 
Coronelli, by order of the Cardinal d’Estrees, who in 1G83 pre¬ 
sented them to Louis XIV., to whom they were dedicated. They 
are nearly 12 feet in diameter, but are more remarkable for 
their size than for their accuracy. This section of the library 
occupies llie ground and first floors and several galleries above : 
the number of volumes it contains is not accurately ascertained, 
but it is calculated at more than 1,400,000, including duplicates 
and pamphlets. The works are arranged according to the system 
explained by Debure in the “Bibliotheque Instructive,” and 
are kept in wired bookcases. On the ground floor are modern 
folio editions, on vellum, etc., or copies remarkable for the 
richness of their binding. Returning through the gallery “ du 
Parnasse Francais,” the visitor will enter, by a door on its ex¬ 
treme right, the 

Cabinet of Medals and Antiques, which - forms a distin¬ 
guished part of this noble establishment. The total number of 
medals and coins is computed at 150,000. Among them are 
many exceedingly rare, and some unique : the series of Roman 
coins is very remarkable. At the Revolution, all the antiques 
in the treasury of the Sainte Chapelle and in that of the Abbey 
of St. Denis were added to this cabinet; it also includes the 
superb collection of the Comte de Caylus. In a large glass case 
against the wall to the left on entering the visitor will observe 
two large carved silver discs ; the lesser one, found in the Rhone 
near Avignon, is improperly called the shield of Scipio; the 
larger, found in the Dauphine, is called the shield of Hannibal. 
Some curious dyplics carved in ivory, Indian chess-men, and a 
Babylonian relic, being a large oval black marble carved with 
characters hitherto unexplained, will attract attention. Eight 
glass cases with cameos, seals, intaglios, and similar minute 
objects, stand in the windows : Nos. GO, 201, 210, 215, 447, 
4G3,4G8, in those to the left, may deserve particular inspection; 
in those to the right are curious abraxas, talismans, and orien¬ 
tal inscriptions. Three more glass cases occupy the middle of 
the room; that nearest to the entrance contains modern ca- 


BIBLIOTIIEQUE HO YALE. 227 

nieos of beautiful execution; the furthermost contains ancient 
ones; that in the middle, the richest of all, contains, at the ex¬ 
tremity nearest the entrance, various curious objects found in 
the tomb of Childeric, and some tryptics delicately carved in 
wood; at the opposite extremity is a large cameo representing 
the apotheosis ot Augustus. In the other divisions of this case, 
the vase of the Ptolemies, marked I. 4, the statue of Mercury, 
I., also Nos. A. 1, VI., I. 5, and XXIV., deserve attention. Eight 
suits of complete armour, the sword of the Order of Malta, and 
the full-length portraits of Louis XIV., and XVIII. are themore 
prominent decorations of the room; which received in 1845 a 
most valuable addition in twenty antique vases sent to the King 
by Prince Torlonia, Duke of Ceri, and which were found in 
1835, in the Necropolis of ancient Agylla, afterwards called 
Caere, in Etruria. These are unfortunately not public, from 
want of space. (1) Returning to the head of the grand staircase 
is seen, in the centre of a small square cabinet, the porphyry 
baignoire of Clovis, in which tradition represents him to have 
been baptised. The English visitor will be not a little amused 
by a Bulletin published at Canton during the late war for the 
edification of the Chinese, containing a most circumstantial and 
faithful account of the total destruction of the English fleet by 
the Celestial junks, and winding up with a narrative of the 
capture and public execution of Commodore Bremer : it is or¬ 
namented with a rude coloured engraving of an English frigate 
and steamer. From this cabinet a door on the left communi¬ 
cates with the 

Collection of Manuscripts, arranged in galleries on the first 
and second floors : those of the first floor alone are open to 
the public. They consist of about 125,000 volumes, in Greek, 
French, Latin, Oriental, and other languages, including 30,000 
which relate to the history of France. The catalogue of the 
manuscripts alone fills 24 volumes, besides ample supplements 
to each. Passing on through the several rooms, the stranger 
enters a superb gallery, which existed in the time of Cardinal 
Mazarin. Its length is 140 feet, and its breadth 22. The ceiling, 
painted in fresco, by Romanelli, in 1651, represents various 
subjects of fabulous history, divided into compartments. In this 
gallery are preserved very valuable and curious manuscripts. 
Among them is a Statement of Receipts and Expenses under 
Philippe Ie Bel, in ihe 14Hi century, on waxen tablets; the 
manuscripts of Galileo; letters from Henry IV. to Gabrielle 
d’Estrees; the prayer-books of St. Louis and Anne of Brittany, 

(i) It is worthy of observation that, during the pillage of the Revolu¬ 
tion, the Royal Library, notwithstanding its valuable collection of 
gems, medals, coins, etc., was always respected, 


228 SECOND ARRONDISSEMENT. 

and one which belonged in succession to Charles V., Charles IX., 
and Henry HI., and hears their signatures; all beautifully writ¬ 
ten on vellum, and richly illuminated; the manuscript of Tele- 
machus, in Fenelon’s own hand; autograph memoirs of Louis 
XIV.; a manuscript of Josephus; a volume of 300 pages con¬ 
taining the names of all the victims of Robespierre, etc. The 
most ancient manuscripts now existing in this collection are 
some missals of the fifth and sixth centuries. Among the foreign 
manuscripts are some Coptic, Persian, Indian, Arabic, Ethio¬ 
pian, Chinese, Japanese, Armenian, Siamese, etc., remarkable 
for their beauty. A collection of autograph letters, of Henry IV., 
Louis XIV., Turenne, Mme. de Maintenon, Voltaire, Mine, de 
Sevigne, Racine, Moliere, Corneille, Boileau, Bossuet, Mme de 
LaYalliere, Franklin, Rousseau, are arranged under glass frames 
for the inspection of visitors. At the extremity of the gallery 
will be observed a very interesting historic record of the year 
781, in Chinese and Syriac, found at Canton in 1628, giving an 
account of the arrival of Syrian missionaries in China, and of 
the propagation of Christianity in that country in the seventh 
and eighth centuries. In the first room to the right are some 
very costly ancient bindings. Returning to the end of this gal- 
lery, a narrow flight of stairs conducts to a numerous suite of 
rooms on the entresol, containing the 
Collection of Engravings.— About 1576, under the reign of 
Henry III., Claude Mangis, Abbot of St. Ambrose and almoner 
to the Queen, first conceived the idea of forming a cabinet of 
engravings. His connection with Marie de Medicis putting him 
frequently in communication with the Florentines, he enriched 
his collection with the works of the best Italian engravers. Jean 
Delorme, physician to the queen, having inherited the collec¬ 
tion of the abbot, added it to another collection formed by the 
Abbe de Merolles, both of which, being purchased by Colbert 
in 1667, were placed in the rue Richelieu. The abbe’s collection 
comprised 440 volumes, containing about 125,000 prints, and to 
this were afterwards added other acquisitions—that of Gai- 
gnieres, in 1711; of Beringhen, in 1731, of Marshal d’Uxelles, 
in 1753 ; of Begon, in 1770; and several others less considerable! 
The number of plates at present composing the cabinet amount 
to 1,300,000, contained in upwards of9,600 volumes or portfolios. 

In the first rooms are exhibited the principal productions of 
the engravers from the 15lh century down to the present time. 
The 15th century is represented by the works of 16 engravers; 
among which may be remarked an anonymous piece, of the 
date 1400, as well as the productions of Maso Finiguerra, Martin 
Schcengauer, and Israel Van Mechen. The engravers of the 16lh 
century whose works are exhibited here are 14 in number, com- 




BIBLIOTHEQUE ROYALE. 229 

prising Albert Durer, Marc-Antony Raimondi of Bologna, etc.; 
besides a piece curious as being the production of Jean Duvet, 
the first French engraver, born in 1485. Fifty-one engravers, 
among whom are some of the celebrated painters of Germany 
and Italy, as well as some French engravers of merit, form the 
historical series for the 17th century, and their works include 
some magnificent plates of the age of Louis XIV. The series for 
the 18lh and 19th centuries are too numerous and too well 
known to need description. Persons desirous of examining the 
volumes should ask, in the schools of Italy, for the works of 
Michael Angelo, Raphael, Titian, Correggio, the Carracci, and 
Guido;—in those of Germany, Albert Durer and Holbein;—in 
those of the Netherlands, Rembrandt, Rubens, and Van Dyck;— 
in those of France, Poussin, Le Brun, Le Sueur, and Rigaud. 
Amongst the foreign engravers, the works of Raimondi, Hollar, 
Crispin de Pas, Goltzius, Bloemart, and Romain de Hogue; 
among the French, those of Callot, Mellan, Silveslre, Nanleuil, 
Picart, Le Clerc, Edelinck, Audran, Le Bas, Wille, Moreau, and 
Duplessis Bertaux. In natural history there are many plates of 
birds and plants, beautifully coloured, such as the pigeons of 
Madame Knip, the birds of paradise of Levaillant, the flowers 
of Prevost, the liliacese and roses of Redoute. The portraits, to 
the number of 90,000, are divided in each country according to 
the rank or profession of the individuals, and are classed in 
chronological or alphabetical order. The series of the costumes 
of various countries and different ages cannot be viewed with¬ 
out interest. The history of France fills 85 portfolios up to 1789, 
and 50 more have been added since that time, and when com¬ 
pletely classified will form a collection of 150 volumes. The 
topographical collection is very curious and complete, contain¬ 
ing about 300,000 maps, charts, views, etc.; the topography of 
Paris alone occupies 50 large folio volumes. More than 500 fo¬ 
lios are filled with the plans, general views, and details of 
every place of note. Another apartment is solely dedicated to 
civil, military, and marine maps and plans. In the rooms are 
tables and seats, for those who wish to inspect the engravings. 
On application to one of the superintendants any volume or 
portfolio is readily supplied.—Descending to the court, opposite 
to the gateway, and close to the trellis of the garden, is the 
entrance to the 

Gallery of Ancient Sculpture , called Salle du Zodiaque, occu¬ 
pying a room on the ground floor. The most remarkable object 
it contains is the Egyptian Zodiac of Dendarah, supposed to 
have formed the centre of the ceiling of a temple. The Bactrian 
inscriptions, discovered near the Indus, and an ancient dial, 
found at Delos, will also fix the visitor’s attention, as well as 

20 


230 , SECOND ARRONDISSEMENT. 

various mummies, idols, antique statues, etc. At certain periods 
of the year, indicated by an annual programme, public lectures 
are delivered here. (See page 81.) 

In the court yard to the right of the entrance the visitor will 
find a room newly fitted up, in the exact proportions of the 
Egyptian original, with the hieroglyphic inscriptions and graven 
ligures representing the ancestry of Thoutmes III., found in his 
sepulchre at Karnac. The figures are sixty in number; the 
chamber has been named Salle des Ancelres. 

Visitors are admitted only on Tuesdays and Fridays, from 10 
to 3; students every day except Sundays and holidays. There 
is a vacation from the 1st of September to October 15, as also 
for a week before and after Easter. 

In the same street, corner of rue Fontaine Moliere, stands a 
neat monument erected by public subscription to the memory 
of the immortal Moliere, the greatest comic writer that France, 
or perhaps the world, ever produced. It consists of a niche with 
two detached Corinthian columns on each side, surmounted by 
a semicircular pediment, ornamented with sculpture and dra¬ 
matic attributes. A statue of Moliere, in bronze, is placed in 
the niche on a semicircular pedestal, in a sitting posture, and 
in the attitude of meditation. On eacli side of the statue, and 
in tront of the columns, are allegorical figures with extended 
wings, representing, one the humourous, and the other the 
serious, character of his plays, and in the act of looking up at 
the statue. They each bear a scroll, on which are inscribed in 
chronological order all ttie pieces written by Moliere. The base¬ 
ment is richly sculptured, and at its foot is a semi-octagonal 
basin to receive the water, which issues from three lions’ heads. 
The inscriptions are : A Moliere. Ne d Paris, le 15 Janvier, 1622, 
et mort d Paris le 17 Fevrier , 1673, with the year 1844 over the 
niche. The monument is 50 feet high, by 20 feet wide, and is 
in the style of architecture of the time of Louis XIV. The Iota 
expense of it was 16S,OOOfr. Its inauguration took place on 
the 15th January 1844. 1 he Prefect of the Seine deposited a box 
containing a medal struck for the occasion, an account of the 
erection of the monument, the works of Moliere, and a history 
of his life. Four orations were delivered: by the Prefect, in 
the name ol the City of Paris; by the Director of the Academie 
Franchise; by one of the company of the Comedie Francaise; 
and by the President of ttie Subscription Committee. Deputa¬ 
tions from the society of Dramatic Artists, Men of Letters, and 
Students from the public schools, were also present. 

Nearly opposite, No. 34, stands the house in which Moliere 
died, on the second floor of which will be perceived a marble 


ST. ROCH. 231 

slab, bearing the inscription: Moliere estmort dans cette maison 
le IT fevrier 1G73, a Vdge de 51 ans. 

The short narrow street which runs from the rue Richelieu 
immediately opposite the Theatre Francais, to the rue St. Ho- 
nore, in an oblique direction, was in ancient days the site of 
an interesting historical event. During the career of Joan of 
Aic, the outer walls of Paris extended to the ground now oc¬ 
cupied by this street, still called Rue du Rempart, and where 
stood the ancient gale of St. Honore. After she had compelled 
the English to raise the siege of Orleans, Joan led the army to 
besiege Paris, still in the hands of the English. This spot was 
chosen as the most favourable for an assault; the Maid of Or¬ 
leans, coming to the edge of the ditch to sound its depth with 
her lance, was severely wounded, from a cross-bow; she, 
however, would not retire, but continued till night to direct 
the placing of the faggots by which it was to be crossed. 

The visitor will now proceed, along the rue St. Honore, to 

St. Roch, 29G, rue St. Honore, parish church of 2d arrondisse- 
ment.—The first stone of this church was laid by Louis XIV. 
and the Queen-dowager, Anne of Austria, in 1653; but the 
works proceeded slowly till 1720, when the financier Law gave 
100,000 livres towards the completion of the edifice, which 
however was not finished till 1740. The original designs for 
the body of the church w ere by Lemercier, those for the portal 
by De Cotie. The approach is by a flight of steps, extending 
the wdiole breadth of the church, and famous as the theatre of 
many a bloody scene during the Revolution. The mob crowded 
them to see Marie Antoinette led to execution; Bonaparte 
cleared them of that same mob with cannon during the Direc¬ 
tory, and in 1830 a stand was made there against the gendar¬ 
merie of Charles X. The portal is adorned with two ranges of 
columns of the Doric and Corinthian orders, surmounted by a 
pediment and cross; it is 84 feet in breadth, and 91 feel'in 
height to the summit of the cross. The body of the church is 
cruciform; the length of the nave is 90 feet, that of the choir 
G9, their breadth 42; aisles with chapels run along each side. 
The interior is adorned with pilasters of the Doric order; the 
piers of the arches are cased with marble at the base. On one 
of the w'alls that support the organ gallery is a marble mo¬ 
numental inscription erected by the Duke of Orleans, in 1821, 
to the memory of Pierre Corneille, who is buried here; on 
theolher is a similar tablet, recording the names of benefactors 
to the church, and of distinguished persons buried there, 
whose tombs were destroyed at the Revolution ; among them, 
that of the celebrated Abbe de l’Epee, founder of the Deaf and 
Dumb Institution. Beginning from the western aisle, we see 


232 SECOND ARRONDISSEMENT. 

above the lateral porch Isaiah, painted by Legendre, In the 
Chapelle des Fonts is a marble group of the Baptism of Christ, 
by Lemoine; and St. John preaching in the wilderness, hy 
Champmartin, a valuable painting. In the Chapel of St. Nicho¬ 
las is a fine picture of the Resurrection of Christ; and in that 
of the Entombment a painting of that subject by Perignon. In 
the next, is a painting of St. Sebastian, byRemy,anda curious 
picture presented by the Knights of St. Louis; likewise a mar¬ 
ble monument to the Abbe de l’Epee, erected at the expense 
of deaf and dumb persons educated at the institution. A plain 
sarcophagus supports his bust; the figures of two children are 
represented in the act of raising their eyes towards him with 
an expression of gratitude. The inscription is :—Viro admodum 
mirabili, sacerdoti de VEpe'e, qui fecit exemplo Salvatoris mu- 
tos loqui, cives Gallice hoc monumentum dedicarunt an. 1840. 
Natus an. 1712, mortuus an. 1789.—Near it is a black marble 
tablet, with the inscription :— A Eabbd de VEpde, les sourds- 
muets suddois reconnaissants. 1845.—Opposite is the pulpit, 
with statues of the Evangelists carved in oak; an angel supports 
the canopy. Next is the transept, with three statues, and a 
painting by Vien, representing St. Denis preaching. In the 
choir is an organ, which, on days of ceremony, alternates with 
a larger one and of finer tone erected over the principal en¬ 
trance. Following the aisle behind the choir, we find the cha¬ 
pel of St. Vincent dePaule; in the window is a small specimen 
of old stained glass, representing the Saviour reading to the 
Virgin and Joseph. Here begins the series of stations of the 
Via Crucis , consisting of bas-reliefs in plaster, continued along 
the church. In the Chapel of St. Joseph is a painting by Hau¬ 
ser, St. Joseph blessed by Christ; besides a window in stained 
glass, lepresenting the Virgin between two angels under a 
Gothic canopy, of beautiful execution. In the Chapel of St. 
Francois de Sales is a painting by Pernot; the saint assisting 
the inhabitants of Savoy in a severe winter. Behind the choir 
is a shrine of cedar of Lebanon, richly ornamented with gilt 
bronze mouldings. It rests upon a basement of costly varie¬ 
gated marble, and contains the relics belonging to the church. 
Opposite is the Lady Chapel, of an elliptical form, ornamented 
with Corinthian pilasters, and surmounted by a dome painted 
in ft esco by Pierre. On the altar is a group in white marble, 
by Anguier, which formerly decorated the altar of the Val de 
Giace. It iepresents the infant Jesus in the manger, accom¬ 
panied by the Virgin and Joseph, kneeling, and is a line piece 
of sculpture. At the entrance of the Chapel are four paintings 
namely, the Raising of Lazarus, by Men; Christ raising the 
daughter of Jairus, by Delorme; Christ driving the money- 


ST. ROCH. 233 

changers from the Temple, by Thomas; and Christ blessing in¬ 
fants, by \ ien. Returning to the aisle, we iind an Annuncia¬ 
tion, of the Italian school; Consolation of the Afflicted, by 
Sclmetz; and a Crucifixion, by Lombard, of 1G30. Imme¬ 
diately behind the Lady Chapel is that of the Saint Sacrement, 
magnificently decorated in representation of the Holy of Holies 
of llie Mosaic tabernacle; all the ornaments of the Jewish ri¬ 
tual are placed here, and the light of day is excluded by cur¬ 
tains of crimson silk. In the aisle is a votive picture of the Virgin 
Mary, of Czenstochov, imitating the style of the 14th century, 
and placed here in 1847 by the unfortunate Polish Exiles. Here 
the 12 tli station consists of an admirable monochrome fresco by 
Abel de Pujol, representing the Crucifixion, and imitating bas- 
relief to perfection. Next is a low vaulted chapel containing 
the Calvaire, with a Crucifix by Anguier, that formerly stood 
over the altar of the Sorbonne. Passing to the eastern side, we 
find a plaster group of the Entombment, and a painting by 
Demailly, Christ surrounded by angels, in the contiguous cha¬ 
pel. Next, in the aisle, is St. Francis distributing alms, a paint- 
ingbyOdier. In the Chapel ofSte. Cloliide is that saint praying, 
by Pernot. In the transept are three more statues, and an altar- 
piece by Doyen, the Cure of the Mat des Ardents, in 1230, 
through the intercession of Ste. Genevieve. Following the 
aisle, is the Chapel of the Dead; and in the two last chapels are 
monuments of the infamous Cardinal Dubois, the Dukes de 
Lesdiguieres and Crequi, Mignard the painter, Lenotre, the 
designer of the gardens of Versailles, Maupertuis, the Count de 
Harcourt, and the Marechal d’Asfeld. St. Koch, though not 
remarkable for any architectural beauty, is the richest church 
in Paris, and is at present distinguished as being that of the 
court; the Queen and the Royal family regularly attend divine 
service here, and on high festivals mass is celebrated with 
great pomp and solemnity. On these occasions, the music and 
singing are so remarkable that the influx of strangers is very 
considerable, and often excludes all possibility of entrance. 

In the rue d’Argenteuil, accessible by the rue des Frondeurs, 
at No. 18, is the house where Corneille died. It bears a black 
slab with an inscription, and has a bust of the poet in the court¬ 
yard bearing this motto, borrowed from the Cid : 

Je ne dois quA moi seul toute ma renommee. 


On entering this arrondissement by the rue Neuve des Petits 
Champs, the visitor will find on his left the Passages Vivienne 



THIRD ARRONDISSEMENT. 


234 

and Colbert; the latter is the liner, hut is to a great extent 
superseded by the former, which is one of the most crowded 
in the capital. The greater part of the eastern side of the rue 
Vivienne was formerly occupied by the hotel and gardens of 
‘‘the great Colbert.” From hence the visitor will proceed to the 

Place des Victoires.— This place formed in 1G85, by order 
of the Duke deLa Feuillade, was executed by Predot, after the 
designs of Mansart. Its form is circular, and its diameter is 240 
feet. The architecture is uniform, consisting of a range of 
Ionic pilasters, resting upon a basement of arcades. In the 
centre was a gilt pedestrian statue of Louis XIV., in his coro¬ 
nation robes, crowned by Victory, and treading a Cerberus 
beneath his feet. At the angles of the pedestal, four bronze 
figures of enslaved nations represented the power of the mon¬ 
arch and the success of his arms. In 1790, these figures were 
removed. The statue was destroyed on the 10th of August, 
1792, and the place took the name of Place des Victoires Na- 
tionales. The bronze bas-reliefs that adorned the pedestal are 
still preserved in the Louvre. A colossal bronze statue of Ge¬ 
neral Desaix was erected here in 180G, but was taken down in 
1814, and melted to form the statue of Henry IV. The present 
statue of Louis XIV., which was modelled by Bosio, and inau¬ 
gurated on the 261h of August, 1822, is a work of much excel¬ 
lence. The monarch, habited as a Roman Emperor, though 
with the perruque of his own time, and crowned with laurel, 
is well placed on the horse, which is full of vigour and anima¬ 
tion. The entire mass, weighing 1G,C00 lb., is supported by 
the hinder legs and tail. The pedestal is decorated with two 
bas-reliefs, representing the passage of the Rhine by Louis XIV., 
in 1G72, and the monarch on his throne distributing military 
decorations. Appropriate inscriptions are at each end of the 
pedestal; and the circular marble pavement on which it rests 
is surrounded by iron palisades. 

At the north-west corner of this place, a short street, bearing 
the strange name of rue Vide-Gousset, leads to the 

£glise des Petits Peres, or de Notre Dame des Victoires, 
Place des Petits Peres, 1 st district church of 3d arrondissement! 
This chuich, elected in 1G5G, after the designs of P. Lemuet, 
stands on the site of one dedicated by Louis XIII. to Notre 
Dame des Victoires, in commemoration of his victories, and the 
capture of La Rochelle, and served as the chapel to a com¬ 
munity of bare-footed Augustin monks, (l) The form of the 
edifice is a Roman cross; its length is 133 feet, its breadth 33, 

(l) This community was called “Petits Peres,” because two of the 
most zealous for the establishment of their order in Paris, who were 
men of small stature, being introduced into the antechamber of 


MARCIIE ST. JOSEPH. 235 

and its height 66. The portal, built in 1739, after designs bv Car- 
taud, presents Ionic pilasters surmounted by as many of the 
Corinthian order. The interior is Ionic, without aisles- the 
nave has on each side 4 chapels, in which may be seen the 
small oratories of the superiors of the religious community- 
also the monument of the celebrated composer Lulli over one 
of the doors, with Latin distiches in honour of him under the 
soffit ot tlie door. Here is also a good painting of the Infant 
Jesus adored by Angels; also near it a Mater Dolorosa, the Pre¬ 
sentation ot the Virgin, her Assumption, and an Annunciation, 
in the opposite transept is the Death of the Virgin, by Du Pas- 
quier ; the Immaculate Conception, by Lafontaine; the Virgin 
crushing the Spirit of Evil, and an Assumption, by Lavergne. In 
the second chapel following is a Mater Dolorosa, and in the 
third the Raising of Lazarus. In the nave is a painting of the 
> irgin appearing to St. Francis, by Du Pasquier. Around the 
choir is some richly-carved wainscoting; and above, nine large 
paintings by Vanloo, of much merit. That over the altar repre¬ 
sents the Virgin seated on clouds, and Louis XIII. prostrate pre¬ 
senting the plan of the newly erected church; the others re¬ 
late to the life of St. Augustin. During the Revolution this 
church was used as the Exchange. The buildings of the con¬ 
vent now contain themairie of the arrondissement, and a small 
barrack for infantry; which, however, are intended to be demo¬ 
lished, and transferred, together with the Justice de Paix of 
the 3d Arrondissement, to the adjoining 

Rue Necve de la Banque, a newly pierced street, forming a 
direct communication between the Exchange and the Bank of 
France, where also the new Hotel du Timbre is in course of 
erection. 

Opposite is the Fontaine des Petits Peres, constructed in 
1671. It bears the following inscription, by Santeuil : 

Quae dat aquas, saxo tatet hospita nympha sub imo; 

Sic tu, cum dederis dona, latere velis. 

In the rue Notre Dame de Victoires, No. 22, is the immense 
coach-establishment of the Messageries Rory ales, communicating 
with rue Montmartre; in which latter street, at No. 144, is the 

Marche St. Joseph, a daily market, built in 1813 and 1814, on 
the site of a chapel dedicated to St. Joseph. 

In the rue des Jeuneurs, further on, No. 16, is a handsome 
building containing Auction-rooms, where works of art and 
verlu are mostly sold. 

Returning to the rue Montmartre, at No. 166, is the 

Henry IV., the king said, “Qui sont ces pelits peres-la?” from which 
lime they retained ihe name. 


23G 


THIRD ARRONDISSEMENT. 


Fontaine de la rue Montmartre, standing against a house, 
and surmounted by a pediment. At No. 17G, is the 

Hotel d’Uzes, built by Le Doux, and remarkable for the arch 
which forms the entrance, Hanked by two Doric columns, 
adorned with trophies and an entablature. It belongs to 
M. Delessert, banker, and is one of the finest in this quarter. 

From hence the stranger will pass on to the Boulevard Pois- 
sonniere. At No. 27 is the Bazar d’Industrie, a general reposi¬ 
tory of wares d prix fixe; near which, at No. 23, is the 

Hotel de Montholon, a building of the Ionic order, now 
used as a carpet-warehouse. At No. 14 is the Maison du 
Pont de Per, with its iron bridge connecting the back and front 
buildings with the boulevard. It is composed of shops, ware¬ 
houses, merchants’ counting-houses, and the splendid cafe 
Pierront; and at No. 38 is the Theatre of the Gymnase Drarna- 
tique. (See Theatres.) On the adjoining Boulevard Bonne 
Nouvelle is the Bazar Bonne Nouvelle, an elegant building, 
with columns and pilasters of the three orders; the ground floor 
is a bazaar tastefully designed; on the first floor is the commo¬ 
dious Cafe de France, with billiards; the second contains a Dio¬ 
rama, and underneath is the Salle Bonne Nouvelle, where 
spectacles-concerts are given. (See Theatres.) 

From this Boulevard, the stranger should pass by the rue 
Poissonniere into the rue Montorgueil, where lie will find the 
Passage du Saumon, the longest in Paris, famous for an insur¬ 
rectionary fray in 1832. 

Hotel des Postes ( General Post Office), rue Jean Jacques 
Rousseau.(1)—This hotel, built by the Duke d’fipernon, occupies 
the site of a large house belonging to Jacques Rebours, pro- 
cureur de la ville in the 15th century. Barthelemi d’Hervat, 
comptroller-general of the finances, having succeeded to the 
duke, made some additions, and spared no expense to render 
it a magnificent habitation. It was distinguished for several 
works ot Mignard and Bon Boulogne. Subsequently it bore the 
name of d’Armenonville, till purchased by the government, in 
1757, for the General Post Office. The buildings connected 
with this establishment have been much enlarged, and a hand¬ 
some front added in the rue Coq Heron. It includes several 
courts, in one of which the mails, each having its own particular 
arcade, are packed every evening previous to starting, from a 

(O This street was originally called rue Platriere, but in 1791 , the 
Municipal Body decreed that it should take the name of J. J. Rousseau, 
who occupied a small apartment on the fourth story at No. 2. Its primi¬ 
tive title was restored to it in 1816, hut it has been changed again to 
Rousseau, and his bust is placed at the corner of No. l. 


ST. EUSTACHE. 237 

trap-door in the floor of the room above. The whole buildin- 
is well arranged : strangers are admitted into the courts, but 
not into the offices. (For postages, etc., see page 11.) 

At the eastern end of the rue Coquilliere, is 

St. Eustache, parish church of the third arrondissement,— 
This church, the largest in Paris except Notre Dame, stands on 
the site of a chapel of St. Agnes, which existed as early as 1213. 
It was begun in 1532, and, according to an old inscription to 
the left of the grand entrance, was consecrated in 1G37. In 
the Lady Chapel is a tablet stating that Pius VII. blessed it in 
1804. — Exterior. This church is cruciform, and a small tower 
rising from the intersection of the nave and transept is used as 
the station of a telegraph. The western front of the church is 
of much later date than the rest of the building, having been 
erected by Mansard deJouyin 1754, but not completed till late¬ 
ly. It consists of a basement story with coupled Doric columns, 
and an upper one of the Ionic order with a triangular pedi¬ 
ment. At the northern end is a square campanile ornamented 
with Corinthian columns crowned with circular pediments; a 
corresponding one designed for the southern end has never been 
built. This front harmonizes very badly with the rest of the 
edifice, which is an impure or mixed Gothic, exhibiting in many 
respects deviations, during the lengthened progress of construc¬ 
tion, from the original plan. The northern side is blocked up 
by other buildings, and nothing is visible, save the magnificent 
doorway of the transept, which is surmounted by a gabled front 
flanked by two lofty towers with buttresses. The southern side 
is unencumbered, and presents a curious medley of different 
styles. Flying double arched buttresses connect the outer wall 
of the nave with those of the aisles, and abut against Doric piers; 
and well-sculptured gargouilles project from the walls at regu¬ 
lar intervals. The southern entrance bears great resemblance 
to the northern one, though somewhat richer in sculpture.— 
Interior. The church consists of a nave and choir, with double 
aisles. The total length is 318 feet; breadth at the transepts, 
132 feet; height 90 feet. The elaborate groinings of the vault 
spring from clustered columns with Corinthian capitals, but 
reach to the bottom; the slender shafts of the foremost columns 
stand upon brackets. A remarkable feature of the style of this 
church, is the Corinthian column resting on a Doric pilaster, and 
this again on a still simpler one, the whole embodied with the 
pier at each corner of it; this design is observed throughout. The 
arches of the aisles and nave are lofty; above the latter is atri- 
forium gallery with paired arches, and above this, large cleres¬ 
tory windows, many of which are decorated with stained 
glass. The keystones are all beautifully sculptured^ that of the 


238 FOURTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 

choir, and another at the intersection of the nave and transepts, 
wilt attract attention. The arches behind the choir, and those 
of the Lady Chapel beyond it, are elliptical and hold. Circular 
windows of elaborate tracery adorn the transepts; and that of 
the other windows is equally complicated, representing lleurs 
delis, hearts, etc. There are many good paintings in this church, 
but, from the alterations in progress, their ultimate situation 
cannot be determined. In the fifth Chapel in the southern side 
aisle is an Adoration of the Blessed, by Boinard, and in the Lady 
chapel is the Martyrdom of Ste. Agnes, and Moses striking water 
out of the rock. Here also are two large alti-rilievi, the sub¬ 
jects being the Presentation on the right, and Christ disput¬ 
ing in the Temple on the left. On the same side is Colbert’s 
tomb, a sarcophagus of plain black marble, bearing a kneeling 
figure of that statesman, with two female figures at the base, 
by Coysevox. The chapels of Ste. Agnes and St. Eustache in 
the northern aisle have bas-reliefs representing their respec¬ 
tive martyrdoms. In the following transept are : the Adoration 
of the Shepherds, and that of the Magi, by Yanloo ; and at the 
corner of the adjacent aisle, is a holy-water basin, with a Statue 
of Pope Alexander instituting the use of holy water. The 
fine organ of this church was destroyed by fire on the 16th of 
December 1844 ; a new one has since been erected over the 
principal entrance, the pulpit and canopied seat opposite, 
carved in oak, will he remarked; but what will principally 
attract attention, is the sumptuous high altar in while marble, 
of the most delicate workmanship, and which cost 80,000 fr. 
An elaborately open-worked parapet of marble surrounds it, 
and connects some of the piersof the Choir. Many distinguished 
persons have been buried here; among them Voiture, Ya'ugelas, 
Lafosse, Homberg, the Marechal de la Feuillade, Admiral de 
Tourville, and Colbert. On the principal festivals this church 
is much thronged by amateurs of sacred music. 

Near this church is the Fontaine de Tantale, at the point 
formed by the rues Montmartre and MonlorgueiL—In a rusti¬ 
cated niche with a pediment, containing the Imperial eagle, 
is a head of Tantalus, sculptured above a shell, which pours 
water into a rich vase, and thence into a semicircular basin. 


The stranger may enter this arrondissement by the Palais 
Royal, where he will begin by the rue Montesquieu, and the 
Passage Vero-Dodat, one of the neatest in Paris. This will lead 
him to the great establishment of the diligences of Caillard , 



TflE ORATOIRE. 239 

et Cte, 18, rue cle Crenelle SL Honore. Thence lie passes into 
the rue St. Honore, where he will perceive 
The Oratoire. —This spacious church was built for the Pr$- 
tres de l Oratoire, in 1G21, by Lemercier; but that community 
having been suppressed at the Revolution, it was used for pub¬ 
lic meetings of the Quartier, until 1802, when it was ceded to 
the Protestants of the Confession of Geneva. The entrance, ap¬ 
proached by a flight of steps, is ornamented with Doric columns 
and pilasters, above which is a range of four Corinthian columns, 
crowned with a pediment. The interior is of the Corinthian 
order; it has a semicircular vault, and the galleries are fronted 
with balustrades. Service is performed here every Sundday in 
French at 12‘/ 2 . I he eloquent M.Coquerel is one of the ministers. 

The Fontaine de la Croix du Trahoir is at the corner of the 
rues de 1 Arbre Sec and St. Honore. This fountain, first erected 
in the time of Francis I., was rebuilt by Soufflot in 1775. Each 
front is adorned with pilasters wrought in stalactites and shells. 
The basement is rusticated. Between the windows of the first 
story is a nymph, by Jean Goujon, pouring water into a basin. 

lhe rue de l’Arbre Sec, so called from the gibbet, “arbre 
sec,” being formerly erected here, crosses the rue des Fosses 
St. Germain l’Auxerrois. Here, at No. 14, is the house (now 
much altered), formerly called 
The Hotel Ponthieu, in which the Admiral Coligny was mur¬ 
dered on St. Bartholomew’s day, in 1572.(1) The particulars 
of that wholesale massacre are no doubt well known to the 
reader. Here Sophie Arnould, the wilty actress, lirst saw the 
light in 1740. It was then called the Hotel Lizieux. In 1747, 

(C This house undoubtedly belonged to Admiral Coligny; the asser¬ 
tion of Voltaire, that he was murdered in lhe old Hdlel Monlbazon, rue 
de Belhizy, Nos. 18 and 20, where the window on the second floor, ad¬ 
joining a circular turret, is still shown as the one from which he was 
precipitated into the court below, originates in a mistake, owing to that 
part of the street now called des Fossds-Suini-Gerrncdn-l’Auxerrois 
having at that lime borne the name of rue de Belhizy. Some of the most 
appalling scenes of that murderous night were no doubt enacted near 
this latter hotel. In it in after times lived the beautiful Duchess de 
Monlbazon, who was loved so tenderly by the Abbe de Ranee, whom she 
admitted at all limes to her apartment by a secret staircase. The abbe 
having been absent on a journey of some weeks, returning to Paris, 
hastened at once to the residence of the Duchess. He mounted the stair¬ 
case, opened with a private key the doors that led to her apartment, 
and, rushing into her salon, found—her head placed in a dish on the 
table, and several surgeons busily engaged in embalming her body. This 
shocking spectacle had such an effect upon him, that he instantly left 
Paris for the convent of La Trappe, shutting himself up in it for the re¬ 
mainder of his days, and was known as the most severe disciplinarian of 
that rigid order. 


240 FOURTH ARRONDIS9EMENT. 

the same room was occupied by the celebrated painter Vanloo, 
of the Royal French Academy. 

Returning into the rue de l’Arbre Sec, the visitor will pass 
on to the east end of 

-p St. Germain l’Auxerrois, parish church of the fourth arron- 
dissement.—A church was founded on this spot by Childebert 
in honour of St. Vincent; and, according to the accounts trans¬ 
mitted to us, is said to have been of a circular form. This edi¬ 
fice was, however, sacked and destroyed by the Normans in 
886. A monastery was established here, and the church rebuilt 
by King Robert in 998, at which time it was dedicated to St. 
Germain l'Auxerrois. The ecclesiastics of this religious house 
were afterwards formed into a regular college or chapter, and 
in latter times it became celebrated for a school attached to 
it; the glory, however, of which was eclipsed by the founda¬ 
tion of the Sorbonne. The number of clergy attached to this 
chapter was upwards of 40, and there were at the beginning 
of the 18lh century 50 other priests dependent upon the church 
and olhciating in the parish. The privilege of independent ju¬ 
risdiction was also possessed by this society until 1744, when 
the chapter was united to that of Notre Dame. This parish, as 
it included the Louvre and the Tuileries, was long considered 
the royal parish, and the church was frequently the object of 
the munificence of the crown. During the horrors of the Re¬ 
volution the edifice escaped with little damage, and might have 
remained so until the present day, but that on the 13th Fe¬ 
bruary, 1831, an attempt having been made to celebrate in it 
the anniversary of the death of the Duke de Rerri, a tumult 
arose, and every thing within the church was destroyed. The 
mob was with great difficulty prevented from pulling it down; 
and as a consequence of this commotion, on the same and fol¬ 
lowing day, the archbishop’s palace,, adjoining Notre Dame, 
was attacked and completely devastated. The church was then 
shut up, and remained so till 1838, when it was again restored 
to public worship, and a thorough restoration of the edifice 
commenced, which is not yet completed. It was once the most 
sumptuously adorned church in Paris; being within the pre¬ 
cincts of the court (the Paroisse lloijale), the painters and art¬ 
ists in vogue vied in adorning it. Among other improvements, 
that of lowering the ground, so as to bring to view the steps 
leading to the portico, is not the least important; in doing which 
great quantities of human bones, with several stone coffins, etc., 
were found, relics of the old cemetery. Many interesting his¬ 
torical events are connected with this edifice, and of these one 
deserves particular mention. It was from its belfry that the 
fatal signal was given and responded to from the Palais (now de 


ST. GERMAIN L’AUXERROIS. 241 

Justice) for the commencement of the massacre on the eve of 
the F6te of St. Barlhelemi, 23d August, 1572 : the bells of this 
church lolled during the whole of that dreadful night. From a 
house that stood near the cloisters that once surrounded this 
church, a shot was tired at the Admiral de Coligny, a short 
time previous to that memorable tragedy. Here, too, in after 
limes, the beautiful Gabrielle d’Estrees lodged for a while, and 
died in the house of the dean. The cloister of St. Germain 
1 Auxerrois had, moreover, been famous in the history of France 
as early as 135G; it was within its precincts that Etienne Marcel, 
Prevot des Marchands, stirred up his formidable insurrection. 
—Exterior. The church is cruciform, with an octagonal ter¬ 
mination, and a lower supposed to date from 1649, at the in¬ 
tersection of the nave and transept. A double aisle incloses 
both nave and choir; and in front of the western doorway a 
porch extends the whole width of the nave. The dates of the 
various parts of this edifice are uncertain. Nothing remains of 
the original work; the earliest portion now existing is the 
western doorway, the plan and sections of which show it to be 
copied from one of the 13th century, and to have been erected 
in the 14 th. The principal front, to the west, consists of a well- 
sculptured portico, with five rich Gothic arches in front, the 
three central ones being considerably higher than the lateral 
ones, and crowned with a perforated compartmented parapet; 
the gabled roof of the nave, flanked by two irregular turrets, 
rises behind. This porch was erected in 1431-7, by Jean Gau- 
sel, maitre tailleur de pierre, at a cost of 960 livres; the other 
parts of the church are said to have been built previously dur¬ 
ing the regency of the Duke of Bedford. The architecture, 
however, of the chief part of this edifice, as it now stands, is of 
the latter end of that century. A richly perforated parapet, 
similar to that of the porch, ornaments the upper part of the 
outside of the aisles; the doorways of the northern and southern 
transepts are profusely sculptured; flying buttresses connect 
the walls of the nave with those of the aisles, and gargouilles, 
sculptured in the style of caryatides, project at intervals from 
the sides. The interior of the porch above-mentioned, newly 
painted in the Byzantine style, will attract attention. The art¬ 
ist, M. Moltez, has had in view the representation of the chief 
teachers ol the Christian religion. The large fresco-painting in 
the tympan ol the ogive of the principal portal displays Christ 
on the Cross; below to the left we see Saints Eloi, Denis, Lan¬ 
dry, Remi, Felix of \alois, Martin, and Genevieve, with Joan 
of Arc; to the right, Saints Crispin, Bernard, Leo IX., Rocli, 
Vincent de Paule, Clovis, Ambroise, Clotilde, and Blandive. On 
either side of this fresco are two more, in ogive frames; that 

21 


242 FOURTH ARROND1SSEMENT. 

to the left represents Christ preaching on the Mount. Around 
him stand his disciples; below, the people listening to his word. 
The various prescriptions of the Saviour are severally illus¬ 
trated; here two brothers embrace; there a warrior sheaths 
his sword in presence of the enemy; below, a female, avoiding 
the public gaze, gives alms. The painting to the right repre¬ 
sents Christ on the Mount of Olives, commanding his disciples 
to spread his word throughout the world. Below is Magdalen 
kneeling in exstatic admiration. Still lower, is the Virgin sur¬ 
rounded by pious females congratulating her on the mercy of 
which she was the instrument. The ogives of the two parti¬ 
tions perpendicular to the main wall represent the four Evan¬ 
gelists. The lateral door to the south in its ogive represents 
the inspiration of the Apostles, and on the key-stone of its 
vault is sculptured the Last Supper in bas-relief. The fresco of 
the northern one has for its subject Jesus disputing in the 
Temple, and on the key-stone of the vault is the Adoration of 
the Shepherds. The whole vault has its complicated groins 
painted and gilt. The portals also are adorned with new sta¬ 
tues of saints, painted and gilt. On the inner surfaces of the 
pilasters of the porch are figures in fresco of Adam before and 
after the fall, Eve, Abel, Judas, Herodias, Balthazar, and Absa¬ 
lom. The visitor, on seeing these decorations, and those of the 
interior in the same style, must judge by his own feelings 
whether or not they be in keeping with the simple grandeur 
of this Gothic gem; and whether, the imitative talent of the 
artists left out of the question, the servile reproduction of the 
anatomical defects, and errors in perspective, peculiar to a 
barbarous age, be conducive to the real progress of the fine 
arts. Interior . I he interior consists of a nave and choir, with 
double aisles. The north aisle of the nave is said to have been 
built in 1604; the gallery of the communion in 1007, and the 
high altar in 1012. Beginning from the southern aisle, the first 
chapel is that ot the Virgin, painted by M. Maury Duval. Over 
the altar is a large fresco, representing Christ crowning the 
Virgin surrounded by angels. Next to it is the Assumption. 
Between the groins of the vault are the figures of eight angels. 
Five splendid windows, containing fifteen figures of saints on 
stained glass, of natural size, and several busts in the intervals 
of the tracery, admit the light. In the southern transept, 
contiguous to this chapel, is a colossal fresco by Guichard, re¬ 
presenting the Descent from the Cross. Three of the windows 
are in stained glass, and represent, besides several minor sub¬ 
jects, the Assumption of the Virgin, and Christ disputing in the 
Temple. Opposite the fresco, is a bas-relief in plaster, the 
Adoration of the Magi. In the centre of the transept is a magni- 





243 


ST. GERMAIN l’AUXERROIS. 

ficent holy-water basin in marble, surmounted by an ex¬ 
quisitely-sculptured group of three children supporting a cross, 
executed by M. Jouffroy from the design of the donor, Mme. de 
Lamartine. Following the aisle around the Choir, we find the 
Chapel of the Holy Fathers; the altar-piece, by Truelle,repre¬ 
sents St. Ambrose, St. Juslinus, and St. Jerome. In the window 
is Christ between St. Leo and St. Gregory, in stained glass. 
Opposite this chapel, in the aisle, is a St. Sebastian, by Aubert. 
In the Chapel of St. Peter, is the Martyrdom of St. Stephen, and 
Christ naming SI. Peter his successor. In that of the apostles 
will be seen Christ and his disciples on glass in the window. 
Next to the door of the Sacristy is a fresco in two compart¬ 
ments; the upper represents God, and the lower Christ bless¬ 
ing children. The Chapel of St. Landry is painted by Guichard; 
it encloses the remains of that saint, the founder of the Hotel 
Dieu, and has two monuments in marble of the Chancellor 
Aligre and his brother. The Chapel of the Dead, also painted 
by Guichard, contains an Entombment in bas-relief, and a fine 
marble statue representing an angel kneeling in prayer. The 
Chapel of the Saviour, painted by Couder, has the principal 
events of his life represented on glass in the window. Next 
comes the Chapel of St. Vincent and St. Germain, with a re¬ 
markably fine Gothic altar. Here also are two paintings on 
canvas; the Assumption of Mary, by Rouget, and Ste. Genevieve 
taking the vow, by Pajou. The Chapel of St. Germain and 
Ste. Genevieve, painted in fresco by Gigoux, contains scenes of 
the latter saint’s life. The carvings in oak of the doorway of 
Ste. Anne, and its stained window, are remarkable. In the 
Chapel of St. Charles Borromeo the altar-piece represents him 
visiting the plague-stricken at Milan; and in that of St. Vincent 
de Paule is a painting of that saint affording relief to found¬ 
lings, by Truelle. Next comes the Chapel of St. Louis, with 
his image on glass in the window; here also is an ancient mo¬ 
nument of Tristan and Charles de Rostaing, with their statues 
in marble, in the act of prayer. In the Chapel of St. Cloud is a 
stained window with the picture of that saint. The windows 
of the northern transept are also richly decorated in a similar 
style. In the Chapel of Notre Dame de Compassion is a remark¬ 
able ancient alto-rilievo in oak, representing the Fission in 
various compartments. The window facing the left aisle is in 
stained glass, representing Pope Gregory Vll. between Charle¬ 
magne and Pepin. The five windows of the Choir, executed 
by M. Marecbal, of Metz, will also attract attention, as well as 
the oaken pulpit and canopied seat opposite. Before the high 
altar is suspended a gilt bronze lamp, of elegant workmanship, 
the gift of the present Queen.—No traces exist of the cloisters 


FOURTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 


244 

of this church. It is in contemplation to improve its approaches, 
and a Gothic fountain on thesquare before the porch isspoken of. 

At tlie corner of rue Jean Tison is to be seen a house with a 
turret of the 15th century, which once belonged to the eccle¬ 
siastics ; and the Quai and Place de VEcole preserve by tradi¬ 
tion the name of the school of St. Germain l’Auxerrois. 

The Place de l’Ecole is a small square, only remarkable for 
a little fountain in the middle, consisting of a square pedestal 
rising out of a circular basin, and supporting a vase. The wa¬ 
ter issues from four lions’ heads at the base of the pedestal. 

From hence the visitor, passing along the rue de la Monnaie, 
and the rue de Belhizy, will find at No. 11, rue des Bourdon- 
nais, a new building replacing those of the 

Hotel de la Tremouille, commonly called the Maison de la 
Couronne d’Or .—This was a curious monument of the archi¬ 
tecture of the 14th century. It was purchased in 13G3, by the 
Duke of Orleans, brother to King John. A Gothic turret stair¬ 
case to the left on entering was very remarkable ; and has, 
with a few other fragments, been deposited at the Palais des 
Beaux Arts. The destruction of this fine old edifice was felt by 
the antiquary, the artist, and the man of taste, as there was 
perhaps no ancient building in Paris the ornaments of which 
were executed with greater delicacy. 

Returning to the rue de Bethizy, and proceeding onwards to 
the rue and place du Chevalier du Guet, the Mairie will be 
seen at No. 4, and the stranger, having passed over some of the 
most historic ground of Paris, will enter, by the rue Perrin 
Gasselin, the'rue St. Denis, and on the right will observe the 

Place du Chatelet.— Here was the site of the Chatelet, the 
court of justice as well as the prison of Paris during the middle 
ages. The tribunal was suppressed at the Revolution, and the 
building destroyed in 1802. What the capital has lost by the 
demolition of one of its most interesting monuments has scarcely 
been gained by the formation of the present square, which 
presents three sides of 220 feet, and, in the middle, contains a 
fountain erected in 1808 after the designs of M. Bralle, the 
first monument erected in commemoration of the victories of 
the Republic and the Empire. This fountain consists of a cir¬ 
cular basin 20 feet in diameter, with a pedestal and column in 
the centre, 58 feet in elevation, in the form of a palm-tree. 
Upon the pedestal are four statues, representing Justice, 
Strength, Prudence, and Vigilance, which join hands and en¬ 
circle the column. The shaft is divided by bands of bronze 
gilt, inscribed with the names of the principal victories of Na¬ 
poleon. At the angles are cornucopia? terminated by fishes’ 
beads, from which the water issues; while on two sides are 


MARCHE DES INNOCENTS. 245 

eagles encircled by wreaths of laurel. Above the capital are 
heads representing the Winds, and in the centre a globe, which 
supports a gilt statue of Victory.—The Chamber of Notaries 
occupies the house No. 1, upon the Place du Chatelet, where 
houses and landed property are sold by auction. 

No one should pass by the eastern end of the rue St. Honore, 
without recollecting that the house No. 3 is that in front of 
which Henry IV. was assassinated by Ravaillac. The street was 
exceedingly narrow at that time, and the assassin, mounting 
on a large guard-stone that stood against the wall, was able 
to reach the royal person. The bust of the monarch is to be 
seen on a bracket in front of the house, at the second story, 
with the following inscription : 

ITenrici Magni recreat praescntia cives 

Quos illi seterno fcedere juuxit amor. 

A double-arched entrance in the middle of the rue de la Fer- 
ronnerie leads to the 

March*: des Innocents, an immense area, formerly the bury- 
ing-ground of the church of the Innocents, which stood at the 
eastern end of the present market. The accumulation of hu¬ 
man remains during 8 or 9 centuries in this ground had be¬ 
come so serious an evil that, in 178G, they were all transferred 
to the Catacombs, and, the soil being entirely renewed, a mar¬ 
ket was erected. The peasants and cultivators in the neigh¬ 
bourhood of Paris arrive here every morning from 12 to 2 with 
their fruits and vegetables, and from 4 till 9 wholesale dealing 
is carried on. After that hour they are obliged to leave, and 
are replaced by retail dealers, who establish themselves under 
the sheds, which, in four divisions, surround the market, or 
round the fountain, in the middle. This fountain, constructed 
by Pierre Lescot in 1551, at the corner of the rue aux Fers, 
and sculptured by the celebrated Jean Goujon, who was shot 
during the massacre of St. Bartholomew, while working at one 
of the figures, was removed to its present situation in 178G. It 
originally consisted of only three sides: the fourth, or northern 
side, was added by Pajou at the lime of ils removal. Four 
arches, the piers of which are faced with Corinthian pilasters, 
with pedestals crowned with a sculptured frieze, attic, and, in 
each centre above the attic, a small pediment, support a small 
dome; in the midst stands a vase, out of which the water falls 
in a triple cascade into stone receptacles attached to the base¬ 
ment, and resembling antique baths. Four recumbent lions of 
rude form are at the corners of the base spouting water, and 
round the whole is a large square basin, approached by steps. 
The height is 42 feet. On each of the four sides between the 


FOURTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 


216 

pilasters is the inscription'— Fontium Nymphis. The following 
distich, by Santeuil, on the east was restored in IS 10: 

Quos duro cernis simulates marmore fluclus, 

Hujus nympha loci credidit esse suos. 

It is a valuable monument of the Renaissance des Arts. 

At the western end of this market stands a low long build¬ 
ing, presenting a semicircular front, reaching back to the rue 
de la Tonnellerie. 11 was constructed in 178G, on the site of 
a more ancient one, and is 400 feet in length. Towards the 
market it contains the bureau of the Police du Marche; to the 
soulh a post of Sapeurs Pompiers, a fourneau de la Societe 
Philanthropique, and an Asile Communal for children between 
2 and G years of age. On the northern side is the school for 
young women. (See p. 84.) The rest is used for a Halle aux 
Draps, or cloth market, having two divisions, one for linen, 
the other for woollen cloths, and is open every day for the 
sale of the latter, and, for the former, on three consecutive 
days from the first Monday of every month. Opposite to it on 
the southern side is the Marchd des Herboristes, where fresh 
medical herbs are sold every Wednesday and Saturday : dried 
herbs, leeches, etc., are to be had in the adjoining shops. On 
the northern side, and in the rue de la Petite Friperie, is the 
Marchd aux Famines de Terre el aux Oignons. 

A little to the north of these markets stands a triangular 
building, which is the Marche au Beurre, aux OEufs, el au 
Fromage. It was erected in 1822, and is open every day from 
G to 11 in summer, and from 7 to ll in winter. Opposite to it 
is an open space, with rows of sheds, where butter is also 
sold. To the north is the Marche au Poisson, an oblong edifice 
supported by pillars, paved with stone, well drained, and 
abundantlysupplied with water. The wholesale market is open 
from 3 to 0 in the morning in summer, and from 4 to 9 in winter. 

Westward of the Marche au Poisson is the rue de la Tonnel¬ 
lerie, one cf the most curious in the capital. A shabby sort ol 
portico runs under the houses, almost entirely tenanted by 
dealers in second-hand furniture, rags, cloth, etc. In this street 
the Marche au Fain is held every day, and is supplied chiefly 
by bakers from the suburbs, who are allowed to sell their 
bread here on condition of its being cheaper than the bread 
made and sold by the bakers of Paris. (1) This they are enabled 

(I) Bread is now sold in Paris by weight, and (he price is fixed on (he 
island 1 5th of every month by the Prefect of Police, who of lale lias 
enjoined its sole by kilogrammes and portions of kilogrammes; at ihe 
samo time making it imperative on the baker to weigh it in the presence 
of the purchaser. Ibis law, however, linds some difficulty in the execu¬ 
tion, from interest on one side and indolence on the other. 


IIALLE AU BLE. 247 

lo do from the difference of the price of labour in the outskirts 
and within the wails. At the southern end, leading into the 
rue St. Honore, is a house, No. 3, erected on Hie site of that 
in which Moliere was horn, and which was held by his father, 
valet-de-chambre and upholsterer lo Louis XIV. In the front 
of the house is a bust of the great comic writer, with the 
inscription: 

.T. B. Poquelin do Moliere. 

Cette maison a £le bdlie sur l’emplacementdecelle ou il naquit Pan 1620. 

Napoleon’s intention of creating one vast hallc on the site of 
these several petty ones is being realised. The City has pur¬ 
chased 160 houses for demolition, and the rues Trainee, de la 
Tonnellerie, and des Prouvaires will be totally or partly pulled 
down. A surface of 30,000 square metres will thus be obtained, 
bordering towards the east on the rue de la Lingerie; towards 
the west on the rue du Four; the south boundary will be 
formed by the rues des Deux Ecus, du Conlrat Social, and de 
la Friperie. Towards the north a beginning has been made by 
the prolongation of the rues Rambuleau and Coquillere, and the 
demolitions at the Pointe St. Eustache. Eight regular halles will 
form the body of the market, having vast cellars under them 
for the purpose of magazines. The work will require six years 
for its completion, and its total cost is calculated at 20 millions. 

Passing from the Marche des Prouvaires into the rue des 
Deux Ecus, the stranger will find streets leading to the 

Halle au Ble, a vast circular building, where the wholesale 
dealing in all sorts of grain and flour is carried on. The spot 
on which this building stands was for many ages the residence 
of royalty. In the beginning of the 13th century the Hotel de 
Nede was erected here by Jean 11., who in 1232 made a pre¬ 
sent of it to Louis IX., who in his turn ceded il to his mother, 
queen Blanche. In 1327 it became the properly of Jean de 
Luxembourg, king of Bohemia, and was called Hotel de BoMme. 
In 1388 it belonged lo Louis of Orleans, who, on becoming 
king as Louis XIL, converted it into a convent for the Filles 
Penilentes. These were dispossessed of it by a Bull from the 
pope in order to make way for a palace for Catherine de Me- 
dicis, named the Hotel de la Heine. At her dealli il was sold to 
Charles de Bourbon, sen of the Prince de Conde, and its name 
was changed to the Hotel de Soissons. That hotel was destroyed 
in 1748, and the present Halle, commenced in 17G3, was finished 
in 17G7, after the designs of Le Camus de Mesieres. The hall 
is 12G feet in diameter, and the hemispherical roof, formed by 
concentric circles of iron, covered with copper, has a round 
skylight 31 feet in diameter in the centre. It was erected by 


248 FIFTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 

Brunei in 1811, in place of a wooden one accidentally destroyed 
by fire in 1802, and is reckoned a chef-d’oeuvre of its kind. 
The hall was originally intended to be open to the air; but 
the surrounding granaries not being found capacious enough, 
it was roofed. An arcade of 25 arches passes round the inner 
area; behind this arcade, under the double vaulted roofs sup¬ 
porting spacious galleries overhead, are piled the sacks of 
flour; the centre contains sacks of unground grain. There are 
here 24 bureaux of flour and meal factors. The whole can 
hold 30,000 sacks, but the average quantity is much less. Two 
curious double staircases lead to the granaries above, which 
are worth visiting to obtain a just idea of the vastness of the 
place. The visitor, by placing himself immediately under the 
centre of the skylight over the middle area, and speaking 
loudly, will find a remarkable echo in the building. On the 
southern part of the exterior is a Doric column erected in 
1572, by the famous Jean Bullant, by order of Catherine de 
Medicis, and is the only relic of the Hotel de Soissons. It is 95 
feel in height, and was built for astrological purposes; it con¬ 
tains a winding staircase, the lower part of which leads to a 
small reservoir, belonging to the Fontaine de la Croix du 
Trahoir (see p. 239); the upper part is accessible by the stair¬ 
case of the Halle au Ble, but is totally uninteresting. A very 
ingenious sun-dial, by Pingre, a canon of Ste. Genevieve, is 
placed on its shaft, and from the pedestal a fountain pours 
forth its waters. 

The rue du Bouloy, well known for its waggon and diligence 
offices, and the rue Coquilliere, will lead to the rue Croix des 
Petits Champs, and so to 

The Banque de France, which slandsin,and occupies one side 
of, the rue de la Yrilliere.— It was formerly the hotel of the 
Count de Toulouse, and was erected by Mansard, for the Duke 
de la Yrilliere, in 1720. In an architectural point of view it 
possesses little interest; the court is surrounded with buildings 
of the stately style prevalent at the time of its erection; the 
entrance is under a gateway with Ionic pilasters, surmounted 
by statues. Its spacious apartments were formerly gorgeously 
decorated. The easel pictures of the Galerie Doree formed by 
the Count de Toulouse were destroyed at the Devolution, but 
the ceiling, which is very beautiful, remains. (See p. 107.) 


Mffl AlMlillglllllfo 

This arrondissement is divided into two distinct parts. The 
stranger is recommended to begin with that north of t he Boule- 



PORTE ST. DENIS. 249 

vards. The first object which will meet his eye, at the entrance 
of the rue du Faubourg St. Denis, is the 
Porte St. Denis.— This triumphal arch, which stands upon 
the site of the Porte St. Denis, built under Charles IX., was 
erected by the City of Paris in 1G72, after the designs of Blondel, 
to celebrate the rapid victories of Louis XIV., who, in the space 
of two months, subjected forty towns and three provinces to 
his dominions. It is 72 feet in height; the principal arch is 25 
feel wide, and 43 in height, and in the piers are two arches, 5 
feet in breadth by 10 in height. Over the lateral arches are 
pyramids in relief which rise to the entablature, and are sur¬ 
mounted by globes bearing fleurs-de-lis and crowns. Their 
surfaces are sculptured with military trophies, and on those 
next the city are colossal figures; on one side representing 
Holland, as a woman sitting upon a dead lion; on the other the 
Rhine, as a river god holding a rudder. Those on the side next 
the faubourg have lions couchants and trophies, instead of 
colossal figures. Above the arch is a bas-relief, representing 
Louis XIV. on horseback, crossing the Rhine, at Tolhuis; on 
the frieze, in bronze letters, is Ludovico Magno. The bas-relief 
of the opposite side represents the taking of Maestricht. In the 
spandrils of the arch are figures of Fame, and the intrados is 
adorned with moulded and sculptured compartments. On 
tablets placed under the pedestals of the pyramids are four 
inscriptions by Blondel. On the north side is the inscription : 

Quod trajectum ad Mosam XIII. diebus cepit. 

Praefeclus et jEdiles poni cc. anno Domini MDCLXXIII. 

To the south: 

Quod diebus vix sexaginla Rhenum, Wahalim, Mosam, Tsalam superavit; 
subegit provincias tres, cepit urbes munitas quadraginla. 
Praefectus et iEdiles poni cc- anno Domini MDCLXXI1. 

Girardon was at first charged with the sculpture, but, being 
called to Versailles, it was executed by Michael Anguier. This 
monument, which cost the City of Paris 500,000 fr., and is con¬ 
sidered one of the finest works of the age of Louis XIV., both 
for the harmony of its proportions and the execution of its parts, 
was in such a slate of decay at the beginning of the present 
century as to threaten total ruin. Its repair was undertaken 
and ably executed by Cellerier, in 1807. Both this monument 
and that of the Porte St. Marlin are famous for the sanguinary 
contests which look place around them in July 1830. 

On passing up the rue du Faubourg St. Denis, the visitor will 
find, on the left hand, at No. 117, the ancient convent of the 
Lazarisls, or Priests of the Mission, now converted into a prison 
lor female offenders. (See Prisons, etc.) It was once a place of 


250 FIFTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 

much celebrity, and in remote times the remains of the kings 
and queens of France were conveyed to the convent ol St. 
Lazare previous to being transported to St. Denis. r lhe coffin 
was placed between the two gates of the edifice upon a tomb 
of slate, where it was surrounded by all the prelates o( the 
kingdom, who, after chaunling the service of the dead, sprinkled 
holy water over it. To see the interior apply by letter to the 
Prefect of Police. Opposite, at No. 112, is 

The Maison Royale de Same, an excellent institution, in 
which invalids not able to procure proper attendance at home 
are received at moderate rates, varying from 3 fr. to C fr. per 
diem, medical attendance, surgical operations, etc., included. 
The utmost care is paid to the comfort of the patients; and the 
institution is well worthy of imitation in other countries. Phy¬ 
sicians; Drs. Dumeril and Requin; Surgeon, M. Monod; Con¬ 
sulting Surgeon, M. Marjolin. 11 contains 150 beds. The number 
of patients admitted amually is about 1G00, and the average 
mortality 1 in 7. (See Hospitals,) 

A street leads hence to the 

Foire Perpetuelle St. Laurent. —This market has been built 
on speculation by a company, and is intended for the supply of 
this part of the capital, where no other good market exists. It 
is of simple design, in the form of a parallelogram of two 
stories, with covered galleries, and a fountain in the centre of 
the court. The whole is covered, and partially roofed with glass. 

From this market the stranger will go to 

St. Laurent, parish church of the 5th arrondissement, Place 
de la Fidelite, and rue du Faubourg St. Marlin —This church 
was built in 1429; enlarged in 154S; in great part rebuilt in 
1595; the porch, and probably the Lady Chapel, were added in 
1G22. The front, of the Doric order, has the defect frequently 
met with in French churches, of being out of keeping with the 
general style of the building, which is Gothic. The metopes 
have gridirons on them, emblematical of St. Lawrence’s mar¬ 
tyrdom. A tower with a small pointed circular turret on the 
northern side; some finely-worked tracery of early date over 
the northern door-way, with its gabled front, will be noticed. 
The interior is cruciform, with double aisles and a circular choir, 
behind which is an elliptical Lady Chapel. The most ancient 
part of the church is the northern aisle of the choir, where 
the key-stones of the vaulting-ribs are boldly sculptured. The 
nave and choir are of the pointed style throughout; the ribs 
proceed in a continuous sweep from the bases of the piers, 
without capitals. The key-stones of the vaulting-ribs of the 
nave and transepts are the most remarkable architectural or¬ 
naments of the church; they are deep pendant masses of stone, 


HOSPICE DES INCURABLES. 281 

sculptured into groups of figures, fruit, etc. There is no trifo- 
rium gallery, but large clerestory windows with plain tra¬ 
cery. The first Chapel of the northern aisle contains a colossal 
plaster group of a Descent from the Cross; the third, painted 
by Bremont in the Byzantine style, has a fresco in the ogive over 
the altar, representing Christ between the Virgin Mary and Jo¬ 
seph. Opposite is a large ogive fresco of Christ commanding 
the Apostles to spread his word. The vault and spandrils are 
painted with busts of angels in medallions. On one of the gilt 
key-stones is the figure of St. Lawrence. Next is the transept 
containing above the altar a canvas painting by Schnetz, repre¬ 
senting St. Lawrence led to martyrdom. In the next chapel is St. 
Vincent de Panic blessing the congregation from the altar. The 
Lady Chapel is adorned with coupled Ionic pilasters; its cupola 
is painted in fresco. Opposite is an Entombment carved in oak. 
In the choir is the high altar, and some other well-executed 
decorations in marble of the Corinthian order; a gilt iron rail¬ 
ing separates it from the nave, and two splendid chandeliers 
will be remarked. In the chapel of the south transept is the 
apotheosis of Ste. Genevieve, by Lancrenon. In the following 
chapel of the southern aisle is a statue in plaster of Ste. A poly¬ 
line, by Bougron, and in the second, St. Charles Borromeo re¬ 
lieving the sick, painted in oil by Laure. Madame Le Gras, wild, 
with St. Vincent dc Paule, founded the order of the Filles de la 
Charlte, and died in 1GG0, was buried in this church. In front 
of the eastern end of the church is the 

Hospice des Incurables ( Hommes ), 34, rue des Recollets, and 
150, rue du Faubourg St. Martin.—This hospital was established 
in the ancient convent of the Recollets in 1802, when the H6- 
pital des Incurables was appropriated to females only. The 
buildings are spacious and airy, and have an extensive garden 
attached to them. The number of men admissible into this 
house is 420, and it will shortly be increased by 130 beds more. 
About 30 of the old men work for their own benefit. It for¬ 
merly contained children, but these are now sent to Arras, 
where, if their health admits of it, they learn trades; on attaint¬ 
ing the age of 20 they are sent to Bicetre. Dr. Duplay inhabits 
this hospice, and the inmates are attended to by the Sceurs de 
Charite. The patients may receive visitors every day from 12 
to half past 3. 

Between this hospital and the Canal St. Marlin, in the rue des 
Recollets, No. 2G, is a large charcoal-market. In the saute 
street, No. 11 bis, is a Maisnn de Secours for the 5th arrondisse-y 
ment, and a Bureau de Bicnfaisance; No. 13 is a communal 
school, and next door an Aside pour VEnfance. The stranger 
should now cross the canal, and proceed to the 


252 FIFTH ARRONDISSEMENT» 

Hopital St. Louis, rue des Recollets, No. 2.—An alms-house 
or hospital existed here from very remote times, which, being 
taken under the protection of St. Louis, was enlarged and called 
after him. The present establishment, founded by Henry IV. 
in 1602, on the representation of the President Harlay, was 
erected after the plans of the architect Villefaux. It is a fine 
specimen of the architecture of that time, occupying a qua¬ 
drangle of 360 yards by 240, with 8 lofty pavilions in the centre 
and angles. A spacious yard and gardens, with all the requisite 
offices, enclosed by a wall and fosse, surround the central edi¬ 
fice. This hospital, though designed only for the treatment of 
cutaneous diseases and scrofula, receives occasionally cases of 
acute disorders and surgical cases. It had many patients dur¬ 
ing the cholera. Patients able to pay are received in a separate 
pavilion, at the rate of 2 fr. 50 c. a-day. In-door patients, who 
are able, are encouraged to work in the garden at one sou per 
hour. It is now one of the largest hospitals in Paris, contain¬ 
ing 800 beds, with a justly-celebrated establishment of medi¬ 
cated and mineral baths. Opposite the entrance in the first 
court is a statue of Monthyon. The wards are 144 feet in lengh 
by 24 in breadth, and are 11 feet high on the ground floor, and 
trom 20 to 25 on the upper. The average number of patients 
yearly is 8,500, and the mortality 1 in 19,50. 25,000 persons 
annually avail themselves of the baths, and in a single year 
140,000 baths have been served. The bathing department is 
worth inspection. In 2 long rooms 50 baths, supplied by the 
same pipes, produce all the mineral waters capable of being 
imitated, particularly those of a sulphureous nature. In an 
adjoining room is a large vapour bath, admitting by distinct 
entries eight patients at the same time. Another, of a different 
construction, with douches, etc. Adjoining is a small chapel, 
the first stone of which was laid by Henry IV.; its lateral walls 
are flanked with buttresses; the front is gabled, with a bold 
archway; a niche on each side displays the statues of St. Louis 
and St. Rocli. Opposite is a gas apparatus for lighting the es¬ 
tablishment, remarkable for being the first established in Paris. 
Next is a house for the Dames de St. Augustin, 27 in number, 
who attend upon the sick. The establishment has a vast wash¬ 
house of its own; in one of the gardens is a basin of water 
solely destined for the propagation of leeches. Gratuitous ad¬ 
vice is given by the medical men to the poor. Physicians, Drs. 
Devergie, Gibert, Emery, Lugol, and Cazenave; Surgeons, Jo- 
beit, and Malgaigne. Besides these there are 10 internes, or 
graduated students in medicine, living in the hospitals for the 
sake of practice, and 7 iutevnes for pharmacy. An amphilhca- 
tre has lately been erected for Clinical lectures and another is 


POUDRETTE DE MONTFAUCON. 253 

in course of construction. The hospital is said to have derived 
its name from having been originally devoted to persons in¬ 
fected with the plague, of which St. Louis died at Tunis, in 
1270. Strangers are readily admitted. 

1 he visitor on leaving the Hopital St. Louis may proceed, but 
lrom the disgusting sights he would witness he is by no means 
recommended to do so, to the 

Poudrette de Montfaucon, which lies a little outside the Bar- 
riere du Combat, at the loot of the Butte de Chaumont. This 
hill is composed of nearly the same geological formations as 
the heights of Montmartre, and for a long time has been quarried 
also. ISear the quarries was formerly a mound, on which 
stood gibbets; the bodies of the criminals were left to decay 
m a charnel-house underneath. Since the abolition of this 
place of execution, about the beginning of the last century, so 
admirably described in the Notre Dame de Paris of Victor Hugo, 
Ihe contents ot all the sewers of the houses of Paris have been 
deposited here; and it is now the spot where most of the night- 
carts of Paris are emptied. A raised causeway of stone advances 
between two black and deep reservoirs : along the edges of the 
upper one the carts, which are enormous tuns placed on wheels, 
are arranged, and empty their contents into a shelving trough 
placed a little below the causeway, from whence, after much 
raking and examination, they fall into the reservoir. Men 
remain here whole days searching for money, jewels, and 
other valuable articles, which may chance to be found in the 
sewers, and are sometimes very successful in their search. The 
contents of the upper pool drain into the second, and from 
thence into three others successively; the water escapes into 
three still lower ones, whence, after long stagnation, it is con¬ 
veyed in barrels to an adjoining manufactory of sal ammoniac, 
where it is subjected to the usual chemical process for the 
extraction of that salt. The sediment is cut out of the pools 
when full, dried by exposure to the air in thin layers, and 
then used for manure. By the sides of the upper pool were 
lormerly slaughter-houses for horses, where most of the worn- 
out animals of the capital were brought, and where after being 
killed the different parts of their bodies were carefully cutup 
and separated for purposes of manufacture. All this is now 
effected at an adjacent village called Les Verlus. The skins, 
the bones, the blood, and the flesh, are sold for different eco¬ 
nomical purposes, and considerable profit is made by this trade. 
About 10,000 horses, dead or alive, are annually brought to 
this place. The existence of the receptacles before mentioned, 
on such a large scale, and in the immediate vicinity of the 
town, is a very serious nuisance, on account of the fetid smelt 

22 


254 


FIFTH ARIlONDISSEMENT. 


it spreads lar around. Several attempts have been made to 
remedy it, and the municipality of Paris intend to abolish it, 
hut nothing has yet been definitively settled as to the manner 
or place ot its removal. Absorbing wells are now being tried 
in different places, and have promised more favourable results. 
It has been also proposed to remedy this by establishing de- 
posoirs, or subterranean pits, that may be hermetically closed, 
from which the liquid part would he conveyed through pipes 
along the banks ol the Canal de l’Ourcq as far as the voirie of 
the loresl ol Bondy, about 8 kilometres from Paris. The sedi¬ 
ment would be transported in barrels by water. Anew system 
foi utilizing the dead bodies of horses has also been applied 
with success. Immediately after the animal is killed, and the 
skin taken off, all the other parts of the body are put into iron 
cylinders, into which steam is then lorced, and the whole kept 
at a high temperature until all the gelatinous matter is ex¬ 
tracted. The effluvium is thus prevented, and the matter ex¬ 
tracted, as well as the refuse, is found to be very valuable for 
agricultural and other purposes. 

On the northern bank of the Canal St. Marlin is the 

Entrepoi des Sees, lately removed hither from the Boulevard 
BeaunicUehais. The principal store is of great size, and about 
9,000,000 II). of salt issue hence for the annual consumption of 
the capital. Opposite to it, on the southern bank, are the other 
greniers of the Douanes de Paris, as well as the 

Entrepot de la Compagnie des Douanes, Place des Marais.— 
This establishment, erected in 1834, by a joint-stock company, 
for the reception of goods in bond, consists of a spacious area 
bordering the Canal St. Marlin, in which, besides sheds, are 
two large warehouses 250 feet in length, with a covered court 
between, for stowage. They are built of stone with brick 
arches; all the wood work is of oak. Each building consists of 
four stories, and is perfectly dry and well kept. Sugar,.coffee, 
foreign wines, drugs, wool, cotton, etc., are the principal goods 
stored here; they pay a moderate duty for warehouse-room 
and if not removed in the space of three years are sold to 
defray the expenses, the surplus being remitted to the owners 
ot the goods. Adjoining to the warehouses is a building where 
the Custom-house clerks, etc., have their offices. Strangers are 
admitted on application at the bureau every day, except Sun¬ 
days and festivals, from 9 to 4. v 

Close to these buildings is the Douane de Paris, transported 
hithei from the rues du Faubourg Poissonniere and d’Enghien 
Theapproach to the director’s residence, etc., is in the rue de 
Entiepot des Marais; that to the warehouses is in the rue de 
la Douane. A double doorway, between the two greater stores, 


PORTE ST. MARTIN. 255 

leads into an arcaded court, having medallions on which are 
inscribed the names of the principal commercial cities through¬ 
out the world. The whole of this spacious area is covered with 
a roof pierced with skylights, and resting upon immense iron 
arches. The building is of the Doric order. 

At No. 12, rue de la Douane, is an elegantly sculptured edi- 
fice at the end of an avenue, formerly occupied by the Ma¬ 
sonic Grand Orient, and now devoted to the Conseil des 
Prud’hommes. (See p. 50.) 

On the Boulevard St. Martin, the visitor will perceive the 

Chateau d’Eau.— This magnificent fountain, executed in 1811 
from the designs of Girard, and supplied with water by the 
Canal de l’Ourcq, consists of four concentric basins placed one 
above another, the largest of which is 90 feet in diameter. From 
the centre of the uppermost rises a shaft, ornamented with 
leaves supporting two paterae of different dimensions from 
whence the water falls in a fine cascade from basin to basin 
Four pedestals support each two antique lions spouting forth 
water. I he lions, shaft, and paterae, are of cast-iron, and the 
basins are ol ChAteau-Landon stone, highly polished This 
fountain cost 100,000 francs. 

A flower-market is held round this fountain on Mondays and 
Thursdays. To the west stands the elegant building of the 
Thedtre de VAmbigu, displaying its pedimenied front adorned 
with the three orders, besides graceful statues in lateral niches- 
and further on, in the same direction, the inelegant Thddlre de 
la Porte St. Martin. (See Theatres .) 

At the western end of this boulevard is the 

Porte St. Martin.— This triumphal arch was built in 1674 
after the designs of Bullet, a pupil of Blondel, architect of the 
Porte St. Denis. It is 54 feet wide, by an elevation of 54 feet 
including the attic, the height of which is 11 feet. It is pierced 
by three arches; that in the centre is 15 feet wide by 30 in ele¬ 
vation; the lateral arches are eight in breadth by 16 in height. 
Both the fronts display vermiculated rustics, and the spantfrils 
are adorned with bas-reliefs. Those towards the city repre¬ 
sent the taking of Besancon and the Triple Alliance; those 
towards the faubourg the taking of Limbourg, and the defeat 
of the Germans by Louis XIV. This prince is oddly represented 
in the character of Hercules, with a large wig, leaning on a 
club. Between the consoles of the entablature are military 
designs; in the centre is the sun, which f.ouis XIV. took for his 
emblem. On the southern attic is the following inscription 

Ludovico Magno VesonlioneSequanisque bis caplis, et fraclis Germa- 
norum, Hispanorum, Batavorumque exercilibus. Prsef. et yEdiles P. C. G. 
B.S. H. MDGLXXXIV. 


FIFTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 


256 

The northern one has the following : 

Ludovico Magno, quod Limburgo capto impotentes hostium minas 
ubique repressit. Prsef. et jEdiles P. C. G. ann. R. S. H. MDCLXXY. 

This arch, which was entirely repaired in 1819 and 1820, is 
more correct in its proportions than the Porte St. Denis, blit 
from its small size and the lowness of its situation produces 
little effect. Following the Boulevards, nearly opposite the 
Porte St. Denis, is the rue de la Lune, in which is 

Notre Dame de Bonne Nouvelle, 2d district church of the 
6th arrondissemenl.—The first church that stood on this spot, 
erected in 1651, was destroyed during the siege of Paris in the 
wars of the League, in 1593, but was rebuilt in 1G24. The 
tower of this second church is still standing, and is rather a 
picturesque object. The present church, rebuilt in 1825, con¬ 
sists of a nave and two aisles separated from it by Doric co¬ 
lumns supporting arches. The Lady-chapel to the left forms a 
transept to the main body. The choir is semicircular; its 
cupola is pierced with a skylight, and ornamented with mould¬ 
ed compartments. The eastern aisle begins with the baptismal 
chapel, in which is a fine plaster statue of St. John the Bap¬ 
tist, by Debay; next to it is a fine oil painting by Schnetz, re¬ 
presenting Ste. Genevieve relieving the sufferings of the be¬ 
sieged Parisians; lastly, Christ blessing little children, by 
Bourdon. The next chapel has a good painting of Ste. Eliza¬ 
beth of Hungary in the act of praying. In the third is the 
Virgin crushing the serpent; and in the Lady-chapel eight 
saints in fresco by Hesse. In the following are St. Vincent de 
Paule preaching, and the Apotheosis of St. Bernard. Over the 
door of the sacristy fronting the aisle is a picture of Marie de 
Medicis and Anne of Austria receiving the cross from an angel; 
and as a pendant to this, over a similar door in the western 
aisle, is Queen Henrietta, the consort of Charles I. of England 
with her three sons. These paintings are interesting as con¬ 
temporary compositions. In the chapels of the western aisle 
are St. Peter in vinculis, the Adoration of the Heart of Jesus, 
by Hohlfeld, St. Nicholas, and, lastly, St. Louis assisting the 
wounded, and a Magdalen, by Copinet. Over the principal 
entrance is an Entombment, and, in a recess facing the western 
aisle, an Assumption of the Virgin. Around the choir are five 
good paintings, representing various passages of the Virgin’s 
life, and above, the frieze is adorned with a fine monochrome 
fresco, by Pujol, representing the heavenly host. 

On leaving this church the visitor will proceed to the 

Entrepot General des Glaces, 313, rue St. Denis.—This is 
a large plate-glass warehouse, which has replaced a royal ma- 


COUR DES MIRACLES. 257 

nufactory formerly established at 24, rue de Reuilly, but 
abolished after the revolution of 1830. It belongs to two com¬ 
panies, that of Monterme, and of Quirin and Cirey. The art 
of manufacturing mirrors was established in France in 1634, 
and, in 1666, Colbert created a royal manufactory, and erected 
a spacious edifice for it in the rue de Reuilly. Previous to the 
formation ot this establishment, the finest mirrors came from 
Venice. The glass employed in forming mirrors was blown 
until 1559, when a Frenchman, named Thevart, discovered the 
art of casting it, which process was carried to a high degree 
of perfection in 1688, by M. Lucas de Nehon; the art of polish¬ 
ing was invented by Riviere Dufresne. The glass sold at this 
establishment is cast at St. Gobin and at Cirey, near la Fere, 
and polished at Chauny. It is then brought to Paris to be sil¬ 
vered and sold. Glasses can now be made of the dimensions 
of 172 inches by 110 inches; in the lime of Louis XIV. the 
largest glass made was 48 inches square. (1) The price of mir¬ 
rors increases in a multiplied ratio in proportion to the size, 
on account of the great difficulty in casting large plates. A glass 
20 inches by 12 may, however, be obtained for about 8 fr., 
while the largest just mentioned may cost 10,000 fr. and more. 
Visitors are admitted to see the operation of silvering, etc., 
every day from 9 to 12 on applying to the Porter, to whom a 
small fee should be given. 

In the rue St. Denis, No. 277, is the extensive establishment 
of the Bains St. Sauveur. No. 9, in the adjoining rue St. Sau- 
veur, is a Maison de Secours for the fifth arrondissemenl. At 
no great distance, in the rue Thevenot, is a narrow street lead¬ 
ing to the spot once known as the Cour des Miracles, the de¬ 
scription of which will not be readily forgotten by the readers 
of Victor Hugo. Even up to the reign of Louis XIV. it was the 
squalid receptacle of the most abandoned and depraved of 
Paris. In wretched hovels surrounding a court more than 500 
families lived heaped together; and hence issued every day 
through the city a plague of vice and crime and disease. The 
inmates had a language of their own called Argot, still used 
by thieves, and were subject to leaders of their own. In 1667 
this nuisance was partially suppressed. The site is now a quiet 
commercial court-yard. The visitor will remark the dark and 
filthy streets occupying the lower part of this arrondissement. 
Their names will sometimes strike him as singular, and he will 
generally find some interesting story or tradition attached to 
them, recorded in the larger works on the antiquities of Paris. (2) 

(1) The largest iron table cast in France for polishing, etc., was made 
in 1841, and weighed 25 tons. It is at Cirey. 

(2) See History of Paris, 3 vols. Published by A. and W. Galignani. 


258 SIXTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 

From the rue Thevenot the stranger is led to the rue Mont- 
orgueil, and, following a southern direction, he will meet with 
the Marchd aux Iluitres, a market destined exclusively for the 
sale of oysters, which was opened in 1844; (1) and a few steps • 
further, at No. 34, rue Mauconseil, is the Halle aux Cuirs, for 
the sale of all kinds of leather. It was built in 1784, on the site 
of the Hotel de Bourgogne, where the Confreres de la Passion 
gave dramatic representations. 


Amm(Q)OT)M5iMniOTo 

This is the most straggling and incompact of all the arron- 
dissements. The visitor may follow the boulevards, and enter 
it by the Boulevard du Temple, where there is the new Thed- 
tre Historique, opened in April 1847, besides several of the 
minor theatres situated close to one another; the descriptions 
of which will be found in the chapter on Theatres. At No. 50, 
stands a large and newly erected house, which has replaced a 
mean and very small one, from an upper window of a wing of 
which Fieschi discharged his Infernal Machine, on the 28th 
July, 1835, against Louis Philippe, by which Marshal Mortier, 
Colonel Rieussec, and other persons, were killed, as well as a 
number wounded. Immediately opposite is the Jardin Turc. 
(See Theatres, Gardens, etc.) North of the boulevard this ar- 
rondissement contains little worthy of notice. At. No. 68, rue 
du Faubourg du Temple, is a large barrack for infantry, and 
at the western end of the rue St. Maur a new market has been 
erected. South of the boulevard, and parallel to it, is the rue 
Vendome, which contains some of the finest hotels in Paris. 
Descending the rue du Temple, the visitor will see on his left 
the establishment of the Bams Turcs, No. 94, and nearly oppo¬ 
site the small but elegant front of 

Ste. Elisabeth, 2nd district church of 6th arrondissement.— 
This church, originally the chapel of a convent for nuns called 
the Dames de Ste. Elisabeth, was erected in 1628. It is dedi¬ 
cated to Ste. Elisabeth of Hungary. The front consists of a base¬ 
ment story with fluted Doric pilasters, and an upper Ionic 
one supporting a sculptured circular pediment. The interior 
consists of a nave with Doric pilasters, and two aisles; the 
southern one has plain cross-vaults; those of the northern are 
ribbed, with plain bosses in the centre of the ribs. Some of the 
windows are pointed, others in the Saxon style. In the first 
chapel of the southern aisle is an Adoration of the Shepherds; 

(l) The consumption of oysters in Paris is calculated at from 1 , 700,000 
to 1,800,000 fr. 



MARCHE DU VIEUX LINGE. 259 

in the chapel of Ste. Elisabeth are two frescos by Serrur, and 
a magnificent altar-piece by Blonde], representing Ste. Elisabeth 
depositing her crown at the Saviour’s shrine. Between the win¬ 
dows is Judas kissing the Saviour, by Fourau. The aisle around 
the choir is receiving fresco-paintings by MM. Roger, Bezard, 
Beaume, and Jouy. The choir is separated from this aisle by 
four Doric columns disposed in a semicircle. Behind the high 
altar is the Lady-chapel, with six stained windows, represent¬ 
ing Sainls, and executed by Mr. Wylde, an Englishman. The 
northern aisle has been recently painted in the Byzantine 
style. In the first recess, the tympan of the ogive, painted by 
Roger, represents King David and Magdalen; two angels are 
above. The intrados of the pointed arch is painted with me¬ 
dallions containing cherubs and other devices. The following 
recesses are formed into chapels; the first, painted by Bezard, 
represents Ste. Genevieve; above, is a medallion with the .Sa¬ 
viour; Faith and Hope are on either side. The wainscoting 
displays some fine modern bas-reliefs carved in oak. In the 
next, is a Mater Dolorosa, by Bezard, and in the last, the bap¬ 
tismal chapel, is St. John baptizing Christ, by Perignon. The 
font is well sculptured in marble. The semi-cupola of the choir 
displays a fine fresco by Alaux, representing the apotheosis of 
Ste. Elisabeth, with several historical portraits. The holy water 
basins in the nave have two bronze angels each in alto-rilievo. 
This church is well worth a visit. 

The adjoining rue Neuve St. Laurent leads to the rue Ste. Eli¬ 
sabeth, behind this church, where is the City school of instruc¬ 
tion for both sexes belonging to the sixth arrondissement. In 
the rue Neuve St. Laurent is also, a few steps off, an Ecole 
Primaire Supe’rieure, and opposite, at No. 14, is an entrance to 

The Synagogue, having its principal entrance at 15, rue Notre 
Dame de Nazareth. This temple cannot vie in elegance with 
some of the far-famed temples of other capitals. The interior 
is Doric; thirty-six columns support the gallery for the ladies; 
the Tabernacle is to the south, consisting of two Corinthian 
columns supporting a pediment; in the centre is a raised plat¬ 
form for the desk. The building is considered too small for the 
congregation. The Great Rabbi is M. Marchand Ennery. Service 
is performed on Fridays at 7 p. m. and Saturdays at 7 a. m. 

Returning to the rue du Temple, we find the 

Marche du Vieux Linge.— This market was erected in 1809, 
upon part of the site of the ancient Temple. It consists of four 
galleries, containing 1888 shops or stalls. Here old clothes, 
linen, shoes, iron, tools, etc., are sold at low prices. Behind 
this market is an arcaded building with shops, erected in 1788 
on speculation, when the Temple was a sanctuary for debtors. 


260 SIXTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 

The Temple (1) formerly contained a large square lower Hank¬ 
ed with four turrets, built in 1222. In that tower Louis XVI* 
and his family were imprisoned in 1792, and hence he was led 
to the scaffold. Sir Sidney Smith, Toussaint Louverture, Mo¬ 
reau, and Pichegru, were also confined there. In 1805 the tower 
was demolished. Before the Revolution, the Temple consisted 
of two distinct parts, viz., the Temple properly so called, and 
the palace of the grand prior. The former was private pro¬ 
perty, and consisted of hotels, gardens, and dwellings for 
tradesmen, artists, and also for debtors who look refuge at the 
Temple to avoid arrest. The palace of the grand prior is all 
that now remains of the ancient Temple. It was built about 
1566, by Jacques de Souvre, grand prior; and the Chevalier 
d’Orleans, afterwards invested with that dignity, caused con¬ 
siderable repairs to be made to it in 1721. The Duke of An- 
gouleme was the last grand prior of the Temple. In 1812, this 
building was repaired and embellished, with the design of be¬ 
coming a residence for the Ministre des Culles; and in 1814 it 
was converted into a convent. The front consists of a basement 
story only, decorated with a portico formed ofsix Doric columns, 
and flanked by two projecting bodies; in front ofeachisafoun¬ 
tain in the form of a pedestal, surmounted by a colossal statue 
by Pujol. The statue on the right represents the Marne, and 
that on the left the Seine. The front towards the court is deco¬ 
rated with eight coupled Ionic columns, above which are stone 
figures, of Justice, by Dumont; Hope, by Lesueur; Abundance, 
by Foucou; and Prudence, by Boichot. A new chapel was 

(l) The order ofTemplars, founded at Jerusalem in the lith century, 
during the Crusades, consisted at first of only six monks, and a grand 
master. They came to Europe from Palestine in 11 28 to make prose¬ 
lytes, and were so successful that in a short time they became posses¬ 
sors of the vast extent of ground between the Faubourg du Temple and 
the Rue de la Yerrerie, with a part of the Marais called Culture du Tem¬ 
ple, where they established the seat of their rule, and exercised for more 
than two centuries a power, the prerogatives and abuses of which mo- 
narchs were in a measure forced to respect. The Temple was such a 
stronghold that Louis IX., before setting out for the Crusades, had his 
treasure conveyed there, as did Philippe le Hardi and Philippe le Bel. 
Their accumulation of wealth, their gross irregularities, and their tur¬ 
bulent conduct at length excited the anger of the royal authority, and 
Philippe le Bel suppressed the order in 1312, putting many of them to 
the torture on a charge of sorcery, and seizing their possessions. In 
1314 Jacques de Molay, and Guy, brother of Robert dauphin of Auver¬ 
gne, two of the chiefs of the order, were burned alive on the spot where 
now stands the equestrian statue of Henry IV. on the Pont ISeuf. Part 
of their wealth went to pay the expenses of their prosecution, and the 
rest was assigned to the brethren of the order of St John of Jerusalem, 
afterwards called Knights of Malta. 


CONSERVATOIRE DES ARTS ET METIERS. 261 

erected in 1823, between the palace and the Marche du Temple. 
Its front is ornamented with two Ionic pilasters, surmounted 
by a triangular pediment, in the tympanum ofwhich are sacred 
emblems. The interior is decorated with columns of the Ionic 
order supporting arches surmounted by 3 Hat compartment- 
ed cupolas. The private chapel of the nuns forms a species of 
ti ansept on the left, and is railed and latticed. Opposite are 
two pictures by Lafond, one representing St. Louis, the other 
St. Clotilda, and a copy of a Holy Family. The convent belongs 
to the Dames Benedictines de VAdoraiion Perpetuelle du St. 
Sacrement. 

The Fontaine de Vendome was attached to the ancient wall 
of the Temple, and is named after the Chevalier de Vendome, 
grand prior of France. It is surmounted by a cupola, and is 
adorned with a military trophy. 

The visitor will find himself, on leaving this street, near 
The Marche St. Martin, a parallelogram of 300 feet by 180, 
erected in 1807 in the enclosure of the'abbey of St. Martin des 
Champs. The stalls, nearly 400, are arranged in two large 
buildings. In the centre of the market is a fountain, consisting 
of a basin supported by three allegorical figures in bronze, re¬ 
presenting the genii of hunting, fishing, and agriculture; two 
smaller fountains stand at the opposite railing. Near the Mar¬ 
che St. Martin is a public promenade planted with trees. 

From hence the rues de la Croix and du Vert Bois lead into 
the rue St. Martin, on the eastern side of which is the 
Fontaine St. Martin.— This fountain, built against a round 
and spired tower that formed part of the walls of the ancient 
abbey of St. Marlin des Champs, consists of a circular basement 
and two pilasters in rustic Doric, surmounted by a pediment, 
ornamented with an escutcheon, and crowned by a shell. The 
tower is remarkable, as being the only one remaining of the 
many that were placed at regular intervals round the outer wall 
of the celebrated monastery that stood where we now find the 
Conservatoire des Arts et Metiers, rue St. Martin, No 208. 
—M. Gregoire, bishop of Blois, was the first who suggested 
the idea of forming a national repository of machines, models, 
drawings, etc., for the improvement of machinery and imple¬ 
ments connected with manufactures, agriculture, and other 
branches of industry. The formation of this establishment was 
ordained by a conventional decree in 1794, but it acquired 
little importance till 1798. Three repositories of machines 
previously existed in Paris. At the Louvre were those which 
M. Pajol d’Ozembray presented to the Academy of Sciences, 
and which had been considerably augmented by that learned 
body. At the Hotel de Mortagne, rue deCharonne, were.500 ma- 


SIXTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 


262 

chines, bequeathed to the government in 1782, by the celebra¬ 
ted Yaucanson. Another repository was in the rue de l’Univer- 
sile, and contained a numerous collection of agricultural 
implements of all countries. These three repositories were 
formed into one by a decree of the Council of Five Hundred, 
dated 1708, and established in the buildings of the ancient abbey 
of St. Martin des Champs. By a law of 1798, all persons to 
whom patents were granted were bound to deposit at the Con¬ 
servatoire des Arts el Metiers their original patents, together 
with the description, plans, designs, and models relating thereto, 
and the Conservatoire was authorised to have them printed, 
engraved, and published. In 1810, a gratuitous school of arts 
was formed, which, in 1817, was completely reorganised, and, 
in 1819 and 183G, received considerable additions. In 1838, a’ 
royal ordonnance established it on its present footing. (See 
page 78.) Connected with it are two royal schools of arts and 
trades at Chalons and Angers. The buildings in which this 
establishment is placed are remarkable : they consist of the 
vast corps de logis of the abbey of St. Martin des Champs, and 
of the chapel and other public apartments of that religious 
house. The chapel was built in the early part of the 13th cen¬ 
tury by Pierre de Montereau, the architect of the Sainte Cha- 
pelle; at its eastern end are remains of an earlier building in 
the Doric style; it is plain, and preserves but few traces of its 
ancient condition. The interior is of fine Gothic architecture, 
and will soon be fitted up to contain part of the interesting 
collection of the Conservatoire. Adjoining are spacious halls 
destined for Hie same purpose, and partly enclosing a square 
court with the new Doric buildings for lecture-rooms, which 
will also soon be opened. The refectory is one of the most 
curious pieces of architecture in Paris, while, at the same time, 
it is one of the most perfectly preserved. This also was built 
by Pierre de Montereau, and was finished in all its details with 
the utmost care. It is 42 metres by 7, and is destined to con¬ 
tain the library. It is bisected by a line of seven lofty and slen¬ 
der columns, intersected by bands equidistant from the pedes¬ 
tals and capitals, which are octagonal and foliaged. From each 
of these spring eight ribs expanding along the groins of the 
vault. Those of the main walls spring from the capitals of 
shorter columns resting upon sculptured brackets. Towards 
the eastern end is a Gothic recess or niche, with a groined head; 
a secret staircase, with a balustrade forming part of the wall’ 
leads to it. The building bad originally eight windows on each 
side, and two in front; those on the southern side are now wall¬ 
ed up, and only the roses are left open. In the others, the 
rose surmounts coupled ogives, a general ogive circumscribing 


CONSERVATOIRE DES ARTS ET METIERS. 263 

I he whole. The main walls are flanked externally fly substan¬ 
tial buttresses. This beautiful hall, which will be further en¬ 
riched by stained glass, is well worth the attention of the anti¬ 
quarian.—A new entrance will be opened to the Conservatoire 
in the rue St. Martin northward of the present one, which leads 
the visitor through a narrow alley to the first court, containing 
the oilices, and the galleries of models, a few only of which 
aie at present accessible to the public, before ascending the 
magnificent double staircase leading to the Museum, the visitor 
will remark the large hall on the ground-floor, containing a 
plaster cast, by Ruxtheil, of Daedalus and Icarus. This hall 
leads to a spacious garden, which, however, is not public. On 
ascending the staircase, the lolly parabolic vault surmounting 
it will be remarked. 1 he collection of models and machines pre¬ 
served here is very extensive and various, consisting of nearly 
alt that are used in France in every branch of industry. The 
catalogue of the different articles is not yet finished, but it is to 
be hoped that its publication will not be long delayed, as their 
classification is expected to be shortly completed. The visitor 
will find a fine collection of exquisitely-finished models of 
steam-engines, both stationary and locomotive, as well as a 
long series of models of various mills, work-shops of numerous 
trades, potteries, machines used in building and engineering 
operations, etc.; also a complete model of "a railroad, with a 
train of locomotive steam-engines and waggons attached to it; 
models of turning-machines, brew-houses, smelting-houses and 
valuable engineering andsurveyinginstrumenlsof variouskinds, 
constructed by celebrated makers. The coining-stamp and borer 
used for the emission of the assignats, and a dividing-machine 
used by Ramsden, will be remarked. The whole collection is 
peculiarly interesting and instructive, and is one of the most 
valuable in Europe. It is highly gratifying to an Englishman to 
find the names of his countrymen abounding here—Maudslay, 
Watt, Stephenson, Davis, Taylor, Edwards, Judd, Barker, Ai- 
kins, etc., etc. The establishment is open to the public on Sun¬ 
days and Thursdays, from 10 to 4, and to foreigners with pass¬ 
ports, as well as to privileged persons, on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, 
and Saturdays, from 11 to 3. The Library contains 20,000 volumes 
on mechanical and mathematical subjects, and is open every 
day, Mondays excepted, from 10 to 3. The lectures, hitherto 
interrupted on account of the improvements in progress, will 
be re-opened in November 1847; they are all public and gra¬ 
tuitous, and turn upon geometry, drawing and designing, agri¬ 
culture, mechanics, economie industrielle, legislation indus- 
trielle, chemistry, practical natural philosophy, and explanation 
of machines. 


264 SIXTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 

A programme of Hie days, etc., on which these lectures are 
delivered may he had at the Conservatoire. 

Almost immediately to the south of the Conservatoire des 
Arts et Metiers will be perceived 

St. Nicolas des Champs, parish church of the 6th arrondisse- 
ment, which existed upon this spot as early as 1119, and be¬ 
came parochial in 1184. It was enlarged in 1420, and in 1576 
the choir and the chapels behind it were constructed. The 
western front is of the period 1420, and is in the purest point¬ 
ed style, displaying hvo gables flanked with crockelted pin¬ 
nacles and connected by flying arches, with the front of the 
nave also terminating in a gable end. The porch is magnifi¬ 
cently sculptured, and adorned with eight statues of saints. 
The principal window over the porch and the circular one 
above are remarkable for their elegant tracery and sculpture. 
The tower is square, flanked with buttresses, and crowned 
with an open-worked parapet; gargouilles project from its 
sides. The interior consists of a nave and choir with double 
aisles, lateral chapels, and a demi-transept towards the south. 
In the nave and its aisles the Gothic style is maintained, while 
the choir is a mixture of Greek and Gothic, entirely out of 
keeping with the remainder. The columns of the choir are 
elliptical, and of the Doric order; they support bold vaulting- 
ribs, and their elongated forms show that the taste for the 
pointed style was not extinct at the time of their erection. As 
a strange peculiarity may be remarked the ribs of the choir 
springing from Ionic pilasters resting on the Doric capitals of 
the lower columns. Both nave and choir have large clerestory 
W'indows with simple tracery, but no triforium gallery. The 
high altar is ha-ndsome, formed of Corinthian columns of dark 
marble, surmounted by a pediment. The picture between the 
columns is by Vouet, representing the Assumption. This church 
is chiefly remarkable for the pictures it contains. In the baptis¬ 
mal chapel, on the south of the western door, is a curious Bap¬ 
tism of Christ, of the early Italian school. In the southern aisle, 
in the Chapelle des Trepasses, is a well-executed Deliverance 
of Souls from Purgatory, and another by Bouget, representing 
Christ in the Garden of Olives. The adjoining one contains an 
excellent picture of Christ bearing the Gross, by Coutant, and 
in that next to it is a valuable Ste. Genevieve. The Raising of 
Lazarus, by Souchon, is in the next. A circumcision in the fol¬ 
lowing one, and a large and very curious picture of Louis XIII. 
making his vow to the Virgin, are well worthy of examination. 
In the 6th chapel is a Holy Family, and in the 9th, dedicated 
to St. Bruno, is the Apotheosis of that saint, by Lesueur. In the 
10th is St. Martin curing a leper, and in the 11th, the Lady- 


COUR BATAVE. 265 

chapel, the vault of which is tastefully groined, are two large 
paintings by Caminade, the Adoration of the Shepherds, and 
the Repose after the Flight to Egypt. In the ogive above the 
altar is a colossal bust of Christ, painted on volvic lava by 
M. Perlet, resembling the Byzantine mosaics; its surface is 
unperishable, being of the nature of enamel. Behind the high 
altar is a chapel of the Holy Sacrament, enclosed by the altar 
itselt and the apsis. The altar-piece represents the Last Supper. 
In the chapel of St. Cecilia is the Crowning with thorns; in 
the 17 th, dedicated to St. Vincent de Paule, the wainscoting 
contains three excellent old oil-paintings on wood, represent¬ 
ing the Passion. In the next is St. Charles Borromeo relieving 
the plague-stricken at Milan, and a Sle. Elisabeth. In the Cha¬ 
pel of St. Stephen, opposite the south door of the church, is a 
large and well-painted picture of the saint by the bedside of a 
sick man. It is rare to find so many paintings of merit in the 
same church. The southern porch, consisting of four Compo¬ 
site pilasters supporting a triangular pediment, is one of the 
most complicated specimensof elaborate sculpture in existence. 
Many distinguished persons were buried here; among them, 
Budceus, the restorer of Greek literature in France; the philoso¬ 
pher Gassendi; Henry and Adrian de Valois, historians; and 
Mile. Scuderi. 

Near this church, 151, rue St. Martin, is a fine old hotel, of 
the days of Louis XIV., with a handsome arched entrance, and 
an interior front decorated with Ionic pilasters. This arrondisse- 
ment, the eastern limit of which is here determined by the 
western side of the rue St. Martin, reaches as far as the river. 
The principal monument of interest which it possesses is the 

Tower of St. Jacques de la Boucherie, erected in the years 
1508-22.—This is the only part remaining of the church of that 
name, which was demolished during the Revolution, and oc¬ 
cupied the area of the present market. This magnificent tower, 
which is 156 feet in height, was formerly surmounted by a spire 
30 feet high, and is at present one of the purest and most pre¬ 
cious relics of Gothic architecture extant. The turret at the 
north-western angle, and the battlement at the summit, with 
the gargouilles of immense size projecting from it, and its pro¬ 
fuse and graceful tracery, are its principal features. It has been 
purchased by the municipality of Paris, and will be completely 
restored. The market established at its foot is for the sale of 
old clothes and linen. 

From this Tower, the stranger will find his way to the 

Cour Batave, 124, rue St. Denis, so called because it was 
erected by a company of Dutch merchants in 1791. The prin¬ 
cipal court was formerly surrounded with Ionic porticos and a 

23 


266 


SIXTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 


covered gallery; but its effect is much diminished in conse¬ 
quence of the porticos having been filled up with shops. This 
structure cost more than 1,800,000 fr.; and if the Revolution 
had not prevented the complete execution of the plan, it would 
have formed a magnificent monument. 

Northward of this, and in the same street, is 

St. Leu et St. Gilles, 1st district church of 6th arrondisse- 
ment.—On the spot where this small church now stands, a 
chapel was erected in 1236, which, in 1617, became parochial. 
The building was repaired in 1320, and in 1611, the choir, with 
its aisles and chapels, was rebuilt. The front is gabled, and 
was to have been Hanked by two spired towers; one only of 
these however exists, and, though bearing on its front the 
date 1236, has evidently been reconstructed. The doorway is 
pointed, and recedes by gradual mouldings into a kind of 
porch; it is surmounted by a gabled pediment. Above is a 
large Saxon window, tlanked by columns supporting an ogive. 
The interior consists of a nave and choir with aisles; the ribs 
ot the nave unite in plain bosses, and spring from the capitals 
ol clustered columns originally reaching to the ground, but 
barbarously lopped about half-way down, for the purpose of 
placing pictures. In the northern aisle the ribs spring from the 
wall, and the original span of the arches is narrowed by pro¬ 
jecting piers ending in plain pointed arches. In the southern 
aisle, the ribs spring from brackets. In the choir, they spring 
from the doric capitals of very lofty pilasters, and unite in a 
highly-sculptured pendant boss. The choir is higher than the 
nave. Some canopies and brackets with the figures of Sts. 
Gilles, Peter, Vincent de Paule, Chrysostom, Leu, Paul Bor- 
romeo, and Austin, lately placed on the piers of this part of the 
church, are curious. The high altar was raised in 1780, and 
a chapel constructed underneath by the knights of the Holy 
Sepulchre, consisting of 8 sepulchral Doric columns without 
bases, supporting a cupola pierced with a skylight. Georges 
Cadoudal, when pursued, contrived to conceal himself in it for 
several days. This church is very rich in relics: it was the only 
one in which the priests ventured to perform mass for the re¬ 
pose of the soul of the Princesse de Lamballe, on the day of 
her horrible murder. A few days after it was put up to auction 
as national property, and bought for a trifling sum by two 
jews, who converted it into a warehouse for saltpetre. In 1802, 
when the churches were re-opened for the Catholic religion, 
they let it for 3000 fr. a-year, and subsequently increased it to 
10,000 fr., which continued till 1813, when the City repur¬ 
chased it lor 209,312 fr. Beginning from the southern aisle, we 
find the following paintingsSt. Gilles praying, by Delaval, 


ST. MERRI. 267 

an Annunciation, and the Adultress, by Delaval. In the first 
chapel is the portrait of St. Francis de Sales, taken after death, 
by Philippe de Champagne; also a good Adoration of the 
Shepherds and a Descent from the Cross. In the second is a 
Vision of Ste. Catherine, by Picot, and St. Lawrence receiving 
the crown of martyrdom; in the 3d, the Martyrdom of St. 
Denis, by Marquet, and a small painting of the Presentation, 
not without merit. In the 4th, St. Leu presented with the 
mitre, by De Vaines, and a Passion. The 5th, being the Lady- 
chapel, is being painted in the now fashionable Byzantine style 
by Cybot. In the 6th, is St. Leu blessing an infant, by Goyet. 
Some old stained glass by Pinaigrier is in the window. Outside 
this chapel is a small historical painting of the Exhumation of 
the Remains of Louis XVI. from under the vaults where the 
Chapelle Expiatoire now stands (see p. 203), in the presence of 
the Chapter of St. Denis. Before the Sacristy is a fine Madonna 
and Infant of the Italian school, and by its side a large paint¬ 
ing by Colson, of Christ restoring sight to the Blind. Next we 
see a curious specimen of sculpture, of 1065, in three compart¬ 
ments; the middle one representing the Lord’s Supper, that 
to the left, Judas kissing the Saviour, and the one to the right 
the Flagellation. In the nave are :—Ste. Margaret of Scotland, 
washing the feet of the Poor, by Gassies; St. Leu delivering 
prisoners, by Degeorge; St. Gilles discovered in his retreat by 
the king of the Goths, by Monvoisin; and Jesus walking on the 
waves, by Dubusc. St. Leu being considered a healer of the 
sick, the kings of France, on their accession, used to visit this 
church nine days in succession, to solicit health of the saint. 


The visitor will enter this arrondissement from the rue des 
Arcis, and, proceeding up the rue St. Marlin, will find, at No. 2, 
St. Merri, parish church of the 7th arrondissement.—This 
church was originally a small chapel dedicated to St. Pierre- 
des-Bois, near which St. Mederic or St. Merri died in 700. In 
1200, the church, being built on the site of the chapel, took for 
its patron St. Merri, whose relics it contained. The present 
edifice was begun in 1520, but not finished till 1612. The 
western front is a most beautiful specimen of the florid Gothic, 
of the dale 1520. The principal entrance, studded along its 
copious mouldings with small canopies, forming niches for 
saints, is pointed, and flanked by two lofty buttresses, adorned 
with pinnacled tracery, expanding in rich canopies below, 
forming heads of niches in which are placed the twelve apostles 
in a high state of preservation. Four well-sculptured gar- 



268 SEVENTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 

gouilles project from the buttresses. Above is a large window 
adorned with crockets. To the north is a beautiful octagonal 
turret, and to the south a modern square one, the Doric and 
Corinthian design of which unfortunately spoils the whole. 
The two lateral doors are equally well adorned with elaborate 
gothic tracery. The interior is cruciform, with double aisles, 
and bears a later date. The transepts have fine rose windows. 
In most of the windows are specimens of old stained glass, in¬ 
terspersed with modern specimens of the same sort. The 
junctures of the vaulting, mouldings, and piers, are all without 
capitals, according to the style prevalent in France in the 16th 
century, except in the chapels of the choir, where curious 
examples of large circular pillars with bands for capitals oc¬ 
cur. The keystones of The vaulting-ribs of the nave and of the 
aisles are good specimens of the workmanship of the time; 
and the ceiling of the intersection of the nave and transept is 
covered with florid tracery. The first chapel of the southern 
aisle, erected in 1754, is that of the Holy Sacrament; it com¬ 
municates with the aisle by three circular arches, and is 
adorned with Corinthian pilasters and three cupolas pierced 
with skylights. It contains a good picture, by Colson, of St. 
Charles Borromeo during the plague at Milan, and another of 
St- Chrysostom, by Peron. Over the lateral doors are alti- 
rilievi, and at the entrances are two plaster statues, St. Se¬ 
bastian, by Debay, and St. John the Baptist, by Laitie. This 
chapel, though handsome in itself, does not harmonise with 
the Gothic character of the church. Next is the chapel of 
Notre Dame des Suffrages, with Gothic carving in oak. In the 
following transept is a Virgin, painted by Carlin in 1753, St. 
Peter praying, and Christ at the well. In the third chapel is 
an Adoration of the Shepherds, in the 4lh the Apotheosis of St. 
Bernard, by Robert ; in the 5th, St. Germain blessing Ste. Ge¬ 
nevieve, by Picot; in the 6lh a Mater Dolorosa, and an Annun¬ 
ciation; the stained glass in the window is by Pinaigrier. The 
8th chapel, painted in fresco by Lehmann, represents the life 
of St. John the Baptist in several compartments. The 9th, 
painted by Amaury Duval, contains subjects relating to St.’ 
Philomene; the 10th, by Chasseriau, is dedicated to Ste. Mary 
of Egypt; the lllli, by Lepaulle, contains the portrait of St. 
Vincent de Paule, and the same saint a slave in Africa. In the 
following northern transept is St. Vincent de Paule praying, by 
Vanloo; also a large painting of a miraculous discovery of 
stolen church-treasure by a curate of St. Merri; then the 
Sacred Host appearing to St. Merri. In the next chapel, de¬ 
dicated to Ste. Genevieve, the visitor will remark the panel of 
the altar-table, a valuable ancient painting on wood, probably 


HOTEL DES ARCHIVES DU ROYAUME. 269 

of the 14tli century, representing that saint as a shepherdess; 
a wolf fawns upon her. In the next is a Descent from the 
Cross, of some value. 

This church is remarkable for the obstinate resistance made 
in it and the adjoining streets, during the events of 1832, to 
the King’s troops. 

The Fontaine Maubuee, built in 1733, is at the corner of the 
rue St. Marlin and Maubuee, which latter leads to the small 
rue Transnonain, which has acquired melancholy celebrity from 
a conflict between the people and the troops in April, 1834. 

In this arrondissement are to be found some of the most 
remarkable of the old hotels in Paris, and the visitor must pass 
among the narrow streets, of which this quarter is almost en¬ 
tirely composed, if he would have an idea of what Paris was 
one or two centuries ago. No. 32, rue Michel le Comte, and 
No. G3, in the adjoining rue St. Avoye, which is a continuation 
of the rue du Temple, are worthy of attention. 

The Hotel de St. Aignan, 57, rue St. Avoye, is a magnificent 
edifice built by Le Muet. The windows are adorned with pe¬ 
diments, and its Corinthian architecture is pure and of fine pro¬ 
portions, though the effect of the whole is now spoiled by two 
stories having been added to the original building. On its site 
stood the house where the Connetabie Anne de Montmorency 
died of his wounds after the battle of St. Denis, Nov. 12, 1507. 
Henry II. often resided here; and it was then called the Hotel 
de Montmorency. De Mesmes, President of the Parliament, af¬ 
terwards came into possession of it. 

On passing eastward by the rue des Vieilles-Audriettes, the 
visitor will find, at the corner of the rue du Chaume, 

The Fontaine de laNaiade, rebuilt in 1775, and adorned with 
a fine bas-relief of a naiad lying among rushes, by Mignot. 

The Hotel des Archives du Royaume is entered at No. 12, rue 
du Chaume.—The original building in which this great national 
collection is contained was formerly the palace of the Prince 
de Soubise, of the family of the Rohans. It was built upon the 
site of a mansion belonging to the Connetabie de Clisson ; and, 
after passing through the family of the Guises, became the pro¬ 
perty of the Rohans in 1697. The hotel itself appears to have 
been erected after that period; though at the western end are 
some remains of what was probably the gatehouse, with a 
turret of the 15th century. The old building extends to a great 
depth, and with its grands et petits appartements, as well as 
the gardens, constituted the proud residence of a family whose 
motto was, “Roi je ne suis; Prince ne daigne; Rohan je suis.” 
The spacious court is enclosed by a portico, of coupled Compo 
site columns. To the left is the principal body, composed ol a 


270 SEVENTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 

central pavilion of two stories, and wings of one story only, 
ornamented with coupled Composite columns, continued along 
the lower story of the pavilion, the upper story of which dis¬ 
plays coupled Corinthian columns crowned with a pediment 
bearing recumbent statues. Other statues adorn the wings. 
In a second court to the left the Ecole des Charles has been 
lately installed, for which see p. 81. Behind the principal 
body is a still larger court, in which elegant new buildings 
have been erected at the cost of 1,000,000 fr., but they are not 
yet sufficiently advanced to admit of description. The thorough 
alterations now in progress are the cause of this establish¬ 
ment being for the time totally closed to the public. The 
decorations of most of the apartments remain j the gilded or¬ 
naments are very abundant and exceedingly beautiful, and 
the paintings of the ceilings and panels are of great merit. The 
principal saloon of the grands apparlements is a model of the 
taste of 1730; it now forms the library of the archives, and 
contains a valuable bronze clock, with fine copies of the “ Day” 
and “Night” of Michael Angelo, as well as a large table of the 
same date. In the petits appartements is a window looking 
into the rue du Chaume, belonging to the boudoir of a Duchess 
de Guise, once the owner of the palace, from whence it is said 
her lover precipitated himself into the street on the approach 
of the Duke. After the Revolution, some families of noble 
birth, who had suffered by the limes, were lodged here by 
order of Napoleon; and in 1809 the whole edifice was con¬ 
secrated to the preservation of the archives of the nation. 
This precious collection originated with the National Assembly 
in 1789, and to it were afterwards joined, besides all the acts 
and proces-verbaux of the legislature, the domanial and ad¬ 
ministrative archives, the charters and other documents of the 
monastic bodies, public papers relating to the topography and 
statistics of the country, as well as several other objects of 
value and rarity. In 1810, 11, 12, all the riches of the archives 
of the countries conquered by Napoleon were deposited here- 
but these were taken away by the allied troops after the fall of 
the Emperor. The ancient nobility, also, on their return from 
emigration, demanded and obtained their title-deeds, which 
had been sequestrated during the Revolution. The collection 
at present is formed into six sections. The legislative section 
contains all the acts of the legislature, etc., forming a collec¬ 
tion of 7,000 cartons. The administrative section comprises all 
the papers emanating from the public authorities; among 
which are the arrets du conseil from 1593 to 1791; the whole 
in 40,000 cartons. The historical section is formed of the tresor 
des Charles from the 12th century to 1789, the historical monu- 









ST. FRANCOIS D’ASSISE. 271 

menls, and the titles and charters of the monastic bodies in- 
eluding a document said to be the original diploma of founda¬ 
tion granted by Childebert to the Abbey of St. Germain des 
Pres, and similar documents granted to the Abbey ot St. Denis 
by Dagobert, Clotaire, and Clovis II. Besides these it contains 
the archives of the military and religious orders, those relating 
to public instruction, to genealogy, etc. The number of car¬ 
tons is 5436‘. The topographical section consists of all the maps 
and surveys authorised by the state, to the number of 4616. 
The domanial section has the title-deeds of princes, nobles, and 
public bodies, deeds of sequestration, etc., in 26,000 cartons. 
The judicial section, kept at the Palais de Justice, contains ali 
the acts, decrees, and records of the parliaments and other 
courts of the kingdom, in 63,000 cartons. Besides these sec¬ 
tions a library of 14,000 volumes is attached to the archives, 
in which are to be kept the volumes of the Records Commission 
of England, presented by the British Government. The most 
interesting objects are the famous iron chest, made by order 
of the National Assembly in 1790, the seals and golden bulls 
ol the papal decrees, the keys of the Bastille, the silver keys 
of Namur presented to Louis XIV., the famous Livre Rouge 
found at Versailles, the testaments of Louis XVI. and Marie 
Antoinette, the journal of Louis XVI., the minute of the Droits 
de l’Homme, the plate of the assignats, medals of the empire, 
the standards of the metre, gramme, and decagramme, in 
platina, autograph letters of Napoleon, and among them the 
one written by him to Louis XVIII., together with a numerous 
collection of other curious objects. This interesting establish¬ 
ment would be well worthy of a visit from the antiquarian, 
containing as it does an uninterrupted series of records ex¬ 
tending over a period of 1200 years. It was long erroneously 
supposed that most of the oldest and most valuable archives 
of the French monarchy had been carried to England in the 
15th century, and lodged in the Tower; it has been, how¬ 
ever, ascertained that during that period of confusion they 
were preserved in the monasteries, and escaped altogether the 
pillage of the invaders. 

Behind the Hotel de Soubise, rue d’Orleans, is 

St. Francois d’Assise, second district church of the seventh 
arrondissemenl.—The exterior and interior are both plain. It 
was the chapel of a convent of Capuchins, founded in 1623. It 
consists of a nave, choir, and one aisle: the galleries opening 
into the church and aisle, from whence the fraternity formerly 
heard service, still remain. It is only remarkable for some 
good paintings which it contains : St. John the Baptist, by 
Franque, St. John writing the Apocalypse, by Trezel, Christ 


272 SEVENTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 

at the column, by Degeorge, and St. Louis visiting his sold ers 
sick of the plague, by Scheffer, all on the western side of the 
nave, are highly esteemed. On the eastern are St. Francois d’As- 
sise before Pope Innocent III., by Gaillot, and the same saint 
before the sultan of Egypt, by Lordon. A small Crucifixion, 
near the entrance, to the left, is also worthy of notice. At 
the entrance of the choir is, on the left hand, a very remark¬ 
able kneeling figure of the patron saint, in his monastic dress, 
of grey marble; the hands and head are of white marble. Op¬ 
posite to it is one of St. Denis. Behind the altar in the choir 
are several large paintings; the best of which are Christ ap¬ 
pearing to Sle. Catherine, St. Francis receiving the stigmata 
of the Crucifixion, his Vision of Christ, a Descent from the 
Cross, the Baptism of Christ, by Guerin, and the Communion 
of St. Theresa. In the aisle on the east of the nave are two 
beautiful little pictures by the side of the altar of the Virgin,, 
representing the Flight into Egypt, and the Presentation in 
the Temple. The chapel of St. Francis also possesses an ex¬ 
cellent picture of . the saint. In the windows of the Lady 
Chapel are the twelve Apostles in stained glass. A fine organ 
will be remarked over the entrance. 

At the corner of the Bue Vieille du Temple is the 

Imprimerie Royale, formerly the Palais Cardinal.— This ho¬ 
tel, erected in 1712, was the properly of the Cardinal de Rohan, 
so famous in the time of Louis XVI., and whose intriguing 
spirit brought so much unmerited odium on the unfortunate 
Marie Antoinette. In this hotel took place the scenes described 
in the Memoires of Mine. Campan. The front towards the 
court is plain; that towards the garden is decorated with co¬ 
lumns. It was one of the largest in the capital, and is now- 
used as the Royal Printing Establishment. The Imprimerie 
Royale, now one of the largest and best regulated in Europe, 
was first established by Francis I. in the Louvre, in the entre¬ 
sol of the long gallery; it was afterwards transferred to the 
Hotel de Toulouse, now the Banque de France, and finally, in 
1809, to the Palais Cardinal. The visitor is conducted through 
all the different branches of the type-foundry, the composi¬ 
tors’ rooms, the hand-press room, the steam-press room, the 
form-room, the paper-warehouse, and the book-binding de¬ 
partment. throughout the whole the utmost order and system 
are preserved, and the greatest attention is paid to all strangers 
by one of the superintendents of the establishment, these 
gentlemen taking a pleasure in explaining all the minutiae of 
the various processes. The total number of persons constantly 
employed here is about 750 men, women, and boys. There 
are in the hand-press rooms usually 120 presses at work, each 


IMPRIMERIE ROYALE. 273 

occupying two men, and about 200 compositors are employed; 
here the Government papers of all kinds, and for all offices 
throughout the French dominions, are printed. In the steam- 
press room is an engine which works three beautifully-con¬ 
structed machines, equivalent to 20 hand-presses. There is 
also a drying-machine, worked by steam, and an ingenious 
apparatus for cutting the edges of government papers, custom¬ 
house tables, etc. The oriental books, with coloured margins, 
and other splendid specimens of typography, unique in their 
kind, and which can scarcely be executed elsewhere, will be 
interesting to the visitor. During the time of Napoleon, when 
government papers were printed here for half Europe, there 
were 300 hand-presses constantly employed. During the Re¬ 
volution of 1830, the mob broke into this office, and among 
them printers from other establishments, who destroyed the 
steam-presses, thinking, thereby, to enforce a return to hand- 
labour. Since that time only the three steam-presses before 
mentioned have been employed. This establishment is perfect 
in its matrices and fontes of type, having complete sets for 
every written language, and there is a permanent corrector 
for Oriental works. When Pope Pius VII. visited the Printing- 
Office, the Lord’s Prayer was printed and presented to him in 
150 languages. The forms or types of government papers are 
kept here for a long time after they are used, and fully 20,000 
forms are thus preserved in a long room set apart for the pur¬ 
pose. There are also 8 machines for ruling paper for govern¬ 
ment uses. The hours of work in this establishment are 10 
every day; the best compositors gain from 5 fr. to 6 fr. per 
diem; and good pressmen about as much. After 30 years’ 
service they are entitled to a pension of 400 fr., and a certain 
small portion of their wages is deducted for a sick-fund. The 
book-binders earn about 3 fr. 50 c., and the women and girls 
from 1 to 2 fr. per diem. There is a cabinet containing speci¬ 
mens of typography executed here, which, even to a mere 
observer, is one of the most gratifying sights in Paris. The 
authors of works of real utility, the printing of which could 
not remunerate private enterprise, may obtain their being 
printed here at the expense of government. The receipts of 
this establishment are about 2,800,000f., the expenses 2,700,000f. 
For permission to inspect it written application must be made, 
a day or two beforehand, to M. Le Directeur de VImprimerie 
Roijale, who appoints an hour on Thursdays for the visitor, 
which must be punctually kept, in order that the superin¬ 
tendent may conduct all visitors at the same time, and thus be 
saved any unnecessary trouble. 

At the corner of the rue des Francs Bourgeois, so called 


274 SEVENTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 

from certain free tenements held in it in former days by bur¬ 
gesses not enrolled in Paris, will be seen one of those elegant 
turrets that still are to be found in some of the most ancient 
parts of Paris. The bold mouldings at the lower part, and the 
tracery of the upper, are remarkable. Near this turret the 
murder of the Duke of Orleans, only brother of Charles VI., on 
Nov. 20, 1407, was perpetrated, (1) an event which gave rise to 
the bloody feud so disastrous to France, and which led to its 
occupation by the English. 

The stranger will tind, at 7, rue de Paradis, or 18, rue des 
Blancs Manteaux, a large edifice, the central establishment of 
the Mont de Piete (see p. 105), and at No. 12 the church of 

Notre Dame des Blancs Manteaux, first district church of 
7lh arrondissement, formerly the chapel of a religious house 
where one of the mendicant orders, called the Blancs Man¬ 
teaux , from their dress, or the Serviteurs de la Vierge Marie, 
established themselves in 1258. In 1297, another mendicant 
order, the Guillemites, replaced them by order of the Pope; 
and, in 1018, these were united to a Benedictine order, and 
the monastery and chapel were rebuilt. A street now traverses 
the site of the monastery, some of the buildings of which may 
still be observed to the east, particularly the left wing of the 
house, 25, rue des Francs-Bourgeois, and the chapel remains, 

(1) The Duke had been supping with the Queen at the Hdtel Barbette, 
and was going to the Hdtel St. Paul, on a pretended summons from the 
King, brought by a person who was in the conspiracy of the Duke de 
Bourgogne. He was mounted on a mule, followed by two equerries on 
one horse, a page, and three footmen carrying flambeaux. On arriving 
opposite a house, called L’lmage Notre Dame, he was attacked by 
18 armed men, headed by Raoul d’Octonville, a Norman gentleman. 
The horse of the equerries ran away, and the Duke was immediately set 
upon by the band crying. “Amort!” “I am the Duke of Orleans!” 
he exclaimed. “ It is you whom we want,” replied the murderers, and 
at the same moment a battle-axe cut off his bridle-hand. Several blows 
of swords and clubs succeeding each other, he fell to the ground, and, 
though exhausted by loss of blood, defended himself on his knees, par¬ 
rying for some time the attacks with his arm. “ Qu’est ceci? d’ou vient 
eeci?” he exclaimed from lime to time. At length, a blow from a club 
dashed out his brains, and his assassins held a flambeau to his face to 
see if he were really dead. A man, whose face was covered with a 
scarlet hood, came out of the house, and with a club struck the dead 
body, saying, “Eteignez lout; allonsnous-en ; il est mort.” Tlmy then 
set fire to the house in which they had been concealed, and withdrew. 
The Duke of Burgundy a few days afterwards fled from Paris, having 
confessed to the Duke de Berri that the deed had been done by his 
orders, to revenge himself on the Duke of Orleans for having placed the 
Duchess of Burgundy’s picture among those of his mistresses. The 
Duke of Burgundy was afterwards murdered at the bridge of Montereau 
by the son of the Duke of Orleans. 


, HOTEL DE HOLLANDE. 275 

a mean building externally, but of an elegant style of Corin¬ 
thian architecture within. It consists of a nave, with aisles, 
and a circular choir; it has an arched roof, with lateral win¬ 
dows, and is lofty and well lighted. The organ is in a remar k¬ 
able position behind the high altar. Facing the western aisle, 
is a good picture of Jesus washing the feet of the Apostles, by 
Laid; along the aisle is the Miracle of the loaves and tishes, by 
Andran, (1683); Christ curing a possessed man, by Frosse; 
Magdalen before the Saviour. In the eastern aisle is an An¬ 
nunciation, by Dasl; an Assumption, by Dcjeanne (1740); a 
Holy Family, by Copinet; and the Archangel crushing the 
Demon. Next is the chapel of Ste. Genevieve, lately con¬ 
structed. A small and esteemed picture of a female Saint will 
also be remarked. Facing the aisle is a beautiful Adoration of 
the Shepherds, by Bralle ; and over the entrance is a large and 
very splendid picture of the Burial of St. Petronilla, of the 
school of Guercino. Little is known concerning this painting, 
one of the finest in any of the Parisian churches, farther than 
it was given to the church soon after the restoration of the 
edifice to Catholic worship, and that it came from Versailles. 

Opposite the rue des Blancs Manteaux is the 

Marche des Blancs Manteaux. —This small market, which is 
Hanked by the Ecole Primaire Municipale pour les Israelites, 
lately constructed, situated on the site of the convent des Filles 
Hospitalieres de St. Gervais, was opened in 1819. Two semi¬ 
circular fountains graced with two well executed bull’s heads 
in bronze adorn the walls of the second halle. 

At No. 51, Vieille rue du Temple, is 

The Hotel de Hollande (so called from being the Dutch Am¬ 
bassador’s in the reign of Louis XIV.), built by Cottard, a fine 
hotel, richly ornamented in the old style. The caryatides that 
support the pediment of the front are graceful; and on the 
compartments of the walls surrounding the court may still be 
seen four dials and some astronomical diagrams faintly traced, 
with some half-legible Latin inscriptions. In the first court, 
over the gateway, is a bas-relief, the Finding of Romulus and 
Remus; on the urn of the Tiber is the date 1660. The gates 
have fine old carvings in oak. This fine old hotel was once 
inhabited by Beaumarchais. 

The stranger will not regret following the rue des Francs 
Bourgeois, on quitting the Vieille rue du Temple; he will find 
it to contain some magnificent mansions of sufficient interest 
to repay his excursion. No. 15 is an hotel of the time of 
Henry IV.; No. 7, Hotel de Jeanne d’Albret, of the days of 
Louis XV.; and No. 12 may also be noticed as the residence of 
the Dukes de Roquelaure, a few traces of whose grandeur yet 


276 SEVENTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 

remain, in the quarters of lhe gendarmerie who now occupy 
it. At the corner of the rue Pavee stands 

The Hotel de Lamoignon, one of the most elegant of the re¬ 
sidences of the old nobility. It is of the same date as the centre 
of the Tuileries; its front is adorned with line Corinthian pi¬ 
lasters ; and in the pediments over the wings are shields with 
slags’ heads, the horns held by angels; heads of hounds, etc. 
A beautiful balcony in the northern wing and a curious square 
turret at the corner of the street, should be remarked. 

In the rue Pavee, at No. 3, is the Hotel de la Houze, and 
there also stood the Hotels de Gaucher, de Chdtillon, and d’Her- 
bouville, or de Savoisi. The modern part of La Force, formerly 
the hotel of the Due de La Force, is perceived in it about mid¬ 
way, at No. 22, remarkable for the forbidding appearance its 
ponderous vermiculated rustics impart to it. A large hemi¬ 
spherical niche in the centre, still bearing traces of three en¬ 
trances now walled up, is worthy of inspection. The windows 
have mostly wooden funnels giving light and air from above, 
to prevent communication by signs. Its entrance is in the ad¬ 
joining rue du Roi de Sicile, which leads to the Marche St. 
Jean, no longer however used as a market. Here stood the 
house of Pierre de Craon, which was razed to the ground in 
consequence of his attack on the Connetable de Clisson. An 
old fountain and guard-house still exist. 

In the rue des Billettes, No. 1G, leading from the rue de la 
Verrerie, which opens into this place, is 

The Lutheran Church ( Eglise des Carmes).— This church, 
built in 1745, after the designs of Frere Claude, a Dominican, 
formerly belonged to a body of Carmelite friars. In 1790 the 
convent w'as suppressed, and in 1808 the church was bought 
by the City of Paris, and given, about four years after, to the 
Protestants of the Augsburg Confession. The front is composed 
of Doric and Ionic pilasters surmounted by a pediment. The 
interior is Ionic; it is lofty, fitted up with pews, and has an 
organ. In the vestry are several good pictures, presented by 
the late Gen. Rapp, and other protestants. Service is per¬ 
formed on Sundays, at 12 in French, and at 2 in German. In 
the passage opposite is the Creche of the 7 th arrondissement. 

Passing by the rue des Deux Portes, the visitor will arrive 
in the rue de la Tixeranderie, where, at the corner of the rue 
du Coq, is a house and circular turret of the 16th century. It 
was at the time inhabited by the author Scarron and his wife, 
afterwards Madame de Maintenon. 


ABATTOIR DE POPINCOURT. 


m 


On entering this arrondissement l)y the rue du Faubourg du 
Temple, tiie visitor will cross the canal by a bridge with iron 
arches, constructed for foot passengers, after the Venetian 
fashion, to allow free passage to boats. It has twenty wooden 
steps on either side, and is flanked at each end by solid ma¬ 
sonry with elegant cast-iron gas-lamp-posts. It is situated be¬ 
tween two other bridges for carriages, turning on pivots. 

Passing from thence through the rue Folie Mericourt, he 
will enter the rue Popincourt, and pass by a large barrack, 
and a fountain ornamented with bas-reliefs, opposite which is 

St. Ambroise, 2d district church of 8lh arrondissement.— 
This church, built for a convent of nuns, called the Annon- 
ciades, in 1639, was enlarged in 1802, and annexed to the pa¬ 
rish ot Ste. Marguerite. Its front is composed of four Doric 
pilasters crowned with a moulded attic and pediment. The in¬ 
terior consists of a nave, choir, and side aisles; but is perfectly 
plain in its architecture, and of small dimensions. There is a 
large chapel of the Virgin, opening into the eastern aisle, con¬ 
taining a valuable Annunciation, and on the same side in the 
nave is Ste. Catherine de Seze, wearing a crown of thorns; in 
the western aisle a St. John the Baptist, and a plaster cast by 
Guichard; and at the entrance of the choir a Resurrection, by 
Peron, and an Adoration of the Magi, by Jouy. On the western 
wall is a remarkable Ecce Homo, and a Magdalen, of the school 
of Mignard. Over the altar is a picture of St. Ambroise protect¬ 
ing an Arian from his persecutors, by Wafllard,and on the left, 
Jesus bearing his Cross, by Lain; both passable pictures of the 
modern French school. A moderne fresco by Jollivet, repre¬ 
senting Christ inspiring the Apostles, occupies the front wall 
of the choir. 

Behind St. Ambroise, in the Avenue Parmentier, is the 

Abattoir de Popincourt, or de Menilmontant, the finest and 
largest in its accommodations of the five establishments of the 
kind in Paris. It was erected in 1810, and consists of 23 piles of 
building, on a sloping ground, and within a walled enclosure 
645 feet by 570. In front of the abattoir is a small planted pro¬ 
menade, and, at the entrance, are two pavilions, containing 
the bureaux of the administration. To the right and left of the 
central court, 438 feet in length by 291 in breadth, are four 
immense slaughter-houses, separated by a road crossing the 
enclosure; they are each 141 feet long by 96 broad, and in¬ 
clude respectively a flagged court, on each side of which are 
eight slaughter-houses for the use of the butchers, 60 in num¬ 
ber, by whom the keys are kept. Each slaughter-house is lit and 

24 


EIGHTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 


278 

ventilated from arcades in the front walls. Above are spacious 
attics for drying the skins and preparing the tallow; and to 
preserve coolness a considerable projection has been given to 
the roofs. Behind these slaughter-houses are two ranges of 
sheds, containing sheep-pens, and at the extremities are stables 
for about 400 oxen : each of these buildings contains a loft for 
forage. These masses of building form the sides of the court. 
At the end is a commodious watering-place, and pens for cattle, 
besides two detached buildings, each traversed by a broad cor¬ 
ridor, which communicates with four melting-houses, below 
which are cellars, containing coolers. Beyond these, parallel 
with the outer wall, are two buildings raised on cellars, in 
which the skins are kept, and near them, in front of the en¬ 
trance, is a double reservoir for water, 228 feet in length, built 
in solid masonry, and resting on arches which form stands for 
carts. There is also a triperie, or building for washing and boil¬ 
ing tripe and calves’ feet. Cattle and sheep, on entering Paris, 
are immediately driven to one of the abattoirs, and there kept 
at the cost of the butcher; the meat is taken to the shops dur¬ 
ing the night. At the abattoir de Popincourt the slaughtering is 
notin proportion with its extent; at that of Montmartre, which 
is smaller, much more business is done; this inequality results 
from recent changes in the trade. The slaughterings vary in 
amount here even more than in other abattoirs, but may be 
estimated at the weekly average of 660 oxen, 300 cows, GOO 
calves, and 3,000 sheep. The establishment is superintended by 
a resident inspector of police, and gives employment and lodg¬ 
ing, independently of the butchers and their servants, to 18 
employes with their families. The visitor will remark the clean¬ 
liness which prevails here, so difficult to be maintained in an 
establishment of the kind. Strangers are readily admitted on 
applicalion at the porter’s lodge. 

The rue St. Maur leads from this into the rue de laRoquelte, 
where, at No. 66, the visitor will observe a new fountain, with 
a flat gable surmounting a deep circular arch, with elegant 
sculptures, and giving access to a niche flanked with stone 
benches. Near the end of the street he will be struck with the 
aspect of the two large prisons, one for condemned criminals 
on the east, the other for juvenile offenders on the west. The 
latter is polygonal, having six strong towers at the principal 
angles, and has three stories. Both prisons are enclosed by high 
walls, rusticated at the angles, and the ensemble presents the 
frowning appearance which accords with their destination. (See 
p. 69.) In this street will also be remarked a spacious building 
just erected for primary instruction; it cost 200,000 fr. The Bar- 
riere d’Aulnay, at the upper end of this street, which is filled 











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CEMETERY 














































CEMETERY OF PERE LA CHAISE. 279 

with the shops of dealers in tombs, funereal garlands, etc., opens 
in front of the 

Cemetery of Pere la Chaise.— This tract of ground, on the 
slope of a hill extending from Belleville to Charonne, on the 
north-east of Paris, was celebrated in the 14th century for the 
beauty of its situation; under Louis XIV. Pere La Chaise resided 
here, and during 160 years it was the country-seat of the Jesuits; 
it is now the principal cemetery of the capital. In the earliest 
ages of the monarchy, this spot, called Champ VEve'que, belonged 
to the Bishop of Paris. In the 14th century, a wealthy grocer, 
named Regnault, erected upon the ground a magnificent house, 
which the people called la Folie Regnault. After the death of 
Regnault, this mansion was bought by a female devotee, and 
presented to the community of the Jesuits in the rue St. Antoine. 
It continued to bear its former name till the reign of Louis XIV., 
who authorised the Jesuits to call it Mont Louis. That monarch 
being much attached to Pere La Chaise, his confessor, appointed 
him superior of this establishment in 1765, and Mont Louis then 
became the focus of the Jesuitical power in France. The house 
was enlarged, and the garden extended and ornamented; but 
on the suppression of the order, Mont Louis was sold to pay 
the creditors of the community. It afterwards passed through 
several hands, and was purchased for 160,000 fr. by M. Frochot, 
prefect of the Seine, to be converted into a cemetery. It then 
contained 42 acres. M. Brongniart was appointed to adapt this 
spot to its new destination; and he preserved whatever could 
be rendered subservient to the embellishment of the new esta¬ 
blishment. Winding paths were formed, a wide road was opened 
to where the mansion of Pere la Chaise formerly stood, and 
with the shrubs and fruit-trees were mingled cypresses and 
willows. The cemetery of Pere la Chaise was consecrated in 
the beginning of 1804 ; and on 2lst May, of the same year, the 
first grave was made. Its present extent is nearly 100 acres, 
entirely walled in. The beautiful situation of this spot on the 
side of a hill, surrounded by valleys and slopes, and command¬ 
ing an extensive view over a picturesque and glowing land¬ 
scape, makes it, particularly in summer, a favourite resort 
of strangers as well as of Parisians. No other cemetery of Paris 
can vie with it in the number and costliness of its monuments, 
it being chosen by the most distinguished personages as the 
place of their interment. Some of them, of large dimensions 
and elegant architecture, represent temples, sepulchral chapels, 
mausoleums, pyramids, and obelisks; others present cippi, 
columns, altars, urns, etc., variously ornamented ; most of them 
enclosed with iron railings, within which are planted Ilowers 
and shrubs, and near are retired seats, to which kindred and 


280 EIGHTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 

friends repair to indulge in feelings of affection and regret. A 
subterranean canal, which conveyed water to the Maison de 
Mont Louis, still exists, and furnishes a sufficient supply to 
keep the plants and herbage in constant verdure. The ceme¬ 
tery of Pere La Cliaise is appropriated to the interment of the 
inhabitants of the 5th, Gib, 7th, 8th, and 9lh arrondissements 
only, except in the case of the purchase of ground in perpe¬ 
tuity, in which case it is open to all persons. The gateway, 
immediately opposite the harrier, is placed in a semi-circular 
recess, and is adorned with funereal ornaments, and scriptural 
quotations in Latin. Within is the lodge of the guardian. The 
divisions on the right and left of the avenue opposite the en¬ 
trance present nothing worth notice. Taking the first avenue 
to the right, the visitor will soon arrive at the Bureau de Ben- 
seignements. Further on, facing the lower broad avenue, is the 
Bureau de Surveillance et des Inscriptions. In the first path 
striking out of the avenue to the right, stands the most pictu¬ 
resque and interesting monument in the cemetery, the tomb 
ol Abelard and Heloisa, who died in the middle of the 12th 
century. It consists of a rectangular chapel of the Saxon style 
of the 13th century, formed by M. Lenoir out of the ruins of 
the celebrated abbey of the Paraclete, founded by Abelard, and 
of which Heloisa was the first abbess. It is 14 feet in length by 
11 in breadth; and its height is 24. An open-worked crocketed 
pinnacle 6 feet in elevation rises out of the cruciform roof, and 
four smaller ones, exquisitely sculptured, stand between the 
gables. Fourteen columns, six feet in height, with rich foli- 
aged capitals, support trifoliate arches with open spandrilssur¬ 
mounted by cornices wrought in flowers. The gables of the four 
fronts are pierced with trifoliate windows, and decorated with 
sculptured figures, roses, and medallions of Abelard and Heloisa. 
In this chapel is the tomb built for Abelard, by Peter the Vene¬ 
rable, at the priory of St. Marcel. He is represented, in a recum- 
hent posture, the head slightly inclined and the hands joined. 
Hy Ins side is the statue of Heloisa. The ancient bas-reliefs round 
this sarcophagus represent the fathers of the church. At the foot 
on one side of the tomb are inscriptions; and at the angles are 
lour others relating to the origin of the monument, its removal 
and its erection in the Musee des Monuments Francais, from 
whence if was transported to the cemetery of Pere La Chaise. 

In the avenue at one extremity of which is the chapel are 
several handsome monuments, which deserve attention. In 
the middle of the Rond Point stands a beautiful monument 
erected by public subscription to the memory of Casimir Pe- 
rier Prime Minister in 1832, consisting of an excellent statue 
of Hie statesman placed on a lofty and richly decorated pedestal 



CEMETERY OF PERE LA CHAISE. 281 

and basement. A small pat h leads off, a little south of the prin¬ 
cipal road to the right, to a part of the cemetery in which among 
others is the tomb of the brave hut ill-fated Labedoy&re, 

-Whose crime 

Was loyalty and faith sublime. 

The principal road winding round the foot of the hill should 
next be followed by the visitor. Along its whole extent it 
presents a succession of the most beautiful tombs. A rising 
ground at the eastern end of the cemetery commands a delight¬ 
ful view over Vincennes, and contains several very elegant mo¬ 
numents on a small scale. The visitor should now ascend the 
hill west of the avenue, and he will then find himself among 
many of the great names of France. The tomb that will first 
meet his eye, south of the principal road, is the elegant se¬ 
pulchral column of Viscount de Martignac, celebrated for his 
noble and touching defence of his ancient political enemy 
Prince Polignac, at the bar of the Chamber of Peers, after the 
Revolution of 1830; after it he will find the monuments of the 
celebrated Volney; the Duke Deeres, a monument of large di¬ 
mensions, on which two bas-reliefs represent naval actions 
with the English; Hue, the faithful attendant of Louis XVI.; the 
Abbe Sicard, director of the Deaf and Dumb School; Beaumar¬ 
chais, the dramatist; Marshal Davoust, Prince d’Eckmuhl, a 
pyramid of granite; Marshal Lefebre, a magnificent sarcophagus 
of white marble—two figures of Victory crown the bust of 
the Marshal in relief, and the inscription Soldat, mare'chal, due 
de Dantzick, pair de France: Fleurus, Avant-Garde, Passage 
du Rhin, Altenkirken, Dantzig, Montmirail; Marshal Massena, 
Prince d’Essling, a pyramid of while marble, 21 feet in height, 
a portrait of the Marshal in bas-relief, and the inscription 
Rivoli, Zurich, Genes, Essling; Marshal Suchet, Duke d’Albu- 
fera, in beautiful white marble, richly ornamented with bas- 
reliefs of fine execution by David; the tomb of General Gobert, 
in course of execution, by David; the Russian Countess Demi- 
dofT, a most beautiful temple of white marble, the entablature 
supported by 10 columns, under which is a sarcophagus sur¬ 
mounted by a cushion bearing the arms and coronet of the 
deceased; Manuel, the celebrated orator of the Chamber of 
Deputies; General Foy, a superb monument erected by national 
subscription, consisting of a sepulchre surmounted by a temple, 
in which is seen a marble statue, by David, of the general in 
the act of addressing the Chamber of Deputies; Benjamin 
Constant, a small plain tomb; and Marshal Ney. To the west of 
these tombs, are those of the Marchioness de Beauharnais, sister- 
in-law of the Empress Josephine; Parmentier, to whom France 



2^2 EIGHTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 

in a great measure indebted tortile general cultivation of the 
potatoj Moliere, a sarcophagus of stone, supported by four 
columns and surmounted by a vase; La Fontaine, a cenotaph, 
crowned by a fox in black marble, and ornamented with two 
nas-reliefs in bronze, one representing the fable of the wolf and 
the stork, and the other the wolf and the lamb; Madame de 
Lenhs, transported here by Louis Philippe from Mont Parnasse- 
' f 110 . 1 : Duc ^’Ahr*antes; Laplace, the great astronomer, a tomb 
ot while marble, from which rises an obelisk surmounted by an 
urn, ornamented with a star encircled by palm-branches and 
mscnptmns alluding to bis works; the Marquis de Clermont 
Callerande, who, on the memorable 10th of August, placed 
lumsdf between Louis XVI. and the mob, to defend his sove¬ 
reign. I he visitor is now recommended to ascend the bill and 
o examine that part of the cemetery which lies beyond the 
straight road formed along the brow of the bill. Here be will 
find numerous English tombs, and many that are exceedingly 

1 1 11 ’ am ongst which a handsome mausoleum erected to 
the memory of the daughter of the Duchess de Duras; a very 
lof y pyranud, erected to the memory of M. Beaujour, and one 
ol the most conspicuous objects in the cemetery; the tombs of 
r * Bou,ard > who undertook a journey to the quarries of 
Cairara, to buy the marble for the construction of his tomb- 
f„,? ez ®’ an advocate, the intrepid defender of Louis XVI.; and’ 

consis’tii n U f Pei 1 monun ; ent of A S uad <b the great financier; 
consisting of a basement surmounted by a richly-sculolure. 

sarcophagus in while marble, executed by Ramusfal the sides 
ZVT T stat / ,es » representing Benevolence and the Fine 
f Hip W ° b f autlful an S els support his escutcheon. The chapel 
of the cemetery is a plain Doric building, about 56 feet bvM 
m length and breadth, and 56 feel in height. In front 0 Ht is 
an open platform, from whence the eye ranges over Paris In 
1814, while the forces of the allied powei^^pp^iw 

Ibre LaCbakp 6 Were estaI)lished in the cemetery of 

cennp^ t aise ’ whldl commands the plain extending to Vin¬ 
cennes. The walls were pierced with loop-holes The mmils nf 
the school of Abort occupied it on the 30th of March, and suc- 
r su y resisted two attacks of Russian troops detached bv 

awas -s asisrari* 

ss;I" |[;; S 

Kussians bivouacked in he° Smeterv andf”'' 1 "' 8 ' llle 
the fees for fuel. 

sccom ' ume - — 


BARRIERE DU TRONE. ■ 283 

Pere La Chaise is one of the most beautiful as well as inte¬ 
resting sights of Paris. To inspect it thoroughly would require 
many days. It may perhaps be justly contended that the rivalry 
of art (i) which abounds here weakens the effect on the ima¬ 
gination which the solemn character of the place ought to in- 
spire; (v) yet the skill and cost bestowed upon these monuments, 
memorials of respect and affection from the living to the dead,' 
evidently spring from feelings which it is impossible not to 
admire. In the annexed plan, which will he found most useful, 
the visitor will find marked in their proper places all those 
monuments which deserve attention, either on account of the 
interest attached to the names, or for their architectural beauty 
and ornaments. 

On leaving the cemetery, the visitor is advised to follow the 
outer boulevard, as far as the 

Barriere du Trone.— Here he will And two handsome and 
lofty fluted Doric columns, erected in 1788, but only recently 
finished, near the bases ol which are two colossal figures in 
bas-relief. On the lower part of each shaft is a colossal figure 
in bas-relief; one representing Peace, the other Victory, by 
Pesboeufs and Simart. The bases rest on cruciform basements, 
with four pedimented fronts, internally fitted up as bureaux; 
winding staircases lead internally to galleries crowning the ca¬ 
pitals, on each which is an acroterium supporting a colossal 
bronze statue; one represents St. Louis, by Etex, the other Phi¬ 
lippe le Bel, by Dumont. A throne was erected here, on which 
Louis XIV. received the homage of the City, on his triumphal 
entry, on the 26th August, 1660, whence it derives its name. 
The road from hence leading to Vincennes is wide, with a fine 
avenue of trees on each side. The large circular space imme¬ 
diately within the barrier was used by the Jacobins of 1794 as 
a supplementary place of execution; in the August of that year, 
they immolated 69 of their victims here in one day. Public 
festivals for this quarter of Paris are now held here ; and displays 
of fire-works, shows, games, etc., whenever given by Govern¬ 
ment, take place here as well as in the Champs Elysees. At 
other times it looks deserted enough; but the municipality 

(1) It has been calculated that during 40 years that this ground has 
been devoted to its present purpose, not less than too millions of francs, 
or 4 millions sterling, have been expended in the erection of the monu¬ 
ments ; and it must be a subject of regret to think that, from their slight 
construction, the greater part of them will probably not exist at the end 
of the century. Ihe number of tombs is upwards of 1 5,000. 

(2) For the convenience of the stranger in Paris, it may be mentioned 
that an omnibus leaves the Place du Carrousel for the cemetery, and 
vice versd, every ten minutes, from 8 in the morning till dusk. 


284 EIGHTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 

intend to ornament it in the style of the Place de la Concorde, 
and 139,000 fr. have lately been voted for this purpose. 

The rue du Faubourg St. Antoine, which leads westward, and 
is a wide though not well-built street, is, it is said, to be 
planted like the boulevards. Near the Barriere the stranger 
will perceive the Marche aux Fourrages. 

Striking into the rue de Picpus, he will find at No. 8 the 
hospital called Matson d’Enghien. (See p. 100.) 

Lower down, at No. 15, was once a convent of the order of 
St. Augustin, now occupied by the Dames du Sacre Cceur. In 
the court is a Doric Chapel, with an Ionic portal. Within the 
walls of this establishment is a small private cemetery, called 
Picpus, containing the remains of several noble families, de 
Noailles, de Grammont, de Montaigu, Rosambo, Lamoignon, etc.; 
and here too, beneath a simple tomb, lies one of the purest 
public characters of modern times, Lafayette. In an adjoining 
spot repose several victims of the reign of terror. The visitor, 
who may be desirous to see this interesting, though small, 
cemetery, will readily obtain admission by applying at the 
porter’s lodge. 

The stranger will arrive, by the rue de Picpus, at the barrier 
of the same name, and find himself in the village of la Grande 
Pinte, and, continuing his walk towards the Seine, he will find 
the important village of Bercy. The warehouses for wine ex¬ 
tend half a mile along the river. Wine can be left here in 
bond; and the quai may be seen at times quite covered with 
casks. At Bercy passes over the Seine 

The Pont de Bercy, or de la Gare, a chain bridge, with a 
central and two subordinate suspensions. It is supported on 
two piles of masonry erected in the stream. It cost 750,000 fr., 
and its average annual produce is 70,000 fr. 

Immediately within the Barriere de la Rapee stands the great 

Depot des Fourrages, for the garrison of Paris.— A handsome 
building, 300 feet long, and 4 stories high, containing the oats 
and other grain for the cavalry; and by its side sheds, 500 feet 
long, and 25 feet high, full of straw, hay, etc. On the river is 
moored a floating octroi-office. 

The rues de Rambouillel and Petite Bambouillet lead into 
the rue de Reuilly; at the western end of which is the large 
pile of buildings, erected by Golbert, for the royal manufactory 
of looking-glasses (removed to 313, rue St. Denis), but now 
converted into a barrack. Near this is the 

Hopital St. Antoine, 20G, rue du Faubourg St. Antoine.— 
The abbey of St. Antoine having been suppressed, this hospital 
was established in the buildings, in 1795. The structure is mo¬ 
dern, it having been rebuilt in 1770, after the designs of Lenoir 


STE. MARGUERITE. 


285 

le Romain. A new ward was constructed in 1799, and lately a 
large gallery lias been transformed into a saloon for surgical 
operations. The patients here are of the same class as those of 
the Hotel Dieu; and they are attended by the Soeurs de Ste. Mar- 
the. The number of beds is 320. The average number of pa¬ 
tients is 4,800, and the mortality 1 in 8,37. Physicians, Drs. 
Bazin, Kapeler, andGrisolle; surgeons, Messrs. Berard aine and 
Nelaton. The days for visiting the patients are Sundays and 
Thursdays from 1 to 3; daily, for grave cases, from 2 to 3; 
persons living out of Paris are admitted from 10 to 3; stran¬ 
gers are admitted every day, on application at the bureau. 

Nearly opposite is the rue St. Bernard, where we find 

Ste. Marguerite, parish church of the 8lh arrondissement.— 
It was originally a chapel, erected in 1625, but became paro¬ 
chial in 1712; the nave and aisles are of the first date, the 
choir and transepts of the latter. Doric pilasters, supporting a 
pediment, constitute its front. It is cruciform, with aisles; the 
transepts are only chapels, that to the south, of the Virgin, 
that to the north, of St. Vincent de Paule. In an architectural 
point of view, this church is of small interest, but is rich in 
pictures. In the south aisle of the nave is a Massacre of the 
Innocents, of the school of Domenichino; a very fine produc¬ 
tion, remarkable for the number of figures which it contains, 
and for the beauty of some of the female countenances. Near 
this is a Descent from the Cross. The south transept contains 
a Holy Family, of exquisite execution. It is either oflheFrench 
or Flemish school. A very beautiful Assumption and a Virgin 
Mary crushing the serpent are next to it. To the west of the 
altar of the Virgin is a fine Descent from the Cross, by Le- 
sueur ; on the east, the infant Jesus in the Manger, of the same 
school. On the east side of this transept is a Salutation of Mary 
and Elizabeth, painted by Suvee in 1781, an excellent picture; 
and on each side of it are two large paintings by Galloche and 
Restaut, of St. Vincent de Paule, forming part of a curious and 
valuable series of pictures relating to that saint, possessed by 
this church. Over the sacristy door, in the south aisle of the 
choir, is a painting, about 8 feet by 7, on wood, representing 
a Crucifixion, of great beauty and value. Behind the high 
altar is a fine alto-rilievo of the Descent from the Cross, by 
Girardon, in white marble. Next is the spacious chapel des 
Ames du Purgatoire, built in 1765, in the northern aisle, painted 
in fresco in the Ionic style, with a lofty circular vault. Behind 
the altar is a large painting on canvas representing the Delivery 
of Souls from Purgatory, and near the entrance a large table 
of black marble, supported by four angels, of good execution 
in white marble. In the north transept are several line pic- 


EIGHTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 


286 

tures: St. Vincent de Paule conversing with St. Francis de 
Sales, by Restaut; St. Vincent de Paule preaching, by Baptiste, 
and the apotheosis of the same saint; Ste. Magdalen’s Vision of 
the Cross, by Wafflard; a St. Ambrose; and a Christ bearing 
the Cross. At the entrance of the nave are two plaster groups, 
one of Ste. Elisabeth giving alms, the other of the death of Ste.’ 
Magdalen. Above these are two paintings; one of St. Louis in 
Egypt relieving the plague-stricken crusaders, the other St. 
Vincent de Paule with Anne of Austria. In the aisles will be 
remarked the subjects of the Via Crucis, painted by Trezel. The 
pulpit has good bas-reliefs in oak. The rector of this church 
was the first Catholic priest who broke the vow of celibacy at 
the Revolution. It is said that the unfortunate Dauphin, son 
of Louis XV L, who, after the death of his parents, was en¬ 
trusted to the care of a cobbler, named Simon, whose ill 
treatment he did not long survive, was buried in the cemetery 
of this church. 

Returning hence into the rue du Faubourg St. Antoine, the 
stranger will pass by the shabby and meanly-surrounded ’ 

Marche Beauveau, erected in 1779, recently, however, adorn¬ 
ed with a simple but well-designed Corps de Garde. A new 
halle has also been constructed here. The neighbourhood is a 
kind of Rag-fair. 

At No. 130 is the ticole Gratuite de Dessin. (See p. 82.) 

At No. 124, is a building which was formerly appropriated 
to the reception and education of orphan and foundling chil¬ 
dren, connected with the establishment of the Enfanls Trouves. 
It was founded in 1660 by the bounty of M. Aligre and his 
lady. It is ultimately destined to be an hospice for 400 old 
men, who will be maintained for life on paying the annual 
sum of 400 francs each. At present it is called Hotel Dieu An¬ 
nexe; its principal entrance is at 93, rue Charenton, and it con¬ 
tains 300 beds; the number of patients average 6000, the mor¬ 
tality l in 15,55. Physicians Messrs. Bou, Valex, Boulet. The 
patients are attended by the Dames de St. Augustin. 

On the northern side of the rue du Faubourg St. Antoine is 
the Fontaine Ste. Catherine, with Doric pilasters surmounted 
by a pediment. 

Fiom hence, the rue Traversiere, where the new prison 
La Nouvelle Force, is erected, (for which see p. 58,) will lead 
to the rue Charenton, where, at No. 89, has just been erected 
an elegant fountain bearing the date 1846, and consisting of a 
circular arch, flanked with Doric compartmented pilasters and 
opening to a retiring well-sculptured niche. Slone seats are 
placed under the arch. 

Further down, at No. 38, is the 




PLACE DE LA BASTILLE. 287 

Hopital Royal des Quinze-Vingts, 38, rue de Charenton.— 
This hospital for the blind was founded by St. Louis in 12G0, 
at the corner of the rue St. Nicaise, in the rue St. Honore, and 
was removed to the Hotel des Mousquetaires Noirs, in 17 79, 
by Cardinal de Rohan. At the Revolution part of the property 
of this institution was confiscated, but was restored in 1814. 
The number of families living here is 300; the blind are re¬ 
ceived with their families, and encouraged to marry, if single. 
In a few instances both husband and wife are blind. None are 
admitted but those both blind and indigent, and such are re¬ 
ceived here from any part of the kingdom. Each blind person, 
if unmarried, receives 20 sous a-day, if married 2G sous, for 
food and clothing, with l'/ 4 lb. of bread; they are lodged gra¬ 
tuitously. The children are sent to a primary school; and an 
asylum is instituted for them in the hospital, where boys and 
girls remain till 14, and receive 3 sous a-day. Their apprentice 
fees are paid by the establishment. Those children that are 
blind are sent to the Institution Roijale des Jeunes Aveugles 
(see 10th Arrondissemenl). Resides the inmates of this hospital, 
there are 800 out-door pensioners attached to it, divided into 
three classes, who receive, 1st class, 100 fr.; 2nd class, 160 fr.; 
and 3rd class, 200 fr. per annum. Physicians, Lacroze and An~ 
drieux. Strangers are admitted to the hospital daily from 10 
to 3. Adjoining it, in the second court of No. 3G, is 

St. Antoine, first chapel of ease to Ste. Marguerite.—This 
church forms a part of the Hopital Royal des Quinze-Vingls, 
but is uninteresting. It was built in 1701, and annexed to the 
parish of Ste. Marguerite in 1802. The stranger will remark 
two pictures; St. Louis receiving the Sacrament, by Gassies, 
the Entombment of Christ, by Jollivet, and a good altar-piece 
of St. Anthony performing the ceremony of marriage. 

The rue du Faubourg St. Antoine ends at the 

Place de la Rastille. —The Bastille was attacked and cap¬ 
tured by the people on the I4lh of July, 1789. In May and June 
of the following year it was demolished, in pursuance of a de¬ 
cree of the National Assembly, and part of the materials were 
employed in the construction of the Pont Louis XVI. Its site 
now forms the Place de la Rastille, and the moat is converted 
into a basin for boats passing through the new canal. In the 
centre of the place, the construction of a fountain was begun, 
by order of Napoleon, but has been since abandoned. According 
to the design presented by Denon, an arch over the Canal St. 
Martin was to bear a bronze elephant more than 72 feet high, 
including the tower supported by the animal. The water was 
to issue from the trunk of this colossal figure, each of whose 
legs was intended to measure six feet in diameter, and in one 


288 EIGHTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 

of them was to be a staircase leading to the tower. Under the 
Restoration it was intended to erect a colossal figure of the 
City of Paris on the base already constructed for the elephant; 
but after the events of July 1830, this plan also was changed, 
and, on the 28th July of the year following, the works of the 
present monument were commenced in the presence of king 
Louis Philippe. The lower part, which was erected by Napo¬ 
leon, consists of an immense arch thrown over the canal, round 
which is placed a vast circular casing of masonry, on which 
stood the basins intended for the fountain, the lower of red 
Flemish marble, the upper of white, with lion’s heads and 
laurel wreaths surrounding its cornice at regular intervals. 
Within this pile of masonry was the apparatus of pipes, etc., 
lor the fountain, with staircases descending to the canal. It 
now serves as a platform on which has been raised the 

Column of July, its pedestal standing immediately on a base¬ 
ment of white marble, supported by blocks of granite. On the 
western side of the pedestal is figured, in bold relief, a lion 
passant, and underneath the following inscription : 

A la gloire des Citoyens Fran^ais, qui s’armerent et combatlirent 
pour la defense des liberty publiques dans les memorables journees 
des 27, 28, et 29 Juillet 1830 . 

On the opposite side is the date of the laws decreeing the mo¬ 
nument, and the other two sides bear the dates of the 27th, 
28th, and 29th July. At the angles of the pedestal is the 
Gallic cock bearing an oaken wreath in its claws. The shaft of 
the pillar is partly fluted, and partly encircled with bands 
bearing lions’ heads, whose open mouths admit light and air 
to the staircase within. The spaces into which these bands 
divide the column are filled with the names of 604 patriots 
killed during the "three Days of 1830. The Corinthian capital, 
over which is a railed gallery, is said to be the largest piece 
of bronze ever cast, being 1G‘A feel wide; it is ornamented 
with lions’ heads, children bearing garlands, etc. Surmount¬ 
ing the capital is a gilt globe, and on it stands a colossal 
figure, gilt also, representing the “Genius of Liberty;” in his 
right hand is a torch, in his left a broken chain; lie is on 
tiptoe, with wings expanded, as if in the act of taking flight, 
and might not inaptly be mistaken for the “ Spirit of Pro- 
pagandism.” The height of the column, which is of the Com¬ 
posite order, is about 163 feet, the diameter 12 feet; weight 
ol metal employed 163,283 lb. avoirdupois; it cost about 
i ,200,000 fr. Unlike the column in the Place Vendome, the 
metallic cylinders of which it is composed are not supported 
by masonry within; the staircase is therefore, as it were, sus- 


PLACE ROYALE. 289 

pended, and the consequence is that it vibrates perceptibly to 
every blast of wind. The original designer, M. Alavoine (who 
had been previously entrusted with the construction of the 
Fountain intended to be placed here), dying in 1834, the su¬ 
perintendence devolved on his young assistant, M. Due. The 
former had proposed a plain Doric pillar. It was inaugurated 
with great ceremony on the 28th July, 1840, when the remains 
of the victims of July were deposited in the vaults un¬ 
derneath. In the marble pedestal is a circular corridor, paved 
with white marble, relieved with stars and crosses of black 
marble, and lighted by windows of stained glass. Descending 
a few steps, are the funereal vaults, secured by four cast-iron 
doors, ornamented which rich tracery. Each vault contains a 
vast sarcophagus 14 yards in length, 1 in width, and 1 deep. 
Around the base of the pedestal is an enclosure flagged with 
marble, and protected by a massive iron railing. The view from 
the top of the column is very fine. A small gratuity to the 
keepers is expected, but not exacted. 

Near the column will be seen a rather neat small Doric build¬ 
ing surrounded with rails, which serves as a corps de garde . 
A number of similar ones have just been built in different parts 
of Paris, with a view, in case of emeutes , to afford room for a 
larger number of troops than the late corps de garde could 
contain. 

The stranger will remark near this spot the iron arched 
bridge for foot passengers thrown over the Canal St. Martin, to 
avoid interruption of circulation during the opening of the 
locks. 

At t the entrance of the rue St. Antoine stood a triumphal 
arch, which was demolished during the Revolution; and on 
the eastern side of the Boulevard Beaumarchais was once the 
residence of that celebrated dramatist, demolished in 1823, to 
unite the basin of the Arsenal with that of la Villette. A new 
basin is now in progress on the adjoining Boulevard Contre- 
scarpe. 

On the southern side of this boulevard is the small theatre 
Beaumarchais. (See Theatres.) 

By the rue du Pas de la Mule, the stranger will pass into the 
Place Royale, standing on the site of the famous Palais des 
Tournelles, so called from the vast assemblage of turrets which 
its buildings presented. This palace, with its gardens, occupied 
a great extent of ground; and many of the neighbouring streets 
bear names which mark the site of some of its principal parts. 

It was in this palace that the masquerade took place, which so 
nearly proved fatal to Charles YI.; and it was in the great 
court that the tournament was held, in which Henry II., tilting 

25 


EiGIITII ARROiXDISSEMENT. 


290 

willi the Count de Montgommeri, received a wound in the eye, 
of which he died. (See Louvre.) This palace was destroyed, in 
consequence of this event, by Catherine de Medicis, in 15G3, 
and the present “place” begun in 1604, under Henry IV. The 
houses are all of red brick, coped with stone, having high 
roots; the lower story is Doric; a wide but low arcade runs 
under the first story round the “ place.” In the middle is the 
large square, planted with trees and surrounded by iron rail¬ 
ings, where Cardinal de Richelieu, in 1G39, caused an equestrian 
statue of Louis Xlll. to be erected. This was destroyed in 1792, 
but has since been restored in white marble by Dupaty and 
Cortot, in 1829. The attitude of the king is easy. At the corners 
of the enclosure are plain but tasteful fountains. This “ place” 
was formerly the centre of the court-end of the town; it is now 
principally inhabited by persons of limited income, who like 
the stateliness of large and quiet apartments, without the ex¬ 
pense of the more fashionable quarters. Its general aspect is 
heavy and sombre. (1) 

In the rue St. Louis is the 

Fontaine St. Louis, w hich is crowned by a small square cu¬ 
pola fronted by a pediment, and ornamented by a niche con¬ 
taining a vase; on each side are tritons sealed on dolphins. 

At No. 40 is a convent of Franciscan nuns. 

At the corner of the rue St. Claude is 

St. Denis ihj St. Sacrement, 3d district church of 8th arron- 
dissement.—On the site of this church formerly stood the cha¬ 
pel of a convent of nuns, demolished in 1828. The present edifice 
has a handsome projecting portico, of four Ionic columns, sup¬ 
porting a pediment, lately adorned by M. Feucheres with an 
alto-rilievo representing Faith, Hope, and Charity. Two columns 
more adorn the recess with the principal entrance, and at the 
east end is a small campanile. The interior is divided into a nave 
and aisles : the semicircular vault of the former, sculptured in 
elegant compartments, is supported by a range of eight Ionic 
columns on either side, the ceilings of the aisles are flat. Both 
are decorated with rectangular compartments, containing 

(l) In the year VIII. of the Republic, the Consulate issued a decree, 
by which the department which should be the first to relieve the penury 
of the Treasury by paying its contributions should be honoured by 
having its name affixed to one of the public squares of 1 he capital. The 
department ol the Vosges having been foremost in obeying the sum¬ 
mons, the Place Royale was in consequence called Place des Vosges. 
At the restoration in 1 8 1 4 it resumed its former name. Every year the 
Conseil-Genera! des Vosges now petitions the Government to have its 
own name restored. 




HOTEL HE CARNAVALET. 291 

sculptured ornaments. Over the vestibule, at the entrance, is 
an organ-loft; the high altar stands in a semicircular choir at 
the east end of the nave, crowned by a semi-cupola with 
skylight, while, at the extremities of each aisle are chapels; 
the cupola of the choir has a valuable fresco by Abel de Pujol, 
representing the Trinity; the broad frieze below is adorned 
with a monochrome fresco by the same, representing St. Denis 
preaching Christianity to the pagan inhabitants of Gaul. In the 
adjoining Lady chapel, at the extremity of the southern aisle, 
are two good Assumptions, a Virgin and Child with the infant 
Si. John the Baptist, and a large fresco by Court, representing 
the \irgin consoling the afflicted. In the chapel opposite is the 
Descent from the Cross, in fresco, by Delacroix. The chapels 
of the northern aisle have each a fresco; that next to the choir, 
Christ and the two disciples Andrew and Peter at table, by 
Picot; the one opposite, Christ calling children around him, 
by Decaisne. Elegant lamps are suspended between the co¬ 
lumns all along the church. This church is considered one of 
the architectural gems of the capital, and is worthy of a more 
central site. 

Returning along the rue St. Louis, the visitor may take the 
rue du Parc Royal, leading to the rue Culture Ste. Catherine, 
where, at No. 23, he will find the 

Hotel de Carnavalet, the residence of Madame de Sevigne, 
and the Countess de Grignan, her daughter, one of the most 
beauliful mansions of the 16th century. Some of the sculpture 
which adorns it is of remarkable beauty, and was executed by 
Jean Goujon; it was erected in 1544 by Jean Bullant, architect- 
The front is decorated with coupled Ionic pilasters. The sculp¬ 
tured gateway is by Jean Goujon, as well as the winged figure 
on the key-stone, the two lions trampling on armour, several 
medallion trophies, etc. In the court, the centre group is by 
the same hand, and consists of Fame attended by two winged 
figures. The other sculptures are by inferior artists, but are 
all above mediocrity. Beautiful in its exterior, this hotel was 
once distinguished above all others in Paris, as the favourite 
resort of wit, learning, and refinement. Little remains to at¬ 
test the presence of one of the first female writers of her 
country. The drawing-rooms, however, of Madame de Sevigne 
and her daughter are still shown, with the cabinet immortalised 
by the Letters there composed; also a marble dining-table 
which stood under sycamore trees in the garden, two of which 
still exist. The present possessor of the house, M. Verdol, who 
has converted it into a boarding-school, takes a pleasure in 
showing it to visitors; he possesses an original portrait of 


292 NINTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 

Mine, de Sevigne, and has also written a short history of the 
hotel, which may be had on application to the porter. 

At the corner of this street the Connetable de Clisson was 
way-laid and nearly murdered, in 1391, by Pierre de Craon, 
chamberlain of the Duke of Orleans, who was assassinated by 
the Duke of Burgundy. This man had been dismissed from his 
post, as he supposed, by the influence of the Connetable, and 
accordingly, lying in wait for him with 20 bravos, he attacked 
him on the night of June 13. The Connetable was badly 
wounded, but not mortally, and Craon, who escaped to Eng¬ 
land, was subsequently pardoned in 1395. 

At the corner of the rue Culture Ste. Catherine and the rue 
St. Antoine is a Doric guard-house, and the * 

Fontaine de Bjrague, erected in 1579, by Chancellor de Bi- 
rague, and rebuilt in 1807. It is a pentagonal tower, surmount¬ 
ed by a dome and lantern; and each side contains a niche, 
between Doric pilasters supporting a pediment, above which 
lises an attic adorned with a naiad or river god. It bears the 
following inscription 

Praetor et iEdiles Fontem hunc posuere, beati 
Sceptrum si Lodoix, dum fluetunda, regat. 


lllfl AEMMMMMIlOTo 

This division of Paris includes only part of what is called the 
lie de la Cite, the lie St. Louis, and a long strip of land on the 

northern bank of the river, as will be perceived on reference 
to the map. 

At the west end of the lie de la Cite is the 

Pont-Neuf, leading from the Quais de l’Ecole and de la Me- 
gisserie to the Quais Conti and des Augustins, and from these 
to the Quais de l’Horloge and des Orfevres.—This bridge was 
begun by Ducerceau, under Henry III., who laid the first stone 
on 31st May 1578 The works were discontinued on account 
ot the troubles of the Ligue, and not recommenced till after 
the accession of Henry IV., who continued it at his own ex¬ 
pense, under the direction of Marchand. It was finished in 1604 
Jt consisls of two unequal parts; that from the He de la Citi 
to the northern bank of the Seine containing seven circular 
arches, and that to the southern hank only five. Its total length 
is 1020 feet, and its breadth 78. The arches are bold; above 
them is a large projecting cornice supported by thickly-set con 
soles representing grotesque heads; on the piers are semicir- 
cular recesses, used as shops. On the square area, at the junc¬ 
tion of the two parts of the bridge, a bronze statue of Henry IV, 





PLACE DAUPHINE. 


293 

was erected by his widows Marie de Medicis. Her father, Cosmo 
de Medicis, had sent her a bronze horse for this purpose, and 
a figure of the king to suit it was cast in France. This statue 
was destroyed in 1792; and on its site Napoleon had made pre¬ 
parations for the erection of a magnificent granite obelisk of 
the extraordinary height of 200 feet, when the events of 1814 
put an end to the project. In 1818, the present statue, cast by 
order of Louis XV11I., and paid for by public subscription, was 
inaugurated with much ceremony and great enthusiasm. The 
model was by Lemot, and the statue itself, formed out of several 
others, including those of Napoleon and Desaix, was cast by 
Piggiani. The height of the statue is 14 feet, its weight 30,000 
pounds, and it cost 337,800 fr. It is one of the finest statues in 
the capital. The platform and pedestal are of white marble, 
and the latter bears the following inscription. 

Henrici Magni, paterno in populum animo notissimi principis, sacram 
effigiem, civiles inter tumultus, Gallia indignante, dejectam, post opta- 
tum Ludovici XVIII. reditum ex omnibus ordinibus cives aere collalo 
restituerunt. Necnon et elogium cum effigie simul abolitum lapidi rur- 
sus inscribi curaverunt. D.D. die xxv. mens.: Aug. M.D.CCC.XVIII. 

On the opposite end is the following inscription, copied from 
the pedestal of the former statue :— 

Errico IV., Galliarum Imperatori Navar. R. Ludovicus XIII. Filins 
ejus opus inchoatum et intermissum, pro dignitate pietatis et imperii 
plenius et amplius absolvit. Emin. D. C. Richelius commune votum 
populi promovit. Super illustr. viri De Bullion, Boutillier P. aerarii F. 
faciendum curaverunt M.D.C.XXXV. 

Bas-reliefs adorn the sides of the pedestal. In one, Henry IV. 
is seen commanding food to be distributed to the inhabitants 
of Paris, who, during the siege of the capital, had taken refuge 
in his camp; and in the other, the king, entering as a con¬ 
queror into his capital, stops in the Parvis de Notre Dame, and 
gives orders to the prevot of Paris to bear his message of peace 
to the inhabitants. Underneath the pedestal, at the time of its 
foundation, was placed a magnificent copy of the Henriade of 
Voltaire. On the Pont Neuf formerly stood the Pompe de la 
Samaritaine, so called from a bronze bas-relief on it, which 
represented Jesus and the woman of Samaria. It was built in 
1604, to supply wate • to the Tuileries and the Louvre, and was 
demolished in 1813. 

From the middle of this bridge the stranger passes into the 

Place Dauphine, which was formed in 1608, and received its 
name in honour of the birth of the Dauphin, afterwards Louis XI11. 
It is of triangular shape; the houses are irregularly built of 
stone and brick. In the centre is a fountain, after the designs 


294 NINTH ARR0NDISSEA1ENT. 

ofPercier and Fontaine, erected in 1803, to the memory of 
General Desaix, who fell at the battle of Marengo. The bust 
of the hero, crowned with laurel by the allegorical figure of 
France, is placed on a circular basement The following in¬ 
scriptions will he remarked : 

Allez dire au Premier Consul que je meurs avec Ie regret de n’avoir 
pas assez fait pour la posterite. 

Below : 

Landau, Kehl, Weissenbourg, Malte, Chebreis, Embabe, les Pyra- 
mides, Sediman, Samanhout, Kane, Thebes, Marengo, furent les temoins 
de scs talents et de son courage. Les ennemis l’appelaient le juste; ses 
soldats, comme ceux de Bayard, sans peur et sans reproche; il vecut, 
il mourut pour sa palrie. 

On the other side : 

L. Gh. Ant. Desaix, ne a Ayat, departement du Puy-de-Dome, le 
XVII aoRtMDCCLVIII; mort a Marengo le XXV prairial an VIII de la 
Republique MDCCC. 

This “place” was formerly the residence of the principal 
lawyers and officers of the Parlement, and was the scene of 
some civic festivities in the time of Louis XIV. 

Immediately behind the Place Dauphine lies the 

Palais de Justice, an immense pile of buildings.—The visitor 
may enter it here, or else pass along either of the quays, and 
strike into the rue de la Barillerie, where he will have a com¬ 
plete view of its front, consisting of a spacious court enclosed 
by a richly-worked and gilded railing in front, a central edifice 
opposite, and two wings at right angles connected with it, but 
not lofty. The “place” opposite is that whereon criminals 
undergo the punishment of the carcan, or pillory. (1) A hand¬ 
some fountain will, it is said, shorllyadorn this site. The kings 
of France made the Palace their residence until about the end 
of the 14th century; part of it is said to have been erected by 
Robert, son of Hugh Capet, about the year 1000; it was much 
enlarged by St. Louis, and almost entirely rebuilt by Philippe 
le Bel, in 1313. Louis XL, Charles VIII., and Louis XII., also 
made considerable»additious to it; and Francis 1. resided in il 
in 1531. In 1018, the ancient hall, called la Salle du Palais , 
was destroyed by lire; (2) and the present hall was erected on 

(1) At the i ight hand inner corner, the visitor will see the grated arch¬ 
way of the Conciergerie, at which the guillotine carts used to receive 
the victims of the reign of terror. The present entry to the prison is 
from the Quai de PHorloge. 

(2) The palace was set on fire by or at the instigation of certain great 
personages, who were said to have been implicated with Ravaillac* the 
assassin of Henry IV., in order to destroy some documents which had 


PALAIS DE JUSTICE. 


295 

its site in 1622, by Desbrosses. In 1766, another tire destroyed 
the buildings extending to the Sainte Chapelle, and the front of 
the actual edifice was then built. The central front of the 
palace, approached by a lofty flight of steps, is decorated by 
four Doric columns, supporting above the entablature and balus¬ 
trade four colossal figures. From the roof risesa square dome, like 
those of the Louvre and Tuileries. The ball erected in 1622, called 
the Salle des Pas Perdus, serves as a place of meeting, and gives 
access to several of the courts. It is divided into two aisles by a 
line of arcades extending from end to end; the ceiling is vault¬ 
ed, and is to be painted by M. Horace Yernet; the pilasters 
are of the Doric order. Its length is 216 feet, and its width 84. 
One of the most remarkable things which it contains is a fine 
monument under one of the arches to the memory of Ma- 
lesherbes, erected in 1822, after the designs of Dumont. It 
consists of a basement supporting two Ionic columns sur¬ 
mounted by a pediment, with his statue by Bosio, and the in¬ 
scription : 

Strenue semper fidelis regi suo, in solio veritatem, presidium in 
carcere attulit. 

Two statues, one representing France, the other Fidelity, both 
by Bosio, occupy the lateral plinths. The panel of the base¬ 
ment contains a bas-relief by Cortot, representing Louis XVI. 
in conference with the Counsel entrusted with his defence. This, 
removed after the last revolution, has been replaced lately. 
From the Salle des Pas Perdus doors lead to the Court of Cassa¬ 
tion, the Tribunal de Premiere Instance, and other apart¬ 
ments. (1) In the central building is the Cour Royale. The south¬ 
ern wing contains the apartments of the officers of the archives, 
and the sacristy, etc., of the Sainte Chapelle. The roofs of all 
this part of the building are formed into long low rooms for the 
reception of the judicial section of the archives; those over the 
Salle des Pas Perdus, erected towards the end of the reign of 
Louis XV., are vaulted with hollow bricks, a suggestion adopt¬ 
ed from the ancient Romans by the architect Antoine. A wide 
elliplically arched Doric passage, parallel with the Salic des 
Pas Perdus, gives access to the Court of Assize to the south, and 
to a long and narrow passage lately restored, in the style o.f 
the times of Francis I.; its roof is flat, with painted lie-beams, 
interrupted by elliptical arches of oak resting on engaged Go¬ 
thic columns. At the end of this gallery is a statue of St. Louis, 
remarkable not for itself, but for its position; it stands against 

been brought to the greffe , and which might have compromised several 
noble families. 

(l) Valuable libraries are attached to the different courts. 


296 NINTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 

the wall of one of the towers of the palace, in which the will 
of Louis XIY., immediately on its being received by the Parle- 
ment, was enclosed in a recess, and bricked up, in order that 
its execution might become impossible. A smaller gallery to 
the left, at right angles with the former, has its panels filled 
with portraits of the most eminent French lawyers, and leads 
to the Chambre des RequStes, a large rectangular hall, with a 
painting representing the Roman Ambassadors before the Areo¬ 
pagus of Athens. The Court of Cassation holds its sittings in 
a room which was formerly the grande chambre of the Parle- 
ment. The Gothic ornaments were removed, and in their place 
was substituted, by Peyre, in 1810, a decoration simple in de¬ 
sign but rich in ornament. This court is adorned with statues 
of the Chancellors d’Aguesseau and l’Hopital, by Deseine, and 
a picture of king Louis Philippe. The ceiling of the Court of 
Assizes is ornamented with paintings by Jean and Bon Boul- 
logne. The other courts, including the Royal Court, are very 
ordinary apartments, and some of them quite inadequate to the 
purposes they are applied to. On all these accounts the alter¬ 
ations in the Palais de Justice now in progress are highly 
desirable. A most interesting part of the old palace build¬ 
ings, on account of its many melancholy associations, is the 
Conciergerie, which was the prison of the palace, when it 
was used as a royal residence, and is entered by the first gate 
to the left, Quai de l’Horloge. Its name is derived from the 
concierge (keeper), who was the chief of a jurisdiction called 
Bailliage du Palais, had the title of bailli, and enjoyed several 
privileges. The buildings which form this prison still retain 
the character of feudal times, and have lately been repaired 
and restored. The Conciergerie is now used as a prison for 
persons during their trial, who are brought there a few days 
previously, from the other houses of detention. (See Prisons .) 
On entering the first court, the visitor is introduced to a sombre 
hall, formerly the Salle des Gardes of St. Louis, with heavy 
frowning vaulting-ribs, forcibly reminding him of the dark 
times of the Middle Ages. To the left is the Greffe, and further 
on a low prison-room, where those condemned to death pass 
their last hours, their arms hound down by a strait-waistcoat. 
The first hall leads to the parloir of the men; they are sepa¬ 
rated from their visitors by two iron railings with net-work, 
and with an intervening space between them of two feet, so 
that nothing but the voice can pass. A passage to the left gives 
access to the cells, which, though secure, are airy and dry, 
looking into a court with llower-beds, where the prisoners 
may pass the day. To the right of this corridor is the door lead¬ 
ing to the prison of Marie Antoinette, now the sacristy of the 


CONCIERGERIE. 


297 

Chapel. It is a low llat-vaulled chamber with plain groins; 
an altar blocks the old entrance, and around it are three paint¬ 
ings, by Simon, Pajou, and Drolling, representing scenes con¬ 
nected with the latter days of that Queen’s life. (1) A black 
marble slab in Ibe wall, flanked by inverted torches, bears a 
suitable inscription. (2) The Chapel is simple, and elliptically 
arched; above, opposite the altar, is a heavily grated gallery 
for the women ; the men sit below. Returning to the passage, 
at its furthest end, is the prison where Louvel, who stabbed 
the Duke de Berry, was confined. The dungeons in which the 
unfortunate Princess Elisabeth, sister of Louis XVI., and Ro¬ 
bespierre, were confined, are no longer used. The yarloir for 
women, constructed with the same precautions as that of the 
men, was the prison of Count Lavalelte, who owed his escape 
to the courage of bis wife; his tomb, at Pere Lachaise, bears a 
bas-relief illustrative of the subject. The cells for women are 
in every respect similar to those for the men, and look into a 
court likewise; both these courts are crowned with heavy de¬ 
pending spikes. Next is the chauffoir , a round chamber with 
a lofty cupola, and benches around, where prisoners warm 
themselves in winter by a large stove. In the centre is a stone 
slab, forming a table, the same on which St. Louis used to 
distribute alms. From the ring in the centre of the cupola an 
iron cage is said to have been suspended, where the remains 
of Ravaillac were kept after his execution. On leaving this 
part of the prison, the visitor crosses the first court, and is 
introduced to the Souriciere, situated under the Salle des Pas 
Perdus. Once the kitchen of St. Louis, as two enormous old 
lire places denote, it is now divided into three prisons, one for 

(1) One of these paintings represents her taking the sacrament pre¬ 
vious to her execution. M. de Lamartine, however, in his Hisloire des 
Girondins, denies the fact, owing to her refusal to accept the sacra¬ 
ment from a priest having sworn to the Republic, no other being 
allowed to her. 

(2) The following is the inscription above alluded to, said to have 
been written by Louis XVIII.:— 

D.O.M. Hoc in loco Maria Antonia Josepha Joanna Auslriaca, Ludo- 
vici XVI. vidua, conjuge trucidalo, liberis ereptis, in carcerem con- 
jecta, per dies LXXVI. aerumnis luctu et squalore adfecta, sed propria 
virlute innixa ut in solio, ita et in vinculis majorem fortuna se praebuit. 
A sceleslissimis denique hominibus capite darnnala, morte jam immi- 
nente, aeternum pietatis, fortitudinis, omniumque virtutum monumen- 
tum hie scripsit, die XVI. Octobris, MDCCXCIII. Reslituto tandem 
regno, career in sacrarium conversus dicalus est. A.D. MDGCCXVI., 
Ludovici XVIII. regnanlis anno XXIL Comite de Cazes a securilate 
publica Regis minislro, praefecto aedilibusque curantibus. Quisquis hie 
ades, adora, admirare, precare. 


NINTH AUUONDISSEMENT. 


298 

men, another for women, the third for children; the prisoners 
from other prisons are brought here in cellular vans, for a few 
hours at most, to he examined, and then are conveyed back 
again. The vaulting is pointed, with ponderous ribs springing 
from brackets or capitals of pilasters. From one of the win¬ 
dows is seen an arched staircase leading to the Seine, and 
closed by a heavy grated door. This prison has several limes 
been the theatre of dreadful massacres; the most recent was 
on the 2d and 3d of September 1792, when 239 persons were 
inhumanly murdered. On the Quai de FHorioge will be per¬ 
ceived two turrets Hanking the ancieni gateway of the Con- 
ciergerie, lately restored; the most western of these contains 
the prison of Marie Antoinette. There is a third but lower tur¬ 
ret still farther to the west; and to the east a tall square one 
at the corner of the rue de la Barillerie. In this tower was 
placed the first large clock seen in Paris, made in 1370, by a 
German, Henry de Vic. The bell, called tocsin du Palais, bung 
in this lower, repealed the signal given from St. Germain FAu- 
xerrois for the massacre on the eve of St. Bartholomew. The 
wall of the adjoining building, fronting the Marche aux Fleurs, 
is decorated with two figures, by German Pilon, of large pro¬ 
portions and in high relief, representing Justice and Strength. 

On leaving this place, the visitor will find adjoining, on the 
Quai de l’Horloge, after the last tower to the left, the 

Depot de la Prefecture de Police. —The prison on the ground- 
floor is reserved for prostitutes, who generally are released 
after a few hours’ confinement, their only fault being disorderly 
behaviour. The beds, which line the walls around, are hinged, 
and pulled up during the day, leaving a bench around for 
sitting. The parloir is on the other side of the entrance. On 
the first story are cells, called prisons de pistole, for such 
prisoners as are willing to pay for them. On the second story 
are similar cells for men, and a room set apart for the children 
of prisoners, or such as have been found lost or abandoned in 
the streets. The third story contains a common prison for men, 
similar to that for women below. The distribution for meals is 
effected as follows: a keeper stands before the door, from 
which one prisoner at a time emerges with a bowl in his hand, 
where he receives his portion, and immediately passes into an 
adjoining room to eat. In the mean time the common prison 
left empty is cleaned, and at the next meal the prisoners by the 
same ordeal return to their old quarters. Prisoners seldom slay 
here for more than two or three days; after a preliminary 
examination they are either released, or sent to one of the 
other prisons of Paris to abide their trial. The floating popula¬ 
tion of this place amounts on an average to 230 individuals; 


SAINTE CHAPELLE. 


299 

the mean entrances anti exits per day exceed a hundred. This 
prison is far from being even tolerable, and new buildings will 
be shortly erected to increase it and render it less disgusting. 
For permission to see this prison, and the Conciergerie (rarely 
granted) apply by letter to M. le Prefet de Police, Quai 
des Orfevres. 

The visitor may now cross the court, which leads to the 

Hotel de la Prefecture de Police, once the official residence 
of the Premier President du Parlement. It contains all the 
offices connected with the jurisdiction of the Prefect of Police, 
and among them that for passports, also a good library, not 
open to the public. To the left of the entrance, rue de Jeru¬ 
salem, is a bold archway thrown over the narrow rue de 
Nazareth, not open to the public, said to be the work of Jean 
Goujon, and bearing the monograms of Henry II. and the 
celebrated Diane de Poitiers. 

The tower at the corner of the rue de Jerusalem belonged 
to the buildings erected for the enlargement of the Palais de 
Justice in 1682, by the first President, M. de Lamoignon. 

Turning into the next street east of the Rue de Jerusalem, 
from the Quai des Orfevres, the visitor will perceive the most 
sumptuous edifice connected with the old palace of the 
kings of France, 

The Sai.nte Chapelle, erected in 1245— 8, by Pierre de Mon- 
lereau, for the reception of the relics bought by St. Louis of 
Baldwin, Emperor of Constantinople, and dedicated in 1248. 
Upon the spot where this splendid building nows stands was a 
chapel dedicated to St. Nicholas. The Sainte Chapelle consists 
of an upper and lower chapel; the former communicated 
with the palace, and was appropriated to the king and court 
alone; the latter, opening upon the courts below, served as a 
parochial church for the neighbourhood of the palace. This 
beautiful edifice is now undergoing a thorough restoration, 
both internally and externally. It is a precious gem of florid 
Gothic architecture, and well merits the attention bestowing 
on it.— Exterior. This edifice is unfortunately not situated to 
advantage; the space before the entrance is narrow, and barely 
admits of a general view of the western front. It consists of 
an undercroft portico of three Gothic arches, intersected by 
buttresses reaching beyond those of a loftier upper one, sym¬ 
metrical with the former; two more lateral buttresses end in 
two attached spired towers, accessible from within by winding 
staircases, and connected on the outside by a gallery and 
parapet crowning the upper portico. Between the towers is a 
crocketted gable, surmounting a splendid circular window 


300 NINTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 

constructed by Charles VIII. The spires are octagonal, of the 
15th century, and charged with mouldings, tracery, and crockets; 
a crown of thorns is visible on each at half their height. The 
southern side consists of four large pointed upper windows, in 
the Three-in-one style, with three narrow choir-windows 
divided each by a mullion. Buttresses stand between the 
windows both of the undercroft and upper story; the upper 
ones are surmounted by crocketted gables, connected by a 
sweeping open worked parapet crowning the whole. This 
style is uniform all around, the northern side being however 
blocked in part by the buildings of the Palais de Justice. The 
southern side is spoiled by the broad staircase of evidently 
later construction, which leads to the upper portico of the 
western front. The roof is very sloping and of excellent con¬ 
struction; from it rose a lofty spire of wood, which, having 
been partly burned, was removed a little before the Revolu¬ 
tion. The height of the edifice from the ground is 110 feet; its 
total length the same, and its breadth 34 feet. The height of 
the old spire from the vaulting was 100 feet; that which is to 
replace it will be 70.— Interior. On ascending the staircase, 
the visitor is introduced to the upper chapel, presenting the most 
enchanting view imaginable. It consists of a single nave and semi¬ 
circular choir; the former has four windows on each side, the 
latter seven all around, narrower, as already mentioned. They 
are separated with clusters of three detached columns, with 
bases and capitals; the groining is quadripartite and elegantly 
ribbed. The whole is gorgeously painted and gilt in diagonals, 
diamonds, etc., with fleurs de lys interspersed; the colours, 
consisting mostly of blue and red ground, are not symmetrically 
distributed. The basement is adorned with tripartite archings, 
embraced by sweeping elliptical cornices from pier to pier; 
under the windows of the choir the arches are bi-composed; 
under the third window of the nave on each side two of the 
arches open into an ambrey receding into the wall and adorned 
in continuity with the rest. At the extremity of the choir is a 
low vaulted square chapel, the roof of which is supported by 
seven arches resting on slender columns, with a span of three 
feet; in the front spandrils are two angels. A screen of three 
trifoliate arches, resting on low columns similar to the former, 
with perforated spandrils, and richly gilt, connects this chapel 
on either side with the main basement. The visitor will per¬ 
ceive in the nave a beautifully carved wooden staircase, of 
the 13lh century, intended to be placed in its original situation, 
and preserved from destruction by the care of M. Lenoir. All 
the windows are filled with beautiful stained glass of 1248, 
which escaped destruction during the two revolutions, as if by 


SAINTE CHAPELLK. 301 

miracle. The visitor, on descending one of the above-mentioned 
winding staircases, will enter the undercroft chapel, still in a 
very dilapidated state, yet presenting uncommon architectural 
details. Detached columns support the complicate ribs of the 
vault, leaving space behind them to form two very narrow 
aisles. In some of the spandrils frescos of the time of 
Louis XIII. are still visible. During the demolitions a passage 
was discovered here, leading from the chapel to the charter- 
room, and coeval with the rest. Some coloured sculp¬ 
ture of later date is still visible in it, and this passage will 
probably be restored, to harmonise with the rest of the build- 
hig. The undercroft has not been altered since the time of 
St. Louis, and is rich in tombstones, with which its floor is 
entirely covered. A richly-endowed chapter, the head of which 
look the style and dignity of a prelate, was founded here by 
St. Louis, and became remarkable afterwards for its litigious 
disposition, which has been so admirably satirized by Boileau 
in his immortal Lutrin. The poet was himself buried in the 
lower chapel, where his tombstone is still, it is said, to be 
seen. The relics purchased by St. Louis were, the crown of 
thorns, a piece of the true cross, etc.; besides these, the chapter 
possessed some antique gems that were invaluable, and which 
are now to be seen in the Bibliotheque du Roi. The Sainle 
Chapelle with its relics cost St. Louis a sum equal to 2,800,000 fr. 
At the Revolution it was fortunately converted into the depot 
of the archives of the Courts of Justice, not, however, until the 
internal decorations of both chapels had been destroyed. These 
have been necessarily removed on account of the present re¬ 
pairs; in shifting them, old plans of the building as originally 
designed and executed having been found, it is to be hoped 
that the government architects will strictly adhere to them.(l) 

Adjoining to the buildings of the Palais de Justice on the 
south, and to the west of the Sainte Chapelle, is the Hotel du 
Tresorier, afterwards called the Cour des Comptes, a handsome 
building of the time of Louis XV., which has just been much 
altered and enlarged, and is now the residence of the Prefect 
of Police. (2) 

Very extensive alterations are making in the Palais de Justice; 
the necessary funds for that purpose, estimated at about 
8,000,000 fr., having been voted by the municipality of Paris. 

(1) Recently, while prosecuting the restoration of this church, a 
human heart enclosed in a coffer was found under the altar, which 
some antiquarians assert to he the heart of St. Louis; an opinion which 
Baron Taylor’s researches in Sicily in 1843 tend to confirm, but which 
Other accounts most positively deny. 

(2) The bureaux of the Cour des Comptes are now Quai d’Orsay. 

2G 


302 NINTH ARKONDISSEMENT. 

The whole pile ol buildings wiil stand completely isolated ; and, 
to this effect, two new streets will he formed, one extending 
from quay to quay, through the Cour du Harlay, the eastern 
sideol which will be built in a very llorid style of architecture, 
and the other running parallel to the Quai des Orfevres, bound¬ 
ing the new buildings to the south. The eastern part of the 
Palais de Justice will also be much altered; the southern and 
eastern sides of the court in which the Sainle Chapelle stands 
will be appropriated to the correctional division of the Tribunal 
de Premiere Instance; the civil division will occupy all the 
chambers surrounding the Salle des Pas Perdus. The Cour 
RoyaJe and the Cour d’Assizes will occupy new courts, to be 
erected nearly on their present site, and commodious olliees and 
chambers wilt be built for the law oflicers of the crown attached 
to them. The present Prefecture of Police will probably be 
demolished. These works will occupy the attention of the ar¬ 
chitect, M. Huyot, and the Council-General of the Seine, for se¬ 
veral years; and, when completed, they will transform the 
Palais de Justice into one of the most imposing monuments, 
ot the capital. 

At the northern end of the rue de la Barillerie is the 
Marche aux Fleurs et aux Arbustes, Quai aux Fleurs.—I t is. 
planted with four rows of trees, and embellished with two 
tountains. blowers, shrubs, and trees are sold here, and on the 
adjoining Quai Napoleon, on Wednesdays and Saturdays. 

Opposite the Palais de Justice, and the new and handsome 
rue de Constantine, will be observed the Prado, a public danc¬ 
ing-room, built on the site of the old church of St. Larthelemi., 
(See Public Amusements.) 

At the western end of the Quai aux Fleurs is the 
Pont au Change.— Upon this spot stood the Grand Pont 9 
originally the only communication between the lie de la Cite 
and the northern bank ol the Seine. Upon this bridge which 
wasot wood, Louis VII., in 1141, fixed the residence of monev- 
changers, and prohibited them from dwelling elsewhere. From 
this it derives its name. Several times destroyed and rebuilt it 
was burnt down in 1621 , and reconstructed in 1647 of stone 
with houses on each side, which were demolished in 1788. It 
consists ol 6 arches; its length is 369 feet, and its breadth 96. 

At the eastern end of the same quay is the 
Pont Notre Dame.— This bridge, which is the oldest in Paris 
and replaced one built in 1414, was begun in 1499, after the 
designs ol Jean Joconde, and terminated in 1607. It consists of 
hve semicircular arches, and is 302 feet in length, b Y 60 in 
breadth. In 1600, it was richly ornamented with statues and 
medallions oi the kings of Franee; houses also stood on it; all 


CATHEDRAL CHURCH OF NOTRE DAME. 303 

these disappeared in 1786. On the western side of the bridge is 
the Pompe du Pont Notre Dame, a square tower, supported on 
piles, and containing a reservoir, into which water is raised by 
means of machinery worked by the stream of the river. 

Following the quay, the visiter will soon arrive at 

The Cathedral Church of Notre Dame.— The precise dates 
ol this splendid edifice, as regards its original foundation, and 
even some of its principal reconstructions and repairs, have 
never been accurately fixed. The subject has given rise to much 
controversy, and nothing more than an approximation can in 
many cases be attempted. It appears certain that a temple 
existed on this spot in the time of the Romans, the foundations 
having been discovered in 1711, when nine large stones were 
found, one of which was a votive altar raised by the Nautx 
Parisiaci, to Jove, and another bore the effigy of the Gallic 
deity Hesus. They have been described in several dissertations, 
and are now in the gallery of antiques at the Louvre. It is 
Supposed that on the site of this temple a church dedicated to 
St. Stephen was erected about 365, in the lime of Valentinian 1. 
This was either enlarged or rebuilt by Childebert, son of Clovis, 
on the advice of St. Germain, about 522, and is spoken of by 
Forlunatus, bishop of Poitiers, and contemporary of St. Ger¬ 
main; who, at the same time that he declines comparing it with 
the temple of Solomon, lakes occasion to point out its spiritual 
superiority, and says that it contained only 30 columns : ter 
decern ornata columnis.” (1) Robert, son of Hugh Capet, under¬ 
took the reconstruction of this church, which was called Notre 
Dame, from one of its chapels which Childebert had dedicated 
to the Virgin. He commenced, according to some, about the 
year 1000; and the foundations of the actual church are said 
to have been part of Robert’s work. The building either was 
not proceeded with, or fell into ruins; for the next account 
that we find is, that the first stone was laid by Pope Alexan¬ 
der III., who, at that time, had taken refuge in France, while 
Maurice de Saliac was bishop of the diocese. Robert du Mont, a 
contemporary writer, says in 1177, that Bishop Maurice had 
then been long occupied in building the church, and that the 
apsis of the choir was finished but not roofed in. The high 
altar was consecrated in 1182 by Henry, legate of the Holy See; 
and in 1185, Heraclius, Patriarch of Jerusalem, who had come 
to Paris to preach the third crusade, officiated in the church 
for the first lime. The west front was finished by Bishop Mau¬ 
rice de Sully in 1223, during the reign of Philip Augustus; and 
the southern transept with the portal in 1257, during the reign 

(l) See Duchesne, tome I., p. 461. 


304 


NINTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 


of St. Louis, according to the following inscription, renewed 
on the wall of that part of the edifice:— 

Anno Domini MCCLVII. Mense Februario idus secundo 

Hoc fuit inceptum Christi genitricis honore. 

Kallensi Lalhomo vivente Iohanne magistro. 

The architect’s name will be better recognized in its primitive 
form as Maistre Jehan de Chelles. The northern transept and 
portal were erected in 1312, by Philip le Bel, with the proceeds 
of the confiscated estates of the Templars; and, besides this, 
there were also erected in the same century the triangular 
canopies surmounting the windows of the chapels that flank the 
aisles, as well as the richly-sculptured compartments that adorn 
the walls of the choir. These were begun by Maistre Jehan 
Roux, and finished by Maistre Jehan le Bouteiller, in 1352. 
The latest addition to the church is the small portal of the north¬ 
ern aisle of the choir, called the Porte Rouge, from its having 
been formerly painted in that colour; it was erected by Jean 
Sans-Peur, Duke of Burgundy, the assassin of the Duke of 
Orleans, in 1407, as an expiation for bis crime. The western 
doors, with their elaborate iron-work, were executed about 
1570-80, by Biscornette; and the internal works of the choir 
by which the original beauty of this part of the edifice was 
much impaired, were begun by order of Louis XIV., in 1699 
and finished in 1714. This is nearly all that can be ascertained 
or conjectured regarding the history of this fine cathedral. It 
is a regular cruciform church, having an octagonal eastern end 
and double aisles surrounding the choir and nave, with a com¬ 
plete series of lateral chapels. At the western end are two lofty 
and nearly similar towers, which were intended to support 
spires. Eastward of the southern transept are the sacristy, and 
the remains of the private corridor to the archbishop’s palace- 
all the other sides of the church are perfectly isolated. In front 
of the cathedral is an area, called Parvis de Notre Dame, which 
was built on till 1196, when Maurice de Sully, 68th bishop of 
Paris, having purchased and pulled down the houses, formed 
a suitable approach to the church, which has since been en¬ 
larged. In consequence of the progressive elevation of the soil 
the pavement of Notre Dame was so much below the level of 
the Parvis, in 1748, that it was entered by a flight of 13 stens 
leading down to it. In that year the ground was lowered as at 
present; and it has been lately decided that it is to be still more 
owered so as to uncover some of the old steps formin- tlm 
basement of the edifice. The dimensions of this church were 
engraved on a brass tablet, in old French verse, and fixed against 
one ol the pillars; they were stated to be as followslength 


CATHEDRAL CHURCH OF NOTRE DAME. 305 

390 feet, width at transepts 144 ft., height of vaulting 102 ft., 
height of western towers 204 ft., width of western front 128 ft. 
The length of the nave is 225 ft., width 39 ft.; the roof is 356 
feet in length, formed of chesnut timber, and rising 30 feet 
above the vaulting. The weight of lead which it supports has 
been calculated at 420,2401b. The diameters of the circular 
windows are 36 feet. The pillars of the nave are four feet in 
diameter; and their foundations, as well as those of the whole 
church, are laid 18 feet below the level of the soil, and are not 
built on piles, but on a hard stratum of gravel. The general 
style is of the very early and very pure pointed architecture; 
those parts built in the 14th century being closely copied from 
what previously existed, and distinguishable only by a higher 
degree of finish and delicacy in the ornaments. With the ex¬ 
ception of some of the work of Pierre de Montereau, at St. Ger¬ 
main desPres and St. Martin des Champs, it is exceedingly rare 
to find any work of the 12th and 13th centuries executed with 
greater delicacy and care in all its parts than that of Notre 
Dame. Of the exterior, the western front is at once the finest 
and most remarkable feature. Three ample portals lead, the 
central and larger one into the body of the nave, the lateral ones 
into the aisles. They are each composed of a series of arches, 
retiring one within the other, having in the intermediate mould¬ 
ings angels and scriptural figures, saints, etc. The two lateral 
portals have double entrances separated by square pillars; the 
tympans of the three ogives are richly sculptured. The same 
style existed in all three portals, and also in those of the tran¬ 
septs : but the central portal of the western front was spoiled 
by Soufflot, in 1760, who formed it into a pointed arch. The 
subjects of the sculptures which adorn these portals have af¬ 
forded matter for much discussion, but no where are they treated 
in a form so attractive as in Victor Hugo’s Notre Dam,e de Pa¬ 
ris. The ogive of the Portail du Milieu represents the Last 
Judgment, divided into three parts, viz • 1. the angels sound¬ 

ing the last trump, the tombs opening, and the dead rising : 
2. the separation of the righteous from the wicked: 3. the 
Saviour on his throne, worshipped by the Virgin and St. John 
the Evangelist, and accompanied by angels bearing emblems 
of the crucifixion. Among the sculpture of the arch may 
be remarked figures of Moses and Aaron, the Savioui tread¬ 
ing beneath his feet the wicked, whom Satan is dragging 
to hell; the rider on the red horse at the opening of the second 
seal; the blessedness of the saints, etc. The sides ol Ibis en¬ 
trance present 24 bas-reliefs, representing 12 virtues, with tbeir 
opposite vices. Beyond these are four other bas-reliefs: the 
offering of Abraham; the departure of Abraham for Canaan; 


306 NINTH ARRONDISSJ5MENT. 

Job beholding the destruction of his {looks and herti.3 by a tor¬ 
rent; and Job reproved by his wife. On the doors are carved, 
Christ bearing his cross, and the Virgin veiled as the mother of 
sorrows. This portal was ornamented with statues of the 12 
apostles, destroyed at the Revolution. The pillar of the Portail 
Ste. Anne, on the right, is ornamented with a statue of St. 
Marcel treading beneath his feet a dragon, which had disin¬ 
terred a woman to devour her. In the tympan above the door 
are several compartments, in which are sculptured,—Joseph 
putting away Mary; Joseph brought back by an angel: Joseph 
taking the Virgin to his home; the Revelation of the birth of 
John the Baptist; the annunciation; the visitation; the nativity; 
the angel appearing to the shepherds; Herod holding his coun¬ 
cil ; the wise men on their way to Bethlehem; the offering of 
the wise men; and the presentation in the Temple. Above 
these are figures of the Virgin and Child accompanied by an¬ 
gels, Solomon praying, and St. Marcel. At the summit is the 
Eternal Father in his glory, surrounded by the prophets; be¬ 
neath him the Paschal Lamb, and still lower, Jesus Christ sur¬ 
rounded by angels and saints. Statues of St. Peter and the 
most notable personages among the ancestors of the Virgin 
were destroyed at the Revolution. The Portail de la Vierge,' 
on the left, presents the same general appearance as the pre¬ 
ceding. On the pillar between the two doors is a statue of the 
Virgin and Child. The pediment is divided into three parts, 
namely,—figures of six prophets; the death of the Virgin, and 
the crowning of the Virgin. The arch above is adorned with 
figures of angels and saints. On the sides of this portal were 
eight statues of saints, destroyed at the Revolution. Above 
and beyond the niches are various bas-reliefs, representing 
subjects taken from church history. The most interesting bas- 
reliefs of this entrance are the 12 signs of the zodiac, and the 
agricultural labours of the 12 months of the year, on the door¬ 
posts. The eighth sign, Virgo, is represented by a sculptor 
forming a statue, supposed to be that of the Virgin. On the 
right side of this pillar are sculptured the age of man in six 
stages, from youth to decrepitude; on the left, the different 
temperatures of the year, in six bas-reliefs. The two lateral 
doors are ornamented with iron-work, executed about the 
year 1580, which is much admired. The buttresses on each 
side of the doors have each a niche, in which, till the Revolu¬ 
tion, were statues of Religion, Faith, St. Denis, and St. Stephen. 
Immediately above the three doors is a gallery of small pillars 
supporting trefoils, called Galerie des Rois, which formerly 
contained 28 statues, supposed to represent kings of France but 
which were the kings of Judah, ancestors of the Virgin.’ All 


CATHEDRAL CHURCH OF NOTRE DAME. 307 

these statues, executed in the 13 th century, were destroyed at 
the Revolution. A second gallery, of short pillars and arches, 
is designated Galerie de la Vierge, from having been formerly 
ornamented with a colossal statue of the Virgin attended by 
two angels. Above this gallery is the large rose-window be¬ 
tween the towers, and in each of the latter are pointed arches, 
over which runs a lofty gallery of slender shafts, called the 
Galerie des Colonnes, and continued round the sides; above 
rises the last division of the towers, each side occupied with 
coupled windows, and richly croeketed buttresses at the angles 
crowned by an open-worked battlement of quatrefoils; they 
are ascended by a staircase of 389 steps from the rue du Cloitre. 
'Ihe metropolitan church formerly possessed a fine peal of 
bells, of which one only remains. In the southern tower were 
two, called lourdons; one of these, named Emmanuel-Louise- 
Therese, escaped the fury of the populace at the Revolution. 
It was hung in 1082, and baptized in the presence of Louis XIV. 
and his queen Therese. It weighs 32,000 lb., and the clapper 
9761b. The other bell, named Marie, weighing 25,0001b., was 
broken and melted down in 1792, as were eight bells of the 
northern tower. In the latter tower, three bells for the clock 
were placed in 1812; these are also used to summon to divine 
service. A small spire, which rose above the transept, was 
pulled down in 1792, for the sake of the lead with which it was 
covered, and six bells, which it contained, were melted down. 
The mechanism of the clock is very curious. A striking feature 
of the exterior of Notre Dame is to be found in the vast flying 
buttresses, fronted by crocketted pinnacles, which rise from 
the outer walls of the chapels to support the lofty clerestory of 
the nave, choir, and transepts. The southern side of the cathe¬ 
dral was never so much ornamented as the northern, having 
been in part blocked up by the archiepiscopal palace. The 
portal of the southern transept, called Portail St. Marcel, is 
ornamented with subjects from the history of St. Stephen, to 
whom the first church on this spot was dedicated. In the space 
filling the head of the arch are five bas-reliefs, representing 
St. Stephen instructing the Jews; the saint answering the Jews’ 
arguments; the saint insulted by the Jews; the stoning of 
St. Stephen; and his burial. Above the bas-reliefs is a figure 
of Christ pronouncing his benediction ; two angels at his sides 
are in the attitude of adoration; the arches are ornamented 
with small figures of angels, prophets, patriarchs, bishops, etc. 
The porch is surmounted by pinnacles, the centre one open- 
worked, above which is the great rose-window, and over it a 
smaller one; the point of the gable, flanked by two arched 
turrets, supports a statue of St. Stephen. On the sides of the 


308 NINTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 

entrance are eight bas-reliefs, taken from the saint’s life. A 
statue of St. Stephen on the pillar between the two doors, and 
statues of St. Denis, St. Rusticus, St. Eleutheros, St. Marcel, a 
second of St. Denis, and one of St. Germain l’Auxerrois, in 
niches on the sides, were destroyed in 1793. The fronts of the 
lateral canopies of the porch contain bas-reliefs representing 
St. Martin giving half his mantle to a poor man who begs alms* 
and Christ, accompanied by two angels, carrying to heaven 
the soul of St. Stephen. In niches are two large statues of Moses 
and Aaron. The grand northern porch, Portail Septentrional , 
presents nearly the same general appearance as that of the 
south. On the pillar between the two doors is a statue of the 
Virgin trampling on a dragon. In the lancet-form space above 
the door are the Nativity, the Adoration of the Wise Men, the 
Presentation in the Temple, the Massacre of the Innocents’, the 
Flight into Egypt, and five scenes of the Deliverance of Demo¬ 
niacs. The arches are ornamented with small figures of angels, 
martyrs, saints, etc. In the space at the vertex sits a monarch 
enthroned, presenting a sealed volume to suppliants kneeling. 
Statues of Faith, Hope, Charity, and of the three Wise Men of 
the East, which adorned the porch, and others representing 
the virtues and the vices, Queen Esther and Aliasuerus, David 
and Goliath, and Job, which stood in niches at the bottom of 
the buttresses between this porch and the Porte Rouge, were 
destroyed in 1793. The Porte Rouge is a most exquisitely 
sculptured doorway, surmounted by a triangular canopy, with 
crocketed pinnacles. In the triangular space under the vertex 
of the archway, are Jesus Christ and the Virgin crowned'by an 
angel; on the right and left Jean Sans Peur, Duke of burgundy 
and Margaret of Ravaria, his duchess, in a kneeling posture.’ 
In the arches are several sculptured groups, greatly mutilated 
representing acts or miracles of St. Marcel. In the wall be¬ 
tween the Porte Rouge and the eastern extremity of the church 
are seven bas-reliefs, representing the death of the Virgin; the 
funeral of the Virgin; the Assumption; Christ surrounded bv 
angels; Christ and the Virgin on a throne; the Virgin at the 
leet of Christ in agony; and a woman about to sell herself to 
the Devil, delivered by the Virgin. The interior of the church 
is not so rich as the exterior. The arches of the nave are 
pointed; the piers are bold, with large and vigorously execut¬ 
ed capitals : those of the choir were similar, but are now en¬ 
tirely altered. The pillars of the aisles are alternately simply 
circular and clustered with 12 slender columns each, the shafts 
in the latter case being detached, and of remarkable elegance 
of proportion. The triforium of the nave presents a pointed 
arch over three smaller ones supported by slender shafts, the 


CATHEDRAL CHURCH OF NOTRE DAME. 309 

triangular spaces (on the southern side of the nave only) per¬ 
forated by a single circular aperture. The triforium in the 
choir is a pointed arch over two others, but without the cir¬ 
cular opening. The clerestory, which is the same throughout 
nave and choir, consists of a series of pointed double windows. 
Tbe vaulting is hexapartite throughout, and for the lateral 
arches dome-shaped : the stone work is only three or four 
inches thick, and the vaulting-ribs rest upon the capitals of the 
upper clustered columns. Beneath the rose-windows of the 
transepts are light galleries of very slender shafts supporting 
pointed trifoliate arches, with open spandrils, the whole of most 
exquisite workmanship. The chapels are plain throughout, 
and are similar in detail to the rest of the interior. The rosaces 
are very elaborate and exceedingly beautiful; they still pre¬ 
serve their stained glass of the 13th century, being all.that 
remains of it in the cathedral; the effect produced by them is 
very splendid. The walls of the transepts are decorated with 
ogive tracery. A curious pointed arch will be observed under 
the organ-loft, probably of late date. Under each tower may 
still be seen a large circular aperture in the vaulting through 
which the ropes passed from the belfries above. In the wall 
of the northern tower, in the aisle, is a bas-relief of 1464, 
forming part of the tomb of Etienne Yver, removed from the 
chapel of St. Nicolas. The upper part represents the Last 
Judgment, and the lower, a man rising from the tomb, near 
which is seen a body covered with worms. At the second 
pillar of the nave was a colossal statue of St. Christopher, 
erected by Antoine des Essars, in 1413: it was removed in 
1785. An immense vault, extending the entire length of the 
nave, was formed in 1666 for the interment of the canons, 
chaplains, choristers, etc., of the cathedral, but lias not been 
used since burial in churches was discontinued. At the en¬ 
trance of the nave are two large shells in marble for holy wa¬ 
ter. The organ is remarkably fine; it is 45 feel in height, 36 in 
breadth, and contains 3484 pipes. The pulpit is quite unworthy 
of a cathedral. The high altar was pulled down, and most of 
the ornaments destroyed, at the Revolution, but under the 
empire it was re-erected, and such of the works of art as 
could be collected were restored. The first object that 
strikes the eye on entering the choir is the carved work of 
the stalls, in oak. The wainscoting above them is decorated 
with bas-reliefs representing the principal events in the life 
of the Virgin, and other scriptural subjects, executed by Du- 
boulon, after the designs of Rene Carpentier, a pupil of Girardon. 
The stalls are terminated by two thrones of great beauty, 
surmounted by canopies, and adorned with angels holding 


310 


NINTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 


emblems of religion. At the coronation of Napoleon, the Pope 
occupied that to the right, cardinal Belloy that to the left. Above 
is a cornice and eight pictures in the following order, be¬ 
ginning on the right : 1, the adoration of the wise men of 
the east, by De la Fosse; 2, the birth of the Virgin, by Phi¬ 
lippe de Champagne; 3, the visitation of the Virgin, the master¬ 
piece of Jouvenet, who painted it with his left hand, after his 
right had become paralysed; 4, the annunciation, by Halle; 5, 
the assumption, by Laurent de la Hire; f>, the presentation of 
the Virgin in the Temple, by Philippe de Champagne; 7, the 
flight into Egypt, by Louis Boullongne; 8, the presentation of 
Christ in the temple, by the same. The pavement is of costly 
marble, and in the centre is a brazen eagle which serves as a 
reading-desk. The sanctuary and high altar are each approach¬ 
ed by flights of steps formed of Languedoc marble : over 
the altar is a marble group by Coustou, of fine design and exe¬ 
cution, representing the Descent from the Cross. On one side 
of this was formerly a statue of Louis XIII. by Coustou, and, 
on the other, one of Louis XIV. by Coysevox; but they were 
both destroyed in 1831, together with many other ornaments 
of the church. At present six archangels are placed around 
the altar. Beneath the choir is a vault, formed in 1711 , 
not shown to strangers, in which are interred the archbishops 
of Paris. Four, who had been deposited there, were disin¬ 
terred at the Revolution for the sake of the leaden coffins. 
Another smaller vault contained in leaden coffins also the en¬ 
trails of Louis XIII. and Louis XIV., which shared the same fate. 
Upon the exterior of the wall that encloses the choir are 23 
curious and highly valuable sculptured compartments in alto- 
rilievo, executed in 1352. They represent passages in the life of 
Christ, in the following order, beginning on the left: l, the vi¬ 
sitation; 2, the calling of the shepherds to the manger; 3, the 
nativity; 4, the adoration of “ the wise men”; 5, the massacre 
of the innocents; 6, the flight into Egypt; 7, the presentation 
in the temple; 8, Christ in the midst of the doctors; 9, the bap¬ 
tism of Christ; 10, the marriage of Cana, in Galilee; 11, the 
entry of Christ into Jerusalem; 12, Christ washing the feet of 
his disciples; 13, the last supper; 14, Christ on the Mount of 
Olives. The next four, namely, the crucifixion, the entomb¬ 
ment, the resurrection, and the ascension of Christ, were 
destroyed when alterations were made in the arches" of the 
choir next the high altar. 15, Christ and Mary Magdalen ; (6, 
the holy women; 17, Christ appearing to the apostles; 18, Christ 
and the two disciples on their way to Emmaus; 19, Christ at 
table with the disciples, breaking the bread ; 20, Christ a^ain 
appearing to the disciples; 21, the incredulity of St. Thomas- 


CATHEDRAL CHURCH OF NOTRE DAME. 314 

22, the miraculous draught of fishes; 23, the mission of the 
apostles; 24, Christ giving the apostles his benediction before 
his asceusiou. The ligures are coloured to represent nature. 
Above these reliefs are eight line pictures, viz., beginning on 
tne right St. Stephen conducted to martyrdom, by Loyse; 
SI. Philip transported by the Spirit, by Blanchet; St. Peter heal¬ 
ing the lame man at the gate of the Temple, by Sylvestre; the 
scourging of St. Protest las; St. John de Capistran, a Franciscan 
monk, at the head of a troop of Crusaders, marching against 
the Turks; the beheading of John the Baptist by Boullongne; 
St. Andrew conducted to martyrdom by Blanchard; and Christ 
healing the possessed, by Boullongne. The lateral chapels of 
Notre Dame were formerly remarkable for their splendour, the 
walls being covered with marble, or linely-carved wainscoting, 
enriched with gilding, and containing sumptuous tombs belong¬ 
ing to noble families. These were stripped of their riches at 
the Revolution; many of them, however, have been repaired, 
and contain works of art worthy of the visitor’s attention. The 
following is a description of the most remarkable of them, 
beginning on the right of the principal entrance :—1, chapel 
ol t>te. Anne—the Assumption, by Philippe de Champagne; 
Christ raising the daughter of Jairus, and some curious bas- 
reliefs. 2, chapel of St. Bartholomew and St. Vincent—baptis¬ 
mal font in white veined marble; also, St. James forgiving his 
accuser before his martyrdom, by Noel Coypel. Here also is 
an old press with excellent paintings on wood of the Kith cen¬ 
tury. 3, cliapel of SI. James and St. Philip—Christ raising Jai- 
rus’s daughter to life, by Guy de Vernansa! (1688); also, the 
Departure of St. Paul from Miletus to Jerusalem by Galloche. 

4, chapel of Ste. Genevieve—the martyrdom of St. Andrew at 
Patras, by Lebrun, and statues of Ste. Genevieve and St. Louis. 

5, chapel of St. Thomas of Canterbury—Christ driving the 
dealers from the Temple, by Halle, and the Calling of St. 
Peter and St. Andrew, by Michael Corneille. In the southern 
transept which follows is an Annunciation by Philippe de Cham¬ 
pagne. In the aisle adjoining the choir, the chapel next 
to the old sacristy, formerly the 12th, is that of St. Geraud, 
Baron d’Aurillac, now in a dilapidated stale, remarkable for 
having been the place where the young Dauphin, son of Louis 
XVI., was buried in 1795. 13, chapel of St. Remy, formerly 
enriched with tine monuments of the Ursins family. 14, chapel 
of St. Peter and St. Stephen—the Martyrdom of St. Simon, by 
Louis de Boullongne. 15, chapel of the Comte d’Harcourt— 
a mausoleum, erected after the designs of Pigalle, to the me¬ 
mory of Henry Count d’Harcourt, who died in 1769. In con¬ 
sequence of the demolition of the old sacristy built by Souiflot 


342 NINTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 

in 1756, this chapel has been provisionally arranged for that 
purpose. It is here, therefore, the visitor will see most of the 
furniture that belonged to the former sacristy, and the costly 
gold and silver church-utensils sparkling with precious stones, 
the rich vestments, among which the coronation robes of Na¬ 
poleon, and a full-length portrait of M. de Quelen, archbishop 
of Paris, by Perdreau.—Returning to the chapels, we find, 
16, chapel of Ste. Genevieve, with the representation of 
that saint in beautiful Gobelins, tapestry; the Descent of 
Christ into hell, by Delorme; and St. Hyacinth reanimating 
a corpse, by Heim. 17, chapel of the Virgin, in which 
were formerly superb monuments to the memory of the 
celebrated Albert de Gondy, Duke de Retz, and Cardinal 
de Gondy, bishop of Paris. The altar is of marble, and 
above it is a beautiful statue of the Virgin, by Raggi, after a 
model by Rernini, which was formerly in the church of the 
Carmes, rue de Vaugirard. In this chapel are two pictures,— 
the Raising of the widow’s son, by Guillemot, and the Burial 
of the \irgin, by Abel de Pujol. A carved reading-desk of oak 
is deserving of attention. 18, chapel of St. Charles Borromeo. 
This chapel contains a splendid monument, by Deseine, to the 
memory of Cardinal de Belloy, archbishop of Paris, who died 
in 1806, in his 99th year. It represents the prelate seated in a 
chair, on a sarcophagus, bestowing alms on an old woman 
supported by a girl; his left hand rests on the bible. The dra¬ 
peries are highly finished, the altitudes easy and noble, and 
the cardinal's head is remarkable for its expression and re¬ 
semblance. In this chapel is a picture of the Martyrdom of 
St. Hippolite, by Heim, and another of St. Charles Borromeo 
administering the sacrament to the infected of the plague at 
Milan, by Vanloo. 19, chapel of St. Martin, Ste. Anne, and St. 
Michael. Nothing remains of the former splendid decorations 
of this chapel but the marble incrustations of the walls. In the 
windows are the arms of the Cardinal de Noailles, whose 
family vaults are underneath. There is a picture of Christ 
curing the blind, by Granger; also Christ healing the woman 
suffering from an issue, by Gazes. 20, chapel of St. Ferreol 
and St. herrulien, in which is a fine monument of Leclerc de 
Juigne, archbishop of Paris, who died in 1811; St. Peter 
preaching, by Poirson; also a Crucifixion, by Guido. Next 
comes the northern transept with an altar to St. Marcel, and 
a statue of that saint; and paintings of the martyrdom of St. 
Andrew, a Crucifixion, and the man possessed by a demon 
putting the false exorcists to flight, by Matthieu Ety. 25 this 
chapel contains a Mater Dolorosa. 26, the Adoration of the 
Shepherds, and the martyrdom of Ste. Catherine of the wheel 


f 


CATHEDRAL CHURCH OF NOTRE DAME. 3/|3 

27, chapel of St. Julien le Pauvre and Ste. Marie l’figyptienne. 
This chapel is enriched with wainscoting executed in the be¬ 
ginning of the 16th century, and brought from the chapter- 
room of Notre Dame; it contains figures of the apostles and 
saints, separated from each other by small pilasters ornament¬ 
ed with arabesques. The pictures are an Assumption, by Sal¬ 
vator Rosa, and the Conversion of St. Paul, by Restoui. In 
three hollow gilt busts are reputed relics of St. Ursula and the 
Eleven Thousand Virgins of Cologne. 28, chapel of St. Law¬ 
rence—the Decollation of St. John the Baptist, by Louis de 
Boullongne, and St. Peter healing the lame man. 29, chapel 
of Ste. Genevieve—St. Paul imprisoned at Philippi, by Nicolas 
de la Platte-Montagne; and the Apostles accused before the 
Prefect, by Loir. 30, chapel of St. George and Ste. Blaise— 
St. John preaching to the shepherds, by Parrocel; and Christ 
curing the sick, by Alexandre. Independently of the chapels 
above mentioned, is one in the southern tower, appropriated 
to the use of a religious confraternity of St. Vincent de Paule. 
The stranger should not omit to visit the sacristy and treasury 
ot Notre Dame. At the sacking of St. Germain l’Auxerrois and 
the archbishop’s palace, in 1831, the populace broke in here 
also, and, headed by officers of the National Guards, destroyed 
every thing that came within their reach. The damage thus 
occasioned was irreparable; the coronation robes of Napoleon, 
and the splendid dresses he presented to the bishops and the 
chapter on the occasion of that ceremony, were torn up for 
the sake of their gold embroidery. They have, however, since 
been repaired. (1) The history of the events of which this 
church has been witness would be far too long for descrip¬ 
tion in this place; there are several excellent works upon 
Notre Dame, which will amply repay the attention of the cu¬ 
rious examiner. (2) On the northern side of the cathedral was 
the cloister and college of the canons, which were destroyed 
at the Revolution. The municipality has confided the improve¬ 
ments now in progress to Messrs. Hyppolite Godde, Caudron, 
and Plantard; the first for the architecture, the second for the 
sculpture, and the third for the masonry. 

On the southern side of Notre Dame stood the Archbishop’s 
Palace, erected by Maurice de Sully, in 1161, but entirely rebuilt 

(1) A celebrated artist, who was making a most elaborate picture of 
the interior of Notre Dame at that period, having left it on the easel in 
the vestry, it was cut into a thousand pieces. 

(2) The principal are Gilbert, “ Hisloire de Notre Dame de Paris,’’ 
l vol.4to.; Felibien et Lobineau, “Hisloire de Paris,” 2 vols, folio; 
“ History of Paris,” 3 vols. 8vo, Galignani; also the excellent work by 
Victor Hugo,“ Notre Dame,” and Michelet, “Hisloire deFrance,” vol. 2. 

27 


31 tk NINTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 

by Cardinal de Noailles in 1G97. During the Revolution the 
Constituent Assembly held their sittings in the Archbishop’s 
Palace, it was afterwards inhabited by the chief surgeon of the 
Hotel Dieu, and the chapel converted into an amphitheatre of 
anatomy. In 1802 it was restored to the clergy. The palace was 
a handsome residence, worthy of the see, and, wilhitsgardens, 
occupied the southern extremity of the island. The apartments 
were splendid, and the furniture, partly antique, was valuable. 
The library was rich in MSS. of the middle ages, and contained 
many literary curiosities. Rut on the 13th February, 1831, the 
populace, having sacked the church of St. Germain i’Auxerrois, 
determined on tiie destruction of the archbishop’s palace; and 
on that night and the following day every thing it contained 
was either broken, burnt, or thrown into the river by the 
mob. The palace itself and gardens were left in such a state 
that they were subsequently removed by order of government, 
and not a vestige remains. A public promenade is now formed 
on its site, and an iron railing has been placed round the sides 
of the cathedral. 

Plans for the new Archbishop’s palace are in preparation. It 
will occupy the whole of the site between the rue Chanoinesse 
and the rue and quai Massillon. It will correspond with the 
Hotel de Yille, in the style of the Renaissance, and the rich 
fragments of the Hotel de la Tremouille, deposited pro tempore 
at the Ecole des Reaux Arts, will be introduced into its structure. 

Rehind the Cathedral is the neat but much too small Gothic 
fountain called Fontaine Notre Dame, erected in 1845. its height 
is GO feel. Two hexagonal basins, the largest of which is 33 feet 
in diameter, receive the water from the mouths of three trice- 
phalous monsters (personating heresy in certainly no very nat¬ 
tering manner) crushed by archangels that occupy the blunt 
angles of a triangular basement, supporting a Gothic chapel of 
the same form, and consisting of three clusters of columns 
supporting as many canopies with ogives, surmounted by a 
spire. Under this chapel, the ceiling of which is decorated with 
gold on a blue ground, is a statue of the Virgin Mary with the 
Infant, standing on a hexagonal pedestal; this, together with 
the statues of the angels, is by Mertieux; the twelve apostles 
adorning the plinth and the other ornaments, profusely lavished 
on the edifice, are by M. Pommateau. The architecture of this 
fountain corresponds with the style of the piers of the new 
chain bridge called Pont Rouge, leading to the lie St. Louis. 

Close by this, leading to the southern bank of the river, is the 

Pont de l’Akcheveche.— It consists of three arches, varying 
from 18 to 20 yards in span, and was built in 1827. 

To the west of this bridge is the 


HOTEL DIEU. 315 

Pont au Double. A double was paid as a toll on it till 1789, 
from which circumstance is derived its name. Part of it was 
formerly occupied by the building of the Hotel Dieu, but when 
reconstructed in 1834 it was entirely thrown open to the public. 
It is now demolished to he rebuilt of one arch when the hy¬ 
draulic works going on at this point for the enclosing of the 
lesser arm of the Seine by sluices will be completed. A new 
port is also in construction at this spot. 

Here, at the south-west angle of the cathedral, in the Parvis 
Notre Dame, stands the chief metropolitan hospital, the 

Hotel Dieu. —This is the most ancient hospital in Paris, its 
foundation being attributed to St. Landry, bishop of Paris, in 
the 7 th century. Philip Augustus is the first king known to have 
been a benefactor to it, and by him it was styled Maison de 
Dieu. St. Louis enlarged the hospital, exempted it from taxes 
and duties, and assigned to it an annual revenue. In 1602, a 
further enlargement having become necessary, Henry IV. caused 
two wards to he added. Louis XIII., Louis xiv., Louis XV., and 
Louis XVI., were considerable benefactors to this establish¬ 
ment, and several private individuals have contributed to its 
enlargement and improvement by donations and legacies. The 
Hdtel Dieu consists of large buildings, separated by the southern 
branch of the river, divided into well-ventilated wards, for 
men and for women. Gardens are also attached for the conva¬ 
lescents of both sexes, who are separated from each other. The 
laboratory, pharmacy, lingerie, etc., are all on a large scale, 
and are well worthy of examination. The buildings are remark¬ 
able for their solidity rather than for architectural excellence. 
The present chief entrance, a projecting Doric vestibule, sur¬ 
mounted by a triangular pediment, was erected in 1804, after 
the designs of Clavereau. In the first hall on entering from the 
vestibule, and on the right hand, is a marble statue by Bosio, 
of the celebrated philanthropist M. de Monthyon, who died in 
1820, and was a great benefactor to the hospitals of Paris. Un¬ 
derneath the pedestal the remains of this gentleman were 
deposited in 1838, on the abolition of the cemetery of Vaugi- 
rard. Opposite to this statue is one of St. Vincent de Paule, 
holding an infant in one arm, and stooping to take up another. 
On the walls are portraits of Bichat, Derault, Moreau, Dupuy- 
tren, Boudon, Mery, Desault, and Thibault. There is besides an 
elegant marble monument to Desault and Bichat. Crossing the 
Seine by an inner passage, we reach a hall containing six 
inscriptions on marble commemorating the benefactors of the 
establishment, and statues of Henry IV., St. Landry, and St. 
Louis. At the Revolution, this establishment was called Hospice 
d’Humanitd, hut has since resumed its former title of Hotel 


34 6 NINTH ARUONDISSEMENT. 

Dieu. The buildings of this hospital have undergone many 
changes within the last few years, and are destined to undergo 
still more. Indeed hardly any portion of the old part will be 
ultimately retained, excepting the venerable and interesting 
chapel, which, being buried, as it were, in the mass of surround¬ 
ing constructions, will be brought prominently into view, on 
the most southern side; for that purpose, it will have to undergo 
much outward reparation, as the lower portions, of the choir 
especially, are much dilapidated. It is well worthy of a visit 
from the antiquary. It was built in the 13th century, and was 
once known as the church of St. Julien le Pauvre; it has an 
entrance by the street of that name, but is usually entered by 
the Hotel Dieu, following the passage above alluded to. Exter¬ 
nally it has nothing remarkable but the old buttresses flanking 
the walls; but the interior is certainly of a later date, and bears 
evident proof of reconstruction. It consists of a nave and aisles, 
with a choir elegantly groined and ribbed; the ribs spring from 
the capitals of treble clustered columns with bases ; the arches 
of the nave are supported by cylindrical pillars with square 
abacus and enriched capitals. The windows are pointed and 
single; none but four of the choir are bisected by mullions. 
The aisles are terminated by chapels next to and in the same 
style with the choir. In the southern aisle is a very ancient 
bas-relief monument to a certain advocate Rousseau. There 
are also some good paintings, one of which represents Christ 
exhorting the Jews to give to Caesar what is Caesar’s. Over the 
entrance is the Raising of Lazarus by Lelay, also, next to it, 
the Guards terrified by the resurrection of Christ. In the choir 
is the Judgment of Solomon, and the Flagellation. Two objects 
have been kept in view in the changes made and still in progress 
at this hospital—the opening of the space adjoining the cathe¬ 
dral, and the uninterrupted continuation of the quays along 
the Seine, on the south side. The Hotel Dieu consists at present 
of three detached parts, connected by means of a covered 
bridge and a tunnel passing under the quay to the new build¬ 
ings. The apartments of the new building erected in the Enclos 
St. Julien have been opened to the sick; they contain 104 beds 
but the demolitions have caused a diminution of 255 beds to 
remedy which, the Hotel Dieu Annexe, as already mentioned 
P p_ » ed in the rue de Charenton. The 

number of beds here at present is 8,50. Thirty-three religieuses 
and twelve novices of the order of St. Augustin attend on the 
patients. In this house are received the wounded and sick 
with the exception of children, incurable and insane persons* 
and those with cutaneous or syphilitic diseases. Lying-in 
women are admitted only in cases of extreme necessity, there 


317 


PETIT PONT. 

being a special hospital for that class of patients. The average 
number of patients is 12,000, and the average mortality 1 in 8. 
Physicians: Drs. Recamier, Husson, Gueneau de Mussy, Cail- 
lard, Honore, Magendie, Jadioux Rostan, Chomel, Guerard, 
Louis, and Martin Solon. Surgeons : Messrs. Roux, P. Royer, 
and Blandin. The public are admitted to visit the patients or 
inspect the establishment on Thursdays, and Sundays, from l 
to 3; but strangers with passports are admitted daily, on ap¬ 
plication at the bureau. Whoever is anxious to become 
acquainted with the internal arrangements and administration 
of the hospitals of Paris will do well to visit the Hotel Dieu, 
since it may be taken as the model of the others, though on a 
more extensive scale. Students who wish to attend must pro¬ 
cure a ticket from the director in the bureau of the hospital, 
which will be granted on the production of a passport or 
diploma; without this admission is refused. 

At 2, Place du Parvis Notre Dame, is the 

Bureau Central d’Admission dans les Hopitaux et Hospices. 
— This office is established in buildings erected for a foundling 
hospital. On the sides of the entrance are two fountains, con¬ 
sisting of antique stone vases, upon each of which is a bas-rer 
lief, representing females attending a dying man, in allusion to 
the Hotel Dieu. This office will be removed to the Hotel de 
Ville as soon as the final arrangements of that building take place. 

A new street, called the rue d’ArcoIe, where, at No. 22, the 
pretty front of the Bains de la Citd will be remarked, and lead¬ 
ing to the bridge of that name, has replaced a small one, in 
which stood the ancient church of St. Pierre aux Boeufs. The 
western doorway of this edifice, on its demolition in 1837, was 
removed to the church of St. Severin. In the Impasse St. Ma¬ 
rine, leading out of the same street, is the church of that saint, 
now a warehouse. 

Quitting the Place du Parvis, the visitor will come to the 

Petit Pont. —The existence of a bridge at this spot, which 
was formerly the only communication between the He de la 
Cite and the southern bank of the Seine, dates from a period 
prior to the Roman conquest. It was carried away, by inunda¬ 
tions or ice, thirteen times between the 13lhand 17th centuries, 
and rebuilt of wood, with houses on it, in 1659. In 1718 it was 
burned down, and was soon after rebuilt in stone, as it now 
appears. It has three arches, and is 104 feet long by 52 broad. 

Further west, on the Quai du Marche Neuf, is the Morgue, a 
plain Doric building, where dead bodies found in the streets or 
river are exposed for recognition.—(See page 55.) 

West of this is the Pont St. Michel, so called as early as 1424, 
from a small neighbouring church. Having fallen down in 1616, 


348 


ninth arrondissement. 


it was rebuilt in stone, with houses on the sides, which re¬ 
mained till 1804, when they were taken down. Traces of a 
bas-relief of Louis XIII. on horseback may still he discerned on 
the side next the Pont Neuf. The bridge is formed of four se¬ 
micircular arches, and is 170 feet long "by 83 broad. 

The visitor is now recommended to proceed to the lie St. 
Lows, originally called lie aux Vaches, to distinguish it from 
the lie Notre Dame. Henry IV. conceived the project of erect¬ 
ing bouses on this spot; but the execution of it was reserved 
for Louis XIII. The lie de la Cite was connected with the lie 
St. Louis by a bridge of two wooden arches, resting on piers 
of masonry, erected originally in 1G14, but this was recon¬ 
structed in 1819, and called the Pont de la Cite. It is a sus¬ 
pension bridge, having at each end an elegant Gothic pier 
with four pinnacles sustaining the chains. The balustrades are 
ot iron, and the bridge is only for foot passengers. From the 
quay to the north of it the 

Pont Louis Philippe, opened on the f^te-day of the king, 
May 1, 1334, extends from one isle to the other, and, then' 
; r om the lie St. Louis to the Quai de la Greve. It is a handsome 
bridge, having three stone arches on the northern side; the re¬ 
mainder being suspended with ropes of iron wire, which pass 
through two bold archways of stone. Each line of suspension 
is 252 feet in length by 24 feel in width, and is supported on 
each side by six chains or cables composed each of 250 threads 
of iron wire. The vertical chains consist of 40 wires each. The 
constructors were Messrs. Seguin, Brothers. It cost 1,000,000 fr • 
its average annual produce is 06,000 fr. 

The northern quay of the lie St. Louis will lead to the 

Pont Marie, which joins the Quai des Ormes to the lie St. 
Louis. It was built by Marie, superintendent-general of the 
bridges in France, in 1641. Two arches were carried away by a 
flood, in 1658, with 22 out of 50 bouses on it. The remainin' 1 - 
houses were removed a short time before the Revolution ft 
has five arches, and is 78 feet broad and 300 feet long. 

In the rue St. Louis en File, the visitor will remark No. 45 
the Hdtel Chamisot, now the Archeveche, the architecture and 
ornaments of which are worthy of notice. He will then come to 

St. Louis en l’Ile, first district church of the 9th arrondisse- 
ment.—Tins church was erected in 1664 on the site of a small 
chapel, built in 1606, and dedicated to St. Louis and Ste. Ceci¬ 
lia ; its architect was Levau, but it was subsequently altered bv 
Leduc and Doucet, The exterior is remarkable for a lofty oolv- 
gonal spire (erected in 1765, according to an inscription on the 
tower) in open stone-work. It has only laterally some archi¬ 
tectural ornament, and can hardly be said to have a principal 


ST. LOUIS EN L’lLE. 319 

entrance, that having been till lately blocked up by the sur¬ 
rounding buildings. It is in contemplation, however, to adorn 
it with an appropriate front, and to restore the western entrance 
as it stood. The interior is disposed in the form of a cross, with 
a Doric aisle running round the nave and choir. The piers of 
the arches are fronted with Corinthian pilasters, and, above 
the entablature, is a range of clerestory windows. The sculp¬ 
tures of the interior, consisting of scroll-work in the cupola 
and its pendentives, were executed by J. B. Champagne, 
nephew of the celebrated painter of the same name. The vault¬ 
ing of the nave is semicircular. In the chapel of the commu¬ 
nion in the southern aisle of the nave is an excellent produc¬ 
tion of Johannot, St. Louis receiving the Sacrament in his last 
moments; and, as an altar-piece, Christ breaking the bread, 
by Coypel; next, a Holy Family, by Perrin; and an Assumption, 
by Peyron. In the next chapel is a Vision of St. Louis, and in 
the following transept a Virgin in plaster by Ladatle. In that 
of St. Vincent do Paule is a good picture of the saint exhorting 
the sisters of charity, by Halle, and in the next, St. Louis ador¬ 
ing the Host. Behind the choir are three chapels painted in 
fresco, and enriched with modern stained windows. The first, 
closed by an oaken screen with bas-relief carvings of six 
apostles, is painted by Norblin, with figures of Prudence and 
Fortitude on the lateral walls; in the window is Ste. Isabelle 
of France. The second, occupying the central arch, is the 
chapel of St. Louis, and contains four frescos by Jollivet: 1, St. 
Louis receiving the cross from Pope Innocent IV.; 2, the same, 
in prison, encouraging his brothers; 3, Delivering his authority 
into the hands of the Abbot of St. Denis, to govern the king¬ 
dom in his absence; 4, his Death. The figure of the saint is the 
subject of the window. The third chapel, facing the northern 
aisle, is closed with a screen like the first, with the remaining 
six apostles in bas-relief; in the window is Blanche of Castile; 
and on the lateral walls, Temperance and Justice, by Norblin. 
In the following chapel is St. Francois de Sales, by Halle; in 
the next, an Assumption, and in the following St. Paul preach¬ 
ing. In the northern transept is Ste. Genevieve, in plaster, by 
Ladatle. The stations of the Via Gratis are by Bodem, and 
occupy several piers. Next is the chapel of St. Louis Gonzaga, 
with the picture of that saint. Lastly, in the Chapel ot the 
Dead, is a line Deliverance from Purgatory. The organ occupies 
the arch above the old entrance; behind it, is a beautiful paint¬ 
ing of St. Louis relieving the plague-stricken Crusaders. Under 
the arch is a St. John the Baptist in plaster, by Guichard. On 
either side of the high altar are statues of St. Peter and St. PauL 
by Bra, and above two frescos, representing the busts ol Moses 


NINTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 


320 

and Jeremiah. The altar piece is a Crucifixion. The church was 
formerly celebrated as the one to which the University of Paris 
came in procession on festivals. 

At No. 2, in the rue St. Louis en File, is the 

Hotel Lambert, built byLevau, and of nearly the same date 
as the church just mentioned. The court is small ; a magnificent 
staircase, with a scroll-work balustrade, leads from a portico 
to the slate apartments, which retain the gilding, painted pa¬ 
nels, and ceilings, as they were originally executed, and pro¬ 
duce a splendid effect. The ceilings in these rooms and in the 
long gallery are by Lesueur, Lebrun, and Levau, executed in 
1040, with a degree of elaborate finish that is rarely to be met 
with. The hotel is rich in two historical souvenirs: Voltaire 
lived in it when he formed the plan of the Henriade, and in 
the gallery above mentioned, Napoleon, in 1815, held a last 
conference with his minister, M. de Montalivet, when he found 
that all was lost. This splendid hotel, once the residence of a 
wealthy president du Parlement of the 17th century, and after¬ 
wards used as a storehouse for the bedding of the garrison of 
Paris, is now the property of the Princess Gzartoriska, whose 
judicious taste has repaired and restored it to all its former 
splendour. It is visible on Thursdays, by applying by letter to 
the Princess for a ticket. 

At the eastern extremity of the lie St. Louis two light and 
elegant suspension bridges for fool passengers communicate 
with the northern and southern banks of the Seine. That to the 
north is styled the Pont de Damiette, and leads to the Quai des 
Celestins; that to the south the Pont de Constantine, and leads 
to the Quai St. Bernard; they were both terminated in 1837- 
A sou paid on either of these bridges franks for both. 

At the foot of the Quai de Bethune is the Ecole de Natation 
de VHotel Lambert, for ladies, and the Ecole Petit, a swimming- 
school for gentlemen. The water here is clear, and the bather 
should come thus far if he would enjoy the luxury of a bath 
free from the impurities which the river necessarily receives in 
its passage through the town. 

From this quay the Pont de la Tournelle, so called from the 
old tower erected by Philip Augustus, that formerly stood on 
the opposite bank of the river, reaches to the Quai St. Bernard. 
It was built by Marie in 1G20, was twice carried away, and was 
rebuilt, about 1G5G, at the expense of the city. It consists of 
six semicircular arches, and is 380 feet long by 42 broad. The 
foot-pavements on either side are supported by cast-iron arches 
lately inserted between the piers, and the parapet is of cast iron. 

Behind the lie St. Louis, the ground hitherto called the lie 
Louviers, and which had for centuries been used as a receptacle 


THE ARSENAL. 321 

for firewood, will soon be the handsomest part of this quarter 
of the capital. It communicates with the lie St. Louis by the 
new bridge de VEstoccade, and is enclosed by the Boulevard 
Morland and the Quai Henri IV., below which is a port.—Crossing 
the Canal by the small bridge opposite, the visitor will find the 
new Place Mazas, planted with trees, and partly belonging to 
the 8th Arrondissement. Here is a small but elegant Doric pa¬ 
vilion containing an Octroi office. This place will shortly com¬ 
municate in a direct line by the new rue Mazas, containing la 
Nouvelle Force and the Lyons railway station, with the Place 
du Trone. 

Crossing the He Louviers, the visitor will find the 

Grenier de Reserve, situated on the Boulevard Bourdon.— 
This immense storehouse was begun by order of Napoleon, in 
1807, as a depot for the grain and flour required for four months’ 
consumption of the city. In 1814, however, the walls of the 
ground-floor alone were finished : it was to have consisted of 
five stories, besides the ground-floor, cellars, and attics. In 
1816, the building was resumed on a more economical scale, 
and the ground-floor was roofed in and divided into three 
stories. It is 2,160 feet in length by 64 in breadth, except 
where the five projecting compartments give an additional 
breadth of 13 feet; and is 32 feet high. Beneath the whole is 
a range of cellars, under which four water-cuts were constructed 
for the purpose of turning mills. Every baker in Paris is obliged 
to keep constantly deposited here 20 full-sized sacks of flour, 
and may warehouse as much in addition as he pleases, on pay¬ 
ment of a moderate charge. The building will contain fully 
100,000 sacks; the cellars are used as a supplementary entrepot 
for wine. During the prevalence of the cholera at Paris, in 
1832, this building was converted into a temporary hospital. 
For admission, apply at the bureau attached to the building, 
in the place de FArsenal. 

Near this, to the north-east, is the Government Depot des 
Poudres et Salpitres. In a low building lately added are ma¬ 
nufactured percussion caps for the use of the army. All these 
establishments are dependencies of 

The Arsenal, rue Sully.—About 1396, the City of Paris built 
a depot for artillery upon this spot, which afterwards passed 
into the hands of the government. A dreadful explosion 
having taken place in 1563, the buildings were reconstructed on 
a more extensive scale, by order of Cbarles IX. Henry IV. 
augmented the buildings and garden, and created the office of 
grand-master of the artillery, in favour of Sully. Louis XIV. 
having caused arsenals to be constructed on the frontiers of 
the kingdom, the casting of cannon in Paris was discontinued. 


322 NINTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 

The only use made of the foundries since that period has been 
to cast statues for the gardens of Marly and Versailles. During 
the regency, in 1718, some of the old buildings were demolished 
to erect a mansion for the grand-master. In several rooms was 
deposited the valuable library, called Bibliotheque de Paulmy, 
originally formed by the Marquis de Paulmy d’Argenson. To 
this collection were added that of the Duke de la Valliere, and 
several others, when it took the title of Bibliotheque de VArse¬ 
nal. During the Restoration it was called the Bibliotheque de 
Monsieur, having been purchased by the Count d’Artois, after¬ 
wards Charles X.; but since 1830, it has resumed its appellation 
de VArsenal. It is very rich in history, foreign literature, and 
poetry, particularly in Italian works; and contains about 
200,000 printed volumes and 6,300 manuscripts, among which 
are some beautiful missals. This library is open to the public 
from 10 to 3 every day, except on Sundays and holidays, and 
from the lSlh of September to the 3d of November. The rooms 
of the apartments of Sully, in which he used to receive Henry IV., 
are still to be seen. They are richly gilt, and resemble, in the 
style of their ornaments, the chambre d coucher de Marie de Md- 
dias, at the Luxembourg. To see them, apply with passport 
at the bureau of the Director. 

Close to the Arsenal, on the Quai des Celestins, were the re¬ 
mains of the once magnificent convent of the Cdlestins, and 
of their church, which, next to that of St. Denis, contained a 
greater number of tombs of illustrious personages than any in 
Paris. It was particularly celebrated for the chapelle d’Orleans, 
which was appropriated to the remains of the brother of 
Charles VI. and his descendants. The buildings are now con¬ 
verted into barracks of the Municipal Guards. Most of the 
tombs of the chapel were transported by the patriotic architect, 
M. Lenoir, to the Muse'e des Monuments Francais, rue des Petits 
Augustins, and two remarkable ones are at the Louvre in the 
Muse’e de la Sculpture Moderne. (1) This hitherto neglected por¬ 
tion of the capital is now improving fast; works are in progress 

or projected, which will give a new and handsome frontage to 
the river. 

At the corner of the rue St. Paul, No. 2 bis, are a few remains 
of the Hotel deSt. Paul, long a royal residence, the remainder 
is of comparatively late date, and is now occupied by a com¬ 
pany for distributing through Paris the filtered water of the 
Seine. Strangers are admitted to view this establishment. 


(l) During the demolition of part of the ancient church in Mav 1847 
several tombs, were discovered at to feet below the surface one of 

which was that of a daughter of King John of England, surnamed 
Lack'land. 


ST. PAUL ET ST. LOUIS, 323 

Opposite the Celestins the suspension bridge, Pont de Da- 
miette, leads into the Isle St. Louis. (See page 318.) 

At the corner of the rue des Lions, in the rue St. Paul, is a 
small square turret, of the age of Henry IV. All the ground 
between the rue St. Antoine, the moat of the Bastille, the river, 
and the rue du Figuier, was formerly occupied by the hotels 
and buildings which Charles |V., in 1360-5, purchased of seve¬ 
ral individuals, and formed into a royal palace, called the 
Hotel de St. Paul , on account of its proximity to the church. 
1 lie king inhabited the hotel ol the Archbishop of Sens, at the 
western extremity - the Hotel de St. Maur was occupied by his 
brothers. \\ ithiu the enclosure were several places, the names 
of which may still be traced in some of the streets built on 
theii site, such as the Hotel de Puteymuce, and the buildings 
de Beautreillis, des Lyons , etc. This palace was abandoned by 
the kings oi trance lor the Palais des Tournellesj and, in the 
eailj part ol the 16th century, the buildings, falling into decay, 
were alienated by the crown, and sold. 

At the corner of the rue du Petit Muse, properly de Putey¬ 
muce, is a good specimen of the style of the age of Henry IV. 

In the rue St. Antoine, No. 216, is 

The Visitation, a small church built by F. Mansard, in 1632, 
for the Dames de la \ isitalion.—The dome is supported by four 
arches, between which are Corinthian pilasters crowned with 
a cornice, the entrance, elevated upon anestrade with lateral 
steps, is ornamented with two Corinthian columns. The inte¬ 
rior is richly adorned with scroll work, wreaths of Powers, etc., 
but contains no pictures. It now belongs to Protestants of the 
Calvinistic persuasion, and service is performed by the pastors 
ol the Oraloire in French, on Sundays and festivals, at 12‘/ 2 . 
the convent, destroyed during the Revolution, was very ex¬ 
tensive. 

Proceeding down the rue St. Antoine, the stranger will find, 
at No. 143, the 

Hotel de Sully.— This edifice is remarkable as the work of 
Ducerceau, and the residence of the celebrated minister whose 
name it bears. It is in good preservation, and its court, which 
is large, is richly adorned with sculpture. 

farther down, on the southern side of the same street, is 

St. Paul et St. Louis, 3d district church of 7th arrondisse- 
ment.—This church was begun in 1627, on the site of a chapel 
belonging to the adjoining convent of the Jesuits, founded by 
Cardinal de Bourbon in 1582. it was linished in 1641, and Car¬ 
dinal Richelieu performed the lirst mass in it in the presence 
ol Louis Xlli. and Ins court. The magnificent front, elevated 
on a flight of steps, is 144 feet in elevation, and 72 feet in 


NINTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 

breadth at the base; it is decorated with three ranges of Co¬ 
rinthian and Composite columns, with their interspaces richly 
ornamented. The lower range of columns is surmounted by a 
circular pediment, the attic range having a triangular one. A 
clock by Lory and two niches adorn the intervals of the middle 
range. This structure is to be noticed for the profusion of or¬ 
nament lavished on every part of its interior. It is cruciform, 
with chapels on each side of the nave, communicating with 
each other Over the cross of the church rises a lofty dome, in 
the pendentives of which are sculptured figures of the four 
evangehsts; and on the sides above, four figures in fresco of 
ema b ne > Clovis, Robert, and St. Louis. A rich cornice and 
s allery surmount the Corinthian pilasters which stand in front 

StStiST- Arched galleries run around the nave, fronted 
with balustrades, and the vaults of the chapels and nave are 

or-an ed an W / h i heavy s 1 croll - work * 0vei> the entrance is a fine 
or & an • and below, on brackets, St. Paul and St. Peter, in marble, 

Rev L olntinn re ‘i T , hlS ch ? rc . h was pi,Ia S ed of all its riches at the 
hiT o.i ; , 3 pro f uslon of raarble is st ill to be seen on the 

& altai and round the door-ways; the rails, too, which 

separate the high altar from the nave, are of black and red 
marble. In the eastern transept, is the tomb of Bourdaloue 
consisting of a black marble slab. On either side of the aUar 
are two plaster statues by Bra, representing St. Paul and St Pe- 
^ aisle will be remarked a fin? Holy Family a^d 
St. Louis bearing on a cushion the crown of thorns. Above 
a ^ e two paintings, representing the Agony in the 

G i i dCn ; t Y Delacr01x : and the Conversion of St. Paul in the 
s yle of Moise Valentin. In the western aisle there are two 
more paintings : Moses and the brazen serpent, and Louis XIII. 
offering to St. Louis the dedication of the church. In the nave 

beHa P sister ofv % Champa 8 ne > representing St. Isa- 

onthe walls of ihPr?’ ei>e 9re four fresca s, by Decaisne, 
ph„,.!li • n f l - choir > re P r esenting saints. Beyond the 

traRs ofthc S r CnSly ’ contain ; n S some S°od paintings, por¬ 
traits ol the successive cures of the church; and further on is 

nfrS e bvy 1 . e bruf , ‘ 1 ?’ endi " 8 in 3 Cil ' CU,ar reCess ' l ,ainied 

n tesco by Valbrun, and representing Christ calling the chil- 
excejfor beb,' 1 j, S ™ fl, ? lshed ’ a " d "ot otherwise remarkable 

to moisture »v a °np °" 3 Sr0Und rendered impenetrable 
to moisture by a new process invented by M. Cherot who also 

composed the colours for the purpose, the wall bein^ from 
its situation particularly subject to damp; it has notwithstand¬ 
ing had no effect on the picture itself. The architect of this 
magnificent church was Father Derrand a Jesuit 

By the Side ot St. Paul and St. Louis is the enu-ance to the 








ST. GERVAIS. 3$5 

College Royal de Charlemagne , 120, rue St. Antoine, the 
buildings of which formed the college of Jesuits founded in 1582. 
They are remarkable only for their great size, and are a pro¬ 
minent feature in the rue Charlemagne. The stranger should 
enter this street by the Passage Charlemagne, at No. 102, rue 
St. Antoine, which will lead him through the court of the 
Hotel de Jassaud, or d’Aguesseau, 22, rue Charlemagne, where 
local tradition places the site of a palace. An octagonal en¬ 
gaged tower of the time of Francis I. is still to be seen in a 
corner of the court, which has Ionic coupled pilasters running 
round, and some figures and ornaments indicate its former state. 

From this street the visitor will go into the rue du Figuier, 
at the southern corner of which is the 
Hotel de Sens, one of the most interesting remains of the 
middle ages extant iii France. It was erected in the 15th cen¬ 
tury, and formed part of the Hotel St. Paul. The gateway, 
flanked by two overhanging peaked turrets, has a finely-groin¬ 
ed roof. High up, to the left, the visitor will see an eight- 
pounder ball lodged in the old grey wall; underneath is “28th 
Juillet, 1830.” The windows are curious; and there is a re¬ 
markable turret in the south-western corner of the court. By 
ascending the tourelle here, the visitor will find, at door No. 1l, 
a curious narrow spiral staircase, leading to nearly the top of 
the highest turret. In many of the low-browed passages of the 
upper and lower floors of the building, are seen massive beams 
of oak. In the rue de FHotel de Ville, to the left, is another 
projecting turret, with quaintly-ornamented windows, and a 
walled-up Gothic archway. This hotel, a model of a noble 
mansion of the epoch of its erection, is still in good preservation. 

The rue de Jouy, which, at No. 9, contains a specimen of 
the architectural genius of Mansard in the Hotel d’Aumont, w ill 
lead the visitor by rues St. Antoine and Pourtour St. Gervais to 
St. Gervais, 2d district church of 9th arrondissement.—There 
is much difficulty in ascertaining the date of this church. An 
inscription, placed under the first arch on entering the northern 
aisle of the choir, states that it was dedicated in the year 1420; 
but this is at variance with the style of any part of the existing 
edifice, all the details and the general analogies of which show 
it to be of the 16th century. On the other hand, the date 1581, 
assigned for some enlargements that took place in that century, 
seems almost loo late. It is probable that the church was de¬ 
dicated before the walls were raised, that the building was 
afterwards suspended, and that it was resumed in the 16th 
century, according to the style of that epoch. Over the northern 
aisle of the choir rises a tower about 130 feet high, the lower 
part of which is of ancient, the upper of modern, construction; 

28 


326 NINTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 

the latter is excessively bold. The western front of St. Gervais 
was begun in 1(516, Louis XIII. laying the first stone. The lower 
range has coupled Doric columns, surmounted by a triangular 
pediment. Above is a range of coupled Ionic columns, having 
a Saxon window between them. The attic range is Corinthian, 
crowned with a circular pediment. All the columns are fluted. 
The rest of the church is Gothic, and cruciform, with single 
aisles entirely surrounding it; the transepts are not deep, and 
have galleries of a later dale erected in them. There is no 
triforium gallery, and the clerestory windows occupy the 
whole pointed arch. The mouldings are all open, and in many 
cases intersecting; while the tracery of most of the windows 
is of late date, and of feeble design. The imposts of the 
shafts and piers are in all cases discontinuous; the vaulting- 
ribs springing from the sides without capitals, and sometimes 
descending half way down, are complicated, and the ex¬ 
terior flying buttresses are double, having the lower arch 
surmounted by a series of smaller ones. Some of the cha¬ 
pels that surround the nave and choir communicate with each 
other by archways, and thus give the effect of a double aisle. 
Some fine pendant bosses will be remarked in the vaults of 
the transepts. The Chapelle des Trepasses contains a curious 
picture of the Deliverance of Souls from Purgatory at the in¬ 
tercession of St. Gervais; it is probably an Italian picture, of 
the 17th century, and has been copied for the Eglise St.Merri. 
In the Chapel of §le. Catherine is the statue of that saint by 
Courlot, in marble, and a painting, by Vibert, of the Virgin 
blessing France. The south transept forms the Chapel of the 
Holy Ghost; in it is a good altar-piece, of the Tongues of Fire, 
at the feast of Pentecost, also St. Ambroise refusing entrance to 
Theodosius, by Couder. In the following is a fine Ecce Homo, 
by Rouget, and Christ giving St. Peter the Keys, by Jonquieres! 
The second chapel is remarkable for a line Decapitation of St. 
John the Baptist, in the style ofGuercino. In the next chapel, 
of Ste. Genevieve, is a Jesus, witli Martha and Mary, by Phi¬ 
lippe de Champagne. This is an excellent picture. In the next, 
in a large and irregularly-shaped chapel, is the monument of 
Chancellor Letellier, a sarcophagus ot black marble, supported 
by while marble colossal heads. At the ends are beautiful 
full-sized figures of Religion and Fortitude; on the sarcophagus 
the chancellor reclines, with a genius weeping at his feel; it 
was erected shortly after his death in 1685. There is also a 
spirited plaster Descent from the Cross, and the Good Sama¬ 
ritan, painted by Forestier. The Lady chapel behind the apse 
of the choir is the most beautiful in Paris; the vaulting ribs of its 
roof unite in two different points; from the first of which they 


ST. GERVAIS. 327 

descend in a clustered pendant, and from the other in an ela¬ 
borate open-worked crown, a chef-d’oeuvre both in design and 
workmanship. Around it is an inscription, partly ancient, thus: 
parfaite en l 7 an 1417, peinte en 1842. The three front windows 
to the east are tilled with some very rich specimens of stained 
glass by the celebrated Pinaigrier, representing the histories of 
St. Anne and the Virgin; the two lateral ones are modern, of 
the manufacture of Choisy. A splendid Gothic altar of modern 
execution, adorned with a statue of the Virgin, and four small¬ 
er statues of the Evangelists, face the entrance. The decoration 
of the chapel is the conjoint work of Messrs. Ballard, architect, 
and Delorme, painter; 14 oil paintings on the walls are by the 
latter; those in the nave of the chapel represent the epochs of 
happiness of the Virgin’s life; the Annunciation, Visitation, 
Maternity, and Assumption; the last but one represents the 
Virgin eying with the strongest expression of maternal love 
the infant Jesus asleep before her, a very superior picture. In 
the sanctuary of the chapel are the eight Christian virtues, 
Resignation, Force, Repentance, Justice, Charity, Hope, Truth, 
and Humility. In the vestibule of the north-western entrance 
is a large painting by Heim, the Captivity of St. Peter; and an 
ancient sculptured marble shrine on the wall adjoining. In 
the next chapel is a colossal Mater Dolorosa in plaster, with 
two angels in prayer. Near the sacristy door is another large 
and line painting of the Deliverance from Purgatory by the 
intercession of the Virgin; and in the sacristy, a line Annuncia¬ 
tion. In the north transept is the Martyrdom of Ste. Juliette 
and her son St. Cyr, by Heim; also a picture by Albert Durer, 
of the nine sufferings of Christ, dated 1500; and in the next 
chapel of the nave, is Christ at the Ruler’s House, a good picture 
ol the French school. We may also remark the Martyrdom of 
Ste. Apolline in the same aisle. The altar of St. Philomenein the 
next chapel is remarkable for its architecture. In the Chapelle 
des Fonts is a well-executed model in wood of the western front 
of the church, serving as an altar-piece. This chapel has had the 
ribs of its groins recently painted and gilt; and in the window 
are St. John the Baptist and St. Nicholas in stained glass bearing 
the date 1620. Most of the windows indeed are valuable for 
similar decorations. Around the pulpit are statues .of the four 
Evangelists, of oak. There is a fine organ in this church, and the 
services are performed here with great solemnity. It is one of the 
most interesting churches of Paris; and Paul Scarron, husband 
ofMme. de Maintenon, Philippe de Champagne, with many 
other distinguished persons, were buried within its walls. (1) 

(l) Numerous lombs were uncovered in May 1847, during the progress 
of works executed to lower the soil of the rue Francois Miron, near 


328 NINTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 

From this a few steps will lead the visitor to the 

Hotel de Ville, Place de Greve.—The place where the 
corps de ville, or municipality of Paris, assembled under the 
first and second races of kings is not known. In the earliest 
reigns of the third race, their meetings were held in a house 
called la Maison de la Marchandise, situated in the Vallee de 
la Misere, west of the Grand Chfitelet. Under the name of 
Parlouer aux Bourgeois it was next removed to the neigh¬ 
bourhood of the Place St. Michel and rue St. Jacques. This 
proving insufficient in course of time, in 1527 the municipality 
purchased, for 2880 livres de Paris, the Maison de la Greve, or 
Maison aux Piliers, which had formerly belonged to Philip 
Augustus, and was frequently a royal residence. Upon the site 
of this and some neighbouring houses the Hotel de Ville was 
erected. The first stone was laid July 15, 1533, by Pierre de 
Viole, prevot des marchands, but the works were afterwards 
suspended, until 1549, when Dominic Boccadoro di Cortona, an 
Italian architect, presenting a new plan to Henry II., the build¬ 
ing was proceeded with. The key-stone of a vault in the left 
portico of the central court bears an inscription staling that 
Marinus de la Vallee undertook the continuation of it in 1606, 
and finished it in 1628. During the war of the Fronde, and still 
more during the Revolution, the edifice was much damaged, 
particularly in the ornamental parts } it was, however, pre¬ 
served from further dilapidation in 1801, by being converted 
into the seat of the prefecture, and was repaired by Molinos 
Other buildings were added to it, and the hospital and church 
of St. Esprit, with the church of St. Jean-en-Greve, were pulled 
down or incorporated in it —Exterior. The Hotel de Ville 
in 1628 consisted of a large building having its western 
front towards the Place de Greve, with two elevated pavilions 
at the northern and southern extremities, each flanked by a 
fine square overhanging tower; the other buildings enclosed 
a small court in the centre. The architecture displayed in this 
beautiful edifice is that which prevailed in Italy during the 16th 
century, and which is known in France as la Renaissance des 
Arts. Each pavilion is erected over a wide archway, one of 
which served as a street; a range of windows with pediments, 
between small Corinthian columns, lights the ground floor- 
above is a long range of plainer windows and canopied niches, 
while a rich balustrade surmounts the lofty roof pierced 
with dormer windows. In the centre of the roof rises a lur- 
reled belfry; and high chimneys flank the roofs of the main 

St. Gervais. Some of them were in plaster, and of the period of the 15th 
or 16th century, others in stone, and of a much more ancient date 
Amongst the latter the coffin of a woman is in perfect preservation. 



HOTEL DE VILLE. 329 

body and of the pavilions. At present this front, continued 
with the other new buildings in 1838 (the whole exterior, 
nearly four times as large as the old one, being finished in 
1841), (l) is increased by two main bodies more, flanked with 
pavilions, in keeping with the old portion, so as to form an 
immense isolated quadrangle, of the same style of architecture 
as the original throughout. The total expense of these build¬ 
ings, still partly unfinished, amounts to upwards of 14,860,000fr. 
The general feature displayed on the principal and the other 
fronts is the engaged Corinthian column, alternating with 
either windows or niches. In the former, facing the Place 
de Greve, are 28 statues, representing Frochot, Bailly, Tur¬ 
got, Lepee, Rollin, Mole, J. Aubry, Robert Estienne, Miron, 
G. Rude, Laillier, de Viole, Juvenal des Ursins, Sully, St. 
Landry, Aubriot, Boylaux, J. Goujon, P. Lescot, Goslin, Phi¬ 
libert Delorme, Vacquerie, Vincent de Paule, Lesueur, Lebrun, 
Mansard, Voyer d’Argenson, and Perronet. The ornaments 
are exquisitely sculptured, and its effect as a monument of the 
epoch is very grand. Over the smaller door-way in the centre 
is a bronze equestrian bas-relief of Henry IV., which replaces 
one destroyed during the Revolution; and in the centre of the 
roof is a valuable clock by Lepaute, which is lighted at night. 
The northern and southern facades are flanked by the extreme 
pavilions of the principal and eastern fronts, and display 14 en¬ 
gaged Corinthian columns each, with arched windows between. 
Above the attics are 12 allegorical statues on each side, repre¬ 
senting Justice, Commerce, etc. The eastern facade has four 
pavilions, the central body between adorned with 14 detached 
Corinthian columns. Here are 18 statues more along the attic; 
the two intermediate pavilions have noble entrances, the 
vestibules of which are Doric.— Courts. There are three in¬ 
terior courts; the central and most ancient one is approached 
from the western front by a flight of steps; an arched Ionic 
portico presenting some architectural irregularities, runs 
around it; in its centre is a fine full length bronze statue of 
Louis XIV., by Coysevox. The upper story has engaged Com¬ 
posite columns. Around the frieze of this court were marble 

(l) Count Rambuteau, in a late report to the municipality, notices, in 
terms of laudable pride, the rapidity with which the new buildings of 
the Hdtel de Ville were constructed, remarking that, while eighty years 
hardly sufficed to erect the old house, three were sufficient to terminate 
the new; and that, too, at a moment when other public works were in 
progress in all parts of the capital. It had been vaunted that the Hdtel 
des Invalides was finished in seven years by Louis XIV., a despotic 
sovereign, with the whole resources of the kingdom at his command, and 
at a lime when no workman dared to labour at any private building till 
the public (or rather royal) edifices were first supplied. 


330 NINTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 

tablets, inscribed with the principal events of the life of Louis XIV. 
from 1G59 to 1G89, and circular compartments in Ihe spandrils 
of the arches were charged wilh the bas-relief portraits of se¬ 
veral prevotsdes marchands, now effaced. The lucarnes of this 
court are very beautiful and light, and have lately been care¬ 
fully repaired. The western corners of the court are flanked 
by two engaged circular lowers ending in lucarnes similar to 
the rest. A staircase to the left descends into the northern 
court, which, as well as the southern one, is adorned with en¬ 
gaged columns of the Corinthian and Composite orders, resting 
upon pedestals. Opposite to the principal entrance a flight of 
steps descends into a spacious vestibule with four Doric columns 
around its centre, giving access likewise to the lateral courts. 
— Interior. From the last-mentioned vestibule two superb stair¬ 
cases, in the Palladian style, graced wilh Ionic columns sup¬ 
porting the arches, and enriched in every part with sculpture 
so gorgeous and complicated as to baffle description, extend 
right and left to the antechambers of the Salle de Danse, an 
immense saloon, embracing the whole length of the central body 
of the eastern facade, and receiving light from 13 lofty arched 
windows, each surmounted by a semicircular one. Detached 
Corinthian columns, fluted throughout, adorn the sides; the 
extremities open by three arches into recesses surmounted by 
the orchestras. Beyond these three folding doors communicate 
at either end with the two extreme saloons, adorned with Co¬ 
rinthian pilasters, and receiving access through the antecham¬ 
bers on the other side. The ceiling of the Salle de Danse is 
flat, divided into sculptured compartments, and coved around. 
The decoration, as far as can at present be ascertained, will 
consist in frescos on the spandrils between the arches inter¬ 
secting the coves, and in the gilding of the compartments of 
the ceiling, and the Corinthian capitals and bases of the co¬ 
lumns. The ceilings of the antechambers are flat, ending in 
cornices supported by consoles, between which are the heads of 
the Prevots des Marchands, ending with Trudaine, 1722. On 
the ground-floor, and occupying the same length, is the Salle 
St. Jean, with detached Doric columns fronting pilasters to 
match, and supporting an elliptical roof. Various chambers 
and corridors communicate with the courts and the pavilions, 
which are occupied by the octroi, municipal, and other public 
offices. Beturning to the central court, the visitor will ascend 
the southern staircase, with an elliptical vault sculptured in 
graceful compartments, and which will lead him to the landing- 
place on the lirst story, remarkable for a curiously ribbed 
vault, a monument of the age of Henry II. A similar one has 
been constructed on the landing-place of the second story 


HOTEL DE VILLE. 334 

and the style of the staircase lias been maintained up to the 
attic gallery on the 3d story, where the ceiling is in oaken 
compartments on a blue ground, entirely disagreeing with the 
taste of the edifice. The landing-place on the first story leads 
through a door opposite the staircase to the Salle des Huissiers, 
or Grande Salle, or Salle du Trdne, occupying the whole length 
of the central portion of the building, a most magnificent 
apartment. The fire-places are vast, and are ornamented with 
recumbent figures in white marble, of the same date as the 
staircase. At the northern extremity is a full-length picture of 
the present king. The ceiling, divided into square compart¬ 
ments, is adorned with armorial bearings and escutcheons. 
The most interesting recollections are connected with this fine 
monument of the 16th century, which from the time of its 
erection has witnessed many of the most important political 
acts of the revolutions with which France has been visited. 
The room where Robespierre held his council, and where he 
attempted to destroy himself, is shown, as well as the window 
where General Lafayette embraced Louis Philippe, and pre¬ 
sented him to the people in 1830. It is the central one of the 
Grande Salle, and is the same window from whence Louis XVI. 
spoke to the populace with the cap of liberty on his head. All 
the revolutions of France have been in some way associated 
with this historical room, or with the fatal “Place de Greve” 
beneath. Returning to the same landing-place, a corridor to 
the right of the staircase leads to the Salle du Conseil, an ele¬ 
gant chamber, 66 feet by 37, with blue and gold bangings. The 
44 members of the council hold their sittings here. From the 
same staircase, to the right on ascending, an Ionic gallery 
looking into the southern court leads to the landing-place of 
the principal staircase of the River front, having three flights 
of steps, supported by Ionic columns, and ornamented with 
bas-reliefs of MM. Debau and Rriou. It leads to the apartments 
of the Prefect. First is an antechamber with gilt leather hang¬ 
ings, in imitation of the furniture of Italy and Flanders of past 
centuries; in an aperture of the wall is a speaking-tube com¬ 
municating with the servants’ hall below. Next is the Salle 
d’Introduction; its frieze is painted in arabesques by Court, and 
is remarkable for a bronze statue by Bosio (1687) of Henry IV. 
in his youth, and an equestrian one of the same, a copy of that 
on the Pont Neuf, by Lemot (1818) likewise in bronze. Next 
comes the Salle de Jeu, adorned with blue silk bangings and a 
richly gilt and painted ceiling and frieze. Opposite the windows 
are two full-length portraits of the present king and queen, by 
Winterhalter. In the middle window is a model of the different 
strata found in digging the Artesian well of Grenelle, in the 


NINTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 


332 

proportion of 1 to 1000. This leads to the Salle de Bal, a mag¬ 
nificent saloon, 70 feet by 40, and 22 feet in height, trisected 
by two rows of three lofty arches each, and furnished in a 
style of the most luxurious splendour. (1) It is of the Corin¬ 
thian order, with gilt capitals and cornice; the central ceiling 
ornamented with a large allegorical painting by Hesse, repre¬ 
senting Paris surrounded by the Muses and the attributes of 
art; in the back-ground is an assembly of the most eminent 
men of France. In the first section of this splendid chamber 
the compartments of the ceiling are charged with the signs of 
the Zodiac, and allegories of Night and Day. The grounds of 
the arches of the doors are painted with medallions, severally 
representing Francis I. and Henry IV. The ceiling of the ex¬ 
treme section has the compartments of the ceiling painted with 
genii holding scrolls with the names of the most famous artists 
known; the medallions over the doors here contain Louis XIV. 
and Louis Philippe. The walls are painted in elaborate ara¬ 
besques, these and the other subjects mentioned being the work 
of Picol. Beyond the ball-room is that for refreshments, called 
the Salon de Cafe, a charming room, with a sculptured marble 
chimney-piece, and hung with yellow silk, embroidered in 
while. To it succeeds a spacious dining-room, with an orna¬ 
mented frieze, containing subjects appertaining to the chase, 
the fisheries, etc. Underneath are the spacious kitchens, suffi¬ 
cient to provide a banquet for a thousand guests. Much praise 
is due to the City architects, Messrs. Godde and Lesueur, who 
have united in this building all that is required for the conve¬ 
nience of the public offices, (2) with a suite of state apartments 
worthy of a royal residence. When the Hotel de Ville will be 
completed, it will contain upwards of 500 statues, busts, and 
medallions. For tickets to view the apartments address a letter 
to M. le Prdfet de la Seine at the Hotel de Ville. 

On the fourth story of the north-east side of the Hotel de 
Ville the Bibliotheque de la Ville has been established since 
June 18, 1847. It occupies three rooms, including the reading- 
room, and three galleries, the largest of which is 120 feet long. 
It is rich in scientific and commercial works; it possesses costly 
foreign publications, and works on the municipal history of 
the cities of France. The only manuscripts it contains are 300 
volumes of the registers of the parliament of Paris. The total 

(1) During the winter season the Prefect of the Seine gives about eight 
most splendid balls on Saturdays.- invitations are not of easy attainment 
except to foreigners of distinction, or to those who may be presented by 
theambassador, or introduced by some persons who arealready admitted. 

( 2 ) The public offices occupy 171 rooms. The number of clerks em¬ 
ployed is 418. 


PONT ROYAL. 


333 

number of volumes is above 60,000. The entrance is by the rue 
Lobau; it is open daily, from 10 to 3, except on holidays, and 
during the vacation from Aug. 15 to Oct. 1. 

The Place de Greye is celebrated as having been the scene 
of most of the public “deeds of blood” that have occurred in 
the capital. Its pavement has been stained with the blood of 
the victims of all revolutions, as well as of criminals who have 
fallen by the hand of justice : executions have of late, how¬ 
ever, been discontinued here. Great improvements in the archi¬ 
tectural appearance of this place have been effected by the ex¬ 
tension of the Hotel de Ville, the demolition of houses and 
widening of the quay. In the north-west corner of it may still 
be perceived one of those turrets formerly so numerous in 
Paris. 

The Pont d’Arcole, which leads from the Place de Greve to 
the lie de la Cite, is a small suspension toll-bridge for foot- 
passengers only. It was erected after the designs and under 
the direction of M. Duvergier, and was opened on the 21st of 
December, 1828. Its length is 106 yards, and its breadth 5. 
The chains pass over a small archway of masonry, erected in 
the middle of the river. This bridge was the scene of a san¬ 
guinary conflict between the Royal Guards and the people in 
1830. It derived its present name from a young man, who, 
heading the people in their advance upon it with a flag in his 
hand, was killed under the archway in the middle; and from 
his name being Arcole, added to the similarity of this trait of 
courage to one displayed by Napoleon at Areola, the present 
appellation arose. 


This being one of the most extensive arrondissements of 
the capital, and full of interesting objects, a division has been 
adopted which will be found convenient. All that part west 
of the rue du Bac will be described first. 

The visitor, after traversing the place du Carrousel, or the 
Gardens of the Tuileries, will pass over 
The Pont Royal, built in 1684 by an Italian Dominican friar 
named Frere liomain, who laid the foundations and erected 
the arches. The designs were by G. and J. H. Mansard. It con¬ 
sists of five semicircular arches, and is 432 feet in length by 52 
in breadth. This part of the river was formerly crossed by a 
ferry (bac), from which the rue du Bac derives its name. Upon 
one of the western piers is a scale divided into metres and de¬ 
cimetres, to show the height of the river. This bridge com- 



TENTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 


334 

mands a fine view of Paris, both up and down the course of 
the Seine. 

The first object that will strike the stranger, after leaving 
this bridge, will be the Hotel Praslin, a magnificent mansion 
with a terrace towards the quay, but having its entrance and 
front in the rue de Lille, No. 54. This is one of the largest and 
most sumptuous of the residences of the old nobility. Next to 
it is a large barrack for cavalry, formerly the Hotel des Gardes- 
du-Corps. It was built under the reign of Napoleon, and has 
the appearance of a factory. Beyond it is the 

Palais du Quai d’Orsay.— This magnificent edifice was begun 
during the administration of M. de Champagny, Duke de Ca- 
dore, in the time of Napoleon. It was not, however, continued 
till the beginning of 1830, when Charles X. intended it as a 
palace for the exhibition of the productions of French industry. 
The revolution suspended for a time its execution, which has 
at length been completed by M. Lecorday, under the direction 
of government. This edifice consists of a vast court, surrounded 
by four magnificent piles of building, and two wings, enclosing 
two smaller courts. Towards the river the grand front presents 
a long line of windows formed by 19 arches separated by en¬ 
gaged Tuscan columns, above which is a series of the Ionic 
order, and over this a mixed Corinthian attic, crowned with 
an elaborate battlement. The lower story is flanked at both 
ends by a balustraded platform laid out as a garden. An iron 
railing encloses this front. The front facing the rue de Lille 
differs from it only in being flanked with two pavilions, con¬ 
nected by a wing resting upon an arcaded ground story. The 
central court is surrounded by a double series of arcades with 
Doric and Ionic pilasters, and galleries above, the ceilings of 
which are painted to represent panelling in different kinds of 
wood richly gilt. There are four staircases, of Doric design, 
one at each corner of the court; that which is entered from a 
vestibule on the left is richly ornamented with sculptured 
ceilings, panelled walls, etc. This escalier d’honneur is magni¬ 
ficent in construction and splendid in decoration, but looks 
somewhat heavy upon the whole. In the principal court, be¬ 
low the galleries, the frieze is inlaid with various coloured 
marbles. The chief entrance is in the rue de Lille; the side 
courts have also gateways leading to the adjacent streets. The 
only part of the interior visible to the curious is the ground 
floor facing the river, appropriated to the council of stale. The 
stranger is first introduced into the Salle d’Attente, an elegant 
square apartment, in which four rich Doric columns with spiral 
flutes and cablings sustain a balustrade opening into a vesti¬ 
bule of the upper story, lit by a skylight. From this, the first 


PALAIS DU QUAI D’ORSAY. 335 

saloon worthy of notice is the Salle dxi Comitt du Commerce, 
containing a line view of the Port of Marseilles, painted in oil 
hy Isabey. Next comes the Salle du Comite da Contentieux, 
of the Corinthian order, remarkable for an elaborate ceiling, 
with tie and cross beams supported by gilt caryatides. Two 
large paintings, opposite the windows, represent, the tirst, 
Justinian, and the other Moses, by Marigny. On each side of 
the entrance are two more, the one, Solon dictating his laws, 
by Doin Papety, the other Nnma and Egeria, by Murat. An 
antechamber leads from hence to the Salle des Stances Admi- 
nistratives, a saloon of extraordinary splendor, decorated 
with 20 Corinthian columns, of white marble, with gilt capitals, 
and portraits of Turgot, Richelieu, Colbert, d’Aguesseau, Suger, 
Cambaceres, Sully, l’Hdpital, Portalis, and Vauban, by the 
best living masters. The coved ceiling is richly gill in compart¬ 
ments, and contains live emblematical paintings in large me¬ 
dallions, and two more in rectangular spaces. A recess between 
the central columns contains an immense monolith statue of 
white marble, representing Louis Philippe seated on the 
throne, by Jalay. Before it is the chair of the President, and 
the desks of the councillors are disposed around. Over the 
recess are painted two angels holding the Charter of 1830. In 
the tympans of the arches intersecting the coves, are 13 me¬ 
dallions, with portraits of Malhieu Dumas, Fourcrov, Boulay 
de la Meurthe, St. Jean d’Angely, Fermon, Bigot de Preame- 
neu, Cuvier, Jaubert, Treilhard, Dessoles, Merlin, Louis, and 
Mounier. The Salle du Comite de VInttrieur, remarkable for 
four Corinthian columns of granite, and otherwise similar to 
the Salle du Contentieux, contains portraits of Louis Philippe, 
by Signol, and Napoleon, by Flandrin, and gives access to the 
Salle du Comite de Legislation, in which is a painting by Gas- 
sies, representing the arrest of President Brisson in the time 
of the League. From hence the visitor proceeds through an¬ 
other salle d’altente, similar to the former, to the Salle des 
Seances Judiciaires, of Doric architecture, in which, besides a 
full-length picture of Louis Philippe, and the portraits of Count 
Simeon, and Gen. Allain, hy Lemaire, are three more paint¬ 
ings, two by Thomas, representing President Malhieu Mole paci¬ 
fying the Parisian people, and President Harlay attacked at 
Blois. The third painting, hy Delaroche, represents President 
Duranti of Toulouse assassinated in a convent where he had 
fled for safety. In the upper story is the Hall of Audience for 
the Court of Accounts, with a most elaborate ceiling of timber- 
work, a portrait of Louis Philippe, and others of lour of the 
most eminent Presidents of the Court. It will shortly receive 
three grand historical paintings, representing St. Louis esta- 


336 TENTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 

blishing the Cour des Comptes at Paris; the Cour des Comptes 
reinstated by Napoleon, and the Publication of the Report to 
the King. In the compartments of the ceiling are paintings 
representing the Arts, Sciences, and Agriculture. The prin¬ 
cipal staircase leading to this Chamber is receiving paintings 
by the hand of M. Chasseriau. The first floor, affording space 
for several apartments of vast size, is spoiled by a succession 
of moderately-sized dwelling-rooms, and the remainder of the 
building is cut up into small rooms, entresols, and cabinets. 
This edifice cost upwards of 12 millions. For permission to 
view the interior apply at the porter’s lodge between 3 and 
half-past 4 o’clock. 

The visitor will find to the west, in the rue de Lille, the 

Hotel de la Legion d’Honneur. —This edifice was built in 

1786, after the designs of Rousseau, for the Prince de Salm, 
whose name it bore. The entrance presents a triumphal arch 
flanked by double rows of Ionic columns on either side, and 
two figures of Fame, in bas-relief, occupy the spandrils. On 
the side of the arch are peristyles leading to pavilions forming 
the wings, the attics of which are adorned with bas-reliefs. 
A peristyle ornamented with Ionic columns and busts extends 
along the sides of the court to the principal front, which is 
decorated with six Corinthian columns, forming a portico, 
under which is the entrance to the vestibule. On the front is 
the inscription— honneur et patrie. In the centre of the front 
towards the Quai d’Orsay is a circular projection with columns, 
which support a balustrade crowned by six statues. The inte¬ 
rior is decorated with elegance, and the principal saloon, in 
the form of a rotunda, 40 feet in diameter, looks on the river. 
The Prince de Salm having been beheaded in 1793, his hotel 
was disposed of by lottery, and a journeyman hair-dresser 
obtained the winning number. In 1803 the hotel was devoted 
to its present purpose. It is inhabited by the Grand Chancellor 
of the Order. (See page 44.) 

The visitor will emerge from the rue de Lille, on the quay 
in front of the Chamber of Deputies, and the 

Pont de la Concorde.— Till the erection of this bridge the 
Faubourg St. Germain and the Faubourg St. Honore were not 
connected, except by the Pont Royal, and a ferry opposite the 
Hotel des Invalides. In 1786, the sum of 1,200,000 livres was 
appropriated, and the construction of the bridge, bemn in 

1787, was finished in 1790. It consists of five elliptical ^arches 
of unequal dimensions; the total length of the bridge is 461 
feet, its breadth is 61 feet. The piers are ornamented with 
three-quarter Doric columns and a cornice, above which the pa¬ 
rapet is formed by a balustrade, divided by plinths, on which 


PALAIS BOURBON AND CHAMBER OP DEPUTIES. 337 

were marble statues, now removed to Versailles. It is intended 
however, to adorn the plinths at the extremities with four co¬ 
lossal statues of Agriculture, Commerce, Industry, and Navi¬ 
gation. One of the piers bears a vertical scale of 29 y 2 feet. The 
architect ol this handsome bridge was Peronnel, already cele- 
l)i a ted lor the construction of the bridge of Neuilly; and part 
of the stone employed was obtained from the demolition of 
the Bastille. This bridge was originally called Pont Louis XVI. 
Irom the “ place ” opposite to which it was built; but in 1792 
it was named the Pont de la Revolution, for which appellation 
that of the Pont de la Concorde was substituted in 1800. At the 
Restoration it resumed its original name, which was again 
changed in 1830. The stranger may now proceed to the 
Palais Bourbon and Chamber of Deputies.-— It was erected 
in 1/22, by Louise brangoise Duchess-dowager of Bourbon, 
aflei the designs of Cirardini, an Italian architect, and continued 
by Mansard. On coining into the possession of the Prince de 
Conde, it was considerably enlarged, at a cost of 20 millions of 
francs, but not completely terminated when the Revolution 
broke out in 1789. The Palais Bourbon was one of the first 
mansions plundered, and remained unoccupied till 1795, when 
it was chosen for the sittings of the Council of Five Hundred. 
r Ihe pavilion opposite the bridge was selected as the hall of 
council, and the rest appropriated as a residence for the presi¬ 
dent. It was afterwards occupied by the Corps Legislatif. On 
the Restoration, in 1814, the Prince de Conde took possession 
of the palace, and entered into an arrangement, by which that 
portion which had been occupied by the legislative body, and 
which had been in great part rebuilt, was appropriated to the 
use of the Deputies, and in 1829 a law was passed authorising 
its purchase for 5,500,000 fr. (l) On the melancholy death of 
the Duke de Bourbon, in 1830, (2) this palace devolved by will 
to the Duke d’Aumale; and that part used by the Duke de 
Bourbon as a residence was leased to the Chamber of Deputies 
as an official residence for their president; but by a recent 
negotiation the whole has been ceded to the country for the 

Cl) M. Joly, architect of the Chamber of Deputies, has published a 
volume on the Palais Bourbon, its description, history, and changes. 
He gives the following table of sums expended on it:—From 1722 
to 1778, 16,361,246 fr.; An III. to An VI., 1 , 023,796 fr.; 1807 to 1810 , 
1,759,062 fr.; 1829 (temporary chamber), 213,242 fr.; 1829 to 1840, 
4,885,047 fr.; total, independent of subsequent outlay,24,243, 393 fr. 

(2) The duke was found, on the 27th August, 1830 , suspended by his 
cravat from the holt of a window of his bed-room, at the Chateau de 
St. Leu, and from his age, 74, and the weak state of health in which he 
was at the time, it was considered improbable that he could have ac¬ 
complished his own destruction. 


29 


338 TENTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 

use of the Chamber. This portion is composed of a pavilion 
only one story high, which was formerly called the Hotel Las- 
say, and was annexed to the original building after it became 
the properly of the Conde family. The entrance is by the rue 
de l’Universite, No. 118, from whence it is approached by a 
long avenue, terminating in an ample court. Attached to this 
is a large pile of various buildings, containing the offices, com¬ 
mittee-rooms, etc., of the Deputies. The apartments of the 
Duke de Bourbon now no longer exist in their former state; a 
story has been added for the better accommodation of the pre¬ 
sident, and the works of art it contained have been partly 
transported to Versailles, and the remainder adorn the villas of 
the Duke d’Aumale.— Exterior. The principal entrance is in 
the Place Bourbon. The gateway crosses a portico of Corin¬ 
thian columns occupying nearly the whole side of the square; 
the entablature is crowned with a balustrade interrupted by 
the arch of the entrance, which leads into a spacious court, 
enclosed by plain but tasteful buildings east and west. In front, 
two lateral pavilions with columns resting on a basement flank 
the principal body, in the centre of which is the principal en¬ 
trance under a projecting portico of four Corinthian columns 
supporting a pediment, and receiving access by circular rising 
carriage-ways on either side. The intermediate wings have 
three arches on each side. The architecture of the whole is 
excellent. The ornaments and escutcheons which marked it 
as the residence of the descendants of the Grand Conde were 
destroyed at the Revolution. The northern facade was built 
by Poyet, in 1804 ; it is nearly 100 feet broad, is composed of 
12 Corinthian columns, and is approached by a flight of 29 
steps. Above is a pediment filled with an allegorical bas-relief 
sculptured by M. Cortot. The froiiton is 95 feet long, and 17 
feet high at the vertex. In the middle of this composition is a 
figure of France, 14 feet high, standing on a tribune, her right 
hand on the Charter; at her sides are Force and Justice; to the 
left is a group of figures personifying Navigation, the Navy, the 
Army, Industry, Peace, and Eloquence; on the right, are Com¬ 
merce, Agriculture, Eloquence, the Arts, and the rivers Seine 
and Marne. This composition is finely grouped and sculptured; 
the attitudes of the figures are easy and graceful. On the west 
of the portico is a bas-relief by Rudde, on the east one by 
Pradier. At the foot of the steps, on pedestals, 18 feet in ele¬ 
vation, are colossal statues of Justice and Prudence; and in the 
foreground are figures of Sully, Colbert, lTIopital, and d’Agues- 
seau. These are separated from the street by a handsome 
railing.— Interior. The visitor enters, by a side door on the 
west of the portico, into the Salle des Quatre Colonnes, of Co- 


PALAIS BOURBON AND CHAMBER OF DEPUTIES, 339 

rinthian architecture, with niches and statues, which leads to 
the Salle de la Paix, ornamented with a Laocoon a Virginius 
and a slalue of Minerva in bronze. M. Horace Vernet has be¬ 
gun to paint the ceiling of this hall, and has finished Hie coves 
surrounding the fiat rectangular solfit, separated from them 
by a richly gilt band. In the centre of each side are repre¬ 
sented in fresco allegories of Science, Industry, the Fine Arts 
and Agriculture. The first and third of these subjects partly 
intercept views in the back-ground, of the exterior of the 
Chamber of Deputies, the balustrades lined with the public 
saluting the king at the opening and close of the session - this 
however is only to be guessed by the attitudes, as the cortege 
is concealed from view by the balustrade of the foreground 
where Deputies and Peers are represented turning their atten¬ 
tion to the same object. From this hall a door, reserved for the 
Deputies, leads to the Chamber; by another we pass to a cor¬ 
ridor leading to the Peristyle du Roi , containing the principal 
entrance, and adorned with Corinthian columns. Here are 
maible statues of Louis Philippe, by Jacjuot; Casimir Perier 
by Duret; Bailly and Mirabeau, by Jalay ; and Foy, by Despretz! 
Over the entrance, and the opposite door, leading to the 
Chamber, are fine bas-reliefs by Triqueti. To the west of this 
peristyle is the Salle du Trone, painted in fresco by Delacroix 
where the King receives the Deputies previous to his entering 
the Chamber. The frescos represent the Rhine, Rhone, Seined 
Garonne, Sadne and Loire, the Ocean, and the Mediterranean! 
The furniture is costly. Opposite is the Salle des Distributions * 
where the Deputies receive the printed reports of committees, 
motions of the Chamber, etc. The ceiling of this saloon, pierced 
with a skylight, is painted in grisaille by Abel de Pujol, and 
represents in different compartments the Salic Law, the Capi- 
lulaires of Charlemagne, the Edict of Nantes, and the Charter 
of 1830, in allegorical figures. The Chamber itself is a semi¬ 
circular hall, ornamented with 24 columns of single blocks of 
while marble of the Ionic order, having capitals of bronze gilt. 
The president’s , chair and the tribune form the centre oHhe 
axis of the semi-circle, around which rise in gradation 500 seats 
(the number of Deputies is, however, only 459), to the height 
of the basement which supports the columns. The whole is 
fitted up in crimson velvet and gold. Over the president’s chair 
upon the wall which faces the assembly, is a large paintin", 
by Court, representing Louis Philippe swearing to the Charter 
in the Chamber of Deputies on the 9lh of August 1830. In the 
intercolumnialions are placed statues of Order and Liberty, by 
Pradier, under which are bas-reliefs; that on the right of the 
chair, by Ramey, representing the presentation of the Charter 


3^0 TENTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 

lo Louis Philippe by Casimir Perier; the other, by Petitot, re¬ 
presents him distributing the standards to the Garde Nationale; 
and above the entablature are statues by Allier, Fovatier, Du¬ 
mont, and Despres, of Reason, Justice, Prudence, and Eloquence. 
On the tribune is a bas-relief, by Lemot, representing Fame and 
History, standing before a double plinth adorned with the 
head of Janus in a medallion. A spacious double gallery, ca¬ 
pable of containing 600 persons, runs round the semicircular 
part of the Chamber, and is fitted up with tribunes for the 
Royal Family, the corps diplomatique, officers of slate, and the 
public. The semi-cupola of the hall is ornamented with ara¬ 
besques, by Fragonard ; it has a horizontal shifting glazed light 
large enough to admit the descent of the chandelier ready 
lghted into the Chamber. A second glazed roof protects the 
whole from the weather. Each deputy has a fixed desk in front 
ot himi: half of the lower bench is reserved for the ministers. 
Immediately under the tribune are two small desks, for the 
reporters of the official journal, the Moniteur, who relieve 
each other in taking notes of the debate, and who have besides 
a room in which to arrange their reports. The reporters of 
the other journals are accommodated, but not so well, in one 
of the galleries, above the clock opposite to the chair. A de¬ 
puty when addressing the Chamber at any length, does not 
speak from his place, but ascends the tribune, and frequently 
recces his speech from paper. The place of each deputy is 
marked at the beginning of the session, and he retains it till 
the end At the opening and close of the session a throne oc¬ 
cupies the place of the chair and tribune. The Salle des Con¬ 
ferences has been recently painted by Heim: on one side is 
represented Louis le Gros, attended by his Ministers, the Abbe 
Seguier and the Garlands, presiding at an assembly of bishops 
counts and barons, occupied in drawing up the ordinances fo^ 
the enfranchisement of the Commons in tl36 : on the other is 
Louis XII., presiding at one of the first sittings of the Cour des 
Comptes. In the latter the artist has availed himself of a mi¬ 
niature of that time, which enabled him to represent the scene 
with great fidelity. At the extremities of the salle are pictures 
en rond, one representing Charlemagne, surrounded by the 
prmces and nobles of France, causing to be read to the people 
his Capitulaires, which served as the basis of French legis- 
atmn. 1 he other represents the people applauding St. Louis for 
the public regulations he instituted previous to his departure 
for Africa. The visitor will also remark the fine figures of 
Prudence, Justice, Vigilance, and Force, and the medallions in 
grisaille, containing portraits of Suger, l’Hopital, Sully, Colbert 
Montesquieu, etc.; also the figures at the angles, representing 






PALAIS BOURBON AND CHAMBER OF DEPUTIES. 341 

Agriculture, the Arts, Sciences, Industry, Commerce, Marine, 
Peace, and War. In escutcheons are “ Code Napoleon” and 
“Charte de 1830.” This Saloon also contains a tine statue of 
Henry IV., and is decorated with flags taken from the Austrians 
during the Empire. A new painting, by Vinchon, has lately 
been added, the subject of which is Philip IV. opening the 
States General. There is a beautiful chimney in white marble 
ornamented with sculpture by Moine, and a picture of Presi¬ 
dent Mole, by Vincent; others are to be added. Attached to 
this suite of apartments is the Library of the Deputies, consist¬ 
ing of about GO,000 volumes. This collection, which, besides 
comprising all the documents relative to the legislature of 
France, contains a valuable series of historical works, some of 
great rarity, is celebrated for possessing the original MSS. of 
the Nouvelle Heloise, and the Confessions, of Rousseau. It is 
enriched by the complete series of Parliamentary Reports, Pa¬ 
pers, etc., published by order of the House of Commons. A 
periodical interchange of papers takes place between the Com¬ 
mons of France and England. The Library is a very handsome 
long gallery, with a richly-vaulted ceiling, painted by Eugene 
Delacroix, with subjects of ancient history, and is fitted up 
with great elegance and commodiousness. To obtain admission 
to consult the books, a request must be addressed to one of 
the Questors of the Chamber of Deputies. The permission is, 
however, rarely obtained without peculiar recommendations. 
To visit the Chamber no formality is requisite beyond demand¬ 
ing permission at the door; but to hear the debates, a ticket 
should be obtained from a Deputy, or a letter, post paid, ad¬ 
dressed, to M. le Questeur de la Cham,ire des Ddpute's, who will 
send a ticket. Generally, however, when the debate is not one 
of extraordinary interest, the door-keepers will contrive to 
give admission to strangers. There are besides always a num¬ 
ber of men forming a queue as at the theatres, who will give 
their places for 1 or 2 francs, according to the expected im¬ 
portance of the debate. (1) 

South of the Palais Bourbon is the “Place” of the same name, 
remarkable only for the colonnade of the palace. In the middle 
is a pedestal, on which a statue of Louis XVIII. formerly stood. 

The stranger should now proceed westward, by the rue de 
PUniversite, where he will see the new hotel of the President 

(l) It appears, from a statistical table, that the present Chamber in¬ 
cludes among its members 86 administrators, 70 magistrates, 65 lawyers 
holding places under government, 6i officers of the army and navy, 
53 mayors, 36 merchants and manufacturers, 24 literary men and artists, 
and 8 medical men. 


342 TENTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 

of the Chamber of Deputies, as also that of the Ministry for 
Foreign Affairs, both erected on part of the ground of the gar¬ 
dens of the Palais Bourbon, till he reaches the Esplanade and 
Hotel des Invalides.— Previous to the reign of Henry IV., 
old and disabled soldiers had no other resources in France 
than the charity of the monastic establishments of royal foun¬ 
dation to depend on for their support; but in 1596, that king 
formed an asylum for military invalids in an old convent in the 
Faubourg St. Marcel. This institution was removed to the cha¬ 
teau de Bicelre, by Louis XIII., but for want of funds did not 
receive any augmentation. In 1670, during the administration 
of Louvois, Louis XIV., by whose wars the number of invalids 
was greatly augmented, determined to found a magnificent 
establishment to receive them. The foundations were laid in 
1670, and the main building, as well as the first church, were 
finished about 1706, by Bruant. The second church, surmounted 
by the dome, built by Mansard, and finished in 1706, was 
destined for the celebration of festivals and military anniver¬ 
saries. Several additions were made at various times to the 
buildings of the hotel; and the whole edifice now covers 16 
acres of ground, enclosing 15 courts. Under the reigns of 
Louis X\. and Louis XVI., the number of invalids was small, 
but the institution maintained its dignity and privileges. At the 
Revolution it look the name of Temple de VHumanite; and 
during the turbulence of that period was always respected. 
Under Napoleon it was called Temple de Mars , anil the number 
of its inmates was frightfully augmented. At the Restoration the 
hotel resumed its original title. This magnificent institution is 
under the direction of the Minister of War. The governor is 
generally the senior marshal of France : under him there are 
a lieutenant-general, commandant of the hotel; a colonel-major, 
three adjutant-majors, and three sub-adjutant-majors, who 
direct the administration of the establishment; one almoner, 
two chaplains, one head physician, one head surgeon, one head 
pharmacian, and 10 assistants; 26 Sisters of Charity, and 260 
servants of all kinds. The Hotel is divided into 14 sections, 
each of which has a chef , who may even be of an inferior rank 
to an officer belonging to his division. Every chef has an adju¬ 
tant and sub-adjutant. The number of officers is about 170. The 
governing officers are well paid and lodged. The governor has 
40,000 fr. per annum; the general-commandant, 15,000 fr.; 
the intendant, 12,000 fr., and the colonel-major, 7000 fr. All 
soldiers who are actually disabled by their wounds, or who 
have served 30 years, and obtained a pension, are entitled to 
the privileges of this institution. The whole of the invalids, 
whether soldiers or officers, are boarded, lodged, clothed, etc’. 


HOTEL 1)ES INVALIDED. 343 

The service of the oflicers is of plate, the gift ot Maria Louisa; 
the hour of breakfast is >/ 2 past 10 , and of dinner, 5. The sub- 
officers and privates are divided into three parties, viz., 1st 
party, breakfast 8 l / 3 , dinner 4; 2d party, breakfast 9, dinner 
4 ‘A; 3rd party, breakfast 10, dinner 5 : soup is served early in 
the morning besides. The soldiers have for breakfast, soup, 
beef, and a dish of vegetables; for dinner, meat, vegetables^ 
and cheese. At each repast about half a pound of meat is serv¬ 
ed to each man, who also receives a litre of wine and 1 'A pound 
of white bread daily; the wine and bread are of the same qua¬ 
lity for all ranks ot oflicers and men, but the officers have an 
extra dish allowed. There are six grand repasts annually, 
when choicer wine and food are provided—on the birthday of 
the sovereign; on the 30th July, in commemoration of the Revo¬ 
lution ; on Ascension and Assumption days, Christmas, and on 
twelfth-day, when a cake of 6 lb. is given to each mess of 12 pen¬ 
sioners. Each man has his bed, straw mattress, wool mattress, and 
bolster, with a press for his clothes. Strangers are strongly re¬ 
commended to visit the Invalides at meal-time, to witness the 
great order, cleanliness, and comfort that prevail. In the dis¬ 
tribution of meat, wine, and clothing, if any 'person does not 
consume his allowance, he may receive an equivalent in mo¬ 
ney ; and persons deprived of legs are allowed money instead 
of shoes. The pay of the invalids is according to the following 
scale per month private soldier, 2 fr,; corporal, 3 fr.;sergeant, 
4 fr.; sergeant-major, 5 fr.; adjutant sub-officer, G fr.;sub-lieute¬ 
nant, 7 fr.; lieutenant, 8 fr.; captain, 10 fr.; chef-de-bataillon, 
20 fr.; lieutenant-colonel, 25 fr.; colonel, 30 fr. The hotel will 
hold 5,000 invalids ; at present it has only 3,000 inmates. They all 
wear the same uniform, and whenever the king comes within 
the walls, they have the privilege of guarding his person ex¬ 
clusively; their only ordinary duty, conformably with their 
own request, is to mount guard in the establishment, the hotel 
and its dependencies. 

Hotel .—The hotel is approached by an esplanade planted 
with trees, which extends from the quay on the banks of the 
Seine, to the iron gate of the outer garden, with its bossaged 
piers, and measures 1440 feet by 780. It was planted in 1750, 
and replanted in 1818. At one third of the avenue which tra¬ 
verses it is a circular space, in which stood a fountain, orna¬ 
mented with the celebrated bronze lion brought from the 
place St. Mark, at Venice, but restored in 1815. To that suc¬ 
ceeded a pedestal with a bust of Lafayette, and an equestrian 
statue of Napoleon, by Marochelti, will now be placed here. 
Before the northern front is a wide terrace laid out as a gar¬ 
den, and bounded by a fosse; on it are placed some fine bronze 


' 344 TENTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 

cannon, the fruits of former victories. Among them some Prus¬ 
sian guns, highly ornamented, are well deserving of inspec¬ 
tion; and near them will be found pieces of artillery captured 
at Algiers, Constantina, and Antwerp. The front of the hotel 
is 612 feet in length ; it is divided into four stories, and pre¬ 
sents three pavilions. The central one is decorated with Ionic 
pilasters, supporting an arch, ornamented with military tro¬ 
phies, in which is a bas-relief of Louis XIV. on horseback, 
sculptured by Coustou, jun., and restored in 1816 by Cartelier, 
On the pedestal is the following inscription :— 

Ludovicus Magnus, militibus regali munilicentia in perpetuum providens 
Has aedes posuit An. M.DC.LXXV. 

Statues of Mars and Minerva in bronze, by Conslou, jun., adorn 
the entrance, and four more, representing vanquished nations, 
are placed at the corners of the extreme pavilions, the trian¬ 
gular pediments of which are also adorned with military tro¬ 
phies, resting upon attics. Their roofs are crowned by square 
terraces surrounded with balconies. In 1800, the four bronze 
figures, by Desjardins, which adorned the statue of Louis XIV. 
in the Place des Victoires, were placed at the angles of these 
pavilions. The figures are 12 feet high, and represent nations 
conquered by France. The lucarne windows of this front are 
very remarkable; they are formed of military trophies in stone, 
each consisting of a cuirass, in which is the window, sur¬ 
mounted by a helmet and hung with a mantle, the whole 
looking like a row of gigantic knights defending from above 
the approaches of the place. The western front in the Cour de 
1’Amitie resembles this in its general design. The principal front 
has two lateral gateways, and a central one leading into the 
CourRoyale, which is 315 feet long, 192 feet broad, and is 
entered by a spacious and elegant vestibule adorned with Ionic 
columns. It is surrounded by four piles of building, with central 
projections, and pavilions at the angles. Each pile is decorated 
with two ranges of arcades, crowned by an entablature, and 
by lucarne windows ornamented with military trophies. At 
each angle is a group of horses treading the attributes of war 
beneath their feet. The arcades enclose spacious galleries, the 
upper one adorned with balustrades. The central projection of 
the southern side forms the portico of the church, bearing in 
front a statue of Napoleon. Its design consists in a colonnade 
of four couples of Ionic columns, supporting the same number 
of Corinthian ones, surmounted by a pediment containing a 
clock, supported by statues of Time and Study, and crowned 
by a campanile terminated by a cross. The clock was placed 
here in 1781, and is by Lepaute. The wiDgs on the right and 


HOTEL DES INVALIDES. 345 

left of the front are occupied by the governor, his staff, the. 
physicians and surgeons. 

library .—The library, founded by Napoleon, containing 
about 17,000 volumes, occupies the first floor of the central 
pavilion of the northern front. It consists of works on theology, 
jurisprudence, belles-lettres, and strategy, and possesses ma¬ 
nuscripts of Sully and Colbert, a fine picture of Napoleon as¬ 
cending Mont St. Bernard, and a portrait of his Majesty Louis 
Philippe swearing to observe the charter; it also contains a 
model of the Hotel itself in its present state. It is open from 
9 to 3 daily, except on Sundays and festivals. Strangers, how¬ 
ever, are not admitted to consult the books unless provided with 
a permission from the bureau. 

Council-Chamber .—This is in the passage west of the library 
on the same floor. The visitor first enters the Salle d’Atlente, 
containing portraits of Marshals Bessiere, Sucliet, Perignon, 
• Augereau, Kellermann, de Broglie, Bernonville, Due de Bellisle, 
d’Espagnac, Lannes, Gouvion St. Cyr, Massena, Clarke, Moncey, 
Laurislon, Ney, Brune, Lefebvre, Davoust, and Berthier. Next 
is the Council-Chamber itself, containing portraits of the Go¬ 
vernors of the Hotel des Invalides, viz. Lemacon, Panat, Gui- 
bert, Sombreuil, who was guillotined during the Revolution, 
Berruyer, Marschal Serrurier, Duke de Coigny, Latour Mau- 
bourg, Jourdan, and Letellier. All these are by Yannier. There 
are besides two marble busts, one of Napoleon by Bosio, the 
other of Louis Philippe by Dumont; then a full-length portrait 
of Louis XIV. by Rigault, and another of Napoleon by Ingres. 
Over the door are two medallions, by Vannier, with portraits 
of Mansard, and Bruant, the architect of the Hotel. 

Dormitories .—These are on the first and second stories, and 
consist of eight spacious rooms, called the Salle de Louvois, 
d’HautpouIt, de Luxembourg, de Mars, d’Assas, de Latour d’Au- 
vergne, de Bayard, de Kleber. These dormitories are remark¬ 
able for their extent, order, and cleanliness, and contain each 
from 50 to 55 beds. The other sleeping-rooms contain each 
from four to eight beds. The infirmaries are on an extensive 
scale, well aired, etc. 

Refectories and Kitchens .—In the piles of building to the 
right and left, on entering the Cour Royale, are four grand 
refectories, or dining-rooms. Each of them is 150 feet in length 
by 24 in breadth. One is devoted to the officers, and the three 
others to the sub-officers and privates. These refectories are 
ornamented with indifferent paintings in fresco, representing 
different fortified towns and places in Flanders, Holland, Alsace, 
Tranche Comte, Burgundy, etc., conquered by Louis XIV. 
They contain each 30 round tables, for messes of 12. The 


340 TENTH AhttONDISSEMENT. 

kitchens are two in number, and are situated behind the refec¬ 
tories on the left. One serves for the officers, the other for the 
privates. Adjoining them is the larder. More Ilian 1500 pounds 
of meat are boiled each day, and a similar quantity is used for 
ragouts; 60 bushels of vegetables are consumed daily. The 
meat and vegetables are cooked by patent furnaces, each of 
which heats eight coppers. There are besides two coppers, 
each of which will dress 1200 lb. of meat, and a spit that roasts 
4001b. of meat at a time. 

Church .—Properly speaking, there are at present two 
churches, but which, in consequence of the works in progress, 
will soon form but one. A temporary screen separates the first 
body from the other, though externally they form but one 
building. The first, which at present is the only one accessible 
to visitors, and called VEglise ancienne, consists of a long nave, 
and two low aisles, supporting a gallery which appears behind' 
the arches of the central part of the church. It is 66 feet in 
height, and about 210 feel in length. The piers of the arches 
are fronted by Corinthian pilasters, which support a bold 
entablature, above which a line of arched windows throws 
light upon the banners that are thickly ranged along both sides 
of the nave. They are principally African trophies. (1) In the 
time of Napoleon nearly 3,000 flags filled the nave; but on the 
evening before the entry of the allied armies into Paris, March 
31, 1814, the Duke de Feltre, Minister of War, by order of Jo¬ 
seph Bonaparte, commanded them to be burnt, and the sword 
of Frederick the Great, which was preserved here, to be broken. 
The orders to that effect were given thrice before they were 
obeyed. Most of the piers of the nave are adorned with monu¬ 
mental inscriptions in marble, viz. of Count deGuibert, governor 
of the hotel, who died in 1786; of the Duke de Coigny, who 
died in 1821; of Marshal Jourdan, who died in 1838; of Marshal 
Moncey, who died in 1842; and of Marshal Lobau, who died 
in 1838. Two bronze tablets are besides inscribed with other 
names, amongst which are those of Marshal Mortier, killed in 
1835 by the infernal machine of Fieschi, and of Marshal Dam- 
remont, wtio died before Constantine in 1837. Governors 
dying while holding office are alone allowed to be buried 
under the nave, and to have monuments erected in the 
chui ch. 1 lie pulpit is of while marble with gold ornaments 
and bronze bas-reliefs of scriptural subjects. Opposite to it 
is a new chapel of the Virgin. The organ is very fine, and the 
clock indicates the hours by a band revolving round the top 
of the central pile of pipes. A portion of the nave, railed off 

0) Amongst them will be remarked the parasol of command and 
colours taken from Morocco in 1844. 


h6tel des UVvalidES. 347 

by a fence of polished iron and brass, forms the choir. The 
high altar, covered with a canopy, supported by Corinthian 
pillars, is of wood and bronze gilt; and being placed at the 
point of junction of the two churches, it serves for both. The 
second church, or Dome as it is called, is built at the southern 
end ol the first church, and is altogether detached from the 
rest of the edifice. It consists of a circular tower, surmounted 
by a dome, rising out of a square mass of building, 138 feet 
in length, which forms the body of the church. This latter 
part is divided into two stories, and in the centre of each 
front is a projecting mass, crowned with a pediment. That 
ol the southern front, which serves as a portico and principal 
entrance to the church, is composed of two rows of columns, 
the lower ot the Doric order, the Upper of the Corinthian. On 
each side of the portico is a niche containing statues of St. 
Louis and Charlemagne. Allegorical figures are also placed 
in front ol the pilasters of the upper story. The upper dome 
is outwardly surrounded by 40 composite columns arranged in 
pairs; and at the four points corresponding to the angles of 
the lower stories are projecting buttresses. An attic crowned 
with a balustrade, and adorned with arched windows, rises 
from the tower, from within which springs the dome; its sur¬ 
face is divided by 12 gilt ribs into as many compartments, each 
occupied by projecting devices of trophies, arms, etc., also 
gilt. From the summit of the dome rises a lantern, surmount¬ 
ed by a gilt spire, globe, and cross. The external appearance 
of the dome, and of this part of the edifice, is very fine, and is 
best viewed from the Place Vauban, on the southern side. The 
total height from the ground to the top of the cross is 323 feet. 
In the interior, the dome is supported by four large masses, 
arched at the base, so as to afford from the Centre a view of 
four round chapels. The pilasters as well as the eight Corin¬ 
thian columns in front of these masses are executed with great 
perfection. The columns on each side of the entrances to 
these chapels support on their entablature four galleries with 
gilt balustrades, and the architecture of the building is in all 
parts ornamented with fleurs-de-lis and the initials of the 
founder. The Dome is connected with the first church by the 
arch under which the high altar stands. The entire pavement 
is formed of marble, inlaid with lilies and cyphers, the arms 
of France, and the cordon of the order of the Holy Ghost. The 
high altar, which was destroyed at the Revolution, lias been 
restored under the direction of Roischard. It presents a front 
to each church, and stands in the midst of six columns, spirally 
entwined with bands of vine-leaves and ears of corn. Upon 
their entablature are six angoJs, by Marin, eight feet in height. 


348 TENTH ARRONHISSEMENT. 

supporting a canopy, or holding censers. The chapels of the 
Dome are six in number; two of them, with the great porch 
and the sanctuary, form the cross; the others are at the angles. 
The latter, similarly constructed and ornamented, are ascended 
by seven marble steps. Their height is about 74 feet by 36 in 
diameter, and they are adorned with Corinthian pilasters, 
bearing entablatures richly ornamented; the compartments of 
the attic and dome are painted, and represent the acts and 
apotheosis of their patron. The first chapel to the right, on 
entering by the great door, is dedicated to St. Augustin, and 
was painted by Louis Boullongne. The next in order, forming 
one of the branches of the cross, is dedicated to the Virgin, and 
contains a fine monument to Vauban. The third is that of St. 
Ambroise, and was painted by Boullongne. That on the western 
side of the altar is the chapel of St. Gregory, the paintings of 
which are by Michael Corneille. Next comes the chapel of St. 
Theresa, forming the western arm of the cross, and occupied 
by a fine monument to Turenne, by Lebrun, which formerly 
stood in the church of St. Denis. The last chapel, in the south¬ 
west corner, dedicaded to St. Jerome, was painted by Bon 
Boullongne, and was the temporary receptacle for the body 
of Napoleon, brought from St. Helena in 1840, and placed in 
the church on the 15th December following, with a funereal 
pomp of which there is no parallel in modern times. Over the 
sarcophagus was laid the sword bequeathed by the Emperor’s 
will to General Bertrand, and the hat worn by him at Eylau, 
which he gave to Baron Gros while painting his portrait for 
the large battle-piece now in the Louvre, (l) In all the chapels 
of the Dome will be found bas-reliefs and sculptured compart¬ 
ments of much merit. The entire ceiling of the grand sanctuary 
is painted or gilt. Two magnificent productions of Noel Coypel 
first attract attention. The upper represents the Trinity, with 
angels in adoration; the second the Assumption of the Virgin. 
The arch which forms a frame for these paintings is richly 
sculptured and gilt. This part of the church is lighted by two 

( 1 ) The committee charged to report on the bill for a credit of 
1,500,000 fr. for the tomb of Napoleon have recommended that there 
should be erected on the basement story, in the centre of the choir 
under the dome, a crypt, having this advantage, that it would not in¬ 
terfere with the general fine effect of the church ; that it should be of 
Corsican granite, or porphyry, relieved with French marble; that it 
should be distinguished for severe and imposing simplicity; and that the 
sword, hat, imperial crown, iron crown, and grand decoration of the 
Legion of Honour, should be placed on it, “the view of these objects 
producing more effect than allegories or bas-reliefs, however well 
executed.” The celebrated Visconti, whose reputation has long since 
become European, is commissioned to execute it. 


HOTEL DES INVALIDES. 349 

windows, on the sides of which are figures of angels, with in¬ 
struments of music. The picture to the right is by Bon Boul- 
Iongne, and that to the left is by Louis Boullongne. Over the 
entrance to each of the corner chapels are well-executed bas- 
reliefs, representing events in the life of St. Louis. The lower 
vaulting of the dome rests on four arches, in the pendentives 
of which, above the galleries with gill balustrades, are the 
loui evangelists, by La fosse. They are master-pieces, and, 
being hung lowest and in the best light, are the most conspi¬ 
cuous and remarkable. Towards the sanctuary are St. Mark 
and St. Matthew; on the opposite side, St. Luke and St. John. 
Above the pendentives are an entablature and an attic, adorned 
with medallions, in bas-relief, of twelve of the kings of 
France, (1) bearing the portraits of Clovis, Dagobert, Pepin le 
Bref, Charlemagne, Louis le Debonnaire, Charles le Chauve 
Philip Augustus, St. Louis, Louis XIL, Henry IV., Louis XIII.' 
and Louis XIV. These medallions are by Bosio, Taunay, Rux- 
ttiiel, and Cartellier. The attic serves as a basement for 24 
coupled composite pilasters, between which are windows or¬ 
namented with brackets, from which garlands are suspended. 
Upon the pilasters rests an entablature from which the upper 
part of the vault springs. Arches, ornamented with corbeilles 
of roses, correspond with the pilasters beneath, between which 
are twelve windows, surmounted by 12 pictures, more than 
28 feet in height, by eleven in breadth at bottom, and about 
eight at top. They were painted by Jouvenet, and represent 
the twelve Apostles. The cornice above these pictures is or¬ 
namented with vine leaves, and forms a circular opening 48 
feet in diameter, through which is seen a second ceiling, lighted 
by external attic windows not visible from within. The paint¬ 
ing of this ceiling, by Lafosse, is of vast extent, and admirable 
execution. It represents St. Louis arrayed in his kingly robes, 
entering into glory amidst angels, and presenting to Jesus 
Christ the sword with which he triumphed over the enemies 
of the Christian faith. This picture is 50 feet in diameter, and 
contains more than 30 ligures of colossal size. In a vault be¬ 
neath the pavement of the dome are deposited the bodies of 
Marshal Mortier and the other 14 victims of FieschFs attempt 
on the life of the King on 28th July, 1835. To these have 
since been added the bodies of General Damremont, killed at 
Conslantina, and Marshal Lobau. The remains of Generals 
Duroc and Bertrand, the two Grand Marshals of the Palace of 
Napoleon, have lately been deposited in vaults by the side of 

(l) At the Revolution these portraits were transformed into those of 
Grecian and Roman philosophers, with Voltaire and Rousseau among 
them. Upon restoring them, Pepin le Bref was substituted for Childebert, 

30 



350 TENTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 

his tomb. There are two internal domes, both of stone, rising, 
one from the tower, the other from the attic which it supports, 
the external dome is of wood covered with lead, and is hardly 
less weighty than if it had been formed of stone. The visitor 
cannot fail to admire the Dome of the Invalides, one of the 
most sumptuous works of the age of Louis XIV. The paintings 
in particular are entitled to careful inspection for their colour¬ 
ing and design. The vast alteration, principally relating to 
the erection of the tomb of Napoleon, now in progress in this 
church, which, as has been stated, is for the present closed 
to the public, will necessarily introduce modifications not 
here mentioned. 

A small green esplanade in front of the southern porch is 
bounded by a fosse, over which a drawbridge served as an 
entrance to the king whenever he visited the church. Beyond 
this are wide avenues branching in different directions, but 
which are not kept with proper order and care. The Hdtel 
des Invalides may be inspected by strangers daily from 10 till 4• 
and on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, persons are al¬ 
lowed to ascend to the outer gallery of the Dome. The visitor 
will find Invalides ready to act as guides for a small remune¬ 
ration, and a trifle, at his option, will be expected by those 
who show the Council-Chamber, Kitchen, and Refectories. 
We advise the stranger to endeavour to see the Galerie des 
Plans des Forteresses de France, containing models of the prin¬ 
cipal fortresses and naval arsenals of France; for which appli- j 
cation must be made to M. le Chef du Departement des Forti¬ 
fications, 80, rue St. Dominique; they are, however, not easily 
visible, except from April 15 to May 15. 

After leaving the Invalides, the visitor will do well to look 
at the Hotel du Chdtelet, at the corner of the rue de Grenelle, ' 
No. 121, which will give him an idea of the grandeur of the 
nobility in the days of Louis XIV. The Four d’Honneur is one 
ol the finest in Paris. It is tenanted by the Austrian Ambassa¬ 
dor. Nearly opposite stood the figlise de St. Talere, once the 
chapel of a convent. The property, confiscated at the first 
revolution, passed in part to the family of Davoust, prince of 
Eckmuhl, and was by them sold to Mr. Hope, who has built a 
riding-house on it as an appendage to his splendid hotel re¬ 
cently finished, and which is most sumptuously furnished* 
Prince Demidoff’s hotel, at No. 105, rue St. Dominique, is like¬ 
wise one of the most richly furnished private residences of the 
capital. At No. 41, rue de Varennes, is the Hotel de Biron 
now occupied as a convent by the Dames du Sacrd Cceur. 

North of the esplanade of the Invalides is the 

Pont des Invalides.—A handsome suspension-bridge, Opened 










MANUFACTURE ROYALE RES TARACS. 354 

in 1829, in a direct line with the Avenue d’Antin of the Champs 
filysees, and forming a useful communication between Gros- 
Caillou and the faubourg St. Honore. The chains are supported 
by two piers, pierced with arches for the public passage. It is 
350 feet in length, and 24 in breadth, with a carriage road, and 
raised footway on each side. A toll is paid. 

Near to the above is the 

Manufacture Royale des Tabacs, 57 , Quai d’Orsai.—The 
French government have the exclusive right of manufacturing 
snuff for a term of years fixed by a law of the Chambers; this, 
the central establishment for the preparation of that article, is 
on a proportionably extensive scale, having been lately much 
augmented. There is a handsome house on the quay for the 
offices of clerks, etc., and for the residence of the director. On 
application at the Bureau de I’lnspecteur for permission to 
view the interior, the visitor is conducted through the first 
court enclosed by the smithy and warehouses, to the rooms 
where the bunches of tobacco are undone by the hands of 
women, next disposed into heaps, and moistened with salt 
water. Further on, the leaves so prepared during 24 hours are 
stripped of their stalks, and the blades separated from their 
spines. He is next led to the engine-room, where an immense 
steam-engine by Holcroft, of 140 horse power, communicates 
motion to a variety of machinery above. The floor of this 
room, and the steps that lead from it to the upper stories, are 
of cast iron. On ascending them, a long hall on the second 
story displays a row often chopping-machines, fed from behind 
by men who shovel the prepared tobacco-leaves into oscillat¬ 
ing funnels, through which they arrive to the chopper in a 
highly compressed state. The produce is tobacco ready for 
smoking. The next room contains 31 snuff-mills fed from 
above through canvas gullets; a main horizontal shaft, a foot 
in diameter, turns as many excentrics as there are mills, com¬ 
municating by straps with levers that give the perpendicular 
mill-shafts an alternate circular motion. The produce falls 
upon a broad canvas strap moving horizontally upon rollers, 
and is thus carried to four sieves; the snuff is sifted, and falls 
into troughs below; the coarser snuff is rejected and transported 
by the former process to a pit, from whence a bucket-engine 
carries it to the third story. Here it returns to the mills below 
through funnels communicating with the gullets above men¬ 
tioned. In the next room on this story is a machine for cutting 
tickets; and on descending, other rooms are seen, where 
cigars are manufactured by the hands of women, who are 
paid by the task. Next is the drying-room, where tobacco 
ready cut is exposed in large troughs to the action of a gentle 


352 TENTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 

heat. Two rooms for quids come next, where tobacco is spun 
like hemp, from the delicate quill-diameter patronized by the 
Parisian habitue of the Chaumiere, to the thick rope that forms 
the solace of the H&vre marin. None but the best quality is 
employed in this branch. The visitor will admire the astonishing 
celerity with which the men in the parcel-room weigh the 
tobacco, pack and ticket it. The parcels are then taken to the 
packing-room and packed in barrels containing 120 kilogrammes 
each. Six hundred females are employed in sorting and 
stripping; eight hundred more in manufacturing cigars; these 
with the 300 men in the establishment form 1700 individuals. 
A man will earn from 3 fr. to 3 fr. 50 c. a-day; a woman, if 
clever, may earn 2 fr. 50 c. per day. There are 10 manufactories 
in France all depending from this, the central one. The 
annual profit to the state on the tobacco monopoly is about 
70,000,000 fr.; and the quantity consumed (especially of cigars) 
is increasing. There are about 500 licensed dealers in tobacco 
and snuff in Paris. 

Adjoining is the Pompe a feu du Gros Caillou , established by 
Messrs. Perrier in 1786, for supplying houses on the left bank 
of the Seine with water. A reservoir is contained in the tower; 
there are also baths on the premises. 

At No. 65 is the Magazine of Military Accoutrements, formerly 
the Entrepot du Gros Caillou. The latter has been removed 
to the Entrepot des Marais (see 8lh arrondissement). A small 
railroad (now useless) connects the side gate with Grenelle. 

At 174, rue de l’Universite is the entrance to the 

Ateliers de Sculpture. —These consist of two handsome 
erections for the labours of sculptors employed by Government 
on public monuments, besides a house for the director, stone- 
yards, sheds, etc. The whole is arranged with great skill, and 
is worthy of the attention of lovers of the fine arts. Admission 
is generally obtained by applying at the porter’s lodge. 

In the same street, corner of the rue de la Yierge, the visitor 
will see, in the timber-yard of M. Renard, a most tasteful little 
building, in the shape of a Swiss cottage of the 15th century, 
with a most elaborate facade of oak carvings and ornaments, 
well worth his attention. 

The rue de la Yierge will lead him to the rue St. Dominique. 
At No. 185 is the 

Hospice Leprince.— This small hospital was founded in 1819, 
in execution of the will ofM. Leprince, who bequeathed money 
for that purpose. It contains 20 beds; 10 for old men, and 10 for 
women. The Soeurs dc Charite attend patients. 

Nearly opposite is 

St. Pierre du Gros Caillou, fourth district church of 10th ar- 


ECOLE MILITAIRE. 353 

rondissement.—-This church, erected in 1822, alter the designs 
of M. Godde, is remarkable for its beauty and simplicity. The 
portico consists of four Tuscan columns in front, and tAvo inte¬ 
rior ones, crowned by a pediment. The interior is ICO feet in 
length by 70 in breadth ; and contains a nave with aisles, 
having chapels at each end, and a semicircular recess for the 
high altar. The concave vault on the choir is painted and gilt 
in compartments. The columns cT the interior, dividing the 
aisles from the nave, are also Tuscan. The appearance of the 
interior is simple. It contains a picture by La Riviere, in fresco, 
in the frieze of the choir, representing Christ giving St. Peter 
the keys of heaven, and another by Gaillot, an angel rescuing 
St. Peter from prison. 

Beyond this church, to the west, is the 
Hopital Militaire.— This vast hopital, which has lately been 
much augmented, was founded by the Duke de Biron in 1765, 
for the French Guards. It contains 1,050 beds. 

Immediately opposite will be perceived the 
Fontaine de Mars, or du Gros Caillou. —This fountain was 
erected in 1813. It is a square building, ornamented with eight 
Doric pilasters, and an entablature. In the front is a bas-relief, 
representing Hygeia, the goddess of health, administering a 
draught to an exhausted soldier. On the sides are vases sur¬ 
rounded with the Esculapian serpent, and adorned with bas- 
reliefs ; the water flows from dolphins’ heads. 

On leaving the rue St. Dominique the stranger had better go 
at once to the 

IScole Militaire. —Louis XV., by an edict of 1751, founded 
this school for the gratuitous education of 500 young gentle¬ 
men, to be chosen from the sons of poor noblemen, preference 
being given to those who, having lost their fathers in the field, 
were considered as children of the state. A certain number of 
boarders were also admissible into the school, on paying 
2,000 livres. The Royal Military School, which occupied 10 years 
in building, was commenced in 1752, after the designs of Ga¬ 
briel. The principal entrance is towards the place de Fonte- 
noy : and opens into two courts surrounded wilh buildings. 
The first, a square of 420 feet, leads to a second, separated 
from it by a railing called the Cour Royale, forming a square 
of 270 feet. The front consists of a central Corinthian portico 
supporting a pediment on a level with the roof; the wings 
right and left have a Doric gallery on the ground-floor, and an 
Ionic one above. Two low Ionic porticos enclose the court 
north and south. In this court was a statue of Louis XV., by 
Lemoine, which was broken to pieces at the Revolution. The 
front toward the Champs de Mars is composed of a projecting 


354 


tenth ARRONDISSEMENT. 


portico of four Corinthian columns in the centre supporting 
a sculptured pediment and attic. Three attached Corinthian 
columns recede on either side from the former, over which 
rises a quadrangular dome. Two lateral wings have in their 
centres 4 Ionic columns with a pediment also. In front of the 
dome is a clock by Lepaute, ornamented with figures of Time 
and Astronomy. In the centre is a vestibule adorned with four 
ranges of columns of the Tuscan order, and four niches. On 
the first tloor is the Salle du Conseil, adorned with military 
emblems and pictures. The chapel was formerly most magni¬ 
ficent, but the valuable paintings which it possessed were 
destroyed at the Revolution, and at present it is used as a 
warehouse. The Duke de Choiseul ordered an observatory to 
be established in this edifice in 1768, and the celebrated as¬ 
tronomer Lalande was charged to carry the project into exe¬ 
cution. It was abolished shortly afterwards, was re-established 
m 1788, and was finally suppressed a few years ago, when the 
instruments were given to other similar institutions in diffe¬ 
rent parts of France. The military school was suppressed in 
April, 1788, and the pupils were distributed in regiments and 
military colleges. During the Revolution, the Ecole Militaire 
was transformed into barracks for cavalry. Napoleon after¬ 
wards made it his head-quarters. It now forms barracks for 
about 4,000 men, infantry, cavalry, and artillery. For permis¬ 
sion to view the interior, application must be made to M. le 
Commandant de la Premidre Division Militaire, 1 , rue de Lille. 

The Champs de Mars— is an immense oblong space between 
the Ecole Militaire and the Seine, of 2700 feet by 1320. It is 
flanked by ditches faced with stone, has four rows of trees on 
each side, and is entered by five gates. The sloping embank¬ 
ments, extending nearly its whole length, were formed by the 
population of Paris, of both sexes and all ranks, in 1790 for 
the celebrated F<He de la Federation, which took place on the 
14th of July, when an altar, called VAutel de la Patrie, was 
erected in the centre, and Louis XVI., seated in a superb am- 
p ntheatre in front of the Ecole Militaire, made oath to main¬ 
tain the new constitution. More than 60,000 persons were 
constantly at work till the embankments were completed. Na- 
poleon held here the famous Champ de Mai, before the battle 
ot Waterloo ; and here too, in 1830, King Louis Philippe dis- 
tribuled heir colours to the National Guards. On the night of 
he 14th June 1837 during the rejoicings in celebration of the 
marriage of the Duke of Orleans, 24 persons were suffocated or 
trodden to death by the pressure of the crowd passing through 
the gates. The Champ de Mars is used for military reviews and 
manoeuvres, as also for horse races. (See Index.) 


ARTESIAN WELL. 355 

Pont de Jena.— This bridge, begun in 180G, alter the designs 
of M. Dillon, and under the direction of M. Lamande, was 
completed in 1813. It is situated opposite the Ecole Militaire, 
and forms a communication between the Quai de billy and 
the Champ de Mars. It consists of live elliptical arches, and the 
length between the abutments is 460 feet. A cornice, imitated 
from the temple of Mars, at Rome, and garlands of laurel and 
oak, within which are an imperial crown and the letters L 
(replacing the original N’s) placed back to back, are the only 
ornaments with which it is decorated. At the extremities of 
the parapets are four pedestals. The beautiful simplicity and 
execution of this bridge, the first horizontal one built in Paris, 
give it a distinguished place among the ornaments of the capital. 
It has more than once changed its name. That of Jena was at 
first given to it in memory of the famous victory over the 
Prussians, on the l4lh of October, 1806. When the Prussians 
came to Paris in 1814, they would have blown it up but for the 
interference of the Duke of Wellington, to whom the Parisians 
are indebted for the respect paid to the monuments of the ca¬ 
pital during its occupation by the allies. At his recommendation 
a negotiation was entered into, and its name was changed by 
a royal ordonnance of July, 1814, to that of Pont des Invalides . 
Since 1830, however, it has again resumed its original one. 

A little to the north of the Barriere de Grenelle, an absorbing 
well has been formed to dispose of the contents of a large 
sewer. It is 200 feet deep. South east of the Ecole Militaire is the 

Abattoir de Grenelle. —Like the other edifices, this abattoir 
consists of several courts and piles of building. It is situated 
near the Place de Breteuil, and was begun in 1811, after the 
designs of M. Gisors. Having described the interior of the 
greater slaughter-houses of Popincourt, nothing need be said 
of the similar arrangements of this; yet one thing it contains 
cannot be overlooked, as it is well worth seeing, which is its 

Artesian Well.— It was towards the end of 1833, that the 
contract for boring to the depth of 1200 feet in search of water 
was made with M. Mulot, of Epinay sur Seine, and on the 1st 
January, 1834, the work began. On December 31, 1836, the 
boring-instrument had penetrated 383 metres, through strata 
of alluvial earth, sands, and successive beds of flint and chalk. 
In June, 1840, the borer had reached 466 metres, and was still 
in the chalk. For some days before the 26th February, 1841, a 
greenish sand had been drawn up, and this gave rise to the 
supposition that the boring-instrument was near the water. At 
length, about two o’clock on that day, the tube gave passage 
to a hltle thread of water; but soon after, the fluid, bursting 
out with force, broke through the machinery which surrounded 


356 TENTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 

the top of the tube. Thus had M. Mulot the happiness, after 
seven years and two months’ operations, to see his efforts 
crowned with success. The sand which came up was for a few 
days greenish; to that succeeded some of a yellowish colour. 
The temperature of the water was 28° of the centigrade scale, 
or 83£ Fahrenheit. Several times did the boring instrument 
break and fall in during these arduous operations: once, in 
May, 1837, when the length of the bar united was 407 metres, 
or 1335 feet. It required incessant labour from that time till 
August of the following year, a period of 14 months, to recover 
it. The immensity of the labour in forming this well may be 
conceived, considering that the boring-instrument had to 
penetrate to a depth of 1800 feet, the whole of which is now 
lined with galvanised iron. The water rises 112 feet above the 
surface of the ground in a pipe supported by a wooden scaf¬ 
folding which is accessible by steps. At the mouth of the well 
it yields 2500 litres, or 660 gallons, per minute ; at an elevation 
of 112 feet it gives 1200 litres. Water from the well of Grenelle 
will rise to the highest story of any house in Paris. The orifice 
o well is 55 centimetres (about 21 inches) in diameter, and 
18 centimetres at the bottom : its depth is 5^ times as great as 
the altitude of the highest point of the dome of the Invalides. 
It has now been ascertained that throughout the basin of the 
Seine and adjoining departments, artesian wells may be formed 
wherever the elevation of the soil does not exceed by 40 me¬ 
tres, or 131 feet, that of the Abattoir de Grenelle. 

The visitor may hence proceed to the 
Hopital de Madame Necker, 151 and 153, rue de Sevres.— 
This house was formerly a convent of Benedictine nuns, who 
quitted it about the year 17 75, and joined the general convent 
ot their order. It remained unoccupied till 1779, when, at the 
suggestion of the wife of the celebrated Minister Necker, 
Louis XVI. assigned funds to convert it into an hospital, of 
which Madame Necker passes as the foundress. Besides the 
cases of general disease treated at this hospital, two wards, 
containing 24 beds, are set apart for mothers with infants at 
the breast, and two more, containing i2 beds, for calculous 
disease, under the care of Dr. Civiale. In consequence of a 
Building lately added, the beds have been increased to 320. The 
average number of patients admitted is 4800, and the mortality 
in 10. Physicians Drs. Bricheteau, Hervez de Chegoin, and 
Irousseau; Surgeon, M. Lenoir. The chapel possesses two line 
statues ot Aaron and Melchizedek, in marble, which were pur¬ 
chased for 1200 fr. from an individual who discovered them 
when digging for the foundations of a house. The patients are 
attended by the Sceurs de Charite, Permission is given to visit 


INSTITUTION ROYALE DES JEUNES AVEUGLES. 357 

this establishment on Thursdays and Saturdays from l l to l 

Next door to this hospital is the 

Hopital des Enfans Malades.— On this spot existed a charity- 
school, called Matson de I’Enfant Jesus, which was purchased 
in 1732, by Languet deGergy, rector of St. Sulpice, and opened 
for the reception of poor girls and sick women of his parish. 
It was afterwards converted into a school for the daughters of 
poor noblemen, and in 1802 was formed into an hospital for 
sick children. The salubrity of the air, and the neighbouring 
walks, contribute greatly to the speedy convalescence of the 
young patients. It contains GOO beds. The children are admitted 
from 2 to 15 years of age. Gratuitous advice is also given to sick 
children in the neighbourhood. The average number of patients 
admitted is 3525, and the mortality 1 in G. Physicians, Drs. 
Guersant, Blache, Baudelocque, and Bonneau; Surgeons, M. 
Guersant fils; Orthopedic Surgeon, M. JulesGuerin. The Dames 
de St. Thomas de Villeneuve attend upon the patients. Strangers 
are allowed to visit this hospital on Thursdays and Sundays, 
from 1 to 3. 

At the corner of the boulevard and the rue de Sevres is the 

Institution Royale des Jeunes Aveegles. —This establishment 
originated in the benevolent exertions of M. Hauy, who, being 
himself blind, in 1784 opened a school for blind children. In 
1791 it was created a royal institution by Louis XVI. It occupied 
the buildings of the ancient Seminaire St. Firmin, in the rue 
St. Victor, but was removed in 1843 to the present splendid 
building, which, together with its courts and gardens, covers a 
rectangle of nearly 4,000 square feet. It was erected under the 
direction of M. Philippon, architect. Surmounting the grand 
entrance is a bas-relief, by M. Jouffroy, representing on one 
side Valentin Hauy, the first instructor of the blind, teaching 
his pupils; on the other, a female giving lessons to six girls; in 
the midst, Religion encourages both. The building is divided 
into two sides, containing distinct apartments for the males and 
females. The visitor is first conducted to the right wing, oc¬ 
cupied by the boys, and witnesses successively their ability in 
brush-making, joinery, turning, weaving, and hasket-making, 
which is considered the best employment for them, except 
music, for which they have a peculiar aptitude, which is here 
cultivated with the utmost care. On ascending the first story, 
he is introduced to the school and music rooms, and next to 
the chapel, which occupies the centre; it is of the Ionic and 
Corinthian orders combined. Two ranges, of 12 columns each, 
form an upper and lower gallery occupying the whole perimeter 
of the chapel, save the choir, which is cruciform, and separated 
from the nave by a main arch. It is crowned with a cupola, 


358 TENTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 

and ends in a semicircular recess, the semi-cupola of which is 
painted in fresco by Lehmann, and represents Christ calling 
children around him. The ceiling of the nave is of limber 
work, with gilt rosettes, in square compartments. On the se¬ 
cond floor are the dormitories, four for hoys, and two for girls, 
besides a supplementary one in case of necessity. Dressing- 
rooms with tanks receiving water from cocks are contiguous 
to them. Here also are the rooms of the Sceurs de Ste. Marie, 
that attend in the infirmaries, which are two in number, one 
for each sex. A repetition of nearly the same rooms occurs on 
the side of the girls, arranged for occupations proper to their 
sex. The refectories are furnished with long marble tables, 
besides a long marble washing-basin with spouts, against the 
wall, and occupy the ground-floor, together with the kitchens, 
baths, etc. All the professors are blind, and the establishment 
requires hardly any aid of mechanics from without, nearly every 
thing being manufactured by the inmates. Water is supplied 
from the artesian well at Grenelle. The building is heated by 
means of hot-water pipes, and lit with alcohol mixed with a 
combustible liquid extracted from wood. A gymnastic appa¬ 
ratus is constructed in the garden, and the interior arrange¬ 
ments are admirably adapted for the health and comfort of the 
pupils. It is probable that the number of inmates will now be 
much increased, as the building is capable of accommodating 
300 pupils. The children, if received gratuitously, must not be 
under 8 nor above 15 years of age, and are required to produce 
certificates of their birth, freedom from contagious disease, and 
idiocy, as well as of their parents’ good conduct and indigence. 
For pensioners no age is fixed. It is interesting to see so many 
unfortunate children, who would otherwise be thrown on the 
charity of the public, educated and trained to profitable occu¬ 
pations. Among the elder pupils there are some excellent 
pianists and performers on the most difficult instruments. They 
have a printing-office for the publication of books in relief, the 
types being sharp enough to produce impressions without cut¬ 
ting the paper ; so that the child, by merely moving the fingers 
along the lines, can read with tolerable ease, the printers 
and compositors are all blind. Every pupil besides has books 
written by himself under dictation, by a process of punctua¬ 
tion which produces conventional letters in relief on the paper. 
Some pupils excel in mathematics, and by the methods describ¬ 
ed can put on paper very intricate calculations. In the Salle 
des Ventes visitors will find a variety of articles for purchase, 
made by the inmates, some of them beautifully executed. At 
present there are about 240 pupils. The Government has al¬ 
lotted 100 purses of 1,000 fr. each to the education of as manv 


HOSPICE DES INCURABLES FEMMES. 359 

indigent pupils ol either sex, and several benevolent indivi¬ 
duals have endowed the establishment in a similar way. Ad¬ 
mittance with passports from 1 to 5 on Wednesdays, hoarders, 
French or foreign, are admitted to share the benefits of this 
admirable institution. The director and chief instructor is 
M. Dulau. Ihe last Saturday of the month there is an examina¬ 
tion ot the pupils, at which foreigners are allowed to be present. 

At the opposite corner of the boulevard, in the same street, 
No. 104, is a convent of the Dames de la Congregation of Notre 
Dame, with a small but elegant Gothic chapel; and at No. 95 
is a religious society of the Lazarisls, with a small Doric chapel 
fronting the street. Opposite to this is the 

Fontaine Egyptienne.— This fine fountain was constructed in 
1800. It presents the gale of an Egyptian temple, in the open¬ 
ing of which is a statue holding in each hand a vase, from 
whence water falls into a semicircular basin, and issues thence 
by the head of a spliynx, in bronze. In the entablature is an 
Egyptian eagle. 

The visitor may now enter the 

Hospice des Incurables Femmes, 54, rue de Sevres.—This 
house, originally called Hupital des Incurables, was founded 
in 1031% by Cardinal de la Rochefoucault. A spacious court 
leads to the chapel, the front of which has a gable surmounted 
by an iron belfrey, and is deserving of attention. Two niches 
with statues Hank the entrance. The interior is cruciform, 
without aisles, and possesses many pictures, among which an 
Annunciation, in the nave, and a Flight into Egypt, in the 
western transept, both by Perier, as also a Guardian Angel, by 
Champagne, and St. Vincent de Paule preaching to the Sisters 
of Charily in the eastern transept. The other paintings, though 
by unknown artists, are mostly good ; particularly the Adora¬ 
tion of the wise men, and that of the shepherds, both on wood, 
the latter bearing the date of 1404. There are also two curious 
pictures of the Flemish school, the one representing the Saviour 
holding some thread stretched out, which his mother is wind¬ 
ing into a ball; in the other painting he holds firm a board 
which Joseph is in the act of sawing. A good Holy Family will 
attract attention. In the same transept is also a handsome 
marble monument of the founder, representing him kneeling 
on a sarcophagus, and an Angel holding his train, and in the 
opposite wall is a large marble tablet containing a list of the 
donors to the establishment.—The infirmaries consist of long 
galleries partitioned into separate rooms, one for each patient, 
modestly but sufficiently furnished, and which gives them the 
appearance of streets. In this institution there are GOO beds for 
women, 70 for children, and 15 apartments or rooms for the 


360 TENTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 

persons employed. Visitors meet wilh the most polite attention, 
and are admitted from 1 to 4. Dr. Lafond attends in this hospice, 
and the inmates are waited on by the Soeurs de la Charite. 

A little farther to the east will he found the 

Hospice des Menaces, 28, rue de la Chaise, which was once a 
lazaretto for children afflicted wilh scorbutic and other cuta¬ 
neous diseases. In 1554, the old building having been pulled 
down, the municipality of Paris bought the ground and mate- 
nals, and erected an hospital for beggars, old men, idiots, etc., 
called Hopital des Petites Maisons, from the courts being sur¬ 
rounded by small houses. By an ordonnance of October 1801 
this institution was appropriated exclusively to the aged and 
infirm, and received the name of Hospice des Menaces, a name 
indicative ol its object. It is now appropriated to aged persons 
of both sexes, married or widowed, who have resided in Paris 
or the department of the Seine, for two years, and contains 
160 large chambers for married couples, 115 small chambers 
for widows and widowers, and 264 beds in the dormitories, 
t hirty of the best chambers are reserved for couples 60 and 
70 years of age, who can give 3200 fr. for admission: the re¬ 
maining 130 are for couples entirely destitute of resources, one 
of whom must be 70 and the other at least 60 years of age 
The 100 small chambers are destined for those widows and 
widowers who are 60 years old at least, have been married 
20 >eais, and can pay 1600 fr. on admission. Of the 250 beds in 
the dormitories, 150 are appropriated to such men as have 
become widowers in the hospital; of the remaining 100 beds 
50 are for widows and widowers, and the others for persons 
60 yeais ol age, who have been married at least 20 years and 
can pay 1000 tr. on their admission. Each inmate is required to 
bring a bedstead, two mattresses, a bolster, two blankets two 
pair of sheets, two chairs, and a chest of drawers Each re 
ceives a pound and a quarter of bread per day, and two pounds 
of raw meat per week; the sum of 4 fr. every ten days and a 
double stere of wood and four voies of charcoal a-year The 
number of inmates amounts lo 760, of both sexes. The build- 
mgs are plain, a chapel is annexed to them, and the garden 
attached to the institution is extensive. The front doorway is 
remarkable for its scroll work. The Seeurs de CharM attend 
this establishment, and the chief medical man in Dr. Labric 
Strangers may visit this bighly-useful and interesting hospi ai 
every day, on producing their passports. 1 

At the junction of the streets opposite to this hospital is an 
edifice serving as a fountain, but of no interest • and Lit 
diate'y to the east is the A,„, E Bo “ Impel o? e' 
lo St. Thomas d'Aqum, 16, rue de Sevres. Contiguous to this 


ST. FRANCOIS XAVIER. 364 

church was a convent, which was bought in 1719, by a com¬ 
munity of nuns called Religieuses de Notre Dame aux Bois. 
T he church, built at that period, is not remarkable in point of 
architecture. The only pictures of note that it contains are a 
Virgin and Dead Christ, by Lebrun, and a St. John, by Vincent. 

Opposite to this is the Maison du Noviciat des Religieuses 
Hospitalieres de St. Thomas de Villeneuve, 27, rue de Sevres. 

I he rue d’Assas leads from this to the rue Vaugirard, in 
which, at No. 83, an immense reservoir has been constructed by 
the City of Paris, to receive water from the basin of la Villelte 
and the Arlesian well of Crenelle, and supply the faubourg St. 
Germain. A winding staircase leads to the top, where two se¬ 
parate sheets of water, of 800 square metres each, will be seen. 
Ihe depth is 5 metres, and the total quantity of water is 8000 
cubic metres, or 216,000 cubic feet. 

I'lie visitor will now proceed by the rue du Bac, in which, 
at No. 132, is the Hotel Chatillon, built by a pupil of Mansard, 
and now occupied by the Congregation des Soeurs de St. Vin¬ 
cent de Paule. North of this stands 

St. Franqois Xavier, or Eglise des Missions Etrangeres, 
second chapel of ease to St. Thomas d’Aquin, 120, rue du Bac. 
—A missionary seminary was founded at this spot in the 1 7th 
century, by Bernard de Sle. Therese, Bishop of Babylon. The 
church w.as begun in 1683, after the designs of Dubuisson. It 
consists of two parts, one on the ground-floor, and the other 
above. The lower church is perfectly plain, and service is per¬ 
formed in it only on Sundays. The upper one, of the Ionic 
order, is slightly cruciform, with two cupolas, the western and 
longer arm of the cross serving for the choir, and communi¬ 
cating with the seminary behind. Over the al ar is the Adora¬ 
tion of the Magi; and on the north side of the choir is a good 
painting, by Bon Boullongne, of Christ driving the money¬ 
changers from the Temple, and a small copy of one of the 
cartoons of Raphael. In the north transept, used as a chapel 
of the Virgin, is a Holy Family, of the school of Lebrun, and 
in the southern transept, or chapel of St. Francois Xavier, is 
the apotheosis of the saint. On the same side is a good painting 
of the Death of Christ. Over the eastern door is the organ, and 
a small gallery. The altar is of white marble, and is graced 
with three beautiful bas-reliefs of Hope, Faith, and Charity. 
The seminary is intended for the instruction of young men in 
the sciences and languages necessary for missionaries in the 
east; its superior for the time being is also rector of the church; 
and the institution can boast of having numbered among its 
members the virtuous Abbe Edgeworth, who attended Louis 
XVI. in his last moments on the scaffold. 


3t 


TENTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 


362 

lhe stranger, if fond of examining the domestic architecture 
0 the times of LouisXIV. and XV., may gratify his curiosity by 
wandering into some of the streets that cross the rue du Bac; 
in any one of tliem he is sure of finding something interesting. 

In the rue de Babylone is a barrack for infantry, famous for 
the attack and defence of it in the revolution of 1830; and in 
he rue Vanneau, No. 8, is a newly-erected house, worthy of 
examination, being a faithful example of the style of Francis I. 
In the rue de Varennes, No. 23, is the hotel of the late Duchess 
de Bourbon, now the property of H. R. H. Mine. Adelaide. It 
was constructed by Brongniart, and stands in a line garden, 
with a long avenue reaching quite to the rue de Babylone. No. 35 
in the same street, is the Hotel d’Orsay, formerly belonging 
to the late eccentric and wealthy M. Seguin, and recenlW re¬ 
stored and embellished by Count DuchMel. Near this at No lio 

™ e de /^nelle, corner of ™e Belle-Chasse, is the ancient 
convent of Panthemont, now used as a barrack for cavalry. Part 
ot the old buildings are now demolished, and a new one erect¬ 
ing o enlarge the barracks. The church, devoted to protes- 
tant service, fronts the street, and is surmounted by a weH- 
prop oriioned dome, and is a g00d architeclural ol)ject Us 

enrvia r f 1S - CrUCI ^ and ornament ed with Ionic pilasters and 
urved friezes. fins street contains some of the elite of the 

Fia,lce > Bie western part has, at No. 116, the 
hotel of the Minister of Public Instruction, and, at No. 101 the 

ChatTT ° f i l i he Minis 1 ler 01 lhe Ulterior. In the Place Belle- 
Ste nnrn ld ^ works are 111 P ro gress for the new church of 
‘ C( J llde - llie cost of which is to be three millions. In the 

Zrr, y a ,T neS ,’ at No * 26 ’ is lhe Hotel of the Minister of Com- 

w uir t Leiti:;rofii\e a tiT;r. iiuicaling u,roush ihe » 

_ J'. 1 ® ” e ‘. s . hb0urin s rue St. Dominique is celebrated for its 
noble residences; among them the following are worthy of 

VuchenDmr r e N °' 33; the H ^lof the\ate 

f , . . onager of Orleans , No. 58, formerly inhabited bv 

Grammonf No^mV ° f I'm Empir ®’ c ambaeeres; the Hotel de 

of Wat This is J * ,‘ e reSldence and offlce ®f ‘he Minister 

valuable Sb ary o uLatT oTSS’JJS”?*’ a " d conlains a 
lebrated for 1,» r„i, 1 , ‘ 20 ’ 000 volu 'nes, which is ce- 

the comnleTe f °"°T S literary and historical treasures : 

havebe ‘° Y SpanfehSesIdo^'p^oTThil* 

have been already published; the correspondence of Napoleon 


363 


ST. THOMAS D’AQUIN. 

and General Berthier; a vast collection of most valuable geo¬ 
graphical documents, etc., among which are the large official 
maps of France, corresponding to the ordnance survey maps 
of England ; a very extensive series of drawings of the battles 
of Napoleon, made from strict surveys, afterwards executed 
on the localities themselves, by order of the Emperor; together 
with a great number of various interesting and important do¬ 
cuments, the most valuable of which are successively publish¬ 
ing under the title of Memorial du Depot de la Guerre. To visit 
this library apply to M.le Directeur du Depot de la Guerre, 82, 
rue St. Dominique. 

The visitor passes hence, by the rue St. Vincent de Paule, to 

St. Thomas d’Aquin, parish church of the tenth arrondisse- 
ment, Place St. Thomas d’Aquin.—This church formerly be¬ 
longed to a convent of Jacobins, founded by Cardinal Biche- 
lieu. It was begun in 1C83, after the designs of Peter Bullet. 
The front, rebuilt in 1787, by Brother Claude, one of the 
monks, is decorated with two ranges of columns of the Doric 
and Ionic orders, surmounted by a pediment, in which is a 
bas-relief representing Beligion, and is terminated by a cross. 
This church is 132 feet in length, and 72 feet in height. The 
interior is ornamented with Corinthian pilasters, the capitals 
of which are carved with unusual spirit and elegance. The 
spandrils of the arches are filled with wreaths of flowers and 
fruit, and above a bold cornice runs a narrow gallery all 
round the church, over which windows rise to the vault. The 
church is slightly cruciform, the depth of the transepts being 
equal to the breadth of the aisles, and a cupola expands over 
their intersection with the nave. It is painted in fresco by 
Blonde!, and represents in four compartments, separated by 
painted scroll-work, the four Evangelists, Christ holding the 
Gospel, and the Virgin adored by angels. In the pendentives 
are St. Thomas d’Aquin, St. Francois de Sales, St. Vincent de 
Paule, and St. Dominic. The choir is semi-circular, with a 
richly-gilt semi-cupola. Behind it is a chapel to St. Louis, with 
a picture of that saint; the ceiling and walls are painted in 
fresco by Blondel, the former representing the Assumption, 
and the latter the Bearing of the Ark. In the western transept 
are the personifications of the Hearts of Jesus and Mary in two 
paintings by Cigoli; and the while marble altar with a statue 
of the Virgin will be remarked on account of its curious pedi¬ 
ment, which may be considered a fault in architecture. In the 
western aisle are : St. Thomas d’Aquin stilling a storm at sea, 
by Scheffer; the Conversion of St. Paul, by La Hire; the Pro- 
digalSon,byRoehn; and a Descentfrom the Cross, byGuillemot, 
painted in 1G39, of considerable merit. In the eastern aisle, 


3*^ TENTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 

are : Magdalen at the Calvary; Paul before Festus, by Vouet- 
and a good Holy Family of the Flemish School. In the follow¬ 
ing transept : the Apotheosis of St. Vincent de Paule, and 
Christ in the Garden of Olives, by Bertin; a good picture for 
light and shade. Over the sacristy door, in the same transept 
is a Picture of St. Louis, and in the other is one of Sle Cathe¬ 
rine. The pulpit is well carved, and there is a tine organ over 
the entrance. The church is celebrated for its preachers, and 
tor its fashionable congregations. 

Adjoining to this church, 3, Place St. Thomas d’Aquin is the 
Musee D’ARTILLERIE.-This highly interesting and curious 
museum, a visit to which should not be omitted, established 
m the ancient convent of the Feuillans in 1794, was removed 
to this convent of the Jacobins in 1797, and was originally 
formed of arms from the Garde-Meuble de la Couronne, the 
Chateau de Chantilly, the Chateau de Sedan, the Bastille and 
other armories. During the last war the museum was greatly 
augmented by spoils from the enemy, but in 1814 was much 

“n ,)Y Uie removal ofarms claimed by the allies; in 
1815, the Prussians carried off 580 chests ofarms. The visitor 
is recommended to purchase a catalogue at the door, price 1 fr. 

the numbers of which we occasionally refer in the following 
description. In the passage leading to the rooms of the ground 
floor are guns of various calibres? from Ihe roughest S 
vances in the infancy of the invention to the most ele’anl 
Z™ 0t ? ler tlays ' Amon S lllel >i are several Turkisli pieces 

d’U lotTni < 838 SC A P nn'? nS ’ ?"? f ° Ur pieces laken from st - Juan 
t q o f fl ‘ 18 ? 8 * £ colossal chain is suspended along the walls 

590 feet in length, and weighing 7,896 pounds, called the 

nnnfn 6 Danube > from having been used by the Turks for a 
pontoon bridge over that river, at the siege of Vienna in 1683 
On entering the first room on the ground floor we find fiSfif* 
Pieces, howitzers, culverins, and fatten els, Sariy disposed' 
wo pieces of large calibre, with Arabic inscriptions flank the 
inner door. Here Nos. 2576 and 2589 deserve attention Next 
is the Salle des Modeles, witii models in the proportion of 1 to 
Nos •man"",?,; ^m-ceni ages, ammunition-waggons etc 

The visdm. then mlsTd’ MS which^eads 

grisaille with ar ms^and attributes of wnr.^H is^litby^emicir 11 

cular windows; the walls are hung with troubles of 
coats of mail, shields, etc. The floo? aTong Te w s is occuoTed 
by complete suits of armour, on blocks, with the escutcheons of 
former owners (some of whom are uncertain) painted upon 


musee d’artillerie. 365 

them. The middle of the floor is occupied by ligures on horse¬ 
back in armour. The walls are also receiving a series of por¬ 
traits, by Philippes and Van Parys, of the most eminent French 
generals from the earliest times to the present day. Among 
those already placed, the visitor will remark Count Valee, de 
Lariboissiere, the Duke de Raguse, and two members of the fa¬ 
mily of Sully. In this gallery the armour is arranged chrono- 
logically, the series commencing at the farthest extremity. 
The visitor will remark No. G, the armour of Frederic Maurice, 
prince of Sedan; No. IT, of the lime and with the initials of the 
Emperor Maximilian; No. 21, that of Frederic V., King of Bo¬ 
hemia; No. 28, that of Francis I. on horseback, in the midst of 
the hall; No. 37, attributed to Henry 111. of France; No. 38, 
that of Charles IX.; No. 40, that of the Duke de Mayenne, head 
of the Ligue; No. 41, Henry Duke of Guise ; No. 60, the armour 
made at Brescia, and presented by the republic of Venice to 
Louis XIV., in 1688; No. 72, attributed to Connetable Anne de 
Montmorency; No. 187, the helmet of Henry II. of France; 
No. 189, the sword, helmet, and other remains of the armour 
of Henry IV.; No. 193, the helmet of Bajazetll., son of the con¬ 
queror of Constantinople. Other suits of armour, of doubtful 
origin, are described in the well-composed catalogue, but 
would be too numerous for description here. At the extremity 
of the gallery are two trophies containing arms of rich and 
costly execution; and on brackets near them two ancient 
helmets, one of which is said to have been that of Attila, who 
died in 453; the other, on which are some verses of the Koran 
in Arabic characters, is said to have belonged to Abderama, 
killed by Charles Martel in 730. In the other galleries, which 
are numbered 1, 2, 3, and 4, are racks, in which are arranged 
small arms, ancient and modern. The most curious and costly 
objects are in glass-cases. Along the sides, next the windows, 
are rows of tables, presenting models of cannon, gun-carriages, 
military equipages, machines, instruments, etc. Upon the floor 
under the racks are models of large dimensions. We may no¬ 
tice, in gallery No. 1, the precious inlaid carabines, cross-bows, 
and stirrups; Nos. 1420, 1370, 1388, 1389, and 3761. In gallery 
No. 2, the model of the bridge of Mellingen, and the oriental 
arms in the press; in gallery No. 3, in a glass case, relics of the 
battles of Agincourt and Crecy; and in gallery No. 4, the col¬ 
lection of modern arms, and Nos. 3804, 833, 854, and 124. 
Strangers are admitted on Thursdays from 12 to 4, on producing 
their passports. A building containing a military library of 
6,000 volumes, besides naval charts, etc., is also attached to 
this museum, but is reserved for the use of the officers forming 
the garrison of Paris, and not open to the public. 


TENTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 

In rue de Grenelle, No. 57, to the east of the rue du Bac, is the 
Fontaine de Grenelle, one of the finest in Paris.—Bouchar- 
don, who furnished the designs, executed the figures, bas-re¬ 
liefs, and some of the ornaments. It was begun in 1739, and 
finished in 1745. The building is of a concave semi-elliptical 
form, 90 feet in length by 3G in elevation. In the centre is a 
pavilion, resting on a basement, with plain horizontal rustics 
and consisting of two couples of Ionic columns supporting a 
pe< nnent. In front is a group in white marble, representing 
the City of laris sitting on the prow of a ship, between the 
,me and the Marne. In the lateral niches are allegorical 

Cardinal Fleur^ 11 ^ C ° lumnS is the foll °wing inscription, by 

Dum Ludovicus XV., populi amor et parens optimus, public® tran- 
quilhtans assertor, Gallic! imperii finibus, innocue propagatis; pace 
Germanos Russosque inter et Ottomanos feliciter conciliaia; gloriose 
simul et pacifice regnabat; fontem hunc civium ulilitali, urbisque orna- 

menlo, consecraruntPrsfectusetjEdiles, Anno DominiM.DGG.XXX.IX. 

The wings have Doric pilasters, between which are four sta¬ 
tues and as many bas-reliefs, representing the four seasons 
besides two escutcheons containing the arms of the city. ’ 

From hence the rue de Grenelle leads into the rue des Saints 
etes where, at No. 58, will be remarked a small church 
erec ed in 1773 by De Cote, architect to the King, on the 
moulding of which is a statue of Esculapius. It now serves as 

wil“t!i 0 e tIie EC0U ^ Mddecine ' From hence the visitor 

f^ ?I Ta AL DE LA Charit ®’ 45, rue Jacob.—This hospital was 
ounded in 1613, by Marie de Medicis, for a religious commu- 
mty caHed Freres de la Charitd, who were all surgeons or 

but asSd S thp nd n0t t ? nIy affonled medical relief to the sick, 
but assisted them in their spiritual duties. A new ward and 

H res 1784; lhe Ialter is in lhe suedes Saints 
k n 2 , formerly served as an entrance to the hospital, but 
< osed. A new handsome front, with a spacious Doric 
e„ ranee and vestibule, has just been completed i'„ the rue ,a- 
coo. ihe courts are spacious and airy: there are "-artlcm nkn 

~Xt SCe T S - an(1 -edicai r s e eho e or s a .trbee„ 0 

ed tfe as aUtrS .'Tn- 30 bed *' The san,e leases are treat- 
eu here as at the Hotel Dieu and the Hopital de la Pitie The 

Dames de St. Augustin attend upon the sick The aieri' 

number of patients is 8,000, and the mortality 1 in 10 40 — 

Physicians, Drs. Andral, Fouquier, Bayer, Cr uveilhier and 

Bouillaud. Surgeons, Messrs. Velpeau and Gerdv Consult^ 

lions every day, from 9 to 10, Sundays excepted. Strangers 


ST. GERMAIN DES PRES. 367 

are admitted daily from 1 to 3, upon application to the direc¬ 
tor at the bureau. 

The next street, to the east of the rue St. Benoit, in the rue 
Jacob, leads to 

St. Germain des Pres.— This is the abbey-church of one of 
the most extensive and most ancient monastic establishments 
of Paris. Childebert, son of Clovis, on the instigation of St. Ger¬ 
main, Bishop ofParis, founded a monastery about the year 550, 
though the Pragmaticum, which is still preserved among the 
archives du royaume, dates from 561. He dedicated the church 
to the Holy Cross, St. Stephen, and St. Vincent; the relics of 
the latter saint were brought by him from Spain, and given to 
the monastery, together with the treasure which he had taken 
from Amalaric, at Toledo, and a piece of the true cross. This 
foundation was endowed with many estates, and among others 
with the lief of Issy, extending over the whole of the southern 
bank of the Seine, from the Petit Pont in Paris to the village 
of Sevres. Throughout this domain the society possessed full 
jurisdiction, which they retained till 1674; and the prison of 
the Abbaye still remains as a monument of their importance. 
The church, dedicated in 557, was celebrated for its decora¬ 
tions, and was called “ The Golden Basilic.” The buildings, 
gardens, etc., which occupied the site either of a Roman 
temple, or of some building dependent on the Roman imperial 
palace, were without the walls of Paris; but in 861, the Nor¬ 
mans, in their incursions along the course of the Seine, at¬ 
tacked, and nearly destroyed, the monastery. The church was 
burnt; cf which nothing is supposed to remain except part of 
the lower work of the western tower. The tomb of Childebert 
was injured at this period, but was carefully restored by the 
monks after the invaders retired. According to some ac¬ 
counts, the abbey sustained three attacks of the Normans in 
846, 853, and 886; but it is certain that the edifice was soon 
aflerwards repaired; and that the Abbot Morardus, 26lh in 
succession, began rebuilding the church in 990. The work 
was carried on by his successors at various intervals, till 1163, 
when Hugues III., abbot of the monastery, having completed 
its restoration, it was consecrated by Pope Alexander III. No 
material alterations took place till 1644, and 1653-6, when the 
society caused the wood-work of the choir to be altered, and 
stone vaulting to be substituted for the wooden ceiling of the 
nave. The great altar was also moved to the entrance of the 
choir, and the tomb of Childebert placed in the middle of the 
church. This was not, however, the only place of worship in 
the monastery : the chapel of Notre Dame was built about the 
middle of the 13th century, by Pierre de Montereau, during 


TENTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 

tlie abbacy of Hugues dTssy, and was finished in Ihe time of 
l nomas de Mauleon, his successor. This, if we may judge by 
the fragments that remain, was one of the most exquisite 
pieces of architecture of-the middle ages. About the same 
time also, Abbot Simon, in 1239, began the celebrated re- 
ectory, which was finished in 1244. This building resembled 
,7- ® f S . L Martin des Champs, and was not unlike a church, 
n 1227 also the cloisters were erected on the northern side of 
le church, by Abbot Oddo ; so that the monastery, at the time 
oi lie Revolution, must have been a rich repository of the 
rcbileclure of the 13th and preceding centuries. In 1369, the 
abbey was fortified against the English by Charles V. ; and, in 
the time of Henry IV., being still without the walls of the 
tov\n, it resembled a fortress, like its rival St. Martin des 
uiamps At this latter period it was encompassed by a moat • 
t c ,° le wes C where part of the Faubourg St. Germain now 

r?" ds ’ W / S a " ° pen space ’ called lhe Pr « Clercs, from its 
f f our, le resort of the students or clercs of the Uni- 

diioiiicic ' 3 r S0 lll ,° P lace °( fashionable rendezvous of 

uelhsts. Up to 1503, the abbots had been generallv elected 

tlfr rrnw C,ely ’ I™ 1 after lhal periftd the Y were nominated by 
this h!Z,l and among other distinguished men who attained 
O p ni n f Casim,r ’ Kin S of Pol and, who died in 1672 
of hi p he most remarka hle events connected with the history 
I celebrated society was its incorporation, in 1644, with 

ed thoTjpf, con S re g a jion of St. Maurj from whence emanal- 

labn„ r«f h*! V d Benedlctlnes > whose historical and critical 

Montfaucon 6 aT ai l e P och in modern literature. Mabillon, 
Montfaucon, Achery, Rumart, etc., were all of this abbev 

15 gg an d s tiH pi 3 -! bUilt , by the Cardinal de Bourbon, hi 
east of p p ! exists, a large brick building, faced with stone, 
east of the church. At the Revolution, this abbey bein^ sud- 

became’a «l )U1 ! dmSS T® converled 10 Public purpose’s, aid 
became a saltpetre-manufactory. An explosion faking place in 

much damaged Thel u 817 Were destr °y ed . and me church 
ell damaged. The building remained in very bad repair till 

memed bv M fiodTe X -’ H when ,, lhe restoration of it was com- 
menced by M. Godde, and continued till 1836, in which vear it 

was completely terminated. The site of the chapel oSre 

Dame is now occupied by a street, where part of the side walls 

ormp‘ n ’• I°H SeS S !i a f nd 011 lhe cloislers and where the refectory 

ihp ni S et ; ai GW tr , aces remain of monastery except 
the abbots mansion and the church; the latter is one of the 

most interesting monuments of Paris, being perhaps the ear¬ 
nest of which the date is clearly ascertained." The two eastern 
oweis that stood one on each side of the choir, in the angles 


ST. GERMAIN DES PRES. 3(,g 

formed by the transepts, were of the time of the Abbot Mo- 
rardus, in 990; their upper parts no longer exist; the western 
tower is in full preservation, and consists of a square body, 
with butti esses at the angles, and double arched windows 
with columns; the whole surmounted by an octagonal spire 
with four smaller ones at the angles. The western porch’ 
masked by a worthless Doric entrance, deserves attention as 
also the lateral entrance by the rue Childebert. The former 
is pointed, with receding arches resting on clustered columns; 
in the ogive is a bas-relief of ancient date, representing the 
Last Supper, and over this the figure of Christ. The figures 
that once adorned the western front may be found in Mont- 
faucon’s Antiquities. The interior is cruciform, with a nearly 
circular east end, and quadripartite vaulting throughout; the 
nave is simple, having plain aisles without chapels, except one 
in the southern aisle, but the choir is surrounded by them. 
There is no triforium in the nave, and the arches are semi-cir¬ 
cular: all this part is also of the time of the Abbot Morardus. 
That part of the choir which stands between the eastern 
towers is supposed to be intermediate in date to the nave and 
the choir; the latter of which is the work of Abbot Hugues III., 
in 11G3. All the capitals of the pillars forming the piers will 
be particularly remarked for the devices of which they are 
composed; many of those in the nave are restorations of the 
old ones, which, from their ruinous stale, were obliged to be 
removed; they were, however, copied with the most scrupulous 
fidelity, and the whole forms a valuable and curious series of 
early sculpture. The piers of the nave are fronted with lofty 
attached columns with Corinthian capitals from which spring 
the ribs. The vault here is circular, while that of the choir is 
Gothic. The square-headed triforium of the choir is also 
worthy notice. The ceiling and walls of the choir are being 
painted by M. Flandrin. The chapels are fronted with cluster¬ 
ed columns, and so are also the piers of the transepts. The 
high altar, placed at the entrance of the choir, has been lately 
restored; it is of white marble, and stands on a raised platform 
composed of beautiful French marbles. The southern aisle 
contains little worthy of attention, save the Martyrdom of St. 
Vincent, by Cazes (1784), and the afore-mentioned chapel, 
surmounted by a cupola and drum, the ceiling of which is 
boldly painted with the apotheosis of a saint. The southern 
transept, which is the chapel of Ste. Marguerite, contains a 
handsome tomb of one of the Castellan family. In the chapel 
of the choir next to the sacristy is a tomb of James Duke of 
Douglas, who died in 1645. His figure in white marble is re¬ 
clining on a sarcophagus. Here also is a painting of Joseph 


3^0 TENTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 

leading Christ by the hand, by Delarue. Opposite this chapel 
is St. Paul haranguing Herod and Berenice, by Cazes (1784.) 
In 1 he id chapel, black marble slabs mark the remains of Ma- 
billon, Descartes, and Montfaucon. In the 3d is a statue of Sle 
Anne with the Virgin; in the fourth one of Ste. Genevieve’ 
The Lady Chapel is circular, and of recent construction ; it has 
two finely painted grisailles on canvas, representing the Ado¬ 
ration of the Magi and the Presentation in the Temple Next 
in the northern aisle of the choir, is a Mater Dolorosa in 
plaster, with four angels on brackets, kneeling. In the chapel 
of St. Vincent de Paule, is the statue of that saint; in that of 
St. Paul, is a monument to Boileau, said to be interred here - fl) 
and two good paintings, Christ delivering the keys to Peter 
and the angel delivering St. Paul from prison. In the ad¬ 
joining one is the Archangel crushing the Demon and a 
inarhle monument to another of the Douglas family’ Earl of 
Douglas and Angus, who died in 1611. The north transept 
contains the tomb of Casimir, King of Poland, who abdicated 
his crown in 1668, and died ahbot of the monastery in 1672- 
the king is on his knees, offering up his crown to heaven, and 
in front of the tomb is a fine bas-relief of one of his battles 
! he , P resen h»tion in the Temple, the colouring and design 
of which bear traces of a pupil of Bubens. The paintings hi 
the northern aisle of the nave are : the Death of Sapphira bv 
Leclerc (1718); St. Germain distributing the presents of Childe- 
bert to the poor, by Steuben ; the Entrance of Christ into Je¬ 
rusalem; the Baptism of the Eunuch, by Berlin (1718)- and thp 
Raising of Lazarus, by Verdier (1677).' The pulpit, of white 
marble, is of elegant design. Two flights of steps lead to it 
from the southern aisle ;il is flanked by two statues in bronze 
by Jacquot, one allegorical of the Mosaic law, the other of thp 
Christian faith. The front is adorned by three bas-reliefs in 
bronze; the lateral are arabesques, and the one in the middle 
represents the Saviour preaching. The canopy is supported 
by two caryatides in bronze resting on marble pedestals. The 
other objects worthy of notice are, the organ over the prin! 
cipa entrance, the baptismal font in the north-western chapel 
richly sculptured in marble, and inlaid with gilt bronze and 
facing the southern aisle, a statue of the Virgin, the same 
which Queen Jeanne d’Evreux gave to the abbey-church of St 
Denis, surmounted by a tasteful Gothic canopy, and surrounded 
by a gilt railing The tomb of Childebert, that formerly stood 
m the middle of the church, is now at St. Denis. For a de 
scnption of this, and of the interesting discoveries made in the 

(l) The best authorities place Boileau’s remains in the Sainte Chapelle, 


HOTEL DES MONNAIES. 371 

opening of other tombs of this church, as well as for the ge¬ 
neral history of the abbey, the reader is referred to the History 
of Paris, (l) The dimensions of the church are 200 feet in 
length, 05 in breadth, and GO feet in height. 

After leaving this most interesting church, and passing into 
the rue Sle. Marguerite, the visitor will perceive, nearly at the 
corner of this street and the rue de l’Echaudee, the gloomy 
prison of the Abbaye, or Maison d’Arr&t Militaire, with a small 
turret at each corner. (See Prisons.) Following the rue de 
1’Echaudee, he will arrive in the rue de Seine, and by the small 
passage du Pont Neuf, one of the first established in Paris, will 
pass into the rue Guenegaud, leading to the Quai Conti. The 
stranger will perhaps be reminded by these names that he is 
on a spot immortalised by the genius of Sterne; and though he 
may no longer meet with similar adventures on the Pont Neuf, 
he will still find booksellers’ stalls on the Quai Conti, where 
femmes de chambre still pass, though not always escorted by 
a sentimentalist like Sterne, or followed by a valet like Lafleur. 

On this quay is the 

Hotel des Monnaies. —A mint is known to have existed in 
Paris under the second race of kings, and to have been placed 
somewhere in the royal palace of the lie de la Cite. It was 
afterwards established in the rue de la Monnaie. This building 
falling into ruins, the government determined to pull it down, 
and erect a new mint. The site of the Hotel de Conti having 
been judged eligible for that purpose, ils demolition was begun 
in 1708. Plans were furnished by Antoine, and the first stone 
of the present structure was laid on 30th April, 1708, by the 
Abbe Terray, comptroller-general of the finances. It was 
finished under the direction of the former, in 1775. The prin¬ 
cipal front is 300 feet in length, and 78 in elevation. It is three 
stories high. In the centre is a projecting mass with five ar¬ 
cades on the ground floor, forming a basement for six columns 
of the Ionic order. These columns support an entablature and 
an attic, ornamented with festoons and six statues. The front 
towards the rue Guenegaud is 348 feel in length. Two pavi¬ 
lions rise at its extremities, and a third in the centre sur¬ 
mounted by a square cupola. On the attic stand four statues, 
representing Fire, Air, Earth, and Water, with slabs bearing 
appropriate distiches. The intermediate buildings have only 
two stories. The ground plan includes eight courts, of which 
the central one is the most spacious. It has two pavilions facing 
each other, each bearing a pediment; the southern one has four 

(i) History of Paris, 3 vols. 8vo., Galignani and Go. There is also a 
history of the abbey by Dom Bouillard, who was one of the learned 
Benedictines of the society. 


372 TENTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 

Done Pillars, in front of which are busts of Henry II., Louis XIII. 
Louis XIV and Louis XV. The central arcade of the principal 
ront leads into a vestibule, adorned with 24 fluted Doric co- 
umns. On the right is a staircase decorated with sixteen Ionic 
eo umns, and containing a bust of Antoine, the architect, placed 
on a pedes al ; in the antechamber above is a line coining-ma- 
chine by Thonnelier; and next is a magnificent saloon, called 
the Muste Monetaire, adorned with 20 Corinthian columns in 

mpn.p’ !n!] PO r tin§ a ,?. al,ery * In lhis room is contained an im- 
nense collection ol the coins of France and other countries 

c assed chronologically, besides the medals struck on various 

public occasions. The monetary collection of France begins 

? ? ? S Chlldebert L > of lhe date 511-668, and is nearly 
complete to the present day. Among them the gold pieces of 

iea i.T’tL 6 tmie °/ T L ° UiS are of ^markable 1 size and 
beau^. The series of Louis XIV. are magnificent coins, and 

: e J, n ere j tm ,& a8 showin S the monarch’s portrait from child- 
hood to death. The collection of English coins is good; the 

1421 ie m Tli C e°nlrf in ? ? 3 h , alf gold no,)Ie of Heni T VI., date 
rei^n of T, ! oqh ^ 1)an,sb coin 18 of lhe Y ear 680, under the 
mafLi h m 1 ms ° f lhe Goths ‘ Here 100 will be re- 
after Mexic f n money » S( I uare lumps of metal stamped 

after being merely weighed; some curiously rude monev 
tamped by Napoleon during the siege of Caltaro; the C™gne 
lozenge-shaped nx-daler, date 1683; money of King Otho of 

ney'date mo 5? Z™™'’ m ° n ? ° f ° 0n Miguel; Turkish mo " 

f e 1730-54, of very great intrinsic value, containing 996 

parts of pure gold out of 1000; the money of the Liberalm* Ra 

hvar; of the United Slates of America,"bad spJjfmSis ete 

mon 0 the medals will be observed one of Charlemagne an 

invaluable relic, of most excellent execution, wortb/of’the 

o wS ?, p Rome ’“ VH - <lale '««. the earliest medal 

!lLT! v!n L* IS,r , lal , llie . exists i Boccaccio; Louis XII. 
n y re "’ ,ancis !•; Ignatius Loyola; Francis II., and Marv 
Queen of Scots; Cardinal Richelieu, a superb medal by Varin > 
for winch that artist’s life was spared; the Convent o/the Val 

® G J! ace ’ and of l‘ ie states of Languedoc. To these should be 
added the complete series of Louis XV., XVI. the Republic 
le Empire, and down to the present time, the whole forming 
an unnvaHed national collection. In adjoining rooms are mo § 
dels ot the furnaces, instruments, etc., used" in cn in in' and' 
proving money. There is also a splendid colossal marb e ° bust 
of Napoleon, executed for Foucbe by Canova in 1806 and i 
model in bronze of the mask taken from the Emperor’s face 

Of-he visi, 


IldTEL DES MONNAIES. 373 

at St. Helena 20 hours after his death; a model of the pillar of 
the Place Vendome in bronze, peculiarly interesting, as dis¬ 
playing the statue of Napoleon which adorned the column be- 
lore the Restoration, in his imperial robes. It was executed 
by Brenet, in the proportion of 1 to 24, and cost 6000 fr. A 
glass case contains a representation in wax of the has reliefs 
with which its shaft is encircled. Returning to the first room, 
a door opposite the entrance to the right leads to the staircase 
of the Gallery, on ascending which, the visitor will find a room 
partly filled with specimens of mineralogy, and metals in their 
refined state, and partly with the dies of counters, honorary 
medals, tokens, etc., coined under different reigns. From this, 
passages right and left, containing dies of coins and historical 
medals, from Charles VIII. to Louis XIV., and from Louis XVIII. 
to Louis Philippe, lead to the last room, which completes the 
series with the reigns of Louis XV., XVI., the Republic, and 
Napoleon. The visitor, on retracing his steps, will enter the 
gallery of the first room, which is filled with dies of medals 
struck on particular occasions, or for public societies, com¬ 
mercial companies, and private individuals. Here also, in a 
glass case near a window, are ancient seals of various reigns. 
A very copious and learned catalogue is published of the 
whole, with detailed descriptions of the medals; and, from its 
low price of 3 francs, the visitor will do well to possess such 
a work. Among the medals will be remarked one commemo¬ 
rating the birth of the King of Rome, with his bust. Medals of 
which the dies are retained are sold to visitors for the benefit 
of the establishment at a trifling cost; but of the coins of 
which only one specimen exists, or of which the dies are lost, 
casts exactly resembling the originals are exhibited in the 
cases of the museum, the originals being carefully preserved 
but not shown to the public. In the Hotel des Monnaies are 
performed all the operations of coining, besides the assaying 
and stamping of the gold and silver for jewellers, etc., who 
are obliged by law to have every article stamped before it can 
be sold. It is also the seat of the general administration of the 
coinage of the realm. (1) On the ground floor, to the right of 
the entrance, is the laboratory, consisting of seven rooms, 
where metals are tested, refined, etc. Passing into the second 
court to the left, we enter the ateliers, newly fitted up, with 
numerous machines of the invention of M. Thonnelier, moved by 
a splendid steam-engine, and producing 60 to 80 coins per mi- 

(l) In France, besides the Hotel des Monnaies at Paris, there are mints 
at Bordeaux, Lille, Lyon, Marseilles, Rouen, and Strasbourg. Each has 
its officiers, hut all are subject to the authority of the Commission des 
Monnaies. 


32 


3% TENTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 

nule. The museum is open to the public on Tuesdays and Fri¬ 
days, and to foreigners with passports on Mondays and Thurs¬ 
days, trom l to 3. To visit the laboratory and ateliers, visible 
only on Tuesdays and Fridays, from 10 to 1, a special ticket is 
necessary for which write to M. le President de la Commission 
des Monnaies, Hotel des Monnaies. 

To the west stands 

The Palais de l’Institut.— The meetings of the Institute were 
held at the Louvre till 1806, when the government granted io 
them the College Mazarin, now called the Palace of the Insti¬ 
tute, on the Quai Conti. This edifice was founded by the will 
of Cardinal Mazarin, for natives of Roussillon, Pignerol, Al¬ 
sace, and Flanders, which had been recently conquered or 
annexed to the crown. These nations alone being admissible 
into the college, it look the name of Les Quatre Nations. The 
cardinal bequeathed to the college his library, the sum of 
2 ,000,000 livres for the expense of its construction, and a 
yearly revenue of 45,000 livres. This edifice was commenced 
m 1G6i » (*> after designs of Levau. The front forms the 
concave segment of a circle, terminated at the extremities by 
projecting pavilions, with open arcades in the basements. In 
the centre is the front of the church (now the hall where the 
public meetings are held), composed of four columns and se¬ 
veral clustered pilasters of the Corinthian order, surmounted 
by a pediment, in the shield of which is a clock supported by 
Art and Science personated in bas-relief. Above the front rises 
an attic, adorned with Composite pilasters, and pierced with 
tolty arched windows, the whole surmounted by a dome hav¬ 
ing a small cupola, and along the roofs of the pavilions which 
are ornamented with Corinthian pilaslers, are placed vases, 
in ront are two fountains, ornamented with lions in cast iron. 

i nn, there is an octagonal court adorned east and west by 
vo pavilions, fronted by Corinthian columns supporting sculp¬ 
tured pediments, and ascended by steps. Beyond Ibis is a 
vast rectangular one, lately completed, with new buildings 

°, f T, lliCl ; is of Do™ Corinthian archil 

formprl'v I, « llere lhe Acat| e mic des Sciences 

iormeily sat is now abandoned for a new and larger 

one. lhe remaining buildings are now tenanted by various 

oflicers and persons connected with the Institute. In the first 

comt a staircase, on the western side, leads to the public 

into^L 0 b V I1Stl f t ^ e; l and 9 d00r ’ 011 llie same side, opens 
into the corridor of the hall where the public sittings are held! 

(l) In 1842 , while making some excavations in one of the courts 

Tour^erJesie W ° rkmen discovered the walls of the celebrated 


PALAIS DE L’lNSTITDT. 375 

In the vestibules are the statues in marble of several of the 
great men of France, who have honoured the country by their 
intellect : d’Alembert, Montaigne, Mole, Montesquieu, Rollin, 
Montausier, Moliere, Corneille, La Fontaine, Poussin, Racine] 
Cassini, and Pascal. The Grand Hall is fitted up with benches 
forming a semicircle, in front of which are the seals and bu¬ 
reaux of the president, secretaries, etc. The recesses formed 
by the ancient chapels of the church are now used as galle¬ 
ries. The dome is richly ornamented, and the effect of the 
whole is imposing. The Hall is also adorned with marble sta¬ 
tues of Rossuet, Descartes, Fenelon, and Sully. The eastern 
pavilion of the same court leads to the Bibliotheque Maza¬ 
rine by a handsome staircase. Cardinal Mazarin possessed a 
library, formed by the celebrated Gabriel Naude, who col¬ 
lected the most scarce and curious books in France and foreign 
countries. It consisted of 40,000 volumes, which, in 1G52, were 
sold by a decree of the Parlement de Paris. To repair this 
loss, Naude, aided by Lapolerie, bought up for the Cardinal a 
great number of the works which had fallen into the hands of 
booksellers and private individuals. This second library Maza¬ 
rin bequeathed to his College. To these were added the library 
of Descordes, and that of Naude, who died in 1G55. All these 
works, added to the books possessed by the college, formed 
the Bibliotheque Mazarine. The manuscripts were removed to 
the king’s library, but others have since been acquired; and 
the collection, is now calculated to amount to 150,000 printed 
volumes, and 3,700 manuscripts. The library at present consists 
of an octagonal ante-room, a large gallery turning at right 
angles, 13G feet by 24, and a third room 54 feet by 24. All 
these have richly carved wainscoting, and Corinthian columns 
supporting a gallery. The principal room, where students are 
accommodated, occupies the site of the famed Tour de Nesle. 
It is adorned with many good marble and bronze busts, some 
of which are antique. The visitor will remark the busts of 
Mazarin and Racine, and the inkstand of the great Conde. It 
possesses also a very line terrestrial globe of copper, executed 
for the Dauphin by the brothers Rergwin, under the direction 
of Louis XVI., at which he is said even to have worked. It 
now bears the impression of a bullet with which it was struck 
from the Louvre, defended by the Swiss guards, during the 
Revolution of 1830. There is also a curious collection of mo¬ 
dels of Pelasgic monuments of ancient Europe, executed by 
the late M. Petit Radel, member of the Institute. The library 
is open to the public daily, except Sundays and festivals, from 
10 to 3 : the vacation is from August l to September 15. Itfis 
rather inconvenient in winter, as it is not heated. The Bihlio- 


376 TENTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 

theque de VInstitut is approached by a staircase from the se¬ 
cond court. It is peculiarly rich in all scientific works, both 
national and foreign, and contains complete series of nearly 
all the transactions and periodical publications of the scientific 
societies of the world. The number of volumes is about 1 00,000, 
and they occupy a long wainscoted room, ornamented with 
carved work, at the extremity of which is the justly-celebrated 
statue of Voltaire, in marble, by Pigalle. On each side is a 
gallery. Into this library no stranger is admitted without an 
introduction by a member, which it is easy to obtain. For in¬ 
formation respecting the Institut, its Academies, and the days 
and hours of their weekly meetings, see p. 72. The annual 
meetings of the Academies are held as follows Academie 
Franchise, the first Thursday in May;— Academie des Inscrip¬ 
tions et Belles-Lettres, the first Friday in July Academie des 
Sciences, first Monday in November Academie des Beaux 
Arts, first Saturday in October;— Academie des Sciences Mo¬ 
rales et Politiques, the first Saturday in April. The general 
annual meeting of the five Academies takes place on the 2d of 
May. On public occasions the members of the Institute wear a 
costume of black, embroidered with olive leaves in green silk. 
To obtain tickets of admission to these meetings the name of 
the applicant must be inscribed, at the office of the Secretary 
of the Institute, at least one month beforehand. The tickets 
are each for one person 
Opposite to this is the 

Pont des Arts.— This bridge, for foot-passengers only, takes 
its name from the Louvre, which, at the time when the bridge 
was constructed, was called Palais des Arts. It rests upon 
very narrow piers, and is composed of nine cast-iron arches 
with a horizontal wooden floor. This bridge, the first built of 
iron in Paris, was erected by a company, who are entitled to 
a toll of one sou for each person, for a certain number of 
yeais. The chord ot each arch is 66 feet, the length of the 
bridge is 616, and the breadth 30. It was built by MM. de Cessac 
and Dillon, and finished, in 1804, at a cost of 900,000 fr. The 
view from this bridge is very fine. 

The stranger now enters on the finest of the Parisian quays 
the Quai Voltaire, and, turning into the rue des Petits Augus¬ 
tins, arrives at the 

Palais and Fcole des Beaux Arts. —The school of the finearts, 
heie taught, is divided into two sections, one of painting and 
sculpture, the other of architecture, and distributes annual 
prizes to its pupils, who are instructed by a large body of pro¬ 
fessors. Those who gain the grand prize given by the Academie 
des Beaux Arts, on certain conditions, are sent to Rome, to 


PALAIS AND ECOLE DES BEAUX ARTS. 377 

study there for three years at the expense of the government. 
The students are instructed in all the various branches of their 
profession, and an exhibition of their works, as well as of those 
sent by the students from Rome, takes place every year. ( See 
page 81.) During the Revolution, M. Alexandre Lenoir had 
succeeded in forming a very extensive museum of all the mo¬ 
numents of the middle ages, and such other objects of art as 
could be rescued from the populace, who every where in 
France attacked and pillaged the churches, monasteries, and 
chateaux. With great enthusiasm and unwearied perseverance, 
that gentleman formed what was appropriately called the 
Muse'e des Monuments Francais, and the government appro¬ 
priated to it the buildings of the Petits Augustins. In 1816, how¬ 
ever, a well-intentioned but injudicious order of the govern¬ 
ment directed that these monuments should be replaced in the 
churches from whence they had been taken, or restored to their 
original possessors. The first part of the decree was carried into 
effect; and, among other churches, SI. Denis received back the 
treasures that had been so fortunately preserved by a patriotic 
individual. Rut the monuments, etc., formerly belonging to 
private families, in few instances returned to their rightful 
owners ; they underwent a sort of second pillage, and a very 
large proportion are for ever lost to the country. In 1820, a 
new edifice was begun in the convent garden, but was not 
carried on with much diligence till after 1830, when the arts 
received a new impulse from the public spirit of the monarch 
and the government. It has since been finished by M. Duban. 
The visitor approaches the Palais des Reaux Arts, either by the 
rue des Reaux-Arts, leading from the ruede Seine St. Germain, 
or by the rue des Petits Augustins; if by the former, he will pass 
through an ornamental iron gateway and railing closing the 
end of the street. From the rue des Petits Augustins, the en¬ 
trance court is separated by a dwarf wall, serving as a screen, 
having intervals filled up with open iron-work. On each side 
of the great gateway are busts of Poussin and Pujet, and in the 
court others of Jean Goujon and Delorme. In front is a Corin¬ 
thian column of red marble, on the top of which is the figure 
of an angel in bronze, one of several saved from a group pil¬ 
laged by the mob from the tomb of Cardinal Mazarin. Imme¬ 
diately behind it is the beautiful front of a chateau erected at 
Gaillon in 1500 by Cardinal d’Amboise, and transported thence 
by M. Lenoir. Refore proceeding farther, the visitor will remark, 
on each side, two piles of buildings of Ionic architecture; the 
southern one masks part of the ancient buildings of the con¬ 
vent ; the northern contains the bureaux of the Director and 
two amphitheatres for students. Retween this and the porter’s 


378 TENTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 

lodge is what formerly was the chapel, the front of which is 
formed of the portal of the chateau d’Anet, built for Diana of 
Poitiers, by order of Henry II., having three ranges of coupled 
columns of the Doric, Ionic, and Corinthian orders in succes¬ 
sion, and adorned with bas-reliefs and statues, the finest of 
which is a Cupid in the act of stringing his bow. The interior 
consists of a single nave with an arched roof pierced with 
skylights, and strengthened with elegant lie-beams and king¬ 
posts. Near the entrance is a screen connecting the walls, and 
consisting of an entablature supported by four columns of red 
marble, and pilasters of the Corinthian order. At the furthest 
extremity, is a splendid copy of Michael-Angelo’s Last Judg¬ 
ment, by Sigalon, on canvas, occupying the whole surface of 
the wall. In a chapel to the left, of hexagonal form, and 
crowned with a cupola, are casts of Moses, and two tombs, by 
Michael Angelo, one of which is the Tomb of the Medici; and 
also a fine cast of the bronze gates, by Ghiberti, of the Bap¬ 
tistery at Florence. The wainscoting is the same that adorned 
the chateau d’Anet. The nave is now used as a magazine for 
plaster-casts, among which will be seen a copy of the ele¬ 
phant that was to adorn the Place de la Bastille (see p. 287), 
a subject of some interest, since the original plaster model' 
which lately stood there, has been demolished. Here also are 
12 pendenlives copied from Michael Angelo’s great frescos in 
the Sisline Chapel at Borne. Beturning to the court, the vi¬ 
sitor will examine more minutely the splendid front of the 
ch&teau de Gaillon, which separates the first from the inner 
court. Its western surface is studded with brackets support- 
in a antique statues, and medallions, the inner court is semi¬ 
elliptical, its great axis being occupied by the front of the 
palace 240 feet in length by 00 in height, consisting of two la¬ 
teral pavilions connected by a central facade, with a plain 
rusticated basement, on which rest 12 attached and fluted 
Corinthian columns with 11 arched windows between, and 
surmounted by an attic story. The pavilions have plain Co¬ 
rinthian pilasters with square-headed niches. In front, on 
either side of the entrance, are pedestals with ten marble sta- 
tues, the work of as many French artists studying at Rome. 
Ihe court is Hanked by two arched screens, the southern one 
of florid Saxon style, with three arches; the northern one 
with four; the two central ones supported by a colossal pen¬ 
dant keystone, the whole in the style of the lime of Francis J 
Beyond this, in a garden, is a fountain, surmounted by four 
figures sculptured by Paolo Poncio. Underneath is an escut¬ 
cheon by Jean Goujon, and two seated figures by Germain 
Pilon. On the walls of the court, forming the curves, are spe- 


PALAIS AND EC0LE DES BEAUX ARTS. 


379 


cimens of old architectural and sculptural fragments, of which 
the following merit attention : a bas-relief of 1440- marble 
medallions with (lie heads of Titus, Vespasian, Claudius, and 
Galba; two antique lions, and a shield of metal walled in 
and embossed with mythological subjects. In Ihe centre of the 
court is a curious monolith basin, brought from the Abbey of 
St. Denis, 12 teet in diameter, and ornamented with quaint 
heads. An inscription shows it to he of the 13th century.— 
Interior. On entering the spacious vestibule, which is Corin¬ 
thian, staircases to the right and left are seen; leading to the 
upper stories. Next is the innermost court, where the visitor 
will read the following inscription on the opposite building- 
in gilt letters : s 


Inceplum Ludovico XVIII. 

Ludovicus Philippus peregit monumentum anno MDCCCXXXVIII. 

Underneath are medallions with the portraits of Leo X. and 
Lrancis I., the restorers of the arts; and facing them are corre¬ 
sponding likenesses of Pericles and Augustus. Round the walls 
are engraved the names of famous artists of all countries; the 
Englishman will be mortified to find here the name of only 
one countryman, Inigo Jones! This court is rectangular, and 
paved with marbles. On the walls to the right and left are 
fragments of antique tombs, etc., also a curious bas-relief 
representing a sacrifice. There are also statues of Cupid and 
Psyche, by Cavelier; Mars reposing, by Godde; and the Venus 
Pudica, by Vilain. On the opposite side is the entry to wh-t is 
properly the Lcole des Beaux Arts. Here what were once the 
cloisters of the convent have been turned into class-rooms for 
the students, etc., but the main building is modern, (1820,) and 
divided into two stories, appropriated to exhibitions of works 
of art. I he galleries on the ground floor contain casts and 
copies of architecture from the antique, separated into three 
divisions; one tor Grecian, the second for Roman, and the 
third for the arts of Europe in general during the middle ages. 
The amphitheatre for the distribution of prizes, etc., on the 
western side of the inner court, is semicircular, and, besides 
richly-gilt compartments in the cupola, contains one of the 
finest productions of modern art, representing on the walls, 
opposite the president’s chair, groups of the most celebrated 
artists of every age and country, assembled and presided by 
Zeuxis, Phidias, and Apelles, for the purpose of decerning 
prizes to successful competitors. It contains 75 figures, ofwhich 
70 are artists. One of the female figures, arrayed in a green 
mantle, is the portrait of the artist’s wife. This work is in oil 
on the wall, but is treated with all the freedom and force 


TENTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 


380 

which characterise a fresco, and stamps De la Roche as one of 
the greatest of modern painters : he is said to have occupied 
three years and a half in executing it, and to have received 
80,000 fr. for this work. From the ample amphitheatre the 
visitor is conducted to a saloon containing the first part of a 
series of portraits of the most eminent members of the Aca¬ 
demy. Here on a splendid chimney-piece of white marble, he 
will also see two angels, the work of Germain Pilon. From 
hence a passage leads to the Salle du Conseil , containing 
the remaining series of portraits. On the chimney-piece he will 
remark a bust of Louis Philippe, and in various parts of the 
room, 8 chandeliers of wood, carved and gilt, once the pro¬ 
perty of the old church (now demolished) of Ste. Genevieve; 
also two candelabra modelled upon originals found at Pompeii, 
and marble busts of academicians. Next is the Gallery of Prizes, 
divided into three parts by two partitions with Doric pilasters, 
and lit by 7 arched windows. Here is held the annual exhi¬ 
bition of works sent by the students at Rome, and of those 
executed for the annual prizes given by the school; the 
northern side being set apart for paintings, the southern for 
architecture. The walls are adorned with the pictures that 
have gained the grand prizes. Here may be seen the prize- 
works of the most eminent artists, such as Blonde!, Hesse, 
Pujol, etc. The collection begins with a painting by Natoire, 
of the year 1721. The exhibitions take place in September.’ 
Every six months there is a competition for admission to this 
institution of nearly 500 young artists; of whom 100 are chosen 
for painting and 10 for sculpture, who then study from antique 
and living models, under the direction of twelve eminent 
professors. The architectural section has a monthly competi¬ 
tion. The visitor will now pass to the Salle des Modeles, a 
room lit by 10 windows, and containing models of the most 
renowned monuments of Egyptian, Grecian, and Roman art. 
Though not yet completely classified, the visitor will remark 
the Pensile Gardens of Semiramis, the Parthenon, the Colyseum 
the Propyleion, the Amphitheatre of Nimes, the baths of Au¬ 
gustus, the triumphal arch of Orange, the leaning tower of 
1 isa, etc., all executed in the proportion of 1 to 100. On de¬ 
scending the grand staircase, he will not fail to remark its 
elegant design, and its rich incrustations in marble. A new 
amphitheatre for anatomy has been constructed south of the 
principal building, and further improvements are contemplated, 
the whole establishment is worthy of an attentive visit Fo 

reigners are admitted on application at the porter’s, from 10 to 4 
The visitor will now strike into the rue Jacob, leading to the 
rue des Saints Peres, where, at No. 24, lie will find the 


MARCHE ST. GERMAIN. 384 

Ecole Royale des Ponts et Chaussees.— This school dates as 
lar back as 1747, but it assumed no importance till 1784. The 
object of this establishment is to afford instruction in the art 
of projecting and constructing works relative to roads, canals 
bridges, ports, and public buildings dependent on them. It 
possesses a rich collection of plans, maps, and models, relative 
to these operations, as also a good library. The pupils are all 
taken from the ficole Polytechnique. The government of the 
establishment is vested in the Minister of the Interior, and the 
Director General des Ponts et Chaussees et des Mines. The 
present building, consisting of an entrance with fluted Doric 
columns, between two lateral pavilions, dates from 1845; and 
the museums, etc., not being yet classified, strangers are not 
admitted. A special order may, though with difficulty, be ob¬ 
tained for the purpose, by applying by letter, post-paid, to 
M. le Secretaire du Conseil General de VEcole Royale des 
Ponts et Chaussees, at the School. 

The stranger, returning to the Quai Voltaire, will find the 

Pont do Carrousel, ou des Saints Peres, a most elegant 
bridge of three iron arches on stone piers. It was built by M. 
Polonceau, in 1834. The iron framework, consisting of five 
large iron arches, between each couple of piers, connected by 
decreasing circular hoops wilh the upper bars, is formed on a 
peculiar plan, consisting of hollow pieces containing wood and 
pitch. It was erected by a company, at a cost of 1,030,000 fr., 
and a toll, producing on an average 160,000 fr. a-year, is paid 
on it by carriage and foot passengers. Its extremities have 
lately been adorned with four seated statues of stone on cast- 
iron pedestals, by Petitot, representing, on the side of the Tui- 
leries, Industry and Abundance; on the other, the Seine, and 
Paris. Though well executed, they will perhaps be considered 
too ponderous ornaments for so light a bridge. 

At No. 1, rue de Beaune, on this quay, is the hotel in which 
Voltaire resided for some time previous to his death, and 
where he died. His nephew, M. de Villette, kept his apartment 
closed afterwards, as did also Mme. de Montmorency, the next 
proprietor of the house, so that it remained unopened for 
forty-seven years. On this quay are shops of dealers in prints, 
books, and articles of vertu ; and the stranger will find it an 
agreeable and entertaining promenade. 

Near the boundaries of the eleventh arrondissement, to the 
north-west, lies the 

Marche St. Germain, built on the spot where once flourished 



382 ELEVENTH ARR0NDI3SEMENT. 

the Foire St. Germain. It is the most commodious in Paris, 
and was built, in 1811, by Blonde!. Its architecture is plain and 
substantial, and so laid out as to afford every possible advantage 
of light and air. The plan of the Marche St. Germain is"a 
parallelogram, 276 feet in length, by 225 in breadth. Each of 
the fronts has five entrances, closed by iron gates. In the gal¬ 
leries are nearly four hundred stalls, arranged in four rows, 
with a free and commodious circulation on every side. To the 
south of the principal structure is a similar building appro¬ 
priated to butchers, in the centre of which is a niche, with a 
statue of Plenty, by Milhomme, having on its pedestal a lion’s 
head, from which the water Hows into a basin. A guard-house, 
bureaux for the inspectors, and other dependencies, are attach¬ 
ed to the buildings. In the centre of the parallelogram is a 
fountain, which formerly stood in the place St. Sulpice in the 
form of an antique tomb, ornamented on all sides with bas- 
reliefs, representing Peace, Commerce, Agriculture, and the 
Arts and Sciences. Marble shells form the upper part of a vase, 
from whence the water falls into larger shells, where it sepa¬ 
rates into six small streams, and descends into square basins. 
A considerable sale of every description of birds takes place in 
the adjoining street, rue Lobineau, every Sunday morning. 
Around the fountain are four buildings, containing shops in 
which various articles of hosiery, etc., are sold. 

From the Marche St. Germain the visitor will proceed to 

St. Sulpice, parish church of the eleventh arrondissement. 
This splendid structure was begun in 1655, when the first 
stone was laid by Anne of Austria, according to the designs of 
Levau. The works were carried on successively by Giltard and 
Openhard, but from want of funds made little advance till 1718. 
The rector of the parish, however, Languet de Gergy, in 1742 
collected by a lottery sufficient money for the completion of 
the building. Servandoni finished the magnificent portico and 
front in 1745; the towers were raised, and altered, the southern 
one by Maclauren, in 1749, and the northern one by Chalgrin, 
in 1777 .—Exterior: The portico is composed of a double range 
of Doric columns, 40 feet in height, and is approached by a 
flight of steps intersected by the plinths of the coupled columns. 

It supports a gallery and colonnade of the Ionic order, frontin'* 
an arched gallery, with columns 38 feet in height; above the 
whole was a pediment, which, being destroyed by lightnin- 
in 1779, was replaced by a balustrade. Under the portico are 
three entrances to the church, with niches between, and five 
alti-rilievi above. The ceiling is in compartments, exquisitely 
sculptured. The summit of the northern tower is 210 feet 
high; on it is the telegraph that corresponds with Strasburg; 


ST. SULPICE. 


383 

on the southern one is that for Italy. Three bells of 12,500, 
8,500, and 1,800 pounds’ weight respectively were placed in 
the north tower in 1824. The northern tower consists of lour 
stories, successively of the Doric, Ionic, Corinthian, and Com¬ 
posite orders; the columns are fluted, and have open arches 
between. The uppermost story alone is circular, and crowned 
with a balustrade. The southern lower is of a different design; 
the upper circular story is Doric, resting on a square story with 
blunted angles. The portico of the south, distinguished by two 
rows of columns of the Doric and Ionic orders, is ornamented 
with statues of St. John and St. Joseph; that of the north pre¬ 
sents the Composite and Corinthian orders, with statues of St. 
Peter and St. Paul. The curved buttresses springing from the 
mass of the side aisles of the edifice to support the centre and 
roof are worthy of note. The back is formed of an elliptical mass, 
crowned with a dome, and an overhanging semicircular turret, 
and slender turrets containing winding stairs, flank the body 
of the choir. The plan of the building is cruciform; its total 
length 432, its breadth 174, and its height 99 feet.— Interior: 
Aisles surround both nave and choir, and chapels correspond 
to each arcade. The columns and pilasters are of the Corinthian 
order, and, together with every part of the edifice, are finished 
with boldness and beauty of execution. The vaulted roof of 
the church is elaborately ornamented, particularly in the choir, 
where the scroll-work of the transverse bands is exceedingly 
fine. At the entrance of the nave are two shells of the largest 
tridachna gigas known, resting upon curious rock-work in 
marble, executed by Pigalle: they were given to Francis I. by 
the Republic of Venice. The pulpit will attract the attention of 
the visitor; it is entirely supported by two flights of steps, and 
ornamented with figures of Faith, Hope, and Charity. The 
organ-gallery rests on twelve magnificent Composite columns. 
The organ, by Clicquot, is richly carved, presenting seventeen 
figures playing on musical instruments or supporting cornu¬ 
copia, and is the finest in exterior of any in llie capital. The 
principal figure is king David. On the pavement of the transept 
is traced a meridian line. The rays of the sun, passing through 
an aperture in a metal plate in the window of the southern 
transept, form upon the pavement a luminous circle, about 
10‘A inches in diameter, which moves across the line, and at 
noon is bisected by it. The peculiarity of this line is its being 
continued, for want of horizontal space, vertically along an 
obelisk of white marble, in the corner of the northern transept 
The vaulting of the cross contains four good paintings of saints 
in circular compartments; and underneath, at the entrance of 
the choir, stands the high altar, decorated with a profusion 


ELEVENTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 

ol splendidly-gilt ornaments, and separated from the nave by a 
balustrade of bronze and marble. It lias a bas-relief in bronze 
representing Christ preaching in the Temple, the work of 
M. Choiselin. the candelabra are of exquisite workmanship. 
The following are the principal works of art which adorn the 
chapels, beginning from the southern aisle. 1st Chapel: St. Paul 
inspiring the disciples with the Holy Ghost; St. Philip baptizing 
the steward ot the queen of Ethiopia; both by Boisselier.—2d. 
painted in fresco by Heim, with the Consolation in Death, the 
Efhcacy of prayers for the Dead, and the Trinity, in the ceiling 
—3d. St. Roch praying for the cessation of the pestilence; his 
Death, his Apotheosis, on the ceiling. In the spandrils of the 
arches are the personifications of the cities of Rome, Piacenza 
Cesena, and Aquapendente, all admirable frescos, by Abel de* 
P “J o1 ; ^th, painted in fresco by Vinehon, with passages of the 
life of St. Maurice. In the ceiling are angels bearing the crowns 
of martyrdom, and in the pendentives, figures of Religion 
fortitude, Hope, and Charity. On the altar is a marble statue 
of St. Maurice. 5th. A marble monument to Languet de 
Gergy. The prelate is kneeling on a sarcophagus, whilst an 

!"? e !Li Cha8es .^ eapl fr° m h* s side.—Beyond the transept is 
Gth. The sacristy, fitted up with richly-carved wainscoting.— 
7th. Jesus and the woman of Samaria; the Preaching of St. 
Paul. 8lh. The Guardian Angel; the Archangel crushing the 
demon. 9th. Ste. Genevieve and St. Germain, by Louise De- 

The Assum P ,ion ; the Virgin learning to read.— 
11 i. This is the Lady chapel, behind the choir, entirely en¬ 
crusted with marble, and adorned with the most gorgeous 
sculpture and gilding. The altar is Corinthian; the marble 
statue of the Virgin with the Infant, the work of Pigalle, stands 
in a recess lighted from above. The chapel has a double dome 
the upper one painted in fresco by Lemoine, representing the 
Ascension of Christ. On the walls are four paintings, the An- 
nundatmn, Visitation, Birth of the Saviour, and Presentation 
in the Temple, by Vanloo.—12th. St. Louis praying, by Drolling; 
St. Fiacre refusing the crown of Scotland, by Dejuinne.-isth 
St. Paul, by Mamin. 14th. St. Francois d’Assise, praying by 
Pierre, lGth. St. Charles Borromeo relieving the planie- 

T C ^l at i , ChriSt healin S the woman of Canaan’s 

daughter; both by Granger; the Marriage of the Virgin bv 

Antonio Pereda (1640).—16th. The baptismal chapel. After'the 
northern transept is the 17lh. In this chapel of the Sacre Cceur 
is some rich carving, by Brun, for which the altar is particu 
larly remarkable.-18lh. St. Vincent de Paule haranguin* the 
sisters o charily in favour of foundlings; the same assisting 
Louis XIII. m his last moments; both admirable frescos, by 


PALACE OF THE LUXEMBOURG. 385 

Guillemot. In the ceiling is the Apotheosis of St. Vincent de 
Paule.—20th. The fall of Lucifer; Tobias conducted by the 
angel Raphael; both by Remond.—21st. The Baptism in the 
Jordan; the Martyrdom of St. Lawrence, by Cuny. On the 
piers of the choir and transepts are statues of the twelve 
apostles, on brackets. In the windows of several of the chapels 
is some old stained glass, and the windows of the choir are 
adorned with modern specimens of the same. Underneath the 
church are very extensive vaults. The towers may be ascended, 
and the upper gallery is worth visiting. 

When Servandoni completed the structure of St. Sulpice, his 
intention was to form a large square in front of it, and to erect 
two fountains opposite the towers. The “place” was formed 
in 1754, but no fountain erected until, at the peace of Amiens, 
that which is now in the Marche St. Germain was placed there 
by order of Napoleon. A monumental fountain, after designs 
by Visconti, is now placed on the square of St. Sulpice. It 
consists of three concentric octagonal basins intersected by 
sculptured plinths. From the centre of the uppermost rises a 
quadrangular body, flanked at the corners with fluted Corin¬ 
thian pilasters, between which are circular niches with base¬ 
ments for four statues, which will shortly be placed there. An 
elegant entablature crowns the whole. A flower-market is 
held on this place on Mondays and Fridays. On the southern 
side stands the Sdminaire de St. Sulpice, a large plain build¬ 
ing, erected in 1820, which contains a theological library of 
20,000 vols. (See p. 93.) 

In the rue Garanciere, No. 10, is a fine hotel, formerly 
belonging to the Duchess of Savoy. The front is adorned with 
a range of Ionic pilasters, having for volutes boldly-projecting 
ram s heads; it is now the mairie of the llth arrondissement. 
A new and very handsome one is to be erected in the rue du 
Pot de Fer, opposite to the church, the cost of which will be 
600,000 fr. Opposite will be seen a small barrack, lately 
constructed for the gendarmerie. In the same street is a 
fountain, erected in 1715 by Anne of Bavaria, widow of the 
Prince of Conde. 

Near this, at 39, rue du Cherche-Midi, is the Hotel de Tou¬ 
louse, where all courts-martial of the 1st Division are held, and 
to which a military prison has lately been added. 

On the place de l’Odeon, at the east end of the rue de Vaugi- 
rard, is the Theatre-de FOdeon. (See Theatres.) 

Palace of the Luxembourg, or of the Chamber of Peers. (1) 
Upon the site of this palace Robert de Harlay de Sancy erected 

(l) For a more detailed account of (his palace, and for some interesting 
anecdotes connected with it, see History of Paris, 3 vols. 8vo. 

33 


386 ELEVENTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 

a large house, in the midst of gardens, about the middle of the 
16th century. This mansion was purchased and enlarged, in 
1683, by the Duke d’Epinay-Luxemhourg, and was bought by 
Marie de Medicis for 90,000 fr. in 1612, when the present palace 
was built, after the designs of Jacques Desbrosses, upon the 
model of the Pitli palace, at Florence, the residence of the grand- 
dukes of Tuscany. It was then called by her name. On being be¬ 
queathed to Gaston de France, Duke of Orleans, her second son, 
it assumed the name of Palais d’Orleans, which it retained for 
a considerable period. It was afterwards ceded, for the sum of 
600,000 livres, to Anne Marie Louise d’Orleans, Duchess de 
Montpensier; and in 1672 became the property of Elisabeth 
d’Orleans, Duchess de Guise and d’Alencon, who, in 1694, sold 
it to Louis XIV. Afterwards it was inhabited by the Duchess of 
Brunswick, and by Madame d’Orleans, queen-dowager of Spain, 
on whose death Louis XVI. gave it to his brother, afterwards 
Louis XV11I., who occupied it till his departure from France, 
in June 1791. During the first years of the Devolution it was 
converted into a prison. In 1796 the sittings of the Directory 
were held there, and it was then called Palais du Directoire. 
When Bonaparte came into power, it was at first devoted to 
the sittings of the consuls, and received the name of Palais du 
Consulate and, shortly after, that of Palais du Scnat Causer - 
vateur. This senate held its sittings there till its dissolution 
in 1814, when the Chamber of Peers was created. Since that 
time a marble tablet over the principal entrance indicates its 
new appellation of Palais de la Chambre des Pairs. 

Exterior .—The edifice is remarkable for the beauty of its 
proportions, and the character of solidity it at the same time 
possesses. The court forms a parallelogram of 360 feet, by 300. 
The front towards the rue de Vaugirard consists of two large 
pavilions, connected together by terraces raised on open galle¬ 
ries, in the centre of which rises a cupola, surrounded with 
statues. This front is connected with the principal pile of 
building, by two arcaded corridors. Four large square pavi¬ 
lions terminate the angles of the main building, which consists 
ot a raised lower floor, an upper story, and attic. A new 
building screens entirely the lower and partially the upper por¬ 
tion of the back ot the original edifice. A new clock pavilion 
has replaced the old one; the upper part is ornamented with 
allegorical figures of Eloquence, Justice, Wisdom, Prudence, 
War, and Peace, by Pradier. They are fully 8 feet high. Two 
Genii crown the clock (constructed by Lepaule), with Renown, 
in bas-relief. The lower story is decorated with pilasters of 
the Tuscan order, the second with Doric, and the third with 
Ionic pilasters. The Doric generally prevails throughout the 


^ • y? . / * 

r r * 

PALACE OF THE LUXEMBOURG. 387 

building; the columns and pilasters are adorned withbossages, 
and the whole is maintained in the rustic style. The grand 
staircase was removed by Chalgrin from the central pavilion; 
and a new approach to the Chamber ol Peers, then the hall of 
the Senate, was erected in the right wing. This staircase is 
ornamented with a fine range of Ionic columns, between which 
are trophies and statues of some of Napoleon’s generals. 

Interior. —On entering the apartments attached to the Chamber 
of Peers, the visitor passes through a guard-chamber, and a 
waiting-room, adorned with statues of Aristides, Cincinnatus, 
Cicero, Leonidas, Solon, by Roland, and Pericles, by Masson, 
into the Salle dcs Messagers, where is a full-length statue of 
the late Duke of Orleans; and around the walls are paintings 
representing: Charles IX. receiving the keys of Paris, by Ca- 
minade; St. Louis, by Flandrin; the Duke of Guise (Le Ralafre) 
proposing the League to Harley, by Vinchon; and Charle¬ 
magne on his throne, by Bouehot. Next comes the Salle des 
Conferences, adorned with a full-length statue of the King, be¬ 
sides a colossal painting in wax by Signol, representing the 
most eminent legislators of the world from Constantine down 
to Louis Philippe, under the influence of the Gospel. From 
hence the saloon in which the sittings of the Chamber of Peers 
formerly were held leads to the new Salle des Seances, one 
of the most splendid halls in existence. It is semicircular, 92 
feet in diameter, and covered by an hemispherical vault, paint¬ 
ed by Abel de Pujol, in compartments, containing allegories 
of Law and Justice. In a semicircular recess or niche are the 
seats of the President and Secretaries, approached by steps. 
Eight composite columns support the cupola of this recess, and 
between them, on plinths, are the statues of Turgot, by Le- 
gendre-Herald; d’Aguesseau, by Maindron; L’Hopital, by Va¬ 
lois; Colbert, by Debay, sen.; Mathieu Mole, by Bare, jun.; 
Malesherbes, by Bra; Portalis, by Ramus. In the corners of 
the hall, in niches, are the statues of St. Louis, by Dumont, 
and Charlemagne, by Etex. In front of the tribunes are those 
of Marshals Massena, by Mercier; Lannes, by Debay ; Gou- 
vion St. Cyr, by Husson, and Mortier, by Brian. On each 
side of the recess is a large picture, that on the right re¬ 
presenting Louis XL with the Dauphin receiving the Deputies 
of Paris; on the left, Philippe de Valois congratulated by the 
Peers on the reforms he had introduced; both by Vauchelet. 
Immediately below the President’s chair is the tribune from 
which orators address the assembly; the seats of the Peers are 
placed around, rising gradually towards the circumference. (1) 

(») At the close of the session of 1846 the number of peers was 305, 
The highest number since its institution has been 342. 


388 


ELEVENTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 


The flooring is of iron, to admit of warming by steam in winter. 
Three galleries for strangers, on the same level, surround the 
hall, each presenting a front of six composite columns. Per¬ 
sons anxious to attend a sitting of the Chamber, and who can¬ 
not procure the medal of a peer, must write a few days be¬ 
forehand to M. le Gra?id Referendaire, Chambre des Pairs, for 
a ticket of admission. The Salle du Trone is richly decorated 
with tapestry of the manufacture of the Gobelins. Here stands 
the same state chair which Napoleon used to occupy as First 
Consul. Over it is a full-length portrait of Louis Philippe. In 
the middle of the ceiling of an adjoining saloon is represented 
Henry IV. in a car conducted by Victory, from the pencil of 
Barlhelemy. The other paintings are by Le Sueur, except 
two, representing Peace and War, by Callet. There are several 
other rooms, used for the bureaux, or committees, of the 
Chamber; but the finest in this part of the building is the new 
library, which extends the whole length of the garden front. 
It contains 15,000 volumes, amongst which are the journals 
and reports of the House of Lords. The library is not acces¬ 
sible for purposes of study without the permission of the libra¬ 
rian. In the centre is a hemicycle and cupola painted by M. 
Eugene Delacroix, representing the Elysium of great men as 
described by Dante. The poet is conducted by Virgil, who 
presents him to Homer, Horace, etc. Around the cupola are 
Alexander, Achilles, Pyrrhus, Hannibal, Caesar, Marcus Aure¬ 
lius, Socrates, Plato, Orpheus, Hesiod, and Sappho. The other 
parts of the ceiling are by MM. Riesener and Roqueplan. At 
the extremities of the library are statues of Montesquieu, by 
Nanteuil, and Etienne Pasquier, by Foyatier. In the circular 
parts are four small allegorical statues by Simart and Des- 
boeufs; also busts of Ba.rbe Marbois, Fonlanes, Cuvier, the 
Dukes of Albufera, de la Roehefoucault, and Richelieu ; Mar¬ 
shals Macdonald, Maison,and Jourdain; Marquises de la Place 
Lally Iollendal, and the Chancellor d’Ambray. The adjoining 
reading-room was decorated by Messrs. Boulanger, Scheffer^ 
and Picot. There are two allegorical statues by M. Jouffroy- 
and one of Gouvion St. Cyr, by M. Seurre. The new Chambei’ 
and its accessories, built under the direction of M. Gisors, cost 
4 136,000 fr. There are several other rooms attached to the 
Chamber of Peers on this story, but they are not usually 
shown to strangers. On the ground floor is the Chapelle de 
Mane de Medicis, a plain room, with a monument to Fene- 
lon ; a Christ and the Virgin, and a Crucifixion, by Philippe de 
Champagne. The altar now occupying the recess is the same 
that stood there in her time. Adjoining is the Chambre d 
coucher de Marie de Medicis , a splendid apartment, decorated 


PALACE OF THE LUXEMBOURG. 389 

in the sumptuous style of her time. The panels are all richly 
gilt and painted in compartments, four by Philippe de Cham¬ 
pagne, and four by Nicholas Poussin. The centre of the ceil¬ 
ing represents Marie de Medicis, by Rubens, and eight square 
compartments which it contains are by Philippe de Cham¬ 
pagne. There are also four paintings by Rubens in this room; 
three more are at the Manufactory des Gobelins, to be worked 
in tapestry. The scroll-work that covers the walls is exceed¬ 
ingly delicate and beautiful. At the Revolution the panelling 
and paintings were taken down and concealed, but were re¬ 
placed after the Restoration. 

Chapel .—The visitor will now be conducted to the Chapel 
of the Chamber of Peers. It is a parallelogram 69 feel by 20, of 
rich Doric design, and receives the light from the court through 
four windows. The vault is divided into compartments deco¬ 
rated and gilt in the rich style now so prevalent in modern 
French churches. The four circular compartments represent 
the four Evangelists; around are eight medallions representing 
angels, each holding an instrument of the Passion. AH these 
paintings are by Vauchelet. Opposite the windows are four 
large paintings by Gigoux, representing the apostle Philip, 
St. Louis pardoning traitors, St. Louis in Palestine, and the 
marriage of the Virgin; and behind the high altar the wall is 
entirely occupied by an immense fresco by Abel de Pujol, re¬ 
presenting the description contained in the fourth chapter of 
the Revelations of St. John. The altar itself is surmounted by 
an elaborately gilt niche, connected with the door behind by 
a wooden ceiling, under which, the posterior surface of the 
altar is enriched with an Adoration of the Shepherds, by Si¬ 
mon White, an American artist. In a niche in the wall oppo¬ 
site the altar is an admirable group of an Angel and two chil¬ 
dren, by Jalay; and the holy water basins are attached to 
richly sculptured marble pedestals, surmounted by angels. 

Gallery of Modern Art .—In the buildings on the eastern side 
of the courts is the gallery for paintings, formed by order of 
Marie de Medicis, and at first composed of twenty-four large 
pictures, by Rubens, representing the allegorical history of 
that queen. It was afterwards augmented by several pictures 
which belonged to the queen-dowager of Spain, and by others 
from the king’s cabinet. The gallery was long neglected, and 
about the year 1780 the paintings were removed to form the 
museum of the Louvre. (1) The pictures were brought back 
when the victories of Napoleon had filled the Louvre with the 
finest works of art in Europe, but were again removed there 

(1) Among them, besides the history of Marie de Medicis, were the his¬ 
tory of St. Bruno, by Lesueur, and the sea ports ofVernetand Joseph Hue. 


ELEVENTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 


390 

in 1815. The gallery is now appropriated to the reception of 
the finest works of living artists, purchased by the Govern¬ 
ment. Among them those of Delaroehe, Horace Vernet, Biard, 
Court, Deveria, Granet, Pierre Guerin, Le Tiers, Rioult, and 
Roqueplan, are particularly worthy of admiration. Near the 
entrance of the gallery is a line group of Cupid and Psyche, by 
Delaislre. Changes are continually taking place in the arrange¬ 
ment of this gallery, in consequence of the rule which or¬ 
ders the works of each artist, on his decease, to be removed to 
the Louvre. The ceiling of the gallery presents the signs of 
the Zodiac in twelve pictures, by Jordaens, and the rising of 
Aurora, by Callet. The stranger will also remark a line col¬ 
lection of modern vases and other objects in bronze, a present 
of M. Odiot to the collection. In the rotunda, to which the 
gallery leads, is the celebrated Bathing Nymph, by Julien. 
Beyond the rotunda, a gallery leads to four rooms, containing 
pictures and sculpture, from which a fine view is obtained of 
the grand staircase of the Chamber of Peers. The apartments 
of this palace can be visited every day, at the hours when the 
Chamber of Peers is not silling, and the Gallery of Paintings 
every day, except Monday, from 10 to 4, on applying with 
passport at the porter’s lodge. The gallery is open to the 
public on Sundays. Catalogues are sold on the spot, and will 
be found very useful. 

Garden .—'The garden was first planted by Desbrosses, at the 
time of the erection of the palace. In 1782, ihe finest trees were 
cut down, with the intention of building cafes, ball-rooms, etc., 
and establishing a fair. The ground thus cleared remained 
waste till 1801, but the fair was never established. The flower- 
garden, in front of the palace, with a large octagonal piece of 
water in the middle, is adorned with two statues, the Athlete 
and the Diana, and encircled with two terraces, ornamented 
on their borders with vases, and terminated at the extremities 
by stone balustrades, decorated with two groups in marble 
representing wrestlers, and four small figures supporting vases, 
in which geraniums blossom during summer. The parterre is 
prettily laid out, and contains two columns, surmounted by 
statues. The sloping banks from the terraces are planted with 
shrubs and Powers. A great number of other statues, most of 
which bear marks of revolutionary fury, are placed in diffe¬ 
rent parts of the garden, but are not of sufficient merit to 
deserve a particular description, (l) On the right is a planta- 

(i) This garden is now undergoing a course of embellishment, by the 
substitution of modern statues lor those mutilated and deformed ones 
which have long been an eye-sore in so delightful a promenade. The sta. 
lues by modern artists already placed here are Clolilde, by Klagemann • 


LE PETIT LUXEMBOURG. 394 

tion of lofty trees, intersected by walks; and on the left is a 
smaller one on an inclined plane, commanding a view of the 
whole garden. A beautiful fountain at the end of one of the 
avenues, the work of Jacques Desbrosses, has been lately re¬ 
paired. From the llower-garden extends a long avenue form¬ 
ed in 1 70S, the entrance to which is Hanked by two white 
marble lions, copied from the antique, and in the distance is 
seen the front of the Observatory. A handsome iron railing 
and lodges enclose the garden. On Hie right is an immense 
nursery-ground, called the Pepiniere clu Luxembourg, and on 
the left another space of a triangular form, which serves as a 
Botanical Garden to the Ecole de Medecine. Rows of orange- 
trees add to the beauty of this delightful spot during the sum¬ 
mer: a new orangery has been constructed, to the westward 
of the palace, near the Petit Luxembourg, where the Socie'te 
des Conferences Horticoles (seep. 87) holds its exhibitions. 
Seven gates afford access to this fine garden, which is open to 
the public from daybreak to dusk. M. Hardy, head gardener 
of the Luxembourg, gives periodical courses of gratuitous pu¬ 
blic lectures on the pruning and grafting of trees. 

To the west is 

Le Petit Luxembourg. —This hotel, which is a dependency of 
the palace of the Luxembourg, was commenced about the 
year 1G29, by order of Cardinal Richelieu, who resided in it 
while the Palais Royal was building. When he removed he 
presented it to his niece, the Duchess d’Aiguillon. It passed by 
descent to Henry Jules de Bourbon Conde, after whose death, 
Anne, princess palatine of Bavaria, occupied and repaired it. 
Under the Directory, four of the directors occupied the Petit 
Luxembourg, the fifth living in the palace. Bonaparte resided 
here six months, before he removed to the Tuileries. It is now 
the residence of the Chancellor of France, as President of the 
Chamber of Peers. Connected with it is a small prison, in 
which persons tried for political offences by the Court of Peers 
are placed during the proceedings. The ministers of Charles X. 
were confined here in 1830, and the latest tenants were Lecomte 
and Henry. 

Close by the gate of the Luxembourg Gardens, in the rue de 

Velleda, by Maindron ; ITippomcnes, by Otlin; and Valentine of Milan, 
by Huguenin. In the course of two years the following will also be 
placed here: A colossal statue of Charlemagne, by Etex; Sle. Genevieve, 
by M, Mercier; Jeanne d’Albret, by Briau; Blanche de Castille, by 
Dumont ; Jeanne Hachelte, by Bonassieux; Marie de Medicis, by Cail- 
louette; Marguerite de Provence, by Husson; Marie Stuart, by Feu- 
cheres; Anne de Beaujeu, by Getteaux; Anne de Bretagne, by Debay, 
and Clemence Isaure, by Preault. 


ELEVENTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 


392 

Fleurus, is the small Thedtre du Luxembourg. (See Theatres.) 

At No. 70, rue de Vaugirard, is the Convent des Dames Car¬ 
melites, formerly a monastery of Carmelite brethren. Part of 
the ancient religious house, with the Chapel, is still appro¬ 
priated to sacred purposes; the rest is occupied by private 
tenants. The chapel, dedicated to St. Joseph, is cruciform and 
of the Tuscan order. The foundation-stone was laid in 1613, by 
Marie de Medicis. The dome, painted by Flamel, is worthy of 
observation: the altar is lofty, and ornamented with pillars of 
black marble, having gilt bases and capitals. Under the com¬ 
munion-table is an ancient alto-rilievo, in white marble, re¬ 
presenting the Last Supper. The pictures are not remarkable. 
It was in this convent that the massacres began in Paris, in 
September, 1792. Hundreds of priests, imprisoned here, were 
murdered. An anniversary mass is performed for them in the 
church. This convent has long been famous for the well-known 
Eau de Melisse and the Blanc des Carmes, still sold here. 

At the corner of the rue du Regard is the Fontaine de Ldda, 
erected in 1806 by Bralle, ornamented with a bas-relief, by 
Vallois, representing Leda and Jupiter, under the form of a 
swan. The water Hows into a basin from the bird’s beak. 

At No. 17 in the same street is the Hospice Devillas, founded 
by a Protestant of that name in 1835, for persons of either sex 
of the age of 70 or upwards. The number of inmates is 35, 
four-fifths of whom, according to the will of the founder, are 
catholics, that creed being the preponderant one. 

The visitor may proceed from this spot, by the rues Notre 
Dame des Champs and du Mont Parnasse, to the 

Cimetiere du Mont Parnasse. —This cemetery, opened on the 
25th of July, 1824, is situated near the Barriere du Mont Par¬ 
nasse, in the midst of the Plaine de Mont Rouge. Its extent is 
about 30 square acres, and it is surrounded with a lofty wall. 
The entrance is by the Boulevard du Mont Parnasse, and con¬ 
sists of two plain pavilions. The capitals of the piers upon which 
the gales are hung are in the form of tombs, ornamented with 
funereal emblems. The ground itself is a parallelogram, skirled 
by lateral avenues, and two principal ones crossing each other 
at a rotunda in the centre. Several tributary walks run parallel 
respectively to these. Among the monuments occupying the 
circumference of the rotunda, the following are entitled to no¬ 
tice: Alexandre DeSenne, a distinguished artist; Deseine, a ce¬ 
lebrated statuary, wbo executed the monument of Cardinal Du 
Belloy in the Cathedral of Notre Dame (see page 312); Marquis 
of Bourbon-Conti; Boyer, the eminent physician; Guillemot, 
a painter, many of whose works we have had occasion to men¬ 
tion; the Duchess de Gesvres, the last of the family of Dugues- 


ECOLE 110YALE DES MINES. 393 

din. In the central avenue running from north to south is the 
tomb of Count de Montmorency-Laval, a handsome monument 
of white marble, surmounted by an urn. That running from 
east to west contains the tomb of Ottavi, a relation of Napoleon, 
and an eminent orator. In the western lateral avenue is the 
monument of Rear-Admiral Count d’Urville, a celebrated navi¬ 
gator, who in 1842, with his wife and son, fell a victim to the 
catastrophe on the Versailles railroad. In the southern avenue 
will be observed the tombs of the Duchess of Yallombrosa, and 
of De Guignes, author of the Chinese dictionary compiled by 
order of Napoleon. The avenue to the east contains the tomb 
of Roulay de la Meurthe, one of the Council of Five Hundred, 
highly esteemed by Napoleon. Near it, in one of the north¬ 
eastern secondary paths, is the monument of De Pouqueville, 
well known for his travels in Greece. In this cemetery are also 
the burial-grounds of the hospitals. In the south-western com¬ 
partments is the tomb of Pepin, executed with Fieschi and 
Morey in 1835 for a conspiracy against the life of Louis Philippe; 
his accomplices also where buried here, as well as Alibaudi 
executed for a similar attempt in 1836 ; but their tombs no 
longer exist. The burial place of common criminals is in a 
separate ground adjoining. This cemetery is now being consi¬ 
derably increased. 

On this Boulevard are the Grande Chaumiere, and Closerie des 
Lilas, celebrated, though not select, gardens of public amuse¬ 
ment in summer. (See Balls, etc.) Near the first will be per¬ 
ceived a large building intended for a Marche aux Fourrages, 
but about to be converted into a barrack. 

Returning by the southern gate of the garden of the Luxem¬ 
bourg, the visitor will find, at 46, rue d’Enfer, the entrance 
into the Jardin Botanique de VEcole de Medecine. The medicinal 
plants that will bear exposure to the climate of France are 
here cultivated, with a few others; each plant has a ticket 
bearing its names in the systems of Linnaeus and Jussieu. Open 
from May 1 to August 31, from 6 to 10 a.m., and from 3 to 
7 r.M. except on Sundays and Fetes. 

Lower down in the rue d’Enfer, at No. 34, is the 

Ecole Royale des Mines, and Mineralogical Museum.— This 
magnificent hotel, formerly called Hotel de Venddme, was built 
in 1707, by a society of Carthusian monks, and afterwards pur¬ 
chased by the Duchess of Vendome. The institution to which 
it is now appropriated was projected by Cardinal de Fleury, 
and commenced in 1783. The professors and directors of the 
school reside in the house. On the first floor is arranged the 
magnificent mineralogical collection of France, with the ge¬ 
neral collection formed by the abbe Hauy, and removed to it 


394 ELEVENTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 

from the Hdtel des Monnaies. This mineral museum fills sixteen 
rooms, four of which are occupied with models of the various 
machines and tools used in mining operations. Here may be 
seen a valuable collection of polished stones for useful and or¬ 
namental purposes; round the tables upright cases are placed, 
containing, in separate collections, the minerals of each de¬ 
partment of France. In the middle of these rooms is the splendid 
collection of all known minerals, the scientific arrangement of 
Which was commenced by Hauy, with all the crystals of every 
mineral arranged at the head of its class and subdivision, in 
wooden specimens. The geological collection of the Paris ba¬ 
sin, formed by Messrs. Cuvier and Brongniart, for their work 
on the geology of that district, is also arranged here; as well 
as a small collection of British geological specimens, one to il¬ 
lustrate the external characters of minerals; and a series of 
living and fossil conchology. To each specimen in all these 
collections its description and locality are attached by a small 
ticket. Additions are constantly made to this museum, which 
is open every day with passport from 11 to 3, and to the public 
on Tuesdays and Fridays at the same hours. The library 
containing 6,000 volumes, is open every day to students and 
strangers, on permission obtained on the spot. The ground- 
floor of the northern wing offers an extensive laboratory for 
the analysis of minerals. Gratuitous and public lectures are de¬ 
livered here on geology and mineralogy during several months 
of the year. (Seep. 81.) 

At the top of the rue de la Harpe is the place St. Michel, 
where a gate of that name formerly stood. On one side is a 
fountain, consisting of a large niche, occupied by Doric columns 
Supporting a pediment, and bearing an inscription by Santeuil, 
alluding to the neighbourhood of the colleges. 

Hoc sub monte suos reserat sapicnlia fontes, 

Ne lamen banc puri respue fontis aquam. 

In the rue des Gres, on the right hand, is the ancient chapel 
of the Convent of the Jacobins, now used as an elementary 
school ol the 11 Hi and 12th arrondissements. The adjoinin° 
building is a barrack lor the Garde Municipale, and is remark¬ 
able for its massive construction, and the square overhanging 
towers by which it is flanked. Nearly half-way down the rue 
de la Harpe, at No. 94, is the 

College Boyal de St. Louis.— A college was founded on this 
spot as early as 1280, by Raoul d’Harcourt, canon of Notre 
Dame, from whom it took the name of College d’llarcourt , It 
was rebuilt in 1675, and some part of the ancient structure still 
exists. The construction of the principal mass of the building 











COLLEGE DE LA SOREONNE. 395 

was begun in 1814, and the College opened in 1820. The court 
is spacious, and at the end is the chapel. On the other 3 sides 
are buildings 4 stories high, having galleries on the ground-lloor. 

In this street were several of the old colleges for poor scholars 
for which Paris was remarkable before the Revolution. Thus 
at No. 93 we may still see the old gateway of the College de 
Bayeux, founded in 1308 by Guillaume Bonnet, bishop of that 
place. At No. 89 was the College de Narbonne, founded by the 
archbishop Bernard de Targes ; and at No. 85 the Collegium 
Sagiense, established in 1634 by Gregoire Langlois, Bishop of 
Seez, and rebuilt in 1750. At present the inscriptions over the 
gateways are the only remnants of these institutions. 

Near this, in the rue Racine, a reservoir has been construct¬ 
ed, to receive the water from the basin of La Villelle, for the 
supply of the quartier St. Jacques. 

In the rue Monsieur le Prince, at No. 20, a doorway bearing 
the bust of Jean Goujon, Ranked by two figures in haut-relief 
representing Painting and Sculpture, marks the abode of that 
artist, formerly his property. 

A small street, rue Neuve Richelieu, leads from the rue de la 
Harpe, opposite the upper part of the College St. Louis, to the 

College de la Sorbonne. —This is built on the place of the 
same name, where a celebrated school was founded by Robert 
Sorbon, in 1253. The object of this establishment was to form 
a society of ecclesiastics, who might devote themselves exclu¬ 
sively to gratuitous study and teaching. The fame of this insti¬ 
tution, which became the head of the University of Paris, and 
conferred such renown on the Gallican church, is loo well 
known from its connection with the history of France to need 
any further allusion. The College du Flessis became absorbed 
in it; and in 1629, Cardinal Richelieu, who had graduated there, 
laid the first stone of the present buildings. Two Doric portals 
lead to a wide quadrangular court, surrounded by substantial 
buildings of simple design, varying from three to five stories. 
The church, begun in 1635, was not finished till 1659, and the 
whole was erected after the designs of Lemereier. Towards 
the street is a pedimented front of two stories witli Corinthian 
columns below and Composite pilasters above. Between the 
latter is a clock Hanked by two colossal figures in bas-relief. 
Behind the pediment rises a magnificent dome, on a drum with 
buttresses adorned with clustered Composite pilasters, bearing 
statues on their entablature; its surface is studded with small 
canopied lucarnes; it is crow'ned with a balcony, lantern, and 
cross. Two ranges of balustrades surround the body and attic. 
Towards the court is a fine Corinthian portico of bold propor¬ 
tions, with six columns in front, and four within, resting on a 


396 


ELEVENTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 


flight of steps, and crowned with a pediment also. The inferior 
is cruciform, of the Corinthian order, with chapels leading on 
each side from the nave and choir. The vault of the dome, 
painted hy Philippe de Champagne, represents the fathers of 
the Latin church. An oil painting by M. Hesse, of Robert 
Sorbon presenting his theological pupils to St. Louis, is curious. 
Above the arches and in the stained glass of some of the 
windows are the arms of Cardinal de Richelieu; and in the 
southern transept is his celebrated tomb, the chef-d’oeuvre of 
Girard on, executed in 1694,(1) and one of the finest pieces of 
sculpture of the 17th century. The statue of the cardinal, in a 
reclining posture, is sustained by Religion holding the book 
which he composed in her defence. Near her are two genii 
who support the arms of the cardinal. At the opposite extre- 
imty is a woman in tears, who represents Science deploring 
the loss of her protector. This monument is shortly to be re- 
m° v ed to the centre of the church, and another to the late 
Due de Richelieu, executed hy M. Ramey, will stand in its place. 

w buildings in Paris suffered more during the Revolution 
than the church of the Sorbonne, and such was its state of 
decay that part of the roof had fallen in, when Napoleon or¬ 
dered such repairs to he executed as were necessary to pre¬ 
serve it from total ruin. After the Restoration it was used as a 
lecture-room of the Law-school; but, in 1825, it was restored 

hniiw w ? rs,n P- n ls n ot used as a regular parochial church, 
set vice is performed here every morning at 8 o’clock and 
a so on Sundays and festivals. The interior is shown bv the 
porter at any time for a small fee. The college forms a large 
court, sombre, but grand, though almost totally devoid of anv 
architectural ornament. The professors have apartments here^ 
ie lecture-rooms are not sufficiently large. For a list of the 
numerous courses of lectures delivered here gratuitously the 
stranger must apply at the porter’s lodge. (See p. 75.)—The 
library under the title of Bibliotheque de la Sorbonne, con¬ 
tains 50,000 volumes, and is open every day from 10 to 2 and 

!o NovT 111118 liU 10 ’ feSUValS exce P ted * Vacation from Aug. i 

Rehind the Sorbonne, in the rue St. Jacques, are the remains 

Thirtye C ! U,, p 1 of , st * Benoit, converted after 1830 into the 
Thedtre du Pantheon, but now transformed into warehouses 

(O During the Revolution, the tomb of Cardinal Richelieu like 

Jf IS, M aS A desecrated > and his head paraded through the streets on a 
pike. M. Armez, father of the deputy of that name, contrived to gain 
possession of it, and bequeathed it to his son, who preserves it to the 

givelt up. ay ' A S,,it ’ “ iS said ’ wil1 he commencedlo compelVim to 


397 


HOTEL DE CLUNY. 

At the bottom ot the rue de la Sorbonne is the 

Hotel de Cluny , 14, rue des Mathurins, certainly one of the 
lm est remains of the ancient mansions of Paris of the 16th cen¬ 
tury. It was begun, on part of the ruins of the Palais desTher- 
mes, by Jean de bourbon, abbot of Cluny, about 1480- after 
his death, his successor, Jacques d’Amboise, continued it in 
1490, and it was finished in 1505. The turrets and richly orna¬ 
mented lucarne windows are the striking features of the ex¬ 
terior of this remarkable building, which encloses three courts 
and a garden. This most interesting mansion has passed through 
the hands of many tenants ; it has been the abode of several 
popes; in 1586 it was occupied by James, king of Scotland; in 1565 
it served as a refuge to the Cardinal de Lorraine; in 1625 the 
Abbess of Port Royal and her nuns took possession of it; from 
1579 to lt>84 it belonged to a troop of comedians; and the Section 
ot Marat held its sittings in it in 1793. At length it came into the 
possession of M. du Sommerard, a gentleman, whose taste for the 
line arts, and whose patriotic enthusiasm for the antiquities of his 
country, were only equalled by his learning and his urbanity 
He tormed here a most valuable collection of objects of art of 
the middle ages, sacred, civil, and military, and arranged the 
whole in chronological order. This precious collection has 
since been purchased from the heirs of M. du Sommerard for the 
sum of 200,000 fr., and the hotel for 390,000 fr., by government 
who have made additions, and formed it into “a museum of 
national antiquities : it is now thrown open to the public. An 
essay by M. du Sommerard, on the hotel and its contents, em¬ 
bodying much rare and learned information on the antiquities 
of France, comprised within the period known as “la Renais¬ 
sance,” price 5 fr., as also “ Notice sur l’Hotel de Cluny,” will 
alford much gratification to the antiquarian traveller. A com¬ 
plete catalogue of the Museum has been published, and is to 
be had on the spot. On the ground-floor are five saloons, fill¬ 
ed with curious carvings in wood and ivory, ancient furniture 
of splendid workmanship, paintings of the middle ages, reli¬ 
gious ornaments, stained glass, Flemish tapestry, fragments of 
sculpture, and plaster moulds of monuments of those times and 
ot the Renaissance. Among the objects most worthy of re¬ 
mark, wilt be found, in the 1st room, a Virgin adored by angels 
in mosaic; some fragments of old frescos, and a fragment of 
the gale of the Chateau d’Anet, the portal of which adorns 
the court of the Palais des Beaux Arts (see. p. 378); in the 2d, 
the sculptured arms of Jacques d’Amboise, and a fine canopied 
seat; in the 3d, a most splendid press from the vestiary of the 
Abbey of St. Paul de Leon inBrittany, and some valuable paint¬ 
ed trypticsj in the 4th, beautiful Arras carpets, representing 

34 


398 ELEVENTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 


the history ot Bathsheba, the personages are in the costume 
ol the lGlh century; in the 5th, three models in plaster of fa¬ 
cades proposed for the cathedral of Rouen, the smallest of 
which is in course of execution. The upper story commences 
with a gallery containing a collection of arms and armour of 
different descriptions, powder-horns, tools, locks, etc. Next 
tollow four saloons, in the first of which is a curious bed, and 
a glass case containing some beautifully preserved breviaries, 
prayer-books, and manuscripts, with miniatures, besides rare 
lurnitureand porcelain. The second, named after M. du Som- 
merard, and containing his bust, is remarkable for an almost 


complete collection ol furniture in ebony, curiously carved 
and inlaid; here also is a good collection of pictures of the 
15lh and l(>th centuries. The third saloon, called Chambre de 
la lteine Blanche , besides other objects of great rarity, con¬ 
tains a colossal chimney-piece with ancient bas-reliefs, several 
laige copper shields painted in enamel by Pierre Courlois 
(1559), and some excellent carvings in ivory; of these, two 
caskets, the first adorned with 51 scriptural subjects, the other 
with 37 small statues. A series of minute statues of the kings of 
Prance, in wood, is contained in a glass case. In the 4lh are 
valuable specimens of enamel, by Luca della Robbia, mir- 
iois, elc. In all these apartments there is a profusion of Fle¬ 
mish tapestry. From hence the visitor is led to the chapel, a 
most extraordinary monument. The ceiling is supported in 
the middle by a round pillar, from which the ribs extend along 
the vault, and terminate on brackets against the walls. The 
vault is loaded with tracery. The chapel receives light from two 
simple pointed windows flanking a recess, in which are three 
double windows with tracery. Here are sacred utensils, 
crosses, etc., a remarkable reading-desk and an altar-piece 
carved m three compartments, representing the Resurrection’ 
Abraham and Melchisedech, and the Last Supper. From the 
cnapel a winding staircase of most singular workmanship de¬ 
scends into a lower room, or vestibule, communicating on one 
side with the garden, and on the other with the court leading 
to the 1 alais des ihermes. This vestibule is nearly of the same 
esign as the chapel, only less lofty. It contains many inte¬ 
resting relics of ancient sculpture. The lucarne windows on 
the garden side deserve particular attention. Crossing the 

court, on the opposite side, the visitor descends into the re¬ 
mains of the 

Palais des Thermes, once the residence of the Emperor Ju¬ 
lian and the Roman government of Gaul, as well as of the 
kings ol the tirst and second races. A palace existed here long 
previous to the Emperor Julian, and is mentioned by Ammia- 


PALAIS DES THERMES. 399 

mis Marcellinus, in 3G0, and by Gregory of Tours. A deed of 
1138 styles it by the name it still bears, and recent discoveries 
leave no doubt of its having formed part of the residence of 
the emperors. It was bounded, towards the east, by a Roman 
road, now the rue St. Jacques, which, at the river side, was 
guarded by a strong tower. The garden of the palace extended 
on the west as far as the Abbey of St. Germain des Pres, which 
was built at the south-west corner of the enclosure; and a 
straight line, running from the abbey to the river, deter¬ 
mined the western boundary of the garden, which was also 
terminated by a tower. On the side of the hill where the Pan¬ 
theon now stands, near the Place St. Michel, was an amphi¬ 
theatre. An aqueduct from Rungis, two leagues beyond Arcueil 
(at the latter place two arches are still standing), has been 
traced under the Palais des Thermes, and was originally built, 
it is supposed, for the use of the imperial residence. The only 
perfect part of this palace remaining is a hall, presenting two 
contiguous parallelograms, the largest 02 feet in length, by 42 
in breadth, and the smallest 30 feet by 18. The vault which 
covers this hall is about 50 feet from the ground; it is substan¬ 
tially built, and above, for a number of years, was a thick bed 
of mould, cultivated as a garden, and planted with trees. The 
walls are surmounted with three grand arcades, the centre 
being the loftiest. In the southern wall the central arcade 
presents the form of a large rectangular recess, in which, as 
well as in the other arcades, holes are pierced, leading to the 
presumption that they served for the introduction of water- 
pipes to the baths. The masonry of this hall is composed of 
alternate rows of squared stones and bricks, covered in some 
places with a coat of stucco four or five inches thick. Beneath 
it are vaulted passages, evidently constructed for the emission 
of the water from the baths above. The thickness of the walls 
is surprising. Visitors cannot enter these passages without a 
guide, who receives a small gratuity. They extend under the 
neighbouring houses; and, from north to south, under the hall, 
runs the aqueduct, about two feet wide and one and a half 
deep, lined with cement. Another adjoining hall may still be 
traced to the west, and part of a third in a house to the south. 
The subterranean apartment, where the stoves for heating the 
baths are supposed to have been placed, is seen near the street, 
two narrow staircases in good preservation leading to it; 
behind it a well-vaulted sewer carried off the water to the 
river. Between the Palais des Thermes and the Hotel de Clnny, 
traces of a curious octagonal building of the 13th century have 
been observed. This interesting monument of antiquity had 
long been used as a workshop, and, after passing through va- 


400 ELEVENTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 

rious hands, was purchased hy ihe municipality of Paris, and 
an opening made to connect it with the Hotel de Cluny. The 
still existing hall is now filled with the relics of Roman sculp¬ 
ture dug up in Paris. The space once occupied by the adjoin¬ 
ing hall now contains the remains of a Roman road lately 
discovered in the rue St. Jacques. The Muse'e des Thermes et 
de rHotel de Cluny, as it now is called, is open to the public 
on Sundays from 12 to 4; strangers with passports are admitted 
at the same hours Wednesdays and Fridays. Mondays, Tues¬ 
days, and Saturdays are reserved for students, from 10 to 4. 
The visitor is recommended not to neglect visiting this unique 
collection. 

In the rue du Foin, at No. 18, is a house called, like many 
others in Paris, the origin of which is uncertain, the Hotel de 
la Reine Blanche. It is however of the time of Louis XIII., 
and contains nothing worthy of notice. At the opposite corner 
of the rue Boutebrie, is the ancient College de Maitre Gervais, 
founded in 1370, now used as a barrack for infantry. 

In the rue de l’Ecole de Medecine, No. 5, is the Ecole Royale 
Gratuite de Hessin, established in the ancient amphitheatre of 
surgery, and founded, in 1767, by M. Bachelier. The court is 
in the Ionic style, and over the arched gateway are caryatides 
in bas-relief of good execution. (See p. 82.) At No. 15,“ is the 

Musee Dupuytren.— It is only within a few years, and since 
the death of the celebrated surgeon whose name it bears, that 
the medical school of Paris could boast of a pathological col¬ 
lection. Dupuytren left 200,000 fr. for the establishment of a 
professorship of pathological anatomy. At the suggestion of 
M. Orlila, dean ol the laculty, the council ot the university 
then granted a sum towards founding a museum of morbid 
anatomy. The refectory of the ancient convent of the Corde¬ 
liers was purchased and arranged for the purpose. The front 
is Gothic, with an engaged octagonal turret flanking the gable 
The principal porch has a fluted elliptical arch. Next to “it is a 
smaller entrance, adorned with crocketled spires. In the vesti¬ 
bule is a bust of Dupuytren. The ball is lofty and spacious - in 
the centre is a marble bust of Pare, by David, and all around 
are glass cases in which the numerous specimens of diseased 
structures are placed. This museum contains many curious and 
raie specimens, some probably unique. It is especially rich in 
diseased osseous structures, and one or two of the luxations 
are exceedingly curious. The collection contains a heart in 
which the pericardium is wanting, and the extraordinary case 
published by Breschet, of the foetus within the walls of the 
uterus. In the centre ot the hall are numerous specimens of 
diseases of the skin from various causes, modelled in papier- 


ECOLE DE MEDECINE. 401 

mache. The unprofessional visitor must expect to find here 
many disgusting objects. This museum isopen to the public on 
1 hursdays from 11 to 3, and to strangers daily on application, to 
students on a professor’s order. Closed from Sept, l to Nov! 1. 

Adjoining the Musee Dupuytren, in the same court, is the 
Ecole Pratique d’Anatomie, or dissecting-rooms for the use of 
the students. Dissections are carried on here in the winter, 
and in the summer courses of operative surgery are conducted 
by the “ internes,” “aides d’anatomie” and the “agreges de 
la faculte.” 

To the west in the same street is the 

ficoLE DE Medecine, the seal of the Faculty of Medicine, in 
the Academy of Paris.—Medical schools were first established 
in Paris in 1469; and, in 1472-7, buildings for that purpose 
were erected in the rue de la Bucherie. hi 1618, an amphi¬ 
theatre for anatomical demonstrations was built; but, in 1776, 
the faculty removed to an edifice in the rue St. Jean de Beau¬ 
vais, formerly occupied by the Faculty of Law. On the union 
of the faculty of medicine with the school of surgery, they 
removed to the new school of the latter, the present edifice. 
The first stone of this building, after the designs of Gondouin, 
was laid by Louis XV., in 1769, on the site of the ancient Col¬ 
lege de Bourgogne; it was inaugurated in 1776, and is a speci¬ 
men of elegant architecture. The front towards the street is 
198 feel in length; the lateral wings are connected by a por¬ 
tico formed of a double range of coupled Ionic columns, inter¬ 
rupted by an arched entrance leading into a rectangular court, 
and surmounted by a bas-relief representing Louis XV., accom¬ 
panied by Wisdom and Beneficence, granting privileges to the 
School of Surgery, and the Genius of the Arts presenting to 
the king a plan of the building. The court is 66 feet by 96. At 
the bottom is a portico of six Corinthian columns, of large 
proportions, resting on steps, and surmounted by a pediment. 
The has-relief of the tympanum represents Theory and Prac¬ 
tice joining hands on an altar. The inner frieze of this portico 
bears medallions with the portraits in bas-relief of Pitard, de 
la Peyronnie, Pare, Marecbal, and Petit. The amphitheatre, to 
which it leads, can contain 1400 students. It is a hemicycle, 
lit by a skylight, and contains a monochrome fresco by Gibe- 
lin, dated 1775, illustrative of the utility of the Medical Science. 
For a list of lectures delivered here, all of which are gratuit¬ 
ous, see page 76. The hours, etc., which vary, may be learned 
on application at the porter’s lodge, or from the printed lists 
affixed, at the beginning of each academic session, to the doors 
of the lecture-rooms. The external portico leads to the grand 
staircase on the left. Beside it is a plaster statue of Breschet 


ELEVENTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 

counting the pulsations of a youth, by David d’Angers. On 
ascending the staircase, a door to the left leads to the library, 
a large room, with a circular skylight, containing 30,000 vo¬ 
lumes, and open daily to students from 11 to 3, and to stran¬ 
gers by permission to he obtained at the Bureau. It is closed 
Irom Aug. 15 to Nov. 15. A door opposite to the staircase leads 
to the Museum of Comparative Anatomy, highly interesting 
to the professional visitor. The first is a rectangular saloon 
with an arched ceiling, lit by skylights, and occupying the 
whole length of the attic over the portico. A gallery running 
round it is ascended by a winding staircase in the centre. The 
middle of the room is occupied by two rectangular railings, 
containing skeletons of the larger animals, such as lions, la- 
mas, etc. Beginning from the right below, the first object that 
calls attention is an extraordinary series of the acoustic organs 
ot small mammalia in two gilt frames. This work of patience 
>s due to the donor, M. Hyrtl, of Vienna. Next is the anatomy 
ol the nervous system, in a great measure due to the practised 
hand of M. Denonvilliers. A detailed exposition of the 5th pair 
ot nerves in the human head is truly astonishing for its exe¬ 
cution. Next comes the muscular system of mammifera, the 
osteology ot reptiles and birds; a valuable series of phrenolo¬ 
gical specimens, mostly consisting of the heads of criminals, 
among which, that of Fieschi, in a case next to the clock, dis¬ 
playing the fracture he received from his own infernal ma¬ 
chine. The osteology of the human skull is ingeniously exposed 
by a combination of springs holding asunder the sutures, which 
may be reconjoined at will. Next is a series of angiological 
specimens, injected. The general classification is according to 
the system of Mandl. In the gallery above is a series of em¬ 
bryology, etc. The eye, the organs of taste and smell, follow 
in succession. Next come the digestive organs, exemplified in 
the abdomens of various animals. The specimens of the lym¬ 
phatic system are injected with mercury. This part of the 
Museum is, however, greatly inferior to that of Florence, due to 
the labours of the immortal Mascagni. The circulation of the 
blood is exposed next in specimens of various animals, and 
great attention has been paid to the study of the anatomy of 
the human body by regions. Among the skeletons of insects, 
that ot the Scarabarus Melolontha, consisting of 77 pieces is 
remarkable. A marble statue of Cuvier stands at the furthest 
extremity of the room. The greatest praise is due to M. Orfila 
lor his exertions in lorming and enriching this museum. In the 
second room is a collection of anatomical and surgical instru¬ 
ments, filling 6 presses, among which, in one next to the win¬ 
dow, will be remarked the case of instruments used for the 


HOPITAL CLINIQUE DE LA FACULTE DE MEDECINE. 403 

autopsy of Napoleon. In the third room, among other anato¬ 
mical specimens, will be seen, under a glass hell, the model 
in wax of the dwarf Bebe, 20 inches high, born in the Vosges, 
and attached to the service of Stanislas, King of Poland he 
died in 17G4, aged nearly 25 years; also the organs of hearing, 
executed as magnified through a microscope. In the fourth 
room is a collection of substances belonging to the materia 
medica, and mineralogy. The fifth contains a cabinet of instru¬ 
ments of natural philosophy, and another room will shortly be 
opened, to receive the specimens not yet classified. This mu¬ 
seum is open to the public on Sundays and Thursdays, from 
1 to 3; but students and foreigners are admitted daily, on ob¬ 
taining an order from a professor, for which application is 
made at the porter’s lodge. It is closed from Sept. 1 to Nov. 1. 
The rest of the building contains rooms for demonstration, for 
the superintendents, and a council-chamber. 

Opposite is the 

Hopital Clinique be la Faculte be M^becine, a handsome 
new building, facing the School of Medicine, fronted by a por¬ 
tico of four fluted Doric columns without bases or plinths, sur¬ 
mounted by an entablature. It has been founded within the 
last few years, on the site of the cloister of the Cordeliers, and 
contains about 120 beds. The hospital forms a square, with a 
garden in the centre. It is appropriated to surgical diseases 
and midwifery. A course of midwifery is given here to female 
aspirants to that profession, who during their stay assist in the 
hospital. The average number of accouchements is 1000 a-year; 
that of surgical cases GOO. This is one of the most interesting 
medical institutions of Paris, and the only hospital of the kind 
to which students are admitted. Clinical lectures are given by 
the surgeon and physician, Jules Cloquet and Paul Dubois, the 
latter for obstetrics. Strangers are not admitted to these lec¬ 
tures without a card, to be obtained at the bureau of the Fa¬ 
culty of the School of Medicine, from one of the two professors. 
The public is admitted on Thursdays and Fridays, from 11 to 12. 

At the corner of the rue Haulefeuille, on the northern side, 
is a house of the 16th century, formerly belonging to a society 
of Premonstratensian monks. At No. 18, rue de l’Ecole de Me 
decine, in a back room, Charlotte Corday stabbed the infamous 
Marat, while in a bath, on the 13th July, 1793. At No. 24 is a 
fountain, consisting of a niche surmounted by a pediment. In 
the rue Hautefeuille, the following houses will all be found 
with ancient turrets: Nos. 23, 13, 9, and 5; also one at the 
corner of the rue du Paon, and 22, rue de 1’ficole deMedecine. 
The latter street leads into the rue de l’Ancienne Comedie, so 
called from the Theatre Francais having been formerly located 


^ 04r ELEVENTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 

in it. The theatre was about midway, and opposite is still the 
L-ate Procope, which was the resort of Voltaire and all the 
literary and dramatic celebrities of that day. Passing through 
the rue du Battoir, the visitor may remark the sculptured front 

of the nor hern wing of the Hotel Mignon, at the corner of the 
street ot that name. 

After crossing the rue St. Andre des Arts, we come to the 
_ T] ARCHE t,es Augustins, or a la Volaille, Quai des Augustins. 

in V«?n mai>k ^ r P ° ullry ’ also called La Vallee, was erected 

upon ,. lhe T slte of the church of the convent of the 

ralIc| d ^Up gUStm T» ItlSl)Ullt ofstone > and contains three pa- 

141 ti S i‘ J ! e entire length is 190 feet > and t,,e breadth 

but'nJnH. f yS arG Mondays ’ Fr i d nys, and Saturdays; 

F P t nf H • 3S T m 3S game ’ may be P llrch ased by retail daily. 
Fast of this, at No. 3, rue St. Severin, is 

dis S spm S p E n V t ERI f SeC01Kl diS ! rict Church of the Seventh arron- 

U erJ^exis'tTd nn^i 311 Y P6ri ° d ° f lhe French monarchy 

mere ex sted on this spot an oratory and cells, where St Se- 

Beted » ‘ he ■“»“*“« habit ^pon St. cioul 

the monastPrv t tlle ninth century the Normans destroyed 
of h T ? dlurch became Parochial about the middle 

f the eleventh century. The present edifice was built in 1210 

is S ‘of’ 3 ! 7 and H89 ' and re '—' in ,684 Its style 
s Goth c, of no mean pretensions. Over a canopied porch 

with reining arches resting on clustered columns, and flanked 

by croeketted spires, is a range of five pointed windows over 

winch runs a foiled balustrade. A large semicircular window 

of complicated tracery occupies the whole breadth of the nave • 

a second balustrade, similar to the former, connects two spTres 

isolated 8 n egable ‘ ^buttresses, connectin^S™ 

north ? IT 616 tUe fr ° nt lowards the south. To the 
in an elegant square tower, communicating by a flviii"- 

utlress with the gable, and surmounted by a singular p V ra & 
midal roof of the 15th century. The tympanum ofthe 

and Savimi°r l r t 1 bas_relief by R amus, representing the Virgin 

Iattal P cvLin n tW ° angels in the acl of adoration. The 
ateral elevation on the side of the rue St. Severin is comnosprl 

of five pointed and canopied windows. Between Se cS 

re projecting figures of various animals. The interior consists 

ttona a . Ve ThP Ch0h> ’ WUh d ° uble aisle * Tbe eastern end is oc- 
the roof has been 3S 3 tnf ° rium gallery round the church, but 

series of glazed windows?'Lof^y derestory w^ndow^urmount 
’ t le apse, are said to be of the date 1347; the 


ST. SEVERIN. 405 

apse and apsidal chapels are of 1489. The workmanship is 
good throughout, and a singular column with spiral cablings 
at the crown of the apse is worthy of notice. The moulding 
of the date 1347, as well as the key-stones of the vaults are 
elaborately worked. In most instances the mouldings of the 
ribs end in splays at the foot of the pier; in some they are 
clustered three together upon brackets. The Three-in-One is 
exemplified in some of the windows of the choir. Some fine 
stained glass remains in the choir, and in the sacristy, but that 
part of the church has been spoiled by alterations made at the 
expense of the celebrated Mile, de Monlpensier. Some of the 
capitals bear curious devices and figures of angels, etc. This 
church contains a few good pictures. In the 1st cliapel of the 
noi tb aisle is St. V incent de Paule relieving foundlings, by 
Ansiaux. In the 2d are, St. Peter healing the Lame, by Palliere; 
and the Death of Sapphira, by Picot. In the adjoining chapel, 
dedicated to St. Charles Borromeo, is a smali but excellent 
picture of the Cardinal visiting the sick of the plague. In the 
same aisle will be seen a bas-relief of 1547. In the 5th, is a 
Descent from the Cross; in the 6th, a dilapidated ancient fresco, 
evidently by a good hand. In the Lady chapel is a beautiful 
statue of the Virgin and Saviour, by Bridan. A marble group 
of a dead Christ with the Virgin deserves attention; and the 
chapel ofSte. Genevieve, in the south aisle, contains a tolerable 
picture of that saint, of the French school of the last century. 
Further on, descending along the southern aisle, is a beautiful 
Martyrdom of St. Sebastian, ascribed to Murillo. In the 9th, is 
St. Severin kneeling in prayer, by Pernot. The 10th chapel is 
now being painted by M. Flandrin, with subjects from the life 
of St. John the Apostle; the 11th, dedicated to Ste. Magdalen, is 
confided to the pencil of M. Mourat. In the 12th, is the Apo¬ 
theosis of St. Paul; and the 14th is receiving paintings by M. 
Signol, of passages in the life of St. Joseph. The 15th is the 
baptismal chapel, and is painted by the younger Flandrin, with 
the Preaching of St. John the Baptist, and the Baptism of Christ. 
This church would be a pure specimen of the florid Gothic, if 
the Doric pilasters of the choir did not mar the unity of the design. 


TwmiLWTm 

This arrondissement, which is one of the most extensive, 
contains so many objects of interest and institutions of im¬ 
portance, that to examine it as it deserves will require many 
days. (1) On entering it by the rue Galande, the visitor will im- 

(l) From an official statement the poor of this arrondissement are 



406 


TWELFTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 


mediately find himself within the precincts of the old colleges 
and in a locality, called from its classic associations “le Qnar- 
lier Latin.” He will pass hv the rue du Fouarre, one of the 
most miserable streets in Paris, hut one of Ihe most celebrated 
in the early days of the University. It then contained several 
schools, where public disputations were held, and is supposed 
to have derived its name from straw spread on the wound for 
the scholars to seat themselves on. The works of Dante, Pe¬ 
trarch and Rabelais contain frequent allusions to this street. 

In the next, called the rue de FHdtel Colbert, is a house 
No. 20, erroneously said to have been inhabited by that cele¬ 
brated statesman. The court is decorated with some bas-reliefs 
ol the time and style of Jean Goujon. 

At No. 13, in the rue de la Bueherie, will he found a small 
building, surmounted by a dome, formerly the School of Mc- 
dicine; and, farther to the east, at 53, Qua! de la Tournelle, so 
called Irom the great tower that formerly stood there, is the 
Pharmacie Central?, where the drugs and chemical prepara- 
tions for the hospitals of Paris are kept and distributed. At 
No 55 ,s a n ancient mansion, the Hotel de Nesrhond, a building 
ol the lime of Henry IV., now a Maison de Sante. 

On the wharf of this quay is a fruit-market, called the Maille 
w lere all the country produce that comes by water is sold. It 
is curious to see the immense quantity of fruit that arrives and 
is sold there daily. Hence the visitor may proceed to 
The Halle aux Veaux, rue de Pontoise, a market for the sale 
ol calves and cows on Tuesdays and Fridays, and on other 
days tor rags, etc. It is a large plain building, standing on the 
site of part of the chapel of the great convent of Bernardins • 
the remains ot which, of the 15th century, are to he observed 
m a house adjoining the market. The stables for calves are 
underground. One of the dormitories of the monastery with 
its buttresses and pointed windows, of the 13 th centurv still 

barrack’ faCmS the rue de Poiss Y> and is at present used for a 

Proceeding hence, the visitor will go by the rue de Poissv 
into the rue St. Victor, where, at No. GS, he will find a build¬ 
ing, the ancient Seminaire St, Firmin. The celebrated reformer 
Galvin resided for some time at this seminary. It was sun- 
pressed in 1700, and served as a prison during the reHi of 
terror. A dreadful massacre took place in it in the days of 
September, when ninety-one priests were murdered, (l) it was 


popStlonTf and am ° Unl l ° ab ° Ut onMmh » f lhe 

«i. The fo,Iowing is the C0 Py of a document referring to the above — 
The treasurer of the commune is to pay to M. Gilbert Petit 4S Iivres 


ST. NICHOLAS DU CHARDONNET^ 407 

subsequently used as an institution for the blind previous to 
the completion of the new establishment behind the Invalides, 
and is at present a barrack of municipal guards. At No. 7G is 
the ancient College du Cardinal Lemoine, founded in 1300. 
Few parts of the original building now exist. At No. 102, in 
the same street, and No. IS, rue de Pontoise, is the Seminaire 
de St. Nicolas du Chardonnet, a large plain building. (See p. 93.) 
Adjoining to it, but having its principal entrance in the rue 
des Bernardins, is 

St. Nicholas du Chardonnet, first district church of the 12th 
arrondissement.—Upon the site of this church stood a chapel, 
which became parochial in 1230; its reconstruction was com¬ 
menced in 1656, and finished in 1709. It is said to have derived 
its name from the waste ground on which it was originally 
built. The lower is earlier than the rest of the edifice, and is 
anterior to 1600. The front consists of two stories, the lower 
tonic, bearing a triangular pediment, the upper Composite. 
The interior is cruciform, with single aisles and a semicircular 
choir; its pilasters are Corinthian, remarkable for the anoma¬ 
lous absence of caulicles; however the general effect of the 
whole is good and imposing. The vaulting is semicircular, and 
the windows have circular arches. There is an unusual number 
of good paintings to be found in this church. In the eastern 
aisle the 1st chapel contains the Baptism of Christ, by Corot; 
lacing the aisle is the Agony in the Garden, by Deslouches; in 
the 2d chapel, is the Dream of St. Joseph, an early painting; in 
the 4th is SI. Nicholas receiving extreme unction, together 
with, strange to say, a mythological bas-relief! In the eastern 
transept, is the Communion chapel; the altar piece is Christ 
with the two Disciples at Emmaus, a valuable painting, by 
Saurin; and on either side, St. Paul preaching, and St. Justin 
refusing to sacrifice to the Gods, both by Noel Coypel. Here 
is also a good old Ecce Homo. In the 5th chapel is Paul be¬ 
fore Festus; in the 6th, a fine portrait of St. Francis de Sales 
in a medallion surmounting a handsome marble tomb by Au- 
guier and Girardon, in memory of Jerome Bignon; it bears his 
bust, and is flanked by the statues of Justice and Truth. In 
the 7 th, dedicated to the Sacre Cceur, are two medallions with 
marble bas-reliefs of Christ and the Virgin. In the 8th is the 

lor the time employed by himself and three comrades in the dispatch of 
the priests of St. Firmin during two days.—Commune house, this 4th 
September, in the year IV. of Liberty, and the 1 st of Equality, pursuant 
to the requisition made to us by the section of Sans-Culoltes who set 
them to work.—Signed, Nicout, Jerdme Lamark, commissioners of the 
commune, etc.” At the back is the receipt, signed “ Gilbert Petit, his 
Mark, X.” 


TWELFTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 


408 

Vision ofSle. Theresa, and a line painting of the Good Samari¬ 
tan. In the 9th is a good painting of Ste. Genevieve; the lOth, 
the Lady Chapel, contains a line group, by Bra, of the Virgin 
and Child. In its irregular cupola is the Assumption in fresco. 
In the 11 tli, is St. Louis Gonzaga saying mass, by Pinchon; in 
the 12th, is St. Charles Borromeo relieving the plague-stricken 
at Milan, by Lebrun. The ceiling of this chapel is by the same, 
and facing the aisle is the monument to that artist, and another 
to his mother. The former consists of a pyramid surmounted 
by his bust, by Coysevox; at the base are two statues, Reli¬ 
gion and the Fine Arts deploring his death. The latter, exe¬ 
cuted by Tubi and Cottignon, after designs of Lebrun, repre¬ 
sents the deceased issuing from her tomb at the sound of the 
last trumpet; the angel is particularly admired. In the 13th, 
is the epitaph to Santeuil, by Rollin, lately restored; and a 
good Annunciation. In the 14th, is St. Bernard performing 
mass, by Lesueur, and in the next, a bas-relief in plaster, re¬ 
presenting St. Peter in prayer; also the palsied man healed, by 
Sacquespee (1675). In the western transept is Christ raising 
the daughter of Jairus, by Vignaud; in the 1 5th chapel St. Vin¬ 
cent de Paule; in the next a Deliverance from Purgatory; and 
in the last, St. Catherine of the wheel. Facing the aisle, is an 
Entombment of Christ, probably by Mignard. In the same 
aisle, near the high altar, is a curious Crucifixion painted on 
wood, of the time of Albert Durer. The organ is handsome, 
adorned with statues and caryatides, and the choir has a great 
quantity of marble used in its decorations. The stranger will 
not regret having visited this church. 

At the corner of the rue des Noyers is the 

Marche des Carmes, or de la Place Maurert, established in 
1818, upon the site of the convent des Carmes.—Its plan re¬ 
sembles that of the Marche St. Germain; but it is less spacious 
and commodious. In the middle is a fountain, a pilaster sur¬ 
mounted by heads of Plenty and Commerce. 

The rue des Carmes and the rue St. Jean de Beauvais are 
interesting to the antiquary, as containing several of the old 
colleges of the University, now appropriated to other pur¬ 
poses. The largest ol these was once the College de Lisieux, 
the buildings of which still remain entire, and with the chapel, 
an edifice of the 14th century, are worthy of a visit. It fronts 
the Marche des Carmes, and is now used as the Magasin Cen¬ 
tral des Hopitaux Militaires, but cannot be entered without 
permission from the War department. In the same street was 
the College de St. Jean de Beauvais and the College de Presle, 
some remains of the latter of which may perhaps be made out. 
In it Peter Ramus was massacred during the St. Barthelemi. 


COLLEGE ROYAL J)E FRANCE. 409 

In the rue des Garmes will be found, at No. 23, the ColUqe des 
Lombards, once the principal Irish college, which, with its 
chapel ot the I7lh century, of rather curious design, still exists. 

In the rue de la Montagne Ste. Genevieve, at No. 37, is the 
Col ege dela Marche, now occupied by various families. Nearly 
opposite to it are the remains of the College or Sdminaire des 
Trente-Trois. At the top of the street is the Ecole Polvtech- 
mque, established in the buildings of the College de Navarre 
ot which a fine hall and chapel ot the 14th century still remain. 
,ew front has lately been erected to this inconveniently- 
placed institution, facing the old place, to which it now gives 
name. It is ornamented with bas-reliefs representing imple¬ 
ments and machines of war and peace (some of the latter very 
badly ), with live medallions on the attic, of Legrand, Laplace 
Monge, Bertholet, and Fourcroy. (See page 80.) Opposite is 
the ancient Fontaine Ste. Genevieve, built in 1625. 

In the rue des Amandiers, No. 14, stood the College des 
Grassins; its chapel is now demolished, to make room for the 
rue de l’Ecole Polytechnique, forming a direct communication 
between that establishment and the Place Oambray, in a court 
leading out of which, opposite the College de France, the vi¬ 
sitor will find a very curious square tower of the 13th century 
called La lour Bichat, or La Tour de St. Jean de Lateran : it 
contains a low vaulted apartment on the ground floor, a larger 
one above, and a third at the top. This tower is all that re¬ 
mains of the house of the Knights Hospitallers, established in 
1171, at Paris, afterwards known as the Chevaliers de Malte. 
In the adjoining Cour de la Vacherie, the antiquarian visitor will 
find, in the lar corner to the right, some curious remains of a 

chapel, of \ery early dale, now converted into a storehouse 
for carriages, etc. 

The College Royal de France was founded in 1529, by 
Francis I., at the solicitation of Parvi, his preacher, and the 
celebrated Budaeus. Professorships have since been founded in 
it by most of the sovereigns of this country, and, previous to 
the middle of the 16th century, 400 or 500 students regularly 
attended the lectures of this college. The wars and contagious 
disorders that afflicted Paris at the end of that century drove 
away the scholars and professors; but Henry IV., at the end of 
his reign, formed the project of erecting a new college, and 
had those of Treguier, Leon, and Cambrai, pulled down to 
make room for it. This intention, frustrated by his death, 
was partially carried into execution by Louis XIII.; it was 
again suspended till 1774, when the college was entirely rebuilt 
by Chalgrin. The buildings, of simple but elegant style, en¬ 
close three courts, the principal of which, facing the Place 

35 


^ 0 TWELFTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 

Cambrai, is entered by an isolated rusticated arch crowned 
with a pediment adorned with sculptures, and flanked with 
railings adorned with busts of Remusat, Vauquelin, Ampere, 
Sacy, Daunon, Portal, Andrieux, and Jouffroy; the left wing 
contains laboratories for chemistry, and lecture-rooms. The 
right wing gives access through a vestibule to the second 
court, separated from the third by a portico of coupled Doric 
columns, the latter court opens by a railing into the rue 
St. Jacques. There are two semi-circular amphitheatres for 
lectures; the one for chemistry has a laboratory adjoining. In 
the other, tor physics, are two paintings in oil; the first, by 
Lethiers, represents Francis I. signing the order for the esta¬ 
blishment ot the college; the other, by Thevenin, represents 
Henry IN. endowing the professorships. In the oriental lecture- 
room is a valuable painting, by Camus, of the Death of Jacques 
Deiille. In the upper stories are cabinets of mineralogy and 
natural philosophy, and a library. A prospectus of the nu¬ 
merous lectures delivered here may be had at the college 
(See p. 78.) Strangers are admitted without difficulty. 

A little higher up in the rue St. Jacques, at No. 123, is the 

College Royal de Louis le Grand.— This was formerly the 
College de Clermont , founded in 1500, by Guillaume Duprat 
bishop ot Clermont. The first stone of the chapel was laid 
by Henry 111., in 1582. The Jesuits bought it in 1563 and 
modified the institution according to the spirit of their order, 
this society being expelled from France in 1594, the college 
was abandoned, and, when recalled in 1604, they were for¬ 
bidden to reopen it, or to give instruction. It was not till igis 
lliat they obtained this indulgence, when, delivered from all 
lestnctions, they determined to rebuild their college. Thp first 
stone was laid on the 1 st of August, 1628, and it was erected 
alter the designs ot Augustin Guillain. Louis XIV., who was 
much attached to the Jesuits, having, on a public occasion 
called this college his own, the society immediately gave it the 

name Winch it now hears. The Jesuits being driven a second 

tune hoin t ranee in 17C3, the members of the college de Lisieux 
removed into tins building. In 1792, this college, organised 

i« *1800* tlmtVf p"’r Ce ' V r ' " le " ame 0f C ° llege de Mnalile; 

m 1800, that of 1 rytanee hrancais; in 1804, that of Lycee Im- 
periai; and in 1814, it resumed its former name of Colle'qe de 

, U C , 0nlaillS a ,u »ary and a good codec! 
lion ot philosophical instruments. (See page 7 ti) 

The stranger may now strike into the rue Soufflot on his 
ett, prolonged to the rue d’tnfer. On entering the Place du Pan! 
Iheon, he will lind, to the left, 11 

t he Scope de Droit, facing the Pantheon, and erected by 


BIBLIOTHEQUE STE. GENEVIEVE. £] l\ 

Soufflot, in 1771. The entrance is ornamented with four Tonic 
columns, crowned by a pediment, and the interior of the 
building, forming a circular arc, possesses some commodious 
lecture-rooms. The first establishment of regular schools of 
law in France dates from 1384, and the re-organization of the 
Faculty of Paris took place in 1762, by order of Louis XV. For 
a list of the numerous gratuitous lectures delivered here, see 
page 76, the hours, etc., of which varying, reference must be 
made to the printed lists affixed to the doors of the lecture- 
rooms. Here is also a public library of 8,000 volumes, open 
daily to the public from 10 to 3. Vacation from Sept. 1 to 
Oct. 31. 

A building of the same style of architecture is to be erected 
on the opposite side of the Place du Pantheon, and is to serve 
as the mairie of the arrondissement. 

The northern side of the Place is occupied by two new build¬ 
ings. The first and western one is the handsome front of the 
College Ste Barbe, ( see p. 80,) which stretches to the rue de 
Reims behind, of which it occupies a whole side. This impor¬ 
tant college, founded in 1730, by Jean Hubert, was on the point 
ol being dissolved in 1798 for want of funds, when some of its 
former pupils joined in partnership to support it. Their efforts 
succeeded ; and having annexed to it the buildings of the Col¬ 
lege des Chollets, founded in 1283, and part of the famous ec¬ 
clesiastical College de Montaigu, founded in 1314, the new 
buildings were commenced in 1841. The small gabled build¬ 
ing west of it is an entrance to a new hall for exercices and 
examinations lately added to the College Louis le Grand. The 
building east to it is the 

Bibliotheque Ste. Genevieve, presenting a front of 19 arched 
windows, erected on the site of the remaining buildings of the 
College de Montaigu, of which a small wing only is provision¬ 
ally retained as a reading-room to the Library, which is still 
contained in the buildings of the old Abbey of Ste. Genevieve 
contiguous to the College Henry IV. (see p. 412) till the new 
edifice be fit to receive it. When the Cardinal de Larochefou- 
cauld established in that abbey, in 1624, the regular canons of 
St. Vincent de Senlis, the community had no library. Shortly 
after the Fathers Fronteau and Lallernant formed a collection 
of about 10,000 volumes, which was afterwards augmented by 
Father Dumoulinet, who purchased several collections, in¬ 
cluding that of the learned Pierese. In 1710, Letellier, arch¬ 
bishop of Reims, bequeathed his rich and valuable collection 
to the abbey of Ste. Genevieve. The library at present con¬ 
tains about 200,000 volumes and 3,000 MSS. The present 
apartments contain several objects of curiosity, such as a series 


TWELFTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 


412 

of portraits of the sovereigns of France, from Philippe le Hardi 
to Louis XV., and also one of Mary Queen of Scots. The read¬ 
ing-room is open daily from 10 to 3, and from 6 to 10 in the 
evening, except on Sundays and festivals, and, during the va¬ 
cation, from Sept. 1 to October 15. 

In the contiguous rue des Sept Voies there existed formerly 
two more colleges: the College Fortet, founded in 1391, and the 
College de Reims, founded in 1412. A few traces of them may 
still be made out. j 

The College Royal de Henri IV. is established in part of the 
church and other buildings of the abbey of Ste. Genevieve, 
and will shortly be increased with the buildings occupied by 
the library. The western side is of the 14tli century; the upper 
part of the tower is of the 16lh, and the side towards the rue 
Clovis ( so called because the lower portion of the tower is 
said to have been built in his reign ) was erected as late as 1825. 
This institution was called Lycee Napoleon in 1802, and as¬ 
sumed its present name in 1814. The young princes of the 
reigning family in France were brought up at this college. 
(See page 79.) In the first court is a bust of Casimir Delavigne. 

The Pantheon, formerly the church of Ste. Genevieve, has 
three times changed its name.—Clovis, at the solicitation of 
his queen and Ste. Genevieve, founded near his palace a church, 
dedicated to the apostles Peter and Paul. To the church a 
religious community was afterwards attached, and in process 
of time the house became a celebrated abbey. Ste. Genevieve 
was buried, in 512, in this church, which was thenceforward 
dedicated to her, and she became the patron saint of Paris. The 
church of Ste. Genevieve having fallen into ruins, Louis XV. 
was induced by Mme. de Pompadour to erect one near it upon 
a large and magnificent scale. Designs presented by Soufflot 
were adopted, and, on the 6th September, 1764, the king laid 
the first stone. The cost of the building was defrayed by a 
lottery. At the corners, in front of the railing which surrounds 
the whole edifice, are two magnificent candelabra of cast iron. 
The portico, to which a flight of 11 steps, occupying the whole 
breadth of the front, gives access, presents a front of 6 fluted 
Corinthian columns, 60 feet in height by 6 in diameter, which, 
together with 16 internal ones, support a triangular pediment, 
129 feet in breadth, by 22 in height. The pediment contains a 
large composition in relief, by David, representing France, sur¬ 
rounded by, and dispensing honours to, some of the great men 
that have illustrated her. On her right hand are Fenelon, 
Malesherbes, Mirabeau, Voltaire, Rousseau, Lafayette, Carnot' 
Monge, Manuel, and David, the painter. On her left are figures 
representing soldiers of the republican or imperial armies, with 


THE PANTHEON. 413 

an animated figure of Napoleon in front. At the feet of France 
History and Liberty are seated, inscribing the names of great 
men, and weaving crowns to reward them. In the extreme 
corners of the pediment are figures of youths studying to emu¬ 
late the virtues of their predecessors. This bas-relief, although 
ably executed in its various parts, has been criticised for the 
stiffness that prevails throughout. The figure of France is 15 
feet in height. On the frieze beneath it is the inscription, in 
gold letters— 

AUX GRANDS HOMMES LA PATRIE RECONNAISSANTE. 

During the Restoration a radiant cross was introduced into the 
tympanum, and the inscription ran thus :— 

D. O. M. sub invoc. S. Genovefae. Lud. XY. dicavit. Lud. XVIII. restituit. 

Under the portico are bas-reliefs, representing Genius, Science, 
Art, Legislation, and Patriotism. The edifice is cruciform ; each 
limb of the cross terminating in a pediment. The two lateral 
fronts have also secondary entrances with bronze gates ap¬ 
proached by steps, which, however, do not improve their ap¬ 
pearance. A low Corinthian gallery, of later construction, is 
a most unfortunate addition to the eastern limb, and harmo¬ 
nizes badly with the unquestionable grandeur of the general 
design. From the centre of the cross springs a lofty circular 
drum, surrounded by a peristyle of 32 plain Corinthian columns 
resting on a stylobate. Above the entablature rises a majestic 
dome terminating in a lantern, surrounded by a gallery and 
balustrade resting upon consoles. This lantern formerly bore 
a gilded ball and cross. The total height of the edifice, from the 
pavement to the top of the dome, is 2GB feet, and the number 
of steps up to the highest gallery of the cupola is 475. The 
number of columns in the interior is 130; in and about the 
entire edifice, 258. The construction of three stone cupolas 
one within the other, each independent, is a curious feature of 
this edifice, and, from the lightness and elegance with which 
they are built, cannot fail to attract the attention of the scien¬ 
tific visitor. The plan of the church approximates to a Greek 
cross, 302 feet in length by 255 transverse; the external walls 
of the limbs are perfectly plain, with the exception of a frieze 
and cornice. Within, on each side of the limbs, is a gallery 
and colonnade, giving to each the appearance of a nave with 
aisles. Above the cornice of the colonnade, supported by Co¬ 
rinthian columns, which are fluted, and, with their entabla¬ 
ture, are of the richest style of decoration, a gallery and se¬ 
micircular windows are placed, throwing a strong light into 
all parts of the building. The breadth of each nave is 105 feet. 
The general effect of the interior is much marred from the 


414 TWELFTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 

adoption of the Greek cross, which scarcely admits of the 
dome coming into view. The vaulted ceilings are richly sculp¬ 
tured, and are 80 feet from the pavement. The dome, GG feet 
in diameter at the gallery, and rising over the centre of the 
cross, was originally sustained within by arcaded supports, 
which, from the imperfect manner of their erection, threat¬ 
ened, soon after being finished, to bring down the superstruc¬ 
ture ; they were therefore replaced by solid piles of masonry. 
On these piers are placed bronze tablets engraved with the 
names of those who fell in the Revolution of 1830, in gold let¬ 
ters. The painting of the dome is by Gros, who received 
100,000 fr. for its execution, and was created a baron on the 
occasion of Charles X. visiting the church. It is a tine compo¬ 
sition, extending over a superficies of 3,721 square feet. Upon 
the lower part are four groups, connected by figures of angels 
and other emblems, each of which represents a monarch of 
France, who, by the lustre of his reign or the influence of his 
age, formed an epoch in the history of the country. Clovis 
Chanemagne, St. Louis, and Louis XVIII., are the monarchs 
so designated; they render homage to Ste. Genevieve, who 
descends towards them on clouds. In the heavenly regions 
are seen Louis XVI., Marie Antoinette, Louis XVII., and Madame 
Elizabeth. A glory at the loftiest point indicates the presence 
of the Deity. The pendentives of the dome are covered with 
allegorical paintings by Gerard, representing Glory embracing 
Napoleon, France, Justice, and Death. During the Revolution, 
the walls of the interior of the church were ornamented with 
bas-reliefs relating to philosophical subjects; in 1826, these 
were replaced by attributes of Catholic worship. Three sta¬ 
tues are placed in the church, that of Justice in. the southern 
transept, of Clemency in the northern, and at the extremity 
opposite the porch that of Immortality, by Cortot, 18 feet high, 
bearing in her left hand a pen to record magnanimous actions, 
and in her right a crown of glory to reward them. A facsi¬ 
mile of this statue in bronze will be placed on Ihe apex of the 
lantern. The pavement ol Ihe church is formed of stone and 
marble interposed; under the dome it is entirely of marble 
with a fine circular mosaic, the exact span (33 feet) of the up¬ 
per dome. Underneath the church is an immense series of 
vaults, the entrance to which is at the east end. Those towards 
the east are lighted from the ground, and the vaulted roofs 
are supported by Doric columns. Some of the stones of the 
vault are 50 feel in length; the whole undercroft is constructed 
without any cement whatever. In those under the western 
nave, monuments and funereal urns are arranged somewhat 
alter the fashion of the Roman tombs at Pompeii. In the centre 


THE PANTHEON. 5 

are two concentric circular passages, where a loud echo re¬ 
peals the smallest sound. Within these vaults are deposited 
in temporary wooden sarcophagi, the remains of Voltaire and 
Rousseau, (1) with a fine marble statue of the former by Hou- 
don. Among the notabilities buried here are the illustrious 
mathematician, Lagrange ; Bougainville, the circumnavigator • 
the Dutch admiral, De Winter; Soufflot, the architect of the 
church; Marshal Lannes, Duke de Montebello, etc. Mirabeau 
was interred here, with great pomp, in 1791. The celebrated 
apotheoses of Voltaire and Rousseau look place the same year. 
Marat was buried here; but his remains, as well as those of 
Mirabeau, were afterwards depanthconised by order of the 
National Government. (2) In one of the recesses is a model of 
the building in plaster, in the proportion of l to 24, with sec¬ 
tions, which will give the visitor a clear idea of the general 
construction. Much has lately been done to isolate the" build¬ 
ing, and improve its situation. The visitor is strongly recom¬ 
mended not only to visit the vaults, but also to ascend the 
dome; which, being the most elevated building in the capital, 
affords a magnificent view. Strangers are readily admitted; a 
small gratuity is expected by the persons who show the edifice. 

Immediately behind the Pantheon is 

St. Etienne du Mont, parish church of the 12th arrondisse- 
ment.—This church was originally a chapel for the vassals of 
the abbey of Ste. Genevieve, and stood within its walls; but 
after the city walls had been extended by Philip Augustus, it 
was made parochial. The abbot was so jealous of the inter¬ 
ference of the Bishop of Paris, that the entrance to this church 
still continued to be through that of Ste. Genevieve, and re¬ 
mained so till the 17th century. The original date of the build¬ 
ing is said to be 1121; but no vestiges of this early erection 
are to be found. On being made parochial in 1222 it was en¬ 
larged ; and the curious square tower and circular turret are 
probably of that date; these have lately been restored by 
M. Godde. The church was much enlarged in 1491, and the 
choir increased in length in 1517. In 1537, both choir and naye 
were nearly rebuilt, and, in 1G05, some adjoining charniers, 

(1) On the tomb of Voltaire are the following inscriplions: “Poete, 
historien, philosophe, il agrandit l’esprit humain ; il lui apprit qu’il de- 
vait dtre libre.”—“ Il defendit Calas, Sirven, de la Barre, et Montbailly.” 
—“ II combattit les athdes et les fanatiques, inspira la tolerance, et rd- 
clama les droits de l homme contre la servitude de la feodalite.” On 
the tomb of Rousseau is the following: “Ici repose lhomme de la 
nature et de la veritd.” 

(2) The body of Marat, after being taken from the Pantheon, was 
thrown into a common sewer in the rue Montmartre, close to where 
now stands the Passage du Saumon. 


416 


TWELFTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 


now used for the catechumens’ rooms, were added. The first 
stone ol the portal was laid in 1610 by Queen Marguerite de 
Valois, and a tablet over the church-door remained till the 
Revolution, bearing an inscription to that effect. In 1624 the 
upper story of the tower was built, and the church was finally 
dedicated, and a new high altar raised, in 1626 . The oldest 
portions of the existing edifice are the lower stories of the 
tower and the northern aisle of the choir, which are not later 
than 1491 . The other parts are nearly all, except the western 
front, of the date 1637 , which is a most singular mixture of the 
Italian and Gothic. Four engaged composite columns, having 
their flutes intersected by carved bossages, support a rich 
triangular pediment adorned with modillions. The second 
story bears a circular interrupted pediment; and, lastly, the 
attic is gabled, and graced with a round window, and an el¬ 
liptical one above it, with tracery. The steeple tower is 
square, and flanked at one of its angles by a long slender cir¬ 
cular turret. The lateral and posterior parts of the church 
present a curious medley of flying buttresses, gargouilles, tur¬ 
rets, and spires, some of them of no mean workmanship/ The 
same incongruity ot architectural styles pervades the interior. 
The principal entrance has a circular arch. The church is 
cruciform. The eastern end is octagonal, and an aisle, with 
chapels in each arcade, goes round the whole. The windows 
retain the wide tracery, while the mouldings, capitals, and 
ornaments are of the modern Italian style. The principal ar¬ 
chitectural peculiarity of the interior is the great height of the 
aisle relatively to the rest of the building, which is on a level 
with the imposts supporting the vaulting-ribs of the nave and 
choir. Lofty attached columns with Doric capitals front the 
piers of the nave and choir; and in the vaulting spaces of the 
lateral walls, over the circular arches springing from the cen¬ 
tral columns, are small clerestory windows. Those of the aisles 
are lofty, some being filled with good stained glass, said to be 
by Pinaigrier. The tracery of the windows of the north aisle 
of the choir is peculiarly good. From the middle of each co¬ 
lumn, all round the church, excepting the large spaces at the 
entrance ot the transepts, circular arches are thrown from one 
to the other, supporting a very narrow gallery and balustrade, 
which encircles the columns on the side of the aisles. The 
arches of the choir are pointed; the ribs generally continue 
their mouldings to the base, ending in splays. The choir is 
separated from the nave by a magnificent and elaborate screen 
consisting of a low elliptical arch, formerly divided by mul- 
lions and tracery; two spiral staircases, of exquisite beauty 
and lightness, wind round the pillars at the entrance, and two 


ST. ETIENNE DU MONT. £y|7 

!kfir W n " Kht llno , , '- w ( . a >; s - c, ' ow "« l will! figures, separate the 
aisles. I he parapets of the staircases are particularly remark¬ 
able tor their rich perforated tracery. Above the arch are 
the statues of Christ and of two angels in the act of adoration 
the vaulting of the cross is ornamented with a pendent kev- 
stone 12 feet deep, supported by iron work in the middle and 
is most elaborately ribbed, and indeed almost all the key-stones 
both in the nave and chapels are beautifully wrought. This 
church is rich in pictures, and other objects of curiosity. In 
the first chapel, on entering at the western doorway, to the 
right hand, is a beautiful Holy Family in bas-relief, the Adora¬ 
tion of the Angels, and that of the Magi, on canvas; also two 
statues, one of Charity, by Laitie, the other of Hope, by Brun 
the next contains a curious picture of the Holy Family, and a 
good one of the school of Lesueur, representing the Martyrdom 
ot St. Stephen. Marble slabs contain a list of celebrated per¬ 
sonages buried in the parish. The window has some beautiful 
stained glass. A Last Judgment in the third chapel is to be no¬ 
ticed; in the fourth is a curious stained glass window of 15G8- 
and, in the fifth, a Crucifixion, with Louis XIII. and St. Louis 
introduced at the foot of the cross. In this chapel is a remark- 
able*Enlombment of Christ in stone, surrounded by the Virgin 
and six other statues of the size of life. There is also a fine 
picture, by Laval, of Paul and Silas before the magistrates of 
Philippi. In the chapel of the Sacre Ccenr the Adoration is the 
subject of a good picture; here also is the Death of St. Louis. 
In the 7th is St. Charles Borromeo, by Varin (1627). A fine 
painting of St. Bernard praying, and of the Jews collecting 
manna, occupy the first chapel in the south aisle of the choir 
On the wall, between this chapel and that of Ste. Genevieve^ 
is an epitaph on Racine, written by Boileau, and one to Pas¬ 
cal, who was buried in this church. The last-named chapel 
contains a tomb, supposed, from an inscription near it, to be 
the original depository of the body of the Saint, but which 
from its mouldings must be of the 13th century. The walls are 
hung with a vast number of votive images, etc. The altar is of 
white marble, of fine execution. Over the entrance is a large 
and fine picture, representing, according to report, Anne of 
Austria, attended by the Parlement, imploring Ste. Genevieve, 
who makes intercession for the life of Louis XIII. It is said to 
be by De Troy, and to have been painted soon after 1709: most 
probably, however, it is by Largilliere, and represents the 
Genius of France with the Parlement interceding with Ste. Ge¬ 
nevieve for the cessation of a famine which then raged. In the 
northern aisle of the choir is the pendant to this picture, one 
of equal dimensions, by Largilliere, painted in 1696, and re- 


418 TWELFTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 

presenting the Prevot des Marchands and the eity officers in 
lull costume, wilh a great number of spectators, among whom 
are Largilliere himself and the poet Santeuil, praying to Ste. 
Genevieve. They are said to he both votive pictures, offered 
by the City of Paris, and are worthy of a careful inspection. In 
the southern aisle there is also Jacob blessing Isaac, and the 
Preaching of St. Stephen, by Abel de Pujol.' In the apsidal 
aisle of the choir is a line Martyrdom of St. Stephen, by Lebrun, 
one of the best productions of that master; and a Preaching of 
St. Stephen, by Abel de Pujol. Farther on, in the chapel of 
the Virgin, are some fine frescos, painted by M. Caminade, 
namely, the Annunciation, the Adoration of the Magi, the Visit 
to Ste. Elizabeth, and the Death of the Virgin. Over the high 
altar will be observed the reliquary of Ste. Genevieve, and the 
Marriage of the Virgin is represented in one of the windows. 
In the aisle are two paintings by Grenier, of passages in the life 
ol Ste. Genevieve, and one by Jouvenet, St. Paul visiting the 
sick at Ephesus. In two chapels of the north aisle of the choir 
are pictures ol St. Francois Xavier, and one of Ste. Augustine, 
crowned with thorns. In the 1 st chapel of the northern aisle 
of the nave next to the transept, is the Plague of Paris, by 
Basse, and a Crucifixion; in the 2d, St. Louis in prayer; in’ the 
3d, the Nativity, and a good picture of the Guardian Angel, of 
the school of Mignard; and in the 4th, St. Stephen praying by 
Maillot. The pulpit of this church, the work of Lestoccard, 
after designs by Lahire, should be noticed; it is supported by a 
figure of Sampson, is ornamented with beautifully-carved sta¬ 
tuettes, and is surmounted by a rich canopy. On the festival 
of Ste. Genevieve pilgrimages are made to this church, and it 
is celebrated in Paris for the ceremonies that take place in it. 
Pascal, 1 ournefort the botanist, Lesueur the painter, P. Per- 
rault, Lemaitre, Racine, Rollin, and the Abbe deSacy ’were 
interred here. This church, from the rich effect produced by 
its architecture, its pictures, and its other ornaments, is one of 
the most interesting of the capital. The interior is a favourite 
subject with French artists of the present day, the general ef¬ 
fect being, in spite of all incongruities of architecture strik¬ 
ingly fine. 

The visitor will now follow the rue Glovis, leading to the rue 
des Fosses St. Victor, where, at No. 25, was the 
College des Ecossais.— This seminary was at first situated in 
the rue des Amandiers, but was afterwards established in the 
present building, finished in 1GG5. It was originally founded 
by David, bishop of Moray, in Scotland, in 1325; and again by 
.James Bealoun, or de Bethune, Archbishop of Glasgow, in 1603. 

A black marble slab, on the east side of the chapel door, re- 


COLLEGE DES ECOSSAIS. 419 

cords these tacts, in a Latin inscription, surmounted by the 
armorial bearings of the two founders. The college was rebuilt 
by Robert Barclay in 1665. This and the two other British 
colleges were suppressed at the Revolution, and the properly 
belonging to them was sequestrated. The government of Na¬ 
poleon embodied all the British colleges of Paris in one esta¬ 
blishment, under the authority of the Minister of the Interior, 
and gave them the Irish college, rue des lrlandais. Over the 
door was inscribed, Chef-lieu des Colleges Britanniques. Upon 
the Restoration, the former president of the colleges, and the 
other English Catholic clergy, claimed their properly. That of 
the Irish college was restored without difficulty, but that of the 
Scotch and English colleges was left in the hands of an admi¬ 
nistrator appointed by the government, and still remains under 
the control ot the Minister of Public Instruction for the purpose 
ol defiaying the expenses ot clerical education of young men 
chosen by the Catholic bishops of Scotland and England. The 
present administrator is Dr. Cillis, bishop of Limyra, represent¬ 
ed here by M. l’abbe Carre. Its chapel, which was erected in 
1672, and dedicated to St. Andrew, was repaired by M. Dcla- 
vigne, the head of a private institution now directed by 
M. Beauchef, which is established in the building. In the study 
ot the director is a lull-length portrait of the Pretender, in ar¬ 
mour. Resides the altar, which is richly sculptured, it contains 
some monuments of historical interest, and ought not to be 
neglected by the English visitor. The most remarkable is the 
monument of the unfortunate James II., erected to his memory 
by his faithful friend and the constant companion of his exile, 
James Duke of Perth, governor of his son, called James III., 
the Pretender. On the top of the monument was formerly an 
urn of bronze gill, containing the brain of the king, who died 
at St. Germain en Laye, the 16th of September, 1701. This 
monument, in black and white marble, was executed by Louis 
Gamier, in 1703, and bears a long Latin inscription. When 
the Irish college was made the chef-lieu of the British colleges, 
this monument was transported there, where it remained some 
years; but is now restored to its original place. In front of it 
is a slab, over the heart of the Queen; another over the entrails 
of Louisa Maria, second daughter of the king; and on one side, 
another over the heart of Mary Gordon, of Huntly, Duchess of 
Perth. Monumental tablets and inscriptions exist here in me¬ 
mory ol James Drummond, Duke of Perth, who died in 1720, 
and of the next Duke of the same name, who died in 1726; 
of John Caryl, Baron Dunford; Frances Jennings, Duchess of 
lyrconnel; Sir Patrick Monteith, of Salmonet; Sir Marian 
O’Conoly; Dr. Andrew Hay; Dr. Lewis limes, confessor to 


420 


TWELFTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 


James II.; and Dr. Robert Barclay. The valuable manuscripts 
of James II., which, as mentioned in the inscription on his mo¬ 
nument, were confided to this seminary, unfortunately disap¬ 
peared during the Revolution; but the Library still exists. 

Next door to this college is the convent of English Augustin 
nuns, which was the only religious house in Paris that was not 
disturbed during the Revolution. It is a plain building, with a 
small chapel, containing some English monuments. 

At No. 37, is a building of the same date and style as the 
College des Ecossais, which was formerly a religious house be¬ 
longing to the Peres de la Doctrine. 

The rues de Fourcy and de la Vieille Estrapade lead to the 

College des Irlandais, rue des Irlandais, No. 3.— -This is a 
handsome and commodious building, forming three sides of a 
spacious quadrangle planted wilh trees. On the ground-floor 
ol the right wing is the chapel, distinguished by its simple 
neatness. It was built after the designs of Bellanger, in 1780 
and is dedicated to the Virgin, who stands in marble over the 
altar. To the right of the Virgin, on entering the chapel, is a 
painting of St. Patrick, and on the left one of St. Bridget 
patroness of the Irish. In a vault beneath repose the ashes of 
several distinguished Irish. Above the chapel is the library 
containing a large collection of works, principally theological! 
It is said that James II. bequeathed his intestines to this college 
but no monument remains to indicate the spot where they 
were deposited. This institution, which was re-established by 
the french government, is under the direction of British 
subjects, who exercise their authority under the superinten¬ 
dence of the Minister of the Interior; and consists of an ad¬ 
ministrator, a prefect of study, a bursar, four professors of 
morals and of dogmatic theology, of philosophy, of classics a 
p iysician, and about 100 students. It is devoted to the educa¬ 
tion of young Irishmen, for the Catholic church, of whom 
ahout 25 priests graduate annually. A great number of bursar- 
ships belong to this college, which, by the exertions of the 
principal, Dr. M‘Sweeny, and the reputation of its learned pro¬ 
lessors, is m a very flourishing condition. The institution itself 
offers miich interest to the Irish Roman Catholic visitor. Similar 
establishments were founded at different epochs, and in dif- 

« oflhe kin §d°m, by permission and under the 
control of the Kings ol France. 

Returning l° the rue de la Vieille Estrapade, the visitor will 
find the entrance to a reservoir receiving water from the 
artesian well of Crenelle for the use of the Faubourg St 
Marceau. It is composed of two receptacles, each 98 feet by 50* 
and 15 teel deep, containing in all 147,000 cubic feet of water,’ 


ECOLE NORMALE. 421 

A third reservoir is to he constructed under it, to receive the 
water from Arcueil. That from Crenelle is at the temperature 
of 61 degrees Fahrenheit when it arrives here. 

The stranger may now enter the rue d’Ulm, and from thence 
the rue des Pastes, where, at No. 34, is the elegant buildin- of 
the College Rollin, and at No. 2 g, the 

Semina ire du St. Esprit.— This building was erected in 1769 
for a seminary, which was suppressed in 1792, and restored 
in 1815. It presents nothing remarkable, except a fine bas- 
relief above the pediment of the church, representing a mis¬ 
sionary preaching. (See p. 93.) 

Next door to this was the College des Anglais, a seminary 
established by letters patent granted by Louis XV., in 1684, 
which authorised Catholics, who could not be educated for the 
priesthood in England, to live in an ecclesiastical com¬ 
munity. The house was suppressed in 1792, and is now let 
lor secular purposes. 

Returning to the rue d’Ulm, the visitor will find, at its fur¬ 
thest extremity, No. 21, the 

Ecole Normale.— This spacious building, occupied since 
April 1847, by the establishment, for particulars of which 
see p. 78, is entered by a spacious court fronted by a pro¬ 
jecting pavilion, through which the visitor passes by a Doric 
vestibule into a large square court enclosed by the building. 
The architecture is in the style of the last century. Over the 
principal entrance are statues representing science and litera¬ 
ture ; and the brackets which adorn the walls of the inner 
court will soon be adorned with busts of the eminent men 
formed by the Ecole Normale since its institution in 1795. The 
number of pupils is nearly 100, of all persuasions. Spacious 
corridors lead to the lecture-rooms, cabinets of botany, zoology, 
lossils and mineralogy, natural philosophy, and laboratory of 
chemistry. Except the two latter, there is little remarkable in 
them. The library, on the first floor, is a spacious saloon, con¬ 
taining 20,000 volumes in fine oaken bookcases, and lit by 
11 windows. The Salle de Reception is somewhat smaller, and 
will, it is said, soon receive the portraits, in medallions, of 
Lagrange, Laplace, Haiiy, Daubenton, Monge, Berthollet, Vol- 
ney, Bernardin de St. Pierre, Suard, Garat, and Laharpe, who 
were the first professors of this celebrated school at the lime 
ot its opening, July 17, 1795. The chapel is on the ground 
floor to the west; it contains a fine Saviour by Lavergne. The 
dormitories occupy the second story; the refectories, two in 
number, are on the ground lloor to the north; under-ground 
are the kitchens, cellars, etc. This establishment may be 
viewed on Sundays at any time, and Thursdays after 4 o’clock. 

36 


TWELFTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 

Hie rue des Ursulines will lead the visitor nearly opposite to 

St. Jacques du Haut-Pas, 252, rue St. Jacques, second district 
church ol the 12th arrondissemenl.—On the site of this church 
a chapel, dependent on the hospital du Haul Pas, existed in 
the 14th century, lhe present structure was commenced in 
1630, the first stone being laid *by Gaston of Orleans, brother 
ol Louis XIII. W hen the choir was built, the works were sus¬ 
pended, hut were resumed in 1675, by the munificence of Anne 
de Bourbon, Duchesse de Longueville, and terminated in 1684. 
The aichiteclure ol this church consists, externally, of a 
triangular pediment supported by four detached Doric columns 
over the principal entrance; there are besides two lateral 
doors. The tower is square, and Doric also. The plan is slightly 
cruciform; the choir ends in a semicircle, and a single aisle 
surrounds both nave and choir. The northern aisle alone is 
llanked by chapels; the southern one of the nave has none, 
the 1st chapel in the former contains the font; here is a 
good St. Jerome, by Hubert. In the 2d is a Holy Family by 
Delanoe, and a good Virgin and Child on wood, of the 16th 
century. In the transept is a fine Entombment, by Degeorffes- 
and against the piers of the entrance to the choir are two 
plaster statues, one of St. Philip, by Grienewald, the other St. 
James, by Foyatier. In the choir, over the sacristy door, is the 
Presentation in the Temple. Next is the 3d chapel, containing 
St. Philip preaching to the Phrygians, by Jacquard, and the 
.f.PP eann S t0 Theodosius, by Coutan. In the 4th, is 
St. Philip presenting Nathaniel to Jesus, by Holfeld, and the 
nacle of the loaves and fishes, by Champmartin. The 5th is 
Hie Lady Chapel, of elliptical form, with a fine statue of the 
lrgm and Child; a Visitation and an Annunciation, both bv 
Bouterweck, and four small paintings by Barret; St. Joseph 
with Jesus in his arms, St. Louis, St. James, and Ste. Catherine. 

A well executed painting of the Virgin and child and aMagdelen 
by Mine. Sommesson, will also be remarked. In the 6th are, Jesus 
Christ appearing to St. James, by Goyet, and his Calling of 
St. James and Judas by Lestang. In the 7th is the Lapidation 
of SI. James and St. James as Bishop of Jerusalem, by Jon- 
quie 1 es In the 8th is a good old St. John. The 9th is the cha¬ 
pel o St. Peter, with some excellent paintings: Jesus healing 

Fn e n Slep Tr ' ei , ° t bt ; Peter ’ b T Calvaert; Religion, Hope, 
Faith, and Charity, m four tableaux, by Lesueur a St Peter 

by Restoul (1728), and a Shiite Pcirvulos, by Gerard. * In the 
10th is a good Ste. Genevieve. Cassini, the astronomer was 
buried here, as well as the learned La Hire Cochin, rector ol 
the parish, and founder ol the hospital, etc 
, Next door to this church is the 


INSTITUTION ROYALE DES SOURDS-MUETS. £23 

Institution Royale des Sourds-Muets.— For this institntirm 
France is indebted to the celebrated Abbe de 1’Epee who 
without patronage, and with a fortune not exceeding £500 a- 
year, undertook to maintain and bring up at his own expense 
more than 40 deal and dumb pupils, whom he instructed to 
read and write, to comprehend all the difficulties of grammar 
and to reduce the most abstract metaphysical ideas to writing! 
The Abbe de 1 Epee was first brought into notice by the Em¬ 
peror Joseph II. on his visit to the French capital in 1777. TIis 
sister, Queen Marie Antoinette, soon after visited the school 
and the institution was ordered to be transferred by Govern¬ 
ment to a convent ofCelestins, which had been suppressed. 
J ms, however, was not carried into effect till 1785. The Abbe 
de 1 Epee, dying in 1790, was succeeded by the Abbe Sicard 
who improved the system of instruction. During the Revolution 
this institution was transferred to the buildings of the Semi- 
uaire de St. Magloire, rue St. Jacques, where it still continues 
the number of gratuitous pupils is 80; besides 10 admitted to 
half pensions, and 10 to three-quarter pensions. At present 
there are 110 male and 50 female pupils. The number of 
boarders is unlimited. To be admitted gratuitously into the 
institution, the child must be full 10 years old, and not ex¬ 
ceed 15, and must present a certificate from the authorities of 
his or her parish, of age, baptism, vaccination, being really 
deaf and dumb, and without the means of paying for educa¬ 
tion. The boys and girls are in different schools,' where they 
remain six years, and are taught reading, writing, arithmetic 
drawing, engraving, or some trade. The terms'for boarders 
are 900 fr. a-year, besides 300 fr. paid on entering. From 
90,000 fr. to 100,000 fr. are annually voted by the Chambers for 
the support of this institution. The Salle des Exercices is Doric 
and adorned with a fine picture of the Abbe de l’Epee, by the 
donor, M. Camus; also the busts of de l’Epee and Sicard. The 
refectories, dormitories, etc., are large and airy, and arranged 
as in the institution des Jeunes Aveugles. (See p.357.) A garden 
is annexed to the establishment. The chapel is Doric; behind the 
altar is a remarkable oil-painting by Vernet, of Christ healing 
a deaf shepherd, and to the left is a picture of good execution by 
Peyson, a deaf and dumb artist, representing the Abbe de 1’Epee 
on his deathbed. Among the inmates is one Antoine Dubois, 
90 years old, a pupil of De l’Epee himself, and named in his 
will. The trades taught here are shoemaking, tailoring, lurn- 
ing, joinery, and lithography. The days of admission arc 
Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, from 3 to 5. 

Nearly opposite St. Jacques du Haul Pas, at No. 193, is the 
Convent of the Sceurs de St. Michel. The church has a Doric 


TWELFTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 

facade of some merit. On the same side of the street were the 
convent of the Ursulines and the Feuillantines; and between 
the latter and the Convent of the Val de Grdce was a house of 
English Benedictines, where part of the remains of James II. 
was buried, after bequeathing his head, heart, and intestines 
to the British Colleges. (1) It is now used as a school. 

In the rue d Enfer, at No. 67, will be found the Couvent des 
Dames Carmelites, where Mademoiselle de la Valliere, the 
beautiful mistress of Louis XIV., took the veil in 1675, as Soeur 
Louise de la Misericorde. In the chapel is a fine marble mo¬ 
nument of Cardinal Berulle, founder of the convent. He is 
represented kneeling on a pedestal adorned with bas-reliefs. 
Opposite is another valuable bas-relief in marble, by Barrois 
representing a Descent from the Cross, also a good bas-relief 
on the altar. The best paintings are : a Virgin and Child, Christ 

bearing the Lamb, by Gufit, and an Annunciation, by Mueller 
over the altar. 

The rue d’Enfer will lead to 

L Observatoire.— Upon the establishment of the Academy of 
Sciences in the reign of Louis XIV., Claude Perrault was 
charged by Colbert to prepare a design for this edifice, which 
was begun in 1667, and finished in 1672. When the buildin" 
was already far advanced, John Dominic Cassini, the astro¬ 
nomer, whom Colbert had sent for from Bologna, came to 
Baris. lie found the structure so ill adapted to its purpose, that 
at his suggestion, several alterations were made, which, how¬ 
ever, did not render it suitable for taking accurate observa¬ 
tions. The principal pile forms a parallelogram of 90 feet by 
82, to which have been added on the south two lateral octa¬ 
gonal lowers. In the north front is a projection of 24 feet 
forming the entrance. The platform on the top is 85 feet from 
the ground. The whole building is of stone, neither wood nor 
iron having been used. The principal part of this edifice being 
lound useless, a low building has been erected on the east in 
which nearly all the observations are made. This is so placed 
that two sides are parallel, and two perpendicular to a me¬ 
ridian line traced on the floor of a room on the second story 
Irom which French astronomers count their longitude • its di¬ 
rection is marked by an obelisk at Montmartre, distant nearly 
three English miles and a half from the Observatory. On Ibis 
line, between Dunkirk and Barcelona, the observations were 


(O Part of the remains of James II. were found some years ago at 
St. Germam, where he d.ed, and a handsome tomb was erected over 
them in the church of that place, by the munificence of Georee IV It 
was the fashion in those days to have different places of intement for 
different parts of the body of distinguished persons. 1 


l’observatoiue. 425 

made for determining the length of the arch of the terrestrial 
meridian between the equator and pole, now fixed at 5,130,740 
toises. (l) The line of the southern front is taken as the latitude 
of Paris. This Observatory is tbe centre from whence have 
diverged the several trigonometrical calculations for forming 
the map of France, known as la Carte de Cassini, or de I'Ob- 
servatoire, in 182 sheets. Underneath the building are some 
subterranean chambers, now no longer used, which were ori¬ 
ginally constructed for making astronomical observations, by 
means of openings through the roof of the edilice, for experi¬ 
ments on gravitation, etc. On the first floor is a telescope 22 
feet in length, and 22 inches in diameter, not now used; there 
is also an achromatic telescope of large dimensions. The col¬ 
let -lion of modern telescopes and astronomical instruments of 
all kinds attached to this institution is exceedingly good. On 
the second floor is a spacious room, containing globes, various 
magnetic instruments, the meridian line upon the floor, and 
the marble statue of Cassini, who died in 1712, aged 87. A fine 
white marble statue of Laplace, the celebrated astronomer, 
by Garraud, has also been lately placed here. Upon the floor 
of another room is a map of the world, engraved by Chazelles 
and Sedileau. Upon the roof of this edifice, which is formed 
of thick stones, is an anemometer, which indicates the direc¬ 
tion of the wind, upon a dial in one of the rooms. There are 
also here two pluviometers, for ascertaining the quantity of 
rain which falls at Paris during the year. The eastern tower 
has been lately covered with an immense rotatory cupola of 
copper, by means of which tbe observer may safely point his 
instrument to any part of the heavens without inconvenience 
from the weather. Two smaller ones of similar construction 
cover two small turrets on the roof. The number of steps 
leading to the roof is 1G2. A well-selected library of 45,000 
volumes, for the use of the professors and observers, is at¬ 
tached to the establishment, which owes much to the munifi¬ 
cence of the Duke d’AngoulSme. The building on the east is 
entered from the first floor of the principal structure. It con¬ 
tains various instruments, and among others a transit instru¬ 
ment. The roof of this small building, and of the cupola of 
the upper platform, opens in various parts, by means of simple 
mechanical arrangements; and observations are made here 
every night. The Bureau des Longitudes, consisting of two 
geometricians, four astronomers, two navigators, one geogra¬ 
pher, with assistants, etc., holds its sittings here on Wednes¬ 
days, at 3 o’clock, and presents annually to the king the 

(t) The ten-millionth part of this length has been adopted for the 
metre, or standard linear measure in France. 


£26 TWELFTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 

“ Annuaire,” i md “ Connaissance des Temps,” Which arc then 
published. The Observatory is now surrounded by a terrace, 
according to the original plan of Perrault, and the outer court 
enclosed by railings and pavilions. Two low wings have lately 
been added to the main building; in that to the left is an am¬ 
phitheatre for 800 persons, where M. Arago gives his popular 
lectures on astronomy every year. The cabinet of instruments 
is closed to the public, and no recommendation short of an 
intimate acquaintance with M. Arago will give the visitor access 
to it. The building may he visited by applying to the porter. 
A wide avenue, planted with trees, extends in a straight line 
to the railing of the garden of the Luxembourg, and thence 
to the centre of the palace. 

On the space between the garden of the Luxembourg and 
that of the Observatory, against the wail to the east, the un¬ 
fortunate Marshal Ney was shot, in December, 1815. 

The visitor will now pass along the rue Cassini, where a 
new reservoir for water has been constructed, to the rue 
d Enfer, where, at No. 74, he will find the 

Hospice des Enfants Trouves et des Orphelins, which was 
founded by St. Vincent de Paule, in 1G38, and through whose 
benevolent exertions it was improved and augmented at se¬ 
veral periods between that lime and 1G48. This establishment 
was first situated near the Porte St. Victor, and afterwards at 
Lieetre; but was removed from the latter place soon after 1648 
to the Convent of St. Lazare. In 1667, on a decree of the Par- 
lemenl, the managers of the institution erected the Hospice 
des Orphelins in the Faubourg St. Antoine, and placed the 
Entans Trouves at the corner of the Parvis Notre Dame. At the 
Devolution, the latter were removed to their present house 
formerly the Convent of the Pretres de l’Oratoire. At the same 
lime the ancient abbey of Port Royal, in the rue du Port Roval 
and m the immediate neighbourhood, was appropriated to the 
same purposes. The latter is now a lying-in hospital, and the 
former only is appropriated to children. The buildings are 

SS!": a A n A, the v. Chap * 1 f 011131 * 18 nothing of interest except a 
statue ol St. Vincent de Paule, by Stouf. For a child to be 
received at this hospital a certificate of the abandonment of the 
nld should be produced, signed by a commissary of police. (1) 

(l) Formerly the greatest facilities existed with regard to Hie admis¬ 
sion of children into this hospital, and into similar institutions 
throughout France. A box, called a tour , may still be seen in the wall 
near the gate of this hospital (and this was also the rule in all French 
foundling hospitals), which worked on a pivot, and, on a bell bein^-run^ 
was turned round by the persons inside to receive any child thatmieht 
be put within it. As soon as the infant was deposited in this hox iTwas 


IIOSPICE HES ENFANTS TROUVES. 427 

This Officer cannol refuse lo give such a certificate on bein" 
applied lo; but it is bis duty to admonish the mother or party 
abandoning the child, and lo procure for them assistance from 
the hospital fund, in case of their consenting to retain and’ 
support the child themselves. Every encouragement is given 
lo those who relinquish the idea of abandoning their offspring 
and consent lo support them at home. Of the children received 
in the hospital, those that are healthy are put out to nurse in 
the country, those that are sickly are retained at the hospital 
as long as requisite. Nurses from the country, of good charac¬ 
ter, arrive daily at the hospital in search of employment of 
this nature, and receive from 4 fr. to 8 fr. a-monlh for each 
child, according to its age. They are kept here a few days, and 
leave after their charges are assigned to them; care being 
taken to assign the children to nurses living as far as possible 
from their birth-places. After two years of age, the nurse may 
give the child up, when, if no other nurse can be found for it, 
it is tranferred to the orphan department. It appears, by an 

again turned round, and the mother or party depositing the child was 
never again allowed to see it without formally recognizing it and 
withdrawing it from the hospital. No questions of any kind used to be 
asked on the occasion of the deposit being made; no one was seen, and 
the whole was conducted as clandestinely as possible. Declarations ol 
the child’s name or quality, which used sometimes to be made on 
paper, and either attached to the infant or delivered at the bureau of 
the hospital, were carefully kept, and it was always possible to elTect 
the recognition of a child after any lapse of time. These regulations 
prevented infanticide in a great many cases, but were revoked on the 
plea that they acted as a direct encouragement to the increase of ille¬ 
gitimate children ; and that mothers, after having thus abandoned their 
offspring, would present themselves as nurses at the hospitals, where 
they ran the chance of receiving their own children back as public 
nurslings. Specious statistical arguments founded on the greater mor¬ 
tality in hospitals, and the charge to the capital of children brought 
from the country, were also adduced. The consequence is that illegiti¬ 
mate births have suffered no decrease, and infanticide has considerably 
increased; as the average of foundlings exposed annually at the Morgue 
previous to the new regulations, which came into force in Paris in 
1837, was 21, whereas since then the number has been 40, not including 
those taken to the cemeteries instead of to the Morgue, nor of course 
the innumerable infanticides committed in the early periods of gesta¬ 
tion. It may be matter of speculation to philosophers, to explain, how 
persons, that have voted millions for the decoration of Christian 
churches, could forget charity, the first rule of their religion, so far as 
to pass a law from mere pecuniary motives, by which mothers, whose 
only fault would otherwise be human frailty, are tempted to commit 
the most unnatural crime that ever disgraced society. In Italy, where 
the tour still exists, infanticide is scarcely ever heard of; and marriage 
in most cases sooner or later legitimates the offspring. 


428 TWELFTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 

oificial return, that the numbers of children received during 
17 years in the Foundling Hospital of Paris have been as fol¬ 
lows 1830, 5238; 1831, 5667; 1832, 4982; 1833, 4803; 1834, 
4941; 1835, 4877; 1836, 4792; 1837, 4644; 1838, 3037; 1839 
3182; 1840, 3360; 1841, 3471; 1842, 3740; 1843, 3825; 1844’ 
3946; 1845, 4120; 1846, 4296. The number of deaths are about 
1 in 3 3 / 4 . The number of children in the hospital itself is gene¬ 
rally about 277. The number placed out at nurse in the country 
by the institution is about 13,000. The total expense of this insti¬ 
tution for 1846 amounted to 1,482,309 fr. The physician to the 
institution is Dr. Baron; surgeons, Drs. Lachassaigne and The- 
venot de St. Blaise. The internal arrangements of this hospital 
are very admirable. The children are first placed in a general 
reception-room, called La Creche, where they are visited in the 
morning by the physicians, and assigned to the different infir¬ 
maries. These are four in number : for medical cases; for sur¬ 
gical cases; for measles; and for ophthalmic cases. In each of 
these rooms, as well as in the Creche, cradles are placed round 
the walls in rows, and several nurses are constantly employed 
in attending to them. An inclined bed is placed in front of the 
fire, on which the children who require it are laid, and chairs 
are ranged in a warm corner, in which children of sufficient 
age and strength sit part of the day. The utmost cleanliness 
prevails, and every thing is conducted with great care and 
vigilance. 

In the same building is the Hospice des Orphelins, originally 
founded in 1669 for orphan girls, but, in 1809, opened to orphan 
boys also. Children whose parents are dead, or whose parents 
certify that they have not the means of supporting them, are 
received from the ages of two to fourteen, by order of the 
Prefect of Police. Poor persons falling ill, and being obliged 
to go to an hospital, may send their children until "they are 
themselves cured and able to return to their occupations. Per¬ 
sons condemned to imprisonment have the same facility. They 
are all educated in reading, writing, and arithmetic, and are 
placed out in trades, when the period of their residence is 
expired, which is at the age of 21. The treatment they expe¬ 
rience is one of great care and kindness, and the institution 
has been very successful in producing useful members of 
society. As soon as children fall ill in this hospice they are 
transferred to the Hopital des Enfants Malades, provided they 
be not older than 15; in that case they are sent to other hospitals. 

Both this and the preceding establishment are under the 
especial superintendence of the Sceurs de St. Vincent de Paule, 
or Soeurs de Charite. The days of admission to visit these 
institutions are Tuesdays and Thursdays, from 12 to 4. 


CATACOMBS. 


429 


A little beyond is the 

Infirmerie de Marie Therese, 86, rue d’Enfer.—'This hospital, 
founded by the Viscountess de Chateaubriand, in 1819 , derives 
its name from the Duchess d’AngoulSme, who became’its pro¬ 
tectress. The persons received here are sick ecclesiastics, na¬ 
tives or foreigners. The house contains 50 beds, but’ the 
institution being destined for persons who have moved in 
respectable society, the furniture, linen, food, etc., are greatly 
superior to what are generally found in hospitals. Physician, 
M. Charpentier; surgeon, M. Harvey. The inmates are attended 
by Ihe Soeurs de St. Vincent de Paule. The infirmary is sup¬ 
ported by voluntary contributions, and the sale of chocolate, 
syrups, etc., of excellent quality. It is under the control of 
the Archbishop. 

At the extremity of the rue St. Jacques is the Barriere d’Ar- 
cueil, or St. Jacques, immediately within which the guillo¬ 
tine is erected whenever an execution takes place. This spot 
was selected as being removed from the busy parts of the 
capital, which circumstance, added to the early hour at which 
executions generally take place, tends to diminish the throng 
that would otherwise be attracted by the spectacle. Persons 
curious of inspecting the guillotine, without witnessing an 
execution, must write to Monsieur le Procureur-Gentfral, au 
Palais de Justice, for permission. The fee expected by the 
Person who will exhibit it, M. Henri, 31, rue des Marais, fau¬ 
bourg du Temple, is 20 fr., but the party may consist of any 
number of persons. 

Near this place are the 

Catacombs.— These immense receptables for the bones of the 
dead were devoted to that purpose in 1784, when the Council 
of State issued a decree for clearing the cemetery of the Inno¬ 
cents, and for removing its contents, as well as those of other 
cemeteries, into the quarries that had existed from a remote 
period beneath the southern part of Paris, and by which the 
Observatory, the Luxembourg, the Odeon, the Val de Gr5ce, 
the Pantheon, the rues de la Harpe, de St. Jacques, de Tournon, 
de Vaugirard, and several other streets, are completely under¬ 
mined. (1) Some sinkings of the ground having occurred, a com- 

(l) The ascertained extent of the quarries under the surface of Paris 
is 674,800 metres, or about 200 acres :—viz. under the public roads or 
streets, 182,850, and under the other parts of the city, 491,950 ; but it is 
probable that they extend much further. Judging by variations of the 
surface, by the fissures which have taken place, and by those which are 
still occasionally occurring, it may be presumed that these excavations 
run in galleries under one-sixth of the capital. The quarters under 
which the principal portion of them lie are the faubourgs St. Marcel, 


430 


TWELFTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 


mission was appointed to direct such works as might he re¬ 
quired. Engineers and workmen were immediately employed 
to examine the whole of the quarries, and prop the streets 
roads, churches, palaces, and buildings of all kinds, which were 
in danger of being engulfed. The thought of converting the 
quarries into Catacombs originated with M. Lenoir, lieutenant- 
general of the police. That part of the quarries under the 
lame de Mont Souris was allotted for this purpose; a house 
known by the name of la Tombe Issoire, or Isauard, (from a 
famous robber who once infested that neighbourhood,) on the 
old road to Orleans, was purchased, with a piece of ground 
adjoining ; and every preparation was made by sinking a shaft 
propping up the cavities, and walling off various portions, for 
receiving the dead. The ceremony of consecrating the Cala- 
combs was performed with great solemnity on the 7th of April 
1786, and on the same day the removal'from the cemetery 
began This work was always performed at night; the hones 
were brought in funeral cars, covered with a pall, followed by 
priests chanting the service of the dead, and when they 
l eached the Catacombs were shot down the shaft. The tomb¬ 
stones, monuments, etc., not claimed by the families of the 
deceased were removed and arranged in a field belonging to 
the Tombe Issoire; some of them were very curious* and 
among them was the leaden coffin of Mine, de Pompadour, 
hey were all destroyed however during the Revolution, and a 

erecle f °" l l ie s i )0t * The cemeteries of St. Eustaehe 
and St Elienne-des-Gres having been suppressed in 1787 the 
bones from them were removed to this general deposit bv 
order of the government. The Catacombs served alTas con- 
venient receptacles for those who perished in popular commo¬ 
tions or massacres. The bones, when first brought to the 
Catacombs were heaped up without any kind of order, except 
that those from each cemetery were kept separate. In 1810 a 
egu ar system of arranging the hones was commenced under 
the direction of M. Hericart de Thury. Openings were made in 
man> places to admit air, channels formed to carry off the 
water, steps were constructed from the lower to the upper 
excavations, pillars erected to support the dangerous parts of 
e \ault, and the skulls and bones built up along the walls 
For some years past admission into them has been strictly in- 

3 , —* 


CATACOMBS. 434 

terdicted, on account of the dangerous state of the roofs of 
Hie quarries, on which a considerable sum is spent annually 
m propping and repairing. A few influential persons have as 
a matter of favour, been lately allowed by the Prefect of Police 
to enter; but in general admission may be said to be impossible 
A brief description of them is subjoined, in order that a general 
idea may be formed of their contents. The garden of the 
western octroi building at the Barriere d’Enfer contains the 
principal entry; the staircase leading thence down to the Cata¬ 
combs consists of 90 steps; at the bottom of which a series of 
galleries conducts to that called Port Mahon, from an old sol¬ 
dier, who worked here and amused his leisure hours, for 5 
years, in carving out of the stone a plan of Port Mahon, where 
he had been long a prisoner. At a short distance from this spot 
are some enormous fragments of stone nicely balanced on a 
base hardly exceeding a point, and in this equilibrium they 
have remained for more than two centuries. ( 1 ) About 200 yards 
birther on is the vestibule of the Catacombs. It is of an octa¬ 
gonal form. On the sides of the door are two stone benches 
and two pillars of the Tuscan order. Over the door is the fol¬ 
lowing inscription Has ultra metas requiescunt beatarn spew, 
spectantes. I he vestibule opens into a long gallery lined with 
bones from the floor to the roof. The arm, leg, and thigh 
bones are in front, closely and regularly piled together, and 
their uniformity is relieved by three rows of skulls at equal 
distances. Behind these are thrown the smaller bones. This 
gallery conducts to several rooms, resembling chapels, lined 
with bones variously arranged; and in the centre, or in niches 
of the walls, are vases and altars, some of which are formed of 
bones, and others are ornamented with skulls of different sizes. 
These chapels contain numerous inscriptions; one is called 
the Tombcau de la Revolution, another the Tombeau des Vic- 
tnnes, and enclose the bodies of those who perished either in 
the early period ol the Bevolution, or in the massacres of the 
2d and 3d September. O 11 a large stone pillar is the inscription 
Memento, quia pulvis es: and in another are sentences taken 
from the work of Thomas a Kempis, “The Imitation of Christ/’ 
Here is a lountain also in which some golden fish were put 
and in which they lived but did not spawn. The spring was 
discovered by the workmen; the basin was made for their use, 
and a subterranean aqueduct carries off the water. M. Heri- 

( 1 ) instances of similar rocking-stones, or Logan-slones, as they are 
termed, are frequent in several parts of Great Britain; ihose of Castle 
Treryn, in Cornwall, of Twydneck in Wales, and of St. Agnes’s Island 
(Sciliy group), are celebrated. Oliver Cromwell caused one at Sithney 
to be thrown from its support, as being a heathen monument. 


432 TWELFTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 

cart de Thury named it la Source d’Oubli, but it is now called 
Fontaine de la Samaritaine f from an inscription containing the 
words of Christ to the Samaritan woman. A faint mouldering 
smell is perceived, but not to a disagreeable or dangerous degree. 
Two cabinets have been formed in the Catacombs by M. Heri- 
cart de Thury. One is a mineralogical collection of specimens 
of all the strata of the quarries; the other is a pathological 
assemblage of diseased bones, scientifically arranged. There is 
likewise a table, on which are exposed the skulls most remark¬ 
able either for their formation or the marks of disease which 
they bear. The album which is kept at the Catacombs contains 
a great many effusions of sentiment, a few of devotional feeling, 
and numerous contemptible and profligate witticisms. Calcula¬ 
tions differ as to the number of bones collected in this vast 
charnel-house; it cannot, however, be doubted that it contains 
the remains of at least 3,000,000 of human beings. Workmen 
are at present employed in strengthening the pillars and walls, 
and 100,000 fr. were voted for this purpose by the Municipal 
Council in 1847. 

Returning from hence the stranger will come to the 

Hopital Cochin, 45, rue du Faubourg St. Jacques.—This in¬ 
stitution was founded by M. Cochin, the benevolent rector of 
St. Jacques du Haut Pas, in 1780, and its buildings were finished 
in 1782. It was at first intended by the founder for his own 
parishioners; but patients, of the same classes as those of the 
Hotel Dieu are now received from all parts of the capital. 
The building consists of a main body with three pavilions, the 
central one being adorned with two Doric columns bearing an 
entablature. The number of beds is 130; and the Soeurs de 
Ste. Marie d’Espcrance attend upon the patients. The average 
number of patients is 2,100, and the mortality 1 in 10.7. Phy¬ 
sician, Dr. Nonat; surgeon, M. Michon. Strangers may visit the 
hospital daily. In the adjoining rue de la Sante is a convent of 
the Dames Augustines du Sacre Coeur, erected at a cost of two 
millions ot francs. The exterior is simple; within is a spacious 
court surrounded by a Doric arcade; the chapel, opposite the 
enhance, is entered by a portico of four Ionic columns sup¬ 
porting a pediment; the interior is Corinthian, and remarkably 
elegant, but otherwise uninteresting. The public are admitted 
on Sundays and Thursdays, from 12 to 2. 

In the rue des Capucins, 39, Faubourg St. Jacques, is the 

Hopital du Midi.— This building was erected by the Capuchin 
lriars, and occupied as a monastery till 1784: it was then 
converted into an hospital for nurses and new-born infants 
affected with syphilitic complaints. In 1792 adults of both sexes 


IIOPITAL MILITAIRE. 433 

were admitted, and it became a general syphilitic hospital. 
Subsequently it was deemed necessary to separate the sexes^ 
and females were sent to another hospital, the Lourcine. It 
contains 300 beds, besides 21 for patients able to pay. All* the 
attendants are males. The annual average number of patients 
is 3,300. Physician, Dr. Puche; surgeons, Messrs. Ricord and 
Vidal de Cassis. The clinical lectures of Dr. Ricord are very 
celebrated. Gratuitous advice is given to out-door patients 
daily from 9 to 10. The mortality is from 12 to 20 per cent per 
annum. Permission to see this hospital is to he obtained on ap¬ 
plying to the Director, M. Bavoil. Days of admission, Wednes¬ 
days, from 1 to 3, and Sundays, from 2 to 4. 

Crossing the Faubourg St. Jacques, the visitor will find the 

Maison d’Accouchement, 3, rue du Port Royal, for which see 

p. 82. 

From hence the stranger may proceed to the 

Hopital Militaire and Church du Val de Grace, 277, rue 
St. Jacques.—The buildings of this hospital belonged to a 
convent of nuns, who were originally established at the Val 
Profond, near Bievre le Chalel, three leagues from Paris, hut 
transferred to the capital, in 1021, by Anne of Austria, consort 
of Louis XIII. The community were at first lodged in the Hotel 
du Petit Bourbon, in the faubourg St. Jacques; but a few years 
after they commenced building a convent, of which the queen 
laid the first stone in 1024, contributing about one-half of the 
expense. The queen, having been married 22 years without 
issue, made vows in several chapels, etc., and, among others, 
in that of the Val de Grace, where she promised to build a 
church, if her desire to give an heir to the throne should he 
realised. At length, on the Glh of September, 1038, she gave 
birth to a prince, afterwards Louis XIV. After the death of 
Louis XIII., the queen prepared to fulfil her vow. On the 1st 
of April, 1045, Louis XIV. laid the first stone of the church with 
great pomp. The elder Mansard furnished the plans, and super¬ 
intended the execution of the building for some time, but 
having lost the queen's favour, it was entrusted to Lemercier, 
and subsequently to Le Muet and Leduc, who deteriorated the 
original design. A quadrangular court is entered by a railing 
facing the street; the sides are adorned with ten triangular 
pediments supported by columns of irregular Doric design. 
In front is the church, with a dome resting on a lofty drum, 
strengthened around by buttresses adorned with Composite 
pilasters, and pierced with sixteen windows; the four cam¬ 
paniles, or little bell-turrets, that stand out from the gallery 
on which the dome rests, are too close to the body of the 
building, with which they do not harmonise. The front is 

37 


'*34 TWELFTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 

ornamented with a portico of Corinthian columns supporting 
a pediment; above is a range of Composite engaged columns 
bearing a second pediment. The entrance is approached by a 
flight of large and wide steps. The plan of the church is that 
ot a Latin cross; in the longer section of the nave the public 
used to attend service, and in the other parts were chapels for 
the ladies of the convent. The intersection of the cross is cir¬ 
cular; four lofty arches open into the transepts. The cupola 
rises from corbels. The nave is flanked by chapels communicat¬ 
ing with each other, now devoid of altars, except one in the 
nave, where the altar-piece is an Ascension. The decorations 
of this, as well as the other parts of the church, are Corinthian, 
and are executed with great precision and boldness. All the 
sculptures are by Anguier. In the spandrils of the arches of the 
nave are large figures in alto-rilievo, representing the Chris¬ 
tian Virtues, and the vaulting of the ceiling presents richly- 
decorated compartments, tilled with figures of saints. The 
pendentives of the lower dome contain circular compartments, 
m which are fine alti-rilievi of the four evangelists. The vault 
oi the dome is admirably painted on stone by Mignard, and has 
been reputed as one of the finest frescos in France. Around 
the frieze below the gallery is an inscription in golden letters 
commemorative of the building of the church by Anne of Aus¬ 
tria. The high altar is surmounted by a magnificent canopy, 
supported by six fluted spiral columns of grey marble, with 
bases, capitals, and foliage of bronze gilt. Four angels placed 
on the entablature of the columns bold censers, and from palm- 
branches are suspended others, with scrolls bearing inscrip¬ 
tions. The whole is terminated by a globe and cross. In front 
of the altar, and in the centre of the intersection of the cross, 
the letteis A. L. are inlaid in the pavement, which here, as well 
as throughout the whole ot the edifice, is formed of rich 
marbles. The chapels for the nuns are separated from the rest 
of the building by iron gratings, and in that behind the altar, 
which is a beautiful piece of architecture, a crimson curtain 
screened the superiors of the convent from the view of the 
congregation. In one of these chapels, formerly the oratory 
of Anne d’Aulriche, whose bust is seen on the ceiling held by 
an Angel, are frescos representing views from Spain. In the 
northern arm of the cross is the entrance to a vault where the 
remains of the abbesses were deposited, on marble shelves. 
Here also is shown a press, where the hearts of the Bourbon 
family were preserved encased in silver, a custom originating 
from the foundress having bequeathed her heart to this church. 
The remains of Queen Henrietta, wife of Charles I. of England’ 
were placed here. The nuns were buried underneath the 


ST. MEDARD. 435 

nave, in a vault, the entrance of which is near the western 
door. A small confessional, with a strong iron grating, opens 
into the church near the high allar, from one of the passages 
behind. This was the confessional used by Mile, de la Yal- 
liere, previous to her taking the vows; from the windows of 
the above-mentioned passage is seen the building she occu¬ 
pied at that period. During the Revolution the church was 
converted into a depot for the materiel of military hospitals, 
and thus escaped the fury of the populace. Under Napo¬ 
leon the convent became an hospital for soldiers. In 1826, 
the church was repaired, and restored to divine worship. 
The associations connected with this place are interesting, 
from the fact that it was once the fashionable convent for 
members of the nobility of France. The hospital contains 
about 2,000 beds. Physicians, Messrs. Baudas and Alquet. A 
line statue of the celebrated surgeon Broussais, who is interred 
here, and another of Larrey, the surgeon, by David d’Angers, 
stand in the court-yard. The church is open every day, and 
the vaults, etc., are shown by a military attendant. 

On passing into the rue de l’Arbalete, the visitor will find, at 
No. 13, the 

ficoLE de Pharmacie. —The school occupies the site of an an¬ 
cient convent, called Hopital de Lourcine; the new buildings, 
which are plain but commodious, have been erected very lately, 
The first botanical garden that existed in France was formed 
in the grounds of this convent in 1580, on the model of that of 
Padua. There is a cabinet of specimens of all kinds of drugs, 
with a select mineralogical collection, well worthy of inspec¬ 
tion; also a small but select library, open daily to the public 
from 10 to 3. Underneath is the hall of meeting, containing 
some interesting portraits of French physicians. This school 
was established for the instruction of druggists, and no one is 
permitted to compound medicines who is not provided with 
the necessary diploma. Lectures are given during the summer 
and winter on all the branches of pharmacy and on botany. 
Strangers may visit this establishment every day except Sun¬ 
day. (See page 81.) 

The visitor will find, in the rue Moufietard, 

St. Medard, third district church of 12lh arrondissement.— 
It was the parish church of the village of St. Medard as early 
as the 12lh century, and was dependent on the abbey of Ste. 
Genevieve. Tbe front consists of a plain gable with buttresses, 
adorned with attached and crocketted pinnacles and a graceful 
pointed window over the porch, which however is Saxon. The 
nave and aisles are of the end of the I5lh century; the choir 




*36 TWELFTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 

and its arcades are of the dates 1561, 1586, when many repairs 
and additions were made to the church. The square tower, 
supporting a spire, is probably as old as the nave. In 1685 and 
1784 the church was “embellished,” to use the language of the 
time, and the deformities of its choir and chapels added. Some 
curious adaptations of Corinthian capitals, belonging to the 
earlier dates, may he remarked in the north aisle of the choir. 
Most of the key-stones bear bas-reliefs, and the groinings, with 
their ribs and pendant bosses, are exceedingly graceful, those 
of the aisles in particular. In many of the windows valuable 
specimens of old stained glass will be remarked. In the 1st cha¬ 
pel in the southern aisle, on the panel of the altar, a valuable 
old painting on wood will attract attention; it represents the 
Descent from the Cross. The 2d is the Chapel of St. Fiacre, 
where that saint, painted in fresco by Leuillier, is represented 
preaching. Next is a plaster Descent from the Cross, not with¬ 
out merit, and in the Chapel of the Crucifixion a Dead Christ, 
after Van Dyck. A very good Annunciation is in the following 
one. The 6th chapel, behind the choir, slightly cruciform, is 
dedicated to the Virgin, and is remarkable for the Marriage of 
the Virgin, by Caminade, and the ceremony of the Rosieres 
instituted by St. Medard. There are also two plaster statues; the 
one is St. Joseph, by Jacquot, the other St. Philomene, byW 
bois. The 7th chapel has a fine picture of Ste. Genevieve, by 
Watteau. In the 8lh is a picture of the Flemish school, repre¬ 
senting the Virgin learning to read under the tuition of Ste. 
Anne, hei mother. In the 11th and last worth mentioning, a 
new painting by Boulanger, St. Denis causing an idol to fall by 
miracle, has just been placed. There are two organs: the 
laigei is o\er the entrance; the other, in the southern aisle 
communicates with the performer in the choir by pipes under 
the pavement.—Some curious historical events are connected 
with this church. In 1561, an attack was made on it by some 
Calvinists, after hearing a sermon in a neighbouring house. 
Several of the congregation in the church were killed, and 
much damage done to the altars and windows. In 1727, the 
Abbe Paris was buried in the cemetery, and in 1730 the “con¬ 
vulsions” at his tomb began, which gave rise to the sect of the 
Convulsionisls. All the lamentable displays of religious extrava¬ 
gance of that sect took place in and about this church; and the 
scandal occasioned by them was only suppressed by closin»- 
the cemetery in 1732. (1) The celebrated advocate Pairu, ih£ 

(i) On this occasion some poet (probably a convulsionist) inscribed 
on the gale the following distich— 

De par le roi, defense a Dieu 

De faire miracle ea ce lieu. 




GOBELINS. 437 

French Quintilian, and Nicole, the moralist, were buried here. 

At the corner of the rue Censier is the Fontaine de Bacchus, 
so called from a figure placed in a circular aperture, holding 
a goat-skin. 

Entering the rue du Champ de FAlouette, the visitor crosses 
the small stream of the Bievre (see page 38), whose muddy and 
unwholesome waters are of great value to the numerous tanners 
and dyers, who have established themselves along its course 
from lime immemorial. 

The rue Croulebarbe leads to the 

Manufacture Royale des Gobelins (Tapestry and Carpet Ma¬ 
nufactory), 270, rue Mouffetard.—From the 14th century dyers 
of wool have been established in the Faubourg St. Marcel, 
upon the Bievre, the water of that stream being favourable to 
the process of dyeing. One of them, Jean Gobelin, who lived 
in 1450, acquired considerable property in the neighbourhood. 
His descendants continued his trade with success, and, having 
become extremely rich, discontinued business, and eventually 
tilled various offices in the stale. To them succeeded Messrs. 
Canaye, who, not confining themselves to dyeing wool, worked 
tapestry, a manufacture until that period confined to Flanders. 
About 1055 they were succeeded by a Dutchman named Glucq, 
bringing with him a workman named Jean Liansen, who ex¬ 
celled in the art. The establishment prospering, Louis XIV., at 
the suggestion of Colbert, determined to erect it into a royal 
manufactory. The houses and gardens of the establishment were 
purchased in 1062. Skilful artists were attached to the manu¬ 
factory, and, in 1667, the celebrated Lebrun was appointed 
director. (1) The work-rooms are six in number, and contain 
pieces of tapestry in different stages of forwardness. The work 
is called the haute lisse, from the warp being vertical; and the 
workman stands at the back of the canvas on which he is em¬ 
ployed, with the model behind him, to which he occasionally 
refers, in order to adjust the colour of his woollen or silken 
thread to that part of the picture he is copying. The object of 
the process being to present as smooth and delicate a surface 
as possible, all cuttings and fastenings are performed at the 
back. Hence the necessity of his working on the wrong side. 
All the finest tints and the boldest strokes of art are here daily 
imitated with wonderful fidelity, and the effect of a picture so 
copied is little inferior to that of an oil painting. The appa¬ 
ratus for straining, elevating, or lowering the frames is very 
ingenious. About 120 workmen are employed in the establish¬ 
ment. The productions of this manufactory, which belongs to 

(l) Lebrun painted his famous battles of Alexander the Great as pat ¬ 
terns for this manufactory. 



£38 TWELFTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 

government, are chiefly destined for the royal palaces, or for 
presents made by the king. Connected with the manufactory 
is an establishment for dyeing wool, directed by able chemists, 
where an infinite variety of shades, many unknown in the 
trade, are produced. There is also a school of design; and an 
annual course of lectures on chemistry as applicable to dyeing. 
To the Gobelins has been annexed the celebrated carpet-ma¬ 
nufactory, which was made a royal establishment in 1604, by 
Marie de Medicis, in favour of Pierre Dupont, who invented 
the process for finishing the carpets, and who was placed at its 
head with the title of director. The workshops, originally 
placed in the Louvre, were transferred, in 1615, to a soap-ma¬ 
nufactory at Chaillot, and the establishment hence derived the 
name of La Savonnerie. In 1826 it was annexed to the Gobe¬ 
lins. The pieces manufactured here are suspended perpendi¬ 
cularly, like the tapestry de haute lisse; but with this diffe¬ 
rence, that in the latter the workman is placed on the wrong 
side, whilst in the former he works on the right. As a woolly 
surface is required, the workman, in weaving, cuts on the 
right side of the piece. The carpels manufactured here are 
considered far superior to the Persian for the evenness of 
their surface, the fineness and the strength of their texture. 
The colours and designs are perfect. Some of the carpels 
lake as long as 5 to 10 years to be made, and cost from 60,000 
to 150,000 fr., and even at these high prices the workmen are 
very inadequately paid. None are sold. The largest carpet ever 
made is probably that manufactured at La Savonnerie, for the 
gallery of the Louvre : it consists of 72 pieces, forming alto¬ 
gether a length of more than 1300 feet. In two of the rooms 
are samples of the carpets, etc. The closeness with which the 
painter’s art can be here imitated will not fail to excite the 
visitor’s astonishment. A description and historical catalogue 
may be had at the lodge for 15 sous. For admission foreigners 
have only to present their passports, on Wednesdays or Satur¬ 
days, from l to 3 in winter, and from 2 to 4 in summer. 

Near this is the reservoir that supplies water to the faubour" 
St. Marcel. & 

From hence the visitor may proceed to the Barriere d’llalie 
through which the road to Fontainebleau and the south-east 
ol France passes. Near it is the Abattoir de Villejuif, so called 
from a small village without the walls of the town : this slaugh¬ 
terhouse is a counterpart ol the other buildings appropriated 
to the same purpose. 

Northward along the Boulevard de FHdpital is the rue du 
Marche aux Ghevaux, where is the beer-brewery ofM. Du- 
mesnil, whose cellars form part of the ancient quarries from 


la salp£triere. 439 

which Paris was built, and are a continuation of the Catacombs. 
A solid and broad staircase of 87 steps leads down to them ; 
they are worthy the attention of a visitor, from their vastness 
and singular appearance. Application to visit them must be 
made at the counting-house, whence a person will be sent to 
conduct the stranger. 

A few steps further the visitor will find the 

Marche aux Chevaux.— The horse-market was originally esta¬ 
blished on the Boulevard des Capucines, in 1G04, by Henry IV., 
and was transferred hither in 1642. In 1818 it was planted, 
and the ground arranged so as to form avenues for exercising 
horses. In the middle are two plain marble fountains sur¬ 
mounted by lamp-posts; at the sides of the avenues are stalls; 
and on one side is what is called an essai, an artificial hill, 
with a steep ascent and descent, for the purpose of trying the 
strength, etc., of draught-horses previous to purchase, which 
is done by tackling them to a cart with the wheels clogged. 
The market is held on Wednesdays and Saturdays, from 2 till 
4 o’clock in winter, and from 1 till dusk in summer. Few 
horses but those for ordinary purposes are sold here. Mules 
and asses may also be had. It is unnecessary to caution pur¬ 
chasers to be on their guard in such a place. The police regu¬ 
lations tend to diminish roguery here if possible. 

On the same spot is held the Marche aux Chiens, or dog- 
market, every Sunday from twelve till two. 

The visitor having crossed this Marche will find himself again 
on the Boulevard de l’Hopital, opposite to the 

Hospice de la Vieillesse (female), or La SalpetriEre. —At 
the beginning of the reign of Louis XIV., the civil war had 
drawn an immense number of indigent persons to Paris, and 
in 165G the establishment of a general hospital for them was or¬ 
dained. Extensive buildings, previously occupied as a saltpetre- 
manufactory, were granted for that purpose, and M. Bruant 
was charged to make the necessary alterations. The Hopital 
de la SalpStriere is 1680 feet in length, and 1164 in breadth; its 
superficies is 108,640 square yards, and all its arrangements 
are on a grand scale. A Doric gateway gives access to a spa¬ 
cious court, which serves as a promenade. The principal front 
to the northwest is above 600 feet in length, and has four project¬ 
ing pavilions. In the centre is a vestibule fronted by three 
arches, leading to the church, a heavy building, but not devoid 
of an air of grandeur from its immense size. The nave and 
transept intersect each other in a large octagonal space, into 
which four large chapels, also octagonal, open. The sections 
of the cross are each 60 feet long, as is also the diameter of the 


440 TWELFTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 

circular part, which is domed. The buildings of the hospital 
are not remarkable for any thing, except their vast size. There 
are two gateways, one of which, belonging to the wing built 
by Cardinal Mazarin, is named after him, and bears in the tym¬ 
panum his arms supported by two figures in bas-relief. In 16G2, 
Irom 9,000 to 10,000 paupers were admitted here. It is always 
full, and contains a population of upwards of 6,000, including 
attendants. It is now exclusively appropriated to the recep¬ 
tion of women, who are divided into three classes, viz. :—1, 
Reposantes, or aged officials of the hospitals; 2, indigent per¬ 
sons, divided into valid inmates, or afflicted by old age only, 
infirm, or decrepid and incurable patients; 3, epileptic persons 
and lunatics. The total number of beds for patients is 4938, of 
which immense number 1470 are occupied by lunatics, idiots, 
or epileptic patients. The lunatics, of whom about three-fifths 
are dangerously mad, are kept in separate infirmaries, and 
treated with the greatest care and attention. Sewing is enforced 
to such an extent that in one month 48,000 military sacks have 
been known to be completed. The harmless are allowed to 
amuse themselves in the occupations they fancy, especially in 
gardening, the salutary effect of which is conducive to their 
recovery. There is a small market within the walls of this es¬ 
tablishment, under the control of the administration of the hos¬ 
pital. The kitchen, laundry, pharmacy, etc., are all on a most 
extensive scale. A visit to this hospital cannot but be highly 
gratifying to every lover of humanity. Doctors, (for the aged 
and infirm,) Messrs. Prus, Barthe, and Guillot; (for lunatics,) 
Falrel, Metivie, Lelut, Trelat, and Baillarger. Surgeon, M. Ma- 
nec. The public are admitted on Thursdays and Sundays, from 
12 till 4; but strangers are readily admitted on applying with 
passport at the porter’s lodge ; an attendant (usually a female) 
will accompany them around : a small gratuity is expected. 

Nearly opposite to the Salp6lriere is the rue d’lvry, where 
at No. 1, the visitor will find the 

Maison St. Casimir.— This small charitable foundation for the 
education of the children of Polish exiles, established and 
mainly supported by the efforts of the patriotic Princess Czar- 
toryska, is under the direction of four Polish sisters of cha- 
iily, whom persecutions less ferocious, but not less unrelenting 
than those experienced by the well-known Basilian Nuns, have 
driven from their native soil. Here, with that persevering 
patriotism, which distinguishes their unfortunate nation, they 
have created a little Poland around them; thirty children learn 
their native language here, and receive instruction at their 
hands. The neatness and order that pervade this establishment, 

* he airy and tidy dormitories, the simple refectory and school* 


HALLE AUX VINS. 444 

room, the small but cheerful garden with its homely chapel, 
will interest and please the visitor, notwithstanding the melan¬ 
choly recollections with which they are associated. The insti¬ 
tution exists since 184G. 

Near these hospices, to the eastward, is the terminus of 
the Orleans Railroad; the buildings cover a large space of 
ground. (See page G.) 

Returning westward along the river, the visitor comes to the 
Place Valiiubert, forming a semi-circle at the entrance of 
the Jardin des Plantes, and opposite to 
The Pont d’Austerlitz, begun in 1801, and finished in 1807, 
by Beaupre and Lamande. It is exceedingly light and elegant 
in appearance, and received its name, in commemoration of 
the victory gained by the French, December 2, 1805, over the 
Russians and Austrians. On the second occupation by the al¬ 
lied armies, the name was changed to Pont du Roi, and after¬ 
wards to Pont du Jardin des Plantes. Its length between the 
abutments is 400 feet, and its breadth 37 ; the piers are of 
stone, laid on piles, and its five arches are of cast iron. It cost 
3,000,000 francs, and was the second iron bridge constructed 
in Paris. A toll is paid for vehicles and passengers. At its op¬ 
posite extremity is the new Place Mazas. 

Crossing the Place Valhubert, on the Quai St. Bernard, is the 
Halle aux Vins. —The Paris wine-market, established in 1656, 
beyond the Porte St. Bernard, had long been found insufficient 
for the commerce of the capital, when Napoleon ordered the 
construction of one much more extensive upon the site of the 
celebrated abbey of St. Victor. The first stone was laid on the 
15th of August, 1813. The works were carried on at first with 
great activity, were relaxed during 1815 and the two following 
years, but have since been finished. The ground on which the 
Ilalle aux Vins is constructed measures about 26,000 square 
metres. It is inclosed by a wall on three sides, and towards the 
quay is fenced by an iron railing nearly 800 metres in length. 
This magnificent market is divided into streets called after dif¬ 
ferent kinds of wine, as follows:—rue de Champagne, rue de 
Bourgogne, rue de Bordeaux, rue de Languedoc, and rue de la 
Cole-d’Or. On the side next the quay are offices for those who 
superintend the entrance and departures of wines, and a great 
number of merchants’ counting-houses. The piles of building 
are seven in number; four in front and three in the back ground. 
Some augmentations and improvements have lately been made, 
and the whole will contain about 450,000 casks. In the back¬ 
ground is a warehouse appropriated to spirits, and constructed 
without either wood or iron : as stone for the roof would have 
been found too heavy, a hollow brick about six inches long was 


TWELFTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 


m 

used. In the halle there is also a bureau de de'potage, containing 
gauges of the casks of the different parts of France; and pur¬ 
chasers of casks may have them measured here. Wines enter¬ 
ing this depot do not pay the octroi duty until they are sold 
out of it; but, so long as they remain in bond, the owners pay 
warehouse-rent, etc. The number of casks that enter in one 
day is frequently 1,500. Olive oil also is sold here. The halle is 
open to the public from 6 to 0 in the summer; and from 7 to 5 
in winter. An immense quantity of inferior wines is always on 
the wharf in front of this market. 

The visitor will remark the fine extent of quays recently 
constructed in this neighbourhood. 

At the corner of the rue Cuvier the stranger may enter the 

Jardin des Plantes. —At the solicitation of Herouard and Guy 
de la Brosse, his physicians, Louis XIII. founded the Jardin des 
Plantes, in 1635. Several distinguished men, among whom 
may be reckoned the names of Duverney, Tournefort, Yail- 
lant, Bernard de Jussieu, and Cysternay du Fay, contributed 
greatly to the prosperity of the establishment, previously to the 
appointment of Buffon, in 1739, to the functions of superin- 
tendant. That celebrated naturalist devoted himself perse- 
veringly to the interest of the garden; and before his death, in 
1788, the names of Daubenton, Anthony de Jussieu, Winslow, 
A. Petit, Faujas de St. Fond, Van Spaendonck, Desfonlaines, 
Fourcroy, and Portal, shed lustre on the establishment. At the 
Revolution, the universities, the faculties of medicine, law, etc., 
being suppressed, it was doubtful whether the King’s Garden 
would not be involved in the general proscription; but as it 
was considered national property, open to visitors of all classes, 
and as the people believed the garden to be destined for the 
culture of medicinal plants, and the laboratory to be a manu¬ 
factory of saltpetre, it was respected. During the Reign of Ter¬ 
ror, and up to the Consulate, the institution was much neg¬ 
lected, and had deteriorated from want of funds. But on Bona¬ 
parte arriving at the head of affairs a new impulse was given, 
and the only subsequent check which it received was in 1814 
and 1815, when it was apprehended that the foreign troops 
who occupied Paris would destroy the garden : by a special 
convention it was however protected from all injury. The 
magnificent cabinet of the Stadthokler was claimed, but it w'as 
afterwards agreed that an equivalent should be furnished from 
the duplicates of the museum. Several valuable gems were re¬ 
turned to the Pope, and many objects of natural history and 
books belonging to emigrants restored. Since that time, how¬ 
ever, the support of this museum has been munificently pro¬ 
vided for by the slate; large funds are annually voted for the 




JARDIN DES PLANTES. 443 

professors and pupils of the institution, and its condition was 
never so flourishing as at the present moment. (See page 78.) 
It is under the control of the Minister of the Interior; and con¬ 
sists of, 1st, a botanical garden, with spacious hot-houses and 
green-houses; 2d, several galleries, in which are scientitically 
arranged collections belonging to the different kingdoms of 
nature; 3d, a gallery of comparative anatomy; 4th, a menagerie 
of living animals; 5th, a library of natural history; and Glh, an 
amphitheatre, with laboratories, etc., for public lectures on 
every branch of science connected with natural history. The 
lectures, which are all public and gratuitous, commence in 
April and last till the end of Autumn, two or three courses 
being carried on together, and the professors succeeding each 
other. The days and hours of admission are to be learnt from 
the notices posted on the doors of the amphitheatre, or at the 
bureau of the establishment, where information upon all points 
connected with the Jardin des Plantes is readily given. 

Garden .—On arriving at the eastern gate, the gallery of Zoo¬ 
logy (or cabinet of natural history) is seen at the opposite ex¬ 
tremity of the garden. On the right and left are tine avenues 
of lime-trees; and beyond, on the right, is the menagerie, ex¬ 
tending to the rue Cuvier; on the left are forest-trees, bor¬ 
dering the rue de liuffon. In front are beds of small plants; the 
nurseries, etc., extending the length of the garden, and con¬ 
taining medicinal, indigenous, exotic, and perennial plants, 
those for domestic uses, and flowers, etc. A sunk enclosure, 
railed round, presents in summer a splendid display of flower¬ 
ing shrubs. The nursery is surrounded by an iron railing, and 
beyond are two beds inclosed with a trellis, appropriated to 
such foreign perennial plants as bear exposure to the winter 
in our climate. To the right are the large inclosures forming 
the “ botanical garden/’ and part of what is called the “school 
of botany.” On the left hand, to the east of the avenue, are 
plantations of forest-trees and shrubs, and a cafe for the accom¬ 
modation of visitors. Farther on are the new geological, mine- 
ralogical, and botanical galleries; opposite, on the west of the 
avenue, are inclosures of fruit-trees and hot-beds; behind on 
a rising ground stands a most extensive range of conservatories 
built of iron, and arranged in the most scientific manner. They 
are warmed by means of hot water, and are sufficiently lofty 
to receive the tall tropical plants. Between the conservatories 
is a path conducting to two mounds. One, called the labyrinth, 
from its numerous intricate paths, is of a conical shape. On the 
ascent is a noble cedar of Lebanon, the first seen in France, 
which Collinson, a wealthy English physician, presented to the 
garden in 1734; it was planted here, the year following, by the 





TWELFTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 


444 

elder Jussieu, and now measures 10'/ 2 feet English in circum¬ 
ference at G feet from the ground. At the top of the hill the 
visitor will find a pavilion, entirely composed ot bronze, with 
seats, from which a view extends over the garden, the greater 
part of Paris, and the distant landscape in the directions of 
Montmartre, Vincennes, and Sceaux. One of the pillars has a 
sun-dial, in reference to which the cornice bears the inscrip¬ 
tion : horas non numero nisi serenas. On the eastern slope is a 
small inclosure, in the centre of which a granite column, 
resting on a base of different minerals, marks the grave of 
Daubenlou. The western hill is a nursery of fir-trees, nearly 
all the known species being planted on its sides. At the foot of 
it is a spacious enclosure, in front of the amphitheatre, with 
the residence of the administrators and professors; a gate 
leads into the rue Cuvier, on the left. This enclosure contains, 
during fine weather, some of the most beautiful trees of New 
Holland, the Cape of Good Hope, Asia Minor, and the Coast of 
Barbary, which are then removed from the green-houses. The 
amphitheatre will hold 1,200 persons, and the various courses 
of lectures are annually attended by about 1,800 students. At 
the door of the amphitheatre stand in summer two Sicilian 
palms, 25 feet in height, which were presented to Louis XIV. 
The total number of species of plants cultivated in the botanical 
department of this establishment is upwards of 12,000. The 
Garden is open daily till nightfall. The hot-houses can only be 
visited by means of a card, not readily obtained, from M. de 
Mirbel, 72, rue St. Dominique St. Germain. Near the amphi¬ 
theatre is the entrance of the 

Menagerie .—When Louis XIV. fixed his residence at Ver¬ 
sailles, the Academy of Sciences prevailed on him to form a 
menagerie in the park. This menagerie increased during the 
reigns of Louis XV. and XVI., but at the Revolution the animals 
being neglected, several of them perished for want of food. 
Those which remained were removed to the Museum in 1794, 
and placed in temporary buildings, and the plan of a mena¬ 
gerie was laid out; it was only, however, by degrees that the ne¬ 
cessary ground was obtained, and the enclosure did not at¬ 
tain its present extent till recently. The space appropriated to 
tame animals is divided into numerous little enclosures, round 
which the public can walk, and which converge in compart¬ 
ments towards a central building, open during the day-time, 
and in which the animals are locked up during the night. At 
the extremity of these parks, and near the river, is the mena¬ 
gerie of wild beasts. The dens, 21 in number, are so arranged 
that the animals may be seen with advantage : a space of four 
feet and strong bars of iron separate them from the public. At 


JARDIN DES PLANTES. 445 

3 o’clock they are removed to cages behind, in order to be fed. 
The collection of wild animals includes two fine lions, a lioness, 
a jackal, leopards, hyenas, etc. In the adjoining enclosures are 
many of the deer and antelope tribes, comfortably lodged, like 
their tame companions, in sylvan huts. The enclosures bordering 
on the avenue are inhabited by sheep, goats, etc., of different 
countries. Next, towards the centre of the menagerie, is a stone 
building, for the monkeys, with a large circular space in front, 
covered with wire-net, where they have ample room for their 
amusing gambols. North of this is the volerie, including a very 
large and valuable series of the eagle and vulture tribes, among 
which those ol Egypt and south America deserve attention; 
here also are many specimens of the parrot-tribe. Adjoining 
this, in a small enclosure, is a colony of tortoises, and at no 
great distance are three gazelles. Here the enclosures begin to 
be peopled with the larger species of quadrupeds, such as buf¬ 
faloes, hemiones, zebras, etc. Next is a graceful semicircular 
pheasant house, divided into spacious cages, containing nume¬ 
rous varieties of that tribe. Nearly opposite, an enclosure con¬ 
tains two kangaroos, and on the other side, in a poultry yard, 
are two black swans from new Holland , besides other aqua¬ 
tic birds. Two buffaloes from Buenos Ayres are hard by. We 
now come to the rotunda, a large pavilion surrounded by se¬ 
veral courts, enclosed by substantial railings, where two ele¬ 
phants, a hippopotamus, a North-American bison, a giraffe, a 
zebra, and a dromedary receive the bounty of the public. Still 
further, there are more poultry-yards, with peacocks, swans, 
cranes, etc., and the adjoining enclosures contain two ostriches 
from Africa, cassowaries, lamas, zebras, etc. Between the 
parks and the botanical garden are three sunken paved 
courts with cells, where three brown bears and a white one 
from Siberia afford much amusement to the public. There 
is also a kind of hot-house, where live snakes and other reptiles 
of southern climates are kept in glass cages, and protected by 
blankets from the cold. The zoologist in this garden is ena¬ 
bled with great advantage to study the instinct and habits of 
animals, the intluence of confinement, etc.; besides which the 
number of dead animals which the collection furnishes is daily 
enriching the museum with most valuable acquisitions. A 
large addition on the west has been made to the space allotted 
for the menagerie, and this part of the establishment is every 
day receiving further development. Open daily from 11 to 6 
in summer, and from ll to 3 in winter. 

Cabinet of Comparative Anatomy .—For this collection, in¬ 
comparably the richest in existence, the museum is indebted 
to the unwearied exertions of Baron Cuvier, by whom it was 

38 


446 TWELFTH ARRONDISSEMENT. 

arranged, and under whose direction most of the objects were 
prepared. It is contained in a building to the west of the 
garden, between the Amphitheatre and the Menagerie. The 1st 
room on the ground floor is devoted to skeletons of the whale 
tribe, and various marine animals, witli a male morse, brought 
by Capt. Parry from the polar regions. In the next room are 
skeletons of the human species from all quarters of the globe, 
of mummies, dwarfs, etc.; the visitor will in particular remark 
that of Soliman el Hhaleby, a learned hut enthusiastic young 
Syrian, by whom Gen. Kleber was assassinated in Egypt; also 
a series of skulls, in which the varying conformation of the 
head from the lower animals up to man is clearly traced, some 
of them found in Egyptian and Etruscan tombs. A suite of eleven 
small rooms or cabinets up stairs contains dissections of birds, 
fishes, and reptiles, besides specimens of the human body. In 
the 1st, 2d, and 3d rooms are detached bones, for the purposes 
of study. In glass cases are placed all the bones of which the 
head is composed; and the visitor will be astonished at the 
prodigious number composing that of a fish. There are also 
a series of all the large hones and the vertebrae of different 
animals, with skeletons of small quadrupeds. In the 4Hi, 5th, 
and 6th rooms we see the skeletons of birds, tortoises, etc.; 
a series of teeth, beginning with those of the horse, and ter¬ 
minating with those of fishes; skeletons of reptiles, such as 
lizards, serpents, toads, and of a great number of fishes. Over 
the cases are those of the boa constrictor, a shark, and a sword¬ 
fish ; and jaws of several species of sharks, the ray, etc. On 
tables are the dried larynx and hyoid bones of birds and quad¬ 
rupeds. The 7th, 8th, and 9th rooms are devoted to the 
muscles, etc. In the first is a cast of the human body without 
the skin, the muscles painted to imitate nature. The cases on 
one side exhibit small figures in wax of human arms and legs; 
on the other the limbs of quadrupeds; in the remaining the 
dissected muscles of several animals preserved in spirits. The 
larynx and trachea of birds are seen on the tables. In phials 
aie preserved a series of brains and eyes : also the bones of the 
ears of animals, from man to reptiles. In the 8th, in a large 
glass case, is a model in wax presenting to view the viscera of a 
child; in another one of the hen, exhibiting the several periods 
of the formation ot the egg, and the internal organs of the 
fowl. Next are seen the organs of circulation, and those of the 
different secretions; a series of hearts of mammalia, reptiles 
and fishes; some injected preparations; and some very delicate 
fmtal preparations of viviparous and oviparous animals; a series 
of monstrosities and foetuses of different ages ; preparations of 
different orders of mollusca; articulated animals and zoo- 



JARDIN DES PLANTES. 447 

phites; and preparations of shell fish in wax. Preparations of 
the viscera are placed in the 10th room. The lllli room con¬ 
tains a small but valuable collection of skulls and casts of dis¬ 
tinguished and notorious characters, highly interesting to the 
craniologist. On descending the stairs to the ground floor will 
he seen the fossil remains of the plesiosauri, said to be ante- 
diluvian animals, found at Lyme Regis and at Glastonbury. 

I here are also skeletons of camels, antelopes, mules, stags, 
horses, tapiis, giiaffes, rhinoceroses, hippopotami, elephants, 
etc. The number ol specimens in this section exceeds 15,000. 
Heads in waxwork of surprising workmanship by M. Calen- 
zuoli, artist to the museum at Florence, have just'been added 
to this cabinet; the first represents the details of the lymphatic 
vessels, the other the nervous system. A colossal bust of Cu¬ 
vier, by David deserves attention. A cabinet of comparative 
anthropology, under the direction of M. Serres, is also esta¬ 
blished. A catalogue may be had at the museum. Strangers 
with passports may obtain tickets for this Cabinet, on Mondays 
and Thursdays, from 11 to 3. 

Gallery of Zoology .—The building which once bore the name 
of Cabinet of Natural History is 390 feet in length. It fronts the 
east at the end of the garden, from which it is separated by a 
court and iron railing, has two stories, besides the ground- 
floor, and is of plain architecture. Considerable additions, it is 
said, are yet to be made to this gallery, which even in its present 
extent is unsurpassed. The zoological collections are classed 
according to the system of Baron de Cuvier; they do not, how¬ 
ever, follow in perfect order, owing to inconveniences arising 
from want of room. Thus, for example, on the ground-floor 
the visitor will find a gallery and room adjoining, in which are 
glass cases with zoophytes, worms, reptiles, etc., which could 
not find room in their proper places. The largest mammalia, 
such as hippopotami, elephants, etc., are also here for the 
same reason. Ascending to the first story, the visitor had best 
proceed at once to the left-hand extremity of the suite of 
rooms he will perceive, and then examine each of the seven 
one after another. In the first and second rooms is a com¬ 
plete collection of tortoises and fishes, some stuffed, others 
preserved in spirits; the largest specimens are suspended from 
the ceiling. The third room contains a very complete collec¬ 
tion of upwards of 2000 reptiles, comprising more than 500 
species, divided into four orders; namely chelonians, or tor-* 
toises; saurians, or lizards, comprehending crocodiles, etc.; 
ophidians, or serpents; and batracians, such as loads, frogs, etc. 
Most of the smaller reptiles are preserved in spirits. In the 
fourth room are exhibited articulated animals without verle- 


TWELFTH ARKONDISSEMENT. 


448 

brae, consisting of about 25,000 species, divided into five classes, 
namely, the crustaceae, the arachnides, the insects, the anne- 
lides, and the worms. Here will also be seen specimens of 
the devastations caused by different species of worms, nests of 
wasps, and other insects, etc. In the same room are the arti¬ 
culated animals without vertebrae, comprehending the shells, 
the echini, and the polypi. The mollusca form two divisions; 
the univalves and bivalves; the first are aquatic and terrestrial; 
all those of the second are aquatic. The fifth room contains 
a large collection of apes; the sixth zoophytes, sponges, nau¬ 
tili, and fossil shells; in the seventh are more specimens of 
fishes, besides a beautiful statue by Dupaty, of white marble, 
representing Vivifying Nature. In a niche in the first room is 
also a marble statue of Buffon, by Pajou. From the last room 
a staircase leads to the second story, consisting of a series of 
6 vaulted rooms, in the first of which are the herbivorous spe¬ 
cies of mammalia, such as giraffes, camels, deer, and other 
horned tribes. Next comes a rich collection of birds, occupy¬ 
ing three rooms, and comprising upwards of 10,000 speci¬ 
mens belonging to 2,500 different species. Glass cases in the 
middle contain insects, such as flies, butterflies, caterpil¬ 
lars, etc., besides shells. In the third room is the marble bust 
of the founder, Guy de la Brosse, by David, and other busts 
adorn the upper shelves of the glass cases along the walls. 
There is also a fine colossal clock by Robin, marking both solar 
and mean time. The fifth room contains the mammalia of the 
rapacious and rodent tribes, such as lions, tigers, weasels, rats, 
foxes, etc., besides seals and other marine animals. The sixth 
is devoted to the marsupialia, kangaroos, etc., and to the bear 
tribe, some of which are also in the vestibule adjoining. The 
whole number of mammalia is calculated at 2,000, comprising 
nearly 500 species; the collection of fishes consists of about 
5,000 specimens, comprising nearly 2,500 species; of the tubi- 
pores, madrepores, millepores, corallines, and sponges, the 
variety is very complete. The total number of specimens of 
the animal kingdom is estimated at upwards of 200,000; and 
their arrangement is so systematic and progressive, that, be¬ 
ginning with the lowest manifestations of animal organisation 
(as in the sponge), we can follow the chain of nature link by link, 
till it arrives at its highest perfection in man. Open to the public 
every Tuesday and Friday, from 2 to 5; to students and stran¬ 
gers with cards (obtained of the administration on producing 
passports) on Mondays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, from ll 
to 3. 

Mineralogical and Geological Gallery .—The splendid collec¬ 
tion of minerals and geological specimens lias been recently 


JARDIN DES PLANTES. 449 

arranged in the new building erected for this purpose on the 
south-western corner of the garden. Externally this edifice is 
not remarkable for its architecture: it consists of two stories, 
and is 540 feet long, by 40 wide, and 30 high. It is divided 
into three compartments by small Doric porticos, surmounted 
by pediments sculptured with appropriate emblems, by Les- 
eorne, placed at about a quarter of the length from each end 
and is lighted partly from above, partly by side windows. The 
central division of the gallery contains the mineralogical and 
geological collection : the eastern division, abutting upon a 
house once occupied by Buffon, contains the library, of Doric 
architecture, an amphitheatre, and other rooms; the western 
division is appropriated to the botanical collections. It con¬ 
sists of a long gallery, lighted from above, with 36 columns, 
which, though Doric, have their friezes adorned with Corinthian 
leaves. The mineralogical and geological section has wide 
elevated galleries on either side, under which are the labora¬ 
tories, corridors, and rooms for the professors and attendants. 
In the centre of the hall is a marble statue of the illustrious 
Cuvier, in the costume of the Council Royal of the University, 
by David, with the proudest of all inscriptions, the names of 
his immortal works. Between this statue and a recess or bal¬ 
cony looking out on the garden, stand marble tables of Flo¬ 
rentine mosaic. A range of horizontal glass cases, occupying 
the centre of the gallery, contains minerals and earths scien¬ 
tifically classed, and in the drawers are similar supplemental 
specimens. In front ol the galleries on the ground-floor are 
ranged vertical glass cases, containing minerals classed accord¬ 
ing to their chemical composition; the specimens used to 
illustrate the courses ol the professors are placed in horizon¬ 
tal ones : underneath are drawers with supplemental speci¬ 
mens. In front of the bases of the pillars are vertical cases, 
containing the minerals, etc., used in arts and manufactures, 
in their various states. The galleries contain on the western 
side all the known rocks and earths arranged geologically; on 
the eastern, the fossils found in the various geological forma¬ 
tions. The whole is admirably arranged, and the facilities for 
examination very great, (t) The mineralogical collection is di¬ 
vided into four grand classes : 1, earths containing an acid; 2, 
earthy substances or stones; 3, inflammable substances; 4 me¬ 
tals. Of the first two classes the most interesting specimens 
are the phosphate, fluate, nitrate, and arseniate of lime; a fine 

(0 Too much praise cannot be given to Professors Brongniart and 
Cordicr, under whose superintendence this division of the museum is 
placed, and whose anxiety to afford information, and polite attention to 
foreigners, are too well known to need comment. 


450 TWELFTH AliUONDISSEMENT. 

crystal of Icelandic calcareous spar; metastatic crystals from 
Derbyshire; satin spar; the aluminous fluale of silex, which 
furnishes several gems for jewellery; the borate of soda; and 
the alkaline fluale of alumine, Several of these specimens, par¬ 
ticularly of the yellow, red, and white topaz, are remarkably 
beautiful. The second class of minerals, namely, that of slones 
or earthy substances, are hyaline quartz, the rose-coloured or 
Bohemian ruby, the blue, the yellow or Indian topaz, the 
yellow-brown topaz, the dark green and dull red agates, 
among which we may distinguish chalcedony, cornelian, sar¬ 
donyx, quartz resinile; the sanguine jasper; the corundum, 
including the ruby, topaz, and Oriental sapphire; the chryso- 
beryl, the chrysolite, the emerald, the beryl, the cordiarite, 
the euclase, and the garnet; felspar; the tourmaline, amphi- 
bole, and pyroxene; lapis lazuli; some large slabs of mica, etc. 
Among various objects belonging to this collection are a su¬ 
perb vase of the brecciated porphyry of the Vosges, two large 
groups of crystals of colourless quartz; several cups of agate, 
chalcedony, lapis lazuli, etc. Among the inflammable sub¬ 
stances and metals are, native sulphur, a series of diamonds, 
rough and cut, solid and liquid bitumen, and yellow amber. 
Of the latter, several pieces contain insects enveloped by the 
amber when in its liquid state, without injuring their form. In 
the class of metallic substances are specimens of gold and silver, 
among which should be noticed a piece of massive gold fr<tm 
Peru, which weighs 16 '/.< ounces; a line specimen of native 
silver from Mexico, and the different combinations of silver with 
sulphur and antimony, and the carbonic and muriatic acids; 
specimens of platina; quicksilver; lead, in every combination 
of colour; the different varieties of copper; a numerous collec¬ 
tion of aerolites, including one of enormous dimensions; iron 
ores; various specimens of oxide of tin, zinc, and bismuth; 
arsenic, manganese, antimony, uranium, molybdena, titanium, 
tungsten, tellurium, and chrome. The collection of minerals is 
one of the most precious in existence, on account of the great 
number of choice specimens which it possesses, and the ex¬ 
cellent order in which they are distributed. The riches of this 
division ot the institution were greatly augmented in 1825 by 
a donation from Charles X. of a fine mineralogical collection 
purchased by the civil list for 300,000 fr.; and continual addi¬ 
tions by gift or purchase are being made to it. The specimens 
of geological rocks are all very large and fine, admitting of the 
most detailed examination. The fossils are peculiarly valuable 
and complete; the greater number being accompanied by a 
portion of the earth or rock in which they were imbedded. The 
series ofinvertebrated animals ami of fossil fishes is very interest- 


JARDIN DES PLANTES. 


451 

ing. The specimens of the tertiary formations are remarkably 
tine, and attest the zeal of the great Cuvier, to whom the whole 
of this part of the museum may be said to owe its existence. The 
directors of the museum with great liberality have presented 
models, accurately coloured, of the more important or the 
rarer fossils, to foreign institutions, from which an interchange 
of presents has arisen. The number of mineralogical and geolo¬ 
gical specimens exceeds (>0,000. The days and hours of admis¬ 
sion are the same as for the preceding gallery. 

Botanical Gallery .—This collection comprises, in the rooms 
of the upper division, of Doric design, a general herbal, con¬ 
sisting of about 50,000 species. It was founded by Vaillant, and 
gradually augmented by Commerson, Dambey, Mace, Poileau, 
Leschenault, etc. There are also separate herbals of New Hol¬ 
land, Cayenne, the Antilles, the Cape, India, Egypt, etc., herbals 
which served as models for printed works, such as that of Mi- 
chaux; that of the Plants of France, by M. de Candolle; that 
of M. de Humboldt, etc. The ancient herbal of Tournefort, 
arranged and ticketed by his hand, and that of Gundelsheimer, 
have been carefully preserved. In the lower division is a very 
extensive collection of woods of all kinds, with specimens ol 
the epidermis, the bark, the roots, etc., of many of the larger 
kinds of trees and plants. A numerous and very valuable series 
of fruits, etc., preserved in spirits of wine, constitutes one of 
the subdivisions of this section, and also two cabinets of the 
fungous family in wax, presented to the museum by the Em¬ 
peror of Austria and by Charles X. The latter, executed by De 
Pinson, is valued at 20,000 fr. A collection of foreign fruits, 
in wax and plaster, is also entitled to attention. The collection 
of drugs of the Garden of Plants, with considerable additions, 
is kept in this room, and a very interesting collection of lossil 
plants from the various coal formations has been arranged by 
M. Ad. Brongniart. The total number of dried plants preserved 
here exceeds 350,000; and of woods, fruits, and grains, 
more than 4,500. The visitor will observe in the ante-room a 
fine statue of Jussieu, by Heral. Days and hours of admission 
the same as the preceding, Saturdays excepted. The school 
for Botany is carefully arranged ; the visitor may at once know 
the nature of the various plants by the colours of the tickets; 
the red denote medicinal, the green alimentary plants; the 
blue those used in the arts, the yellow ornamental, and the 
black poisonous plants. It is open from three to five every 

day. .. 

Library .—The library is composed of works on natural his¬ 
tory. Opposite the entrance is a bust of Fourcroy. Most ot its 
printed works are to be met with in every public library, but 


452 TWELFTH ARRONDISSEME NT. 


the manuscripts, accompanied with original designs, and the 
magnificent paintings of fruit and flowers, upon vellum, form 
an unrivalled collection. It was commenced in 1635, and now 
fills 90 portfolios, with upwards of 6,000 drawings, the total 
value of which is estimated at two millions of francs. The li¬ 
brary contains 30,000 volumes and 15,000 pamphlets.—Open to 
the public, from April l to Sept. 1, every day, Sundays and 
Thursdays excepted, from 11 to 3; and from Sept. 1 to March 
31, at the same hours, on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays. 

It is almost needless to add that the Musee d’Histoire Natu- 
relle stands at the head of all institutions of the kind not only 
in France but in Europe. Its most valuable part is perhaps the 
Cabinet of Comparative Anatomy, arranged by Cuvier; but the 
Cabinet of Natural History, if not so precious, is more extensive. 
Many weeks would be requisite to inspect this immense museum 
in detail, and much scientific knowledge to be able duly to 
appreciate its contents. As naturalists, the professors of this 
institution are highly distinguished, worthy to teach in the 
schools founded by the illustrious Buflon and Cuvier. (1) 

Behind the Jardin des Plantes is the 

Hopital de la Pitie, l, rue Copeau.—This hospital was founded 
in 1612, and is so called because its chapel was dedicated to 
Notre Dame de la Pitie. From its foundation until 1809 it was 
used as an asylum for orphan children. It was then annexed to 
the Hotel Dieu. The buildings are spacious, and contain 750 
beds. The average number of patients is 10,750; and the mor¬ 
tality 1 in 10.50. Physicians, Drs. Serres, Gendrin, Clement, 
Piorry, and Piedagnel; surgeons, Messrs. Laugier and Giraldes. 
Clinical lectures are given by Lisfranc, Gendrin, Berard, and 
Piorry. The Saurs de Ste. Marthe attend the patients. Strangers 
are admitted on applying at the Bureau. Gratuitous consulta¬ 
tions are held from 8 to 10 every morning. The chapel contains 
five pictures by Lecerf. 

Opposite to this, corner of rues Cuvier and St. Victor, is the 

Fontaine Cuvier, or du Jardin des Plantes.— This fountain 
replaces one built in 1761, after the designs of Bernini, against 
one of the boundary towers of the enclosure of the Abbey St. 
Victor ol the I5lli century, which remained entire (the only 


(0 There is some intention of boring an artesian well in the Jardin 
des Plantes, to the depth of about 3, ooo feet, that at Grenelle being i 700. 
According to the calculations of Messrs. Arago and Walferdin, founded 
on experiments made at the latter place, it is estimated that the tem¬ 
perature of water from such a depth would range from 97 to 104 Fah¬ 
renheit, with which the hot-houses of the Jardin des Plantes and 
Menagerie, and even the wards and baths of the neighbouring hospitals 

might be constantly warmed and supplied. " ’ 


MAISON SCIPION. 


453 

relic of the old Abbey) till very lately. The present fountain 
was planned by M. Alphonse Vigoureux, the architect, and is 
dedicated to the illustrious savant whose name is thus inscribed 
over the entablature—“ A Georges Cuvier.” The ornaments 
of this monument are very elaborate. It is composed of a lofty 
lialf-circular pedestal, supporting two Ionic columns, between 
which a female figure seated on a lion represents the genius of 
Natural History, with an owl at her side; above is an eagle with 
a lamb in its talons. In her left hand, the figure holds a tablet, 
on which are inscribed the words “ Rerum cognoscere causas,” 
and at her feet are a number of marine and land animals. The 
volutes of the capitals of the columns are made up of spiral 
shells, cleverly arranged; the entablature and spandrils of the 
arch are sculptured in the same taste. A half-circular frieze, 
or band, on the lop of the pedestal is sculptured with heads of 
men and of animals. Water issues from the mouths of three 
lizards, placed at regular intervals around the pedestal, and 
falls into a semicircular iron basin. Messrs. Feucheres and 
Pomaratau were the sculptors. 

At the corner of the rue des Fosses St. Marcel is a fountain 
erected to commemorate the revolution of 1830. In the adjoin¬ 
ing rue du Fer a Moulin is the 

Amphitheatre of Anatomy, an establishment of anatomical 
schools, recently built on the site of the ancient cemetery of 
Clamart, which had long been unused as a place of burial. It 
consists of well-ventilated galleries, one story high, lighted 
from the roof, a museum, a theatre for lectures, and several 
small private rooms for dissection. Bodies are removed hither 
from the hospitals; the number used for dissection here and at 
the Ecole Pratique is said to exceed 4,000 annually. (See p. 101.) 

The same building gives entrance to the 

Cimetiere de Ste. Catherine. —It has been closed since 1815, 
and the only interesting monument is that erected to General 
Pichegru, interred here in 1804, and who, as the reader will 
recollect, was implicated in a conspiracy against Napoleon. 

At the end of the street is the Place Scipion; in front is the 

Maison Scipion.— Under the reign of Henry III., a rich Italian, 
named Scipion Sardini, built an hotel on this spot, which was 
purchased in 1622, to form an asylum for aged and infirm men. 
In 1636, it was given to the Hdpital de la Salpetriere for its 
slaughter-house, baking-office, etc. It now forms a general 
bake-house for all the hospitals and hospices. Strangers arc 
allowed to visit this immense establishment. 


454 


THEATRES. 


PLACES OF PUBLIC AMUSEMENT. 


THEATRES. 


The drama in France and England took its rise from the 
mysteries, or sacred dramas, represented by the pilgrims re¬ 
turned Irom the holy land. In Paris a company was formed in 
the reign of Charles VI., under the name of Confreres de la 
Passion, who for a long period performed with applause, 
although with sacred subjects they associated indecent gestures 
and allusions. The interest excited by the novelty of their 
representations having subsided, they united with a new troop 
called Enfants sans souci, who acted farces enlivened with 
songs. About the year 1570, several Italian companies came to 
Paris, but their representations exciting the jealousy of the 
Confreres de la Passion, whose privileges were always respected 
by the Parlement, their continuance was not of long duration. 
Shortly afterwards the French stage began to acquire a degree 
of consequence which it had never before attained, and several 
dramatic writers, among them Hardy, appeared about the time 
ol Henry IV. Cardinal Richelieu had two theatres in his palace, 
in whi( h vvei e performed tragedies, and melodramas composed 
by himself with the assistance of Corneille, Rolrou, Colletet, and 
others. About the year 1G60, a number of young men, at the 
head ol whom was Moliere, formed a company, and erected a 
theatre, which they called “ le Thedtre Illustre.” In 1G58 thev 
performed before Louis XIV. in the Salle des Gardes at the 
Louvre, who, being satisfied with their performance, assigned 
them a gallery in the Hotel du Petit Bourbon as a theatre 
In 1GG0, they removed to the Theatre du Palais Royal, built 
by Cardinal Richelieu, and assumed the title of “ la troupe 
royale.” (l) Under the reigns of Louis XV. and XVI., the num¬ 
ber of theatres in Paris augmented considerably. The privileges 
of the French comedians and of the Opera (2) being abolished 


( 1 ) For much interesting information upon the early dramatic history 

of France, see History of Paris, 3 vols. 8vo. ^ 

( 2 ) The invention of the Opera is attributed to two Florentines Ot¬ 
tavio Rinucci a poet, and Giacomo Corsi, a musician, about the com¬ 
mencement of the 16 th century, when a grand lyric spectacle entitled 
the Amours of Apollo and Circe w'as first played with success at the 
court of the Grand Duke of Tuscany. It was introduced into France by 
Cardinal Mazann, and in 1669 letters patent were granted to the -ihho 
Perrm to establish academies of music in France. The opening 
Academic m Pans look placein May 167. with an Opera called Pomona 
Ihe words by ihe abbe Perrin, the music by Gambert, organi ITof 


THEATRES. 455 

at the Revolution, a great number of smaller ones sprang up. 
Napoleon in 1807 issued a decree by which all the theatres in 
Paris (amounting to thirty) were suppressed, except eight, on 
a compensation being made to the others. Alter the Restoration, 
several new ones were opened, and the drama was encouraged 
by government, which allotted annually a sum out of the civil 
list for the support of the various theatres. Since 1830, the 
number has been slightly augmented. Though dramatic taste 
is said to be on the decline, the receipts of the theatres increase, 
and are at the present moment from seven to eight millions of 
francs per annum. (1) By an admirable provision of the law of 
France, all places of public amusement pay one-tenth of their 
receipts for the maintenance of hospitals and charitable insti¬ 
tutions. The produce of this lax in 1846 was 1,046,526 fr. 
About 1,150,000 fr. is now annually voted by the legislature, 
on the budget of the Minister of the Interior, towards the sup¬ 
port of some of the principal theatres. It is done in order that 
the French Opera may be enabled to give those splendid re¬ 
presentations for which it is unrivalled. (2) In the case of the 
Thedtrc Francais, this subsidy is intended to counteract the 
decline of the public taste, and its indifference towards the 
more classic productions of the stage. At the Opera Comique, 
the assistance of the legislature enables the administration of 
that theatre to cultivate and encourage a taste for the lighter 
styles of national music. The subsidy granted to the Oddon 
is on account of that theatre having to struggle against the 
quarter of the town in which it lies, and which is so great as 
to oblige it to be closed for several months in summer. The 
interests of dramatic authors in France are well secured. In 
England the system has lately been assimilated to that esta¬ 
blished here. French authors receive during life a proportion 

St. Ilonore. The first musicians and singers of the grand Opera were 
taken from the cathedrals, principally from Languedoc. In 1762 the 
privilege was transferred to Lully, under whose direction, and the 
poetical co-operation of Quinault, it acquired the vogue which it has 
maintained up to the present day. 

(1) There are in France, it is stated, 3,500 actors, 2,900 actresses, and 
16,000 individuals attached in one way or other to theatres, making a 
total of 22,000 persons living upon the budget of Thalia and Melpomene, 
which is estimated at 30,000,000 fr. If these 30 millions were divided 
equally, each person would not have 1,500 fr. a-year; but as some of the 
privileged have io, 20, 30, and 40,000 fr., it is easy to conceive how small 
must be the income of a large portion, and the misery that must exist 
in the dramatic career. 

(2) The Italian Opera used to receive 70,000 fr., but this subsidy was 
done away with by the Chambers in 1840, the prosperous condition of 
the theatre not requiring it. 


THEATRES. 


456 

of the profits of their works whenever represented in any of 
the theatres of the kingdom, and the same benetit devolves to 
their heirs for a period of ten years. Ttie remuneration from 
a royal theatre is, for a piece of three or five acts, one-twelfth 
of two-thirds of the gross receipts, and for a piece of one act, 
one twenty-fourth. It is needless in this place to offer any cri¬ 
ticism on the dramatic writers of France, whose works are too 
well known to need comment. The French stage at the present 
moment is justly proud of Scribe, Victor Hugo, and Alexandre 
Dumas, associated with whom are the distinguished names of 
Auber, Adam, and Halevy, all entitled to a foremost rank as 
men of genius. Till the reign of Louis XIV. women did not 
appear on the stage, female characters being performed by men 
in woman’s attire; and till a much later period all characters 
were played in the dress of the court of “ the grand mon¬ 
arch.” (1) Talma was the first actor who gave that decided 
correctness of taste to the French stage for which it is now so 
celebrated; and ever since his day, but more particularly at 
the present lime, there are to be found, at the great theatres 
of Paris, accurate and animated tableaux vivants of the times 
and costumes, etc., relating to the pieces. The theatres of Paris 
are well regulated, and the intrusion of improper characters, 
and disturbances of every kind, are prevented ; a strong con¬ 
trast being exhibited in this respect to the theatres of London, 
and altogether to the advantage of those of Paris. Municipal 
guards are stationed at all the avenues, and preserve order in 
the interior. The visitors who await the opening of the doors 
are arranged in Files of two or three abreast; and although the 
crowd probably consists of several hundreds, but little pressure 
or inconvenience is felt, and every person is admitted in his 
turn. Such, indeed, is the ardour for theatrical amusements 
exhibited by the population of Paris, that a crowd, or queue 
as it is commonly called, may always be found at the door of 
any popular theatre for several hours before the time of admis¬ 
sion. Persons who proceed to theatres in hired cabriolets, or 
fiacres, are required to pay the fare beforehand, in order that 
the driver may depart immediately, and thus avoid any delay 
at the door. On leaving the theatre, not the smallest confusion 

(1) Mine. Favart, an eminent actress who flourished in the middle of 
the last century, was the lirst to infringe the absurd custom of playing 
Achilles in a court dress with a helmet over his wig, and Clytemnestra 
in a hoop. She appeared for the lirst time in Baslien el Basiienne , a play 
of her own composition, in the real costume Of a peasant, without curls 
and with wooden shoes on. She was generally criticized for it, but the 
Abb6 Voisenon took her part, saying; “Messieurs, ces sabots donne- 
ront des souliers aux comediens.” 


THEATRES. 


457 

takes place. No person is permitted to call his carriage until 
he is actually wailing for it at the door; and should the owner 
not step into it at the moment, it is ordered off by the police, 
to make way for another. The pit of French theatres is gene¬ 
rally appropriated to men alone, hut some of the minor ones 
admit women. The best place for connoisseurs is the orchestre, 
or row of stalls immediately behind the musicians, and next to 
this is, in general, the more fashionable balcon, in front of the 
first row of boxes, which last are for the most part small, 
holding from 4 to (5 persons. In many of the theatres a small 
gallery extends round the front of each tier; these are called 
the gcileries, and, though good places, and cheaper than the 
boxes, are not so comfortable. The galleries above, called 
ampkithedtres, or paradis, are frequented by the populace, 
and are the lowest-priced places of the house. The prices of 
admission will be found subjoined to the description of each 
theatre. It must be observed that the French names of places 
are retained, being those for which the visitor must ask; thus 
loges means boxes; baignoires, boxes on the pit tier; de face, 
front; de cute, side; parterre, pit. On taking places beforehand, 
for the advantage of choosing and securing places, about one- 
fourth more is paid than at the doors; a measure not only 
absurd but also prejudicial to the interests of the theatres, since, 
from the prices being already sufficiently dear, it hinders many 
people from taking places beforehand. It has long been the 
custom for men, who make a trade of it, to purchase tickets 
either from the directors of the theatres, who, in consideration 
of the large number they take, sell them cheap to these per¬ 
sons, or else, on a new piece anxiously expected coming out, 
to forestall the public by buying up at the door nearly all the 
tickets for the best places on sale, and then to sell them outside 
to the public; in the former case, at lower prices than are paid 
at the doors; in the latter, at any price they choose to ask. 
This trade has been forbidden by the police, and these clan¬ 
destine dealers are now liable to prosecution, but this does not 
hinder them from continuing the traffic. 

The Theatres of Paris and the Banlieue afford accommoda¬ 
tion to a total of 30,000 persons. 

We do not give the names of the actors attached to each 
theatre, as they vary frequently, and may, besides, be easily 
known to the theatrical amateur from the criticism of the 
journals. We would recommend the visitor to go to all the 
theatres, as he will nowhere in so short a time obtain a belter 
knowledge of the manners and character of the French people. 

The Academie Boyale de Musique, or French Opera-House, 
intended only for a temporary building, was erected in the 

39 


THEATRES. 


458 

space of a year, by M.Debret, architect, being intended to re¬ 
place, as speedily as possible, the opera-house then in the rue 
de Richelieu, at the door of which, it will be remembered, the 
Duke de Berry was assassinated, in 1820—(see page 222)—and 
which caused its immediate demolition by order of the govern¬ 
ment. The present building has, however, stood so long that it 
may be questioned whether any change with regard to it will 
take place for years to come. It communicates with three streets 
—the rue Lepelletier for carriages, rue Pinon for fiacres, and 
rue Grange Bateliere for persons on foot. Two passages, skirted 
with shops, also form a communication with the Boulevard 
Ilalien. The front consists of a series of arcades on the ground 
floor, forming a double vestibule. At each end a wing projects, 
and between these wings, from the top of the arcades, is a light 
awning supported by cast-iron pillars, beneath which carriages 
set down. On the first floor is a range of nine arcades, com¬ 
bining the Ionic and Doric orders, which form the windows of 
the saloon. The elevation of the front is G4 feet. The second or 
interior vestibule is ornamented with Doric columns, and on 
each side of it is a staircase leading to the first row of boxes 
and the saloon. From the lobby two other staircases lead to 
the pit, the baignoires, and the orchestra. Between the latter 
and the lobbies of the stage boxes are two staircases, leading 
to the top of the building, and so numerous are the outlets that 
the house may be cleared in fifteen minutes. The interior will 
accommodate 1,937 persons; its dimensions are 68 feet from side 
to side, with a stage 42 feet in breadth by 82 in depth. Beneath 
the latter is a space for machinery 32 feet deep; the wall be¬ 
tween the house and the stage rises above the roof, and in case 
of fire the communication between the two can be entirely cut 
off by an iron curtain, while ventilators can be opened to carry 
the flames in any direction. Reservoirs of water are placed 
under the roof. The saloon is 18G feet in length, extending 
throughout the entire breadth of the building, and is one of 
the finest ball-rooms in Paris. The opera is conducted under 
the superintendence of the government, and receives an annual 
subsidy of 750,000 fr., besides 130,000 fr. for pensions. The act¬ 
ors are, in the vocal department, pupils of the Conservatoire 
de Musique, and, in the corps de ballet, consist of the most 
distinguished dancers of the day. The representations at this 
establishment are always got up in the most admirable and 
unrivalled style; the utmost attention is paid to costume, and 
general effect. The scenic department especially has long been 
renowned as almost unrivalled at any other Theatre in Europe, 
and the coup-d’oeil here presented by the stage in some of the 
more gorgeous operas and ballets is unequalled for taste and 


THEATRES. 459 

magnificence. Performances take place on Mondays, Wed¬ 
nesdays, and Fridays, and sometimes on Sundays. 

Prices of Admission.— Stalles de parterre, 4 fr. Orchestra, amphi¬ 
theatre et galerie des premieres, 7 fr. 50 c. Premieres loges de face, 
avanl-scenes des premieres et du rez-de-chaussee, 9 fr. Baignoires et 
loges des galeries,6 fr. Baleon des premieres, deuxiemes loges de face, 
avant-scenes des deuxiemes, 7 fr. 50 c. Deuxiemes de cdte et troisidmes 
de face, 5 fr. Troisiemes de cdte et quatriemes de face. 3 fr. 50 c. Qua¬ 
triemes de cdte, amphitheatre des quatriemes de face, 2 fr. 50 c.—Doors 
open at 6 ; performances begin at 7. 

Italian Opera, rue Marsollier.—This company occupied the 
Salle Favart, now the Opera Gomique, boulevard des llaliens, 
until its destruction by fire in 1S3S. The performances were 
subsequently transferred to the Salle Yentadour, then to the 
Odeon, and have now again been removed to the former theatre, 
which had in the mean time assumed the name of “ Theatre 
de la ltenaissance.” The present building was erected on the 
site of the hotel occupied by the Minister of Finance, after the 
designs of Messrs. Huveand de Guerchy; it is 154 feet in length 
by 110 in breadth. The principal front is divided into two sto¬ 
ries, crowned by an attic; the lower story presents a range of 
nine arches, with Doric engaged columns, and in the upper 
story the arched windows of the saloon correspond with the 
arcades beneath, and are separated by Ionic columns. Above 
the entablature, and in front of the attic, are eight statues of 
the Muses, Urania being omitted, blank arcades, continued along 
the sides and back of the building, support the upper story 
with ils balustraded windows. The interior of the theatre, 
which is semicircular, contains four tiers, of which the two 
first are double, having open boxes in front, and partitioned 
ones behind. Some of the boxes on the first tier have small 
saloons attached. The panels of the house are white, with 
richly-gilt ornaments, and the linings of the boxes, cushions, etc., 
are in dark red velvet. The balcons and orchestra are divided 
into ranges of stalls, each forming an arm-chair. The ceiling, 
which is beautifully painted by Ferri, in lozenge-shaped com¬ 
partments, represents a cupola, through which a blue sky is 
apparently seen. The figures which support it are hy Klagmann. 
The saloon on the first story is richly decorated; and on the 
ground floor an inner vestibule, well-warmed, communicates 
with the outer one, for the convenience of parlies waiting for 
their carriages. This theatre holds 1200 persons. The perform¬ 
ances, which are of the highest merit, take place on Tuesdays, 
Thursdays, and Saturdays, and sometimes on Mondays or 
Sundays. The season lasts only six months, from 1st of October 
to 31st of March. 

Prices of Admission. —Premieres et secondes loges de face, rez-de- 


THEATRES. 


460 

chaussee de face, et stalles, 10 fr. Secondes de c6te, loges du rez-de- 
chaussee, 7 fr. 50 c. Troisidme de face, 6 fr. Troisiemes de cdte, 5 fr. 
Quatridme loges, 4 fr. Parterre, 4 fr.—Doors open at 7; performances 
begin at 8. 

Theatre de l’Opera Comique, Place des Italiens.—The front 
is adorned with a handsome portico of six Ionic columns, and 
the edifice, constructed almost entirely of stone and iron, is 
fire-proof. The interior is elliptical, with three tiers of boxes. 
Around the pit is a circle of baignoires, some arranged as boxes, 
the others as stalles. Above is a first and second gallery, the 
former with two rows of stalles. The seats of the pit are so 
placed that the spectator’s eye is on a level with the stage. 
To every second box is attached a small saloon, affording an 
agreeable retreat between the acts from the glare and heat of 
the theatre. A bell from each enables the visitors to summon 
attendants with ices and refreshments, without the trouble of 
leaving the box. The decorations are white and gold, the 
ground white, with raised ornaments, in copper, richly gilt. 
The ceiling is of good execution, containing the portraits of 
Boieldieu, Grelry, and other composers, in various medallions. 
The royal box is on the left. A large saloon, of Corinthian 
architecture, decorated in the same style as the house, and 
furnished with divans, is on the first floor behind the boxes. 
In the cellars, machinery forces through pipes a supply of fresh 
air, cooled by ice, into the body of the salle, and openings in 
the ceiling give egress to the vitiated atmosphere. The light 
agreeable character of the music, which formerly distinguished 
the Op dr a Comique, has given place of late years to a more 
elaborate style, more scientific perhaps, but less popular.' 
Auber and Halevy, however, preserve the ancient character 
of this school, and, from the favour with which their composi¬ 
tions are received, a reform may be expected. The singers, 
with a few exceptions, are second-rate. Government annually 
grants to this theatre the sum of 246,000 fr. 

Prices of Admission.— Loges de la premiere galerie, avec salons, pre¬ 
mieres loges de face, avant-scenes de baignoires, 7 fr. 50 c. Fauteuils et 
stalles de balcon, loges de la premiere galerie, sans salons, premieres 
loges de face, sans salons, 6 lr. Fauteuils d’orchcstre etde premiere ga¬ 
lerie, avant-scenes de premieres loges, baignoires, avec ou sans salons 
o fr. 1 reroieres loges de cole, avant-scenes des loges de la deuxieme 
galerie, 4 fr. Deuxieme galerie, 3 fr. Parterre, loges de la deuxieme ga- 
leiie de face, 2 fr. 50 c. Avant-scenes des troisiemes loges, troisiemes 
loges, 2 fr. Amphitheatre, l fr.—Doors open a16; performances beginat 7 . 

Theatre Francis.—' This theatre is in the rue Richelieu at 
the south-west corner of the Palais Royal, and was begun’ by 
the Duke of Orleans, in 1787, after the designs of Louis. It is 


THEATRES. 461 

166 feet in length by 105 in breadth, and its total height, to the 
summit of the terrace, is 100 feet. The principal front, towards 
the rue Richelieu, presents a peristyle of the Doric order : 
another front, partly facing the rue de Monlpensier, and partly 
attached to the Palais Royal, displays a range of arcades, resting 
on square pillars, and continued round the building, forming 
a covered gallery. On both fronts is a range of Corinthian 
pilasters, with an entablature pierced by small windows : there 
are two other stories, an attic, and a deep roof crowned by a 
terrace, llie vestibule is of an elliptical form, and the ceiling 
rests on two concentric rows of fluted Doric columns. In llie 
centre is a fine marble statue of Voltaire, by Houdon. The 
vestibule communicates with the lobbies by four staircases. The 
interior form of the house is elliptical; and the total number 
of places is 1522. The saloon, and an adjoining gallery, contain 
numerous busts of distinguished French dramatists. An inter¬ 
esting collection of various objects connected with Moliere and 
other celebrities ot the French drama has been formed here. 
The performances at this theatre, which is the standard one of 
the whole country, used to be strictly limited to the most cor¬ 
rect and the highest style of tragedy and regular comedy. 
Some relaxation of this rule has, however, taken place by the 
admission of the productions of M. Victor Hugo, M. Alex. Dumas, 
M. Scribe, etc., which, with all their merits, certainly do not 
reach the elevation of style heretofore deemed essential to the 
highest order of the drama. Of the performers, Mile. Mars 
nearly alone sustained for a time the ancient renown of this 
national theatre, and comedy was consequently in the ascen¬ 
dant ; but since her death, the classic tragedy of France has 
vindicated its rights, principally by the powers of a young 
and admirable performer, Mile. Rachel, who in the highest 
walks of tragedy has attained the same eminence as that inimi¬ 
table actress in comedy. For the support of this theatre, 
240,000 fr. are annually allotted by Government. 

Prices of Admission— Stalles, loges de la galerie, du rez-de-chaussee, 
balcon, premieres de face, et avant-sc£nes des premieres, 6 fr. 60 c. 
Orchestre, 5 fr. Premieres de cdte, premiere galerie, 5 fr. Secondes 
logos, 4 fr. Seconde galerie, 3 fr. Troisi^mes loges, 2 fr. 75 c. Parterre, 
2 fr. 20 c. Seconde galerie, l fr. 80 c.—Doors open at 6; performances 
begin at 7. 

The Odeon, or, as it is called, the Second Theatre Francais, 
was built in 1779, burnt down in 1799, and rebuilt in 1807. 
The interior was a second time destroyed by fire in 1818, but 
restored in 1820. The exterior is 168 feet in length, 112 ill 
breadth, and 64 in height. The principal front is ornamented 
with a portico of eight Doric columns ascended by steps. The 


THEATRES. 


462 

vestibule is small; two handsome stone staircases lead from it 
to the interior, which holds JGOO persons. The decorations are 
tastefully executed, giving the theatre a light and elegant ap¬ 
pearance, and the saloon is handsome. Upon the last restora¬ 
tion of this theatre every possible precaution was adopted in 
case of fire to prevent the flames extending from one part of 
the building to another. The performances here consist of tra¬ 
gedies, comedies, and other dramatic pieces. The director of 
the company has the theatre rent-free from Government, and 
also an annual subsidy of 60,000 fr. 

Prices of Admission. —Avant-scenes du rez-de-chaussee, 6 fr. Bal- 
con, 4 fr. Premieres loges de face, 5 fr. Avant-scenes des deuxiemes, 
4 fr. Premieres loges decouvertes et pourtour, 4 fr. Deuxiemes loges 
fermees, avant-scenes des troisiemes, 3 fr. Stalles d’orcheslre, 4 fr. 
Baignoires, 3 fr. Deuxiemes decouvertes, 2 fr. Troisiemes, l fr. 50 c. 
Parterre, l fr. 50 c. 

Theatre Historique, Boulevard du Temple.—This new 
theatre, built by M. Alexandre Dumas, the celebrated novelist, 
on the site of the Hotel Foulon, was first intended to be called 
Thedtre Montpensier, in honour of the prince of that name, by 
whose intervention the privilege was obtained; but the Duke 
having modestly declined the compliment, it was opened in 
April 1847 under its present title. The nature of the perform¬ 
ances to which it is devoted is not indeed limited to historical 
subjects, as it comprises the entire range of the drama, though 
probably what is called the “ Romantic” would best express 
the kind of productions for which the theatre was originally 
intended. The front is narrow, and far from adequate to the 
size of the building; two wings of plain design retire obliquely 
from it on either side. Notwithstanding this disagreeable 
defect, the central body is tastefully designed. The entrance 
is Hanked by two couples of fluted Ionic columns; the flutes 
interrupted by two broad sculptured bands; two statues, re¬ 
presenting Tragedy and Comedy, support the flat architrave 
of the entrance. The vestibule is semicircular, with Ionic co¬ 
lumns. Above the entablature a vast semicircular niche oc¬ 
cupies the front; it is flanked by two coupled caryatides, 
representing, to the right, Hamlet and Ophelia; to the left, 
the Cid and Celimena; they support an interrupted circular 
pediment, adorned with a winged statue of the Genius of His¬ 
tory; at his feel are the emblems of the drama. All these 
sculptures are by the hand of M. Klagmann. The frieze and 
semicupola of Hie niche arc painted in fresco by Guichard. In 
the latter is a central group of line execution; Poetry leading 
by llie hand Comedy and Tragedy, bearing their respective 
attributes, the comic mask, and the classic poniard. Around, 


THEATRES. 


463 

doing them homage, are twenty-six of the most celebrated 
tragedians, musicians, and comedians of different nations and 
ages. To the right, are Eschylus, Sophocles, Euripides, Seneca, 
Shakspearc, Corneille, Racine, Voltaire, Schiller, Talma, Nour- 
rit, Gluck, and Mehul. To the left, Aristophanes, Menander, 
Plautus, Terence, Moliere, Goethe, Lope de Vega, Cervantes, 
Regnard, Marivaux, Mile. Mars, Mozart, and Gretry. In the 
frieze, various compartments represent: the temple of Bac- 
chus, scenes from Medea, Phmdra, Othello, Cinna , the Mi¬ 
santhrope, the Bourgeois Gentilhomme, Faust, Mahomet, Wil¬ 
liam Tell, and the Avare. The niche is Corinthian and fronted 
with a balustrade bearing four lamp-posts. The most striking 
feature of this theatre is the interior, consisting of a vast el¬ 
liptical amphitheatre in front of the stage, twenty metres in 
breadth, and only sixteen in depth; by which means the stage 
is viewed from any point under equaliy favourable conditions. 
Three tiers of spacious galleries occupy the whole perimeter 
intended for the public, and are Hanked by two elegant pa¬ 
vilions of Corinthian architecture, and surmounted by highly 
ornamented circular pediments; these pavilions contain the 
stage-boxes, furnished in the most elegant style. The other 
boxes of the galleries are accommodated with small sitting- 
rooms behind, like those of the Opera Comique. Lastly, above 
the third gallery are yet two lateral balconies for the gods. 
Two large and splendid candelabra (lustres) descend from the 
extremities of the ceiling, and distribute light equally around. 
The general decoration consists of garlands of fruits and 
flowers on a white ground. The ceiling, painted by MM. Se- 
chan, Dieterle, and Desplechin, is oval, and represents, first, a 
colonnade of double Corinthian columns, surmounted by arches, 
intersected with rich festoons and hangings. Ry an effort of 
perspective a second colonnade is seen behind the first, and 
considerably aids the illusion. Painting, Comedy, Music, and 
Tragedy occupy four thrones at four different points of the 
periphery of the principal colonnade. The centre of the ceil¬ 
ing represents the progress of Apollo on his chariot, followed 
by Aurora, the Hours, the Muses, Arts and Sciences, etc. The 
architects are MM. Dedreux el Sechan. 

Prices of Admission.— Avant-scenes du rez-de-chaussee, de la gale- 
rie, 6 fr. Avant-scenes des premieres, loges dc la galerie, 5 fr. Fauteuils 
d'orchestre, id. de galerie, baignoires, A fr. Premieres loges decouvertes, 
stalles d’orchestre, du premier balcon, de la premiere galerie, 3 fr. 
Premier amphitheatre, deuxieme balcon, deuxieme galerie, 2 fr. Pour- 
tour, l fr. 50 c. Parterre, l fr. 25 c. Troisieme balcon, deuxieme 
amphitheatre, 75 c. 

Theatre du Gymnase Dramatique, Boulevard Bonne Nouvelle, 




THEATRES. 


m 

was erected in 1820, and presents to the boulevard a front of 
six Ionicengaged columns, surmounted by as many Corinthian, 
with pedestals united by a balustrade. The vestibule is small, 
the house, which will contain 1280 spectators, is well suited 
both for hearing and seeing. The performances are limited 
to vaudevilles and comedies; most of the dramatic productions 
of Scribe were written for this theatre. The company is good. 

Prices of Admission. —Avant-scenes, loges d’eritresol, 6 fr. Premieres 
loges fermees, balcou, stalles d’orchestre, 5 fr. Baignoires, orchestre, 
premiere galerie, 4 fr. Premiere de cdte, avant-scenes des secondes, et 
deuxiemes loges fermees, 3 fr. Deuxiemes de cdte, et avant-scenes des 
troisiemes, 2 fr. 50 c. Troisiemes. 2 fr. Parterre, l fr. 75 c. Deuxieme 
galerie, l fr. 25 c.—Doors open at 6; performances begin at half-past 6. 

Theatre du Vaudeville, Place de la Bourse, formerly the 
Opera Comique, was opened in 1827. It presents a narrow 
front, ornamented with columns of the Ionic and Corinthian 
orders, pilasters, and niches, in which statues are placed. The 
interior is of a circular form, and holds 1200 persons. The de¬ 
corations of the house are not devoid of taste, and its size, 
which rendered it unfit for an opera, is suited to the present 
description of performances. The company is excellent. 

Prices of Admission.— Avant-scenes du rez-de-chaussee et de la ga¬ 
lerie, 6 fr. Avant-scenes des premieres, stalles d’orchestre, de balcon, 
loges de la galerie, et du rez-de-chaussee de face, 5 fr. Premieres loges, 
avant-scenes des deuxiemes, stalles de la galerie, et baignoires decdte, 
4 fr. Deuxiemes loges, 3 fr. Balcon, 2 fr. 50 c. Seconde galerie, l fr. 
Parterre, 2 fr.—Doors open at 6; performances begin at from half¬ 
past 6 to 7. 

Theatre des Varietes, Boulevard Montmartre.—This theatre, 
built by M. Cellerier, was opened in 1807. Its front, though 
small, is pure in style and decorated with two ranges of 
columns, Doric and Ionic, surmounted by a pediment. On the 
ground-floor is a vestibule, from which flights of stairs lead to 
the first tier of boxes and the saloon, over the vestibule. The 
house can accommodate 1240 persons. Vaudevilles and farces 
are performed here. The company is good. 

Prices of Admission.— Avant-scenes, 6 fr. Loges de la galerie, et 
balcon, 5 fr. Stalles d’orchestre, 5 fr. Orchestre, premiere galerie, loges 
de face du second rang, 4 fr. Loges de cdte du second rang, 2 fr. 50 c. 
Stalles du pourtour, 2 fr. 50 c. Parterre et deuxidme galerie, 2 fr. Pre¬ 
mier amphitheatre, i fr. Deuxieme, 50 c.—Doors open at 6; performances 
begin at half-past 6, or 7. 

Iheatre du Palais Royal occupies the site of the ancient 
Theatre Montpensier, at the north-west corner of the Palais 
Royal, and was opened in 1831. It is neatly decorated within, 
but is of very small dimensions; the number of places is only 




THEATRES. 465 

930. Vaudevilles and farces are performed here by an excel¬ 
lent company, and it is a most successful theatre. 

Prices of Admission.— Slalles et loges de balcon, avant-scenes, 5 fr 
Loges fermees de face, stalles d’orchestre, 4 fr. Premiere galerie’ 3 fr 
Avant-scenes des deuxieines, 3 fr. Premieres galeries decouvertes’ bai¬ 
gnoires et deuxieme balcon, 2 fr 50 c. Troisiemes loges, 2 fr. Parterre 
1 fr. 25 c.—Doors open at 6; performances begin at palf past 6, or 7 . 

Theatre de la Porte St. Martin, Boulevard St. Martin.—The 
opera-house having been burnt in 1781, this edifice, used for 
a time in its stead, was planned and built in 75 days. It is con¬ 
structed of wood and plaster, and, though large and convenient 
within, is externally devoid of merit, it has no vestibule, and 
the saloon is very small, but the salle holds 1803 persons. 
Dramas and vaudevilles are performed here, and occasionally 
pieces of a higher standard. 

Prices of Admission. —Avant-scenes des premieres, des secondes avec 
salon, et du rez-de-chaussee, premieres loges grillees de face, premieres 
decouvertes, 5 fr. Secondes loges grillees de face, stalles de balcon, et 
avant-scenes, 4 fr. Stalles de balcon de face, stalles d’orchestre, 3 fr. 
Baignoires, orchestre, premiere galerie du deuxieme rang, avant-scenes 
des troisiemes, 2 fr. 50 c. Secondes loges, 2 fr. Parterre" amphitheatre, 
l fr. 50 c. Deuxieme galerie, l fr. Deuxieme amphitheatre, 50 c. Begins 
at about 6. 

Theatre de l’Ambigu Comique, Boulevard de Bondy.—The 
Ambigu Comique on the Boulevard du Temple having been 
destroyed by fire, this house was erected by StoufT and Le- 
cointre, and opened in 1828. The front is ornamented at each 
story with columns supporting a cornice and entablature, and 
the upper story, instead of windows, contains niches with 
allegorical statues. The perislyle is surmounted by a terrace, 
and the ground-floor next the boulevard is skirted with shops. 
The theatre contains 1900 places. Melodramas and vaudevilles 
are performed here. 

Prices of Admission. —Avant-scenes du rez-de-chaussec et des pre¬ 
mieres, 5 fr. Premieres loges de face, premier rang, 4 fr. Stalles de 
balcon et de premiere galerie, 3 fr. 50 c. Baignoires grilldes, premieres 
loges decouvertes, et stalles d’orchestre, 3 fr. Avant-scenes des se¬ 
condes, 2 fr. 50 c. Orchestre, premiere galerie, 2 fr. 50 c. Deuxiemes 
loges ddcouvertes, deuxieme galerie, baignoires decouvertes, 2 fr. Bal¬ 
con, l fr. 50 c. Parterre, l fr. 25 c. Quatrieme amphitheatre, 50 c. 
Begins at about 6. 

Theatre de la Gaite, Boulevard du Temple.—This theatre, 
originally built in 1808, was burnt down in 1835, and re-open¬ 
ed a few months afterwards. The upper story of the front is 
Ionic, with an attic. The windows are arched. It holds 1800 
spectators. The performances are vaudevilles and melodramas. 

Prices of Admission.—A vant-scenes des premieres et du rez-de- 


466 


THEATRES. 


chaussee, 5 fr. Premidres loges de face et baignoires, 4 fr. Stalles de 
balcon, et amphitheatre, 3 fr. Deuxiohnes loges de face, deuxidme avant- 
sc6nes, stalles d’orchestre, premieres loges decouvertes, 2 fr. 50 c- 
Premiere galerie, 2 fr. Orchestre, l fr. 75 c. Pourtour, i fr. 50 c. Par¬ 
terre, l fr. Troisi^me galerie, 60 c. Quatrieme amphitheatre, 40 c. 
Begins at about 6. 

Cirque National, Champs filysees, carre de Marigny.—Eques¬ 
trian performances were first introduced at Paris by Messrs. Ast- 
ley, of London, in the time of the Directory, and their company 
was succeeded by that of Franconi, in the time of Napoleon. 
The present building devoted to these performances is a spa¬ 
cious polygonal building of sixteen sides, built of stone, with 
an elegant pedimented porch to the east, surmounted with a 
bronze figure of a horse. Panels with horses’ heads ornament 
the sides, lo the north is a rectangular building, in keepin" 
with the rest, containing stables, etc. A graceful iron railing 
encircles the whole. The interior presents the appearance of 
an immense Moorish hall, the roof being supported by IMit 
iron columns, and painted together with the panels in rich 
colours with gilding. The ceiling is tastefully arranged in com- 
partments representing equestrian figures, and from its centre, 
over the circus, hangs a chandelier with 130 gas jets. Round 
the circus are ranged sixteen circles of seals, holding 6,000 
persons. Opposite the entrance is the orchestra, with the door 
leading to the manege. The ventilation is admirably contrived. 
The admission is 1 fr. and 2 fr., and the performances, which 
are exclusively equestrian, commence at a quarter to 8. 

A second theatre of this description, called Cirque Olymviaue 
on the Boulevard du Temple, where grand military perform¬ 
ances were given, was closed in the spring of 1847, and rebuilt 
for a second Lyric theatre. Its success is more than doubtful. 

The Hippodrome, outside the Barriere de l’Etoile opposite 
the southern front of the Triumphal arch, is a large wooden 
circular enclosure built by M. Franconi for equestrian exhibi¬ 
tions 3 or 4 times a-week in summer. It was partiallv burnt 
down m 1846, but immediately reconstructed. It is 380 feel 
in diameter; the seals lor the public are all around and will 
contain about 10,000 spectators, under a canvas roof. The 
arena is uncovered. The decorations offer nothing particular 
beyond being in the Moorish style. The principal entrance is 
on the side facing the monument. Prices 1 and 2 fr. 

Theatre des Folies Dramatiques, Boulevard du Temnle 

erected in 1830.—It holds 1400 persons. Vaudevilles and farces 
are performed here. 

Prices of Admission.— Premieres loges de face, 2 fr. 25 c Avant- 
scene, du rez-de-chaussee et de l'enlresol, 2 fr. 75 c. Avant-scinesdes 


THEATRES. 467 

premieres, 2 ir. 50 c. Stalles, l fr. 75 c. Balcon, baignoires, l fr. 50 c. 
Orchestre l tr. Parterre, 75 c.—Doors open at 5; performances beuin 
at half past 5. 

Theatre des Delassements Comiques, Boulevard du Temple, 
opened in 1841—It contains 1100 places. Comic representa¬ 
tions, comprising farces, vaudevilles, and little dramas, are 
performed. 

Prices of Admission —Avant-scenes, 2 fr. 50 c. Premidres loges, 2 fr. 
Stalles d’amphithedtre, et d’orchestre, l fr. 50 c. Orchestre, l fr. 25 c. 
Parterre, premiere galerie, 75 c. 2“ e galerie, 50 c. 3‘>> 8 galerie, 30 c. 

Theatre Beaumarchais, Boulevard Beaumarchais, erected in 
1836.—It contains 1226 places. Farces, vaudevilles, and melo¬ 
dramas are performed. 

Prices of Admission. —Avant-scenes des premieres et rez-de-chaus- 
see, 2 tr. 50 c. Loges de face, 2 fr. Stalles, premiere galerie, l fr. 50 c. 
Orchestre I fr. Parterre, et seconde galerie, 60 c. Troisieme galerie, 
25 c. begins at half past. 

Theatre du Luxembourg, rue de Fleurus.—Comic pieces, pan¬ 
tomimes, melodramas, and vaudevilles. Admission 8 to 40 sous. 

Theatre St. Marcel, rue Pascal, in the Faubourg St. Mar- 
ceau.—For vaudevilles and melodramas of the intense sort, 
but not permanently open. Admission from 8 to 50 sous. 

Theatre de M. Comte, Passage Choiseul.—The actors, who 
are all young, perform vaudevilles, comedies, etc., with great 
ability. To these are occasionally added tricks with cards, etc., 
and ventriloquism. For children it is the most amusing of the 
Parisian theatres. M. Comte gives representations of legerde¬ 
main, etc., at private houses; the charge varies from 100 to 
300 fr. for the evening’s performance. 

Prices of Admission.— Avant-scenes, 5 fr. Loges de face et stalles, 
3 lr. Orchestre, 2 fr. Pourtour, premiere galerie, loges de cdte, 2 fr. 
Parterre, deuxieme galerie, et deuxiemes loges, 1 1'r. Begins at about 6. 

Polyorama National, Passage de l’Opera.— Soirees Panora- 
matiques, Fantasmagoriques. For children. Begins at about 6. 
Admittance 75 c. to 2 fr. 

Theatre des Funambules, Boulevard du Temple.—Rope-danc¬ 
ing and comic representations with a clown, etc. 

Admission from 5 to 30 sous.—Begins at about half past 5. 

Theatre Lazary, Boulevard du Temple.—A species of spec¬ 
tacle for the lower classes and children; for the latter there is 
a day performance. Admission 3 to 15 sous. 

Spectacles-Concerts, Boulevard Bonne Nouvelle, opened in 
1846, on the site of a market for vegetables. It is under ground, 
and fitted up with much taste. A species of mixed perform¬ 
ances, consisting of music, singing, ballets, and pantomimes, is 
given here. Admission 2 and l fr. Begins at half past 7. 


468 CONCERTS. 

Theatre Seraphim, 121, Palais Royal.—This is a kind of pup¬ 
pet-show, with mechanical figures, called Ombres Chinoises, 
etc., and is the delight of children and nursery-maids. 

Admission i 5 to 30 sous.—Performances at l, and at 7 . 

Soirees Mysterieuses, by Robert Houdin, 164, galerie Valois, 
alais-Royal. Legerdemain, tricks with cards, etc.; open only 
part of the year. Admission , 1 fr. 50 c. 3 and 4 fr. 

Theatres de la Banlieue.— These small theatres being with¬ 
out the barriers, and consequently at a distance from most of 
the places of amusement in Paris, are generally well attended 
ty the inhabitants ol the suburbs. The exterior appearance of 
some of them is neat. The pieces performed are melodrames 
vaudevilles, petty comedies, and even tragedies. The Theatre 
Montmartre, at Montmartre ; the Thedtre des Batignolles , near 
the Barriere de Clichy; the Thedtre de Belleville, by the Bar- 
riere de Belleville, and the Thedtre du Mont Parnasse, beyond 
the barrier of the same name, give representations daily; the 
Ihedrre de Grenelle, at Crenelle, two or three times a-week* 
the Thedtre du Ranelagh, beyond Passy, near the gate leading 
into the Bois de Boulogne, sometimes in summer. The admis¬ 
sion varies from 6 to 30 sous. 


CONCERTS. 

There were until 1846 concerts of instrumental music esta¬ 
blished in Paris. These undertakings, however, proved un¬ 
profitable, on account of the high salaries given to performers 
and they are now closed. In winter, however, the Salle Va¬ 
lentino, 359, rue St. Honore, is open three times a-week. 

Occasional and Morning Concerts are frequent in all seasons 
nit particularly in winter. They generally take place at the 
Conservatoire de Musique, No. 2 , rue Bergere, in the saloons 
of the several Theatres, or at some of the principal musical- 
ins trumen t-makers and professors of music, such as ,Erard, 13 
iue du Mml; Pleyel, 20 , rue Rochechouart; Herz, 48 rue de 

rnp !| 10 i?t SaX v!°’ 1Ue NeUVe St ‘ Geor § es ! Vamoredu-Cinti, 
rue de la 1 our d Auvergne. 


EXHIBITIONS, PUBLIC GARDENS, BALLS, ETC. 

^ MA 7 , Th,s well-known exhibition, first established in 
lance, and brought to perfection by MM. Daguerre and Bou¬ 
ton, was completely destroyed by fire in 1839.' A new one was 
opened m 1843 by M. Bouton, at No. 21 , rue dela Douanejnd 
is now transferred to the Boulevard Bonne Nouvelle. Open 

StteSat ha.^ice AdmiSSi °" ^ 3 * 1 fr ‘ « 

Panorama.— In the Champs filysees, near the river side, and 


BALLS. 469 

nearly opposite the Cirque National, is an exhibition of this 
description, similar to those in London. 

r±*r"- This exh . n,iti ° n in tlle Champs Elysees, not far 
rom the Panorama, is of recent date. The visitor enters an 
Hexagonal building, and, upon payment of one franc, is shown 
to a winding staircase which leads him to the centre of a elobe 
measuring 35 feet in diameter. The platform on which he 
glands is in the plane of the Equator, and the canvas surface 
ot the globe displays the outlines of all the continents and is- 
anils ot the earth in their geographical position, with the prin¬ 
cipal mountains, rivers, cities, etc., with the only difference 
in at whatin reality is convex, here is represented concave. 
ie contrivance is ingenious, and deserves encouragement. 
JEUX DE Paume (Tennis-courts).— There were several build- 
ings appropriated to these exercises; at present, the only one 
is in the Passage Sandrie, No. 8, rue Basse du Rempart. 

bALON de Figures, 54, Boulevard du Temple.—This is an ex¬ 
hibition of wax-work representations of celebrated characters, 
some of which are well executed. Admission 30 c. and 15 c. 

Jardin d’Hiver, 49, Avenue des Champs Elysees.—This esta¬ 
blishment, opened in 1840, consists in a sort of roofed garden 
with hothouses, where the public are admitted in winter, to 
enjoy the display of flowers and rare plants, commonly the 
attributes of another season. The admission is 1 fr.; plants and 
flower-pots are sold here, and the admittance deducted from the 
amount. It is at present in course of reconstruction. 

Gymnase Nautique, —next door to the preceding establish¬ 
ment. It is a swimming and bathing-place for all seasons, 
being provided with warm water from the Pompe de ChailloL 
Balls. Dancing being the favourite amusement with the 
Parisians both in winter and summer, there is no quarter of 
the capital in which ball-rooms suited to all classes are not to 
be found. The principal places during winter arc—Prado, 
near the Palais de Justice; Bal Montesquieu, rue Montesquieu- 
Salon de Mars, 75, rue du Bac. Besides these there is an innu¬ 
merable variety of ball-rooms of a lower description.—In sum¬ 
mer dancing takes place within, or in the immediate vicinity 
of, the Capital, in gardens especially laid out for the purpose. 
The Grande Chaumiere, and the Closerie des Lilas, on the Bou¬ 
levard Mont Parnasse, and the Jardin de Paris , at Monlrouge, 
outside the Barriere Mont Parnasse, are the favourite haunts 
of the inferior classes ol Parisians. Here also the students, and 
other mustachioed denizens of the Quarlier Latin, resort with 
their favourite fair, commonly known by the title of etudiantes, 
from their peculiar penchant for the youthful followers of 
Minerva. As a general observation, we may remark that the 

40 


£70 BALLS. 

character of the French population is nowhere seen to more 
advantage than at places of this description. Quarrelling or ill 
temper is nearly unknown, and even the lower class display a 
politeness of address, and a natural grace in the evolutions of 
the dance, almost amounting to elegance. Some places of 
resort of a similar kind there are, somewhat superior to those 
above mentioned : ol these the Jar din Mabille, in the A! lee 
des Veuves, Champs Elysees, is a favourable specimen. A large 
circular space, with a pavilion for the orchestra in the centre, 
is reserved for the dancers, and lighted by a profusion of gas¬ 
lights suspended from artificial palm trees, while small shady 
circular bowers placed around afford the dancers the means of 
repose, after the fatigues of the polka or the waltz, apart from 
the intrusive eye of idle curiosity; for we must remark that 
the lair visitants of these places appear completely ignorant 
of, or at least to have forgotten, the well-meant caution of the 
poet of the “ Seasons : 

“ Ah! now, ye fair, 

Be cautious of your hearts, nor in the bower 

Where woodbines flaunt and roses shed a couch, 

Whilst Evening draws her crimson curtains round, 

Trust your soft minutes with betraying man.” 

Leaving poetry, however, for the positive, we find a snug 
corner laid out with tables and chairs for refreshments; here 
the sober Parisian may enjoy his bottle of beer and his cigar, 
or the votary of Terpsichore treat his partner to a refreshing 
lemonade, and recruit for subsequent exercise in the mazy 
waltz. An immense covered saloon and rooms adjoining afford 
the visitor a secure asylum from the malicious influence of 
bad weather upon the sports of the evening.—The Chdteau 
Rouge, or Nouveau Tivoli, No. 2, rue Neuve Clignancourt, 
outside the Barriere Rochechouart, is likewise very much fre¬ 
quented, nothing having been neglected to win the good graces of 
the public, and render it the favourite among all rival establish¬ 
ments ot the kind. The visitor on entering finds a large space 
handsomely adorned with statues bearing innumerable lights 
where family groups are assembled enjoying the cool of the 
evening, and the enlivening strains emanating from an adjoin¬ 
ing pavilion. Small circular tents and bowers around invite 
the guest to taste of the good things of the buffet. Another 
large space adjoining is devoted to dancing, whence a flight 
Of steps descends into a third plot, containing a Jeu de Baques 
various contrivances of billiard-tables, swings, etc., besides a’ 
Tir au pistolet et d la carabine, for the more bellicose of the 
visitors. Fireworks are also among the attractions of this war¬ 
den, all parts of which communicate together by different walks 


GUINGUETTES. /fl\ 

over one of which a bridge is thrown, called the Pont desSounirs 
as unlike the “Bridge of Sighs” celebrated hv the pen of Byron 
as possible, though the name unluckily recalls the Venetian strain 
of the greatest of modern poets, and by contrast throws an air of 
ridiculous cockneyism (if such a word mav he applied to Pari- 
sian taste) over Ibis part of the grounds. The name has how¬ 
ever probably been adopted in allusion to the tender wailings 
of love-stricken swains, who may select this spot to give vent 
to their emotions. A spacious building contains rooms for 
refreshments, and is surmounted by a terrace, from which a 
general view may be taken of the lively scene below. The 
tasteful arrangement of the illumination, contrasting with the 
verdure of the trees and the gay animation of the crowds here 
assembled, produces a very striking effect. We may note that 
greenness is here to be specially guarded against, for, though a 
very desirable attribute of the trees, any display of that quality 
on I he part of a visitor may lead lo inconvenience, and hence 
we must warn the youthful English visitor against the loo 
seductive graces of the Lorette, who displays no mean tact in 
playing off her fascinations. In conclusion, we would observe 
that although Parisians of the middling class are in the habit 
of taking their wives and daughters to these places, thus givin- 
them a certain character for respectability, and though out¬ 
ward decorum may be tolerably well preserved, we cannot 
recommend them as fitting places for an English lady to visit 
unless well attended and incognito.—The Danelagh, at the 
entrance of the Bois de Boulogne, close to Passy, is an establish¬ 
ment of a similar class, and of a superior description in point 
of company. It not only comprises a ball-room, but a small 
theatre, with cafe, etc. Balls take place also at Enghien, Sceaux 
St. Cloud, and Montmorency; the first named is very well at¬ 
tended, owing to the orchestra being of a superior description • 
the others are not so select. The days and hours vary accord¬ 
ing to circumstances, but are easily learned from the bills 
posted in different parts of the town. The prices of admission 
are between 1 fr. 50 c. and 3 fr. for gentlemen; the beau sexe, 
have generally free entrance. 

Guinguettes.— Guinguettes are the houses or gardens of trai - 
tours, in the suburbs of Paris. The lower classes resort to them 
in great numbers, particularly on Sundays and Mondays. These 
establishments were originally very inferior and cheap, but 
some of them have since been patronised by the middling 
classes, and afford pretty good accommodation. Among the 
most celebrated are the Jar din de laGaitd, Barriere du Maine; 
the Salon Desnoyez, Barriere de la Courlille, or Belleville; and 
le Salon du Feutiternel, Boulevard de l’Hopital. When a guin- 


CARNIVAL AND MASKED BALLS. 

guette adds an orchestra and a ball-room to its other attrac¬ 
tions, it is called a bastringue. The houses which sell only 
wine and liquors are denominated guinches. The stranger may 
as well look in at some of these places, as it will enable him 
to torm a correct idea of the character and manners of the 
lower classes. 

The Carnival and Masked Balls. (I)-The Carnival takes place 
during the five or six weeks preceding Ash Wednesday, and is 
the season of masked and fancy balls in private society, and at 
the various places of public amusement; masks appear in 
the streets only on the Dimanche, the Lundi, and the Mardi 
Gras, and Mi-Careme. On these days, crowds of persons in 
fancy dresses, many of them masked, and exhibiting all sorts 
of antics appear in the streets, principally on the northern 
Boulevards, and immense crowds in carriages, on horseback 
or on foot, assemble to witness the gaieties of the scene. The 
Carnival was prohibited in 1790, and not resumed till Bonaparte 
was elected first consul. Its restoration caused great joy to the 
Parisians, and for some years nothing could exceed the beautv 
and richness of the costumes displayed on these annual festi¬ 
vals; but it has now lost many of its charms, and the masks 
are comparatively few. After parading the streets, the masks 
repmr to the various masked balls of every description which 
abound.—The Public Masked Balls take place on fixed days 
througlmut the Carnival, being given at almost all the theatres 
etc. The most amusing and select are at the Opera-house and 
the Opera-Comique, where they begin at midnight, and con- 

(0 The first ball to which the public were admitted, without distinc¬ 
tion, on payment of money, was given at the Opera, 2 d January nt6 
a license having been granted by the Regent Duke of Orleans the Year 
preceding The price of the ticket was five livres. In 1717 , the exclusive 
pri\ ilege of giving them was granted to the Opera; notwithstanding which 
balls were given at other theatres during the ten years for which JhepriW. 
lege was granted. It was at the Opera Comique of that day that the idea of 

« s r t s rxl H p h‘ V!r': i' h lhe s,a ^ f ° r purpose of danctag 

was first effected by Father Sebastian, a Carmelite friar and mecha¬ 
nical gemus at the suggestion of the Chevalier de Bouillon. In 1746 balls 
ad so much increased in public favour, that the Director of the Opera 
petitioned for a restriction of their number, and about that time several 
persons were proceeded against for giving balls with saleable tickets in 
private houses, some not of the best reputation. Towards the end of the 

plants’ at y the e nre M e S 77 ° r f nised at the °P era nearly on the same 
plan as at the present day, but with much less splendour- and it is 

“ 2flu^e S b witl?iThII POrary VV T Uer 38 3 matter of astonishment, that 
22 lustres, with 12 bougies each, 32 branches with 2 each io ciran- 

doles, with 5 each, with flambeaux, lampions, and pots-a-feu to light 
theatre 1 !' 03 ^ 05 ’ Wer ° ^ WUh 60 musicians ’ ha,f at each end of The 




HORSE-RACES. 473 

tinue till day-break. No stranger who visits Paris at this season 
of the year should omit a visit to one of the Bals masques at the 
former, for it is difficult to imagine a scene more curious and 
fantastic than that presented in the Salle of the Grand Opera 
at a Carnival Dali. On these nights the pit is hoarded over and 
joins the stage; the vast area of the whole theatre forming a 
hall-room of magnificent proportions, which, brilliantly lighted 
and crowded with thousands of gay masquers attired in every 
variety of colour and costume, forms a sight not easily forgotten. 
The orchestra is invariably first-rate, and is generally com¬ 
manded by the most celebrated bdton of the day, no less 
than the famous Musard being the musical director of late 
years. It is unnecessary to add, that the great amusement of 
the night is dancing, and the vivacity and animation displayed 
by the votaries of the light-footed goddess are really something 
marvellous, particularly after the hour of supper, when the 
strength of the Champagne adds something to the exhilaration 
of the hour. Boxes may he taken by parlies who prefer wit¬ 
nessing this scene as spectators to partaking in its gaieties, 
but ladies are only admitted in masks; gentlemen can go 
without, and in plain clothes. The charge is from 3 fr. to 10 fr.; 
refreshments and supper may he had.—The procession of the 
Bceuf Gras for ages past has been celebrated at Paris on the 
Dimanche and Mardi Gras, when the prize ox, preceded by 
music, and accompanied by a numerous train of butchers fan¬ 
tastically dressed, is led through the streets. The ox is covered 
with embroidery, and bis head adorned with laurel; formerly 
he carried on his back a child, called Roi des Bouchers, decorat¬ 
ed with a blue scarf, and holding in one hand a sceptre and in 
the other a sword. The child now follows the Bceuf Gras in a 
triumphal car, but without sceptre or sword. The old practice 
is, however, sometimes reverted to. (1) 

Reviews. —From the military character of the French nation, 
and the great number of troops forming the garrison of Paris, 
reviews frequently take place. The National Guards and regi¬ 
ments on duty at the Tuileries are paraded with military music 
in the court of the palace every morning at 10, and the troops 
of the garrison are often reviewed by the king or the princes. 
In the Champ de Mars field-days frequently take place. At the 
King's Fete, and on the anniversary of the Fetes of July, grand re¬ 
views sometimes form leading features of the public ceremonies. 

Horse-Races. —The sports of the turf have within a few years 
become much more general among the Parisian nobility and 
gentry than formerly, and great attention is now devoted to 

(l) The ox promenaded in the Carnival of 1847 weighed 925 kilos, or 
2040 pounds avoirdupois, exclusive of the head and feet. 



474 PUBLIC FETES. 

the improvement of the breed of horses. (1) Races take place 
annually in May and October, in the Champ de Mars, at Chan¬ 
tilly, and at Versailles. (2) The principal prizes at these three 
places are awarded by the French Jockey Club; also called the 
Societe d’Encouragement pour VAmelioration de la Race des 
Chevaux en France. This club, situated at the corner of the 
Boulevard and the rue Grange Bateliere, consists of about 300 
members, and was first founded at Mr. Bryon’s, Tivoli Gardens, 
in 1833. The May races in the Champ de Mars take place on 
four separate days; the prizes in all amount to about 30,000 fr., 
besides considerable sweepstakes and matches, subscribed for 
by the French Jockey Club. In October, races occur on three 
days, and the prizes are given by the arrondissemcnt, the King, 
and the Jockey Club. Their aggregate amount is more than 
35,000 francs, with considerable sweepstakes, besides several 
private matches that vary from year to year. In the Bois de 
Boulogne private matches frequently take place, and steeple¬ 
chases are run from time to time at a place called Croix de 
Berny, live miles from Paris. The time and amount of the 
prizes are regularly announced beforehand in the journals, and 
particularly in Galignani’s Messenger. The Jockey Club keeps 
a stud-book, and publishes a racing calendar, as in England. (3) 
Public Fetes.— The public fetes are held in the Champs 
Elysees and at the Barriere du Trone, on the anniversaries of 
the King’s f6te-day, May 1, and the Revolution of 1830, July 29. 
In the different areas of the Champs Elysees are rope-dancers, 
jugglers, buffoons, orchestras for dancers, mdts de cocagne, 
and stages for dramatic representations. In the evening the 
avenues and walks are illuminated, as well as the garden of 
the Tuileries, and fireworks lake place generally upon a very 
magnificent scale. This species of exhibition being a greart fa¬ 
vourite with the French populace, the art of preparing them 
has been carried to a high degree of perfection. These fetes 
draw numbers of strangers to the capital, not only from the 


(l) The sums granted in France for encouragements for the ameliora¬ 
tion ot the breed of horses since 1822 are as follow — 


1822.... 


1828.... 

. 81,189 

1835.... 

. 105,967 

1841.... 

. 137,250 

1823.... 

. 83.374 

1829..,. 

. 81.805 

1836.... 

. 111,208 

1842.... 

. 170000 

182 i.... 

.. 84,805 

1831... 

. 80,354 

1837.... 

. 124,485 

1843.... 

. 210,000 

1825-... 

. 84,156 

1832.... 

. 79,227 

1838.... 

. 101,675 

1814.... 

. 271.000 

1826.... 

. 81,110 

1833.... 

. 80,000 

1839.... 

. 133,448 

1845.... 

. 271,000 

1827.... 

. 70,100 

1834.... 

. 90.251 

1840.... 

. 149,661 

1846.... 

. 272,000 

(2) T 

here are a 

so races once a-y 

ear at Rouen. 




(3) The club accords prizes for newly established races in (he depart¬ 
ments, to encourage the sports of the French turf, and (he amelioration 
of the breed of thorough-bred stock in France. The French Racing 
Calendar, from 1776 to 1 846 edited by Mr. Bryon, forms 11 vols. It is to 
be had at Messrs. Galignani and Co.’s Library, 18 , rue Vivienne. 





























PROMENADES. 


475 

provinces, but from England, and other neighbouring countries, 
and certainly no foreigner who would see Paris and its vast 
population in perfection, can ever witness either under a more 
agreeable aspect than on the occasion of a general ftfte. On 
these days Paris may literally be said to “don her best” and 
the immense multitudes which crowd every place devoted to 
the amusement of the public are not more remarkable for their 
numbers, than for the gaiety and good humour they almost 
invariably display. Provisions and wine were formerly dis¬ 
tributed to the populace, but the confusion and drunkenness 
that ensued induced the authorities to decide that the distribu¬ 
tion should in future he made privately, to poor families, by 
the mayors of the different arrondissements, aided by the mem¬ 
bers of the Bureau de Bienfaisance. 

Joutes sur l’Eau. —The watermen of the Seine formerly 
amused the people with rowing and sailing matches. To these 
were added mythological representations, with naval combats, 
etc. Aquatic sports still form part of the f6les of July, and are 
given at most of the fetes of villages on the hanks of the Seine. 

Mats de Cocagne. —This exercise, first introduced in Paris 
in 1825, is a favourite amusement at the public ffites of the 
capital, as well as at fairs in provincial towns and villages. It 
consists of a mast, 60 feet in height, smeared with soap and 
grease, at the top of which are suspended prizes, such as 
watches, silver forks and spoons, silver cups, etc., which fall 
to the lot of those who succeed in reaching them. (1) 

Skaiting. —The places most frequented for this exercise are 
the basin de la Villette, the canal St. Marlin, the basins in the 
Tuileries, the gare de la Bastille, and the gare de la Rapee. 

PROMENADES. 

Most of the public promenades of Paris have been already 
described in the preceding part of this hook, hut they are here 
placed under one head for the convenience of the reader. 

The Champs ELYSEEsform the largest place of public exercise 
within Paris for persons in carriages, on horseback, or on fool, 
and in many respects, during the summer season, the most 
agreeable. (See p. 188 .) 

The Garden or the Tuileries forms a most delightful walk 
for the fashionable world. (See p. 152.) 

The Garden of the Palais Royal is generally frequented by 
the inhabitants of the centre of the town. (See p. 175.) 

The Garden of the Luxembourg, which has recently under- 

(l'l It has been remarked that from the great progress in gymnastics 
made in France these prizes are much sooner reached than formerly. 


£76 BOIS DE BOULOGNE. 

gone great embellishments, is the principal promenade on the 
southern bank of the Seine. (See p. 390.) 

The Garden of Plants, with its botanical collections hot¬ 
houses, etc. (See p. 442.) 

The Boulevards, interior and exterior, are resorted to by 
Parisians of all ranks, and, especially since those on the 
northern side have been lighted with gas and flagged, form by 
day or night amusing and healthy walks. The Boulevard des 
Ilaliens iii particular, and those adjacent, present on a fine 
autumnal evening a scene of the utmost gaiety; the effect is 
indescribable; a confusion of colours and images bursts upon 
the eye, and the whiteness of the houses, broken at intervals 
by dark masses of verdure, form a beautiful contrast to the 
blaze ot light issuing from the splendid “cafes” and club¬ 
houses, while the glaring gas-lights without illuminate the 
groups seated round the little marble tables: rattling equipages 
rush by, and all the world seem entranced at this hour in the 
pleasure of perfect idleness. (See p. 119 , 219.) 

The Park de Monceaux, though the property of the king, may 
be visited by persons furnished with tickets (see p. 199) and 
forms a most delightful and retired promenade. 

Bois de Boulogne.— This wood, about two miles from Paris 
bears the name of a village to which it is contiguous. Before 
tbe Revolution its trees were stunted or dying from a ,r e The 
revolutionary axe in part cleared it; whatever was then spared 
was felled in 1814, to make palisades for the barriers of Paris 
at the approach of the allied armies. In July, 1815, after the 
capitulation the British troops, under the command of the 
u r e of Wellington, encamped here. Subsequent planting, and 
the growth from old stocks, have now made it a thick and 
beautiful wood. The Bois de Boulogne has been long known as 
a place fur duelling and suicides. It is the Hyde Park of Paris 
where the most splendid equipages and finest horses of the ca¬ 
pital are displayed. It is also distinguished for the annual pro¬ 
cession or promenade de Longchamp. In one of the principal 
alleys, near the gate on theNeuilly road, are a good cafe and a 
restaurant. The fortifications which pass along the eastern side of 
this wood have caused the destruction of one of its finest avenues 
A little further on, towards Neuilly, is Bagatelle, a beautiful 
villa, erected by Belanger, in consequence of a wager between 
the Count d Artois and the Prince of Wales that the house 
could not be built in 60 days; it was finished in 58. It is now 
the property of the Marquis of Hertford, who purchased it for 
313,000 fr., and is fitted up in a style of great elegance andluxurv 
Near Passy, in the Bois de Boulogne, is the Chdteaude la 
Muette, formerly crown property, but now belonging to M. 


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Mortefontaine .. 495 9 Saint-Denis... Rue St.-Martin, No. 256. 

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ENVIRONS OF PARIS, 

WITH THEIR DISTANCES FROM THE CAPITAL. HARRIERES AND CONVEYANCES LEADING TO THEM 




























ALFOUT. 477 

£rard, the celebrated piano-forte manufacturer. Immediately 
fronting this is Ranelagh , a well-known and agreeable place 
of public amusement. (See p. 471.) 

The Bois de Vincennes, east of Paris, is an agreeable place 
for exercise, more retired than the Bois de Boulogne, but, on 
account of its remoteness from the fashionable quarters of 
Paris, not so well known as a promenade. 

The Pre St. Gervais and the Bois de Romainville are, the 
one an open tract of land behind Belleville; the other a pictu¬ 
resque wood adjoining it. 

Both these spots and the Bois de Vincennes are much resorted 
to by the middling and lower classes of Parisians for pic-nic 
parties and Sunday excursions. 


ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 

[In the following brief notice of the Environs of the Capital mention 
is made only of places which contain some objects of interest, to make 
them worthy of a visit. For a list of conveyances, see annexed table.] 

ALFORT.—This village, two leagues from Paris, near the 
confluence of the Seine and the Marne, is celebrated for a 
royal veterinary school founded by Bourgelat, in 177G. This 
establishment possesses a library of domestic zoology, a cabinet 
of comparative anatomy, and another of pathology. There are 
also a botanical garden, hospitals for sick animals, a laboratory, 
a pharmacy, ground for the cultivation of grasses, a school of 
practical agriculture, a flock of sheep for experiment, a herd 
of different kinds of swine, and an amphitheatre, where lec¬ 
tures are delivered upon veterinary medicine and rural eco¬ 
nomy ; besides farriers’ shops, buildings for experiments, and a 
bee-house. Pupils from the north of France are admitted at 
Alfort upon the presentation of the Minister of Commerce and 
Agriculture, either as boarders, at 360 fr. a-year, or as gratuit¬ 
ous pupils. The Minister of War has 40 pupils in the school 
destined for veterinary service in the cavalry. They are received 
from the age of sixteen to twenty-five; and the duration o 
their studies is four years. They must all be able to read and 
write, and understand arithmetic, grammar, and smith’s work. 
The number of pupils that can be received is limited to 300. 
Animals that require treatment are admitted at a charge of 
50 sous a-day for a horse, and 12 sous for a dog. If their own¬ 
ers are poor, the only charge made is for their keep. In case 
of murrain among cattle, pupils or professors are sent to treat 
them. There are two similar institutions in France; one at 




ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 


478 

Lyons, for the central departments, and another at Toulouse, 
for the south. (1) 

ARCUEIL.—The name is derived from the arches of the 
aqueduct, constructed by the Romans. (See p. 124.) The country 
round is pleasing and picturesque; and it abounds with neat 
country-houses. The Paris and Sceaux railway has a station 
here. 

ARGENTEU1L.—A large village, 2 ‘/ 2 leagues north of Paris, 
on the Seine. There was a priory here, founded in 656, to 
which Eloisa retired in 1120, till the Paraclete was prepared 
, for her by Abelard. 

ARNOUVILLE.—Four leagues north of Paris. Louis XVIII. 
passed three days in the chateau of this place previous to his 
entry into Paris, on the 8th of July, 1815; and here it was that 
he drew up his Charter. 

ASN1ERES—is a neat little village with country-houses, and 
a station on the St. Germain railway. A branch-railway has 
been conceded to i\l. Andraud, to connect this place with Ar- 
genteuil. 

AUTEUIL—a charming village, about a league to the west 
of Paris, is pleasantly situated at the entrance of the Bois de 
Boulogne. It was the favourite retreat of Boileau, Moliere, Ra¬ 
cine, Lafontaine, La Chapelle, Franklin, Helvelius, Cabanis, 
Condorcet, Count Rumfort, and other eminent men. It contains 
a number of handsome villas. 

BAGNEUX—a village on the Paris and Sceaux railroad, 
with a church, ol the 12th century. 

BELLEVILLE—at the extremity of the faubourg du Temple, 
commands a line view of Paris. The side of the hill is covered 
with country-houses and a great number of guinguettes, where 
a multitude of Parisians, of the lower classes, assemble on 
Sundays and holidays. 

BELLEVUE—a village two leagues west of Paris, delightfully 
situated on the hill leading to Meudon from Sevres. From the 
terrace an enchanting and extensive view is obtained of Paris 
and the windings of the Seine. 

BERCY.—At J this extensive suburb of Paris a considerable 
part of the wine from Champagne and Burgundy, brandy, vi¬ 
negar, and oil, for the supply of the capital, is landed as it 

(l) The annual cost to Government of the three veterinary schools of 
Alfort, Lyons, and Toulouse, comprising altogether 600 students, is 
492,000 fr., being on the average 820 fr. for each student. The average 
number of horses kept in them is 1332. viz. 838 stallions, 127 mares, 212 
colts, 99 fillies, and 56 draft horses. The expenses amount to i,92i,900fr. 
In the sheep farms at Rarnbouillet, Perpignan, and Lahayevaux’ there 
are 1500 animals, the keep of which amounts to 116,000 fr. a-year. 


BICETRE. 479 

arrives from the interior. The warehouses are extensive, and 
used for bonding wine. 

BERNY.—A village at the junction of the Orleans, Versailles, 
and Choisy roads, 3 leagues south of Paris, is noted for its 
steeple-chases, numerously and fashionably attended. 

BICETRE.—This is a celebrated hospital, situated in the 
commune of Gentilly, half a league from the Barriere d’llalie, 
on the road to Fontainebleau. John, bishop of Winchester, 
built here, in 1204, a chateau, which was named Chdteau de 
Wincestre, from whence came Bichestre, Bicestre, Bicetre. The 
Duke de Berry gave it, in 1416, to the chapter of Notre Dame, 
of whom Louis XIII. bought it in 1632, and erected on its site 
an hospital for military invalids, which took the title of Com- 
manderie de St. Louis. Louis XIV. having built the Invalides, 
this house was annexed to the general hospital de la Salpe- 
triere. Bicetre is situated on lofty ground, and the air is better 
than in most hospitals of Paris. Great difficulty was experienced 
in obtaining water; but two wells having been sunk in 1775 
to 172 feet, water was found, and is now raised by machinery. 
Bicetre is used as an asylum for indigent old men, and male 
lunatics. It presents a square of 900 feet on each side, and 
contains three courts. A new division, constructed in 1822, at 
an expense of 400,000 fr., consists of two piles separated from 
each other by a small garden and ornamented with a peristyle, 
where the lunatics walk when the weather excludes them from 
the garden. The indigentand inlirm old men occupy the greater 
part of the building. They have no private rooms, but there 
are large rooms with workshops and dormitories, as also se¬ 
veral gardens and court-yards for exercise. Those who work 
receive trifling wages, part expended in procuring them belter 
food, and the rest given them when they leave. The daily al¬ 
lowance to the indigent is a portion of soup, a pound and a 
quarter of bread, four ounces of meat for dinner, vegetables 
or cheese at night, and a quarter of a pint of wine. The average 
daily cost of each individual is 90 c., and the total annual ex¬ 
pense about 900,000 fr. At the age of 70 they have a double 
portion of wine; and when 30 years in the house receive a 
double allowance of every thing. The class of persons called 
reposans are such servants of the hospital as are unable to 
work. When sick, the paupers are removed to the infirmary. 
There are 3,000 beds destined for the indigent. The most afflict¬ 
ing spectacle in the interior of this vast establishment is that 
of the lunatics, idiots, and epileptics, 800 in number, who have 
in general the same allowance as the paupers, excepting of 
bread, of which they receive a larger quantity. The insane, 
when dangerous, are confined in a strait-jacket and shut up. 



480 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 

Otherwise the most lenient treatment is observed towards 
them; and, to those who are capable of it, daily occupation is 
given on a model farm and bleaciiing-ground, called the Ferme 
Ste. Anne, at the Barriere de la Sanle, where there are also 
large sties for breeding hogs of superior kinds. This method of 
treating lunatics has been found to succeed beyond all expec¬ 
tation. Formerly a vast prison was situated within the walls of 
this hospital, in which ail persons condemned to the galleys or 
to death awaited their punishment. This has now been trans¬ 
ferred to the new prison, in the rue de la Roquette. Doctors 
of Bic6tre : for the old and infirm, Rochoux-Horteloup; for 
lunatics, Voisin, Leuret, Delasiauve, and Moreau. Surgeon, M. 
Maisonneuve. 

BOURG-LA-REINE, 2 leagues south of Paris, is traversed by 
the high road to Orleans. There is a house here, with a park, 
built by Henry IV. for Gabrielle d’Estrees. Here Louis XV. 
received the infanta of Spain, in 1722. The cattle-market, called 
Marche de Sceaux, for the butchers of Paris, is held every Mon¬ 
day. The Paris and Sceaux railroad has a station here. 

BUC—a village 4 l /> leagues south-west of Paris, is remark¬ 
able for the aqueduc erected by Louis XIV., which conveys 
water to Versailles ( half a league distant); it is supported by 
19 arches. Near this place is the source of the Bievre. 

CHANTILLY—a town 10 leagues north of Paris, was once 
celebrated as the residence of the illustrious house of Conde. 
The estate of Chantilly having lapsed to the crown in 1484, 
Charles VIII. gave it to Guillaume de Montmorency, his nephew, 
one of whose descendants having forfeited his head and his 
estates in 1G32, Louis XIII. presented Chantilly to the Princess 
de Conde, sister of the duke alluded to. It was finally presented 
to the Great Conde in 1661, by Louis XIV. Here the inheritors 
of that title continued to live in princely style till the Revolu¬ 
tion, when the principal building forming the palace was demo¬ 
lished, and the works of art, except such as had been removed 
and secreted, were destroyed, together with the garden, etc. 
On the Restoration, in 1814, the remaining buildings of the 
chateau were restored to the house of Conde, and many im¬ 
provements were made by its late possessor, who frequently 
resided here, and made it his principal hunting-seat. On his 
melancholy death in 1830, Chantilly descended to the Duke 
d’Aumale, fourth son of King Louis Philippe, who frequently 
visits it, as do also other members of the royal family, for the 
sake of sport. The chateau, which is situated in the midst of 
a lake, is handsome. It contains a fine gallery, in which are 
some curious paintings, chiefly battle pieces, a chapel, a Chi¬ 
nese cabinet, and a suite of vast and princely apartments. It 


CIIARENTON. 481 

is surrounded by vast grounds, laid out in the English and 
French style, with gardens, lawns, parterres, islands, grottos, 
and picturesque walks. The stables for which Chantilly is so 
famous are at some little distance from the Chateau, and form 
even a more magnificent pile of buildings than the royal resi¬ 
dence. They are capable of holding 180 horses, and connected 
with them are other buildings for the accommodation of 
hounds, carriages, etc. The interior and exterior are tastefully 
decorated with pieces of sculpture representing sporting sub¬ 
jects. Taken altogether, the stables at Chantilly are the 
finest in all Europe, and yet they do not complete the archi¬ 
tect’s design. Admission to the Chateau and grounds is accorded 
without difficulty when members of the royal family are not 
residing there. To the stables visitors are admitted at any time 
on application. The forest of Chantilly, which joins the park, 
contains 7G00 acres. In the midst of it is a circular area called 
the Table Ronde, from which 12 roads branch in different di¬ 
rections, and this is the ordinary rendezvous of sporting par¬ 
ties. Here also the festival of St. Hubert, the patron of sports¬ 
men, used to be celebrated. The lakes of Commelle, at about 
an hour’s walk across the forest, are well worth a visit. They 
receive their water from a little river called La Theve, and are 
surrounded with green hills covered with trees. They are 
bounded to the north by the village of Commelle, and to the 
south by the Chateau de la Loge, which is said to have been 
built by Blanche de Castille, mother of St. Louis. Races, under 
the patronage of II. R. H. the Due de Nemours, take place at 
Chantilly in May and October. At the May meetings the Derby 
is run for, and in October the St. Leger. The Government 
gives slakes amounting to several hundred pounds, and the 
King, the Due de Nemours, the Jockey Club, and the authorities 
of the Department also give prizes to be contended for. The 
races are fashionably and numerously attended, especially in 
May. Several racing studs are kept up at Chantilly, on account 
of the facilities for training. M. Fasquel has a fine stud at 
Courted, near Sends, at no great distance from the town, which 
is well worth a visit. It is under the superintendence of Joseph 
Ashman. The easiest way of arriving at Chantilly is to lake 
the Northern railway to St. Leu, where Chantilly omnibuses 
are always in waiting. 

CHARENTON—was celebrated in the times of Henry IV. and 
Louis XIII. and XIV. for the controversies carried on here 
with regard to the Protestants. It is now known for the great 
hospital for insane persons of both sexes, founded in 1644 by 
the minister Sebastien Deblanc, but afterwards formed into a 
boarding-house by the Freres de la Charite, for the cure of 

4i 


482 


ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 


lunacy. In 1797, it was converted by government into an asy¬ 
lum, under the name of Matson Royale de Charenton pour le 
traitement des alienes, for 400 lunatics whose cases were not 
hopeless; others are now received whose insanity is considered 
incurable. Ihe mode of treatment by giving employment 
and amusement to the patient, with the apparent absence of 
restraint, has been found very successful. The house is spacious 
and many important additions, at an expense of 3,320,000 fr/ 
have been made within a few years, particularly a large wins* 
built m 1888. The chambers and dormitories are spacious* 
well-lighted, airy, etc.; and the passages are warmed by iron 
pipes under the floor. The asylum is under the immediate 
authority of the Minister of the Interior, and the superinten¬ 
dence ot a special committee. Persons are received here ,r ra- 
1 uilously and as boarders. The gratuitous admission can only 
be obtained from the minister, who has a certain number of 
bourses at his disposal, to be applied for a limited lime in fa¬ 
vour ol persons having claims upon the government.—There 
aie thiee classes ol boarders: the first, those who pay i 300 fr 
and upwards; the second, 1000 fr.; and the third, 720 fr. in¬ 
cluding washing. Certificates, signed by medical men not more 
than a fortnight before admission, are to be presented on the 
part of lunatics previous to their being allowed to enter and 
certain formalities have to be complied with. Admission is 
granted at all limes to patients; but the public are onlv ad¬ 
mitted from noon to four o’clock, on Thursdays and Sundavs 
No one is allowed to enter the wards, but strangers are shown 
the courts and gardens. Lunatics, whether cured or not are 
restored to their families on permission of the authority which 
ordered their admission. Physician, Dr. Foville; Surgeon 

Di. de Guise. A stone bridge over the Marne connects^ha I 
renlon with Alfort. a “ 

CHAJTENAT a m ^ e anc * a half south of Sceaux, is celebrated 
as being the birth-place of Voltaire, in 1694. 

C H01SY-LE-R01 .—This pretty village, 2'/, leagues from Paris 
is so called from a chateau which formerly existed here and 
was a favourite residence of Louis XV. It is celebrated for its 
glass-houses, which are on a large scale, and contains a line 
establishment for painting on glass, etc. It is well worth a visit 
Choisy is likely to receive great additions to its population 
from the convenience afforded by the-Corbeil railroad ’ 
COLOMBES—a neat little village on the St. Germain railroad 
COMP1EGNE.—This town, with 6,000 inhabitants 17 lea -.,pc 
north-east of Paris, near the confluence of the Oise and p 
A isne, possesses a palace agreeably situated between the town 
and the forest. The exterior is elegant, but not magnificent 


ERMENONVILLE. 483 

The apartments are splendid, and superbly decorated and fur¬ 
nished. It was here that Napoleon received the archduchess 
Maria Louisa. The grand gallery, erected by the Emperor, is 
above 100 feet in lenglh, 40 in breadth, and 30 in height. The 
vaulted roof is supported on each side by twenty fluted marble 
columns, richly gilt. The ceiling is divided into 12 compart¬ 
ments, beautifully painted in allegorical figures, representing 
Napoleon’s principal victories, by Girodet. The slate bed¬ 
chamber is very magnificent. There are some fine paintings in 
the chapel and other apartments. The gardens in front of the 
palace are agreeably laid out, and an arbour of iron frame¬ 
work, 4,800 feet in length, and 14 feet broad, leads from the 
palace to the forest, forming a delightful walk. There is also a 
canal of the same length. The forest of Compiegne contains 
29,600 acres, and some of the finest oak limber in France is 
felled in it. Clovis had a seat at Compiegne, and the properly 
has never been alienated from the crown. It was at the siege 
ot Compiegne that the Maid of Orleans was made prisoner by 
the English in 1430. A camp for military evolutions is generally 
formed here every autumn, and races take place at the same 
lime. An interesting museum has been formed in the town of 
national antiquities of various epochs. 

COHBEIL—8 lea gues south of Paris, on the Seine; a small 
town, with a large trade in corn and flour. A branch of the Orleans 
railway terminates here; and hence passengers go, by cor¬ 
responding vehicles, to Fontainebleau, 7 leagues distant. 

ENGH1EN-LES-BAINS.—This village, 4 leagues north of 
Paris, is situated on the lake of St. Gratien, between Montmo¬ 
rency and the wood of St. Gratien. The sulphuric spring was 
discovered in 1766. The waters contain lime, carbon, magnesia, 
soda, and sulphuric hydrogen gas; their usual temperature is 
59 degrees of Fahrenheit, but they may be heated much higher 
without losing their properties : they are efficacious in diseases 
of the skin, intestinal chronic affections, scrofulous, nervous, 
and rheumatic disorders. The establishments formed here, on 
the border of the lake, for the accommodation of visitors, are 
on a large scale. Horses and asses are ready saddled for rides 
to the delightful villages in the neighbourhood. Balls lake 
place twice or three times a-week in summer, and attract the 
Parisians in very great numbers, particularly since the opening 
of the northern railroad, which has a station at Enghien. 

ERMENONVILLE—10 leagues north-east of Paris, is remark¬ 
able for its chateau, in a dependency of which Jean-Jacques 
Rousseau died. M. de Girardin, having learnt that the smallness 
of Rousseau’s income had compelled him to quit Paris, invited 
him to Ermenonville, where he arrived on the 20lh May, 1778, 

* 


m 


ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 


but died on the 2d July following, and was buried in an island 
in the great park, called lie des Peupliers, where a monument 
was erected to his memory. The park and grounds are laid out 
with great taste, and are well worthy of being seen. 

FONTAINEBLEAU.—This large and handsome town, but 
containing only 8500 inhabitants, is situated in the middle of 
the vast and beautiful forest of the same name, in the depart¬ 
ment of the Seine-et-Marne, and is the seat of its sub-prefec¬ 
ture, the chef-lieu being Melun, distant 4 leagues. The dis¬ 
tance of Fontainebleau is 14'/ 2 leagues S. E. of Paris, on the 
highroad to Lyons. The town contains little in itself to interest 
the stranger, but every deficiency in this respect is more than 
compensated for by its chateau and the splendid scenery in the 
neighbouring forest. The chateau is unquestionably one of the 
most beautiful palaces in France, and perhaps as an historical 
monument—restored as it has been to its original state by the 
judicious munificence of his Majesty Louis Philippe—is une¬ 
qualled throughout Europe. The edifice exhibits noble speci¬ 
mens of the different styles of architecture, from the time of 
Francis I. to the present day. 

History.— The forest of Fontainebleau was originally called 
the Foret deBierre, from the name of a Danish warrior, Bierra, 
surnamed Cote de Fer, who in 845 encamped his army here 
after having committed frightful ravages. Its present name 
seems to have been derived from a spring of water, where the 
town now exists, which was found so delicious by thirsty 
huntsmen as to obtain for it the appellation of Fontaine Belle 
Eau. The epoch of the foundation of a royal residence here 
is very uncertain. Some writers attribute it to King Robert in 
the 10th century, but it may be traced with certainty to the 
12th, several acts having been promulgated here by Louis VII. 
Philippe Auguste also resided at Fontainebleau. Philippe le 
Del was born and died at Fontainebleau, and his tomb is in the 
small church of the adjoining hamlet of Avon. Louis IX., who 
called r onlainebleau his cliers deserts, frequently hunted in the 
orest, founded an hospital, and erected the Chapelle de la 
bainte TnmtJ. It was not however till the 16lh century that 
Hie present chateau was commenced by FrancisL, and became 
the favourite residence of that monarch and his immediate 
successors. In it have taken place many of the most remark- 
able events of French history. Here, in 1539, Francis received 
and feted Charles V. of Germany on his visit to France. In 1602 
ie Mai eehal de Biron was arrested here, by order of HenrvlV 
on a charge of high treason, and afterwards beheaded in the 
Bastille. In11650 the Marquis de Monaldeschi, the secretary and 
favourite of Queen Christine, was assassinated here by her or- 


FONTAINEBLEAU. 485 

tiers In 1685 Louis XIV. signed tiie revocation of the Edict of 
Nantes, and in the following year the great Conde died here, 
as did also in 1765 the Dauphin, only son of Louis XV., father 
of Louis XVI., Louis XVIII., and Charles X. The court having 
been transferred hy Louis XIV. to Versailles, Fontainebleau 
became neglected, and at the Revolution it was stripped of all 
its valuable furniture and decorations, and fell into thorough 
decay. During the reign of Napoleon, however, it was par¬ 
tially restored, and became once more the theatre of events. 
In 1808, Charles I\. king of Spain, dethroned by Bonaparte, 
was detained a prisoner here during 24 days. In 1809 was 
pronounced here the declaration of divorce between the Em¬ 
peror and Josephine, and three years later Pope Pius VII. re¬ 
sided here in captivity for 18 months. Here Napoleon himself, 
in 1814, signed his abdication, and took leave of the imperial 
eagles. Nothing remarkable took place here during the Resto¬ 
ration, Louis XVIII. and his family having taken little interest 
m Fontainebleau. Rut in 1831, Louis Philippe commenced its 
complete restoration, and the works proceeded with great 
activity, and at considerable cost; all the first artists of France 
have been employed in decorating it; the most scrupulous at¬ 
tention has been paid to the restoration of everything to its 
original style : the furniture has been carefully selected, and 
the effect of the palace is the most splendid that can be con¬ 
ceived. The latest events that have taken place at Fontaine¬ 
bleau were the marriage of the late Duke of Orleans, the 
reception of Queen Maria Christina of Spain, and the attempt 
to assassinate his Majesty in the forest. As its distance from 
Paris forty miles—might deter many from visiting it, we 
refer them to the Preface , for the means of going and return¬ 
ing in the same day, as we earnestly advise them not to leave 
France without doing so. The visitor will have full time to 
visit the chateau and its admirably laid out park, and take re¬ 
freshments. The palace and gardens are open to visitors every 
day of the week. To visit the scenery of the forest will require 
at least one day more. For this purpose vehicles are always 
to be had in the town. (1) This however is the less needful, 
as the road from Paris passes through a portion of the 
forest, and gives the visitor at least some notion of its general 
appearance. 

The Palace.— The principal entrance to the chateau is by 
the vast Cour du Clieval Blanc, so called from an equestrian 
statue in plaster once placed here. There are four courts; viz. 
the Cour de la Fontaine, the fountain in which is surmounted 

(0 At Naigeon’s, saddler, 49, rue de France; and at Bernard’s, also 
a saddler, 59, rue de France. 


486 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 

by a fine stalue of Ulysses, by Petitot; the Cour Ovale, or 
Donjon, formerly the keep or prison of the chateau; the Cour 
des Princes, so called from its apartments having been assigned 
to the Prince de Conde and the Due de Bourbon; and that des 
Cuisines, or de Henry IV,, who added considerably to the 
works of his predecessors, and took much pleasure in adorn¬ 
ing the chateau. The Cour du Cheval Blanc was constructed 
alter the plans of the architect Serlio, and was once divided 
into four separate portions, for jousts and tournaments. The 
fine railing separating it from the Place de Furan was erected 
by Napoleon. The frontage of the chateau is composed of five 
pavilions, bearing the names of, 1, the Pavilion des Aumoniers, 
or de VHorloge; 2, the Pavilion des Amies; 3, the middle 
pavilion, called des Peintures, and ornamented with a bust of 
Francis I., lately placed there by order of Louis Philippe; 4, the 
Gros Pavilion; 5, the Pavilion des Poeles, so named from Ger¬ 
man stoves erected there in the time of Francis I. In the centre 
is a double (light of steps known as the Escalier en fer ci che¬ 
val (so called from being in the form of a horse-shoe,) con¬ 
structed by Lemercier in the time of Louis XIII., and a few 
feet in advance of the bottom of these steps is the spot on 
which the Emperor Napoleon bade adieu to his soldiers on the 
20th of April, 1814; and where, eleven months after, he passed 
in review the troops he was about to lead to Paris. Our li¬ 
mits will not allow us to enter into much detail as to the in¬ 
terior; it would take a large volume to describe all. We shall 
take the route usually shown by the guides, which is that by 
the Axle Neuve, or de Louis XV., in the court of the Cheval 
Blanc. The first range of rooms are eight in number, occupied 
in Napoleon’s time by his sister the Princess Borghese, but now 
redecorated most splendidly for the Duchess de Nemours. Im¬ 
mediately underneath is a corresponding apartment of seven 
rooms, once occupied by the mother of Napoleon. Close by is 
the Galerie des Fresques, so called from its paintings; the 
panels are decorated with 88 plates of Sevres porcelain, re¬ 
presenting the principal French monuments, and objects re¬ 
lating to the history of Fontainebleau. Hence a corridor leads 
to the Apparternents de la Duchesse d’Orleans, consisting of 
10 rooms, decorated with curious tapestry and pictures. In a 
small room will be seen a cabinet in porcelain, representing 
the arrival and reception of the Duchess, and the various ce¬ 
remonies of her marriage with the late Duke. The first Salon 
was occupied as an oratory by Pope Pius during his captivity; 
the adjoining one, the Chambre d’Anne d’Autriche, is of great 
richness. Charles V. of Germany slept in it in 1539, while on a 
visit to Francis I, Towards the Cour du Cheval Blanc , and 


FONTAINEBLEAU. 


487 

over the vaulted passage conducting to the Gourde la Fontaine, 
runs a gallery, formed by his present Majesty, ornamented in 
part with the fresco remains of the Gale rie de Diane, by Ambrose 
Dubois. The Salle du Billard is a splendid room. In the ante¬ 
chamber there is a fine ceiling. We have now arrived at the top 
of the Horse-shoe staircase; in the room serving as a vestibule, 
the visitor will remark six doors of beautifully-carved wood, 
three of them ancient and three modern $ in the latter the old 
style is carefully and successfully imitated. They severally 
lead, 1, into the Galerie des Fresques; 2, into the apartment of 
the Duchess of Orleans; 3, into the Galerie de Francois L; 
4, to the staircase of the chapel; 5, into the Chapelle de la 
Sainte Trinite; G, to the Horse-shoe staircase. The chapel was 
constructed by Francis I. on the site of a previous one, erected 
by St. Louis; a fragment of the original building still remains, 
an old arcade of the Doric order, at the bottom of the nave. 
The chapel is 130 feet long and 2G broad, not including the 
side chapels. The paintings on the pendentives of the vaulting 
were by Fremient. The altar is of the age of Louis XIII., and 
is very richly adorned; the four angels in bronze, also the sta¬ 
tues of St. Louis and Charlemagne, were by Germain Pilon. 
The Descent from the Cross was painted by Jean Dubois. The 
marriages of Louis XV. and of the late Duke of Orleans were 
celebrated in this chapel. The Galerie de Francois 1. will be 
next entered. This gallery has been adorned with much gild¬ 
ing, painting, and carving, by the Italians Rosso and Prima- 
ticcio; the allegorical subjects, in twelve compartments, are 
by the latter. At one end is a marble statue of Francis I., 
and at the other is his portrait by Jean de Boullongne. 
This gallery is now in process of restoration. The new stair¬ 
case at the left side of this gallery was added by the present 
King; its wood-work is imitated from that of the Horse-shoe 
staircase. The Apparternents du Roi are entered at the land¬ 
ing-place of the chapel by a staircase. They were those oc¬ 
cupied by Napoleon, who here signed his abdication, April 5, 
1814. The visitor will be shown a facsimile of that memorable 
document, with the little table on which it was written, and 
which has been lately covered with a glass case, small pieces 
having been chipped off by the curious His bedroom remains 
nearly as he left it. The Salon de Famille, formerly the Salle 
du Conseil, is the next : the ceiling is allegorically painted by 
Boucher. The projection towards the garden was added under 
Louis XVI. The visitor is now ushered into the Salle du Trone, 
formerly the Grande Chambre du Roi. Begun by Charles IX., 
this splendid room was adorned by Louis XII1. and Louis XIV. 
The throne and its draperies were added by Napoleon. r J he 


| Jnf ; I A 

488 v ‘ J ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 

y portrait of Louis XIII. is by J. B. Champagne. Adjoining is the 
Apparlement de la Reine, and Boudoir Turc, the window fasten¬ 
ings of which were made by Louis XVI., who, it is known, 
devoted much of his leisure to making locks. In the middle 
of the Ilooring, which is beautifully inlaid, is the cipher of the 
unfortunate Marie Antoinette. Next is the Chambre de la 
Reine, successively occupied by Marie de Medicis, Marie-The- 
rese, Marie-Antoinette, by the empress Marie-Louise, and now 
by Marie-Amelie, Queen of the French. The ceiling is tine, 
and the ornaments generally very rich. Next to it is the Salon 
de Musique, with a fine table of Sevres porcelain. Adjoining 
it is another saloon, of simple elegance. Eight steps lead to 
the Galerie de Diane, constructed by Henry IV.; it was par¬ 
tially restored by Napoleon, and completed by Louis XVHI. 
The ceilings were painted by Messrs. Blondel and Abel de Pu¬ 
jol. Four columns at the end divide it from a recess named 
the Salon de Diane, in which stands a fine porcelain vase. 
AVe now arrive at the Appartements de Reception, the first 
of which is the Antichambre de la Reine, ornamented with ta¬ 
pestries, the subjects taken from Don Quixote; next is the 
Salon des Tapisseries, so called from its hangings of old Flan¬ 
ders tapestry. A piece of modern fabric, from the Gobelins, 
after a well-known picture by Gros, at the Louvre, is seen 
over the mantel-piece. The ceiling of this room has recently 
been executed, and is of inlaid work. The Salon de Francois 1. 
succeeds, with its fine old chimney-piece, and its Gobelin ta¬ 
pestry, representing events in French history. The Salon 
Ovale, or Salle de Louis XIII. , looks upon the Cour Ovale. 
This apartment, lately restored, contains the portrait of 
Louis XIII., who was born in it; it is also adorned with land¬ 
scapes, etc., by Paul Brill, and paintings by Ambrose Dubois. 
The oldest part of the chateau is the Chambre de St. Louis, 
once inhabited by him, but much altered, indeed nearly re¬ 
constructed at different epochs, between the reign of Francis I. 
and the present. It contains a high relief of Henry IV. on 
horseback, the work of Jacquet, an artist contemporary with 
that great King, whose adventurous life is depicted around the 
chamber; the splendid ceiling was ordered by his present Ma¬ 
jesty. Passing through the ancient Salle du Buffet, we arrive 
at the Salle des Gardes, constructed in the reign of Louis XIII. 
It contains portraits, in panels, of the kings and queens of 
France, from Francis I. downwards, and a fine white marble 
mantel-piece, resting on two statues of Strength and Peace, by 
Francarville, and on it a bust of Henry IV. Adjoining is the 
Salle de Spectacle, a very plain building with a modern ceil¬ 
ing, representing Louis XV. crowned by the Arts, executed by 


FONTAINEBLEAU. 489 

order of King Louis Philippe. It was turned into a theatre by 
the former king to please his mistress, Mme. de Pompadour. 
Returning by the Salle des Gardes, and passing through a 
small pavilion, we arrive at the Escalier du Roil Its frescos, 
by Rosso, have been restored by Abel de Pujol. By the Esca¬ 
lier du ltoi we enter the App'artement de Madame de Mainte- 
non, assigned to that lady by Louis XIV. It consisted of live 
rooms, which have lately been arranged and furnished in the 
style in which they were occupied by that remarkable per¬ 
sonage; they are small and irregular. In one of them, the 
Grand Cabinet, Louis XIV. accepted from the Spanish Depu¬ 
ties, in 1700, the offer of the crown of Spain for his grandson, 
an event which led to the War of the Succession. It was in 
this room also that he signed the Revocation of the Edict of 
Nantes. Next comes the most imposing room of the whole cha¬ 
teau; it is the Galerie de Henri II., or Salle du Bal, constructed 
by that king to please his mistress, Diana of Poitiers. It has been 
recently fitted up with the most luxurious splendour; in it the 
marriage of the late lamented Duke of Orleans took place in 
1837. The highly ornamented chimney-piece was the work of 
the sculptor Rondelet. On leaving this gallery, the visitor 
arrives at the Ribliotheque, once the Chapelle Haute, a line 
specimen of the talent of Serlio, its architect, who planned it 
by order of Francis L In 1807 it became a library, and is 
shown only to visitors with special tickets. Its music-gallery 
was built by order of Henry II., who also had the ceiling 
painted, and his cypher interlaced with that of Diana of Poi¬ 
tiers may still be seen, surrounded by the decorations apper¬ 
taining to its original sacred destination. The Pavilion des 
Dauphins terminates the upper story. We now descend to the 
ground-floor. The first place of note is the Chapelle de St. Sa - 
turnin, originally built by Louis VII., and consecrated by Tho¬ 
mas a Becket, in 11G9, during his absence from England on 
account of his contest with Henry IL, a circumstance not a little 
interesting to an Englishman. It was restored and ornamented 
by Francis I., again by Louis XIII., and finally by Louis Phi¬ 
lippe, whose much-lamented and talented daughter, the late 
Princess Mary, designed the subjects for the stained glass. It 
is further remarkable as containing the altar at which Pope 
Pius VII. performed mass in the chateau during the eighteen 
months of his detention, 1812-14. The vast saloon next this 
chapel is the Galerie des Colonnes, or Salle d Manger du Roi, 
corresponding in dimensions with the Galerie de Henri II. 
above. It serves as the waiting-room on levee days; at oilier 
times as the private royal dining-room. Here the Duchess of 
Orleans was married in 1837, according to the rites of the 


490 


ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 


Protestant church, the ceremony mentioned above having 
been only the civil part of the contract. The doors are richly 
decorated. The Porte Doree serves to communicate with the 
Cour Ovale and the corridor De Maintenon : it was built by 
order of Francis I., and the latter was richly gilt and painted by 
Bosso and Primaticcio; the gilding and colours had almost 
faded away when renewed in 1835 by M. Picot. By this pas¬ 
sage Charles V. made his entry to the chAteau in 1539; and 
through it lied the Duchess d’Etampes, on the death of Fran¬ 
cis 1., to avoid the vengeful wrath of Diana of Poitiers. Passing 
through an antechamber lately adorned with old wood carvings 
taken from the Galerie de Henri IT., the visitor arrives at the 
Vestibule de St. Louis, in the oldest part of the chAteau, re¬ 
cently restored and decorated during the present reign. It 
contains statues of Louis VII., St. Louis, Philip Augustus, 
Philip le Bel, Francis II., and Henry IV., all of whom built or 
adorned portions of the chateau. The Petits Appartements 
consist of 12 rooms, in one of which may he seen a picture 
representing the tragical end of the unfortunate Monakleschi, 
and under the window this inscription : 

0 

C’est pr£s de cette fendtre que Monaldeschi fut tue, par ordre de 
Christine, reine de Suede, le io Novembre 1657. 

The Princess Clementine, now Duchess of Saxe-Coburg-Gotha, 
had an apartment here, of great beauty, formerly occupied by 
the Empress Maria Louisa, whose bed still remains. The em¬ 
peror himself also occupied an apartment here, and had a 
private staircase leading to a library above; this library has 
been preserved intact, as well as his study adjoining. The 
entire now forms the suite of his Majesty’s august sister, Ma¬ 
dame Adelaide, and is not shown to visitors without a special 
permission. Thence, by the vestibule of the Chapelle de la 
Sainte Trinite, the visitor, having finished the entire tour of 
the interior, returns to the Cour du Cheval Blanc. 

The Park and Gardens. —The Jardin Anglais, or, as it is 
more rightly termed, Pittoresque, extends along the front of 
the chateau, from the Aile Neuve, or de Louis XV., which forms 
one of the sides of the Cour du Cheval Blanc. From the va¬ 
rieties of surface presented by the ground, the sinuosities of 
the river, and other advantages, the hand of art, even while 
hiding itself, has contrived to make a wild little paradise of 
this beautiful spot. The Parterre, laid out by Le Notre, is in 
the old-fashioned style of gardening. Another garden, the Jar- 
din du Roi, or jardin particular, faces the royal apartments. 
L’htang, or great pond, is a fine piece of water, of triangular 
shape, about 1000 feet long on two of its sides, and 700 feet 


L£.«~vU<^' £. ^ y'Y-i^rJr ^~^%- 

FONTAINEBLEAU. J^Lo-VV 491 

on the other, and is entirely lined with sandstone, in which 
may be seen a vast number of enormous carp, many of them 
ot great age. In the middle is a handsome octagon pavilion, 
vulgarly called the Cabinet du Roi, originally constructed there 
by brands I. The park is large and beautiful; it is traversed 
in its whole extent by a magnificent canal, 4000 feel long and 
130 broad, which is fed by streams falling over artificial cas¬ 
cades. Here let the visitor enquire for the Treille du Roi, a 
magnificent trained vine, extending over a space of more than 
6000 feet, and bearing grapes of a superior quality, called 
chasselas. b onlainebleau is famed for its grapes : the superior 
sorts were first introduced here by Francis 1. The only build¬ 
ings in the park are, the house of the chief gardener, and, to 
the south, the large building now used as the king’s stables, 
but formerly the Heronieres, from the falcons kept there for 
flying at the heron, etc. 

The Forest of Fontainebleau is twelve leagues in circuit, 
and contains nearly 35,000 acres. Perhaps no forest presents 
such a variety of picturesque views; rocks, ravines, valleys, 
plains,—all are found here ; the woods abound in every variety 
of tree; the meadows, lawns, and cliffs, present every species 
of plant and flower. The finest views are to be had from the 
sites called platieres, to be met with at intervals; but the loca¬ 
lities best worth a visit are perhaps the following, in the order 
usually taken by the guides:—l, Mont Ussy, and the Nid de 
l Aigle; 2, the valley of La Solle, and Rocher des Deux Soeurs, 
hard by which is the curious Rock of St. Germain, where the 
stones are nearly all crystallized; 3, la Gorge et Vallon d’Apre- 
mont, containing some of the most picturesque scenery in the 
forest, some very fine old trees, and the Caverne des Brigands, 
dug out about a century ago by a robber named Thissier and 
his band, who were the terror of the environs; 4, the Hermi¬ 
tage of Franchard, about 4 miles west of Fontainebleau, buried 
midst rocks and sands, in a spot having the aspect of a desert, 
although once the site of a famous and flourishing monastery 
founded by Philippe Auguste. Here is the celebrated dripping 
rock, la Roche qui pleure, which the vulgar once thought \ ' 
yielded water of sovereign virtue in the cure of diseases. Pil¬ 
grimages were made to it, and no doubt the “ holy friars” gave 
no discouragement to the faith in the remedial powers of the 
“ tears ” of the “ Weeping Rock.” Its superstitious associations 
have long since vanished; the monastery was suppressed by 
Louis XlY. on account of the monks having been from time to 
time murdered by bands of robbers, and the place is now 
resorted to annually by the inhabitants of Fontainebleau and 
surrounding country, for the very secular purpose of holding a 


ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 


492 

fair on Whit-Tuesday. 5, la Gorge du Horn; leading to, G, le 
Mont Aigu, and returning by the Faisanderie to Fontainebleau. 
There are also the Rocher d’Avon, near the route de Fontaine¬ 
bleau, the Gorge aux Loups, the Long Rocher, overlooking the 
village of Montigny, and the Mare aux Evees, a picturesque spot 
on the Melun road, which are too scattered and remote to come 
within the above itinerary, but which will be found interesting 
to the visitor. The limits of this notice will not allow us to 
enter into further details of the attractions of the forest of 
Fontainebleau; we shall merely intimate our opinion that those 
who neglect visiting and exploring it, having the opportunity, 
will have much cause for regret. It abounds in slags, deer, etc., 
and has ever been a favourite rendezvous for hunting. In the 
spring and autumn it is much frequented by artists, as it 
abounds in beautiful landscape studies. No forest in France 
possesses finer trees, or a greater variety of indigenous plants 
and grasses. 

Fontainebleau contains two manufactories, one of earthen¬ 
ware and the other of porcelain; two hospitals, one for the sick 
and the other for foundlings and the aged or infirm; two fine 
barracks, an hotel de ville, a college, a theatre, and public 
baths. Nearly all the paving-stones used in the streets of Paris 
are brought from Fontainebleau. 

GRENELLE—is a rapidly-increasing suburb of Paris, on the 
left bank of the Seine, between that river, Issy, and Vaugirard. 
A church, theatre, and many good houses, have been built here 
within a few years. A gare for boats lias been formed below 
the village, and a suspension-bridge erected over the Seine. 

MAISONS LAFFITTE—4 leagues fromParis, agreeably situated 
on the Seine, with picturesque views. The chateau, a chef- 
d’oeuvre of Mansard, once belonged to the Duchesse de Monte¬ 
bello, and now to the heirs of the late M. Laffite. From the 
recent erection of a great number of villas, it is a charming 
summer retreat. 

MALMA1SON—3 1 /- 2 leagues west of Paris, near the Paris and 
St. Germain railroad, waj the favourite residence of Napoleon 
and the Empress Josephine. The latter died here on the 29th 
May 1814, and was buried in the small and ancient church of 
Rued (see p. 498). The park and extensive gardens in which 
Josephine took so much delight are nearly destroyed. The cha¬ 
teau still exists, but the Queen Dowager of Spain, to whom 
Malmaison now belongs, has strictly forbidden all visits. By 
her orders a chapel in the style of the Sainte Chapelle is to be 
erected here. A small pavilion to the left, near the porter’s 
lodge, almost surrounded by lime trees, was the private cabi- 


MEUDON. 493 

net of the Emperor, where he meditated and planned some of 
his greatest campaigns. 

MARLY—4 leagues west of Paris, was celebrated for its cha¬ 
teau and gardens, erected by Louis XIV., and destroyed at the 
Revolution. The aqueduct, 70 feet high, which stands on the 
hill, 300 feet above the Seine, was furnished with water by a 
cumbrous engine in wood, once considered a curiosity; it is 
now supplied by a steam-engine on the river; and the pipes 
are carried up the hill between a double row of trees. The 
view from the aqueduct is very fine. The pavilion on the brow 
of the hill, called Maisons, was built for the celebrated Ma¬ 
dame Dubarry. 

MEUDON—2 leagues south-west of Paris, is remarkable for 
the chateau and park purchased of the widow of the Marquis 
de Louvois, by Louis XIV. The chateau stands on an eminence, 
commanding an extensive prospect. There were formerly two 
chateaux here; one in advance of the present chateau on the 
great terrace. The approach is through a grand avenue, at the 
end of which is a magnificent terrace 450 yards in length, and 
180 in breadth, erected in 1600, by Henri de Guise. The palace 
consists of a central pedimented pile with two wings of the 
same height, flanked with pavilions. The keystones of the 
windows and portals bear sculptured masks, bouquets, etc. 
During the Revolution, this place was used for artillery expe¬ 
riments. In 1795, one of the chateaux being nearly destroyed 
by a fire, Bonaparte ordered it to be taken down, the gardens 
to be replanted, and the smaller one to be repaired. In 1814, 
Louis XVIII. annexed Meudon to the domains of the crown; it 
was afterwards used by the Due de Bordeaux, and in 1831 was 
furnished throughout for the late Duke of Orleans. The palace 
is entered by a Doric vestibule, adorned with statues, three of 
which are marble; the group of Love and Psyche is a chef- 
d’oeuvre. The Queen’s apartments are first visited; they ter¬ 
minate in a gallery containing several beautiful paintings of 
Teniers, and a copy in bronze of the Boy with the Butterfly, 
by Chodet. The King’s apartments are entered by the same 
gallery, and contain many superb paintings, among which the 
Neapolitan girls, by Schnetz, and the Death of Lesueur, by 
Vergnaud, will attract attention. The furniture is handsome; 
Lyons silk and Gobelins tapestry form the principal decoration. 
From the windows of the chateau, or indeed from any of the 
terraces, splendid views of Paris are to be enjoyed; the finest 
is that of the valley of the Seine, with Paris in the distance. 
To view the chateau application must be made by letter to 
M. Vlnlendant de la Lisle Civile , 9, Place Vendome. The gardens 
were laid out by Le Notre; they have lately been completely 

42 


ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 


494 

re-arranged, and the visitor should not quit Meudon without 
seeing them. The famous Rabelais was rector of this village. 
The wood of Meudon is extensive, and much frequented in the 
summer by the Parisians. Meudon is renowned for the stud 
formed here by the Duke de Guiche (now Duke de Grammonl), 
under the reign of Charles X. It is now the property of his 
Majesty, and is placed under the direction of the Count de 
Cainbis, to whom, at No. 0, rue Montaigne, application must 
be made for tickets to view the stud, which are granted with 
courtesy. The studhouses, paddocks, etc., lie at the upper end 
of the village, under the chateau. Horses bred here are sent 
to be trained at Chantilly. On returning by the grand avenue, 
the visitor will notice four immense stones (besides smaller 
ones) just discovered on the spot, bearing undoubted marks of 
Druidical origin. On one of them the outline of a horse’s head 
is roughly sculptured, and still discernible, it is intended to 
place these singular relics near the entrance to the chateau.— 
The Versailles railroad (left bank) passes just at the extremity 
of the avenue, a few steps to the right of which the stranger 
will see a triangular Gothic chapel, with spires at the angles, 
in commemoration of the dreadful railway accident which 
took place on that spot on May 8, 1842. The central spire bears 
a statue of Notre Dame des Flammes, after whom it is named, 
as an allusion to the unfortunate beings burnt in the carriages, 
from which escape was impossible. 

MONT CALVA1RE (also called Mont Valerien).—This hill, a 
conical isolated mount, two and a half leagues from Paris, is 
558 French feel above the Seine, it derives its name from a 
chapel consecrated there in 1083. From that time it was re¬ 
spected as a place of religious devotion: several hermits inha¬ 
bited its caverns, and pilgrimages used to be made to it. At 
the Revolution the custom ceased; but at the Restoration pil¬ 
grimages again came into vogue. At the revolution of 1830, 
the hill and its dependencies were finally withdrawn from the 
influence of the church, and the summit is now crowned by. 
one ot the strongest forts connected with the defences of Paris. 
I here is a cemetery on the eastern side, which will probably 
be altogether removed. Mine, de Genlis was buried in it. 

MONTMARTRE—derives its name from Mons Martis, because 
a temple of Mars existed on the hill in the lime of the Romans, 
Ibis village is remarkable for its numerous windmills and 
guinguettes, the latter of which are much frequented. The 
views from the hill are fine, and Paris is seen to great advan¬ 
tage. On the church tower is a telegraph which corresponds 
with Brest, Bordeaux, and Spain. The quarries of Montmartre 
are famous for their gypsum, or, as it is more commonly called, 


NEUILLY. 495 

plaster of Paris. In consequence of their insecure state, ihe 
working of them has ceased, and orders have been given for 
their consolidation. The geological structure of this hill is 
highly interesting. Near the summit of the hill, 300 feet above 
the river, is a newly-erected reservoir supplied from the Seine 
by a steam-engine at St. Ouen. 

MONTMORENCY—a small town, four and a half leagues north 
of Paris, delightfully situated on a hill, and commanding a fine 
view of the valley of Montmorency, one of the most picturesque 
spots in France. The house called the Hermitage was once 
inhabited by Jean Jacques Rousseau. It afterwards became 
the property of the composer Gretry, who died there in 1813; 
hut has since been much altered and spoiled. The church is a 
beautiful building of the 15lh century, and is situated on the 
slope of the hill. The forest of Montmorency is extensive and 
highly picturesque, and. a ride by the Hermitage to Ecouen, 
or by Andilly to the Rendez-vous de Chasse, is one of the 
greatest treats that a lover of fine scenery can enjoy. Horses 
and asses are to be found in the market-place, at moderate 
prices. The country round is celebrated for its cherries. 

MORTEFONTAINE—9 leagues north-east of Paris, derives its 
name from M. Le Pelletier de Mortefontaine, who built a cha¬ 
teau there in 1770. It subsequently became the property and 
favourite residence of Joseph Bonaparte, and afterwards be¬ 
longed to the Prince de Conde. Mortefontaine abounds with 
rocks, trees, and water, grouped in most picturesque style, and 
with its gardens, ornamented with fountains, bridges, pavilions, 
and other works of art, is well worthy of a visit. 

NANTERRE.—'This village, two and a half leagues west of 
Paris, was the birth-place of Ste. Genevieve, patron saint of 
Paris, in the 5th century. A pilgrimage in honour of that saint 
is held here every year. Nanterre contains an abattoir for hogs, 
and is celebrated for its sausages and cakes. The St. Germain 
railroad has a station here, and two of the 200 power fixed 
steam-engines for the atmospheric railway stand at the junction 
of this and the common railway. 

NEUILLY.—This village, delightfully situated at half a league 
from the Rarriere de l’Etoile, lias acquired celebrity on ac¬ 
count of its bridge, its elegant villas, and the interesting views 
which it commands. In 1606 there was merely a ferry at this 
place, but Henry IV., with his queen, having been precipitated 
into the water by their horses taking fright, a wooden bridge 
was constructed, which, however, did not last many years. 
The present one, built by Perronnel, is 750 feet long, and is 
composed of 5 arches, each 120 feet in breadth, arid 30 in 
height. The distinguishing feature of Neuilly is— 


ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 


496 

The Summer Palace of his Majesty Louis Philippe, situated 
in a beautiful and highly-cultivated park of upwards of 100 
acres. The building is laid out in the Italian style, consisting 
of only one story, and, though small in comparison with other 
royal chateaux, having been the favourite residence of the 
King when Duke of Orleans, presents in the apartments, grounds, 
and all its arrangements, that happy union of unostentatious 
magnificence with comfort and convenience, so rarely found 
in the habitations of princes. The disposition of the various 
apartments provides equally for the enjoyment of domestic 
privacy, or for the reception of crowds of guests. The grand 
saloon is a noble apartment, and the adjoining rooms appro¬ 
priated to the use of their Majesties are splendid in the ex¬ 
treme. The bed in the royal chamber exhibits a trail of the 
King’s character, and of the unforgotten vicissitudes of his early 
life, worth noticing—it is composed of hoards and a single 
liorse-hair mattress. The Queen’s dressing cabinet, which is 
contiguous, is one of the plainest, but at the same time the 
most interesting, rooms in the palace, its only ornaments being 
the various prizes gained by the princes, her children, from 
their first entrance into their colleges. These are all neatly 
framed, and, encircled with branches of laurel, form the sole 
decorations of the walls. The ilooring of the royal apartments 
is composed of the most beautiful wood, and the furniture, of 
the richest description, is devoid of everything like ostentatious 
display. A suite of apartments, near those of their Majesties, 
is appropriated to the King and Queen of the Belgians, who 
generally reside here during their frequent visits. These apart¬ 
ments contain a small collection of pictures of the modern 
French school. The library shelves are richly stored with the 
best authors—French, English, and Italian; among whom 
Shakspeare and Milton hold a distinguished place. It will also 
please the English admirer of his country’s parliamentary elo¬ 
quence, to observe that the speeches of the immortal Burke, 
with Ihose of Fox, Grattan, and Canning, are conspicuous 
among the volumes of this well-chosen collection. The grounds 
are laid out in the English style, and are in all respects worthy 
of the chateau. In the park is a monument marking the spot 
where a cannon-ball, fired from the Bois de Boulogne, fell 
at the feet of King Louis Philippe, then Duke of Orleans; and 
on the same spot the crown of France was offered to him a 
lew days subsequently by a deputation after the events of 
July 1830. For permission to see this palace, which is only 
granted when the Royal Family are not resident, application 
must be made by letter, post paid, to M. VAdministrate^ du 
Domaine prive du Roi, No. 216, rue St. Honore. 


RAINCY. 497 

PASSY—from its proximity to the capital and the Bois de 
Boulogne, and its elevated situation, which renders the air sa¬ 
lubrious and the views extensive, is much frequented; it pos¬ 
sesses several pleasant houses with large gardens. There is a 
spring here, strongly impregnated with iron, which rises in a 
garden, with tine walks and terraces, and is worth a visit. The 
celebrated Franklin resided at Passy in 1788, and a street and 
a barrier leading to it are called by his name. Here also died 
the famous Abbe Raynal, in 1796, after having resided in the 
village several years; in 1803, Piccini, the rival of Gluck; and 
in 1834 Bellini, a composer oftirst-rate promise. 

PECQ—a village 4 leagues from Paris, on the side of a hill, 
under the terrace of St. Germain. Since it became the station 
ot the railroad, it has extended to the other side of the Seine. 
At present however, on account of the opening of the atmo¬ 
spheric railway, leading to the summit of the St. Germain 
terrace, this station has been abandoned. 

POISSY—at one of the extremities of the forest of St. Ger¬ 
main, on the Seine, six leagues west of the capital, is a very 
ancient town, where the kings of France had a palace at a 
remote period. St. Louis, who was born at Poissy, inhabited 
the chateau, built the bridge, and established the cattle-market, 
slill held there for the supply of Paris, every Thursday. Once 
a-year on the Thursday but one before Shrove Tuesday a grand 
meeting or fair takes place for the show of cattle and sheep, at 
which medals of encouragement and other prizes are given. 
Philip le Hardi, son of St. Louis, erected at Poissy, in 1304, a 
handsome church in honour of his father, and in one of its 
chapels, the font in which St. Louis is said to have been 
baptized is preserved. Poissy is famous for the conferences 
held between the Catholic and Protestant doctors in 1561. In 
this town is a Maison Centrale de Detention, for persons con¬ 
demned to confinement for any term of years. 

PONT DE ST. MAUR—so called from a bridge over the Marne 
which existed here in the 12th century. There is a curious 
tunnel here cut through the rock for shortening the naviga¬ 
tion of the Marne; it is 300 feet wide, the same in height, and 
is worth visiting. This village is at the south-east extremity 
of the Bois de Vincennes. 

PRE ST. GERVA1S—owes its name to a meadow (prd), and 
a chapel dedicated to St. Gervais. This spot is almost entirely 
covered with small country-houses and guinguettes. Its situa¬ 
tion is favourable for pleasure excursions; the proximity of 
the wood of Romainville is also an inducement to the admirers 
of rural scenery. It is a mile north-east of Paris. 

RAINCY—4 leagues from Paris, near Livry, is a chateau 


ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 

which formerly belonged lo Ihe Sanguins of Livry, but was 
ceded in 1750 to the Duke of Orleans, who spared no expense 
to render it a princely residence. During the Revolution it was 
purchased by M. Ouvrard, the hanker, and afterwards fell into 
the hands of Napoleon; it returned to the Orleans family on the 
Restoration. The grounds are laid out in the English style, and 
the ch&teau has been much improved by Louis Philippe. The 
chateau de Montfermeil, of the time of Louis XIII., has lately 
been annexed to the estate of Rainey. 

RAMBOUILLET is a small town, on the road to Chartres, 
12 leagues south-west of Paris, with a royal chateau, situated 
in a park, abounding in wood and water. The - approach from 
the village is by a long avenue, planted with rows of lofty 
trees, opening on a lawn, in the centre of which is the chateau, 
a vast structure of brick, flanked with towers. Francis I. died 
jn this palace on 21st March 1547; Louis XIV. held his court in 
j.t for some years; with Louis XV. and Louis XVI. it was a 
lavourite residence; and Charles X. frequently visited it for 
hunting. Ihe grand saloon is immense, with a white marble 
floor, and two rows of Corinthian marble columns. The apart¬ 
ments, handsomely furnished, contain numerous pictures of 
value. In one of the turrets is shown the apartment in which 
Francis I. slept and held his levee; it is still in the same con¬ 
dition as in his lime. This palace has become celebrated for 
the abdication of Charles X., and for the advance of the Pari¬ 
sians on it in 1830. Hie stables are capable of containing 500 
horses. The extensive gardens were laid out by Le Notre. The 
parks contain 3,000 acres, surrounded by a forest of 30,000 acres. 

RUEIL.—This town is situated at the distance of 3 >/ 2 leagues 
nom Paris, and about half a mile from the St. Germain railroad. 
The only remarkable building is the church, consisting of a 
nave and two aisles, ending in an apside. The style hears 
evident marks of the 13th century, though its general aspect 
denotes the 16th. The principal objects of interest are the 
monuments to the Empress Josephine and Queen Ilorlense. 
The first, executed by Carlellier, occupying the extremity of 
the right-hand aisle, consists of an arch surmounted by a 
pediment, and supported by four Ionic columns resting on a 
basement; the Empress is represented kneeling in the act of 
prayer on a smaller basement placed on the first. The whole 
is executed in white marble, and bears the initials J. B., and 
the inscription : A Josephine, Eugene et Hortense 1825 
Opposite to this, in the left aisle, stands the monuinent'to 
Queen Hortense, erected by Prince Louis Bonaparte, hut lately 
a prisoner at Ham. It is composed of marbles of various colours, 
and consists of a basement ornamented with bas-reliefs, Urn 


SCEAUX. 499 

arms of the Queen, and the inscription: A la llcine Hortense 
le Prince Louis Bonaparte. The Queen herself is represented 
kneeling upon the basement, as if in sorrowful meditation 
Bartolini of Florence was the sculptor. 

ROMAINYTLLE—a village, one league'and a half from Paris 
affords one of the finest views in the environs of Paris. The 
Bois de Romainville is not very extensive, hut its proximity to 
the capital causes it to be much frequented. 

SCEAUX—is a large village, 2'A leagues south of Paris, with 
1800 inhabitants. Colbert erected here a magnificent chateau 
with a park laid out by Le Notre. In 1700 this estate was 
purchased by the Duke du Maine, son of Louis XIV. and Ma¬ 
dame de Monlespan, after whose deatli it passed to the Duke 
de Penthievre. At the Revolution the chateau and park were 
sold, and the former demolished, but the mayor of Sceaux and 
some other persons bought the menagerie, which they con¬ 
verted into a place of amusement. Every Sunday, from the 
1st of May to the 1st of November, there is a bal champdtre 
given in it, which is much frequented. The church of St. John 
the baptist is an old buttressed and pinnacled building, with¬ 
out pretensions to architectural beauty; it contains however 
some tolerable paintings, a line bas-relief in white marble on 
the panel of the altar in the left aisle, and a white marble 
group of the Baptism of Christ on the high altar, by Tuby. On 
a grass plot adjoining the church, the place where Florian, the 
elegant writer, lies buried, is marked by a granite pillar 
bearing his bust. The Mairie is an elegant little building op¬ 
posite to the church, and between the Menagerie and the rail¬ 
way-station, which, with the railway, is now the most in¬ 
teresting object of the place. This railway was expressly con¬ 
structed to try M. Arnoux’s system of locomotives and carriages; 
the former having small oblique wheels pressing against the 
rails, besides the usual vertical ones, effectually provide against 
the train starting olT the rails. The carriages are so constructed, 
that both the fore and hind wheels may turn freely under 
them; an iron pole connects every carriage with its neigh¬ 
bour, much like a hinge, allowing the train to lake every 
possible curvature with the greatest ease, and at the same 
time preventing concussion, so that buffers are dispensed with. 
The railway is constructed with a gauge of G feet (Mr. Brunei’s 
gauge being 7, and the narrowest admitted hitherto 3 */ 2 ) and 
the sharpest curves have been purposely introduced to give 
the system a fair trial. The train describes at each terminus a 
curve of 82 feel radius; the smallest radius on the line is 
98 feet, and the largest 279 feet, results hitherto deemed im¬ 
possible. The total length of the railway is G miles and a half, 


ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 


500 

which are performed in 25 minutes, and might he performed 
in 10. The stations are Fontenay, Bourg la Reine, Bagneux, and 
Arcueil and Caclian together. The railway has but one track, 
but another will shortly be laid down, and the whole con¬ 
tinued to Orsay. Visitors are strongly recommended to 
examine the advantages this system presents. The weekly 
cattle-market, called Marche de Sceaux, is held on the road 
at Bourg la Reine. 

SEVRES—two leagues west of Paris, is situated on the high 
road leading to Versailles, and is one of the most ancient vil¬ 
lages in the environs of the metropolis, being known to have 
existed in 560. It is celebrated for its magnificent royal manu¬ 
factory of porcelain. This establishment was formed in the 
Chateau de Vincennes, in 1738, but in 1750, the farmers-general, 
having purchased the manufactory, resolved to transfer it to 
Sevres, and to this effect erected a spacious edifice on the left 
side of the road. It was finished and the manufactory trans¬ 
ferred there in 1755. Louis XV., at the solicitation of Madame 
de Pompadour, bought it of the farmers-general in 1759, and 
since that period it has formed part of the domains of the 
crown. The manufactory of Sevres contains a museum, con¬ 
sisting of a complete collection of foreign china, and the ma¬ 
terials used in its fabrication; a collection of the china, earthen¬ 
ware, and pottery of France, and the earths of which they are 
composed; with a collection of models of all the ornamental 
vases, services, figures, statues, etc., that have been made in 
the manufactory since its first establishment. These models 
and specimens, which comprehend every kind of earthenware, 
from the coarsest pottery to the finest porcelain, forming a 
complete illustration of the history of the art, are arranged in 
cases in the following order:—1. Etruscan vases, antique pot¬ 
tery, Grecian, Roman, and Gallic. 2. Foreign earthenware, 
delf-ware, and stone-ware, with some delf-ware of the 15lh 
century, the first that was glazed, being the original specimens 
of Bernard Palissy, the inventor of common glazing. 3. French 
earthenware, delf-ware, and stone-ware, dating from 1740. 

4. An interesting representation of the fabrication of porcelain 
from the clay in its rude stale to the finishing. This closet also 
contains a specimen of every defect to which porcelain is liable. 

5. Porcelain of China, Japan, and India. 6. Porcelain of the 
different manufactories of France, with a progressive table of 
the qualities and prices to the present day. Porcelain of Pied¬ 
mont, Tuscany, Prussia, Brunswick, Venice, Lombardy, and 
other Italian towns. 8. Porcelain of England, the Netherlands, 
Spain, Portugal, Saxony, Austria, and Bavaria. 9. This case 
contains specimens relating to the colouring of porcelain, glass, 


ST. CLOUD. 501 

and earthenware, and of the defects to which it is liable. In 
the library attached to the establishment are numerous valuable 
works, with plates, consisting of travels, descriptions, etc., for 
the use of painters. The porcelain originally manufactured at 
Sevres, called porcelaine tendre, was a composition of glass 
and earths, susceptible of combining by fusion. It was aban¬ 
doned on account of its hurtful effects on the health of the 
workmen. That now manufactured, called porcelaine dure, is 
formed of kaolin, from Limoges, alkali, sand, saltpetre, and 
nitre, to which, when in a state of fusion, clay is added. It 
requires great heat to be hardened, and wood alone is used. 
The enamel is obtained froi^ feldspath. The biscuit de Sevres 
is this substance not enamelled. The workmanship of the royal 
manufactory of Sevres is much more highly finished than that 
of any other manufactory in France, notwithstanding the same 
substance is used; and the white porcelain is higher in price 
than that of any other manufactory, on account of the exquisite 
and difficult shapes of the articles. The painters are of the first 
merit, and the number of workmen exceeds 180. The Sevres 
manufactory, far from covering its expenses, is maintained 
from the Civil List. It is devoted in part to experiments in the 
art, for the benefit of other manufacturers, to whom every in¬ 
formation is liberally granted. The show-rooms, whicli con¬ 
tain a splendid assortment of rich and costly articles, with the 
prices annexed, are open daily to strangers, except on Sundays 
and festivals. The museum is seen on Tuesdays and Fridays, 
from l to 4, on presentation of a ticket obtained from M. Vln- 
tendant. de la Liste Civile, 9, Place Yendome. To see the ate¬ 
liers, a special permission must be obtained from the same, 
or from M. Brongniart, Directeur de la Manufacture Rotjale de 
Porcelaine, a Sevres. 

A splendid stone bridge of 9 arches connects Sevres with 
Billancourt, on the opposite bank of the Seine, which is here 
dividedinto two branches by the almost uninhabited lie Seguin. 

SAINT CLOUD.—This small town, situated on the Seine, 
2 leagues west of Paris, was so called from St. Clodoald, 
grandson of Clovis, who, having escaped when his brothers 
were murdered by their uncle Clolaire, concealed himself here 
in a wood, and lived as a hermit. Being canonized after his 
death, the former name of the place, Novigentum, was altered 
to its present appellation. It was burnt by the English in 1358, 
and again by the party of the Armagnacs in 1411. It was at 
St. Cloud that Henry III. was assassinated by Jacques Clement, 
in 1589; Henrietta, the consort of Charles I., of England, died 
here in 1670; and here the revolution of the 18th Brumaire 
(10th November, 1799), which placed Bonaparte at the head of 


502 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 

the government of France, was effected. In 1815 the capitula¬ 
tion of Paris was signed at this palace; and here also, in 1830, 
Charles X. was informed of Hie outbreak of 1 he last revolution. 
The town lies on the steep side of a hill, and from the railroad 
now made to it, and the steamers on the Seine ( See p. 7 ), has 
become a place of daily increasing resort. There are several 
fine villas erected on ils outskirts, and it is one of the healthiest 
places in the neighbourhood ot Paris. 

The Palace was originally built in 1572, by Jerome de 
Gondy, a rich financier. After his death, it was possessed con¬ 
secutively by four bishops of Paris, of the same family, and was 
renowned for the extent and beauty of its gardens. Louis XIV. 
purchased the chateau in 1658, and presented it to his brother, 
the Duke of Orleans, who spared no expense in improving and 
adorning it. The repairs and additions were executed under 
the direction of Lepaule, Girard, and Mansard. Le Notre was 
charged to lay out the park, which is considered to he his chef- 
d’oeuvre. Thismagnificentseat of the Dukes of Orleans continued 
in their family till 1782, when it was purchased by Louis XVI. 
for Marie Antoinette, who took great delight in St. Cloud, 
added several buildings, and often visited it, accompanied by 
the king. Napoleon always had a marked predilection for the 
chateau of St. Cloud, which had been the theatre of his first 
elevation. It was in the Salle de VOrangerie, that the events of 
the 18th Brumaire took place, and subsequently in this palace 
he transacted the affairs of the empire more frequently than at 
Paris. It consists of a court with three piles of buildings, and 
other wings irregularly connected with them. The principal 
front is 140 feet in length by 70 in height, and is adorned with 
several good pieces of sculpture. The columns that support 
the cornice of the central compartment are of the Corinthian 
order, and the general effect is graceful. Attached to the pa¬ 
lace are large barracks, stables, etc. 

Interior. The first suite of rooms consists of the grands ap- 
partements, to which the visitor arrives by the grand vestibule. 
Opposite the entrance is a fine marble statue of Mars in repose; 
to the left a staircase leads to various apartments, and to the 
right is a magnificent marble staircase with Ionic columns, 
leading to the upper vestibule, from which an equestrian sta¬ 
tue of the King, by Scheffer, may he seen over the architrave 
ot the entrance below. The ceiling of the staircase is pierced 
with a skylight, and the coves are richly gilt. The ceiliiw of 
the upper vestibule, painted by Claude Audran, represents 
History writing the Life of Philip of Orleans. The Salon de 
Mars is adorned with four Ionic pilasters, and four monolith 
columns; the walls are sculptured with trophies, and the ceil- 


ST. CLOUD. 503 

mg, by Mignard, represents, in various compartments, Olym¬ 
pus, Mars and Venus, the forges of Vulcan, Jealousy and Dis¬ 
cord. Over the chimney-piece is the equestrian portrait of 
Louis XIV,, by Vander Meulen. Next comes the Galerie d’Apol¬ 
lon, a vast saloon, where the Conseil des Anciens held their 
sitting on the 18th Brumaire. Here also Pius VII. baptised the 
nephew of Napoleon, eldest son of the King of Holland, in 1805, 
and the civil marriage of Napoleon with Marie Louise was ce¬ 
lebrated in 1810. The ceiling, in Mignard’s best style, repre¬ 
sents subjects of the mythology of Apollo; his birth, that of 
Diana; Apollo, as God of Light, as chief of the Muses, the sea¬ 
sons, etc. The profusion of gilding which is displayed here, 
and the rich lone of colour that prevails throughout the apart¬ 
ment, give a striking idea of the magnificence of the epoch 
when it was first erected. The walls are covered with a great 
number of excellent cabinet pictures, comprising numerous 
Canalellis, and paintings by Mignard, Van Gels, Van Spaen- 
donk, etc., with several by modern French artists. Here is 
also an extensive collection of cabinets in tortoiseshell and in 
buhl, with fine specimens of Sevres porcelain, and several 
small pieces of statuary. The Salon de Diane joins the above 
gallery ; the ceiling is richly painted by Mignard, with subjects 
relating to Diana. It contains two fine pictures, by Robert, of 
Bums at Nismes and Orange; also Henry IV., by Franque; 
Louis XIII., by Badin; a portrait of the Regent Duke of Or¬ 
leans, by Balthazar; and Louis Philippe (Egalite), by Boulanger. 
The Chapelle is entered by a door leading from this salon to 
the royal gallery, and is a plain building of ionic and Doric 
design. The coves of the ceiling are painted in grisaille by 
Sauvage, in 12 compartments. The altar-piece, a bas-relief in 
white marble, by Lesueur, represents the Presentation in the 
Temple. Three balconies open into it from the Galerie d’Or- 
leans. The visitor now returns to the Salon de Mars, and is 
introduced to the Salon de Venus, now the billiard-room. The 
billiard-table is sumptuously inlaid with arabesques in gold 
and mother-of-pearl; the ceiling, by Lemoine, represents Juno 
borrowing Venus’s girdle; the walls are hung with Gobelins 
tapestry, containing live beautiful copies from the series of 
paintings executed by Rubens for Marie de Medicis, that now 
adorn the Gallery of the Louvre. They severally represent: 
the Duke of Anjou declared King of Spain ( Philip V.); the Birth 
of Marie de Medicis; Henry IV. receiving her portrait; his Mar¬ 
riage with the same at Florence; her portrait as Beliona. Next 
is the Salon de Famille; the ceiling, by Antoine Coypel, re¬ 
presents the Triumph of Truth; on the walls is continued the 
series of tapestry, with the subjects : the marriage of Henry IV. 


SOI ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 

with Marie de Medicis at Lyons, two months after the pre¬ 
ceding one; the Birth of Louis XIII. at Fontainebleau; Marie 
de Medicis invested by Henry IV. with the government of the 
kingdom; and her reconciliation with her son. In an adjoining 
room is the Library, a lofty room with a skylight, and two 
tiers of galleries; it contains 12,000 volumes. Returning to the 
Salon de Famille, the visitor is led to the Salon de Mercure, or 
de Reception, formerly the council-chamber under Napoleon; 
the ceiling is by Allaux, and represents Mercury and Pandora; 
the walls are hung with tapestry like the former ones, con¬ 
taining the following subjects: the Triumph of Truth; the 
Flight of Marie de Medicis from Blois; her Journey to Pont- 
de-Ce; the Conclusion of Peace; the Destiny of Marie de Me¬ 
dicis. Valuable furniture adorns all these apartments. The 
Salon de I’Aurore, with a ceiling representing Aurora, by Loir, 
closes this suite, and that of the Petits Appartements of the 
King commences. These were formerly inhabited by Marie 
Antoinette, and afterwards by Josephine and Marie Louise. The 
antichambre is hung with several good paintings, among which 
is Valentine of Milan with Charles VI., by Triqueti. The Salon 
des Aides de camp contains the Arrest of Thomas More, by 
Mile. Collins; the Interior of a chapel in the Lglise des Feuil- 
lants of Paris, now destroyed, by Daguerre, etc. Here also are 
two fine vases of Sevres porcelain, and two tables with mo¬ 
saics of different rare marbles. Next is the Petit Salon, with 
two colossal vases of black marble, with bas-relief incrusta¬ 
tions of Sevres porcelain on their pedestals. The Salle da Con- 
seil, once the bedchamber of Marie Antoinette, and succes¬ 
sively that of Josephine and Marie Louise, contains some fine 
paintings, and two tables formed of slabs of beautiful petrified 
oak. A view of the park of the Chateau d’Eu, with Queen Vic¬ 
toria and Prince Albert walking, will be remarked. Next is 
the Cabinet de Toilette, with a hard sofa used occasionally by 
Louis Philippe as a bed. The Cabinet de Travail is simple; 
many a private personage has a more elegant one. An inge¬ 
niously contrived bath-room leads to the bedroom of the King 
and Queen; the King’s mattress is stuffed with horsehair, con¬ 
formably to his habits. The Queen’s Cabinet de Travail follows ; 
°n the console between the windows are a bust of Leopold 
King of Belgium, and two vases of Sevres porcelain, with the 
portraits of Louis Philippe and the late Duke of Orleans. In the 
Salon de Reception de la Reine is a fine painting of an African 
bivouac by Biard, and a rich porcelain table, a present from 
the Duchess of Kent to the Queen. A clock with J2 dials, 
maikmg the hours ol as many capitals of Europe, is curious. 
Many good paintings by Granet, Hersent, etc., adorn the walls 


ST. CLOUD. 505 

of the Petit Salon , the Salon d’Attente, and the Antechamber, 
receiving access from a simple Doric staircase. In the vesti¬ 
bule below is a line white marble statue of Minerva, by Vasse. 
The views from the windows of the Palace are delightful. The 
remaining apartments on the first story pertain to the Duchess 
of Orleans; the ground floor is occupied by Madame Adelaide, 
and the second story by the Duke and Duchess of Nemours. 

The Parc Reserve begins at the chateau, and extends to the 
summit of the hill. It contains flower-gardens and plantations 
of trees, and is ornamented with pieces of water, and statues, 
by the most celebrated artists of the age of Louis XIV. 

The Grand Parc extends from the Seine and the road from 
Sevres to St. Cloud, to the back of the hill, and is about four 
leagues in circumference. The entrance is near the bridge; a 
wide avenue of chestnut-trees runs parallel to the river. To 
the right are plantations of chestnuts and limes, in the midst of 
which is the grand cascade. Beyond, separated from the park 
by a fosse lined with masonry, and extending as far as Sevres, 
are some fine avenues of elms, some of them of extraordinary 
height. The entrance from Sevres is between two Doric pa¬ 
vilions at the foot of the bridge. The park is beautifully diver¬ 
sified, presenting varieties of wood and water, patches of level 
sward, and picturesque acclivities of the most agreeable de¬ 
scription. Several points on the higher parts of the grounds 
command glimpses of the surrounding scenery which no lover 
of pleasing landscape will pass without admiration. We advise 
the visitor who comes from Paris to St. Cloud by railway 
( rive droite ), to take his seat on the left side of the carriage, 
by which he will occasionally obtain lovely prospects of the 
valley of the Seine and the adjacent country. The cascade of 
St. Cloud is divided into la Haute Cascade and la Basse Cas¬ 
cade: at the summit of the first is a group representing the 
Seine and Marne, each reposing on the urn from which water 
issues. Upon an elevated flight of steps are placed urns and 
tablets, from which water falls into basins situated one under 
the other, the lastsupplyingby means of an aqueduct the lower 
cascade, which is separated from the upper by the Alle'e du 
Tillet. The Basse Cascade nearly resembles a horse-shoe in 
form, and is remarkable for the abundance and rapid descent 
of its waters, which fall in sheets from one basin to another 
into a canal 261 feet in length, by 93 in its greatest breadth, 
along which are 12 jets d’eau. The architecture of the cascade 
is ornamented with rock and shell-work, dolphins, and other 
appropriate emblems, and nothing can be more beautiful than 
its effect when in full play. The grand jet d'eau , known by 
the name of the Jet Gfant, is to the left of the cascades, in 

43 





506 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 

front of a fine alley; it rises with immense force to the height 
of 140 feel from the centre of a basin, and throws up 5000 gal¬ 
lons per minute. By its side is a small stone fountain of re¬ 
markable elegance. The waters generally play every second 
Sunday in summer, and present a very beautiful sight (1). One of 
the finest spots in the park is that on which is built the Lan¬ 
tern of Diogenes, erected by Napoleon, a copy ol the monu¬ 
ment of Lysicrates at Athens. It is a tall square tower, crowned 
with a cupola, supported by six Corinthian fluted columns. 
From the summit a splendid view is obtained of Paris and the 
surrounding country. The chateau is visible when the King 
does not inhabit it. For tickets application must be made to 
¥. rintendant Gcndral cle la Lisle Civile, No. 9, Place Vendome. 

The church of St. Cloud, dedicated to that saint, lies on an 
eminence opposite to the Mairie. The front, like the rest of 
the church, is in an unfinished state; but it contains two very 
fine paintings, one by Hesse, representing the Jews crowning 
Jesus with thorns; the subject of the other is St. Cloud cutting 
off his hair before devoting himself to the cloister, by Durupt. 

A stone bridge of fourteen arches connects St. Cloud with the 
opposite bank, and the town of Boulogne, a town of about 
7,000 inhabitants, which gives its name to the well-known 
wood. (See page 476.) One of the arches is entirely of cast iron 
ribs; the footpaths are sustained on one side by supplementary 
arches of cast iron, on the other by iron consoles.—St. Cloud, 
Sevres, Bellevue, and Meudon may be seen in one day, as they 
are all close together. Strangers in summer may enjoy a 
delightful trip by the steam-boat to St. Cloud, then returning 
in the evening by either of the railroads. 

The Fete ot St. Cloud begins every year on the 7th of Sep¬ 
tember, and lasts three weeks. It is the most celebrated in the 
vicinity of Paris, and attracts an immense multitude, particu¬ 
larly on Sunday. It is held in the park, and is well worth visiting. 

ST. C\R—a village in the great park of Versailles, six leagues 
south-west of Paris, is celebrated for the Maison de St. Cyr 
founded by Louis XIV. in 1686, at the solicitation of Mine, de 
Maintenon, for the education of 250 young noble ladies. On the 
death of the king, Mme. de Maintenon retired to it, and died 
there in 1719. The plans were furnished by J. H. Mansard. In 
1793, this institution was converted into a military hospital 
and in 1806 , Napoleon ordered the military school of Fontaine¬ 
bleau to be transferred to St. Cyr, where it has since remained 
under the title of Ecole spe'ciale militaire de St. Cyr The 
number of pupils is upwards of 300, who are admitted from 
the ages of 17 to 20, after a severe examination. The annual 

1 (‘^h^ay^^'arlyannouncedbeforehandinGa^wam’^/men^r. 


ST. DENIS* 507 

sum paid by each pupil is 1,000 fr., besides an allowance for 
wardrobe and equipments. This school forms officers for the 
infantry, cavalry, elal-major, and marines. The pupils on 
leaving are named sub-lieu tenants. The uniform is that of 
privates of infantry, and the discipline is very severe. 

ST. DENIS—a town G miles north of Paris, containing about 
0000 inhabitants, and on the Northern railway-line. Notwith¬ 
standing the short time (12 minutes) the trains take to perform 
the distance, this inode of conveyance is not perhaps the pre¬ 
ferable one, if the distance within Paris, and that of the St. 
Denis station from the Abbey be taken into calculation. The 
Jumelles Celeri feres, at 12, Faubourg St. Denis, will be found 
convenient and central, both lor Paris and St. Denis. The 
railway-train starts from Paris at a quarter past 9 a. m. and 
regularly every hour after </ 4 past 11 . The common road con¬ 
sists ot a beautiful avenue, planted with double rows of trees. 
History .—This town owes its celebrity to its ancient Bene¬ 
dictine Abbey, and to the circumstance of the kings of France 
having chosen the abbey-church for their place of burial. A 
chapel was founded here in honour of St. Denis about 250, in 
which Dagobert, son of Chilperic, was buried in 580, being the 
first prince known to have been interred within its walls^ Da¬ 
gobert 1. founded the abbey of St. Denis in 613; and Pepin, 
father of Charlemagne, commenced a new church, which was 
finished by his son, and consecrated in 775. Of this edifice 
nothing now remains except the foundations of the crypt. Suger, 
abbot of the monastery during the reign of Louis VII., demo¬ 
lished the church, and built a more majestic one in 1144, of 
which the porch and two towers remain; the rest of the build¬ 
ing as it now stands was reconstructed by St. Louis and his 
successor, between 1250 and 1281. The kings and princes of 
France were interred here up to the breaking out of the Devo¬ 
lution; but in pursuance of a decree of the Convention, in 1793, 
their remains were disinterred, and thrown into two large 
trenches, opposite the northern porch. In 1795, the lead was 
stripped from the roof, and a decree passed to rase the building 
to the ground, but, happily for the arts, a resolution so Gothic 
was not carried into effect. The church, neglected for several 
years, was falling into ruins, when Napoleon gave orders, in 
1806, that it should be repaired,and that the vaultof the Bour¬ 
bons should be restored as a place of sepulture for the princes 
of his own dynasty. The oriflamme, in ancient limes the sacred 
banner of France, was kept at this abbey; and no church in 
the kingdom was so rich in relics and sacred ornaments. All 
these were dispersed at the Revolution; and the monuments of 
the kings were removed to the Musee des Monuments Francais, 


ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 

at the Convent des Petits Augustins, now the ticole Royale des 
Beaux Arts, where they were fortunately preserved to be re¬ 
stored at a future period to their original places.— Exterior. _ 

Since 1806, and especially since 1830, the church has under¬ 
gone most extensive repairs and restorations, the total expense 
estimated at 18 millions of francs. It is one of the most beau¬ 
tiful specimens of the architecture of that epoch existing in 
France. The front consisted but lately of an elegantly but¬ 
tressed and turreted wall, flanked by two towers; the northern 
graced with gables and pinnacles, surmounted by a tall stone 
spire; the other flanked by turrets crowned with an open- 
worked parapet, hut, the former threatening to fall, it has been 
lately taken down, for the purpose of reconstructing a more 
solid one. The wall and the turrets in which the buttresses 
terminate are crowned with battlements. Three portals with 
retiring arches, adorned with the figures of saints, and sup¬ 
ported by clustered pillars, give access to the interior- the 
tympans of the arches contain singular ancient haut-reliefs 
relating to scriptural history; above the entrances are double 
and treble windows, partly walled up; and over the central one 
a circular rose window has been transformed into the dial- 
plate of a clock. Immediately under the battlements are four 
bas-reliefs of Saints on each side. A cast iron railing with 
Gothic piers encloses the front. Before entering the church 
the visitor will examine the gates of the central entrance! 
adorned with tracery and medallions in cast iron, contain- 
mg the following bas-reliefs Left side : 1st, the Kiss of Judas; 
2, Christ before Pilate; 3, Christ bearing his cross; 4 the 
Crucifixion. Right side: 5, the Entombment; 6, the Resur¬ 
rection; 7, Christ and the two disciples at Emmaus; 8, the Ascen¬ 
sion. — Interior. — The edifice is cruciform, and consists of a 
nave and two aisles, with lateral chapels. The transepts com¬ 
pletely separate the choir from the nave. Its total length is 390 
feet, breadth 100 feet, and height of vaulting 80 feet. Both the 
nave and choir, with the transepts, have a light triforium gal- 
ery and clerestory windows; the groinings spring from clus¬ 
tered capitals. The visitor will commence examining the 
nave, as the choirs can only be visited with a Suisse. Beein- 
ning from the left aisle, the first object of curiosity is the tomb 
°f Dagobert, of the time of St. Louis, a pinnacled and canopied 
mausoleum with ponderous haut-reliefs, quaintly exhibiting 
the dream of a pious monk, who thought he saw king Dagobert 
carried off by demons. The poor king, informed Sf the fact 
hastened to avert so dismal a fate by founding the abbey’ 
Next follow five chapels newly painted by Lecomte in the 
Byzantine style, the fashion of the day. The ogives of the first 


ST. DENIS. 509 

chapel contain : the Trinity, and Moses receiving the law. In 
the walls are several old bas-reliefs; opposite the entrance are 
two statues, Christ, and the Virgin kneeling; opposite the 
altar, statues of Christ, Moses, and Aaron, on pillars. The altar- 
piece is an illustration of the history of Christ, carved in oak 
in various compartments, and appears to be of the fifteenth 
century. In the second chapel paintings of Christ and Ste. Anne 
with the 4 evangelists occupy the ogives, and 9 old bas-reliefs 
are encased in the walls. In the 3d, is the statue of St. Je¬ 
rome over the altar, which is of white marble, and sculptured 
with three compartments in the upper panel, and one in the 
lower, in the style of the 14th century. In the 4th, haul-re¬ 
liefs in stone represent subjects of the Passion, and the altar of 
the 5th chapel is remarkable for its gorgeous decorations and 
gilt and painted haut-reliefs. On the upper panel are 11 me¬ 
dallions with delicate miniature paintings of sacred subjects. 
In the ogive opposite, is the Crucifixion of Christ painted in 
fresco, and below on an old stone slab encased in the wall is 
engraved the plan of the abbey. A plain sarcophagus of grey 
marble, resting on low columns, occupies the floor. Adjoining 
the left and northern transept are the magnificent monuments 
of Louis XII., and Anne of Brittany, and Henry II. and Catherine 
de Medicis. The former was executed in white marble by 
Paolo Poncio. The effigies of Louis XII. and his queen are re¬ 
presented on a rectangular cenotaph surrounded by 12 arches 
supported by beautiful composite pilasters adorned with ara¬ 
besques, beneath which are placed statues of the 12 apostles. 
The whole rests upon a pedestal enriched with bas-reliefs re¬ 
presenting wars of the French in Italy, the triumphant entry 
of Louis XII. into Genoa, the battle of Ravenna, and the battle 
of Agnadel. Above the cornice are kneeling statues in white 
marble of Louis and Anne. In the wall opposite to this is an 
ancient alto-rilievo, representing the death of the Virgin, 
with the Apostles. The monument of Henry II. was executed 
by Germain Pilon, after designs by Primaticcio. It is 14 feet 
in height by 10 in breadth, and 12 and a half in length. It is 
adorned with twelve composite columns of deep blue marble, 
and 12 pilasters of white marble. At the angles are four bronze 
figures representing the cardinal virtues. Henry II. and Ca¬ 
therine, in white marble, repose on a couch. The portrait of 
the latter is given with remarkable truth, and a light garment 
with which she is robed is exquisitely worked. Opposite, in 
the southern aisle, is the sumptuous tomb of Francis I. and 
Claude of France. This monument, after the designs of Phi¬ 
libert Delorme, was erected in 1550. Effigies of Francis and 
Claude repose upon a plinth of black marble placed on a cru~ 


ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 

ciform basement, ornamented with bas-reliefs representing the 
battles ot Marignan and Cerisolles; the figures were executed 
by Pierre Bontemps. Above rises a grand arch enriched with 
arabesques and bas-reliefs by Germain Pilon. Sixteen fluted 
ionic columns support the entablature, above which are placed 
nve statues of white marble in a kneeling posture, namely, 
rrands I.; Claude, his queen; the Dauphin and the Duke of 
Orleans, sons of Francis and Claude; and the Princess Char¬ 
lotte, their daughter. The vaulting and subordinate ornaments 
ol this splendid monument were executed by Ambroise Perret 
and Jacques Chantrel. The remainder of this aisle is occupied 
by the Chceur d’Hiver, formed of five arches of the aisle 
enclosed by wainscoting of Gothic design. Before entering it 
the visitor will remark the monument to the consort of Da- 
gobert, to the right of the door; forming nearly a counterpart 
to that of her king in the northern aisle. The Chceur d’Hiver 
is lit by live painted windows; the architecture is of the same 
style as the rest of the aisle, clustered columns with gilt ca¬ 
pitals supporting the ribs. The ceiling is painted with ultra- 
marine interspersed with stars, and the columns, walls etc 
are painted in the liveliest colours. Statues of the 12 apostles 
rest upon brackets against the columns. A railing separates 
the oaken seats from the rest of the chapel. Over the high 
altar is the martyrdom of St. Denis, painted byKrayer, a pupil 
Rubens. Ihe panel of the altar is adorned with painted 
and gilt haut-reliefs in compartments, representing scenes 
from the life of Jesus Christ, in the embrasure of th°e second 

Wl ‘" i'"; ! s a , ll allar “1 white marble with a statue of the Virgin 
and Child. The robes of the statue and the panels of the altar 
aie interspersed with agates, cornelians, and other precious 
stones. The bas-relief on the lower panel represents, without 
compartments, the Purification, the Adoration of the Magi the 
Massacre of the Innocents, and the Flight into Egypt; it is as 
usual painted in the Byzantine manner. Some old engravings 

windows 0 "# 0116 are enCa8ed in llie wal,s and between the 
windows. We now come to the transepts, separated bv a 

laihng from the nave and aisles, and by steps from the e^e- 
jaled choir. On one side of the northern door is a spiral co¬ 
lumn to the memory of Henry III., assassinated by Jacques 
Clement August 2, 1589. On the other side is a composite 
column Of white marble erected by Mary Stuart to II,c memory 
of rrancis ]!., who died in 1561. At its foot are statues of three 
genn. At the south door isabeautiful marble column in honour 
of he Cardnml de Bourbon, with a capital in alabaster - on the 
pedestal are a bas-relief representing Jesus Christ in’the se¬ 
pulchre, a masterpiece of Jean Goujon, and two other bas-re- 


ST. DENIS. 54 4 

liets, also in alabaster. On the opposite side of the door is a 
porphyry column with a Corinthian capital, to the memory of 
Henry iv. Over the architraves of the northern and southern 
entrances are statues of the four evangelists. Nearly in the 
centre of the transepts is a square railing enclosing the entrance 
to the royal vault through trapdoors. Flanking the steps that 
lead on either side to the choir, are marble statues of Tem¬ 
perance, \irlue, Prudence, and Justice. Against the extreme 
piers of the choir are two Gothic altars, of white marble and 
inlaid with precious stones. The altar-piece of the northern 
one is the Archangel Michael overcoming the Demon bv 
Dlondel. On the other is a bronze crucifix of the 13th centurv 
loaded with minute groups of figures and tracery. On ascend¬ 
ing the southern steps of the choir, we find in the first cha¬ 
pel, of sumptuous decoration, the tombs of Duguesclin, San- 
eerre, Duchastel, and Lariviere. Around the walls are paintings 
0f , Joll “ 1IL » Charles v *> Charles VI., Charles VII., and Isabel 
wile of Charles VI. On the altar are alti-rilievi of the Death 
of the Virgin Mary and the Baptism of Christ. We next enter 
the Sacristy, a long circularly vaulted chamber of Doric ar¬ 
chitecture, containing ten paintings illustrating events con¬ 
nected with the abbey. They are : 1, the Coronation of Marie 
de Medicis, by Monsiau; 2, Charles V. and . Francis I. visitin- 
the abbey, by Gros; 3, Death of Louis le Gros, by Monjaud b 
4, Philippe leHardi offering to the abbey the relics of St. Louis' 
by Guerin; 6, St. Louis receiving the oriflamme, by Barbier- 
6, St. Louis restoring the tombs, by Landon; 7, Charlemagne 
at the consecration of the Church, by Meynier;8, Funeral of 
Dagobert, by Gamier; 9, the Preaching of St. Denis in Gaul, by 
Monsiau; 10, the remains of the kings recovered in 1817,’ by 
Heim. Here also is preserved a bronze chair, said to be of 
Dagobert. After the sacristy follows a series of Chapels around 
the Choir, all richly decorated and filled with works of art 
which it would be too long to enumerate here. The most re¬ 
markable are : the Lady-chapel behind the apse of the Choir 
its altar enriched with mosaics and bas-reliefs, and around 
these on the panel scriptural subjects finely painled in com- 
paitments ; and the last chapel of the Choir, containing, under 
the windows, the original tombs and statues of Tristan of Da- 
mielle, and Margaret of Provence; on the lateral piers are bas- 
relief portraits of Jeanne d’Evreux and Marshal Turenne, and 
Hanking the altar are statues of St. Louis and Isabel of France; 
the altar-piece is the apotheosis of St. Louis, by Barbier; and’ 
on the panel of the altar are alti-rilievi, in compartments of 
Christ and the apostles. The vaulting of the choir is painted 
like that ot the Chwur d’lliver, and so are fhe columns pnd 




542 


ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 


walls of the chapels. On the panel of the high altar is a fine 
gilt bronze bas-relief representing the Nativity and the Ado¬ 
ration of the Shepherds; it was before this altar Napoleon was 
u nited to Marie Louise. The taste displayed in the decorations 
of this church is the same now observable in most of the 
churches already described; whether it be a laudable one or not 
is a question entirely dependent on private opinion. The 
undercroft is entered by doors in each transept near the choir 
The walls are ornamented with stone pilasters, the pavement 
is of white and black marble; the coffins, some of which are 
covered with black or violet-coloured velvet, with ornaments 
ot gold or silver, are placed upon iron bars. Many of the sta¬ 
tues and tombs are original; others are modern; imitating the 
manner of the different times. Brazen doors open here into 
the royal vault, which is not visible; it contains eight coffins 
in which are the remains of Louis XVI. and Marie Antoinette! 
with those of Louis XVIII., and other members of the elder 
branch of the royal family. On entering the undercroft bv 
the door on the left, a bas-relief of the third century and a 
piece of Roman mosaic, are seen. Then come monuments of 
e kings of the first and second races; the most remarkable 
of which are the marble sarcophagus in which Charlemagne 
was interred at Aix la Chapelle; a marble statue of that mo- 
narch; five statues in stone of Louis I., Charles II., Louis II., 
Charles III., and Charles IV.; and cenotaphs (some of them 
with statues) of Charles Martel; Pepin le Bref and queen Ber- 

S °Av [ / eV r n ’ L ° uiS and Garloman > sons of 
Louit* le begue; and Eudes, Count of Paris. Next come the mo- 

nuinents of the third dynasty, consisting of cenotaphs, with one 

or two statues in stone or marhle. The following is their order 

Hugues Capet; Robert le Pieux, and Constance d’Arles ins 

queen; Constance de Castille, queen of Louis VII • Henrv I • 

Loins VI, ; Philip Augustus ; LouisVIII. The ctapclof St lLuis 

is very remarkable; it contains figures and busts which are 

painted and gilt; the busts represent St. Louis and Marguerite 

his queen; the statues, the Count de Nevers and Robert de 

^ro r tu ° nt ’ f 1S tVV0 The olher more remarkable cenotaphs 
are those of queen Blanche; Philippe le Hardi; Charles, king of 

Sicily brother to St. Louis; Philippe le Bel; Louis X.; Blanche, 
daughter of St. Louis; Philippe le Long; Charles le Bel; Jeanne 
de Navarre, daughter of Louis le Hutin; Charles d’Alencon 
brother of Philippe VI.; Philippe VI.; Je^n le Bon Je nne e 
Bourgogne queen of Charles VI.; Charles V.; Marguerite 
daughter of Philippe le Long; Charles VI., and Isabeau de Ba- 
viere his queen; and Charles VII., their son. In one of the 
chapels .s a list, by dynasties, of the names of the princes 


ST. GERMAIN EN LAYE. 543 

whose tombs were destroyed at the revolution, engraved on 
black marble. It is called the Chapelle expiatoire. A small 
passage leads to a vault where the Prince of Conde, father of 
the one who was found dead in 1830, is deposited. In another 
chapel are the tombs of Henry II., and Catherine de Medicis • 
laterally the tomb of Henry IV., with his bust, and Diana of 
France kneeling, and that of Charles de Valois. A marble urn 
in front once contained the heart of Francis I. The sculpture 
of these cenotaphs, and of their recumbent statues is beautiful. 
Besides these there are numerous monuments of other princes! 
In the last recess is a statue of Marie Antoinette, in a kneelin ' 
posture, considered a perfect likeness of that unfortunate prin¬ 
cess; also two colossal monolith allegorical statues, formerly 
intended for the expiatory monument to the Duke de Berry. 

( See p. 222.) They represent France and the City of Paris ; op¬ 
posite are two more intended for the same monument, Cha¬ 
rity and Fortitude. Between them is the monument of Louis 
XVIII. with his bust. Before leaving the church, the visitor 
should remark the historical subjects illustrated by the stained 
glass of the clerestory windows, forming a chronological series 
of the principal events connected with the rulers of France in 
reference to the church, from St. Denis to Napoleon. A profu¬ 
sion of enamel paintings will be seen besides in every part of 
the church. The chapter of St. Denis consists of four canons 
of the first class, who are all bishops; 16 of the second, and 36 
honorary canons. A magnificent organ by Messrs. Cavaille, Coll, 
and Co., the largest in France, has lately been erected in this 
church. Adjoining, in the large and magnificent buildings of 
the monastery, is the Matson Royale d’Education de la Legion 
d'Honneur. ( See p. 85. ) In the town are several manufacto¬ 
ries, and a small theatre. The church of the Paroisse St. De¬ 
nis is a tolerable specimen of architecture, and deserves a 
visit. Three considerable fairs are held here annually, and a 
new abattoir has lately been opened for this town. (1) 

ST. GERMAIN EN LAYE—is a town of 12,000 inhabitants, 

5 leagues west of the capital. The kings of France had a small 
chateau at St. Germain, where Louis le Jeune resided in 1143; 
Francis I. chiefly contributed to make it a splendid royal resi¬ 
dence, by building a palace. Henry II., Charles IX., and 
Louis XIV. were bora at St. Germain. Henry IV. took great 
delight in it, as did his son Louis XIII., who died there in 1643. 
After the death of his mother, Anne of Austria, Louis XIV. fixed 
his residence at St. Germain. He made great alterations and 
additions to the palace and gardens, and completed the magni- 

( 1 ) For much interesting information concerning the abbey church 
of St. Denis, see History of Paris, 3 vols, 8 vo. 


ENVIRONS OP PARIS. 


514 

ficent terrace begun by Henry IV., which is half a league in 
length, and nearly 100 feet in breadth, shaded by stately trees, 
and commanding a magnificent view. Louis XIV. quitted St. 
Germain for Versailles; and when Madame de Montespan won 
his affection from Madame de la Valliere, lie presented the 
chateau of St. Germain to the latter for a residence. It was 
afterwards occupied by James 11., of England, who kept his 
court there for twelve years, until his death in 1701. Under 
Louis XV. and XVI. the palace of St. Germain was abandoned. 
During the Revolution it was converted into barracks, and Na¬ 
poleon established a military school in it for cavalry officers. 
It is now used as a military penitentiary, and can hold 500 pri¬ 
soners. It is a pentagonal pile, having a massive polygonal 
tower at each angle, and surrounded by a fosse and wall. Very 
little of the original internal decorations of the palace remain, 
except in the chapel. For permission to see the interior, ap¬ 
plication must be made by letter, post paid, to M. le Comman¬ 
dant du Chdteau de St. Germain; it is not however granted 
without much difficulty. On the Place du Chateau, fronting the 
Palace, is the church of St. Germain, approached by a fine Doric 
portico consisting of four columns in front, surmounted by a 
sculptured pediment. The interior is slightly cruciform, of the 
Ionic order, and has a nave and two aisles. In one of the late¬ 
ral chapels is a handsome Doric tomb, erected to the memory 
of James 11. by George IV. of England, with the inscription, 
Regio cineripietas regia. There are also several tolerable paint¬ 
ings. On the Place du Theatre is the theatre, newly fitted up 
and patronized by M. Alexandre Dumas. Adjoining the chateau 
is the Parterre , or public walk, ending in the stately forest of 
8,000 acres, entirely surrounded by walls; the immense terrace 
lines it on the Paris side, from which one of the finest views in 
Europe may be enjoyed. Several flights of steps descend from 
it on one side to the road below, while on the other is a car¬ 
riage-way. Underneath is the village of Pecq. ( See p. 497.) 
A splendid racing-stud jias been established in the forest by 
M. Auguste Lupin and M. Achille Fould. Some of the most ce¬ 
lebrated mares from the royal stud at Hampton Court are kept 
here, under the superintendence of Mr. Prince of Newmarket. 
The elevated position of St. Germain renders it salubrious, 
though in winter the air is keen. There are two annual fairs; 
one called F6le de St. Louis, the other F6te des Loges. The 
9 first lakes place at the entrance of the forest, near the gate of 
Poissy, on the Sunday after the 25th of August, and lasts three 
days. The second, which also lasts three days, begins on the 
first Sunday after the 30th of August, and is held near the 
Chateau des Loges, a house dependent upon the Maison Royale 


SURESNE. 545 

tie St. Denis. This fair, being held in the midst of the forest 
has a pleasing and very picturesque appearance, particularly 
at night, and is the most agreeable of any of the fetes in the 
neighbourhood of Paris. The town, once proverbial for its 
dullness, has since the opening of the railway from Paris as¬ 
sumed new life and activity. Numbers of Parisians make it their 
summer residence, and several English families are settled 
here. The terminus of the railroad was formerly at Pecq • 
but the experimental atmospherical railway now takes the 
tiains up to the Place du Chateau ot St. Germain. It begins at 
Nanterre, with a single tube of l foot 4 inches diameter as far 
as the wood of Vesinet, adjoining Chatou, where the new road 
branches off, from thence to the Place du Chateau it conti¬ 
nues with a bore of 2 leet 1 inch, for the purpose of givin n ad¬ 
ditional impulse to the train for the slope of 3y 2 per ce°nt it 
has to perform. As yet the tube reaches to Vesinet only, where 
the locomotive is taken off. The railroad crosses two bridges 
with wooden arches thrown over the Seine, which here forms 
an island; a fine viaduct upon 20 arches follows, and leads 
immediately to a tunnel pierced under the terrace, and para- 
bolically curved. The railway continues along an open trench, 
and by a second and much shorter tunnel arrives at the ter¬ 
minus, which is an elegant building of Ionic architecture. 
Three couples of fixed engines of 200 horse-power each, placed 
at St. Germain, Chatou, and Nanterre, effect the amosphe- 
ric vacuum in the tube. The velocity along the slope is really 
admirable; the train is left to its own impulse for the descent. 
Independently of the atmospheric apparatus, the train, in case 
ot accident, may be lowed up by a formidable locomotive, the 
Hercules, the first that ever accomplished a similar feat. The 
engineer who directed the works is M. Flachat; the fixed en¬ 
gines are by MM. Lecrosne and Cail. 

ST. OUEN—a league and a half north of Paris, on the left 
of the road to St. Denis, is known for its chateau, where 
Louis XVIII. slopped on his return to Paris in 1814, and where 
lie promised a charter to the nation. The chateau, built in 
1660, w r as bought by Louis XVIII., who, after embellishing and 
furnishing it, presented it to Madame du Cayla. This spot pos¬ 
sesses a number of subterranean storehouses for corn, which, 
though kept in them for several years, is found as good as 
when recently cut ; also an immense ice-house, which supplies 
Paris with about 6,000,000 kilos, a-year. (1) 

SURESNE—a village at the foot of Mont Valerien, two leagues 
west of Paris. It is remarkable for the interesting custom of 

(l) Ice-houses at Gen Lilly and La Villelte also supply Paris; they 
each furnish about 3,000,000 kilos. 


516 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 

the crowning of the Rosiere, a very pretty sight, which takes 
place on the Sunday after St. Louis’s day (August 25). There 
are several elegant villas at this place, one of the most remark¬ 
able being that of Baron S. de Rothschild. A light suspension 
bridge has been thrown across the river to meet the road lead¬ 
ing by the Porte de Longchamps to the Bois de Boulogne. 

VERSAILLES. (1)—This large handsome town, of which we 
subjoin a partial plan, which the visitor will lind of the utmost 
utility, is situated four leagues from the capital, towards the 
SW.; it is the chief place of the department of the Seine and 
Oise, the see of a bishop, the seal of a prefecture, and possesses 
three tribunals, of Criminal Justice, Premiere Instance , and 
Commerce, besides a royal college, and an agricultural society. 
Before the Revolution its population was computed at 100,000, 
but at present it does not contain 30,000 inhabitants. 

History. —In 1561 Versailles was a small village in the midst 
of woods, to which the king of Navarre, afterwards Henry IV., 
used to come to hunt. Subsequently it was much frequented 
for the like purpose by Louis XIII., who, in 1624, built a pa¬ 
vilion as a hunting lodge. A few years later he purchased 
some land where the palace now stands, with the old castel 
of F. de Gondy, archbishop of Paris, and erected a small cha¬ 
teau, which has grown into the present magnificent palace. 
That chateau, built of red brick, consisted of a central pile, 
with two wings and four pavilions; the whole enclosed by a 
fosse, and occupying scarcely more space than the inner apart¬ 
ments which now surround the Cour de Marbre. Louis XIV. 
in 1660, becoming tired of St. Germain, conceived the idea of 
converting his predecessor’s chateau into a splendid palace; 
the architect Levau was entrusted with the execution of the 
design, and the alterations were commenced in 1664. The 
monarch had determined to form there a residence worthy of 
the court he meditated establishing, and the difficulties of the 
undertaking, arising from the nature of the site, only stimu¬ 
lated his purpose. Le Notre was ordered to lay out the immense 
gardens and parks ; the vast terraces and excavations were 
executed at an incalculable expense; the troops not engaged 
in war were ordered to assist, and 30,000 soldiers were more 
than once simultaneously employed on the works. Water was 
required to be brought from a great distance to supply the re¬ 
servoirs and fountains; and the project was formed and ac¬ 
tually commenced, of turning the river Eure through Versailles. 

(l) The principal books of reference for Versailles are the splendid 
work of M. Gavard, “Galeries Hislorisques de Versailles. ” This work 
may be procured of Messrs.Galignani and Go.“LePalais de Versailles,” 
by M. Vatout, librarian to the King, i2mo. 







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VERSAILLES. 517 

Beyond the gardens a second inclosure was formed, called the 
Little Park, about four leagues in circuit; and beyond this still 
was the third inclosure, that of the Great Park, measuring 20 
leagues, and including numerous villages. The expense of all 
these stupendous undertakings was immense, and has been va¬ 
riously calculated; there are, however, no means of arriving 
at an accurate result; the general belief is, that the building 
and decoration of the palace cost less than the other works, 
and that nearly 40 millions sterling were altogether expended! 
Every encouragement was given to persons desirous of erecting 
houses in the town, and a large population and an elegant city 
gradually rose round the royal residence. Levau died in 1670, 
and Jules Hardouin Mansard, nephew of the celebrated Man¬ 
sard, was charged with the continuation pf the works. The 
architect wished to destroy all that remained of the chateau 
of Louis XIII., and to construct one uniform building; but 
Louis XIV. insisted on preserving it as a memento of his father, 
and therefore only allowed him to make alterations in the 
court, and to surround it on the western side with the magni¬ 
ficent piles of building forming the garden front. At first only 
the central part was erected, containing the grand apartments; 
then the southern wing for the younger branches of the royal 
family; and at length, in 1685, the northern one for other per¬ 
sonages of the court. The king continued to reside at St. Ger¬ 
main till 1681, although frequently visiting Versailles; but at 
that period the whole court removed to the new palace. Most 
of the dependencies were erected about this time : the chapel, 
however, was not begun till 1699, nor finished till 1710. Under 
Louis XV., the theatre, at the extremity of the northern wing, 
was begun by Gabriel, finished by Leroy, and inaugurated on 
the marriage of the Dauphin, Louis XVI., in 1770. Towards 
the end of the same reign, Gabriel added a wing and pavilion 
to the northern side of the Cour Royale; there was an idea also 
of building across the courts a new front in the same uniform 
style; but Louis XVI. was alarmed at the expense, and the 
troubles of his reign soon intervened. The corresponding pa¬ 
vilion, on the southern side was added by Louis XVIII. inde¬ 
pendently of the extensive internal changes effected by his 
present Majesty, a new pile of buildingjoining the chapel and 
theatre, has been added, and other works are still in progress. 
From the time of Louis XIV. to that of the great Revolution, 
with the exception of the Regency of the Duke of Orleans dur¬ 
ing the minority of Louis XV., 1715-1722, the court, the royal 
family, the ministers, and the various public officers, w'ere lo¬ 
cated in the palace of Versailles and its dependencies. The fur¬ 
niture was of the most gorgeous description; the ablest paint- 

44 


51 8 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 

ers and sculptors of France had adorned the edifice, which 
contained besides a large collection of the finest objects of art 
of foreign countries, and was all that might he expected from 
the most refined and luxurious court of Europe. But after 1792 
the palace was devastated, and every thing moveable disposed 
of as national property. An attempt was made to constitute it 
a succursal house to the Hotel des Invalides; and it would even 
have been sold in lots, had not Napoleon preserved it from 
destruction. The estimated expense of 50 millions of francs, for 
its restoration, alone hindered him from residing here; but he 
repaired the walls, fountains, etc., and restored some of the 
apartments. Louis XVIII., who wished to re-establish the court 
in it, was slopped by similar considerations, and limited his 
expenditure to 6 millions of francs, which were judiciously 
employed in repairs and alterations. “Things remained in the 
same stale during the reign of Charles X., and it was reserved 
lor Louis Philippe to give a destination to this palace. Time 
had produced its revolution in opinion, and Versailles could not 
again exist under the conditions of the monarchy of Louis XIV., 
it could no longer be the abode of a population of courtiers* 
or the Olympus of a monarch. For it to become the concentra¬ 
tion of all the illustrious of France, to collect the inheritance 
ol all her glories, and, without being despoiled of the type of 
giandeui now passed away, to be clothed with other gran¬ 
deur, new and national, was a destiny not less splendid or 
august than that at first assigned it.'’ (l) On the one hand, his 
present Majesty has not only removed all the petty internal 
arrangements by which the grand conceptions of Louis XIV. 
had in process of time become disfigured, but has restored all 
the painted ceilings, gildings, etc., has formed new galleries 
and saloons, and improved and harmonized the whole edifice; 
while, on the other hand, he has filled it with an immense se¬ 
ries ol paintings, sculpture, and works of art, illustrative of 
e\ ery event that has rellecled honour on the annals of France, 
from the cradle of the monarchy down to the present day/’ (2) 
The historical museum thus formed is without a parallel, like 
the palace that contains it; it is receiving continual additions 
and the estimated expense of what has been done by the kin" 
exceeds 15 millions of francs. a 

The Palace and its Dependencies.— Exterior. The palace is 
approached lrom the town by the Place d’Armes, 800 feet broad 
on the eastern side of which, flanking the Avenue de Paris are 
the Royal Stables, erected under Louis XIV. by J. H. Mansard 
They present semicircular fronts, with courts enclosed by hand¬ 
some iron railings, and have lofty gateways, ornamented with 
(l) Vatout, “ Le Palais de Versailles,” p. 21 . (2) Vatout, p. 22. 


VERSAILLES. 54 9 

trophies and sculptured pediments; behind are large courts 
and various ranges of buildings. Those to the north, called les 
Grandes Ecuries, contained the carriages and horses of the 
royal family; while those to the south, called les Petites ^cu¬ 
ries, though of the same size, were appropriated to the royal 
stud, the grooms, etc. The latter are now a cavalry barrack; 
the whole afforded accommodation for 1000 horses. The Grand 
Court, 380 feet in breadth, is separated from the Place d’Armes 
b> stone parapets, Hanking an iron railing, richly charged with 
gilded ornaments, with a central gateway, surmounted by the 
ancient crown and shield of France with the three fleurs delis. 
At the extremities of this railing are groups of figures in stone; 
those on the right representing France victorious over Austria, 
by Marsy, with the statue of Peace; those on the left, France 
victorious over Spain, by Girardon, with the figure of Abun¬ 
dance. The court itself slopes from the palace, and on each 
side is a plain range of buildings, erected by Louis X1Y. for 
the use ot the ministers. In front of those stand sixteen marble 
statues, twelve of which, until 1837, ornamented the Pont de 
la Concorde at Paris. Those on the right are Richelieu, Bayard, 
Colbert, Jourdan, Massena, Tourville, Duguay-Trouin, and Tu- 
renne; those on the left are Suger, Du Guesclin, Sully, Lannes, 
Mortier, Suffren, Duquesne, and Conde. In the midst, at the 
upper part of the court, is a colossal equestrian statue of Louis 
XIV.; the figure of the monarch by Petitot,—that of the horse, 
which was originally intended for a statue of Louis XV. in the 
Champs Elysees, by Carlelier. This is one of the best statues 
at Versailles. From this pointafineview isobtained of the three 
avenues which stretch beyond the Place d’Armes. Beyond the 
Grand Court, at first called the Cour des Minislres, is the Cour 
Royale, which, before the Revolution, was separated from it 
by an iron railing, and within which none but the carriages of 
royal personages, or those who had the right of bearing certain 
arms on their equipages, were admitted. On the northern side 
of this are a wing and pavilion, in the Corinthian style, erected 
by Gabriel, under Louis XV.; on the southern are those termi¬ 
nated under Louis XVIII. The friezes of the pediments sur¬ 
mounting these pavilions bear the inscription that announces 
the new destination of the palace “d toutes les gloires de 
Ioj France.” After this comes the Cour de Marbre , surrounded 
by the old palace of Louis XIII. AH this part of the edifice is 
of red brick; it is only two stories high, and is surmounted by 
a half-sloping roof. The whole is crowned with balustrades 
and sculpture, once richly gilt, and is ornamented with vases, 
trophies, busts, and statues. The busts, nearly all of white 
marble, and either antique or imitations of the antique, are 80 



520 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 

in number, and are placed on brackets between the windows; 
the statues, vases, etc., were all executed by the most celebrated 
sculptors of the age of Louis XIV. In the centre is a balcony 
of white marble, supported by eight Doric columns, of beauti¬ 
fully-coloured marble; above this are two recumbent figures, 
forming a kind of pediment, and supporting a clock—Mars, 
sculptured by Marsy, and Hercules, by Girardon. The dial- 
plate of this clock was used only to mark the hour of the last 
king’s death, which, in the case of Louis XIV., was announced 
by the principal gentleman of the bed-chamber, who came out 
on the balcony below, and, exclaiming “le roi est mort!” 
broke his wand of office; he then took up another, and cried 
“ Vive le Roi!” A round overhanging turret graces one of the 
corners of the southern wing. The pavement of the Cour de 
Marbre, from which it derives its name, was formerly much 
more elevated. In the centre stood a beautiful basin and foun¬ 
tain; and the court itself was often used by Louis XIV. for 
festivals and “masques.” To the south of the Cour Royale, 
a small court, called the Cour des Princes , divides the wing 
finished by Louis XVIII. from the main body of the southern 
wing of the palace. This wing encloses the Cour de la Surin- 
tendance, so called from the offices that once occupied its 
eastern side, and which have recently been ceded to the mu¬ 
nicipality of Versailles for the public library, etc. A street ap¬ 
proaches the palace on this side, and separates the southern 
wing from the Grand Commun, a vast square building, now 
a military hospital, substantially built of brick, enclosing a 
square court, and containing 1,000 rooms, in which no fewer 
than 3000 persons were lodged when the Court resided at 
Versailles. Having been converted into a manufactory of arms 
in 1795, the entrance was decorated with trophies in relief. 
This manufactory attained the highest celebrity, and supplied 
the French army annually with 50,000 muskets. In 1815 it 
was stripped and devastated by the Prussians. On the northern 
side of the Cour Royale a small court intervenes between 
the wing built by Louis XV. and the chapel, the architecture 
of which is remarkably florid and elegant, in the best style 
of the preceding age. It is ornamented with Corinthian pi¬ 
lasters between the windows, with sculpture, formerly gilt, 
and a balustrade, crowned by 28 statues. The external di¬ 
mensions are 148 feet by 75, in length and breadth, with an 
altitude of 90 feet. The height of its roof, richly edged with 
iron work, causes this building to be seen over the palace from 
almost every side, and is said to have resulted from a design 
of the architect, to force Louis XIV. to raise the whole palace 
another story. The northern wing comprises the Cour de la 


VERSAILLES. 521 

Bouchc, where the kitchens were, and the Cour du Thddtre; 
the latter bounded on the north by the Salle de VOpera, the 
exterior of which is plain and massive. Beyond the theatre is 
one of the great reservoirs which supply the fountains. The 
eastern side of these courts is, formed by a pile of building of 
elegant design, and harmonizing with the older parts of the 
palace, restored by his present Majesty; it forms one side of a 
wide street, to the east of which are some minor dependencies 
of the palace, and another reservoir. The Cour de la Chapelle 
and the Cour des Princes lead each into the gardens, and afford 
access to the magnificent western front of the palace—the 
grandest specimen of that style in France. It presents a large 
projecting mass of building, with two immense wings, and 
consists of a ground-floor, first-floor, of the Ionic style, and 
attic. The wings, the southern being rather the longer of the 
two, exceed 500 feet in length; the central front is 320 feel 
long, and each of its retiring sides 2G0 feet; the number of 
windows and doors is 375. Although of great perfection in its 
details, aud remarkable for the delicate colour of the stone, this 
structure has been justly criticised for its too great length and 
uniformity. Along the immense extent of the fagade there is no 
pediment, no pavilion, or other salient object to break the same¬ 
ness, except peristyles of coupled Ionic columns, from distance to 
distance. These peristyles are 15 in number, and above each 
are placed, over the cornice, allegorical figures in stone, of 
good execution. The balustrade which crowns the edifice was 
formerly surmounted by vases and groups, now destroyed by 
time. The best view of this front is from either end of the great 
terrace, and of the whole palace from the heights of Satory. 

Interior, and Historical Museum. (1) Before noticing the in¬ 
ternal arrangements of the palace, the reader should be in¬ 
formed that the gallery is only open to the public on Saturday, 
Sunday, Monday, and Tuesday, from 11 to 4. (See Preface, p. v.) 
The historical collections comprised in the palace may be di¬ 
vided into six principal sections:—1. Historical Pictures; 2. 
Portraits; 3. Busts and Statues; 4. Views of Royal Residences, 
etc.; 5. Marine Gallery; 6. Tombs. The historical pictures re¬ 
present the great battles, military and naval, which have il¬ 
lustrated the arms of France from the earliest periods:—the 
most remarkable historical events in the national annals;—the 
age of Louis XIV.;—the reigns of Louis XV. and Louis XVI.; the 
brilliant epoch of 1792;—the victories of the Republic;—the 

(l) In describing the interior of the palace, we shall follow the order 
laid down by M. Vatout, in his excellent work; and for detailed infor¬ 
mation on the pictures, statues, local particulars, etc., shall refer to the 
*yorks quoted in a preceding note, and to the catalogues of the museum. 


ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 


522 

campaigns of Napoleon;—the principal events of the Empire; 
the reign of Louis XVIII.;—the reign of Charles X.;—the Revo¬ 
lution of 1830, and the reign of Louis Philippe. The portraits 
comprise the Kings from Pharamond to the present day— 
Grand Admirals,—Constables, Marshals, and celebrated warriors 
of France, with a large collection of persons of note of all ages 
and countries. The busts and statues comprise also a great 
number of illustrious personages, from the earliest times of the 
monarchy, and a supplementary series is to be found, elucid¬ 
ating the history of France, in the medals and coins. The views 
of royal residences have a particular value, as representing 
editices, many of which no longer exist, and as illustrating the 
costumes, etc., of past times. To arrange these collections 
chronologically was found to be impossible, from the nature 
of the locality, the sizes of the' pictures, etc.; the classes, 
therefore, enumerated above have been kept together, as far as 
was compatible, and each of them may be examined separate¬ 
ly, or in conjunction with the rest. Additions to this gigantic 
and splendid museum are making every day. 

Northern Wing .—The interior of this wing has not been so 
much changed as that of other parts of the palace. It will be 
sufficient to enumerate the personages who have resided in it, 
to show that it possesses local interest. It stands in part on the 
site of the Fontaine de Tdthys, immortalized by La Fontaine, 
and was first inhabited by the Duke de Berri, grandson of 
Louis XIV., the Prince de Conti, elected King of Poland in 1097, 
the Duke du Maine, son of Louis XIV., the beautiful Marquise 
de riiianges, sister of Madame de Montespan, Marshal Villars, 
and the Duke de St. Simon, author of the Memoirs. In after 
times the ground-lloor was partly occupied by the Prince de 
Conde, who commanded the army of emigrants during the Re¬ 
volution; and the first floor by the Dukes of Angoul6me and 
Berri, sons ot Charles X. It was in the room of this story, im¬ 
mediately adjoining the vestibule of the chapel, that the Cardi¬ 
nal de Rohan was arrested for the affair of the famous necklace 
that had so fatal an influence on the destinies of Marie Antoi¬ 
nette and her court. 

The Historical Museum is entered from the ground-floor 
vestibule of the Chapel, on the side fronting the gardens. The 
walls are adorned with an allegorical allo-ritievo, representing 
Louis XIV. crossing the Rhine at Tolhuis in 1072. A suite of 
apartments, eleven in number, contains a series of pictures 
illustrating some of the principal events of the history of 
France up to the Revolution. At the end of this suite, the 
visitor, if provided with a special ticket, will be introduced to 
the Salle de I’Opera, described below, not to interrupt our 


VERSAILLES. 523 

present subject. Behind the historical apartments, in a gallery, 
300 feet in length, are the busts, statues, and monumental ef- 
figie> of the kings, queens, and illustrious personages of France 
to the reign ol Louis XV. In the middle of this gallery, on the 
left, is the entrance to the Salles des Croisades, a series of five 
splendid rooms in the Gothic style, forming a gallery of pic¬ 
tures relating to those interesting periods. The ceilings and 
walls are covered with armorial bearings of French knights 
who fought in the Holy Land; the 3d room, bisected by a 
series ot three arches, contains colossal pictures of battles 
fought during the crusades. Between the arches are three mo¬ 
numental tombs; the lateral ones, in plaster, bear the recum¬ 
bent figures of Parisol de la Vallette and Pierre d’Aubusson, 
Grand Masters of the Order of St. John of Jerusalem; the 
central one supports the original marble statue of Villiers de 
l isle Adam in the attitude of prayer; the piers of the arches 
and the intervals of the walls between the pictures are Idled 
with escutcheons bearing the respective names and dates. In 
the wall opposite the window are the oaken gates of the 
Hospital of the order of St. John of Jerusalem, in the island 
of Rhodes, given to the Prince de Joinville by Sultan Mah¬ 
moud in 183G. The shields above these gates are finely carved. 
On issuing from the statue gallery, a staircase by the side of the 
Chapel leads to the vestibule of the first lloor. Here is another 
gallery of statues, etc., of personages illustrious in the earlier 
ages of the monarchy; one of the most interesting of which is 
the admirable statue of Joan of Arc, executed by the late 
lamented Princess Marie of France, Duchess of Wurtemburg. 
In the central recess overlooking one of the principal stair¬ 
cases is a beautiful statue of the late Duke of Orleans, executed 
by Pradier, in while marble. The pedestal is octagonal; four 
of its sides are graced with statues of genii in niches, of ex¬ 
traordinary beauty; on two more are bas-reliefs illustrating 
scenes of the African campaign conducted by the Prince; the 
statue itself represents him in an easy silting posture; the dra¬ 
pery is graceful. From here doors lead to the Salle de Constan¬ 
tine, containing large pictures of the taking of that place, by 
Horace Vernet, besides other scenes of the war in Algeria, and 
the taking of Antwerp, Ancona, and St. John of Ulloa. In an 
adjoining saloon is the large picture, by Horace Vernet, of the 
surprise of the Smala of Abd-el-Kader, a painting which 
greatly occupied public attention in 1845, and the principal 
defect of which is considered to be its enormous extent, though 
the talent of the artist is unquestionable. Opposite is another 
large painting, by the same, of the affair of Sidi Braliim. Some 
Brussels tapestry will attract attention. Returning to the statue 



ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 


5 H 

gallery, the visitor ascends the staircase leading to the attic 
story, where a new room to the right has lately been opened, 
containing portraits of celebrated literati, men of science, and 
artists. Opposite is a suite of seven rooms on the garden-side, 
and three more looking into the northern court, containing a 
precious collection of historical portraits, many of which are 
original; between the embrasures of the windows are glass 
cases with coins, medals, etc. Returning to the first story, the 
visitor will examine a suite of 10 rooms, on the garden-side, 
constituting the Gallery of the Reign of Louis Philippe, in 
which the series of historical paintings is continued up to the 
revolution of 1830. It ends in the elegant Corinthian vestibule, 
already mentioned, with statues of France and Peace in niches, 
and affording a commodious view of 
The Chapel .—The interior of this edifice, restored by King 
Louis Philippe to its original splendour, affords one of the most 
magnificent spectacles to be witnessed at Versailles. All the 
grandeur and taste of the age of Louis XIV. were concentrated, 
as it were, in this single spot. The King, always punctual in 
his religious devotions, required daily attendance at mass from 
his courtiers, and founded a chapter of priests for the service 
of this Chapel. Many remarkable religious ceremonies took 
place before its altar; one of the most interesting was the mar¬ 
riage of Louis XVI. and Marie Antoinette, in 1769. It consists 
of a nave and aisles formed by arches with finely sculptured 
spandrils, and supporting the upper gallery fronted with Co¬ 
rinthian columns. The square compartments of the ceiling of 
this gallery are painted with sacred subjects. The internal di¬ 
mensions are 114 feet to the altar, 60 feet in breadth, and 86 
feet in height. The pavement is of costly marbles, divided into 
compartments, and wrought in mosaic; the balustrades of the 
galleries are of marble and gilded bronze. The vaulted ceiling 
springing from a rich architrave and cornice, above the lofty 
columns, glows from the pencil of A. Coypel, Lafosse, and 
Jouvenet; the figures over the organ and galleries are by the 
Boullongnes and Coypel. The Chapel of the Virgin should not 
escape notice; the paintings being the most exquisite produc¬ 
tions of the younger Boullongne. Before the visitor quits the 
gallery he should notice in the royal pew two admirable bas- 
reliefs, the Circumcision, by Poiriet, and Christ with the Doc¬ 
tors, by Coustou. In the aisles are seven chapels, or altars, 
ornamented with costly marbles, gilding, pictures, and bronze 
bas-reliefs, the latter peculiarly worthy of inspection. They 
stand in the following order: 1, Martyrdom of Sle. Adelaide, 
by Adam; 2, Ste. Anne teaching Hie Virgin ; 3, St. Charles Bor- 
romeo imploring Heaven to arrest the plague at Milan, by 


VERSAILLES. 525 

Bouchardoii; 4, the Chapelle du Dauphin, opposite to which is 
a Last Supper, by Paul Veronese; 5, Martyrdom of St. Peter; 
6, St. Louis succouring the plague-stricken, by Poiriet; 7, Mar¬ 
tyrdom of Ste. Victoire. The high altar is exceedingly grand, 
being ornamented on either side with marble statues of 
Louis XIII. and Louis XIV., offering their crowns to the Virgin; 
the organ is considered as one of the finest in France. The 
windows are arched, and bordered with stained glass. During 
the Revolution this Chapel remained almost uninjured. Service 
is chaunted here every Sunday morning with great pomp. The 
interior of the Chapel is only visible on Wednesdays, Thurs¬ 
days, and Fridays from 12 to 4. 

The Salle de VOpera .—At the opposite extremity of the 
northern wing, and approached by a staircase lately construct¬ 
ed, is the theatre. Its length is 144 feet, divided into equal 
parts by the curtain; its breadth 60 feet, and its height 60; 14 
Ionic columns, fluted and gilt, separate the upper boxes, front¬ 
ed with balustrades, etc., richly gilt. The other decorations 
are in crimson and gold, with a profusion of mirrors and chan¬ 
deliers. The ceiling is by Durameau. The King and court oc¬ 
cupy during the representations the platform above the pit, 
vyhich is reserved for the Staff. The central box of the first 
tier is for the Ambassadors. Behind the entrance is the Foyer 
du Rot, where the Court retire for refreshment between the 
acts. It is of Ionic architecture, lit by four windows; above 
the doors and chimney piece are fine alti-rilievi, and the de¬ 
corations are in keeping with those of the Salle. The Foyer 
des Ambassadeurs is below. Of the grand fGles given here, the 
first was in honour of the marriage of Louis XVI.; the next, 
for the birth of his son; the third, the ill-judged banquet of 
the Gardes du Corps, in 1789; the fourth, on the grand inau¬ 
guration of the Historical Museum, 17th May, 1837 ; and the 
last, on the occasion of the National Exhibition in 1844. (See 
p. 190.) On the first of these occasions it was lighted with 
10,000 wax candles, and the expense, whenever a grand opera 
was performed, is said to have been upwards of 100,000 fr. 
This is not open to the public without a special permission, 
which is to be obtained by writing to M. I’Intendant de la 
Lisle Civile, No. 9, Place Vendome. 

From the vestibule of the Chapel the visitor enters 

The Grands Appartements, which occupy the whole of the 
first floor of the central projecting building facing the garden; 
the suite on the north belonged to the King, that on the south 
was the Queen’s. The former present a striking constrast to 
the other suites of the palace; they are large and lofty, en¬ 
crusted with marbles, and loaded with'a profusion of massive 


526 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 

gilded ornaments; the ceilings are richly painted, and the ge¬ 
neral effect is gorgeous. The Queen’s apartments are in white 
and gold, with ceilings less richly painted, and from their 
southern aspect have a light and cheerful appearance. All these 
rooms, which have been restored with great care and judg¬ 
ment, contain a most interesting series of pictures and portraits 
illustrative of the life and domestic relations of Louis XIV. 
The Salon d’Hcrcule, which precedes the suite, once descended 
to the ground-floor, and was the chapel where Bossuel and 
Massillon preached. The splendid ceiling, G4 feet hy 54, repre¬ 
senting the apotheosis of Hercules, was executed hy Lemoine 
in 1729. Here are also the equestrian portrait of Louis XIV., 
and the Passage of the Rhine. The three following rooms are 
the Salons de rAbondance, de Venus, and de Diane, whicli 
derive their names from the subjects painted on the ceilings, 
of the two first hy Houasse, of the latter hy Blanchard. In 
that of Venus is a beautiful group in white marble, hy Pradier, 
representing the three Graces, and in that of Diana, is the por¬ 
trait of Marie Therese d’Autriche. The entrance to the Salle 
des Etats Generaux is from the Salle de l’Abondance. Its walls 
are covered with paintings representing the sittings of the 
States General on various occasions, the lits de justice, etc., 
thus forming a complete history of the origin and gradual pro¬ 
gress of Constitutional government in France. Three more 
rooms follow, with other historical pictures. Returning to the 
Grands Appartements, the Salon de Mars was used as a ball¬ 
room by Louis XIV.; its ceiling is by several artists of that age. 
Beyond is the Salon de Mercure, once the stale bed-room, and 
remarkable for its ceiling by Philippe de Champagne. Next is 
the Salon d’Apollon, or Throne Room, where Louis XIV. re¬ 
ceived ambassadors, accepted the apology of the Doge of 
Genoa, and in 1715 held his last public audience. It was used 
for similar purposes by Louis XV. and Louis XVI.; the ceiling 
is by Lafosse. The Salon de la Guerre, consecrated to the mi¬ 
litary glory of Louis XIV., contains a ceiling by Lebrun, re¬ 
presenting France chastising Germany, Spain, and Holland. 
It leads into the Grande Galerie des Glaces, (or de L ouis XIV.,) 
one of the finest rooms in the world, extending with the Salon 
de la Guerre and the Salon de la Paix, at the opposite extre¬ 
mity, along the whole of the central facade, and measuring 
242 feet in length, 35 feel in width, and 43 feet in height. It is 
lighted hy 17 large arched windows, which correspond with 
arches on the opposite wall, filled with mirrors, sixty Corin¬ 
thian pilasters of red marble, with bases and capitals of gilt 
bronze, fill up the intervals between the windows and between 
the arches; each of the entrances is adorned with columns of 


VERSAILLES. 527 

the same order. The vaulted ceiling was painted along its 
whole length by Lebrun; and is divided into nine large and 
eighteen smaller compartments, in which are allegorically re¬ 
presented the principal events in the history of Louis XIV., 
from the peace of the Pyrenees in 1669 to that of Nimeguen in 
1678. In niches on either side are marble statues of Venus, 
Minerva, Adonis, and Mercury. “ It was in this gallery,” says 
M. Valout, “that Louis XIV. displayed all the grandeur of 
royalty; and such was the luxury of the times, such the splen¬ 
dour of the court, that its immense size could hardly contain 
the crowd of courtiers that pressed round the monarch.” 
Several splendid 16tes were held in it, of which those on the 
marriage of the Duke de Bourgogne in 1697, and on the arrival 
of Marie Antoinette, were the most brilliant. At a short dis¬ 
tance down, through one of the doors to the left, is the entrance 
to the private apartments, the first of which is the Cabinet du 
lloi, or Salon du Conseil, containing part of the original fur¬ 
niture of the time of Louis XIV., among which will he noted 
the council table and fauleuil of the King. At one end is a 
celebrated clock, which displays a figure of that Monarch, and 
plays a chime when the hour strikes. In this room Louis XIV. 
used to transact business with his ministers Colbert, Louvois, 
and Torey; here he took leave of Marshal Villars, when the 
fate of the monarchy depended on the campaign which ended 
with the victory of Denain, here he received Lord Bolingbroke; 
here he introduced to the grandees of Spain his grandson, the 
Duke d’Anjou, as their king, and declared that “ thenceforth 
there were no Pyrenees.” Louis XV. here signed the decree 
for expelling the Jesuits, in 1762, and the treaty that terminat¬ 
ed the seven years’ war, in 1763; here, also, that easy monarch 
suffered Mine, du Barri to sit on the arm of his chair in the 
presence of the Council, and to fling into the tire a packet of 
unopened dispatches. On the 23d June, 1789, in the recess of 
the window nearest the Royal Bedchamber, Louis XVI. received 
from the Marquis de Dreux-Breze the bold reply of Mirabeau, 
that “ the deputies were assembled by the will of the people, 
and would not leave their place of meeting except by the force 
of his master’s bayonets!” The next room is the Chambre d 
Coucher de Louis XIV., which occupies the centre of the front 
towards the Cour de Marbre, and is the gem of the palace. 
The decorations of this splendid room, of the Composite order, 
are exceedingly magnificent, and the furniture has been care¬ 
fully restored to the state in which it was at the decease of 
the “Grand Monarch.” The present ceiling is adorned with 
the “ Titans ” of Paul Veronese, brought from the hall of the 
Council of Ten, at Venice, by Napoleon; portraits of the im- 






528 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 

mediate ancestors of Louis XVI. decorate the walls, also two 
fine pictures of the Italian school. The bed, enclosed by a 
splendidly gilt balustrade, is that on which the great King died, 
and the coverlet and hangings are partly the work of the young 
ladies of St. Cyr. Since the death of Louis XIV. no monarch 
has slept in this room; but from the balcony Louis XVI., at¬ 
tended by his Queen and children, addressed the infuriated 
mob who came to drag him from his palace on the 6th October, 
1789. A gilt model of the imperial crown of Charlemagne has 
recently been placed in this room. We next come to the OEil 
de Bceuf, a beautifully decorated room, the grand antechamber 
of the King, so called from an oval window at the extremity, 
and celebrated in the annals of Versailles for the intrigues of 
courtiers, who waited here the “lever” of the monarch. 
Louis XVI. and Marie Antoinette dined here in public on Sun¬ 
days. A door on the left leads to the Salle des Gardes du 
Corps du Rot, and the Salle des Valets de pied du Roi , con¬ 
taining some good paintings of the Flemish school. 

Leading from these apartments, on the northern side of the 
Cour de Marbre, is a suite of rooms, called Les Cabinets, to 
which none were admitted but those who had the grande en¬ 
tree. They are not open to the public without a special order. 
The first was the billiard-room of Louis XIV., and was after¬ 
wards the bed-chamber of his successors; here the death of 
Louis XV., so graphically described in Madame Campan’s Me¬ 
moirs, took place. Beyond is the Salle des Pendules, so called 
from a magnificent clock, which shows the days of the month, 
the phases of the moon, the revolution of the earth, and the 
motion of the planets. Near this is a fine marble table, on 
which is engraved a plan of the forest of St. Germain. On the 
floor is a meridian line traced by the hands of LouisXVI. Next 
comes the Cabinet des Chasses, from whence a window on a 
balcony looks into the Cour des Cerfs, where the Royal Family 
placed themselves after grand hunting parlies to see the game 
counted in the court. A grating on the left of this window ad¬ 
mitted Madame du Barri secretly to the chamber of Louis XV.; 
her apartment was over this room, and was approached by a 
small staircase, the access to which is by a richly gilded door. 
At the bottom of this staircase, leading into the Cour de Mar¬ 
bre, an attempt was made to assassinate Louis XV. by Damiens 
in 1757. On the same floor with the apartment of Madame du 
Barri are several small chambers, w here LouisXV. and his suc¬ 
cessor used to seclude themselves; adjoining was a workshop 
where Louis XVI. had his turning-lathe established, and another 
in which his forge still exists. Above was a belvedere, over¬ 
looking the palace and neighbourhood, where the latter mo- 




VERSAILLES. §29 

narch was accustomed to sit with a telescope, and amuse him¬ 
self in watching what passed in the town and palace gardens. 
The Cabinet des Cliasses contains the portraits of the principal 
architects, painters, etc., who have contributed to the build¬ 
ing and ornamenting of the palace. An elegant cupboard will 
be remarked, with a miniature representing a hunting party 
and adorned around with medallions, in Sevres porcelain, of 
family portraits of the time. A room adjoining this, on the 
Cour des Cerfs, was the private apartment of Madame de Main- 
tenon, in which Louis XIV. passed most of his evenings in the 
latter part of his life; it is now the saloon of King Louis Phi¬ 
lippe during his visits to Versailles. The Cabinet de Louis XVI., 
where the king traced out the route of the unfortunate La- 
peyrouse, was the private dining-room of Louis XIV., in which 
he generally dined with Madame de Mainlenon and his family. 
The great monarch never touched tea, chocolate, coffee, or 
any liqueur; he disliked game, but was fond of pastry; he had 
only two meals a-day, and drank no other wine than Cham¬ 
pagne, always iced. In this room Louis XIV. himself waited on 
Moliere, to teach his courtiers to respect genius. Immediately 
adjoining is his Confessional, and the identical chair once oc¬ 
cupied by P&re la Chaise, or Pere Letellier, whilst gaining that 
influence over the royal mind which ended in the Revocation 
of the Edict of Nantes. The private apartments terminate here 
at the extremity ot the Cour de Marbre; they contain numerous 
portraits and pictures relating to the personages and times by 
which they have been rendered remarkable. Returning to the 
Salle des Pendules, the visitor passes to the Cabinet de Travail, 
with an equestrian portrait of Louis XIV.; next are the Cabinet 
de la Vaisselle d’or, with a portrait of Madame de Maintenon, 
and the infant Marie Adelaide of Savoye at her knees; the Ca¬ 
binet des Medailles, with a miniature painting of line execu¬ 
tion representing the Coronation of Louis XV., the Bibliotheque, 
where the historians of France are now collected, and in 
which, in a cupboard near the northern door, the famous 
Livre Rouge was discovered; and the Salle d manger de Louis 
XV., with three paintings, the taking of Cambrai, of Naer- 
don, and ofReinberg. 

A small door in the south-west corner of the OEil de Boeuf 
communicates with the Queen’s private apartments and bed¬ 
room. These also require a special ticket, and go by the name 
of Petits Appartements de Marie Antoinette. By another door 
on the right the visitor re-enters the Galerie des Glaces, at the 
end of which is the Salon de laPaix, one of the most beautiful 
rooms in the palace. The ceiling, by Lebrun, represents 
France dispensing universal peace and abundance; this saloon 

45 




330 


ENVIRONS OP PARIS. 


was formerly used as the Queen’s card-room, and was the scene 
ot many curious and piquant anecdotes. From this opens the 
Chambre d Coacher de Marie Antoinette, occupied successively 
by Maria Iheresa, Queen of Louis XIV., Maria Leczinska, Queen 
of Louis XV., and Marie Antoinette. Here the Duchess de 
Bourgogne gave birth to Louis XV., and Marie Antoinette to 
the Duchess d’Angouleme, and here the latter unfortunate 
Queen was roused from her bed on the fatal night of the 5th 
and 6th October, 1789, and forced to escape by a small corridor 
leading to the OEil de Bceuf, from the mob which had burst 
into the palace. 1 he decorations of this room are exceedingly 
chaste; the ceiling is by Boucher. The Salon de la Reine was 
used for the Queen’s evening parties, which were at their 
highest splendour under Maria Theresa, Queen of Louis XIV. 
The ceiling is by Michael Corneille. In the Salon du Grand 
Convert de la Reine, Louis XIV., during the life-time of his 
consort, frequently dined. Maria Leczinska always dined here 
in public, and also Marie Antoinette while Dauphiness. The 
present ceiling is remarkable for a fine painting by Paul Vero¬ 
nese, St. Mark and the Theological Virtues, brought by Na¬ 
poleon from Venice. The next room, the Salle des Valets de 
pied de la Reine , contains an admirable ceiling, by Coypel, 
and has obtained a melancholy celebrity from the slaughter of 
the Queen’s guards, on the occasion above alluded to. Here is 
a marble statue by Coysevox, representing Marie Adelaide of 
Savoy in the costume of Diana, and marble busts of Louis XVI 
Louis XV. in his youth, Marie Antoinette, Marie Leczinska, Louis 
the Dauphin, Marie Adelaide, and Madame Elizabeth. The 
Queen’s state apartments terminate here at the Escalier de 
Marbre, which is one of the finest in France for the richness 
and variety of its marbles, and produces a grand effect. Im¬ 
mediately leading from them is the Grande Salle des Gardes, 
now called the Salle du Sacre, from its containing David’s fa¬ 
mous picture of the Coronation of Napoleon. (1) Opposite is 
his distribution of the Eagles to the Legions, and facing the 
windows, the Battle ot Aboukir, by Gros. Here also are 
paintings ot Napoleon, as General and as Emperor. Several 
small rooms completing the remainder of this wing formed the 
Chapel ot the Chateau of Louis XIII .; they were inhabited by 
Louis de Bourbon, Count de Clermont, under Louis XV. and 
now contain pictures illustrative of the campaigns of 1793 and 

tli" — j: - • » ” 


fo 

of uuc vuriMKHiuu, iusu wy uavia, was lately sold in Paris tor less than 
3000 tr* 



VERSAILLES. 53 /J 

called the Salle des Cent Stiisses, and now Salle de 1792. It 
is now one of the most interesting apartments of the palace 
containing portraits of all the great military characters of the 
Revolution, and many in duplicate, representing them as in 
1792, and as they afterwards became under the empire. Na¬ 
poleon is seen as lieutenant-colonel, in 1792, and as Emperor 
in 1806; Marshal Lannes as sub-lieutenant, in 1792, and Duke 
de Montebello, in 1804 ;—Marshal Soult as sergeant, in 1792 
and Duke de Dalmatie, in 1804;—Murat as sub-lieutenant in 
1792, and King of Naples, in 1806; Marshal Bernadotte, the late 
lung of Sweden, as lieutenant, in 1792, and Prince of Ponte- 
corvo, 1804;—Louis Philippe, as lieutenant-general, in 1792 
and King in 1830. Besides these are valuable portraits of La¬ 
fayette, Dumouriez, Kellermann, and most of the marshals of 
Napoleon. Two rooms adjoining contain additional subjects 
of 1793 and 1794. A few steps in one corner of this room lead 
to a series of eight rooms, called from their contents the Gal- 
lerie des Gouaches et Aquarelles des Campagnes de 1796 a 
1814. In this division of the palace are also the old apart¬ 
ments of Cardinal de Fleury, minister to Louis XIV. 

The upper story of the centre, like the corresponding one 
in each of the wings, was occupied in the palmy days of Ver¬ 
sailles by the nobles officially attached to the court. The apart¬ 
ments contained in it are now appropriated to the general 
service of the palace, and to part of the museum of portraits. 

Southern Wing. This part of the Palace, being appropriated 
to the children and immediate family of the monarch, was 
called Aile des Princes; its internal arrangement having been 
recently entirely changed, it is no longer possible to point out 
the places ol local interest, as in the central building; it will 
therefore be sufficient briefly to enumerate the Princes who 
inhabited it. I lie southern end of the first floor was appro¬ 
priated to the grandchildren of Louis XIV., wuth Fenelon as 
their preceptor; the Duke of Orleans, brother of Louis XIV., 
and the Duke de Chartres, afterwards Regent, occupied the 
remainder. At a later period it was inhabited by the Count 
d’Arlois, afterwards Charles X., the Duke de Penthievre, and 
other Princes of the blood royal. At the northern extremity of 
the wing were the apartments of the Duke of Orleans, Phi¬ 
lippe Egalile, and under it, where the arcade now leads into 
the garden, was a small theatre, in which Lull! and Quinault 
often charmed the ears of the court. On the ground-floor, the 
daughters of Louis XIV., the Count and Mile, de Charolais’ the 
Princess de Lamballe, the Dauphin, son of Louis XVI., his 
sister, the Duchess d’Angouleme, and the Count de Provence, 
afterwards Louis XVIII., were successively lodged. The upper 




532 


ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 


story, as has been already observed, was occupied by nobles 
of the court. 

From the Salle de 1792 the visitor enters this wing, on the 
first floor, after passing the Escalier des Princes , adorned 
with coupled Composite pilasters, a highly sculptured ceiling, 
numerous bas-reliefs, and marble statues of Louis XIV. and’ 
Louis Philippe, and finds himself in the Grande Galerie des 
Batailles , or Galerie de Louis Philippe, which includes the 
greater part of the attic, and constitutes an immense gallery 
393 feet in length, 42 in breadth, and the same in height. 
Coupled columns at each extremity and in the centre, sup¬ 
porting intermediate arches, relieve the monotony of so great 
a length; the roof, vaulted like the Galerie des Glaces, is lighted 
by double sky-lights, and richly ornamented with gilded com¬ 
partments. At each end are frescos by Abel de Pujol, and on 
the walls are pictures of large dimensions, representing great 
military triumphs, commencing with the battle of Tolbiacs 
gained by Clovis in 496, and ending with that of Wagram’ 
6th July, 1809. The effect of this gallery is exceedingly im¬ 
posing. The works of Gerard and Horace Vernet, among other 
fine productions, cannot fail to attract attention. Around are 
busts of eminent generals on pedestals; and in the embrasures 
of the central windows are the names of the Princes, admirals 
marshals of trance, etc., inscribed on black marble. Next to 
this is the Salle de 1830, devoted to pictures recording the 
principal events of that memorable revolution. Namely: Louis 
Philippe on the Place de Greve; Declaration of the Deputies 
and the Distribution of standards to the National Guards. The 
ceiling is painted by Picot with a group of Justice, Truth, and 
fortitude. Behind these rooms runs a gallery 327 feet lon<* 
lilted with statues and busts of celebrated personages from 1600 
to 1792, called the Galerie de Louis XIV. By a staircase on the 
right in this gallery, the visitor ascends to the Attique du Midi 
previous to which, he will remark a painting opposite the 
landing-place representing the Death of Louis XIII. The attic 
itself consists of live rooms, filled with historical portraits, the 
greater part of which relate to personages anterior to the’ first 
revolution. In the last room he will find, besides other por- 
traits of the Royal Family of England, full-length pictures of 
George IV. and the Duke of York; and also portraits of Pitt and 
fox. Next follows a room partly bisected by a central parti¬ 
tion containing views of the Royal Residences , and another 
similar to it, with portraits of our time, and others contem¬ 
porary with Napoleon. In a smaller room are those of 
Louis XVIII., Charles X., and the Duke d’Angoul&ne. In a small 
cabinet annexed is a series of full-length miniature portraits 


VERSAILLES. 533 

and a painting by Heim, representing Charles X. distributing 
the Cross of St. Louis. Next comes the interior of the turret, 
already mentioned, overlooking the Corn* de Marbre, contain¬ 
ing a bust of Louis XIII., and leading to the Escalier de Marbre, 
which we descend along its whole length. In a niche on a 
landing-place of this most splendid staircase is a statue of 
Henry IV. in his youth, by Bosio. The vestibule below contains 
busts of Boileau, Santeuil, Claude Perrault, and other eminent 
men. By a small staircase to the left the visitor descends to the 
Galerie des Tombeaux, a collection of models in plaster of mo¬ 
numental statuary from the tombs of remarkable personages. 
At the opposite extremity steps lead down to six vaulted 
rooms, below the level of the Cour de Marbre, in which the 
series above is continued, and where line plaster models will 
be seen of Louis XVI., Louis XVIII., Charles X., etc. On 
reascending we find the Galerie de VEmpire , 327 feel long, 
filled with statues and busts of celebrated generals from 1790 
to 1815. Here is a splendid colossal marble statue of Gen. Hoche, 
by Milhomme, also statues in marble of Kleber, Pichegru, 
Custine, Leclerc, etc. The Galerie des Marines and another 
collection of portraits in four rooms, opened in Feb. 1844, are 
entered from this gallery. The visitor will then be introduced 
to a large saloon at the southern end, dedicated to the glo¬ 
rious recollections of Marengo, etc., and return through a 
suite of fourteen rooms, facing the gardens, containing more 
than 300 pictures illustrative of the military history of Na¬ 
poleon from 179G to 1810. Midway is the Salle de Napoleon, 
containing the various statues and busts of the Emperor. On 
leaving this suite, by descending the Escalier des Princes, and 
crossing a vestibule, the visitor enters the 

Centre Ground floor. — These apartments on the southern 
side of the palace towards the garden were occupied by the 
Grand Dauphin, son of Louis XIV., until his death, in 1711; 
afterwards, by the Duke de Berri, grandson of that monarch; 
by Louis the Dauphin, son of LouisXV., and father of LouisXVI.; 
by Louis XVL, and Marie Antoinette; and Louis XVIII. They 
now contain the portraits of the Grand Admirals, Constables, 
and the Marshals of France. The centre of the western front 
was a vestibule in the time of Louis XIV., by which egress was 
afforded to the gardens; it was afterwards converted into apart¬ 
ments by Louis XV., and now forms the beautiful gallery of 
Louis XIII., one of the happiest alterations effected by his pre¬ 
sent Majesty. The apartments on the northern side were those of 
the amiable Count and Countess de Toulouse under Louis XIV., 
and, afterwards, of the Princesses, daughters of Louis XV.; they 
now contain the long series of portraits of marshals and cele-* 


534 ENVIRONS OF PARIS- 

brated warriors. The last rooms of this suite, near the vestibule 
ol the chapel, were successively tenanted by Madame de Montes- 
pan, under Louis Xl\., and Madame de Pompadour, under his 
successor. The rooms on this floor had been spoiled by altera¬ 
tions made under Louis XV., and it remained for his present Ma- 
jesly to restore them to their original state. Behind the Galerie 
de Louis XIII. were the bathing-rooms of Marie Antoinette 
now changed into the Gallery of the Kings of France. The other 
rooms on this floor, surrounding the Cour de Marbre, contain 
on the south some views of royal residences of France. Four 
sma 1 courts two on either side, are comprised within the 
buildings of this central pile; adjoining that to the north was 
a magnificent vestibule and staircase of marble leading to the 
grand apartments, in the time of Louis XIV. This was taken 
down by his successor, but the corresponding staircase, on the 
southern side, known since then as the Escalier de Marbre, with 
its vesnhule, was suffered to remain; another staircase, of ele¬ 
gant construction, called Escalier des Ambassadeurs , has been 
formed near the vestibule of the chapel by Louis Philippe. 

The Gardens and Park. The former no longer contain the 
trees planted by Louis XIV.; they were destroyed in 1775 bv 
order of Louis XVI., and the garden was replanted. The stranger 
is astonished not less by the variety and effect of the plantations 
and water than by the immense number and beauty of the 
statues, groups, and vases.—' TheTerrasse du Chdteau has four fine 
bronze statues, after the antique, by the Kellers, namely Silenus 
Antinous, Apollo, and Bacchus. At the angles are two beautiful 
vases in while marble, ornamented with bas-reliefs.—The Par- 
terre d’Eau contains two oblong basins, upon the borders of 
which repose twenty-four magnificent groups, in bronze viz 
eight nymphs, eight groups of children, and the four principal 
riveis ol France with their tributaries, namely, the Garonne and 
Dordogne the Seine and Marne, the Bhone and Saone, and the 
Loire and Loiret. The groups of children were cast by Aubry 

and Roger, and the other figures by the Kellers. From the centre 

o Hip Ip? aSin 1>1Se )eU .? ea : u > in the sha pe of a basket. At the ends 
of the^te! race opposite the palace, are two fountains, adorned 

T h *? ou V & ot animals m bronze, cast by Keller.—The Parterre 
du Midi extends m front of the southern wing of the palace 

b^rTs nlot W T» Ci !‘ CUlai ‘ b3SinS ° f White marble ’ surrounded 
by & iass plots. This terrace is separated from the Parterre d’Ean 

by a parapet level with the latter, upon which areplaceTtwe^ve 

vases in bionze, cast by Duval. In the centre is a flight of while 

marble steps, ornamented on each side by a sphinx in white 

marble, surmounted by a child in bronze.-The side nearest 

the palace displays a bronze slalue of Napoleon—The Orangerie, 


VERSAILLES. 535 

situated below the Parterre du Midi, is bounded on each side 
by an immense flight of 103 steps, leading to an iron gale on 
the road to Brest. The piers of these gates are crowned by 
groups in stone, and the green-houses, constructed after the 
designs of Mansard, extend on three sides, forming a splendid 
structure of Tuscan architecture. Here the orange and pome- 
granale-lrees, etc., are preserved during the winter, and in 
summer are removed to the walks of the Orangery, and other 
parts ofthe garden. In the midst of the principal green-house, 
opposite the entrance, is a fine colossal statue of Louis XIV., 
by Desjardins. One of the orange trees possesses an historical 
character. It was contemporary with Francois I., and formed 
part of the confiscated properly ofthe Connetable de Bourbon, 
whence it is called le Grand Bourbon. It was produced from 
seed in 1421, and, after flourishing under 12 reigns, does not 
seem to have approached theend ofitslongcareer. Its branches 
are now encircled by iron rings to support their weight. The 
ground in front of the Orangery is divided into flower-beds, with 
a basin and fountain in the centre.—The Parterre du Nord, 
approached by a flight of steps in white marble, is in front of 
the northern wing of the palace, and is separated from the Par¬ 
terre d’Eau by a wall crowned with 14 bronze vases, cast by 
Duval. At the angles near the steps are two fine vases of Egyp¬ 
tian marble, by Rousseau, and on the sides of the steps two 
statues copied from the antique, the one the Arrotino, by 
Fognini, and the other, Venus, by Coysevox. This terrace is 
laid out in floor-beds, and ornamented with the two basins 
des Couronnes and that de la Pyramide. The former derive 
their name from two groups of Tritons and Syrens supporting 
crowns of laurel, from the midst of which issue columns of 
water. The bassin de la Pyramide consists of four round basins 
rising one above another in a pyramidal form. The figures 
are in lead ; those of the two first basins are by Lehongre, and 
those of the third by Girardon. Along the shrubbery which 
bounds this parterre on the north are eight statues in white 
marble. Below the bassin de la Pyramide are the Baths of 
Diana, a small square basin, of which one side is ornamented 
with bas-reliefs in lead, by Girardon, representing, in the centre, 
the nymphs of Diana at the bath, and at each extremity a river. 
—The Allee d'Eau, in front of the baths of Diana, leads to the 
two basins du Dragon, and de Neptune, between two long and 
narrow grass-plots, in each of which are seven groups of chil¬ 
dren in bronze, in the midst of while marble basins separated 
by yew-trees. Each group forms a sort of tripod supporting a 
second basin of Languedoc marble, from the centre of which 
the water rises and overflows into the basin below. On the sides 




536 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 

of the avenue lie the groves called Bosquet de l'Arc de Triomphe 
and des Trois Couronnes, which possessed many works of art, 
but retain little of their ancient magnificence. At the extremity 
of the avenue is a semicircle formed by a close hedge, in front 
of which are eight groups similar to those in the avenue, form¬ 
ing a total number of 22.—The Bassin du Dragon derives its 
name from the dragon or serpent Python, surrounded by four 
dolphins and a similar number of swans. The only part that 
now remains is the grand jet d’eau, that issues from the dragon’s 
mouth.—The Bassin de Neptune is the most splendid of all the 
fountains at Versailles. Upon the upper border stand 22 large 
vases in lead ornamented with bas-reliefs. Against the side are 
three immense groups in lead. That in the centre, by Adam 
senior, represents Neptune and Amphitrile seated in a vast shell, 
and accompanied by nymphs, tritons, and sea-monsters. The 
group on the east is Proteus, by Bouchardon; and that on the 
west, Ocean resting upon a sea-unicorn, by Lemoine. At the 
angles repose upon pedestals two colossal dragons bearing 
Cupids, by Bouchardon. From these five groups, especially 
that in the centre, issues a deluge of water, which is further 
augmented by grand jets d’eau rising from different parts of 
the basin, and also from the vases. From the Bassin de Neptune 
we return to the Parterre d’Eau by the avenue des Trois Fon¬ 
taines and des Ifs, which are in the same line. The former is 
without ornament; the latter contains 14 white marble vases 
and 5 statues.—The Parterre de Latone lies between the Par¬ 
terre d’Eau and the AlUe du Tapis Vert. On the right and left 
are declivities which form a curving road, skirted by yew-trees 
and bounded by a close hedge, along which are ranged statues 
and groups in marble. Between the two declivities just de¬ 
scribed, is a magnificent flight of steps leading from the Par- 
lei le d Eau to that de Latone, at the top of which are two vases 
of white marble exhibiting the sun, the emblem of Louis XIV. 
These steps lead to a semicircular terrace in advance of the 
Bassin de Latone, and descend, by two smaller flights, to a 
lower terrace on which this elegant basin is situated. These 
steps are ornamented with 12 beautiful vases, enriched with 
has leliefs. The Bassin de Latone presents five circular basins 
which lise one above another in the form of a pyramid, sur¬ 
mounted by a group of Latona with Apollo and Diana, by Marsy. 
The goddess implores the vengeance of Jupiter against the 
peasants of Lybia, who refused her water, and the peasants 
already metamorphosed, some half, and others entirely into 
frogs or tortoises, are placed on the edge of the different tablets, 
and throw forth water upon Latona in every direction, thus 
forming liquid arches of the most beautiful effect. The tablets 


VERSAILLES. 537 

are of red marble, the group of white marble, and the frogs and 
tortoises of lead. On each side of the pyramid, a column of 
water rises 30 feet and falls into the basin. Beyond are two 
flower-gardens, each of which has a small basin with a fountain 
adorned with two figures partly metamorphosed, to correspond 
with the fountain of Latona.—The Allee du Tapis Vert derives 
its name from a lawn which extends the whole length from 
the Parterre de Latone to the Bassin d’Apollon. It is orna¬ 
mented with 12 statues and 12 beautiful vases in white marble. 
—The Bassin d’Apollon, which, except that of Neptune, is the 
largest in the park, is situated at the extremity of the Allee du 
Tapis vert. The God of Day is seen issuing from the waters in 
a chariot drawn by four horses, and surrounded by tritons, 
dolphins, and sea-monsters. Beyond is the grand canal, ex¬ 
tending as far as St. Cyr (see p. 606), 186 feet wide by 4,674 
in length, with two cross branches measuring together 3,000 
feet in length. We now return towards the palace, taking the 
avenues on the right, and come to the Bassins de T Hirer et de 
VAutomne. That of Winter represents Saturn surrounded by 
children, who play among fish, crabs, and shells. This group 
is by Girardon. That of Autumn, by Marsy, presents Bacchus 
reclining upon grapes, and surrounded by infant satyrs.—The 
Jardin du Roi, near the Bassin d’Hiver, on the right, is laid 
out with much taste and judgment.—In front of the entrance 
to the Jardin du Roi lies the Bassin du Miroir; two columns 
of water rise from the midst. The Bosquet de la Reine is a 
delightful enclosed grove, which can only be entered with a 
cicerone of the park, and contains a great number of foreign 
trees and plants. In the centre is a superb granite vase and four 
antique vessels in bronze.—The Bosquet de la Salle de Bal, 
situated near the foregoing, is thus called from balls formerly 
given there by the court in summer.—The Quinconcedu Midi , 
near the Salle de Bal, to the north-west, is ornamented with 
eight termini, of which four stand round a grass-plot in the 
centre, and the other four beneath the chestnut trees.—The 
Bosquet de la Colonnade, at a short distance from the Quin- 
conce, is an enclosed grove, containing a magnificent rotunda, 
composed of 32 marble columns and pilasters of the Ionic 
order, united by arches supporting a cornice with while marble 
vases. Under each arcade are marble basins with fountains, 
and in the middle is a fine group of the Rape of Proserpine, by 
Girardon.— Bassin du Printemps et de Vtite. We now cross 
the Allee du Tapis Vert, and direct our course through the 
avenues on the side opposite. The fountains of Spring and 
Summer are situated in the first long avenue parallel to the 
Tapis Vert. Spring is represented by Flora,* before her is a 


538 


ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 


basket of flowers, and around are children who hold garlands 
and wreaths. Summer appears under the figure of Ceres, hav¬ 
ing a sickle in her hand, reclining among wheat sheaves, and 
encircled by children.—The Bosquet des Domes derives its 
name from two small rotundas crowned with domes, which 
were demolished in 1820. In the centre is an octagonal basin 
surrounded by a balustrade in marble. In the top of the ba¬ 
lustrade is a small channel, in which water Hows and escapes 
Irom distance to distance from shells. In the centre an immense 
column of water rises to the height of 70 feet. Above and 
around is a terrace, bounded by a second balustrade of mar- 
rne, ot which the plinth and pilasters are covered with 44 has- 
reliefs of ancient and modern arms used by the different 
nations of Europe, executed by Girardon, Mazaline, and Gue¬ 
rin. In this enclosure are eight statues of white marble.- 
Bassin d Encelade. A triangular space opposite the Bosquet 
des Domes contains this fountain, which is circular and sur¬ 
rounded by trees. The centre is occupied by a mass of rocks 
beneath which Enceladus the Giant is struggling for liberty' 
and still endeavouring to hurl rocks at heaven. The figure 
from whose mouth a column of water rises to the height of 
60 feet, was executed by Marsy. Water also issues from his 
hand and from parts of the rocks.-The Quinconce du Nord 
corresponds with that of the south, and is adorned with a 
large vase and eight termini in white marhle.— Bosquet des 
Bains d Apollon. Upon leaving the Quinconce by the prin¬ 
cipal avenue to the east, we see on the left an iron gale which 
leads to an agreeable enclosed grove, in the midst of which is 
an enormous rock, ot the most picturesque form. Here a 
gnil o leads to the palace of Tethis, whose nymphs are serving 
Apollo at the moment when he comes to repose in £ 
arms ofthe goddess. Two are preparing to bathe his feet a 
thud is pouring water into a basin; and three others stand 
behind, one ol whom braids his hair, and two others hold 
\essels with perfumes. Apollo and the first three nymphs are 
chefs-d ceuvre ol Girardon; the three others are by Begnaudin 
n the right and left of this magnificent group are two others’ 
the former by Guerin, the latter by Marsy, representing the 
Horses of the Sun watered by tritons. These three groups in 

Vei^Xf Sh 7 lhe i m08t perfect ensemUe of scu >Pluie at 
Xfw i ? and torreols of water, which escape from 

the pffl Pa, S ( ? the rock and form a lake at its foot, add to 

\nn non f he 1 sceue ; This fountain is said to have cost 
1,500,000 fr.-In descending this part of the garden towards 
he west we find the Bond Vert , a circulaAowfing 
surrounded by a hedge, in which are four verdant niches,’ 


VERSAILLES. 


539 


with statues after the antique.-The Bassin desEnfants, placed 
at the fourth angle of the Rond Vert, is decorated with a 
group ot six children, in lead, playing in a small island, in 
the centre. Two others are swimming in the water, while 
troin the midst of the island a column of water rises 48 feet. 
—Continuing from east to west, we enter the Salle de VEtoile 
s ,° galled Irom its three avenues, crossing each other.— Bassin 
de lObelisque. The avenue that traverses the dtoile leads to 
this fountain. The water issues from reeds round a column 
of water in the centre, and falls into an upper basin, from 
winch it descends into another by a number of steps forming 
as many cascades. The fountains are distinguished by the 
names of the Grandes Eaux and the Petites Eaux. The latter 
play m summer on the first Sunday of the month; but the 
former only on great occasions, which are always announced 
in the journals, t he Grandes Eaux present an exceedingly fine 
sight, and cost, it is said, trom 8 to 10,000 fr. every time they 
play. As they do not all play at once, the visitor can follow 
them from basin to basin up to that of Neptune, which is always 
the last. On these occasions, the multitude of persons attracted 
to Versailles is very great; but the most ample means of com¬ 
munication are afforded by the two railroads, and first-class 
places [diligences] may be secured beforehand both for going 
and returning. Visitor's should not remain late on account of 
the crowds at the railroads. 


Le Grand Trianon is a royal mansion, at the extremity of 
the Park of Versailles, built by Louis XIV. for Mine, de Main- 
tenon, alter the designs of J. H. Mansard. It is in the Italian 
style, consisting of one story, and two wings, united by a long 
gallery pierced by seven arcades, and fronted with magnificent 
coupled Ionic columns and pilasters in Languedoc marble. The 
wings are ornamented in a similar manner. It is separated 
from the avenue leading to it by a fosse in masonry. The 
visitor is first introduced to the apartments of Madame Adelaide, 
sister of the king, which occupy the left wing, and present 
little remarkable. The last room of the suite is the Salle des 
Aides de Camp de Service, giving entrance to the peristyle , 
adorned with coupled Ionic columns, which connects the two 
wings, and looks both into the garden and court. This leads 
to a circular Corinthian hall, adjoining which is the billiard- 
room, with portraits of Louis XV. and Marie Leczynska of Po¬ 
land in their youth. Next is the Salon de Eamille, containing 
several paintings and portraits, and an adjoining saloon for 
private conversation with the king. Adjoining this is a room 
with,a circular basin of malachite of extraordinary size, rest¬ 
ing on a tripod of or-moulu, presented to Napoleon by the 


840 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 

Emperor Alexander, on the occasion of the treaty of Tilsit* 
. The Salle-d-w,anger is entered next, consisting of a gallery 
160 feet in length, and full of remarkable paintings by Roger, 
Thomas, Bidault, Johannot, etc. By another chamber the vi¬ 
sitor is introduced to the chapel, recently constructed by 
Louis Philippe. The wainscoting is of oak; there are a few 
good paintings, and an admirable Assumption copied from 
Prudon in enamel adorns the window. The library, and the 
apartments of the Duke and Duchess of Nemours, lead the visitor 
back to the billiard-room and peristyle already mentioned. Here 
begin the apartments of the King and Queen. The Salon de 
laReine contains two portraits more of Louis XV. and Marie Lec- 
zinska. The Cabinet de la Reine leads to the Royal bedroom, most 
richly furnished and gilt. The hangings and curtains of the alcove 
are of crimson velvet, and a gorgeous balustrade separates it 
10 m the chamber. Next comes the Salon des Glaces, an ele¬ 
gant apartment lit by four windows, and adorned with a pro¬ 
fusion of mirrors. The Cabinet de Travail du Roi, and his 
private library, with some minor apartments, close this suite. 
The decorations of these apartments are richer than those of 
the first suite, which are white and gold. The private apart¬ 
ments of the King were also those of Napoleon, and are 
p ainly furnished. The garden of the Grand Trianon is laid out 
in a style similar to that of Versailles, and contains several 
ne fountains, the chief of which is the cascade, in Carrara 
marble. There are many excellent pieces of sculpture in va¬ 
rious parts, and among them two portraits of Louis XV., and 
Maria Leczinska, in allegorical groups, by Goustou. The 
grounds in the rear are laid out in groves cut into labyrinths. 

v!v t- Tmnon was alwa y s a favourite residence of Louis 
XIV., Louis XV., and Louis XVI., as a retreat from the pomp 
and ceremony of Versailles; Napoleon also frequentlyresided 
m it, and made a direct road from thence to St. Cloud. The 
servants who show these apartments, being mostly ohong 
s anding in the service of the Court, communicate many in¬ 
teresting historical details, partly from their own experience 
under the Empire, the Restoration, etc., and partly derived 
from local tradition. J 

Le Petit Trianon, situated at one extremity of the garden of 
the Grand Tnanon, forms a pavilion 72 feet square. It consists 
of a ground floor and two stories, decorated with fluted Corin¬ 
thian columns and pilasters crowned by a balustrade. The in¬ 
terior is ornamented in a simple but tasteful style. The first 
floor consists of an antechamber, dining-room (in which are 
he Four Seasons painted by Dejuinne), billiard-room, draw¬ 
ing-room, boudoir, the walls of which are covered with ara- 


VERSAILLES. . 54/J 

besques, the bed-room hung with blue silk, where may be 
remarked two ostrich’s eggs adorned with miniatures by Bou- 
chel, and, lastly, the cabinet de toilette, containing the time¬ 
piece of Louis XV. The second floor is inhabited by domestics. 
The Duchess of Orleans has the use of tins villa at present. The 
garden, which is very beautiful, is laid out d I’Anglaise, and 
contains some choice plants and trees. It is extensive, and has 
a tine piece of water, on the banks of which is a Swiss village, 
erected by Marie Antoinette. In another part of the garden is 
a small and beautiful theatre, formerly used by the court, and 
recently redecorated, and which should be particularly asked 
for by the visitor, since it is exeedingiy well worthy of being 
seen, and almost always omitted to he shown by the guides. 
This mansion was built for Mme. du Barri, by Louis XV., who 
inhabited it when attacked by the contagious disease of which 
he died. Louis X\ 1. presented it to the queen, under whose 
directions the gardens were laid out. 

The Grand and Petit Trianon, are only to be seen with a 
ticket, which is to he had by applying by letter to M. Vlnlen - 
dant de la Lisle Civile, No. 9. Place Vendome. 

The Town of Versailles is bisected by the Avenue de Paris, 
which divides it into the Quartier of Notre Dame, to the north* 
and of St. Louis to the south. Two other avenues, called Route 
de St. Cloud and Route de Sceaux, branch off from the Place 
d’Armeson either side of the Avenue de Paris. On proceeding- 
down the rue Hoche, in the Quartier Notre Dame, the visitor 
will first remark the simple Doric facade of the Protestant 
church, w here regular service is performed by a clergyman of 
the Established Church of England. Farther on is the Place 
Hoche, an octagon, in the centre of which stands a fine bronze 
statue of General Hoche, a native of the town, who distinguished 
himself in the troubles of La Vendee. The Church of Notre 
Dame, built by Mansard in 1084, fronts the rue Hoche. Its 
facade is composed of the Doric and Ionic orders, and is flanked 
by two small lowers. The interior is Doric, and cruciform, 
with a nave and aisles, and lateral chapels, in one of which is 
a fine monument, representing St.Bemy baptizing king Sicam- 
bre. There is also a curious picture of the Flemish school, the 
subject of which is the Virgin teaching the Saviour to read, 
whilst Joseph is busy planing a hoard. The rue Duplessis 
runs parallel to the Rue Hoche, and bisects the market-place, 
where the Halles, lour buildings enclosing a square, will be 
remarked for the neatness of their design. In this street, at 
the corner of the fine avenue called Boulevard de la Reine, is 
the railway station of the Right Bank ( Rive Droite ). The op¬ 
posite corner is occupied by the hospital, in which the Chapel 

4G 


542 


ENVIRONS OP PARIS. 


of St. Paul deserves attention. The College Royal stands in 
the Route de St. Cloud, enclosing a court laid out in walks; 
opposite the entrance is the front ot the Chapel, consisting of 
; four Ionic columns, supporting a sculptured pediment. This 
college was erected in 1766 by Queen Maria Leczinska, has a 
good Cabinet of Natural History, and about 500 pupils. On this 
side is also a villa formerly belonging to Madame Elizabeth, 
sister of Louis X^., and a small theatre adjoining the palace. 
In the Quarlier St. Louis, the Route de Sceaux is crossed by 
the Avenue de la Maine, where the railway station of the Left 
Bank (Rive Gauche) is situated. At the intersection of the rue 
Royale and rue d’Anjou is a fine monument to the Abbe de 
l’Cpee, well known for his zeal in behalf of the deaf and 
dumb. Around are four low uniform square buildings enclos¬ 
ing as many courts, called the Quatre Paves, one of which is 
used as a market-place. An old fountain occupies the centre 
of another of them. The rue d’Anjou will lead the visitor to 
the Cathedral Church of St. Louis, built by the last of the Man¬ 
sards in 1743 ; (1) a line edifice with a front two stories hi fr h, 
with Doric and Corinthian coupled columns supporting a pedi¬ 
ment. On the sides are two low square towers, with buttresses 
at the angles, adorned with Corinthian pilasters. The interior 
is cruciform, with a nave, and aisles surrounding both nave 
and choir. The aisles are formed by arched piers, between 
which are Ionic pilasters. The ensemble has an’ imposin'* 
effect. The transepts and lateral chapels contain some good 
paintings. In the western transept is an Adoration of the 
Shepherds, of powerful effect, by Restou. Further on in the 
chapels of the choir will be seen St. John the Baptist, by La- 
treille; St. Louis, by Lemoine; the Virgin presented in the 
Temple, by ^ ermont; Christ walking on the waves, by Fauchet • 

S hV ,1Cen ! ^ aul ? Poaching, by Heim; and the conversion 
of Clovis, by Delaval. Some of the confessionals are remark¬ 
able foi excellent and elaborate carving.—From hence the rue 
des Grangers leads to the Grand Commun, already mentioned 
(see page 52°), near which is the public library, established in 
the building formerly called the Hotel des Affaires titranqeres 
It contains nearly 50,000 volumes, most of them choice edi¬ 
tions proceeding from the libraries of Louis XVI. and the Count 
de Provence, alterwards Louis XVIII. It is open to the public 
daily from 9 to 3 o’clock, except Sundays and festivals. It is 
also closed from Aug. 20 to Oct. I. To the library is attached 
a small museum. The Hotel de la Guerre, contiguous to the 
above, is remarkable as the place where the vast military un- 

(l) Although built in 1743, it is worthy of remark that its consecra 
tion only look place on the mh of November, 1843 . consecra 


VINCENNES. 543 

dertakings which rendered France so powerful under LouisXIV. 
were discussed and resolved on. In the rue St. Francois is the 
famous tennis-court, celebrated for the oath taken by the Na¬ 
tional Assembly, which was the signal of the Revolution. 
South"of the town and the palace is a vast sheet of water, called 
Piece cles Suisses, from its having been formed by the Swiss 
guards of Louis XIV. It is 2,100 feel in length by 720 in breadth. 
To the east of the Piece des Suisses, which the route de Crest 
separates from the park* is the potager, or fruit and kitchen 
garden, of the palace, 28 acres in extent, and formed into divi¬ 
sions by terraces and walls. Contiguous to the potager is the 
beautiful and picturesque English garden of the Hotel de Tel- 
lier, formed by the Count de Provence, afterwards Louis XVIII. 
but now belonging to a private individual. A considerable 
number of foreigners, including many English families, have 
chosen Versailles for their residence. (1) The air is salubrious, 
but colder than at Paris. The streets are wide and clean, and 
in the summer nothing can be more delightful than its nume¬ 
rous walks; in the winter, the town has a deserted and melan¬ 
choly aspect. It possesses a few manufactories, and has three 
annual fairs. Races take place here in June, on the Plaine de 
Satory, south ot the town. It is in contemplation to have a 
second meeting in October. 

VILLETTE (la), a large town, or rather suburb of Paris, 
outside the Rarriere de Panlin, contains 10,000 inhabitants, 
and is bisected by the Canal de l’Ourq, which here forms the 
Bassin de la Villette (see p. 123). The eastern part is the Petite 
Villette, remarkable for an immense corn-magazine called 
Entrepot des Bleds. The building consists of seven stories, and 
an arm ol the canal passes under it for the purpose of loading 
and unloading the ships. Each story consists of avast hall, 
filled with every species of grain, flour, etc., in sacks or in 
heaps. Trap-doors communicate with the canal below; the 
goods are raised by the aid of a steam-engine of 12 horse 
power, which communicates motion to live double windlasses 
in the uppermost story. On crossing the canal, the visitor 
finds himself in the Grande Villette. Here, directly opposite to 
the Entrepot, is the Church of St. James and St. Christopher, 
with an elegant Corinthian facade. The interior consists of a 
nave, separated from the aisles by six fluted Doric columns on 
either side; the choir is semicircular; its cupola is painted in 
fresco with the seven Cardinal Virtues; on the lateral walls are 

(1) The best hotels at Versailles are the lldtel des Reservoirs and 
Hdiel de France. Their position close to the palace is convenient, and 
the accommodation they offer to the casual or permanent visitor is 
excellent. 






bii ENVIROMS OF PARIS. 

the martyrdoms of the two patron saints. The live windows 
of the choir are adorned with figures of sacred personages in 
stained glass. Other decorations are in progress in various 
parts of the church, which well deserves a visit. The baptismal 
font and the pulpit are in white marble and of tasteful design. 
On either side of this church are two neat buildings for tcoles 
Primaires. 

VINCENNES—is a village about a league east of Paris, cele¬ 
brated for the chateau and forest which have existed here 
from the year 1137. At that time Louis le Jeune built a country- 
seat, and more lhan a century later St. Louis frequently resided 
in it, and administered justice, it is said, under an oak in the 
forest. In 1337, Philippe de Valois demolished the ancient 
building, and laid the foundations of the present, which was 
completed by his successors. Henry V., King of England, died 
at Vincennes, in 1422. Louis XL enlarged and embellished the 
chateau, which was bis favourite residence. During the rei°n 
of that cruel and superstitious prince, about the year 1472, the 
donjon of Vincennes became a stale prison. Charles IX died 
here in 1574. In the reign of Louis XIII., Marie de Medicis 
built a magnificent gallery, and Louis XIII. commenced two 
large buildings to the south, which were finished by Louis XIV. 
In 1G61, Cardinal Mazarin died at Vincennes. The Duke of 
Oi leans, when regent of the kingdom, continued to live in the 
Palais Royal; and in order to have the young king, Louis XV., 
near him, he fixed his majesty’s residence, in the first year of 
his reign (1715), at Vincennes instead of Versailles, till the pa¬ 
lace of the Tuileries could be prepared. After that period the 
castle was used as a state prison, and the celebrated Mirabeau 
was confined in it from 1777 to 1780. In 1804 , the unforlunate 
Duke d Enghien, having been arrested in Germany, was shot 
here by order of Napoleon, on the 20th March, and buried in 
the southern ditch of the castle. His body was disinterred in 
181G, and placed under a magnificent monument erected to his 
memory in the chapel. Prince Polignac and the other ministers 
of Charles X. were confined here after the Revolution of 1830- 
and at present the Duke of Montpensier occupies apartments 
in it. The chateau forms a parallelogram of large dimensions- 
round it were formerly nine towers, of which eight were de¬ 
molished in 1818 . The principal entrance is to the north 
through a heavy buttressed rectangular tower, with pointed 
windows, and remnants of Gothic decorations. The donjon or 
keep is a square tower with turrets attached to the corners 
situated to the west, and in the centre of a square fortified 
court, with round watch turrets at the angles. It is now used 
partly as a powder-magazine, and partly as a prison- it is 


VINCENNES. 545 

ascended by a winding staircase of 240 steps in the south¬ 
eastern turret, and the magnificent view it presents of the sur¬ 
rounding country and a part of Paris is well worth the trouble; 
a good telescope will be found useful. Opposite to this, in 
the large court, stands the chapel, called la Sainte Chapelle 
a fine building of the 16th century. It is one of the latest speci¬ 
mens of pointed architecture remaining in France, and in plan 
closely resembles the Sainte Chapelle of Paris; it has two stone 
spires to the south, and another to the north-west; its pointed 
windows, of beautiful tracery, are canopied externally, and 
flanked with elegant pinnacles. The interior consists of a nave 
and polygonal choir, lit by five lofty and narrow pointed 
windows, adorned with beautiful stained glass by Jean Cousin, 
in which the monogram of Henry II., the letter H with the 
double crescent for Diana of Poitiers, bespeaks the period of 
their execution. Under a fine canopied quadripartite roof, 
resting upon four clusters of columns with pedestals, and ap¬ 
proached by steps, stands the altar, beautifully executed in 
white marble. The table rests upon a series of nine pointed 
arches in front, and two lateral, with turns; in the spaces 
stand the statues of the Apostles, some of which are dread¬ 
fully mutilated. To the left of the altar is a colossal monument 
to the memory of the Duke d’Enghien, executed by Deseine. 
On a plinth of grey marble rests a basement with plain consoles 
at the corners; on the summit is the statue of the Duke stand¬ 
ing, in the act of receiving consolation from Religion, who 
stands beside him with her cross; below to the right, is Crime 
raising her dagger, while to the left is France weeping. The 
two latter statues are spirited; the two former appear of rather 
tame execution. The visitor will remark the curious brackets 
adorning the piers, and the bold obtuse-pointed arch over the 
entrance. Upon the whole, the exterior of the chapel is much 
richer than the interior, contrary to rule. The Salle d'Armes 
occupies the eastern side of the principal court, north of the 
chapel. A staircase flanked and adorned with trophies of 
pikes, fire-arms, etc., leads to a long room on the first floor, 
lit by 17 windows on either side, and filled with two rows of 
lofty racks with muskets, besides cuirasses, swords, and pistols, 
ingeniously arranged in imitation of lustres, pedestals, etc. It 
contains 60,000 muskets, 25,000 pistols, and 40,000 sabres, with 
various other arms,all kept in beautiful order. At the furthest 
end is a bust of Louis Philippe. To the east of the principal 
court is another spacious court, with large arsenals, magazines, 
and stables. The castle has for some time past been used as 
the central depot of artillery for the garrison of Paris, and 
has been put in a state of complete defence. Great altera- 


040 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. 

tions have lately been made in consequence of the fortifications 
of the capital. 

Two regiments of artillery and a battalion of infantry form the 
garrison. The public are admitted on Saturdays to view the 
interior, with tickets, obtained on application by letter to M. le 
Commandant de la Premiere Division Militaire, 1, rue de 
Lille, but great inconvenience is experienced from carelessness 
on the part of the employes in this respect. The forest is verv 
extensive, and is a favourite resort of the inhabitants of Paris 
and neighbouring villages. A mound and open space will be 
seen theie, south of the chateau, for artillery practice. 




DIRECTORY. 


AMBASSADORS, ETC. 

AT THE COURT OF FRANCE. 
[Hours of business from about n to i.] 

Austria and Parma , ambassador, 
2, rue St. Florentin. 

Baden, Bureau du Consulat, au Mi¬ 
nistere dcs Affaires Etrangeres. 

Bavaria, envoy extraordinary, mi¬ 
nister plenipotentiary, 3, rue Riche- 
panse. 

Belgium, ambassador, 97, rue de 
la Pepiniere. 

Brazil, envoy extraordinary, mi¬ 
nister plenipotentiary, 118 , rue de la 
Pepiniere. 

Denmark, envoy extraordinary, mi¬ 
nister plenipotentiary, 37, rue St. 
Dominique. 

Free Towns, resident minister, 6, 
rue Trudon. 

Great Britain, ambassador extra¬ 
ordinary and minister plenipoten¬ 
tiary, 39, rue Faubourg St. llonore. 

Greece, Bureau du .Consulat, au 
Ministere des Affaires Etrangeres. 

Hanover, envoy extraordinary, 
minister plenipotentiary, 16, rue 
Miromesnil. 

Hesse-Darmstadt,Hesse Electo¬ 
ral, Bureau du Consulat, au Mi¬ 
nistere des Affaires Etrangeres. 

Holland, envoy extraordinary, mi¬ 
nister plenipotentiary, 22, rue de 
Suresne. 

Lucca, charge d'affaires, 45, rue 
de la Victoire. 

Mecklenburg - Schwerin, Bureau 
du Consulat, au Ministere des Af¬ 
faires Etrangeres. 

Mecklenburg - Strelitz, charge 
I d’affaires, 35, rue du Faubourg St. 
Honore. 

Mexico, Bureau du,Consulat, au 
Ministere des Affaires Etrangeres. 

Nassau, charge d’affaires, 22, rue 
de Suresne. 

Portugal, envoy extraordinary, 
minister plenipotentiary, 37, rue de 
la Ville l’Ev£que. 

Prussia, ambassador, 86, rue de 
Lille. 


Homan States, charge d affaires, 
71, rue de Grenelle St. Germain. 

Russia, ambassador, 33, Faubour^ 
St. Honore. 

Sardinia, ambassador, 19, rue de 
Clichy. 

Saxony, envoy extraordinary, mi¬ 
nister plenipotentiary, 9, rue de (’Ar¬ 
cade. 

Spain, ambassador, 28, rue de 
Courcelles. 

Sweden, envoy extraordinary, mi¬ 
nister plenipotentiary, 74, rue “d’An- 
jou St. Honore. 

Switzerland, charge d’affaires, 9, 
rue Chauchat. 

Tuscany, resident minister, 61 , rue 
de Provence. 

Two Sicilies, ambassador, 105 bis, 
rue de Grenelle St. Germain 

United States, envoy extraordi¬ 
nary, minister plenipotentiary, 3, 
rue Matignon; Consul, 30 bis, rue 
de Rivoli. 

Wurtemberg, minister plenipoten¬ 
tiary, (3, rue de I’Arcade. 

Saxe Weimar, charge d’affaires 
Bureau du Consulat, au Ministere des 
Affaires Etrangeres. 

Turkey, ambassador, l, rue des 
Champs Elysees. 

ENGLISH NEWSPAPER. 

GALIGNANI’S MESSENGER, pub 
lished every day (Sundays excepted). 
Two editions appear, one at six in 
the morning, which is delivered soon 
after in Paris and its Environs; and 
the other at two in the afternoon 
(containing all the news received up 
to the moment of going to press), 
which is forwarded the same day to 
Paris, Provincial, and Foreign Sub¬ 
scribers. Terms .- A single paper, 
10 sous; a week, 3 fr.; a fortnight, 
6 fr.; One Month, lOfr.; 3 Months, 
28 fr.—Office, 18, rue Vivienne. 

The aim of this long-established Journal 
is to furnish to the reader, at a single view, 
the daily contents of the London and Conti¬ 
nental press, omitting no fact of interest of 
importance, and recording side by side the 









2 


DIRECTORY. 


opinions of every party. While a suitable 
prominence is given to the Parliamentary de¬ 
bates and all political subjects, the miscel¬ 
laneous topics required by the general reader 
likewise find ample space. The fullest infor¬ 
mation upon current events, and every pass¬ 
ing fact of the day, is faithfully recorded, 
with accounts of Judicial Proceedings, the 
Naval and Military Services, Commerce, the 
Arts, Drama, Sporting Intelligence, etc. 

PR1NCIP FRENCH JOURNALS. 

Le Moniteur Universel (the offi¬ 
cial Government Morning Journal), 
28 fr. a-quarter; Office, 6, rue des 
Poitevins. 

Journal des Debats (Moderate), 
13 fr. a-quarter Office, 17, rue des 
Pretres St. Germain l’Auxerrois. 

La Presse (Independent), 7 fr. a- 
quarter: Office, 131, rue Montmartre. 

Le National (Republican), 11 fr. 
a quarter; Office, 3, rue Lepelletier. 

Le Constitutionnel (Moderate), 
8 fr. a-quarter: Office, to, rue de 
Valois. 

Le Court.ier Francais (Moderate), 
7 fr. a-quarter; Office, 26, rue du 
Bouloi. 

Le Siecle (Republican), 8 fr. a~ 
quarter; Office, 16, rue du Croissant. 

L’Union (Legitimist), 13 fr. a- 
quarter; Office, 4, rue du Bouloi. 

La Reforme (Republican), 8 fr. a- 
quarter; Office, 3, rue J. J. Rousseau. 

Democratie Pacifique (Republi¬ 
can), 6 fr. a-quarter ; Office, 2, rue 
de Beaune. 

Assemrlee Nationals (Moderate), 

7 fr. a-quarter;Office, 20, rue Bergere. 

Le Peuple (Socialist), 6 fr. a-quar¬ 
ter; Office, 5, rue Coq-Heron. 

L’Univers (Clerical), li fr. a-quar- 
ler; 29, rue du Vieux-Colombier. 

Le Moniteur du Soir (Moderate), 

8 fr. a-quarter; Office, 22, rue Grange- 
Bateliere. 

La Patrie ( Evening Moderate 
Journal), li fr. a-quarter; Office, 
12 , rue du Croissant. 

La Gazette de France (Evening 
Legitimist Journal), 13 fr. a-quarter; 
Office, 1 2, rue du Doyenne. 

Gazette des Tribunaux (reports 
only Law Intelligence), 13 fr. a- 
quarter; Office, 2, rue du Harlay. 

Le Droit (reports only Law Intel¬ 
ligence), 8 fr. a-quarter; Office, 40, 
quai des Orfevres. 


LIST OF PARIS BANKERS. 

AhDOiNandCo.,64, rue de la Chaus¬ 
see d’Anlin. 

Baguenault and Co., 17, boulevard 
Poissonniere. 

BAUDONandCo.,i6, place VendOme 

Berthoud, 3 bis, rue Richer. 

Blanc (J. A-), Matthieu, and Co., 
23, rue St. Georges. 

Callaghan (Luc and Son), 40, rue 
Neuve des Mathurins. 

Carette (Firmin) and Minguet, 
26, boulevard des Italiens. 

Coppinger, 20, rue Louis le Grand. 

Daly (Malachy),8, place Venddme. 

Davillier (J. C.) and Co., 15, rue 
Cbauchat. 

D’Eichthal (Louis), 30, rue Basse 
du Rempart. 

Delamarre-Martin-Didier, 27, rue 
des JcOneurs. 

Delisle (widow Th.) and Co., 26, 
rue de la Chaussee d’Anlin. 

Durand (F.),30, rue Basse Rempart. 

Ferrere Laffitte, 1, rue Laffitte. 

Fould (B. L.) and Fould Oppen- 
heim, 22, rue Bergere. 

Greene (J. B.) and Co., 26, place 
St. Georges. 

Hottinguer, 17, rue Bergere. 

Laffitte andBLOUNT, 48, rue Basse 
du Rempart. 

Le Cointe, Des Arts, and Co., 26 , 
rue de Provence. 

Lefebvre (Jacques), and Co., 3 1, 
rue Joubert. 

Leiiideux aine, 45, rue Chariot. 

Leroux, 35 bis, rue de I’Echiquier. 

Mallet (Freres) and Co., 13, rue 
de la Chaussee d’Anlin. 

Marcuard (Adolphe) and Co., 40, 
rue des Petites Ecuries 

Martin o’Andre, 58, rue Provence. 

OniER and Co., 2, rue du Houssaye. 

Oppermann, 2, rue St. Georges. 

Perier and Co., 17, rue Laffitte. 

Pillet-AVill and Co., 70, rue de 
la Chaussee d’Anlin. 

Rothschild, 15 bis, rue Laffitte. 

Rougemont de Lowenberg, 18, rue 
Taitbout. 

Valois, 19, rue de l’Echiquier. 
EXCHANGE OFFICE. 

Mme Emerique, 32, Galerie Mont- 
pensier, Palais National, 

Informs the public that she gives the very 
highest exchange for bank bills and so¬ 
vereigns. 


directory. 


3 


LIFE INSURANCE OFFICE. 

West of England Life Assurance. 
Empowered by Act of Parliament. 
Chief offices :—in London, 20, Bridge 
Street, Blackfriars; in Edinburgh, 
Dublin, Exeter,Paris, and 400 County 
Offices in the United Kingdom. 

It enables one to raise money, secure a debt, 
or property, create an annual income, mar¬ 
riage-portion, settlement, legacy, annuity, 
jointure, or an endowment. It is applicable 
to all ranks, and the security it affords gives 
a moral independence. Insurances effected 
on reduced terms, without any extra charge, 
and for any period, and the profits divided 
among the assured every fifth year. This of¬ 
fice is full 10 per cent, lower than others. 
Prospectuses, giving every information, sent 
free to all parts of Europe by G. G. Bennis, 
the agent in Paris. Those who defer an in¬ 
surance for a visit to England may have it 
facilitated on applying at the office in Paris, 
80, rue de Ponthieu. 

ATTORNEYS, SOLICITORS. 

Blanchet, Pleader ("speaks Eng¬ 
lish), 12, rue Rougemont. 

Castaignet, Attorney, 21 , rue 
de Hanovre. 

Lawson, Solicitor, 4, rue St. FIo- 
renlin. 

Okey, Barrister and Chamber 
Counsel to Her Britannic Majesty’s 
Embassy, 49, Champs Elysees. 

Smith, 40, rue Basse du Rempart. 

TRANSLATORS. 

Gautier, 58, rue d’Anjou St. Ho- 
nore. French and English. 

Montucci, 9, rue d’Alger, German 
and Italian. 

ENGLISH CLERGYMEN. 

Rev.M. Cii amier, 17 , rue Madeleine. 

Rev. Dr. Hale, 129, Champs Ely¬ 
sees. 

Bev R.Lovett, 67, Champs Elysees. 
AGENTS. 

Almosnino, general commission 
agent, packs, forwards, and insures 
goods toall parts,i5&i.y,rueThevenot. 

Arthur, house and commercial 
agent, 7, rue Monthabor. 

Bennis, general agent. Advicegiven 
and instructions taken on any enter¬ 
prise, 80, rue de Ponthieu. 

De Bf.rnardy, i 3, boulevard de !a 
Madeleine (and in London) account¬ 
ant—Commercial and General Agent 


—Agent for the Medical, Legal, and 
General Mutual Life Assurance so¬ 
ciety, etc., for Bradshaw’s Railway 
Publications.—Debts recovered— 
Claims prosecuted—Compositions 
effected and Letters of Licence 
obtained.—Office for the sale and 
purchase of Annuities, Reversions, 
and every description of property. 

Genard, 32, rue Neuve de Luxem¬ 
bourg. Provides furnished and un¬ 
furnished Apartments, and under¬ 
takes the sale of property, commercial 
establishments, etc. 

BEST FURNISHED HOTELS. 

To most of lohich are attached Res 
taurants .— Wines, etc. 

Carriages, Horses, etc., maybe had. 

Bedford, Lawson’s, 34, rue de la 
Madeleine, and li, rue de l’Arcade. 
(A very excellent Hdtel.) 

Brighton, 30 bis, rue de Rivoli. 
Large and small apartments with or 
without Kitchens—Coffee-room. 

Bristol, 5, place Venddme. 

Canterbury, 24, rue de la Paix. 

Hollande, 16, rue de la Paix. 

Meurice, 42, rue Rivoli. 

M. B. Caillez begs to assure the nobility 
and gentry that no exertion shall be wanting 
to merit a continuance of their patronage. 
The great object he has in view is to give 
general satisfaction, by rendering his Hotel 
as comfortable as the residence of private in¬ 
dividuals. Apartments to be had by the 
night, week, or month. Carriages for town 
or travelling, on sale and hire. 

Paris, in, rue Richelieu. 

Princes, 109, rue Richelieu. (See 
view of ihis Hotel, a few pages fur¬ 
ther on.) 

Situated in the centre of all the wonders 
of Paris, it maintains worthily the high title it 
has assumed, under the superintendence of 
the proprietor. M. Privat, by the excellence 
of its appointments and management. This 
vast hotel has recently been greatly enlarged 
by the annexation of several houses, one part 
of which is specially destined for the recep¬ 
tion of families, and another for single gen¬ 
tlemen. at 3 fr.. 4 fr., and 5 fr. a-day, and 
offering every desirable comfort and accom¬ 
modation. Newspapers in all the European 
languages , and sumptuous table d’hote. 

Bhin, 4, place Venddme. 

Sinet, 52-54, rue du Faubourg Ss. 
Honore. 

Tp.rrasse, 50, rue Rivoli 

Victoria, 3, rue Chauveau La- 
garde. 

(A very comfortable private Hotel.) 


DIRECTORY. 


Wagram, 28 , rue Rivoli. 
Windsor, 38, rue Rivoli. 

RESTAURANTS AND CAFES. 

At those marked by a * breakfasts and din- 
ners are to be had; at all the others hot or 
cold breakfasts, or evening refreshments only. 

* Very, Palais National. 

* Fr'cres Provengaux, Palais Na¬ 
tional. 

* Restaurant Richard, 137 , Palais 
National, Galerie Valois. 

Oinners at this old-established house at 2 fr. 
—Consist of soup, three dishes, dessert, and 
half a bottle of Macon or Chablis wine.— 
Breakfasts at 1 fr. 23 c.—Fine old wines. 

Ccife de Foy, Palais National. 

Caff, de la Roionde, Pal National. 
Cafe Lemblin , Palais National. 

Cafe d Orleans, Palais National. 
Estamj.net Hollandais, 50, Palais 
National. 

Cuff de la Rfgence, place du Palais 
National. 

Cafe Vfro-Dodat, galerie Vero- 
Dodat. 

'Caff Delorme, rue St. Honor*! 
Passage Delorme. 

Caff des Provengaux, 277, rue St. 
Honore. 

CaffGodet, 8, rue de Rivoli. 

Cafe Duphot, rue Duphot. 
Poissonnerie Anglaise, rue de Ri- 
V0 J 1 ’ c °[ ner °f Place des Pyramides. 
™ , ,'. Madeleine, place de la 
Madeleine. 

Cafe Foi, corner of boulevards 
and rueChaussee d’Antin. 

i Welder, 20 bis, boulevard 

des Jtaliens. 

* rirginie, 17, rue de la Paix. 
Cafe Anglais, boulevard des Ita- 

liens. 

liens ^ ^ PariSj bou,3Var d des Jla- 
Itaiiens ^ Iulhouse ' 2 » boulevard des 

* r ai A°Z I) a ,, ce, 1 , rue Laffittc. 

Cafe Cardinal, rue Richelieu, cor¬ 
ner of boulevards. 

Ralieif Torloni > 12 , boulevard des 

Cafe Durand, 1 , boulevard des Ca- 
pucines. 

* Caf6 Vachette, 32 , boulevard 
Poissonniere. 

Cafe Montmartre, t, boulevard 
Montmartre. 


Cafe Frangais, 2, rue du Faubourg 
Poissonniere. 

Caff Casirnir, 14, boulevard Pois¬ 
sonniere. 

Cafe Bonne-Nouvelle, 36, boulevard 
Bonne-Nouvelle. 

Cafe Vfron, boulevard Montmartre • 
Caff du Vaudeville , 29, place de la 
Bourse. 

Cuff de la Bourse, Place de la 
Bourse. 

* Caffdu Commerce, corner of rue 
Vivienne. 

Caff Favier, 3, Quai d’Orsay. 

Cuff Voltaire, Place de I’Oddon. 
Caff Procope, rue de I’Ancienne 
Comedie. 

' Caff Dagneaux, 8, rue de l’An- 
cienne Comedie. 

ENGLISH RESTAURANTS. 

ARuowsMiTii,6,rueNeuveSt.Marc. 
British Tavern, 104, rue Riche¬ 
lieu, near the Boulevard. 

This establishment is remarkable for the 
elegance of its saloons, its tranquillity, and 
its garden. 

Bradford, 4, rue Ville PEvfique. 
Byron, 2 , rue Favart. 

Hancock, 6, rue Favart. 

John Bull, 2, rue des Pyramides. 
Lucas, 14 , rue de la Madeleine. 
Broom, 10 , rue d’Aguesseau. 

PHYSICIANS AND SURGEONS. 

Ciiermside (Sir R.), 1 bis, rue 
Taitbout. 

Cloquet (Jules), surgeon, 2 , rue 
Grange-Bateliere. 

Davison, 17, rueNeuve des Capu- 
cines. 

Dubois (Paul), physician and ac¬ 
coucheur, 12 , rue Monsieur-le-Prince. 

Gunning, surgeon, 1 4, rue St. Flo- 
ren tin. 

Higgins, physician and accou¬ 
cheur, 30, rue de Rivoli. 

Olliffe, 2, rue St. Florentin. 
Scratchi.ey, 24 bis, rue du Col y sde. 
Verity, 5, place de la Madeleine. 

SURGEON DENTISTS. 

Desirabode, 154, Palais National, 
or 19 , rue de Valois. 

TIis artificial teeth are remarkable for their 
solidity and brilliancy. 

William Rogers, 270 , rue St 
Honore, Surgeon Dentist, of London. 

The Art of the Dentist, having attained 
a coitam degree of perfection, remained for 


DIRECTORY. 


a long time stationary, the professors of it 
having believed that it could not be carried 
any higher. This error, however, has been 
destroyed by William Rogers, who has every 
year made known to us some new discovery 
contributing to its improvement. The first 
has been his Osanores Teeth , which are in¬ 
serted and fixed without hooks and ligatures, 
and without the necessity of extracting the 
Roots of the decayed natural Teeth. These 
are particularly recommended for their light¬ 
ness to elderly or feeble persons, whose 
mouths are irritable and cannot bear any 
strong pressure or tension, either from springs 
or plates, or hooks. After numerous essays, 
more or less fortunate, William Rogers had 
succeeded in giving to his teeth the utmost 
transparency combined with a solidity which 
will stand any proof; and, under the name of 
Dents Osanores indestructibles, has exhibited 
the Master-Piece of the dental art. These same 
leeth, now made with unequalled prompti¬ 
tude and precision, are nevertheless exlremely 
moderate in price. William Rogers has not 
been less happy in the results of his researches 
in the other branches of his art. His cement 
lor stopping the teeth, which any one may 
himself apply, is another precious invention 
and attainable by every body from the mo¬ 
deration of its price. This cement, or inal¬ 
terable enamel, is easily applied, without 
pain, adheres immediately to the tooth, and 
causes all the indications of caries at once to 
disappear. His Eau-Rogers for embalming 
the teeth when they have become too painful 
to be stopped is again another of those be¬ 
neficent secrets which cannot be too highly 
appreciated. Each Bottle of these two ar¬ 
ticles is sold at 3fr. at the inventor’s, No. 270, 
Rue Saint-Honor6, and by all the principal 
pharmaciens. 

M. Seymour, 8 , rue Castiglione. 

Patented for his mineral succedaneum for 
decayed teeth. 

M. George, 36, rue de Rivoli. 

Receives from 10 to 4. 

CHEMISTS, APOTHECARIES. 

Peter Pariss, 26, place Vcnddme. 
Roberts and Co, Chemists to the 
British Embassy, 23, place Venddme. 

English and American Chemists 
\nd Apothecaries, 2 , rue Castiglione 
3 doors from rue Rivoli.) 

Genuine drugs and chemicals, every kind 
of patent medecine. 

N. B. Address of all the French and En¬ 
glish physicians. 

BOARDING-SCHOOLS. 

BOYS. 

De Calonne, Professor at the 
Royal College of Henry IV. Rue 
.Veuve Ste. Genevieve, No. 2. 

Takes only 8 pupils, who receive every 
possible care and attention, and who take 
‘heir meals with the family of the Professor. 
Terms 2H)0 fr. a year. 


Hale(Rcv. Dr.), 129, Champs Elv- 
sees. 

Murray, 25, rue d’AngouIemc St. 
Honore. (A day school.) 

GIRLS. 

Bachellery (Mme), 50 and 52 bis, 
rue du Rocher. An excellent esta¬ 
blishment. 

Dutois (Mmes.), 15, rue Marboeuf 
Le Maire (successor to Mme. Dau- 
bree), 9, rue du Harlay, au Marais. 

Shanahan (Mrs.), 21 , Avenue Cha¬ 
teaubriand. 

PROFESSORS OF MUSIC. 

Barraud (Mile.), 28, rue Monlha- 
bor.— (Piano.) 

Belin (Miss), 8, rue Chabannais. 
(Piano.) 

PAINTERS AND DRAWING- 
MASTERS. 

CoNSTANs(T.eon), 22, rue des Bou¬ 
langers St. Victor.— Flowers.) 

Dagnan, 35, rue St. Georges, mem¬ 
ber of the Legion of Honour; Land¬ 
scape in oil and pencil. A day class 
for ladies. 

Fauquet (Mme), 53, rue de I’Echi- 
quier.Portraits,Figures,etc. in pastel. 

Meuret, 87, rue Neuve des Petits 
Champs. — (Miniature.) 

DANCING-MASTERS- 
Lenfant, 18, rue de la Michodiere. 

PROFESSORS. 

ENGLISH.— Halpin, 48, rue cles 
Martyrs. 

FRENCH. — Doijville, 18 , Avenue 
St. Cloud, barriere de I’Etoile. 

Frene (M.), graduate of the fa¬ 
culties of Letters and Sciences, 
rue de Rivoli. At home from 2 to 3. 

Gerard, 5i,rue de Luxembourg. 
M. G. speaks English and is first rate 
for beginners. 

Gachet (Mme.), l, rue de Grelry. 
Laurence, 342, rue St. Honore. 
Gautier, 58, r. d’Anjou St. Honore. 
Hamel, 7, rue Montesquieu. , 
Leonard, Professor at the Ecole 
Municipale Francois I., 51, rue de la 
Chaussee d : Antin. 

G ERMAN.— OLLENi>ORFF(Dr.H.G.), 
author of a new method adapted to the 
German, French, Italian, and Eng¬ 
lish languages, adopted by the Uni- 


6 


DIRECTORY. 


versily of France, 67, rue de Riclie- 
lieu. 

Lijdger, 7, rue Miromesnil. 

MATHEMATICS, GERMAN, and 
ITALIAN.— Monttjcci (Dr.), profes¬ 
sor of German at the School of Arts 
and Commerce, and Author of Ma¬ 
thematical works in Italian, and re¬ 
ceived by the University for English 
and German, 9, rue d’Alger. 

SPANISH.— Alvarez, 5, rue de 
Lancry. 

BATHS. 

De Sr. Aignan, 57, rue St. Aignan. 

Neothermes, 48, rue de la Victoire. 

De Tivoli, 102 , rue St. Lazare. 

Turcs, 94, rue du Temple. 

, SWIMMING SCHOOLS. 

Ecole Nationals de Natation, at 
the Pont de la Concorde. 

Ecole de Natation, Henri IV., at 
the Pont Neuf. 

Ecole de Natation de l’H6tel 
Lambert, quai Belhune—(for Ladies). 

OPTICIAN. 

Chevallier, mathematical-instru¬ 
ment-maker and optician to the late 
King, 15, Place du Pont-Neuf, facing 
the statue of Henry i V. 

Formerly Tour de 1’IIorloge,Palais de Justice. 

M. Chevallier, member of several literary 
and scientific societies in France and foreign 
countries, and author of the Conservateur de 
la Vue , and other works, makes with the 
utmost precision every species of optical, ma¬ 
thematical, mineralogical, and other instru¬ 
ments. With him originated the improved 
glasses for the assistance of the sight, parti¬ 
cularly the opera-glasses called Jumeltes, to 
which has been added the application cen- 
trees, in consequence of the adaptation of a 
simple piece of mechanism, which admirably 
fits them to the precise distance of the two 
eyes from each other. M. Chevallier has 
lately executed, from the plans of Professor 
A. Fisher, of Moscow, a new microscope, 
which its inventor calls the Pancratic Micro¬ 
scope, on account of the different degrees to 
which it may be made to magnify. M. Che¬ 
vallier has been distinguished by several me¬ 
dals and prizes for various inventions and 
i improvements with which he has enriched 
science.. Ilis establishment, founded by his 
family in 1740, has been conducted by him 
personally since 1796.—M. Chevallier has no 
other d4pot either in Paris or the Departments. 

Chevalier (Charles), 1 58, Palais 
nalionaj. 

Son arid successor of Vincent Chevalier, 
first constructor in France of the Achromatic 
Microscopes. Daguerreotypes with combined 


glasses, and Talbotypes. Manufacturer of 
Optical, Physical, Marine, and Geographical 
Instruments, Double Lorgnettes, etc. Re¬ 
ceived a Gold Medal at the National Exhi¬ 
bition. 

CLOCK AND WATCH MAKERS. 

Wurtel, Nos. 38 lo 42, Galerie 
Vivienne. 

Gold and Silver Watches and Musical Boxes 
from his own manufactory at Geneva; Fancy 
and Bronze Clocks, Picture Clocks with 
chimes and music, Time-pieces with large 
dials for halls and offices ; travelling clocks 
and alarums, of all sorts—English spoken. 

JEWELLER, GOLDSMITH. 

Fossin, Morel and Co. 62, rue Ri¬ 
chelieu, Paris —Depot in London, 7, 
New Burlington street, Hanover 
Square; having no connection what¬ 
ever with the house of Morel and Co. 
of Paris. 

This old-established and highly respectable 
house has been long known for the taste and 
elegance of its workmanship, as well as for 
its rich assortment of diamonds and jewels of 
every kind.—Diamonds and precious stones 
purchased. 

DiDiOTand Bablin,166, Galerie Va¬ 
lois, Palais National, ala Houle d'Or. 

A constant display of the richest jewelry- 
in the newest and best taste.—A great choice 
of diamonds and all other stones for mount¬ 
ing according to order, for which they have 
first-rate workmen in their employ—Stones 

cut—Precious stones bought or exchanged_ 

English spoken. 

WINE-MERCHANTS. 

N. Johnston and Sons, of Bor¬ 
deaux. House at Paris, rue Louis le 
Grand, 19. 

Clarets, Sherry, Madeira, and Port wines. 

Joubert (A.), Cite des Ilaliens, i, 
rue Lafiitle. 

Sole d4pot in Paris of the Claret of Messrs. 
Barton and Guestier of Bordeaux ; of the 
Champagne of Ruinart of Rheims ; of the 
Burgundy of Marey at Nuits; and of the Hock 
of Deinhard and Jordan of Coblentz. 

PURVEYORS. 

Corcellet, uu Gourmand , 103 and 
104, Palais National. 

Provisions of all kinds.—Wines from the 
most ordinary to the rarest and richest. Li¬ 
queurs and all the productions of the Colo¬ 
nies. Also supplies from England and other 
countries.—Orders for France and abroad 
executed.—An immense sale of Coffee, so 

mixed as to ensure strength with flavour._ 

This House has existed for more than half 
a century in the highest repute. 


DIRECTORY. 


7 


ENGLISH PASTRY-COOKS. 

Colombia-, 4, rue de Luxembourg. 
Guerre, 36, rue de Rivoli. 

CAMBRICS, ETC. 

L. CiiAPRONand Dubois, ii, late 7, 
rue de la Paix, a la Sublime Porte. 

Tlie only House for the exclusive sale of 
Cambric Handkerchiefs, plain or embroi- 
dered, with Cyphers, Crowns, Armorial Bear- 
ings, etc., m the first style.—N. B. The prices 
are fixed. 

MILLINERS. 

Alexandre and Beaudrant, 41 , rue 
Neuvc St. Augustin. 

Aimee-Henry, is, rue Basse du 
Rempart, opposite rue de la Paix. 

Folding Bonnets extremely light for tra¬ 
velling,25 fr.—Velvet Bonnets, 20 fr. Coloured 
velvet, 25 fr. Poult de soie and crape Bonnets, 
from 12 to 15 fr. Superior from 18 to 20 fr. 
A large assortment of straw Bonnets, etc , at 
Manufacturers’ prices.—Cleaning, 1 fr. Tur¬ 
bans, caps, etc. 

LACE. 

Faerique Francaise et Belge, 57, 
rue Vivienne, or Ti, boulevard Mont¬ 
martre. 

^ French and Belgian Manufacture. Shawls, 
Scarfs, Gowns. Mantelets, etc., etc. Lace in 
Silver and Gold. Manufactory of application >• 
Ue Bruxelles. 

DRESSMAKER. 

Aimee-Henry, 18, rue Basse du 
Rempart, facing rue de la Paix. 

Orders punctually executed on very moderate 
terms. Plain Dresses, 10 fr. Dinner and Even¬ 
ing Dresses, 12 fr. Ball Dresses, 15 fr. Mourn¬ 
ing. etc. 

ARTIFICIAL FLOWERS. 

Dubouloy, 6 , rue Menars. 

Feathers and superfine artificial flowers 
for Ladies’ bonnets, caps, etc., and aU kinds 
of head-dresses. 

PERFUMER. 

Guerlain, ii, rue de la Paix. 
GLOVES. 

Privat, 41, rue Neuve St. Augustin. 

Formerly rue de la Paix. 

This old-established and highly-reputed 
house, to which M Tambour-Ledoyen has for 
many years been the successor, is still the ge¬ 
neral resort for gloves of every description, 
from their acknowledged beauty and other su¬ 


perior qualities, which have been rendered 
still more pre-eminent by a new and great 
improvement in the cutting out and stitching 
of its gloves, rendering them more strong and 
durable, and for which invention a patent has 
been obtained. — Also a large assortment of 
handkerchiefs, fancy aprons, fans, fichus, cra¬ 
vats, and other similar articles of taste and fa¬ 
shion, for gentlemen as well as for ladies. 

TAILORS. 

Petersen and Schick, 6, rue de la 
Paix. 

Patentees, from London, noted for elegance 
of cut, workmanship, and moderate prices. 

WAISTCOATS. 

Blanc, 159, PalaisNalional, Waist- 
c-oat-maker to their Royal Highnesses 
the Princes and the Dukes of Wur- 
temberg, at the sign of Jean de Bour¬ 
gogne. 

IIATTER. 

Servas, 69, rue Richelieu. 

This house, for 30 years distinguished for 
the superior fashion and finish of its hats, 
has invented an Elastic Hat, which adapts 
itself admirably to the head, without render¬ 
ing it uncomfortable, and is in the best style. 

BOOT AND SHOE-MAKER. 

Lecerre, 43, rue Neuve Vivienne. 

Has always on hand an extensive assort¬ 
ment of gentlemen’s Boots and Shoes, Cloth 
Boots, Pumps, etc., of the most fashionable 
make. English spoken. 

CARPETS AND TAPESTRY, 

OR STUFFS FOR HANGINGS 
AND FURNITURE. 

Requili.art, Roussell, and Ciioc- 
queel. Manufactory at Turcoing 
(Nord); Warehouse in Paris, 20 , rue 
Vivienne. 

This is one of the most important houses 
in Paris, and is distinguished for the richness 
of its productions, their great variety, and 
the moderation of their prices. 

STATIONERY. 

Marion, i 4, Cite Bergere, rue du 
Faubourg Montmartre, Paris. 152 , 
Regent Street, London. 

The moderate prices of the fancy arti¬ 
cles of this establishment give an incon¬ 
testable proof of the progress which Marion 
is indefatigably making in the improvement 
of his stationery. In his Magazines will be 
found every species of letter-paper in use, 
either in the mercantile or fashionable world. 


8 


DIRECTORY. 


BRONZES, ETC. 

Deniere, 15 , rue Vivienne, Officer 
of the Legion of Honour, President 
of the Tribunal des Prud’hommes. 

This first-rate house, which furnishes the 
emperor of all the Russias, and several fo¬ 
reign courts, has been honoured with se¬ 
veral of the first prizes at the exhibitions 
of the progress of the useful arts in France, 
and may without presumption be said to 
enjoy a European reputation. 

In its extensive show-rooms, in the rue Vi¬ 
vienne, there is at this time an unrivalled dis¬ 
play of works in bronze-gilt, in the various 
styles of ancient Greece, of the renaissance, or 
revival of the fine arts, of Louis XIV. and 
Louis XV. 

Deniere undertakes, in his branch, all that 
is required for the decoration of splendid sa¬ 
loons, or for the ornamenting of the table. 

The manufactory, which is adequate to all 
that can be demanded of it, is situated 
9. rue d’Orleans, an Marais. 


FANCY ARTICLES, CURIO¬ 
SITIES, ETC. 

Giroux ( Alphonse) and Co., 7, rue 
du Coq St. Honore. 

Public and permanent exhibition. Ancient 
and modern Bronzes ; Toilet and Travelling 
Cases; Children’s Playthings. Games, etc.; 
Mechanical Works ; Marriage and other Pre¬ 
sents ; Cabinet Work ; Objects in Crystal and 
Porcelain ; Paintings, Drawings, and every 
thing connected with the Fine Arts ; Writing 
and Drawing Paper; Medallions and Gilt 
Frames for Miniatures, Paintings, etc. 

PORCELAIN-WAREHOUSE. 

Laroche, 162 , Palais National. 

Distinguished for his table services with 
crests. 

BED AND TABLE LINEN. 

Fricker, 12 , rue de Castiglione. 

Lets out bed and table linen. V11 the linen 

is mangled. 



GIHAXJT, BROTHERS, PRINTSELLERS, 

BOULEVARD DES 1TALIENS , 5. 

XEW VIEWS OF PARIS, by Benoist and Jacotlet, including a general 
lio W T°h f if?« n ikp a 80 y ersa,llt ' s ’ St. Cloud and Fontainebleau, small fo- 
L,V h /T ^ 0, ; rec ' aud best executed collection of views of 
aris. 1 oi ty plates at lfr. 25c., or 5ofr.; colored, 3fr., or i20fr. 

ENVIRONS, by G. Muller and Prevost; viz s Lake 
f, nd J? al . hs of Enghien, and chalets surrounding the lake. Garden of 
the Chateau-Rouge. The Hippodrome. Marly. Chalets of the Pelit- 
Jr r, |hA°n 1 16 1 lieatres - The Jardiu d’hiver. Chateau des Fleurs. Bal 
or 6ofr° Pera ’ CtC ‘ Twenly P lalesal lfr* 25c., or 25fr.; colored, at3fr. 

PROMENADES IN PARIS AM) ITS ENVIRONS, by Jacottet and 
Benoist. Forty two views, folio. Each 2fr. 50c.; colored, 6fr. 

FETES AND CEREMONIES OF THE FRENCH REPUBLIC OF 1848. 
12 fr^ 50 c rCaU and FlfchoL Ten P lales - Each 25c., or complete’ 

COSTUMES OF THE GRAND DUCHY OF BADEN AND THE BOR¬ 
DERS OF THE RHINE, by Valerio. Printed in two tints thirty six 
views, small folio, at lfr. 25c., or 45fr. complete. 

NEW COLLECTION OF COSTUMES AND HABITS IN THE PYRE¬ 
NEES, by h erogio Irom Lagarigue. Twelve plales, printed in two 
tints, at tfr. 25c., or I5fr. complete. 

FORTY COSTUMES OF THE PYRENEES, by Pingret. Colored, 40fr. 
or lfr. each. D ’ 


SOUVENIRS OF THE PYRENEES, by Jacoltel, or collection of the 
most picturesque sites of the watering establishments and environs, 
viz : Faux Bonnes, Cauteretz, La Raielliere, St.-Sauveur, Circus of 
Gavarm, Bagneres de Bigorre and Luchon. Fifty plales, folio, at lfr., 
or 50fr. complete. 

SOUVENIRS OF THE PYRENEES, SECOND SERIES, containing: 
Bridge of St.-Andre de Cubzac, bridge of Bordeaux, views of the pas¬ 
sages St.-Sebaslien, St.-Jean de Luz, Bayonne, Biarrits, Chdtcau de 
Pau, Plain of Jurancon, other views of Faux Bonnes, Gavarni, Ba¬ 
reges, etc. Fifty plates, at lfr., or 50 fr. complete. 

VOYAGE TO SOUTHERN RUSSIA AND THE CRIMEA, BY HUN¬ 
GARY, WALACHIA AND MOLDAVIA, executed under the direc¬ 
tion of M. A. Demidofl, dedicated to His Majesty Nicolas 1st, contain 
ing military and civil habits, dances, views, etc., etc. One hundred 
plates, folio, text by Sainsoa. — Printed in India paper, 200fr.; each 
plate separate 3fr. 

PICTURESQUE AND ARCHAEOLOGICAL EXCURSION IN RUSSIA, 
by Havre, Hambourg, Lubeck, St.-Petersburg, Moscow, Nijni-novo- 
gorode, Yaroslaw, and Kasan. Executed under the direction of Pd. A. 
Demidoff. One hundred plales, drawn from nature by A. Durand, 
folio, tinted, 200fr. Each plate separate 3fr. 

SOUVENIRS OF BADEN BADEN AND ITS ENVIRONS. — Forty 
views drawn from nature and lithographied by J. Jacottet, folio, GOfr., 
or each view lfr. 50c. 

ALGERIA. — Divers works, views, costumes, scenes and habits, etc. 

ALBUMS, lithographied by H- Vernet, Charlet, Bellange and RalTet. 

STUDIES IN LANDSCAPE DRAWING, by Hubert, Calame, Coignel 
and Jacottet. 

STUDIES IN FIGURE DRAWING, by Ferogio. Valerio and Julien. 

PORTRAITS OF THE CELEBRATED MEN OF THE DAY , etc. 

CARICATURES, etc., etc. 


CURTIS ON NERVOUS DEBILITY 


AND 


GENERATIVE DISEASES. 

M J | CJS T .^ UB , LISHED ’ in FRENCH, ENGLISH, and GERMAN, a 
Medical Work, in a sealed envelope, price 4fr. 50c., and sent secure 
from observation by the authors, post-paid, illustrated with nume¬ 
rous Anatomical Engravings. 

MANHOOD : the Causes of its Premature Decline, with Plain Di¬ 
rections for its perfect restoration; addressed to those suffering from 
nervous debility, impotency, and syphilis ; followed by observations 
on the treatment and cure of those impediments to marriage, and various 
urino-genital diseases by which the most shattered constitution may 
be restored and reach the full period of life allotted to man; illustrated 
with cases by J. L. CURTIS, Consulting Surgeon. No 7, Frith-street 
Soho-square, London. 

The 40 000th just out. Sold also in Paris, by Charpenlier, No is 
Galene d Or eans, Palais National; in Liepsic, by M. Orthaus; in Cal- 

V ° n L A lZgy ’ L ?,". Bazaar ; in Madras, at the Office of the 

United Service Gazette; in Brussels by M. Geruset, Libraire. 

OPINIONS OF THE PRESS. — “Curtis on Manhood. ” 

It develops the fearful shoals on which a large proportion of hu¬ 
man happiness is wrecked, and furnishes a chart by which (hey may be 
avoided and escaped. Fortunate fora country would it be, did its youth 
put into pratice the philanihropic and scientific maxims here laid 
down-one cause oi matrimonial misery might then be banished from 
our land , and the race of the enervate be succeeded by a renewal of the 
hardy, vigorous spirits of the olden time. (Chronicle.) 

. Their long experience and reputation in the treatment of these 
painful diseases is the patient’s guarantee, and well deserves its im¬ 
mense circulation. (Times.) 

“There is no member of society by whom the book will not be found 
man ’’ "^SunT '° ^ lhe re,ation of P ar <?nt, preceptor, or clergy- 

THE BRITISH LIBRARY, 

A reprint of the best new English works. Novels, History and 
\ oyages, at a very low price in weekly numbers of 64 octavo 
pages m 2 colums, large type, containing the matter of about 
one volume of the London edition. 

Every work will be paged separately, so that the subscriber 
will be able to classify each work, and bind it accordingly and 
at the end of the year general Title pages will be forwarded 
tree of charge. 

Price of subscription : Paris, 3 months, 13fr. ; 6 months, 25fr • 

to J n M th ^V 50fr - ~ 0ae fra ? c extra I )er quarter if sent free 
throughout France, and two francs out of France (local postage 
excepted). All subscriptions date from the beginning of a Quar¬ 
ter m order to ensure complete works 

Thus, for from 50fr. to 58fr. a-year, the subscriber will pos¬ 
sess at least 50 volumes of the choicest works published in 
Luutlon in the course of the year which would cost at least 
0)0 to 500 francs. To book-clubs, and foreigners acquainted 
Willi or studying English, this collection must also be highly 
valuable. b * 




GENERAL STEAM NAVIGATION COMPANY’S 

Favourite and powerful Steam-Ships, having elegant and 
extensive Accommodation for Passengers, run regularly 
between LONDON and ' ° 


HAVRE 

BOULOGNE 

CALAIS 

OSTEND 

ANTWERP 

HAMBURG 

BOTTERDAM 


also between 

HAVRE, DIEPPE, and BRIGHTON. 


The Rotterdam, Antwerp, and Ostend Steam-Ships are in 
direct Correspondence with the superior and fast Packets be¬ 
longing to the Dusseldorf Steam Company for the Lower and 
Middle Rhine, by which Passengers booking on the Rhine direct 
to London obtain a considerable advantage in the Reduced 
Fares, and have the privilege of sojourning at any intermediate 
places on the route for which the Ticket is taken. 

Passengers going to England are booked throughout from 
PARIS TO LONDON, at REDUCED RATES, and are recom¬ 
mended to apply to Mr. F. Spiers, 13, ruede la Paix, Paris, 
to secure Berths on board the steamers, or to be booked 
throughout at reduced fares. 

AGENTS. 

DIEPPE : Mr. G. Chapman. — BOULOGNE : M. Delaltre. — 
CALAIS: Mr. A. Spiers. 

BELGIUM—OSTEND: Mr. R. Saint Amour.-BRUSSELS : Mr. 
W. Middleton, 92, Montagne de la Cour.—ANTWERP: Mr. 
C. Brequigny. 

ROTTERDAM: Mr. Wm. Smith, Mr. P. A. Van Es, Messrs, de 
Cock and Barlem. 

RHINE : the Offices of the Dusseldorf Steam Company for the 
Lower and Middle Rhine. 

AIX-LA-CHAPELLE : Mr. J. A. Mayer, Editor of the “Gazette” 
Library, No. 10G9. 

FRANCFORT on the Mein: Mr. Thomas Fletcher, at Messrs. 

Gogel, Kock, and Co. 

HAMBURG: M. C. Delaval. 

The General Steam Navigation Company’s Offices in 
PARIS: 13, rue de la Paix. 

BRUSSELS: 92, Montagne de la Cour. 

COLOGNE: 13, Frederick William Street. 

LONDON: 71, Lombard Street; 37, Regent Circus, Piccadilly; 
and 35, Leadenhall Street. 



FROM TRIESTE. 

TO GREECE, 

Every alternale Tuesday. 

To Lutracki, touching at Corfu, Patras, Lepanto, Voslizza—from 
Lutracki overland across the Isthmus of Corinth to Ca!amaki,and from 
thence by Athens to Syra. 

* Convenient means are established for quick conveyance across the 
Isthmus of Corinth. 

TO THE LEVANT, 

Every alternate Tuesday. 

Via Corfu and Syra to Athens, Nauplia, Alexandria, Scio-Cesme, 
Smyrna (Rhodes, Cyprus, and Beyrout), Metelin, Capo Baba, Tenedos, 
Dardanelles, Gallipoli, Salonica, Constantinople, Tneboli, Synope, 
Samsun, Trebisond, Burgas, Varna, Tulcia, Galalz, and Ibraila. 

TO ALEXANDRIA, 

A Steamer leaves Trieste for Alexandria direct on the 25th of each 
month, in correspondence with the Calcutta and Bombay line of Steam¬ 
ers. In addition (o this direct route there is an indirect communica¬ 
tion between Trieste and Alexandria. 

VIA SITKA, 

Every alternate Tuesday. 

TO DALMATIA, 

To Cattaro, touching at Lussin Piccolo, Zara, Sebenico, Spalato, 
Lesina, Curzola,and Ragusa. Every Monday. 

TO I STRIA. 

Every Wednesday to Pola, touching at Pirano, Umago, Cittanova, 
Parenzo, and Rovigno. Every Saturday to Fiume, touching at Pirano, 
Umago, Cittanova, Parenzo, Rovigno, Fasana, and Pola. 

NOTICE. 

Arrivals from Greece and the Ionian Isles are admitted at Trieste to 
tree pratique. Those from the Levant are accompanied by Health 
Officers, and the quarantine is performed during the voyage, so that 
passengers are now at liberty to proceed on shore, immediately on ar¬ 
rival at Trieste, provided the Vessel has a clean Bill of Health. 

Every information relative to Freight and Passage may be learned 
on application at the Austrian Lloyd’s Agents in LONDON, 137 , 
Leadenhal 1-street, and at PARIS, at the Office Univorsel de Rensei^ne- 
ments, 27, Place de !a Bourse. 


PRINTED BY CRAPELST, RUE DE VAUGtRARD, 9. 






BY Mr. WILLIAM ROGERS.—1 volume 8vo, price 7 fr. 50 c. 

The celebrity of Mr. William Rogers, the Dentist, of 270, rue 
Saint Honore, is too well estahl shed to require any new eulo- 
giums; but we cannot refrain from reproducing those which have 
been passed upon his latelv published work, the Encyclopedic du 
Dentiste, by the principal French Journals: 

The Quolidienne says: 

‘‘ M Rogers has become , by every rightful with tlieir beauty, without the necessity of 
claim, le Dentiste <J la made. Ills Osanores having recourse to the old painful method of 
Teeth are absolute prodigies. Fixed without extracting tha old roots.” 
hooks or ligatures, they combine solidity 


The Presse: 

“ Our most celebrated Dentist. M W. Ro- of important interest to mothers of families, 
gers , has just published a book which has and indeed to tho world at large. The Ency- 
highly exoited the attention of the men of tlon^tlie du Dentiste is in fact one of the most 
science in medicine , and is at the same time useful works we know.” 

The Debats: 

“ Poeme des Osanores.— The eminent Rogers cures every evil he attacks.” 


The Nenure Francais: 


“ The success of the Encyclopedic du Den¬ 
tiste, by M. Rogers, daily increased to such 
an extent that, notwithstanding its high 
price. ISfr , the first edition was quickly 
exhausted A second edition has now been 
brought out, and. in order to render it acces¬ 
sible to all purses, the author lias reduced 
the price to 7 fr. 80 e. This disinterested 
concession does the greatest honour to M Ro¬ 
gers, and must he inevitably beneficial to the 


public, by contributing to the diffusion among 
all classes of a work the merit of which is 
universally acknowledged. The Eneye'ooedie 
du Dentiste is a summary of the doctrines of 
that distinguished practical man, its author, 
and of the opinions of his predecessors. 
Dentists men of the world, mothers of fami¬ 
lies, and indeed persons of all ages and con¬ 
ditions, w-ill in this work find a sure and inva¬ 
luable guide.” 


The Moniteur: 


“ The Encyclopedic du Dentiste, by the ce¬ 
lebrated Rogers, was a work too good and 
too neeessary to admit of its first edition re¬ 
maining any time without being bought up 
with avidity. Therefore no one need he as¬ 
tonished when informed that, notwithstanding 
its high price of 18 fr.. the whole of this first 
edition has vanished as if by enchantment. 
M. Rogers, preferring fame to fortune, has 


reduced the prioe of his excellent work by 
one half ; and in another week we shall, no 
doubt, have to announce the publication of a 
third edition. In this hook the mysteries of 
the Osanores Teeth are so lucidlv revealed, 
that all the fears hitherto inspired by the idea 
of artificial Teeth must he dissipated before 
this superior process.” 


The Gazette des Hopitaux: 


11 The Encyclopedic du Dentiste, bv W. Ro¬ 
gers, has at last made its appearance The 
able author thereby proves himself to be as 
great a Dentist in theory as he was known to 
be in praotioe. Fifteen years of study have 
enabled him to bring forth the most com¬ 


plete work on Dentition. In it the secret of 
the Osanores Teeth is unveiled, and hence¬ 
forth all the apprehensions inspired by artifi¬ 
cial Teeth will fall before the exposition of 
his system.” 


Tho Modes Parisiennes: 


“ Ladies, he not alarmed at the word En¬ 
cyclopedic I M. Rogers is a man of the world, 
and has stripped science of its thorns, and all 
its technical jargon, and presented it before 
you in its natural and attractive state. What 
subject can be more interesting to you than 
that of which he treats? Your most valuable 
jewels are not those you plaee in your hair 
or wear around your necks They are those 
which shine with such lustre betwen your half 
open lips. These pearls, nevertheless, are 
liable to change, to lose their brightness, and 
even to disappear entirely—and then farewell 
to beauty! Such a disaster, however, can 
never happen to those who read the work of 


M. Rogers, and follow its precepts. After 
reading many curious details on the manner 
In which the ladies of ancient days ma¬ 
naged their teeth, Ihey will find counsels that 
will enable them to preserve their own in 
all their freshness and beautv. to repair all 
their defects, and to replace those which may 
be lost without any of tho tortures, pain, or 
disgust which are inflicted upon them by or¬ 
dinary Denti'ts, and often in vain. The Osa¬ 
nores Teeth . the invention of which, has 
rendered M. Rogers so renowned, yield m no 
one point to nature. They are even supenop 
in both brilliancy and solidity.” 



DIRECTORY 
















































































































































































































































































INDEX 


Abattoirs. . • 

Abattoir des cochons. 

—de St. Denis. 

—de Grenelle. 

—de Montmartre. 

—de Popincourt. 

—du Route. 

—de Villejuif. . 

Abbaye aux Bois. 

Abbey of Port Royal 
Abelard and Heloi'se, fune¬ 
ral monument of . . 280 

Absorbing Wells. . 254, 355 
Academie des Beaux-Arls, 73, 
370. 


PAGE 
, 115 
11G 

, 513 
. 355 
. 21G 
277 
200 
438 
3G0 
82 


—Franchise. . . 72, 37G 

—des Inscriptions et Belles 
Leltres. . . 72, 376 

—de (’Industrie Francaise. 91 
—de Medecine . 74, 76, 401 

—de Paris. . . ,75 

—RoyaledeMusique. 219, 457 
—des Sciences.' . 72, 37G 

—des Sciences Morales et 
Politiques. . . 73, 376 

Acts.67 

Administration of Paris, 

Civil. 51 

—Communal and Depart¬ 
mental. . . 51 

—of Customs. . . .53 

—of Departmental Taxes. 51 
—du Mont de Piete . .105 

—of the Police. . . 54 

—of the Post Office . . 53 

—of Public Instruction. . 52 
—of Roads and Public 


Works. . . .52 

Adult schools. . . .84 

Advocates. . . .49 

Agents de Change. . .107 
Allee des Veuves. . .189 
Ambassadors. . . .67 

—Residences of. . 1,547 


Amusements, places of 

public.454 

Anatomy, Amphitheatre 
of. . . 101 , 401, 453 

—Cabinets of. 400, 443, 452 


PAGE 

Ancient Colleges. 395 , 400, 406, 

407, 408, 409, 410, 412, 418, 
420. 

—Measures and Weights 
of France. . . 22 n. 

Anne of Austria, vow of. 433 
Annuaire du Bureau des 
Longitudes. . . 74, 425 

Antiquarians, Streets in¬ 
teresting to. 269, 362, 


13, 


408 

69 

50 

124 

124 

124 
480 
123 
493 

125 
125 


Apartments 
Appraisers. 

Aqueducts. 

Aqueduct d’Arcueil 
—de Belleville . 

—de Buc. 

—de Ceinlure . 

—de Marly. 

—de St. Gervais. 

—de Romainville. 

Arc de Triomphe de 
Place du Carrousel. 

—de l’Eloile. . 

—de St. Denis. 

—de St. Martin. 

Archbishop’s Palace, de¬ 
struction of. . 

Archives du Royaume. 

Area, culli vation, etc., of the 
Department of the Seine. 38n. 

Argot.257 

Armenian Persuasion. . 95 
Arrest for debt. . . 66 

Arrival in France, direc¬ 
tions upon. . . . 1 

—at Paris, directions upon. 1 

Arrondissements of Paris. 39,53 
—Description of Paris by. 146 
Arrondissement, first. . 146 


la 
. 155 

142, 192 
. 249 
. 255 


313 

269 


—second, 
—third. . 
—fourth. . 
—fifth, 
—sixth. . 
—seventh. 
—eighth. . 
—ninth. . 
—tenth. . 
—eleventh. 


212 

233 

238 

248 

258 

267 

277 

292 

333 

381 





566 


INDEX. 


PAGE 

—twelfth. . . .405 

—of Sceaux. . . .53 

—of St. Denis. . . .53 

Arsenal. . , . .321 

Artesian Well of Crenelle. 126, 
355. 

—of Jardin des Plantes, 452n. 
Asile Royal de la Providence 104 
Assize, court of. . . 48 

Association de Travail 
pour les Pauvres. . . 105 

—Paroissiales de bienfai- 

sance.105 

Asylum, Blind. . 287, 357 
—Deaf and Dumb. . .423 

—Lunatic.’ ". 439, 479, 481 

—Orphan. . . 286, 426 

Ateliers de Sculpture. . 352 
Athenee des Arts. . . 89 

—Royal de Paris. . . 88 

Athenes, Fa Nouvelle. . 216 
Auctioneers. . . .50 

Auclion-rdoms. . 222, 235 

Avoues.49 

Bagatelle. . . .476 

Baggage, Passengers'. . 29 

Bagnes, or bulks. . . 62 

BainS. \ . . .126 

—ambulants. . . .127 

—Chinois. . . .213 

—de la Cite. . . .317 

—d’Enghien (Sulphureous) 483 
—Neothermes. . . 206 

—St. Sauveur. . . . 257 

—de Tivoli. . . .204 

—Tubes.258 

Bakehouse for all the Hos¬ 
pitals of Paris. . 101, 453 
—for the garrison of Pa¬ 
ris.191 

Balls, court, diplomatic, viii 
—public. . . . 469 

—Chateau Rouge. . . 470 

—ClOserie des Lilas. . 469 

—Grande Chaumi&re. . 469 
—Enghierf. \ *. . 483 

—Jardin de Paris. . . 469 

—Mabille/ ’. *. .470 

—Montesquieu. . . 469 

—Prado. . *. * . 469 

—Salon de Mars. °. . 469 

—Ranelagh. . . 471, 477 


PAGE 

—Masked. . . . 472 

Ball, first public one given 
in Paris. . . 472n. 

Bank of France. . 107, 248 

—Savings. . . .106 

Bankers, list of. . . 548 

Banlieue of Paris. . .110 

Barometrical scales. . 28 
Barracks. . . 142, 218, 258, 

276, 284, 322, 334, 362, 385, 
400, 406, 407, 519. 

Barriers. . 

Barriere du Trone. 

—d’Arcueil. 

Basin of Paris. 

Bassin de la Villelte 


Bastringues. 

Baths. 

Batignolles. 

Bazars, 

Beaujon, Chapelle. 
Hopital. 


121 , 


143 

283 

429 

37 

123 

472 

126 

213 

236 

198 

198 


Beaumarchais,residence of 289 
Beer. . . . lion. 

—Brewery, extraordinary 438 
Benevolent Institutions. 96 to 
105, 142. 

—Societies. . . , G2 

Bercy, village of. . 284, 478 
Berny, Croix de. . .474 

Berri, Due de, where as¬ 
sassinated. . , .222 

Bibliotheques of Courts of 
Justice.. . . 295n. 

—of Ministries. . . 87 

—Particulieres. . . 87 

Bibliotheque de V Arsenal. 322 
—de l’Artillerie. . . 365 

—de la Cour de Cassation. 87 
—de la Chambre des De¬ 
putes. . .. . .341 

—de la Chambre des Pairs. 388 
—du Commerce. . . 221 

—du Conservatoire des 
Arts et Metiers. . 87, 263 
—du Conservatoire de Mu- 
sique. . . .83, 87 

—de l’Ecole de Droit. . 411 
—de l’Ecole de Mecfecine, 402 
—de l’Ecole des Mines. , 394 
—de l’Ecole Polytech¬ 
nique . . .80, 87 




INDEX. 


567 


, , . PAGE 

•—oe FEcole des Ponts et 
Chaussees. . . .87 

—de Sle. Genevieve. .411 

—de l’lnstitut. . . .375 

—des Invalides. . . . 345 

—du J aid in des Plantes. 451 
—du Louvre. . . .172 

—Mazarine. . . .375 

—du Ministerede la Guerre 3G2 
—du Ministere de laMarine 42 
—de rObservatoire. . 87, 425 
—du Palais Royal. . .178 

—Royale. . . 87, 141, 222 

—du Seminaire St. S 11 I- 

pice. . . 87, 93, 385 

—de la Sorbonne. . 75, 39G 

—de la Ville. . . . 332 

—de Versailles. . . 542 

Bicelre, Hospice de. . 479 

—Nouveau. . . 59, G2 

Bievre, the. . 38, 437, 480 

Rills of Exchange. . . G7 

Birds, Collection of. 87, 448 


Bird-market. . 

. 382 

Births, deaths, and marri- 

ages in Paris. 

. 39 

—in France. 

39n. 

Bituminous pavement. 

. 118 

Blind, Hopilal. . 

. 287 

—School. . 

. 357 

Boarding-houses. 

. V 

Boarding-schools. . 

. 84 

Boats, Steam. . 

. 7 

Bceuf Gras. 

. 473 

Boileau, burial-place 
370 

Of. 301, 


Boisde Boulogne. 191, 196, 47G 
—de Romainville. . 477, 499 
—de Vincennes. . 477, 546 
Boites aux leltres. . .11 

Bornes-fonlaines. . .126 

Botanical Gallery. . . 451 

—Garden. . 391, 393, 443 

Boulangerie Generate 101, 453 
Boulevard des llaliens. . 219 
—du Temple. . . 120, 258 

Boulevards. . .119, 476 

Boulogne. . . .506 

Bourbon, melancholy death 
of Duke of. . . 337, 480 

Bourse, la. . . 107, 220 

Bread, how sold. . 24 Gn. 


PAGE 

Bridges, see Ponts . . .122 

—Venetian. . . 277, 289 

British Embassy. . . 203 

—Residents, laws affecting. 62 
—Charitable Fund. . . 1 02 

—Free Schools. . . 103 

—Currency reduced into 

francs.20 

—Medical Institution. . 103 

Budget for 1846. . . 43 

Buildings, Public. . .139 

—Private, remarkable. . 144 
Bureau d’admission dans les 
hopitaux et hospices. 97, 317 
—de rinscription des Ou- 

vriers.55 

—des Longitudes. 73, 425 

—des Letlresau Rebut. . 13 

—de Verification des Poids 
et Mesures . . .55 

Bureaux d’Arrondissement 
pourlettres. . . .11 

—de Siirete. . . .54 

—de Bienfaisance et de Se- 
cours a domicile. . .102 

Butchers. . . . .115 

Butte de Chaumont. . . 253 

Cabinets of Anatomy. 400,402, 
445, 453 

—of Drawings and Engrav¬ 
ings. . 1 . 167,' 178, 228 

—of Medals and Antiques. 226, 

372 

—of Mineralogy. 87, 393, 448 
—ofModels. . . .380 

—of Natural History. 87, 402, 
445, 542 

—Private, of Pictures, 
Statuary, etc. . . 86 

Cabriolets. ... 7 

Cafes.16 

Cafe de France. . . 236 

Caisse d’Amortissement et 
des Depots et Consigna¬ 
tions.109 

—Diocesaine. . . .93 

—d’Epargne. . . .106 

—de Poissy. . . .51 

Calvin, residence of. . 406 
Calvinist worship and 
churches. . . .93 

Canals.122 



568 


INDEX. 


PAGE 

Carmes Billettes, les. . 94 

Carnival.472 

Carpet Manufactory. . 437 
Carriages, etc. ... 7 

—duly on. 35 

number of public. . 9 n. 

Carriers. 68 

Carrousel, Place du. . 155 
Casernes, see Barracks. . 142 
Catacombs. . . . 429 

—continuation of. . . 439 

Cattle Market, etc. 114,400, 
480, 497, 499 

Cave Generate of Hospitals. 101 
Cemeteries. . i 27, 128 h. 

Cemetery de Ste. Catherine. 453 
—de Montmartre. .127,213 
—du Mont Parnasse. 127, 392 
—du Pere La Chaise. 127, 279 
—de Picpus. . . .284 

Centigrade scale turned 
into Fahrenheil. . . 28 

Cercles or Clubs. . .18 

Chamber of Commerce. . 107 
—of Deputies. . .40 

—Palace of the. . . 337 

—Of Peers. . . .40 

—Palace of the. . . 385 

Chambre des RequOtes . 29G 
—grande, du Parlement. 296 
Champs de Mars. . . 354 

ChampsElysees. . 188, 475 
Chapelle de Beaujon. . 1 98 

—Sainte.299 

—Evangelique.. . . 94 

--Expiatoire. . . . 203 

Chapel ofSt. Ferdinand. . 196 
—Marbceuf. . . 94, 192 

—of the Luxembourg. . 389 
Charcoal, Depots ot. 1 16, 251 
Charenton, Hospital of. . 481 
Charges d’Affaires. resi- 


„ d’Affaires, _ 

dences of. . . 547 

Charitable Fund, British. 102 
Charitable Institutions. 96 to 
105, 142 

—Society of St. Francis de 

^ Regis.104 

Charlemagne, prayer- 
book of. . . .172 

Charlotte Corday, room 
she stabbed Marat in. . 403 


PAGE 

Chaumiere,la. . . 393, 469 

Chateau d’Eau du Boule¬ 
vard St. Martin. . . 255 

—de la Muette. . . 476 

—de laPlace Palais Royal. 179 
Children, number sent to 
Foundling Hospital. . 428 
Chronological table of 
kings of France. . .145 

Churches. . . .138 

—Architectural Styles of. 1 38 
—Episcopal British. . 94 , 202 
—Greek . . . .95 

—Protestant. 94, 202 , 216, 323, 
362. 

—Romish. . . .94 

Church of the Abbaye aux 
Bois. .... 360 
—St. Ambroise. . .277 

—St. Antoine. . ... 287 

—the Assumption. . . 182 

—des Carmes Billettes. . 276 
—Ste. Clotilde. . . 362 

—St. Denis. . . .290 

—Ste. Elisabeth. . . 258 

—of England. . . .94 

—Episcopal. . . .202 

— St. Etienne du Mont. . 415 
—St. Eustache. . 138, 237 
—Evangelique de la Re¬ 
demption. . . .219 

—St. Ferdinand. . . 1 98 

—St. Francois d’Assise. . 271 
—St. Francois Xavier. . 361 
—Ste. Genevieve. . .412 

—St. Germain l’Auxerrois. 240 
—St. Germain des Pres. 367 
—St. Gervais. . . 138, 325 

—Greek. 95 

—des Invalides. . . 346 

—St. Jacques du Haut Pas. 422 
—St. Julien le Pauvre. . 316 
—St. Laurent. . . . 250 

—St. Leu and St. Gilles. . 266 
—St. Louis d’Antin. . 204 
—SI. Louis en File. . . 318 

—the Lutheran. . , 276 

—la Madeleine. . 139, 206 

—Ste. Marguerite. . 139, 285 
—St. Medard. . . . 435 

—St. Merry. . . 133 , 267 

—des Missions Etrangeres. 361 


INDEX. 


569 


PAGE 

—St. Nicolas des Champs. 264 
—St. Nicolas du Chardon- 

net.407 

—Notre Dame. . . 138, 303 

—Notre Dame des Blancs 
Manteaux. . . .274 

—Noire Dame de Bonne 
Nouvelle. . . . 266 

—Notre Dame de Lorette. 214 
— the Oratoire. . . 239 

—St. Paul and St. Louis. . 323 
—Petits Peres. . . 234 

—Panlhemont.. . . 362 

—Proleslant. . . .216 

—St. Philippe. . . 199 

—SI. Pierre de Chaillot. . 192 
—St. Pierre Gros Caillou. 352 
—St. Roch. . . 139, 231 

—de la Redemption. . 219 
—St. Severin. . 138, 317, 404 

—the Sorbonne. . . 395 

—St. Sulpice. . . 139, 382 

—Swiss.94 

—St. Thomas d’Aquin. . 363 
—the Val de Grace. . 433 

—St. Vincent de Paule. . 216 
—the Visitation. . . 323 

Circle, division of the. . 28 

Circulating Libraries. . 18 

Circumference of Paris. . 37 

Civil Administration of Pa¬ 
ris. . . . .51 

—Government of. . . 40 

—List . . . .43 

—Rights. . . . .65 

Clergy of France. . 95 n. 

Climate of Paris. . . 37 

Clisson, Connetable, street 
where he was waylaid. 292 
Closerie des Lilas. . . 393 

CIosSl. Lazare. . .218 

Cloud, St., Railroad to 6, 505 
—Vehicles to. . . 9 

Clovis, his conquest of Pa¬ 
ris. . . . .130 

Clubs.18 

Club, French Jockey. 18, 474 
Coaches, Public. . . 2, 7 

Coches d’Eau. . . .7 

Coffee-houses. . . 16 

Coin, French. . .18 

—Amount of in France. 19 n. 


PAGE 

—Comparative table of. . 20 
Coligny, Admiral, house 
in which he was mur¬ 
dered.239 

Collection of Engravings . 228 
—of Manuscripts. . . 227 

—Slandish. . . .167 

Colleges and Schools. 78, 80 
Colleges Communaux. 75,79n. 
—Royaux. . . .75, 79 

—Students in. and fees 
paid by. . . . 79 n. 

College des Anglais. . 421 
—de Sle. Barbe. . 80,411 
—de Bourbon. . 79, 204 
—de Charlemagne. . 79, 325 
— des Ecossais. . .418 

—de France. . . 78, 409 

—de Henri IV. . . 79,412 

—des Irlandais. . 80, 420 

—de St. Louis. . 79, 394 

—de Louis le Grand. 79, 410 
—de Montaigu. . .411 

—St. Nicolas. . . 93, 407 

—des Qualre Nations. . 141 
—Rollin. . . . 80, 421 

—de la Sorbonne. . 75, 395 
—Stanislas. . . .80 

—old remains of. 395,400,406, 
407, 408, 409, 410, 412, 418, 
420. 

Column of the Halle au Ble 247 
—of the Place de la Bas¬ 
tille, or of July. . 288 
—of the Place du Chatelet. 244 
—of the Place VendOme. 180 
Columns of Barriere du 

Trone.283 

Comile Consultalif. . 50 
Commerce on the Seine. 116 
Commerce, Tribunal de. 49 
Commercial Establish¬ 
ments. . . 107, 109 

Commissaires de Police . 55 
—Priseurs. . . .50 

Commissionnaires. . 15 
Communal Administra¬ 
tion.51 

Concerts. . . . 468 

Conchology, Museum of. 394 
Conciergerie, la. . 61, 296 
Concorde, Plpce de la. , 183 


570 


INDEX. 


% PAGE 

—historical events con¬ 
nected with. . .188 

Confreres de la Passion. 454 
Connaissance des Temps. 73, 
426 . 

Conseil des Prud’hommes. 50 , 
255 

—de Salubrite. . . 55 

—Royal de l’lnstruction 
Publique. . . .74 

Conservatoire de Musique 
et de Declamation Ly- 
rique. . . 83 , 219 , 457 

—des Arts et Metiers. 78 261 
Consuls. . . . 67 

Consumption of Paris. .' 113 
Convents. . . 92 

—remains of, . 394 , 406 , 424 
Convent of Celestins. . 393 
—of Dames Benedictines 
du St. Sacrement. . 261 
—of Dames Carmelites. 392,424 
—ofDamesduSacreCceur. 93 
284 , 350 ’ 

—of English Augustin 

^r U S S „ • • 93 , 420 

—ot English Benedictines. 424 
—of Feuillantines. . 424 
—des Feuillants. . .*179 

—of Franciscan nuns. . 290 
—of the Jacobins. . . 394 

—of Panlhemont. . . 302 

—of Soeurs de la Congre¬ 
gation de Notre Dame. 359 
—of Soeurs de St. Michel. 423 
—of Soeurs de St. Vincent 
d « Pau'e- • . 93 , 361 

—of the Temple . 261 

—of Ursulines. . . 424 

Conveyances from London. 2 
Convulsionists, scene of 
their extravagant acts. 436 
Copyright . , 08 

Corbeil railroad. . . g 

Corday, Charlotte, where 
she slabbed Marat. . 403 
Corneille, where he died. 233 
—Monumental inscription 

_ lo .231 

Corps de Garde. 286 , 289 , 292 
Council General of the 
Department. . , ,51 


—of Prefecture. 
Council of Hospitals, 
—of Ministers. . . 

—of State. 

Coucous. . 

Coupes. . 

Cour Batave. 


PAGE 
. 51 
. 96 
. 41 
. 41 
. 9 

. 8 
. . 265 

—des Comptes. 48 , 301 , 335 

—des Miracles. . . 257 

-Joya'e- . . 48 , 295 

—de la Vachene. . . 409 

Cours la Reine. . .188 

Court, Bals. . . . ■yiii 

—Presentation at. . . yin 

—of Assize. ... 48 
—of Cassation . . .47 

—Martial. . . .45 

Courtiers d’Assurance. . 107 
—de Commerce . .107 

Courts of Justice. . .47 

Creches. . . 10J 

Currency, British, reduced 
to francs. ... 20 
Custom-house. . 29, 254 

Customs,administration of. 53 
Dancing public. . 469 , 472 
Deal and Dumb Asylum. 423 
Deaths. . . .30 63 

—accidental. . 40 „ 

Debt, Arrest for. . .cg 

—Imprisonment for. . 66 

—Public. . 43 

Debtors, Prison for. 61 ,* 213 

Decimal System. . 22 

Degrees, Academical. ] 75 
Denis, St. Vehicles to. 4 9 

Department, Prefecture of. 51 
ot the Seine, financial 
service of. . . 

Departmental Administra¬ 
tion. . 

Deposoirs. . . * 254 

Depots de Condamnes. . 59 
—des Fourrages. . . 2S4 

des Poudreset SalpiHres. 321 
—de la Prefecture de Po¬ 
lice. . , . 69 298 

Deputies, Chamber of. 40’ 337 
Desaix, Monument to. 294 
Diligences. . . 

Dining, choice of Dishes, vii 
Diorama. , . 236j ^ 


INDEX, 


571 


Direction ties Contribu¬ 
tions Directes. 

—de l’Enregistrement et 
des Domaines. 

— of the Customs 
—des Droits d’Octroi. 

—of Indirect taxes. 
Directions to the Travel¬ 
ler, previous to depar¬ 
ture from England. 

—on his arrival in France, 
—on Ins arrival in Paris, 
—previous to departure 
from Paris. . 

Directory, Paris. 

Dishes, French, list of. 
Distance of principal towns 
ol Europe and France 
from Paris. . 

Division of Paris. 

—of the Circle. 
Dog-market. . 

Douane. 

Drama, origin and pro- 


PAGE 

53 

53 

53 

53 

53 


1 

1 

1 

1 

547 

V'j 


37 

53 

28 

439 

254 

454 


gress of, in France. 
Dramatic Authors, remu¬ 
neration made to, by 
theatres. . . .455 

Duels.08 

Dumb and Deaf Asylum. 423 
Dupuytren, Museum of. . 400 
Duties on articles taken to 


England. 


29 


—on articles imported into 
France. . . .34 

Eating-houses. . .15 

Ecoles Primaires superi- 
eures de Paris. . 84, 259 
—Number of Pupils in 
Ecoles Primaires for all 

France.85 n, 

—Royales Velerinaires, et 
Bergeries Royales. . 81 
—Ouvroirs. . . .84 

—Salles d’Asile, or Infant 

Schools.85 

—Adult.84 

—Speciales de Dessin. . 85 
Ecole d’Application . . 80 

—des Arts et Manufac¬ 
tures.82 

—des Beaux Arts. . 81, 376 


, . page 

—des Chartes . . .81 

—de Droit. . . 76, 410 

—d’Etat Major. . .81 

—des EJeves Sages Fem¬ 
mes.83 

—Graluite de Dessin. 82, 286 

400 

—Gratuile de Dessin pour 
les jeunes Personnes. , 82 
—de Langues Orientales 
Yivantes. . . .81 

—et Maison d’Accouche- 
ment. ‘ . ‘ . . 82, 433 

—de Medecin'e. x, 76, 141, 401 
—Mihtaire. . . 143, 353 

—des Mines". . . 81, 393 

—Munieipale Francois I. 84, 
213 

—de Musique et de Decla¬ 
mation . . . 83,219 

—Normale. . . 78, 421 

—de Pharinacie. . 81, 435 . 

—Poly technique. 80, 141, 409 
—des Pouts et Cliaussecs, 80, 
381 

—Pratique d’Analomie. . 101 , 

401 

—d’Equilation. . .83 

—de Natation. . o . 127, 320 
—Speciale du Coinmerce. 83 
—du Commerce et des Arts 
Industriels. . . .83 

Ecuries dii Roi. . 179, 199 

Edifices, Public. . .139 

—Private. . . .144 

Eglises, see Churches. 

Electors.40 

—and Jurors. . . .54 

Elephant of Bastille. 287, 378 
Elysee Bourbon, Palace of. 200 
Embassy, British. . . 203 

Enfans Sans-Souci. . . 454 

Ed fans Trouves, Hospice 
des. .... 426 
Enghien les Bains, vehicles 

to. 9 

—Bali at.483 

—Monument to Duke of . 545 

English Ambassador. . 203 

—Consul.203 

—Divine Service. . . .94 

—Money converted into 




572 


INDEX. 


PAGE 


Weights 


French at various rates 
of exchange. 

—Measures and 
compared with French 
—Newspapers. . 

—Nuns, Convent of. 
Engravings, Collection of. 
Entrance Duties of Paris. 
Entrepot de la Compagnie 
des Douanes. . 

—des Bleds. 

—des Glaces. ... 

—des Sels. 

Entreprises des Pompes 
Funebres. . . . 128n. 

Environs of Paris. . .477 

Episcopal Church, British. 202 
Equestrian Performances. 
Establishments, principal 
Commercial. . 


20 

24 

547 

420 

2’8 

110 

254 

543 

25G 

254 


46G 


—Religious. 

—Connected with the Hos¬ 
pitals. . . 90, 

Estaminets (Smoking- 

houses). 

filablissement en faveur 
des Blesses 
—de filature. 


109 

92 

101 

17 


Indigens. 


Exchange. 
—Bills of. 


10 ? 


141, 


—Bales of. 

Excursions. 

Executions. 

Exhibitions, etc. 
Expenses ofCity of Paris. 
—of Catholic Worship. . 
—of Jewish Worship. , 
—of Funerals. . 

—of Protestant Worship. 
Expiatory Chapel. . 
Exports from Paris. . 
Faculles, les'. . 

Faculty of Law, 

—of Letters. 

—of Medicine. . 

—of Sciences. . 

-of Theology. . 75, 76, 


Centigrade 


Fahrenheit,“scale 
into 

Reaumur. 
Faubourgs. 

F£tes, Public. 


101 
104 
220 
. 67 
. 19 
. vi 
. 429 
. 4G8 
1 lOn. 
95n. 
95 n. 
. 128 
95n. 
. 203 
112n. 
. 75 
. 76 
. 75 
. 76 
. 75 
77n. 


turned 
and 


28 

110 

474 


l'AGE 

—of Environs . . . vi 

Fiacres.8 

Fieschi, Infernal Machine 

of..258 

—head of, where preserved 402 
Fire-arms. . . .68 

Firemen. . . .46, 212 

Fishes, Collection of. . 448 

Fishing.68 

Flower-markets. . 212, 255, 
302, 385 

Flowers, number of, ex¬ 
posed for sale in Paris. 115n. 
Foire St. Laurent. . . 250 

Fontainebleau, to visit and 


return in one day. . v 
Food of Paris. . . .113 

Force, Prison de la. 57, 276 
—la Nouvelle. . . 58, 286 

—la Petite. . . .57 

Foreign Office. . . . 212 

—Ministers, residences of. 140 
Fortifications of Paris. . 46 


Fortresses of France, plans 
of. . . . * 350 

Forts of Paris, names of. 47 


Foundling Hospital. . 426 

Fountains. . . . 125 

Fountain de Bacchus. . 437 
—de Birague. . . . 292 

—des Capucins. . .182 

—des Garmes. . . . 408 

—Ste. Catherine. . . 286 

—du Chateau d’Eau. 179, 142, 
255 

—de la Croix du Trahoir. 239 

—Cuvier.452 

—Desaix.293 

—du Diable. . . .179 

—Egyptienne. . . . 359 

—de l’Elephant. . . 287 

—des Fosses St. Marcel. 453 
—de Ste. Genevieve. . 409 

—St. Germain. . . . 382 

—de Grenelle. . . 142, 366 

—du Gros Caillou. . . 352 

—de la Halle au Ble. . 248 

—des Innocens. . . 245 

—de Leda. . . .392 

—de Louis le Grand. . 212 

—de St. Louis. . . 290 


—du Marche St. Martin. 261 






INDEX. 


573 


PAGE 

—lie Mars. . . . 353 

—St. Martin. . . . 261 

—Maubnee. . . .269 

—lie Moliere. . . . 230 

—ile la Naiade. . . 269 

—Notre Dame . . .314 

—ilu Palmier. . . . 244 


—des Petits Peres. . . 235 

—ile la Place du Chatelet. 244 
—de la Place de la Con¬ 
corde.186 


—de la Place de l’Ecole. 244 
—de la Place de Francois 1. 189 
•—de la Place Maubert. . 408 
—de la Place St. Michel. 394 
—de la Place du Palais 

Royal.179 

—de la Place St. Sulpice. 385 
—de la Pointe St. Eusta- 

che.238 

—de Popincourt. . .277 

—de la Hue Cbarenton. . 286 
—de la Rue Garanciere. 385 
—de la Hue de l'Ecole de 
Medecine. . . . 403 

—de la Rue Folie Meri- 

court.277 

—de la Rue Montmartre. 236 
—de la Rue de la Roquelle 278 
—du Rond Point, Champs 
Elysees. . . .189 

—de Richelieu, orLouvois 222 
—deTantale. . . . 238 

—de Venddme. . .261 

Fourneaux, or kitchens. . 102 
Fourrages, depot des. . 284 
France, Budget of. . . . 43 

—Colleges in.79n. 

—Courts and Tribunals of. 47 
—Debt of. ... 43 
—Government of . .40 

—Imports and Exports 
of. .0 . . . 112n. 

—Inslilut de . . 70, 374 

—Kings, names of. . 145 
—Laws affecting British 
residents in. . . 62 

—Mode of travelling in. 2 
—Posting regulations in. 3 
—University of. . .74 

Francs, British Currency 
reduced into. . . 20 


PAGE 

Franking letters, etc. . 12 

Freemasons. . . .107 

f rench and English money 19 
French Independents. . 94 

Fresco Painting . 210/i 

Funerals, expenses of . 128 

Furnished Apartments . 13 

Gabrielle d’Eslrees, house 
0 1. . . . .4 80 

Galerie Espagnole . .167 

—Francaise . . .166 

—des plans des Forteresses 
^ de France . . . 350 

Galignani’s Messenger iii, 222 
—Library and Reading- 
Rooms . . 18, 222 

Galleries, Private . . 86 

Gallery of Ancient Sculp¬ 
ture.229 

—of Botany. . . .451 

—of Geology . . . 448 

—of the Louvre. . 86, 161 
—of the Luxembourg . 389 
—of Mineralogy. . . 448 

—of M. Sommerard. . 397 
—of M. Soult. . . .87 

—of Zoology . . . 447 

Gambling- houses, cau¬ 
tions respecting . . v 

Garde Meuble de la Cou- 
ronne. . . . 218 

—Royale, desperate resist¬ 
ance or,* in 1830 . . 179 

Gardens, Public. . . 468 

—Royal. . 152, 175, 390, 475 
Garden of Luxembourg. 390, 
475 

—of the Palais Royal 175, 475 
—of Plan Is. . . 442, 476 

—of the Tuileries . 152, 475 
Gare de l’Arsenal . . 124 

Gare, Pont de la. . . 284 

Garrison of Paris. . . 45 

Gas. . . . .119 

— Light Company . .216 

Gaul, conquest of, by Cae¬ 
sar.129 

General Post-Office. 3, 11, 12 
—Notice of Paris. . . 129 

Geopraphical Situation of 

Paris.36 

Geological Gallery 394, 448 



574 


INDEX. 


PAGE 

- Structure of the Depart¬ 
ment of the Seine. . 37 
Georama. . . . 469 

George lV.’s monument to 
James II. 514 

Germain (St.) Railroad. 6, 515 
—Vehicles to . . .9 

Glass Coaches ... 7 

—(Plate) Manufactory . 256 
Gobelins, Manufacure des. 437 
Gospel first preached at 

Paris.130 

Goujon, Jean, house of. 395 
Government establishments. 42 
—Civil,Military, and Judi¬ 
cial.40 

Graves, three kinds of in 
the Cemeteries . I28n 

Greek Church. . . 95 

Grenier d’Abondance, or 
de Reserve. . 141, 321 

—a Sel. . . . 254 

Guards, Municipal . . 45 

Guards, National. - . .45 

Guillotine, where kept, 
and how may be seen. 429 


Guincbes. . . . 472 

Guinguettes. . . .471 

Gymnase. . . .83 

—Nautique. . . , 469 

Hackney Coaches . . 7 

Halle au Ble. . . . 247 

—aux Cuirs. . . . 258 

—aux Draps . . . 246 

—aux Veaux . . . 406 

—aux Vins . . . 141, 441 

Henri IV., house in front 
of which he was assas¬ 
sinated. . . . 245 

—Statues of. . 292, 329, 331 
Hippodrome. . 9, 196, 466 

Historical Notice of Paris. 129 
Histories of Paris. . 313n 

Horses, Market. . . 439 

—Races. . . 354, 473 

—Studs of. . 474, 481, 494 

—Duty on, . . 31, 35 

Hospices desenfants Trou- 
ves el Orphelins. , 426, 428 
—Devillas. . . . 392 


—des Incurables (men). 251 

—des Incurables (women) 359 


PAGE 


—Leprince. . . . 352 

—des Menages. . . 360 

—de la Rochefoucauld, . 100 
—de la Salpelriere . . 439 

—de la Vieillesse. . 439 

Hospitals and Benevolent 
Institutions. . 96, 97 

—Bureau for admission 
into the. . 97, 317 

—Financial condition of. 99 
—Statistical condition 97n., 98 
Hospital St. Antoine. . 284 
—Beaujon. . . . 198 

—de Bictdce . . 142, 479 

—de Charenton . . 481 

—de la Charite. . . 366 

—Civil du Bon Secours . 100 
—Clinique de l’Ecole de 
Medecine. . . . 403 

—Cochin. . . . 432 

—des Enfans Malades 357, 428 
—Hotel-Dieu. . 142, 315 
—Hotel-Dieu Annexe . 286 
—Louis-Philippe. . .218 

—Lourcine. . . .99 

—St. Louis. . . 142, 252 

—de Madame Necker . 356 
—Maison d’Enghien. 100, 284 
—de la Maternite. 82, 433 
—Militaire. . 353, 433 

—de la Pitie. . . 452 

—des Quinze-Vingts. . 287 
—du Val de Gr&ce. . 142, 433 
—des Veneriens, ou du 

Midi.432 

Hotel des Affaires fitran- 
geres, . . .212, 342 

—des Arch, du Royaume. 269 
—de Mad, Adelaide d’Or- 


leans.362 

—de St. Aignan. . . 269 

—d’Aumont. . . . 325 

—de Beauveau. . . 200 

—de Biron. . . . 350 

—Borghese. . , . 203 


—of Duchess of Bourbon. 362 


—de Carnavalet. 
—Chamisot. 

— du Cb&telet. 

—de Chatillon. 
—de Cluny. , 
—de Colbert. . 


. 291 
. 318 
. 350 
. 276, 361 
. 397 
. 406 




INDEX. 


575 


DAGE 

—Demidoff. .' . . . 350 

—des Finances. . .182 

—de Gaucher. . . .276 

—de Grammont. . . 362 

—deHerbouville, . . 276 

—de Hollande. . . .275 

—Hope.350 

—des Invalides. . 142, 342 

—de Jassaud. . . . 325 

—de Jeanne d’Albret. . 275 

—Lambert. . . . 320 

—de Lamoignon. . .276 

—de la Legion d’Honneur. 336 
—de Longueville. . .179 

—de Luynes. . . . 362 

—de la Marine . . .187 

—Meurice. . . 14, 179 

—Mignon.404 

—du Ministere du Com¬ 
merce.362 

—du Ministere del’lnstruc- 
tion Publique. . . 362 

—du Ministere de l’lnte- 

rieur.362 

—du Ministere de la Guerre 362 
—des Monnaies. . 140, 371 

—deMonlholon. . . 236 

—de Nesle. . . . 247 

—de Nesmond.. . . 406 

—of Duchess dowager of 


Orleans. 

. 362 

—d’Orsay . 

362 

—d’Osmond. 

. 206 

—Perigord. 

. 362 

—Ponlalba. 

. 203 

—Ponlhieu. 

. 239 

—des Postes. . 

. 236 


—de la Prefecture de Po¬ 
lice.299 

—dePraslin. . . . 334 

—du President delaCham- 
bre des Deputes. . . 341 

— of Queen Christina. . 200 

—de la Reine Blanche. , 400 
—de la Reyniere. . . 203 

—de Rothschild. . 183, 219 
—de St. Paul. . . 322 

—de Savojsi. . . . 276 

—de Sens,. , . 325 

—de Soubise. . . . 269 

—Sully. . . . . .323 

—of Duchess of Savoy. . 385 


PAGE 

—Talleyrand. . . , 183 

—du Timbre. . . 212, 235 

—de Toulouse. . . 385 

—de la Tremouille. . 244 

—du Tresorier. . .301 

—d’Uzes. . . . 236 

—de Yendome. . . 393 

—Victoria. . . . 212 

—de Ville. . . 140, 328 

Hotels, furnished, infor¬ 
mation concerning. . 13 
—Masters of. . . . 69 

Households, Royal. . . 43 

Houses and streets. . 116, 117 
Houses inhabited by Na¬ 
poleon/ \ . . 205n 

Huissiers. . . .50 

Hydraulic Machines. 191, 352, 


493 

Ice-houses , 

He de la Cite. . 

—St. Louis. 

—aux Vaches. . 

—Louviers, 
Importations. . 
Imprimerip Royale. 
Imprisonment for 


. 515 
. 292 
. 318 
. 318 
. 320 
. . 112 n 

. 272 
Debt. 66 


Independents, French. . 94 
Infant schools. . . 85 

Infanticides, number of in 

Paris. 427 n 

Infernal Machine of Fieschi. 258 
—of Cadoqdal. . .179 

IntirmeriedeMarieTherese 429 
Innkeepers. . . .68 

Inns, French. . . .13 

Inspection of Weights and 
Measures. . . .51 

Institut de France, 70,141, 374 
—des Freres des Ecoles 

Chretiennes. . . .93 

—d’Afrique. . . .91 

—Historique. . . .89 

Institution des jeunes A- 
veugles. . . . 357 

—British Medical. . . 103 

—pour les Filles Liberees. 62 
—de Ste. Perine. . .192 

—des Sounds Muets. . 423 

—St. Nicolas. . . . 104 

Institutions and Pensions. 84 
—Charitable. „ . 96, 142 


576 


INDEX. 


PAGE 

—Religious. . . . 92 

—Scienlific and literary. 70,87 
Interpreters. . . .15 

Invalides, Hotel des . . 342 

Islands of Paris. 38, 292, 318 
Jacobins chapel of the. . 394 
James II., burial place of. 419 
424 

—monument of. . 419, 514 
Jardins Publics. . . 468 

Jardin Botanique de Pfi- 
cole de Medecine. . 393 
—de la Gaite. . . .471 

—d’Hiver. . . .469 

—Mabille. . . .470 

—de Paris. . . .409 

—des Plantes. . 141, 442, 476 

—Turc.258 

Jeux de Paume. . . 469 

Jewish Persuasion. . . 95 

Joan of Arc, anecdote of. 231 
—Place where made pri¬ 
soner by the English. 483 
Jockey-club, French. 18, 474 
Journals, English. . .547 

—French.548 


—Acts. . . 

—Ambassadors, Consuls. 
—Apartments. . 

—Arrest. . 

—Bills of Exchange 
—Births. . 

—Carriers. 

—Civil Rights. . 
—Copyright. 

—Deaths. . 

-Duels. 


—Postage for. 


13 


Journeymen of Paris. . 113 
Joutes sur l’eau. . . 475 

Judicial Government. . 40 

Juges de Paix. . . 49 

Jurors and Electors. . 54 

Justice, Courts of. . . 47 

—Palais de. . . .294 

Keeper of the Seals. . 41 

Kings of France, chrono¬ 
logical table of. . . 145 

King’s Councils. . .41 

—Household. . . .43 

—Stables. . . 179 , 199 

Kitchens, Public. . . 102 

Knights Hospitallers, house 

T °/- • 409 

Lafayette, burial-place of. 284 

—Bust of.. 

Languages, foreign, diplo¬ 
mas in.. 

Laleran, Tour, St. Jean de. 409 
Law, Faculty of. , . 76 

—School of. . . .410 

Laws affecting British Re¬ 
sidents. *. » . ,62 


-Fishing. 


Imprisonment for 
•Innkeepers. . 
Lease, form of. 


Debt. 


-Marriages. 


PAGE 
67 
67 
69 
66 

67 
62 

68 

65 
68 
63 
68 
68 

66 
. 68 
. 70 
. 63 
. 68 
. xiv 
. 68 
. 70 
. 69 
. 64 
. 67 

58, 249 


—National Guard. 

—Patenls. . . 

—Port d’Armes. 

—Rent, receipt for. 
—Servants. 

—Wills. . 

—Wi I nesses. 

Lazare, St. Prison of. 

Lazarists, ancient Convent 
, of. . . .58, 249, 359 

Lease, form of a. . . 70 

Lectures, Public. 74, 75 , 76, 
77, 78, 81, 82, 88 , 263, 391, 
394, 396, 401, 410, 411, 426. 
Legion d’Honneur, orderof 44 
—Hotel de la. . . . 330 

Lelter-boxes. . . .11 

Letters.u 

—for Foreign Countries. . 11 
Libraries, see Bibliothe- 
Ques. . 87 

—Circulating. . . . 18 

—of Minister of War. .362 
—Military. . . 345, 365 

—of Natural History. . 451 

—Private. §7 

—of Versailles. . . 542 

Library, Galignani’s. 18, 222 
Lighting of Paris. . .119 

Literary Institutions. . 70 
—Societies. . . .87 

I ivre de Poste. . . 4 

Lodgings in Paris. . .13 

London, conveyances from. 2 
Longchamps. . . .191 

Longitudes, Bureau des. 73,425 



INDEX. 


577 


PAGE 

Longevity of Parisian Fa¬ 
milies.40 

Looking-Glass Manufac¬ 
tory.25G 

Louis St., Heart of. . . 301 n 

Louis XIII., Statue of. . 290 
Louis XIV., Statue of. . 234 
Louis XVI. and Marie An¬ 
toinette, place of exe¬ 
cution of. . .188 

Louvre, Palace of the. . 157 
—attack of, in July. . 158 

—Galerie Franchise.. . 1 G 6 

—Gallery of the. . 156, 1 G 1 

—Musee des Antiques. . iG9 
—Musee des Dessins. . 1G7 
—Musee Grec et Romain. 1G4 
—Musee Egvplien. . . JG5 

—Musee de la Marine. . 1C9 
—Musee de la Sculpture 
Moderne. . . .170 

—Musee des Tableaux. 1G2 
—Musee des Tableaux Es- 

pagnols.1G7 

—Musee Hall Standish. . 1G7 
Luggage, Passengers’. 3, 29 
Lunatic Hospitals. . 440, 479, 

481 

Lutheran Worship and 
Churches. . . .94 

—Church des Cannes. . 276 
Luxembourg, Palace of 
the. . . . .385 

—Gallery of the. . . 389 

—Garden of the. . . 390 

—Library of the. . . 388 

—le Petit.391 

—Pepiniere du. . . 391 

Luxor, Obelisk of. . . 184 

Lying-in Hospital. . . 82 

Lyons Railroad. . . 7 

Madeleine, la. . . 206 

Madelonneltes, the. . 58 
Magazine of Military Ac¬ 
coutrements. . . 352 

Maille Fruit Market. . 406 

Mairies.53 

Maisons de Sante. . .100 

Maison d’Accouchement. 82 
—d’ArrOt des Madelonnet- 
tes. .... 58 
«—d’Arr^t militaire. . .371 


„ page 

—Centrale d’Education 

Correctionnelle. . 

—de Nourrices. 

—de la Couronne d’Or. . 

—des Diaconesses. . 

—d’Enghien. . . 100, 

—de Francois I. 

—du Noviciat des Reli- 
gieuses Hospilalieres. . 

—de Retraile . 

—Royale de Sante. . 100, 
—Royale de St. Denis. 

—Scipion. 

—St. Casimir. . 

—de Secours. . 

—St. Foix. 

—du Pont de Fer. 

—pour Enfanls Delaisses. 
Malesherbes, monument to 
Malles Posies. 

Mammalia, Collection of. 
Manufacture des Glaces. 

—des Gobelins. . 112, 

—de Porcelaine. . 112, 

—de la Savonnerie. 

—Royale des Tabacs. 112, 
Manufactures of Paris. 
Manuscripts, Collection of. 
Marat, where slabbed, 
—where buried, 

Marboeuf, Chapel of. 94, 
Marche aux Arbusles. 


—des Augustins. 


60 
101 
244 
103 
284 
189 

361 
100 

250 
85 

. 453 
103, 440 
. 251 
. 206 
236 
103 
295 
3 

447 
256 

437 
500 

438 
351 
111 
227 

403 
415 
192 
302 

404 
286 
246 
275 
408 

251 

439 
439 


—Beauveau 
—au Beurre. . 

—des Blancs Manteaux . 

—des Carmes. 

—au Charbon. . 116, 

—aux Chevaux. 

—auxChiens. 

—aux Fleurs. 212,255,302,385 
—aux Fourrages. . 284, 393 

—au Fromage. . . 246 

—aux Fruits (the Maille). 406 
—St. Germain. . . 381 

—des Herborisles. . 246 

—St. Honore. . .212 

—aux Huitres. . . 258 

—des Innocents. . . 245 

—St. Jacques de la Bou- 
cherie. . . .265 

—St. Jean. . . .276 




578 

—St. Joseph. 

—de la Madeleine 
—St. Martin, 
—aux OEufs. 

—aux Oignons. 

—aux Oiseaux. 
—au Pain/ 

—au Poisson. 


INDEX. 


PAGE 

, 235 
, 212 
. 261 
. 246 
. 246 
. 382 
. 246 
246 


—aux Pommes de Terre. 246 
—des Prouvaires. . .247 

—du Roule. . . .199 

—du Vieux Linge. 259, 286 
—a la \ olaille. . . 404 

Marie Antoinette, place of 
confinement of. . 296, 298 
Markets. " . . 114 , i 4 j 

—Cattle. 114, 406,480, 497,499 
Marriages. ... 63 
Mary Queen of Scots, Por¬ 
trait of. ... 412 
Masked Balls. . * 472 

Mass, high, where to be 
attended. . . ju 

Massacre of St. Barthe- 

Jfmy * . 133, 158/1 

Mats de Cocagne. . . 475 

Measures and Weights, . 22 
—French and English, 
compared. ... 23 
Meat, lor the Hospitals. 99 n 
Medals, Cabinets of. 226, 372 

Medical Institution, British 103 

—Education. . . . xi 

—School of Paris. . . x 

—Societies. . . 89 90 

Medicine, Academy of. ’ 75 
Medicine, Faculty of. 79 
—School of. . . .' 4 01 

—Students, Graduation of. x 
—-OfficialStalisticRelurns 90 n. 
Menagerie. . . .444 

Menus Plaisirs, Salle des. 218 
Meridian Line whence 
French Astronomers 
reckon their Longitude. 425 
Messageries Royales. . 3 , 235 
—Gelierales. , . 3 233 

Messenger, Galignani’s. in! 222 
metre. • • • . 2 *) 

Metrical System. . .* 22 

Mettray, colony of. . 62 
Meurice’s Hotel. . 14 , 179 


„ . PAGE 

Mi-Careme . . . 472 

Midwifery, Female Schooi 
for. . . . .82 

Military Government of 

E ari ?.\ • . . 40, 45 

—Hospitals. . 353 , 433 

—Prisons. 56, 371, 385,391,514 
—Schools. . . 80, 353 

Mineralogical Gallery. . 448 

— Ecole des Mines. * , 393 

Ministers, Residence of Fo¬ 
reign. ... t .47 

—Council of. . . .it 

—of Charles X., prison in 
which they were confin¬ 
ed during trial. . . 391 

Minister ol Finances. 42, 182 

—of Agriculture and Com¬ 
merce. . . . 42 , 362 

—tor Foreign Affairs. 41, 212 , 

—of the Interior. . 42, 362 
—of Justice and Public 

Worship. . . ,42 

—of the Marine and Colo- 
nies. , , .41 187 

—of Public Instruction. 42,362 
—of Public Works. . 42 

-of War. . .41,362 

Mint. . . . .371 

Mints in France. .* 373 //. 

Mohere, house in which 

he was born. . . 247 

house in which he died. 230 
—Monument to his Me¬ 
Monceaux, Parc de. * 199,’ 476 

-Plaine de. . . . 20 0 

Monetary System. , . 13 

Money, English, value of 
in Francs. , . .20 

Mont de Piete. . 105 * 274 

Montfaucon, Poudrelte de! 253 
Monthyon, M., Prizes 

lounded by. , . 79 

Montmartre, Abattoir of! 216 
—Cemetery of. . .213 

—Reservoir of. . 495 

Montmorency, vehicles to! 9 
Monument to Cuvier. 452 
—to Cardinal DeBelloy. * 312 
—to Corneille, . 2 3X 


INDEX. 


579 


. _ PAGE 

—to Count d’Harcourt. .311 
—to Desaix. . . . 294 

—to the Abbe del’Epee232,542 
—to Duke d’Enghien. . 545 
—to General Hoche. . 541 
—to James II.• 419, 424, 515 
—to Moliere/ . . .230 

—to Malesherbes. . . 295 

—to Duke of Orleans. . id 
Morgue, la. . . 55,317 

Municipal Guards. . . 45 

Municipal Police, Tribunal 
of. . . . .49 

Musee des Antiques.* .* 169 
—d’Artillerie . . 3G4, 545 

—du Conservatoire des 
Arts et Metiers. . . 2 G 1 

—des Dessins. . .167 

—Dupuytren. . . .400 

—Egyptien. . . .165 

—Grec el Romain. . . 164 

—d’Histoire nalurelle. 78, 445 
—de i’llotel de Cluny. .397 

—du Luxembourg. . 389 

—de la Marine. . . 1 69 

—de l’Ecole de Medecine. 402 
—de l’Ecole des Mines. . 393 

—de Mineralogie. . . 448 

Monelaire. . . .372 

—des Monuments Fran¬ 
cis. . . . .377 

—de la Sculpture Mo- 

derne.170 

—des PlAtres. . .171 

—des Tableaux. . . 162 

—Espagnole. . . . 167 

—Hall Standish. . .167 

Museums. ... 86 

—of Art. . . 86 , 161, 389 

—of Antiquity. 86 , 169, 171, 
226, 397j 

—of Natural History, 86 , 445, 
452 

—of Phrenology. . . 87 

—Private. . . . 86 

Musical Societies. . 90, 91 

Napoleon’s early mansion. 205 
—Equestrian statue. . 343 
—Various residences. . 205w. 
—Tomb. . . . 348 n. 

Natation, Ecoles de. . 127 
National guard. . 45, 68 


PAGE 

Natural History, Cabinet of 445 
—Museum of. . . 445,452 

Naval establishment. . 45 

Navy office. . . 41, 187 

Newspapers, list of. . 548 

—English. . . .647 

News Rooms. . . is, 222 

Ney, Marshal, the place 
where he was shot. . 426 
Northern (great) Railroad. 7 
Notaries. . . 60, 245 

Notice of Paris, historical. 129 
Nolre-Dame, Cathedral of. 303 
—de Lorette. . . . 214 

Nourrices, Direction gene- 
rale des, . . .101 

Nouvelle Athenes. . . 216 

Nuns, du Sacre Coeur. . 93 
—English. . . 93, 420 

— de St. Vincent de Paule. 93 
Nurseries. . . .101 

Nursery Grounds. . 391, 443 
Nurses, Office for obtain¬ 
ing. 101 

Obelisk from Luxor. . 184 
Observatoire. . . 141, 424 

Octroi Duties. . . .110 

Offices of Ambassadors. 547 
—of the Ministers. . 41,42 
—at the Hotel de Ville. . 51 
Omnibuses, complet list of. 9 
Opera, Comic. . 219, 460 
—French. . . .457 

—Italian. . . .459 

Oratoire, the. . . 94, 239 

Ordre Royal de la Legion 
d’Honneur. . . 44 , 336 

Orleans, Duke of, brother 
of Charles VI., murder 
of. . . . .274 

—Duke of, son of Louis 
Philippe, statue of. . 161 
—Railroad. ... 6 

Orphan asylum. . 286, 426 
Ourcq, Canal de P. . .123 

Ouvroirs. . . .84 

Packets, time of sailing. 2 
Pagan Worship at Paris. 129 
Paintings, Private Galle¬ 
ries of. ... 86 

Palaces, Royal, and other. 137 
Palais Archiepiscopal. 313, 314 





580 


INDEX. 


PAGE 
81, 376 


—des Beaux Arts. 

—Bourbon. . .138, 

—Elysee Bourbon . 138, 

—Cardinal. 

—de la Cliambre des De¬ 
putes. 

—de la Cliambre des Pairs. 

—de rinstitut. 

—de Jusliee. . . 140, 

—de la Legion d’Honneur, 

—du Louvre. 

—du Luxembourg. . 1 38, 

—du quai d’Orsay. . 

—Royal. . . . 138, 

—du Temple. . 

—des Thermes. 

—des Tournelles. 

—des Tuileries. . 138, 
Panorama. 

Panlhemont, le. . 94, 
Pantheon. 

Parcels. 

Paris, arrival at. 

—Academy of. 

—Arrondissemenls of 
—Budget of City of. 

—Civil Administration of 
65 

—Basin geological struc¬ 
ture of. ... 

—Charitable institutions 
of. . . 96 to 106, 

—Churches of. . 92, 
—Circumference of. 

—Climate of. . 

—Commerce of. . . 112n. ; 

—Commercial Establish¬ 
ments of. 

—Consumption of. 

—Description of, by ar- 
rondissements. 

—Directory. 

—Distance of, from the 

principal towns of Eu¬ 
rope an France. . 

—Division of. . 

—Electors and jurors. 
—Environs of. 

—Expense of the popula¬ 
tion of. . . . li3n. 

—Expenses of. . .51 n. 

—Exportsof. . . H2n. 


337 

200 

272 

337 

385 

374 

294 

336 

157 

385 

334 

172 

260 

398 

289 

146 

468 

362 

412 

3 

1 

75 

39 

no 

51, 


37 

142 

138 

37 

37 


107 

113 

146 

547 


37 

53 

54 
477 


PAGE 

—Extent of, at various 
periods. . . . 136 n. 

—Fortifications of. . 46 
—Government of. . . 40 

—Histories of. . 129, 313 n. 
—Houses of. . . .116 

—Islands of. . 38,292,318 
—Manufactures of. .ill 
—Medical Society, (Eng¬ 
lish). 90 

—Military Government of. 45 
—Modern embellishment of 136 
—Notice, General, of. . 129 
—Octroi and Entrance Du¬ 
ties of. . . no 

—Physical Statistics of. .116 
—Police of. 54 

—Population of. . . 39 

—Prisons of. . . . 56 

—Public Institutions of. . 70 
—Quarries of. . . 429n< 

—Receipts of. . . 51n, 

—Rivers of. 38 

—Situation of . . 36 

—Societies, divers,in. 87tol05 
—Stale, present, of. . 136 
—Streets of. . .no 

—Taxes of. . . .no 

—Treasury of the City of. 52 
—Vievys, finest, of, to be 
obtained from Column 
of Place Yendome, Arc 
de Triomphe, Towers of 
Notre Dame, Dome of 
Pantheon, Montmartre, 
Cemetery of Pere la 
Chaise, and the donjon 
of Vincennes. 

Park de Monceaux. 199, 476 
Parlemenls, ancient. 

Parvis Notre Dame. 
Passage-boats. 

Passages. 

Passage Choiseul. . 

—Colbert. 

—JoufTroy. 

—des Panoramas. 

—du Pont-Neuf. 

—du Saumon. 

—Verdeau. 

—Vero-Dodat. 

—Vivienne. 


. 74 
. 304 
. 7 
. 121 
. 212 
. 234 
. 219 
. 220 
. 371 
. 236 
. 219 
. 238 
. 233 



INDEX. 


581 


PAGE 

3, 29 
I, 55 
xiv 


Passenger's luggage. 

Passports. . . 

£ al< ?“ ts . . 

paving materials, price of. li7 

[awribrokers. . . 105 , 274 

Peas, consumption of. . 115 n. 

Peers, Chamber of. . 40, 385 

I ensions. . . .84 

Pepinieredu Luxembourg. 39 t 

1 ere La Chaise, Cemetery 

?,• • 279 

—Monuments in, approxi¬ 
mative amount of sums 
expended on. . . 28U. 

Perth, Duke of, Monument 
erected by. . . . 419 

Pharinacie Centrale. 101 , 406 
—Ecolede. . .81,435 

Phrenological Society. . 90 
Physical Statistics. . lie 
Physicians, number of. .90 n. 
Pichegru General, monu¬ 
ment of. ... 453 
Picpus, Cemetery of. . 284 

ace ^.. 

that must be seen by a 

Granger, list of. . . jjj 

—ol Historical Note. . 145 
—Memorable for Scenes 
of Popular Disturbance. 145 
—of Public Amusement. 454 
Place de la Bastille. . 287 
—Beauveau. . . .200 

—de la Bourse. . . 220 

—du Carrousel. . .155 

—Triumphal Arch of the. 155 
—du Chatelet. . . 244 

—Dauphine. . . . 293 

—de l’Ecole. . „ .244 

—de Francois I. . . 189 

—de Greve. . . 328, 333 

—Louis XV., orde la Con¬ 
corde. . . . . 183 

— Historical Recollections 

?/* * • • -188 

—Mazas. . . .321, 441 

—St. Michel. . . .394 

—de Notre Dame. . . 304 

—du Palais Bourbon. . 341 

—du Palais Royal. . .179 

—Richelieu. . . .222 

—Royale. . . .289 


, m . PAGE 

-J u Trone. . 283, 321, 474 
—Valhubert. . . .441 

—Venddme. . . ] 180 

—des Victoires. . .134 

-des Vosges. . . 29 On. 

Plants, Garden of. . . 442 

Plate Glass Manufactory. 256 
Police, Administration of the 54 
—Commissaires de. . . 55 

—Prefecture de . 54,299 
~Grace for public car- 

„ plages. ... 9 

Polyorama National. . . 4 G 7 
Polytechnic School. . 80, 409 
Pompedu 1 Pont Notre Dame 303 
—de la Samarilaine. . 293 
—a feu de Chaillot . . 191 

—du Gros Caillou. . . 352 

Pompes Funebres, Entre- 
prises des . . . 128 

Pompiers, Sapeurs. . 46, 212 
Pontalba, Hotel. . . 203 

P° n ts.. 

—de 1’AIlee d’Antin, or 
des Invalides. . 189, 350 

—de rArchevMie . . 314 

-des Arts. . . . 376 

d Arcole. . . .333 

—d’Austerlitz . . . 441 

—de Bercy, or de la Gare. 284 
—du Canal St. Martin. 277, 289 
—du Carrousel, or des Sts. 

Peres.381 

—au Change. . . .302 

—de la Cite. . . .313 

—de Constantine. . . 320 

—de Damielle. . 320, 323 

—au Double. . . .315 

—de I’Estoccade. . . 321 

—de Jena. . . .355 

—Louis Philippe. . . 318 

—Louis XVI., or de la 

Concorde. . . .333 

—Marie . . 

—St. Michel. . . .317 

—Neuf. .... 292 
-Notre Dame. . . 302 

“Petit.317 

—Rouge. . . . 314 

—Poyal. 333 

—de la Tournelle. . . 3 20 

Ponts et Chaussees. . 80, 381 







582 


INDEX. 


PAGE 

Poor, kitchens for the. . 102 
PopePiusVII., placewhere 
he was detained pri¬ 
soner by Napoleon. . 485 

Population of Paris. . 39 

—of the arrondissements. 39 
—of France. . . . 39n. 

Porcelain Manufactory. . 500 
Port d’Armes. . . G8 

Ports or Wharfs. . . 11G 

Porte St. Denis. . . 249 

—St. Martin. . . . 255 

—Maillot. . . .196 

Post Office. . . 11, 23G 

—Administration of the. 53 
—Statistics of. . .I3n. 

Post-Horses, Office for. 53,214 
Posle, Petite. . . . li 

—aux Chevaux. . 53,214 

Posting in France. . . 3 

Potatoes, consumption of 
in Paris. . . . H5n. 

Poudrelte de Montfaucon. 253 
Prado. . . . 302, 469 

Pre aux Clercs. . . 368 

—St. Gervais. . . .477 

Prefecture of the Depart¬ 
ment. 51 

—Conseil de. . . .51 

—of Police. . 1,54,140, 299 
Premonslralensian Monks. 403 
Priests, number of. . 95 n. 
Prince of Wales, wager 
between, and Count 
d’Arlois. . . .476 

Principal towns of Europe, 
distance of, from Paris. 3? 
Printing Office, Royal. 140, 272 
Prisons. * . . . ,56 

Prison de FAbbaye. . 61, 371 
—de la Conciergerie. 61,296 
—of Marie Antoinette. 296, 298 
—for Debtors. . .61,213 

—de la Force. . . 57,276 

—de la Nouvelle Force. 58, 286 
—de la Petite Force. . 57 
—pour les Jeunes Hele¬ 
nas. ” . * . .60, 278 

—de St. j Lazare. . 58,249 
—des Madelonnelles, . 58 
—de Ste. Pelagie. . . 61 


PAGE 

—de la Prefecture de Po¬ 


lice. , *. . 60,298 

—de la Roquette. . 59, 278 
Private Museums. . . 86 

—Edifices. . . .144 

—Libraries. . . .87 

Privy Council. . .41 

Professeurs-agreges.. . 77 

Promenades. . . . 475 

—of Longchamps. . .191 


Protestant Churches. 94, 192, 
202, 239, 276, 362 
Institutions. . . .93 

Prud’hommes, Council of. 50 

255 

Public Amusement, places 


of. .... 454 
—Ruildings. . . .139 

—Coaches. . . . 2, 7 

—Debt.43. 

—Fetes.474 

—Gardens. . . .468 

—Institutions. . . 70 


—Instruction, Administra¬ 
tion of. ... 52 
—Lectures, see Lectures. 

—Libraries, see Bibliothc- 

ques .87 

—Museums, see Muse'es. 86 
—Promenades. * . 475 

—Works, Administration. 52 
Publications of the Aca¬ 
demic." . . 72n. 73 n. 

Quarries Under Paris, as¬ 
certained extent of. 429n. 
Quarters of Paris. . . 53 ' 

Quartier de Francois I. .189 
—Latin. 3 . . . .406 

Quays. ■>. . . .122 

QuinzeViligts.Hopitaldes. 287 
Races. . . . 354, 473 

Railroads.. . 2 , 6 , 499, 515 

Ranelagh.. . . 471, 477 

Rate ol Posting. . . 5 

Ravaillac, remains of, 
where formerly sus- 
pended. . . .297 

Reading-Rooms. . 18, 222 

Reaumur’s Scale turned 
into Fahrenheit’s. . . 28 

Rebuts, Bureau des. . 13 

Receipts of City of Paris. 5 ln, 





INDEX, 


583 


PAGE 
94, 219 

• 3 


Redemption, la. 

Regulations, Posting. 
Religious Institutions. 

—Armenian. 

—Greek. . 

—Jewish. . 

—Protestant. 

—Romish. 

Rent, Receipt for. 

Reptiles, Collection of. . 
Reservoirs. 

Reservoir de la rue Cassini. 

—de Montmartre. . 

—du Pantheon. 

—de la Rue Racine. . 

—de la rue Vaugirard. ._ 

—de la Vieille Estrapade. 420 


92 
95 
95 
95 

93 
92 
70 

446 

126 

426 

459 

420 

395 

361 


15 
. 110 
. 473 
head 
. 39 Gn, 
. 83 
. 65 
38 
52 
431 


of. 


Restaurateurs. 

Revenues of Paris. 

Reviews, Military. 

Richelieu. Cardinal, 
of. . . . 

Riding Schools. 

Rights, Civil. . 

Rivers of Paris. 

Roads, Administration 
Rocking stones. 

Romish Clergy, annual cost 
* of. . . . . ,95w. 

—how composed. . . 92 

—Churches. . . .92 

Rothschild’s hotels. . . 219 

Rouen Railroad. , . 6 

Rousseau, burial-place of. 415 
—place where he died. . 483 
Routes from the coast to 

Paris. 1 

—from Calais. ... 2 

—from Dieppe. . . 2 

—from Ostend. . . 2 

—from Havre and Rouen. 2 
Royal Households. . . 43 

—Colleges. . .79 

-Printing-Office. . . 140 

Rue des Cannes . . 408 

—St. Jean de Beauvais. . 408 
—du Rem part. . . .231 

—de la Tonnellerie.. . 246 

Sages-Femmes.. . . 82 

Saint Cloud, Railroad to 6, 505 
—Vehicles to. 9 

—Denis, Vehicles to. 9, 507 


_ . PAGE 

—Denis, Maison Royale de. 85 
—Germain, Railroad. 6, 515 
—Germain, Vehicles to. . 9 

—Jacques de laBoucherie. 265 
Sainte Chapelle. . . 299 

—Perine, Institution de. 192 
Salaries of Cardinals and 
Prelates. . . .95 

Salles d’Asile. , . .85 

Salle des AneStres. . . 230 

—Bonne Nouvelle. . . 236 

—des Menus Plaisirs. , 2 18 
—du Zodiaque. . . 229 

Salon Denoyez. . . 471 

—de Figures. . . . 469 

—du Feu Eternel. . ,471 

—de Mars. . . .499 

—Valentino. . . .468 

Salpelriere, Hospice de la. 439 
Salt, Entrepot for. . . 254 

Sapeurs Pompiers. . 46, 212 
Savings’ Bank. . . . J06 

Savonnerie, la.. . f' ; . 43 s 

Scales, Barometrical and 
Thermometrical. , . 28 

Sceaux, Vehicles to. . 9 

—Railroad to . . . 499 

Schools, see Ecoles. 

—and Colleges. . , 78 

—Adult.84 

—Charity. ... 84 

—Infant.85 

—Special. . .80 

—Number of Pupils in. 85 n. 
School, Blind. . . .357 

—Deaf and Dumb. . .423 

—of Law. . . 76 , 410 

—of Medicine. . x, 76, 401 
—of Midwifery. . . 82 

—of Pharmacy. . 81, 435 
—of Veterinary Medicine. 81 
477 

Sciences, Faculty of. . 75 

Scientific Institutions. . 70 

—Societies. . . . 87 
Sculpture, Ateliers de. . 352 
—Assyrian. . . .171 

—Egyptian. . . .230 

Secours aux Noyes, etc. 55 
—a Domicile. . . .102 

Seine, the River. . . 38 

Seminaire des Irlandais . 420 



INDEX. 


584 - 


page 

—des Missions Etrangeres. 93 

—Petit. 93 

—du St. Esprit. . 93, 421 

—de St. Firmin. . . 406 

—de St. Nicolas du Char- 
donnet. . . 93, 407 

—de St. Sulpice. . 93 , 385 
Sentimental Journey, site 
of one of the scenes in. 371 
Servants. . . . 15, .69 

Sewers, Common. , .121 

Shooting. . . C 8 

Sisters of Charity, Romish. 92 
—Protestant. . . .103 

Situation of Paris. . . 36 

Skaiting. 475 

Slaughter-Houses. 115,200, 
216, 277, 355, 438. 
Smoking-Houses. . .17 

Snuff-Manufactory. .351 
Social Statistics. . .110 

Societies, Benevolent. 101 to 
105 

—Scientific, Literary, etc. 88 
Sooietedes Accouchements 9 t 
—d’Agriculture. . . 91 

—Allemande de Bienfai- 

sance.103 

—d’Amelioration des Pri¬ 
sons. . . , .62 

—des Amis des Arts. . 89 
—des Anns de l’Enfance. 83 
—Analomique. . . 90 

—des Antiquaires . . 87 

—des Archilectes. . . 92 

—Asiatique. . . .92 

—Biblique Francaise et 
Etrangere . ' , .95 

—Biblique Proleslante. . 94 
—des Bibliophiles . . 8 S 

—du Caveau. . . .91 

—du Cercle des Conferen¬ 
ces Horticoles. . . 87 

—de Chimie Medicale. . 92 
—de Chirurgie. . . 90 

—d’Education Progressive. 88 
—d’Education et des Me- 
thodes d’Enseignemenl. 92 
—d’Encouragement pour 
Pamelioration des Races 
de Chevaux. . . 474 

—pour l’Encouragement 


PAGE 

de Plndustrie Natio- 

nale. 91 

—pour l’Encouragement 
de l’Jnstruction Pri- 
maire (Protestante). . 95 
—des Enfanls d’Apollon. 90 
—Entomologique. . . 87 

— Ethnologique. . . 90 

—Evangelique de France. 95 
-des Gens de Lettres. . 88 
-de Geographie. . . 88 

-Geologique de France. 88 
-Grammaticale. . . 92 

Helvetique. . . .103 

-de l’Histoire de France. 88 
-Historique . . .89 

-d’Horticulture, ... 91 
-pour 1’Instruction Ele- 
mentaire. . . .92 

Libre des Beaux-Arts. 88 
•Maternelle . . .101 

de la Morale Chretienne. 104 
de Medecine de Paris. 89 
de Medecine Pralique. 90 
—Medicale d’Emulation. 92 
—Medico-Pratique. . . 92 

—Medico-Philanlhropique. 90 
—des Methodes d’Ensei- 
gnement. . . .92 

—des Missions Evangeli- 
ques. . . . .95 

—des Missions Etrangeres. 93 
—d’Ohservation. . . 90 

—Orientale. . . .91 

—de Patronage des Jeu- 
nesliberes. . . .62 

—de Patronage pour les 
Jeunes Filles liberees. 62 
—de Pharmacie. . . 92 

—Philanthropique. . . 101 

—Philomatique. . . 87 

—Philolechnique. . . 89 

—Phrenologique. . . 90 

—des Progres Agricoles. 92 
—Proteslante de Secours 
Mutuels. . . .103 

—de la Providence. . 104 

—des Salles d’Asile. . 85 

—de Secours Mutuels en- 
tre Ouvriers. . .107 

—Sericole. ... 92 
—pour le Soulagement et 


INDEX. 


585 


PAGE 

la Delivrance ties Pri- 
sonniers. *. . .62 

—of St. Francis de Regis. 104 
—Statistique. . L . 88 
—ties Traites Religieux. . 95 
Society. See Societe. 

—Parisian Medical. . . 90 

Sceurs de la Charite. 93, 103 
Soirees, Diplomatic, etc. ix 
Soirees Myslerieuses de 
Robert Houdin. . . 4G8 

—Panoramatiques, Fantas- 
magoriques. . . 467 

Sorbonne, the. 75, 79, 141, 395 
Sourds-Muets, . . . 423 

Souriciere, the. . . 297 

Speclacles-Concerls. 23G, 467 
Squares, see Places. 

Stables, the King’s. . 179, 199 
—the Duchess of Orleans’. 200 
Staffs, Military. . .45 

Stages, Coaches, etc. . 2, 7 
Stamp Office. . . 54, 212 

Slate, Council of. . .41 

Statistics of Paris, Social. 110 
—Physical. . . . no 

Statue of Henri IV. 292, 331 
—of Louis XIII. . . 290 

—of Louis XIV. . 234, 329 

—of Duke of Orleans. . 161 
Steam Boats. ... 7 

—Packets from England. 2 
Streets and houses. . 116 

—Interesting to Antiqua¬ 
rians. . . 269, 362, 408 

Students. Graduation of 
Medical. . . . x 

Students, university, num¬ 
ber of, and sums receiv¬ 
ed for their .education. 77 
79 n. 

Subsistances militaires. . 191 
Suspension-bridges. 284, 314, 
318, 333, 350 

Swimming Schools. 127, 320 
Swiss Collage. . . 352 

Swiss Protestant Church. 94 
Synogogues, Jewish. 95, 259 
Tables of French coin re¬ 
duced to English. . 20 
—of French weights, mea¬ 


sures, etc., compared 


PAGE 


with English 


25 


—of Barometrical and 
Thermometrical scales. 28 
—of Kings of France. . 145 
—of Posting Charges. . 5 

Talleyrand, former resi- 
dence of. 183 

Tapestry Manufactory. . 437 
Tariff of the Octroi and 
Entrance Duliesof Paris. 110 
Taxes of Paris. . .no 
Telegraphs. . . 7 , 43 

Temple, Couvent du. . 261 
—Palais du. . . 260 

Tennis Courts. . .469 

Theatres. . . .454 

—Heceipls of. . .455 

—Statistics of. . . 455 rc. 

—Sum levied on Receipts 
of, for I he Hospitals. . 455 
—of the Banlieue. . 457 , 468 
Theatre de l’Ambigu Co¬ 
in ique. . . 255, 465 

—de I’Academie Royalede 
Musique. . . . 457 

—des Balignolles. . . 468 

—de Beaumarchais. 289, 467 
—de Belleville. . . 468 

—Cirque National. . . 466 

—de M. Comte. . .467 

—des Delassements Comi- 
ques. . . . .467 

—des Folies Dramaliques. 466 
—Francais. . . 175 , 460 

—Francais (second). . 461 
—Funambules. . . 467 

—de la Gaiete. . . 465 

—Grenelle. . . .468 

—Gymnase. . . . 403 

—Hippodrome. 9, 196, 466 
—Historique. . . 258, 462 

—des Italiens. . . 212 , 459 

—du Luxembourg. . 392, 467 

—de Montmartre . . 468 

—de Mont Parnasse. . 468 

—de l’Odeon. . . 385, 461 

—de l’Opera Comique. 219, 460 
—du Palais Royal. . 176, 464 
—du Petit Lazary. . . 467 

—Porte St. Martin. . 255, 465 
—du Ranelagh. . . 468 



586 


INDEX, 


PAGE 

—Seraphin, . . .468 

—St. Marcel. . . .467 

—des Varietes. . 219, 464 

—du Vaudeville. . 220 , 464 

Theology, Faculty of. 75, 77n. 

Thermes, Palais des. . 398 

Thermometric Scales. . 28 

Thiers, residence of M. .216 
Tickets, form of letter to 
obtain, when required, iv 
Timbre Royal. . . 54 , 212 

Tivoli (Nouveau). . . 470 

Tobacco, Manufacture of. 351 
—Sale of. . . .114 

Tomb of Casimir, King of 

Poland. . . .370 

—of a daughter of King 
John. . . . 322 w. 

—of Cardinal Richelieu. 396n. 
—of James II. . 419, 424, 514 
—ofJamesDukeofDouglas 369 
—of Lafayette. . . 284 

—of Napoleon. . . 348n. 

—of Rousseau. . .415 

—of the Victims. . . 431 

—of Voltaire. . . .415 

Tortoni’s Coffee-house. . 219 
Tour Bichat, or de St. Jean 
de Lateran. . . . 409 

—St. Jacques de la Bou- 

dierie.26 5 

—de Nesle, site of. . . 375 

Tradesmen, list of. . . 553 

—Licences of. . . U 2 n. 

Traiteurs. . , .15 

Travelling in France. 2 to 9 
Treasury Royal. . .182 

—ot the City of Paris. . 52 
Tribunals. . . .47 

Tribunal de Commerce. . 49 
—of Municipal Police. . 49 
—of Premiere Instance. . 49 
Tribunaux de Paix. . . 49 

Triumphal Arches. 142, 155, 
192, 249, 255, 289 
—Columns. 142, 180, 248, 283 


PAGE 

Troops, French. . • 45 

Tuileries, Palace of the. . 146 
—Court of the. , ,155 

—Garden of the. . 152, 475 
—Interior of the. . , 148 

Turrets, ancient. 244, 274, 276, 
323, 403 

University of France. 74, 77 
Val de Grace, Church of. 433 
—Hospital of the. . . 433 

Valets de Place. • . 15 

Vehicles, Public. . 3 , 7 , 9 

Venetian Bridges. . 277, 289 

Versailles Railroads. 6 , 541, 
542 

—Vehicle^ to. , . . 9 

Veterinary School. . .477 

—Schools, cost of. . 478 m. 

Velturini. ... 6 

Victoria Hotel. . .212 

Vincennes. Vehicles to. . 9 

Visitation de Ste. Marie. . 94 
Voitures de Remise. . 7 

Voltaire, where he died. 381 

—Burial-place of. . . 415 

Wages in Paris, . .113 

Walks, Public. . . 475 

Water Conveyances. . 7 

Water-Cresses, quantity. 

of, brought into Paris. Il 5 n. 
Water, supply of. . . 123 

—Establishment for puri¬ 
fication of. . . . 322 

Wax Work. . . .469 

Weights, French and Eng¬ 
lish, compared. . 23, 24 

—ancient. . . 2 2 n. 

Wesleyan Chapel. . . 94 

Wharfs or Ports. . . hg 

Wills.. 

Wine Market. . . .441 

Witnesses. . . .57 

Work Societies. . . 104 

Zoology, gallery of. . 445 
Zodiaque, Salle du. . . 229 


INDEX. 


587 


ENVIRONS 


PAGE 

Alfort . . . .477 

—the Veterinary School of. 477 

Arcueil.478 

— Aqueduct of. . .124 

Argenteuil. . . .478 

Arnouville. . . .478 
Asnieres . . . .478 

Auteuil.478 

Baqneux . . . 478 

Belleville. . . . 478 

—Aqueduct of. . .124 

Bellevue. . . .478 

Bercy. . . . 284, 478 

Berny.479 

BicStre.479 

Bourg-la-Reine. . . 480 

Buc. .... 480 

Chantilly.480 

Cbarenton. . . .481 

Chatenay. . . . 482 

Choisy-le-Roi. . . 482 

Cloud, St. ... 601 
Colombes. . . . 482 

Compiegne. . . . 482 

Corbeil. .... 483 
Denis, St. ... 607 
Enghien-les-Bains. . . 483 

Erinenonville. . . . 483 

Fontainebleau. . . 484 


—best mode of visiting, v 

Crenelle.492 

Maisons Laffitte. . . 492 

Malmaison. . . . 492 

Marly. . . . . 493 

Meudon .... 493 
Mont Calvaire. . . .494 


OF PARIS. 



PAGE 

Montmartre. 

. 494 

Montmorency. . 

. 496 

Mortefontaine. . 

. 495 

Nanlerre. 

. 495 

Neuilly. . 

. 495 

Passy. 

. 497 

Pecq. 

. 497 

Poissy. 

. 497 

Pont de St. Maur 

. 497 

Pre St. Gervais. 

477; 497 

—Aqueduct of. 

. 125 

Rainey. 

. 497 

Rambouillet. . 

. 498 

Reuil. 

. 498 

Romainville. . 

. 499 

—Aqueduct of. 

. 125 

St. Cloud. . . 6, 

7, 9, 501 

—Cyr. 

. 506 

—Denis. . 

. 507 

—Germain-en-Laye. 

. 513 

—Maur. . 

. 497 

—Ouen. . 

. 515 

Sceaux. , 

. 499 

Sevres. 

. 500 

Suresne . 

. 515 

Trianon, Grand. 

. 539 

—Petit. 

. 540 

Versailles. 

. 516 

—Best mode of visitin 

O' v 

5* v 

—Chapel of. 

. 524 

—Gardens of. . 

. 534 

—Museum of . 

. 521 

—Palace of. 

. 518 

—Town of. 

. 541 

Villette, la. 

. 543 

Vincennes. 

. 544 










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LIST OF THE STREETS, SQUARES, ETC,, I PARIS, 


EXPLANATION. 

The capital letter and figure placed after the name of the street in¬ 
dicates the part of the Map in which it is found; for example, if you 
wish to find rue Biron, D. G., draw your finger down under the letter D, 
from the top of the Map, till it arrives opposite the figure 6, between 
the lines of which is rue Biron. 

The figure placed before the name of a street indicates that it is 
traced in the Map, but its name could not be given for want of room. 

A stai added to the letter and figure (*) denotes that, on account of 
the small size of the Map, there is neither name nor trace of it given. 


Abattoirs (des), E. l 
Abbaye (de 1’), D. 4. 

1 Abbaye (place del’), D.4. 
Abbaye St.-Martin (pas¬ 
sage de 1’), E. 3. 

Abbe de l’Epee(deP), 
D. 5. 

Acacias (des), B. 5. C. 4. 
Agucsseau (d’), C. 2. 

2 Aguesseau (marche et 

passage d’), pres de la 
Madeleine, C. 2. 
Aiguillerie (de 1’), E. 3. 
Albouy, F. 2- 
Albret (Cour d’), rue des 
Sept-Voies, E. 5. 
Alexandre (St-), enclos 
de la Trinite, E. 3.* 
Alger (d’), C. D. 3. 
Alibert, F. 2. 

Aligre (d’), G. 4. 5. 
Aligre (passage d’), R. 
Baillet, D. 3. 

Amandiers - Popincourt 
(des), G. 3. 

Amandiers (des), Sainte- 
Genevi^ve, E. 5. 
Amandiers (barri£re 
des), G. 3. 

Amandiers (pass, des), 
G. 3. 

Amboise (d’), D. 2. 
Amboise (imp.), place 
Maubert, E. 4. 

Ambroise Pare, E. 2. 


Ambroise (impasse et 
passage Si-), G. 3. 
Ambroise tSt-), G. 3. 
Amelie, B. 3. 

Amelot. F. 3. 4. 
Amsterdam (d’). C. 1. 
Anastase (St-), F. 3. 
Ancien cliemin de Ver¬ 
sailles (P), A. 2. 
Ancien-Grand Cerf(pas¬ 
sage de I’). E. 3. 
Ancienne-Comedie (de 
1’). D. 4. 

Ancre Royale (passage 
de 1’), E. 3. 

Andre-des-Arts (St-), 
D. 4. 

Andre-des-Arts (place 
St-), D. 4 

Anes <cour aux), D. 1. 
Angivilliers (d’), D. 3. 
Anglade (de l’j, D. 3. 
Anglais (des), E. 4. 

4 Anglais (impasse des), 
rue Beaubourg, E. 3. 

Anglaises (des), E. 6. 
Angouleme (d’), F. 3. 

A ngouleme (passage d’), 
G. 2. 3. 

5 Angouleme (place d’), 

1'aub. du Temple, F. 3. 
Angouleme - St-Honore, 

B. 2. 

Anjou-St-Honore (d’), 

C. 2. 


Anjou (d’), au Marais, 

F. 3. 

Anjou-Dauphine (d’), 

D. 4. 

Anjou (quai d’), E. F. 4. 
Anne (Ste-), St-Honor6, 
D. 2. 3. 

Anne (Ste-), quai des 
Ortevres, D. E. 4 
Antin (cite d’). D. 2. 
Antin (d’). D 2. 

Antin (allee d’). B. 2. 3. 
Antoine (St-), E. F. 4. 
Antoine (passage St.-), 

G. 4. 

Antoine (p! St-),E. F.4. 
Antoine (boulevard St-), 
F. 3. 4. 

Antoine (du faub. St-), 
F. G. H. 4 

Apolline (Ste-), E. 2. 
Apport-Paris (place de 
1’), St-Denis-au-ChtUe- 
let, E. 3.* 

Aqueduc (de P), C. D. l. 
Arbal&ie (de 1’), E. 5. 
Arbre-Sec (de P), D. 3. 
Arcade (de 1’), C. 2. 
Arche-Marion (de P), 
pr£s le Pont-Neuf, D. 3. 
Arche-Pepin, id., E. 3. 
ArchevSche (quai de P), 

E. 4. 

ArchevOche (pontde P), 

E. 4. 


1 









0 


Arehe-St.-Pierre (pas¬ 
sage), prfes le Pom- 
Neat', E. 3.* 

Arcis (des), E. 4. 

Arcole (pont d’), E. 4. 
Arcole (rue d'), E. 4. 
Arcueil (barriere d’), 

D. 6. 

8 Argenson (impasse d’), 

Vieiile rue du Temple, 

E, 4. 

Argenteuil (d’), D. 3. 
Argeuteuil (impasse d’), 

C. 2. 3. 

Ariane (place d’), Halle 
au poisson, E. 3.* 

Arras (d’A E. 5. 

Arsenal (cour et passage 
de P), F. 4. voy. de 
I’Orme. 

9 Arts (des), enclos de la 

Trinite, E. 3. 

Asile (de P), F. G. 3. 
Assas (d’), G. 4. 

Astorg (d’J, C. 2. 
Athenes (passage d’), 
ll. 3 . 

10 Aubert (passage), Saint- 

Denis, E. 2. 

Aubry-le-Boucher, E. 3. 

11 Audrelas (imp. d’), E. 6. 
Augustins (quai des), 

D. 4. 

Aumaire, E. 3 . 

13 Aumaire (passage), E. 3. 
Aurnale (cP). D. i. 

14 Aumont(imp.d'),ruedc 

l’Hotel-de-Ville, E. 4. 
Aunay(barriered’),H. 3 . 
Austerlitz, B. 3. 
Austerlitz (d’), F. G, 
Austerlitz (quai d’), F. 
5. 6. 

Austerlitz (pontd’),F. 5. 
Aval (d’), F. 4. 

Avenues (voir chaque 
nom). 

Aveugles (Jeunes-), (in¬ 
stitution des), c. 5. 
Avignon (d’), E 3, 

Avoye (Ste-), E. 3 . 

15 Babillards (imp, des), 

porte St-Denis, E. 2. 
Babille, D. 3. 

Babylone (de), C. 4. 

Bac (du), C. 3. 4. 
Bagneux (de), C. 5. 
Baillet, Arbre-Sec, E. 3. 
Bailleul, E. 3. 

Baillif, D. 3. 


LIST OF THE STREETS, 


Bailly, enclos St-Martin, 
E. 3, 

16 Bains (passage des), en 
face la rue Pavee, F. 4. 
Ballets (des), F. 4 . 
Banque de Fr ance. D. 3. 
Banque (de la), D. 2 . 3 . 
Banquier (du), E. 6 . 
Barbe (Ste-), E, 2 . 
Barbet de Jouy, G. 4. 
Barbette, F. 3 . 

Barillerie (de la), E. 4. 
Barnabites (cour des), 
Palais-de-Justice, E. 4 . 
Barometre (galerie du), 
un des passages de l’O- 
pera, D 2 . 

BarouillSre (de la), C. 5 . 
Barre-du-Bec, E. 3 . 
Barres (des), quai de la 
Greve, E. 4. 

Barres (des), F. 4. 
Barriere des Gobelins 
(de la), E. F. 6 . 
Barriere St-Denis (de 
la), E. 1 . 

Barrois (passage), E. 3. 
Barthelemy, B. 5 . 
Basfour-St-Denis (im¬ 
passe), E. 3 . 

Bastroid, G. 4 . 
Basse-St-Pierre, a Chad- 
lot, A. 3 . 

Basse-du-Rempart, C. 
D. 2. 


17 


Basse-des-Ursins, E. 4. 

Bassins (des), ou Reser¬ 
voirs, barridre, A. 2 . 

Bassompierre, F. 4 . 

Bastille (pi. de la), F. 4 . 

Basville, cour duHarlay, 
au Palais, D. 4. (Pas¬ 
sage.)* 

Batailles (des), A. 3 . 

Batave (cour etpassage), 

E. 3. 


Battoir-St-Andre (du) 

D. 4. V " 

Battuir (du) St-Victor, 

E. 5. 


Baudin (impasse), C. 2 . 
18 Baudoyer (place), E. 4. 
Bayard, A. 4 . 

Bayard, ville de Fran¬ 
cois I er , B. 2 . 3. 

Bazar dePlndustrie,D. 2 . 
Beaubourg, E. 3 . 

Beauce (de), F. 3 . 

Beaucourt (avenue), B.l. 

Beaudoirie (imp. de la), 
rue Beaubourg, E. 3 , 


19 Beaufort (passage et im¬ 

passe), E. 3. 
Beaujolais, Palais-Roval, 
D. 3. 

Beaujolais, Palais-Royal 
(passage), D. 3. 
Beaujolais, au Marais, 
F 3 

20 Beaujolais, St-Honore, 
D. 3. 

Beaujon (cite), A. B. 2. 
Beaujon (place N'euve), 

Beaujon, A. B. 2 . 

Beaune (de), G. D. 3. 
Beauregard, E. 2 . 
Beauregard (ruelle),D.l. 
Beaurepaire, E. 3. 
Beaurepaire (cite), E. 3 . 
Beautreillis (de), F. 4 . 
Beauveau (place), fau¬ 
bourg St-Honore, C. 2- 
Beauveau(de), faubourg 
St-Antoine, G. 4 . 5 . 
Beauveau (rnarehe), fau¬ 
bourg St-Antoine, G. 4. 
Beauvilliers (pass, de), 
rue Richelieu, D. 3 . 
Beaux-Arts (des), D. 4. 
Beccaria, G. 5 . 

Bel-Air (aven. du), H. 5. 
l84Bel-Air (cour du), F. 4. 
Bellart, B. 5 , 
Belle-Chasse(de),C. 3 . 4 . 
Belle-Ghasse (pi.), C. 3 . 
Bellefond (de), E. 1 . 
Belleville (barriere), G. 

Bellidvre, F. 6 . 

Bel llespiro (de), A. 2 . 
Belzunce, E, i. 

Benoit (St-), faubourg 
St-Germain, D. 4 . 
Benoit (carref. St-),pres 
la rue Taranne, D. 4 .‘ 
Benoit (St), enclos St- 
Martin, E. 3 .* 

21 Benoit (passage et place 

St-), St-Jacques, E. 4 . 

22 Benoit (passage Saint-), 
place de l’Abbaye-St- 
Germain, D. 4 . 

Benoit (impasse St-), rue 
des Arcis, E. 3 .* 

Bercy (de), au Marais, 
Marche-St-Jean, E. 4 . 
Bercy (de), faubourg St- 
Antoine, F. 4 . 5 . G. 5 . 
Bercy (barriere de),G. 5. 
Bercy (pontde), G. 6 . 
Berg^re, D. E. 2 . 






BergSre (cite), D. E. 2 . 
Berg^re (gal.), rue Geof- 
froy-Marie, D. 2 . 
Berlin (de), C. 1 . 
Bernard (St-), G. 4. 
Bernard (impasse St-) 
St-Antuine, G. 4 . 
Bernard (St-), quai et 
port au Vin, voy. quai 
de la Rapee, F. G. 6. 
Bernardins (des), E. 4 . 
Bernardins (passage et 
cloitre des), E. 4. 

Berry (de), F. 3 . 
Bertaud (impasse), rue 
Beaubourg, E. 3. 
Bertin-Poiree, E. 3, 
Bertin-Poiree (place), E 
4. 

Bethfzy, D, E. 3. 

Bethune (quai), E. F. 4 . 
Beurriere, D. 4 . 
Bibliotheque (dela),D. 3 . 
Bichat, F. 2 . 

Bicbes (du pont aux). 
St-Marcel, E. 5 . 
Biches(dupontaux), St- 
Martin, E. 2. 

Biches (du pont aux), 
impasse. E. 2 . 
Bienfaisance (de la), B 
C. 1. ' ‘ 

Bi£vre (de), E. 4. 

23 BiAvre (de), pont, quai 
1 Hopital, F. 5. 

24 Billard (passage du), E. 
4. (du Marche-Neuf h 

la rue de la Calandre) 
Billettes (des), E. 3. 

Billy (quai de), A. 3. 

24 Birague (place de), F, 4 
Biron, D. 6. 

Bizet, A. 2. 3. B. 3. 

Bizet (impasse), A. 2 . 3. 
Blanche, D. 1 . 

Blanche (barriere), D. 1 . 
Blanchisseuses (impass 
des), A. 2 . 3. B. 2 , 
Blancs-Manteaux (des), 
E. 3 . 

Blancs-Manteaux (mar- 
cbe des), F. 3 . 

Ble (port au), E. 4. 

Bleue. E. 1 . 2 . 

Bleus (cour des), E. 3. 
voy. passage de la Tri- 
nite. 

Bochart de Sarron, D. 1 
26 Boeuf (impasse du), rue 
Neuve-St-Merri, E. 3 . 
Boeufs (impasse des), 


SQUARES, ETC., IN PARIS. 

montagne Ste-Gene¬ 
vieve, E. 4. 


Bois-de-Boulogne (pass, 
fin), porte St-Denis, 
E. 2 . ’ 

Bon (St-), E. 3. 
Bon-Puits (du), E. 4 . 5 . 

27 Bon-Puiis (impasse du) 
E. 5, rue Traversine. 

Bondy (de), E. F. 2 . 
Bonne-Foi (passage), au 
Caire, E. 2 .* 
Bonne-Graine (passage 
de la), G. 4. 

Bonne-Nouvelle (boule¬ 
vard), E. 2 . 
Bonne-Nouvelle (bazar), 
E. 2 . 

Bonne-Nouvelle (mar- 
che), E. 2 . 

Bons EnCants(des),D. 3 . 

28 Bous-Enfants (passage 

des), Palais-Royal, D. 3 . 
Bons-Hommes, a Passy, 
A. 3 . 

29 Borda,enclosSt Martin, 

E. 3. 

Bordeaux (de), Halle aux 

vins, E, 5. 

30 Bossuet (de), E. 4. 
Bossuet (de), E. 1 . 
Boucher, D. 3 . 

Boucherat (de), F. 3. 

31 Boucherat (carrefour 
de), F. 3 . 

Boucherie-des-Invalides 

(de la), B. 3. 

Boucheries (des), faub. 
St-Germain, voy. Ecole 
de Medecine (de 1 ’), 

D. 4. 

Boudreau, C. 2 . 

Boufflers (avenue), B. 4 . 
Boufflers (cite), F. 3 . 
Boulainvilliers (mar- 
che), rue du Bac, C. 3 . 
Boulangers (des), E. 5 . 
Boule-Blanche (passage 
de la) faubourg Saint- 
Antoine, F. G. 4.* 
Boule-Rouge (de la), D. 

E. 2. 

Boulets (des), G. H. 4 . 
Boulogne (de), C. D. 1 . 
Bouloi (du), D. 3. 

Bouquet des Champs, 

A. 3. 

Bouquet deLongchamps, 

A. 3. 

32 Bourbon-le-Chateau , 

D. 4. 


Bourbon (quai), E. 4 . 
Bourbon-Villeneuve(de), 

Bourdaloue, D. 1 . 
Bourdin (impasse), B. 2. 
Bourdon (boulev ), F. 4. 
Bourdonnais(des), E. 3. 

33 Bourdonnais (impasse 
des), E, 3. 

Bourdonnaye (la), B. 4. 
Bourdonnave(avenuede 
la), A. 3. B. 4. 
Bourg-l’Abbe, E. 3. 
Bourg-l'Abbe (passage), 
E. 3. 

Bourgogne (de), C. 3. 4. 
Bourgogne (de), Halle 
aux vins, E F. 5. 
Bourgogne (cour de), 
G. 4. 

Bourguignons (des), D. 

5. E. 6 

Boursault, D. 1 . 

Bourse (de la), D. 2. 
Bourtibourg, E. 3. 4. 
Boutebrie, E. 4. 
Bouteille (impasse de 
la), rue Montorgueil, 
E. 3. 

34 Bouvart (impasse), pres 

la place Cambrai, E. 4. 
Bouvines (de), E. 1. 
Boyauterie (barriere de 
la), F. 1 . 

Boyenval ou Cr. Bois¬ 
siere (impasse), A. 3. 
Brady (passage), faub. 
St.-Denis, E. 2. 

Braque (de), E. 3. 
Bras-d’Or(cour du),G. 4. 
Brasserie (impasse de 
la), cour St-Guillaume, 
D. 3. 

Breda, D. t. 

Bretagne (de), F. 3. 
Bretagne (cour de), F. 
G. 2. 

35 Breteuil (de), enclos St- 
Martin, E. 3. 

Breteuil (place), B. 5. 
Breteuil (avenue de), B. 

4. 5. 

Bretonvilliers, E. F. 4. 
Briare (impasse), D. 1. 
Brisemiche, E. 3. 

Brissac, F. 4. 

Brodeurs (des), C. 4. 
Bruant, F. 6. 

Bruxelles (de), C. D. 1. 
Bficherie (de la), E. 4. 
Buffault, D. 1 . 2. 











4 


Buffon, E. F. 5. 

Buisson St-Louis (du), 
F. G. 2. 

Bussy (de), D. 4. 

36 Bussy (carrefour de), 
D. 4. 

Butte Chaumont (de la), 
F. i. 

Buttes (des), H. 5. 
Buvette-Champetre(ruel- 
le de la), B. 2. 

Byron (avenue Lord-), 

A. B. 2. 

Cadet, D. 2 . 

Cadet (place), D. 1. 
Cadran (du), E. 1.2. 
Cafarelli, au Temple, 
voy. de la Rotonde, 
F. 3. 

Cafe-de-Fov (pass, du), 
Palais-Royal, D. 3. 
Cafe-de-Malte (passage 
du), porteet boulevard 
St-Martin, E. 2 .* 

Caire (du), E. 2. 

Caire (place et passage 
du), ou Foire, E. 2. 
Calais (de), D. i. 
Calandre (de la), E. 4. 
Cambrai (place), E. 4. 
CampagnePremidre.D.5. 
Canal St-Georges (du), 
D i. 

Canal Sl-Martin(du),F.i. 
Canettes (des), D. 4. 

37 Canivet(du),pr6sSaint- 

Sulpice, D. 4. 

Capreau, & Vaugirard, 

B. 5. 

Capucines (boulev. des), 

C. D. 2. 

Capucins (rue et place 
des), D. 5. 6. 

38 Cardinale, pres de PAb- 

baye. D. 4. 

39 Cargais<>ns (des), E. 4. 
Cargaisons (imp. des), 

idem. E. 4.* 

Carmes (des), E. 4. 
Carmelites (imp. des), 

D. 5. 

40 Caron, prfes de la place 

Royale, F. 4. 

Carpentier, D. 4. 

Carre des Jeux(Champs- 
Elysees), B. 2. 3. 

Carre Marigny(id.), B. 2. 
Carrousel (du), D. 3. 
Carrousel (place du), 

D. 3. 


LIST OF THE STREETS, 

Carrousel (pent du), D. 
S.roy. Pont desSaints- 
Pbres. 

41 Carre-Sainte-Genevifeve 
(place du), E. 5. 
Carreau-de-la-Halle (pi. 
du), E. 3.* 

Carrieres (des), aChail- 
lot, A. 3. 

Casimir Perier, C. 3. 
Cassette, D. 4. 

Cassini. D 6. 

Castellane, C. 2. 

Castex. F. 4. 

Castiglione (de). C. 2. 3. 
Catherine-d’Enfer(Ste-), 
D. 5. 

Catherine (marche et 
place de Ste-), St-An- 
toine, F. 4. 

Catherine (imp. et cour 
Ste-), au Caire, E. 2. 
Catinat, D. 3. 

Caumartin (de), C. 2. 
Celestins(quai des),F. 4. 
Cendrier (du), E. 6. 
Cendrier (passage et im¬ 
passe du), D. 2. 

Censier, E. 5. 

Centre (du), B. 2. 
Cerisaie (de la), F. 4. 
Chabannais (de), D. 2. 
Chabrol (de), E. F. l. 
Chaillot(de),A. 2 . 3. B. 2 . 
Chaise (de la), C. 4. 
Chambre des Deputes 
(place de la), C. 3. 
Champagne (de), Halle 
aux Vins, E. 5. 

Champ - de - l’Alouette 
(du). E 6. 

Champ-de-Mars, A. 3 . 

B. 4 

Champs (des), A. 3. 
Champs-Elysees (des), 

C. 2. 

Champs-£lysees(avenue 
des), A. 2 . C. 3- 
Chanaleilles, C. 4. 

Change (pont au), E. 3. 
Chanoinesse, E. 4. 
Chantereine, voy. de la 
Victoire, D. 2. 

Chantier (passage du), 

F. G. 4. 

Chantier-de-l’£cu(pass. 
du), Chaussee-d’Antin, 

C. 2.* 

Chantier-de-Tivoli, D. 

1 . 2 * 

Chantiers (des), E. 4. 


Chantre (du), D. 3. 

42 Chantres (des), E 4. 

43 Chapelle (de la), F. 1. 
Chapelle(delaSte-),E 4. 
Chapel le(cour de laSte-), 

au Palais, E. 4. 
Chapon. E. 3. 

Chaptal, D t. 
Charbonuiers(des), fau- 
bourgSt-Antoine, G. 5. 
Charbonniers (des), fau¬ 
bourg St-Marceau, E. 
5. 6. 

Charbonniers (impasse 
des), St-Antoine, G. 5. 
Charenton (de), F. 4. G. 
4. 5. H. 6. 

Charenton (barr. de), 
H. 5. 

Chariot-d’Or (cour du), 
G. 4. 

Chariot-d’Or (pass.du), 
rue Greneta, E. 3.* 
Charite (de la), Foire- 
St-Laurent, E 2. 
Charlemagne, F. 4. 
Charlemagne (passage), 
F. 4. 

45 Charles (pont St-), E. 4. 

Fait parlie de l’Hotel- 
Dieu. 

Chariot, F. 3. 

Charnier des Innocents 
(passage du), rue St- 
Denis, E. 3. 

Charonne (de), G. H. 4. 
Charte(de la),B.2. voy. 
d’Angouleme. 

Chancre. E. 4. 5. 
Chartres (de), place du 
Carrousel, D. 3. 
Chartres (de), barr. de 
Courcelles, B i. 
Chartres (gal. de), Pa¬ 
lais-Royal, D. 3. 

46 Chartreux(passagedes), 

St-Eustache, E. 3. 

47 Chat-Blanc (imp. du), 

place du Chatelet, E. 3. 

48 Chat-qui-Peche (du), 

ruedelaHueheile, E. 4. 
Chateaubriant (avenue), 

A. B. 2. 

Chateau-Landon, F. 1 . 
Chatelet (place du),E. 3. 
Chatillon, F. i. 

Chauchat, D. 2. 

Chaudron (du), F. 1 . 
Chaume (du), E. 3. 
Chaumi^re (jardin de 
la), D. 5. 






(de 


Chaussee-d’Aiuin 
la), D. i. Q. 

Chaussee-des-Minimes 
(de la), F. 3 . 4 
Ch a ussee-d 11 - M ai n e(ave- 
mie de la), C. 5. 
Chaussee-du-Maine(im- 
passe). C. 5. 

Chausson (passage), F. 2. 
Chauveau-Lagarde, C.2. 
Chemin de fer (place 
du), E. 1 . 

Chemin de fer de Paris 
A Curbed, k Orleans et 
Tours; l’embarcadkre 
est prks le Jardin des 
Plantes. F. 5 
Chemin de fer de Paris 
k Lyon ; l’embarradere 
est boulevard Mazas, 
F. 5. 

Chemin de fer de Paris 
k St-Germain, k Rouen 
et le Havre; 1’embar- 
cadere est rue St-La- 
zare, C. 1 . 2 . 

Chemin de fer de Paris 
k Strasbourg; I’embar- 
cadere est rue Neuve- 
Chabrol, E. F. 1 . 

Chemin de fer de Paris 
k Versailles; I’embar- 
cadkrede la rive droite 
est rue St-Lazare, C 1 
2; celui de la rive gau¬ 
che est prks la barrikre 
du Maine, C. 5. 

Chemin de fer du Nord; 
l’embarcadkre est rue 
du Nord, E. l. 
Chemin-de-Pantin (du), 

F. 1. 

Chemin - de - Versailles 
(du 1 , A. 2 . 

Chemin-Vert (du), F. 

G. 3. 

Ch6ne-Vert (cour du), 

F. 4. 

Cherche-Midi, C. 4. 5. 
Cherubini, D. 2. 
Clicval-Blanc (passage 
du), E. 2. 

Cheval-Blanc (passage 
du), F. 4. 

49 Chevalier-du-Guet,(du), 

E. 3. 

50Chevalier-du-Guet,(place 
et impasse), E. 3. 

Chevaux (marche aux), 
b. de l’Hopital, E. F. 5. 
Chevert, B. 4. 


SQUARES, ETC., IN PARIS. 


O 


Chevreuse, D. 5 . 

52 Childebert, D. 4. 
Chilperic, 1). 3. 
Choiseul, D. 2 . 

Choiseul (passage), D. 2 . 
Chopinette(de la) F. 2 . 
Chopineite (barriere de 

la), G. 2. 

Choux (pont aux), F. 3. 
Christine, D. 4. 
Christnphe (St-), E. 4. 

53 Cimetikre-Saint-Benoit, 
E. 4. 

Cimetikre - St- Nicolas, 
E 3. 

Cinq -Diamants (des), 
E. 3. 

Ciseaux (des), D. 4. 

Cite (de la), E. 4. 

Cite (quai de la), E. 4. 
Cite (pont de lal, E. 4. 
Cite, ou Prado (passage 
de la), E. 4.* 

Cite d’Antin, D. 2. 

Cite Berryer, C. 2. 

Cite Bertrand, G. 3. 

Cite Josset, G. 4. 

Cite Noel, E. 3 . 
Cited’Orleans, D. 1. E.2. 
Cite Riverin, E. 2 . 

Cite St-Maur, G. 2. 

Cite Trevise, E. 2. 

56 Clairvaux(impasse),rue 
St-Martin, E. 3. 

Claude (impasse St-), au 
Marais, F. 3 . 

Claude (St-), au Marais, 
F. 3. 

Claude (St-), porte St- 
Denis, E. 2 . 

55 Claude (impasse St-), 
Montmartre, D. 3. 

Claude Vellefaux,F. 1.2. 
Clef (de la), E. 5. 

Clement, D. 4. 
Clemenl-Marot, E.9. 
Clement-St-Marcel,E. 6. 
Clery (de), E. 2. 

Clichy (de), C. D. 1 . 

Clichy ( bare, de), C. 1. 
Cloche-Perche, E. 4. 
Clnitre - Notre - Dame 
(du), E. 4. 

Cloitie, passage et im¬ 
passe de la Treille, St- 
Germain - i’Auxerrois, 

D. 3. 

Cloitre-Saint-Germain- 
l’Auxerrois, D. 3. 
Cloitre-St-Jacques-l’Hd- 
pital (du), E. 3. 


Cloitre-St-Merri, E. 3 . 

59 Cloitre-St-Honore (pas¬ 

sage), D. 3 . 

Cloure-St-Benoit (du), 

D. E.4. 

60 Cloitrc-St-Marcel, E. 6. 
Clnitre-Ste-Opportune, 

E. 3. 

Clopin (impasse), E. 5 . 
Clos-Bruneau, E. 4. 
Clos-Georgot (du), E. 3. 
Clos-Payen (passage 
du ), prks la rue de 
Lourcine, E. 6. 
Clos-Rambouillet, G. 5. 
Clotaire, E. 5. 

Clolilde, E. 5. 

Clovis, E. 5. 

Cluny (de), D. 4. 

Cluny (Hotell, rue des 
Mathurins, D, 4. 

61 Cocalrix, E 4. 

Cochin, E. 6. 

Coeur- Volant (du), D. 4. 
Colbert (de l’arcade), 

D. 2. 

62 Collegiale (place de la), 
ou Si-Mareel, E. 6. 

Colombe (de la), E. 4. 
Colonnes (des Mille), 

D. 2. 

Colysee (du), B. 2. 
Combat (barrikre du), 
F. 1. 

Comedie (passage de la), 
St-Honore, D. 3 .* 
Comestibles (passage et 
bazar des), E. 2 .* 

Com^te (de la), B. 3. 

63 Commerce (du), enclos 

de laTrinite, E. 3. 
Commerce (cour du), 
enclos de la Trinite, 

E. 3. 

Commerce (passage du), 
St-Martin. B. 3. 
Commerce (cour et pas¬ 
sage du), D. 4. 
Commerce du Roule 
(cour et passage du), 

B. 2. 

Concorde (place de la), 

C. 3. 

Concorde (pont de la), 

C. 3 . 

Conde (de), D. 4. 
Conference (quaide la), 
B.C. 3. 

Constantine, E. 4. 
Constantine (pont de) 

F. 4. 
















6 


Constantinople, C. I, 
Conte (de), enclos Saint- 
Martin, E. 3. 

Conti (quai et place de), 
D. 3. 4. 

Conti (impasse), D. 4. 

64 Contrat-Social (du),E.3. 

65 Contrescarpe-Dauphine, 

D 4. 

Contrescarpe, & l’Estra- 
pade, E. 5. 

Contrescarpe (boulev.), 
F. 4. 5. 

Copeau, E. 5. 
Coq-St-Honord, D. 3. 
Coq-St-Jean, E. 3. 4. 
Coq-Heron,D. 3. 
Coquenard, D. 1. 

66 Coquerelle (impasse), 
^ rue des Hosiers, F. 4. 

Coqullles (des), E. 3.' 
Coqnilldre, D. 3. 
Corbeau, F. 2, 
Cordelidres (des), E. 6. 
Corderie (de la Grande), 
au Temple, F. 3. 
Corderie (de la), marchd 
St-Honord, D. 2 . 
Corderie (impasse de 
la), idem, D. 2. 

67 Corderie (place de la), 

F. 3. 

Cordiers (des), D. 4. 5. 
Cordonnerie (dela),E.3. 
Corneille (de), D. 4. 
Cornes (des), E. 6. 
Corroierie (dela), E. 3. 
Cossonnerie (de la),E.3. 
Cotte, G, 4, 

68 Cour des Comptes, T). 4. 
Cour St-Jacques (marche 

dela), E. 3. 

Courbaton (impasse), St- 
Germain- l’Auxerrois, 
D. 3.* 

Courcelles (de), B. i. 2. 
Courcelles (barridre de), 

B. t. 

Couronne (passage de 
la), rue des Bourdon- 
nais, E. 3.* 

Cours, voy. leurs noms, 
Cours-la-Reine (allee 
du), B. C. 3. 

Courtalon, pres la rue 
St-Denis et place St- 
Opportune, F,. 3. 

Couriy (de), C. 3. 
Coutellerie (de la), E 3. 
Cou lures-Sainl-Gervais 
(des), F, 3. 


LIST OF THE STREETS, 

Coypel (impasse), prds 

•la rue Cadet, D. 2. 

Crehillon, D. 4. 

Cretet, D. 1. 

Crillon, F. 4. 

Croissant (du), D. E. 2. 

Croix ("de la) E. 2. 3. 

Croix-Blanche (de la), 
marche St-Jean, E. 4. 

69 Croix (Sainte-), prds le 
Palais-de-Juslice, E. 4. 

Croix-Boissidre (de la), 
a Chaillot, A. 3. 

Croix-Boissidre (im¬ 
passe de la). A. 3. 

Croix-de - la-Bretonne- 
rie (Ste-), E. 3. 

Croix-des-Petits-Champs, 
D. 3. 

Croix-Rouge (carrefour 
dela), C. D, 4. 

Croix-du-Roule (de la), 

B. 1. 

Croix-du-Trahoir (c,ar- 
refour), ruedel’Arbre- 
sec, D, 3. 

Croulebarbe (de), E. 6. 

Croulebarbe (barrifere 
de), E. 6. 

Crussol, F. 3. 

Culture-Ste-Catherine, 
F. 3. 4. 

Cunette (barricsre dela), 
A. 4. 

Cuvier, E. F. 5, 

Cygne (du), E. 3. 

Dalayrae, D. 2. 

Dames-Saint-Chaumont 
(passage des),St-Denis 
et du P’onceau, E. 2.*j 

Damiette (de), E. 2. 

Damiette(pnntde), F. 4. 

Dannoy (passage), F. 4. 

Dany (impasse), rue du 
Rocher, C. l.* 

Dauphin (du), D. 3. 

Daupbine, D. 4. 

Daupbine ( passage), 
D. 4. 

Daupbine (place), D. 4. 

Decbargeurs (des), E.3. 

Degres (des), Bonne- 
Nouvelle. E 2.* 

Delaborde, C. 2 . 
Delaborde (impasse), 

C. 1. 

Delaborde (place), 

C. 1.2. 

Delambr (imp. 

Delaunay ), G. 4. 


70 Delorme (passage), St- 

Honore, D. 3. 

Delta (du), E. 1. 

Delta 1 .afayette(du), E. 1. 
Demi-Saint (du), pr&s 
St - Germain - TAuxer- 
rois, D, 3.* 

Denis (St*), E. 2. 3. 

Denis (St-), faubourg 
St-Antoine, H. 4. 

Denis (barrifere St-), F. 1. 
Denis (boulevard St-), 
E. 2. 

Denis (passage St-), au 
Caire, E. 3. 

188 Denis (passage St-), en 
continuation de l'im- 
passe Rasfour. E. 3. 
Denis (du faub. St-), E. 

1. 2. F. i. 

Deputes (cb. des), C. 3. 
Dervilld, pr&s la rue de 
Lourcine, E. 0. 

Desaix, A. 4. 

Desaix (quai), Marche- j 
aux-Fleurs, E. 4. 
Descartes, E. 5. 

Desdze, C. 2. 

Ddsir (passage du),E. 3. 

54 Deux-Anges (imp. des), 

D. 4. 

Deux-Boules (des), E. 8. j 

71 Deux-Ecus (des), D. 3. I 
Deux-Eglisee (des), voy. 

Abbe de l’Epee (de 1’), 

D. 3. 

Deux-Ermites, E 4. 
Deux-Moulins(deB),F. l. 
Deux - Moulins (place 
des), F. 6. 

Deux-Ponts (des), E. 4. 
Deux-Portes - St- Andre 
(des), D. 4. 

Deux-Portes - St-Jean 
(des), E. 3. 4. 
Deux-Portes-St-Sauveur 
(des), E. 2. 3. 
Deux-Soeurs (cour des), 

G. 4. 

72 Deux-Soeurs (impasse 

des), E 9, 

Dominiquo (St-), faub. 
St-Germain, C.3.4.D 4. 
Dominique (St-), Gros- 
Caillou, B. 3. 

Dominique (St-), d’En- 
fer, D. 5. Voy. Royer- 
Collard. 

Dominique (impasse 
St-), d’Enfer, D. 5. 
Doree, F. 3. 






7 


. SQUARES, ETC., 


IN PARIS. 


Douai (de), C. D. l 
Douane (de la), F. 2. 
Rouble (pout an), E. 4. 
Rouze-Pnrtes(des),F. 3. 
Douze-Maisons (passage 
des), B. 3. 

Doyenne (et impasse du), 

D. 3. 

Dragon (du), D. 4, 

73 Dragon (couret passage 

du), I). 4. 

Duguay-Trouin, D. 5. 

Du Guesclin, A. 4. 
Duphot, C. 2. 

Dupleix, A. 4. 

Dupleix (place), A. 4. 
Dupont, A. 3. 

Dupuis, F. 3. 

Duras (de), C. 2. 

Echarpe (de 1’), F. 4. 

74 Echaude (de 1’), an Ma¬ 

rais. F. 3. 

Echaude (de 1’), faub. 
St-Germain, D. 4. 
Echelle (de V), D. 3. 
Echiquier (impasse de 
.1’), E. 3. 

Echiquier (de 1’), E. 2. 
Ecluses St-Martin (des), 
F. i. 

75 Ecole (place de 1’), D. 3. 
Ecole (quai de F), D. 3. 
Ecole-de-Medecine (de 

P) D. 4. 

Ecole-de-Medecine (pi. 
del’), D. 4. 

ficoles, voy. leurs noms. 
Ecole-Militaire(barridre 
de 1’), B. 4. 

Ecole Polytechnique (de 
1’), E. 4. 5. 

Ecosse (d’), E. 4. 
Ecouftes (des), E. 4. 
Ecrivains (des), E. 3. 
Ecuries d’Artois (des), 
B. 2. 

Eglise (de 1’), B. 3. 4. 
Egout (de F), faubourg 
St-Germain, D. 4. 
Egout (de F), Ste-Cathe- 
rine, F. 4. 

Egout (impasse de F), 
faub. St-Martin,pr&s la 
Porte, E. 2. 

Elisabeth (Ste-), F. 2. 3. 
Eloy(St-), E. 4. 

Elysee du Pioule (pass, 
de F), B. i. 

Empereur (pass, de F), 

E. 3.* 


Enfant-Jesus (impasse 
de 1’), rue Vaugirard, 

C. 5. 

Enfants-Rouges ( des ), 

F. 3. 

76 Enfants-Rouges (mar- 

che des ), au Marais, 
F. 3. 

Enfer (d’), I). 5 . 6. 

Enfer (barridre d’),D.6. 
Enter (boul d’), D. 5. 6. 
Enfer (marche d’), D. 5. 
Enghien (d’), E. 2. 
Entrepbt (passage de F) 

F. 2. 

Entrepot (de F),F. 2 . 
Epee-de-Bois (de F), E. 5. 
Eperon (de F), R. 4. 
Erfurth fd’), R. 4 . 
187Esprit (Cour du Saint-) 

G. 4. 

Essai (de F), Marche- 
aux-Chevaux, E. F. 5. 
Est (de F), D. 5. 

77 Esirapade (place de F), 
E. 5, 

Estrees (d’) B. 4. 
Etienne, D. 3 . 
Etienne-des-Gres (St-), 
R E. 5. 

Etienne-du-Mont (imp. 
St-), pres Peglise, E. 5* 
Etoile (de F), F. 4. 

Etoile (place de F), bar- 
ridre de Neuilly, A 2. 
Etoile des Champs-Ely- 
sees (place de P), B. 2. 
Etoile (imp. et passage 
de F), place du Caire, 

E. 2 . 

Etoile (de F), idem , au 
Gros-Caillou, B. 3.* 
Etoile-d’or (cour de P), 
G. 4. 

Etroites-Ruelles (des), 

F. 6. 

Etuves (impasse des), 
rue des bombards,E.3. 
Europe (place d’), C. 1 .* 

78 Eustache (passage St-), 

E. 3. 

79 Eustache (placeSt-)E.3. 
Eveche (de F), E. 4. 
Eveque (F), D. 3 . 

Fabriques(cour des).rue 
des Trois-Bornes, G. 2. 
Faron (impasse St-), rue 
de laTixeranderie,E.4. 
Fauconnier (du), F. 4. 
Favart, D. 2. 


Felibien, D. 4. 

Femme sans-Tete(de la), 
E. 4. 

Fenelon, E. 1 . 

80 Fenelon (place), pout do 

la cite, E. 4. 
Fer-A-Moulin, E. 5. 6. 
Ferdinand, G. 2. 

81 Ferdinand-Berthoud,en- 

clos St-Martin, E. 2. 
Ferme - de - Grenclle 
(ruelle de la), A. B. 4. 
Ferme - des - Mathurins 
(de la), G. 2. 

Ferou, D. 4. 

Ferou (impasse), D. 4. 
Ferronnerie (de la), E.3. 
Fers (aux), E. 3. 
Feuillade (la), D. 3- 
Feuillantines (imp. des), 

E. 5. 

Feuillet (passage), F. 1. 
Feves (aux), E. 4. 
Feydeau, D. 2. 

Feydeau (galerie), pass, 
des Panoramas, D. 2. 
Fiacre (St- ), E. 2. 

82 Fiacre (imp. St-), pr£s 

St Merry, E. 3. 

Fiacre, id., faubourg du 
Temple, pres le canal, 

F. 2.* 

Fidelite (de la), E. 2. 
Fidelitb (de la), pres St. 
Laurent, E. 2. 

Figuier (du), F. 4. 
Filles-Dieu (des), au 
Caire, E. 2. 

Filles-Dieu (imp. des), 
porte St-Denis, E. 2. 
Filles-du-Calvaire (des), 
F. 3. 

Filles-du-Calvaire (bou¬ 
levard des), F. 3. 
Filles-du-Calvaire (car- 
ref'our des), F. 3. 
Filles-St-Thomas (des), 

D. 2. 

Flcchier, D. 1 . 

Fleurus (de), R. 5. 

Flore(passage de),prds 
le Palais-de-Justice, 

E. 4. 

Florence, C. I. 

Floi'entin (St-), C. 2. 
Foin-St-Jacques (du), 
E. 4. 

Foin (du), au Marais, D. 
E. 4. 

Foire-St-Laurent (pass, 
de la), E. 2.* 











8 

Folie-Merieourt (de la), 

F. 2 3. 

Folie-Regnault (de la), 

G. 3. 

Fo n tai n e-au-R oi ( fa u b. 

du Temple), F. G. 2. 
Fontaine (dela),Jardin- 
du-Roi, E. 5. 

Fontaine, D. 1. 

Fontaine-St-Georges , 

D. l. 

Fontaine-Moliere, D. 3. 
83 Fontaines(des),au Tem¬ 
ple, E. F. 3. 

Fontaines (cour etpass 
des), D. 3. 

Fontarabie(barriere de), 

H. 4. 

Fon ten oy f place de),B. 4 
Forez (do), F. 3. 

Forges (des), au Caire 

E. 2. 

Forge-Royale (impasse 
dela', faubourg Saint- 
Antoine, G. 4. 

Fortin, B. 2. 

Fortunee (aven.), A. B.2. 
Fortunee, B. 2. 
Fosses-St-Bernard (des) 
E. 4. 5. 

Fosses-St-Germain-l’Au 
xerrois (des), D. E. 3. 
F osses-St-Jacques (des), 

D. E. 5. 

Fosses-St-Marcel (des), 

E. 5. 6. 

Fosses-St-Martin (des), 

F. I. 

Fosses-Montmartre(des) 

D. 2. 3. 

Fosses-du-Temple(des) 

F. 2. 3. 

Fosses-St-Victor (des), 

E. 5. 

Fnuarre (dn), E. 4. 
Four-St-Germain (du), 
D. 4. 

Four-St-Honore (du), 

D. 3. 

Four-St-Jacques (du), 

E. 5. 

Fourcy-Ste -Genevieve 
(de), E. 5. 

Fourcy ( place et mar- 
cbe ), Estrapade, E 5. 
Fourcy-St-Antoine (im¬ 
passe), F. 4 * 

Fourneaux (des), B.C. 5. 
Fourneaux ( barri^re 
des), B. 5. 

Fourreurs (des), E. 3. 


LIST OF THE STREETS, 


Foy (Ste-), E. 2. 

Foy (passage Ste-), au 
Caire, E. 2. 

Frangaise. E. 3. 
Francfort (de), B. l 
Francois -Miron, E. 4. 
Frangois I er (place). B. 3 
Frangois I er (cour et pas¬ 
sage), rue du Ponceau, 

E. 2. 

Francs-Bourgeois-Saint- 
Marcel (des), E. 6. 
Francs-Bourgeois (des), 
au Marais, E. F. 3. 
Francs-Bourgeois (des), 
St-Michel, D. 4. 
Franklin (barrifere), A. 3 
Frepillon, E. 3. 

Frepillon (pass.), idem 

F. 3.* 

84 Frileuse,alaGreve.E. 4 . 
Frochot, D. l. 
Fromagerie (de la), & la 

Halle, E. 3. 

Fromentel, E. 4. 
Frondcurs (des), D. 3. 
Fruits (port aux), ou le 
Mail, E. 4. 

Fulton, F. 6. 
Furstemberg, D. 4. 

85 Fuseaux ( des ), Pont- 
Neuf, E. 3. (reunie a 
celle des Quenouilles). 

Gabrielle ( avenue ), B. 
C. 2. 

Oaillard(pass.), F. I. 
Gail lard ou de la Buvette-j 
Champetre( pass.),B.2. 
Gaillon, D.2. 

Gaillon (carrefour),D. 2 . 
Gaiete (passage de la), 
F. 2. 

Galande, E. 4. 

Garnbey, F. 2 . 

Garanci^re, D. 4. 

Garre (barr. de la), F. 6. 
Garre (pout de la), voy. 
de Bercy,G. 6. 

Gaste, A. 3. 

86 Gastine (place), rue St- 
Denis, E. 3. 

Gauthrin (passage), B. 2, 
Gazomfetre (du), E. l 
Genes (de), C. l. 
Genev^ve (Ste-). A. 2 . 
Genti (passage), F. 5 . 
Geoffroy-l’Angevin, E.3. 
Geoffroy-l’Asnier, E. 4. 
Geoffroy-Marie, D. 2- 
Georges (St-) D, 2 . 


Germain (Marche St-), 
D. 4. 

Germain - l’Auxerrois 
(St-), D. E. 3. 

Germain - I’Auxerrois 
(place St-), D. 4. 
Germain-le-Yieux (pas¬ 
sage St-), E. 4. 

Ger main-des-Pres (St-), 
D. 4. 

88 Germain-des-Pres(place 
St-), D. 4. 

Gervais (St-), E. 4. 
Gervais (passage St-), 
prfes la Greve, E. 4. 

1 80Gervais-Lauren t, dans la 
Cite, E. 4. 

Gfevres (quai de), E. 4. 
Gindre (du), D. 4. 

Git—le—Coeur, D. 4. 
Clacidre (de la), E. 6. 
Glatigny (de). E. 4. 
Gobelins (des), E. 6. 
Gobelins (boul.des),E.6. 
Gobelins ( rueile des), 
idem, E. 6. 

Gobelins ( manufacture 
des), E. 6. 

Godnt-de-Manroy, C. 2. 
Gourdes (des), A. 3. B. 2 . 
Gracieuse, E. 5 . 
Grammont (de), D. 2. 
Grammont (imp.), C. l. 
Grand-Cerf (passage de ’ 
l’ancien), F,. 3. 
189Grand-Cerf (passage du) 

E. 2. 

Grand-Chantier (du), E 

F. 3. 

Grand - Chantier-de-Ti- 
voli (pass, du), C. 2.* 
Grand-Hurleur (du),E.3, 
Grand-Prieure(du),F.3, 
Grand-St-Micbel, F. 1 . 
Grande-Cour (pass, de 
la), G. 5. 

Grandc-Chaumiere (de 
la), 0. 5. 

C^ands-Augustins (des), 

Grands-Augustins (quai 
des), D. 4 

Grands-Degres(des),E.4. 
Grande-Friperie (de la), 
a la Halle, E. 3 . 
Grande-itue, enclos de 
la Trinite. E. 3 . 
Grande-Rue-Verte, B.C. 

2. voy. de Penthievre. 
Grande-Truanderie (de 
la), E. 3. 







SQUARES, ETC., IN PARIS. 


Grange-aux-Belles,F. 2 . 
Grange-Bateli£re, D. 2 . 
Gravilliers (des), E. 3. 
Greffuhle, C. 2. 

Gregoire de Tours, B. 4. 
Grenelle-St-Honore(de), 
D. 3 

Grenelle, au Gros-Cail- 
lou, B. 3. 4. 

Grenelle (barr. de), A.4. 
Grenelle (impasse de). 
Greneta, E. 3. 

Grenela (imp.), enclos 
de la Trinite, E. 3.‘ 
Grenier-Si-I.azare, E. 3. 
Grenier-sur-PEau, pr6s 
la Gr£ve, E. 4. 

Gres (des), D. 4. 5. 
Gresillons (des), C. 2. 

Gretry, I). 2. 

Grfcve (quai de la). E. 4. 
Gril (du), E. 5. 

Grille (passage), C. 2. 
Grillee, E. 4. 
Gros-Caillou, B. 3. 
Gros-Chenet (du), E. 2 . 

89 Grosse-Tete (impasse de 
la), E. 2. 

Guemenee (imp.), F. 4. 
Guenegaud, D. 4. 
Guepine (impasse), rue 
deJouySt-Antoine,E.4. 
Guerin-Boisseau, E. 2. 3. 
Guillaume, E. 4. 
Guillaume (St-), C. D. 4. 

90 Guillaume (cour et pas¬ 

sage St-), D. 3. 

91 Guillelmites (des), E. 3. 
Guisarde, D. 4. 

Halle au beurre, oeufs et 
fromages, E. 3. 

Halle aux cuirs, E. 3. 
Halle aux draps, E. 3. 
Halle aux poissons, E. 3. 
Halle aux pommes de 
terre, E. 3. 

Halle a la verdure, E. 3. 
Halleaux vins,E.4.5.F.5. 
Halle a la volaille et au 
gibier, D. 4. 
Hambourg/de), B.l.C.l. 
Hanovre (de). D. 2. 
Harlay (de), au Marais, 
F. 3. 

Harlay (de), du Palais, 

D. 4. 

Harlay (cour de), au Pa¬ 
lais), D. 4. 

Harpe (de la), D. E. 4. 
Hasard (du), D. 3. 


Hautefort (imp.), E. 6. 

92 Haut-Moulin (du), en la 

Cite, F,. 4. 

Haut-Moulin (du), du 
Temple, F. 2. 

93 Haute-des Ursins, E. 4. 
Haul-Pave (du). E. 4. 
Hautefeuille, 1). 4. 
Hauteville, E. 1 . 2 . 
Havre /passage du), C. 2. 
Havre (du), C. 2. 
Heaumerie (de la), E. 3. 
Heaumerie (impasse de 

la), E. 3. 

Hebrards (des), G. 5. 
Helder (du), D. 2. 

Hennel (impasse), G. 5. 
Henri-premier (de). en¬ 
clos St-Martin, E. 3.* 

94 Henri-Quatre (place de), 

Pont-neuf, D. 3 4. 
Henri-Quatre (quai),F.4. 
Hilaire (St-), E. 4. 
Hillerin-Bertin, C. 4. 
Hirondelle (de P), D. 4. 
Hippolyte (St-), E. 6. 
Holzbacber (cite), F. 2. 
Homme-Arme(deP),E.3. 
Honore-Chevalier, D. 4. 
Honore (St-), C. 2. 3. D. 
E. 3. 

Honore (cloitre St-), D.3. 
Honore (marche St-), ou 
des Jacobins, D. 2. 3 . 
Honore (du faubourg 
St-), B. C. 2. 

Hopital (boulevard de 1’), 
E 6 F. 5. 6. 

Hopital quai de 1’), F. 5. 
6. voy. Austerlilz. 
Hopital (place de P), F. 5. 
Hopital-General (de P), 

E. F. 6. 

Hdpilal-St-Louis (de P), 

F. 1. 2. 

Hopital St-Eouis (avenue 
de P), F. 2 . 

Horloge (cour de P), rue 
du Rocher C. 1 .* 

95 Horloge (galerie de P), 

pr£s l’Opera, D. 2. 
Horloge (quai de P), D. 
F,. 4. 

Hospitali&res-St-Gervais 
(des), E. F. 4. 

96 Hospitalises (imp. des), 

pr6s la Place lioyale, 
F. 4. 

Hotel-Breton(passage de 
P), Palais-Royal, D. 3.* 
Hdtel-Colbert(deP), E.4. 


0 

97 Hotel-des-Fermes (pass, 
de P), rue du Bouloi, 
D. 3. 

Hotel -Tachoux (pass, de 
P), Marche-Neuf, E. 4. 
Hotel de-Vi lie (del’),E.4. 
Hotel-de-Yille (place de 
P), E. 4. 

Houssaye (du), D. 2. 
Huchette (de la), E. 4. 
Hugues (St-) enclos St- 
Martin, E. 3.* 
l90Hulot 1 passage), D. 3 . 
Hyaeinthe tSt-), St-Mi- 
chel, D. 5. 

Hyaeinthe (passage St-), 
idem. D. 5 . 

Hyaeinthe (St-), St-Ho- 
nore, D. 3. 

Hyaeinthe, quai de la 
Gr6ve, E. 4.* 

Iena (d’), B. 3. 
lena (pont d’), A. 3. 
Industrie (bazar de P), 
D. 2. 

Innocents (marche et 
place des),rue Sl-Denis, 
a la Halle, E. 3. 
Innocents (passage des), 
idem. E. 3.’ 

Invalides (boulevard 
des), B. C. 4. 5. 
Invalides (pontdes),B,3. 
Invalides (esplanade 
des), B. 3. 

Irlandais (des), E. 5. 

Isly (passage de P), G. 2 . 
Isly (de P), C. 2 . 

Italie(barriered’), ou de 
Fontainebleau, E. 6. 
Italiens (boul. des), D. 2. 
Italiens (place des), D. 2 . 
Italiens (theatre des), 
D. 2. 

Ivry (d’), E. 6. 

Ivry (barriere d’), F. 6. 

98 Jacinthe, E. 4. 

Jacob, D. 4. 

Jacquart, E ?,. 

Jacques (St-), D. 5 . E. 4. 
Jacques (marche et place 
St-), rue Soufflot. D. 5 .* 
Jacques (boulevard St-), 
D. E. 6. 

Jacques (du faub. St-), 
D. E. 6. 

Jacques de Brosse, E. 4. 
Jacques - la - Boucherie 
(St-), E. 3. 







10 


Jacques - la - Bouclierie 
(marcheet place St-),E. 
3 .voy. Cour St-Jacques. 
Jacques - la - Bouclierie 
(passage St-), E. 3.* 
Jacques-l’Hopital (St-), 

E. 3. 

Jardin etgaleries du Pa¬ 
lais-Royal, D. 3. 

Jardin du Luxembourg, 

D. 5. 

Jardin du Roi, E. F. 5. 
Jardin-du-Roi (du), E. 5, 
Jardinet (du), B 4. 
Jardiniers (ruelle des), 
faub. St-Antoine, G. 5. 
Jardiniers (imp. des), 

F. 3. 

Jardins (des), F. 4. 
Jarente, F. 4. 

Jean (St-), au Gros-Cail- 
lou, B. 3. 

Jean (marche St.-), E. 4. 
Jean-Baptiste(St-), C. 2 . 
Jean-Bart, D. 5. 
Jean-Beausire (impasse 
et rue), F. 4. 

99 Jean - de - Beauce, k la 
Halle, E. 3. 

Jean-de-Beauvais (St-), 

E. 4. 

Jean-Bouton (ruelle), 

G. 5. 

Jean-Goujon, ville de 
Franpois !«*, B. 3. 
Jean-Hubert, E. 5 . 
Jean-de-l’Epine,E.3.E.4. 
Jean-.Tacques-Bousseau, 
D. E. 3. 

100Jean-de-Latran(St-),E.4. 
Jean-de-Latran (passage 
et cloitre St-), E. 4. 
Jean-Lantier, E. 3. 
Jeannisson, D. 3 . 
Jean-Pain-Mollet, E. 3. 
Jean-Robert, E. 3. 
Jean-Tison,D. 3. 
lOlJerome (St-), place du 
Chatelet, E. 3. 4. 
Jerusalem (de), quai des 
Orfevres, D. 4. 
Jerusalem-Notre-Dame. 
(pass, etimp. de),E. 4.* 
Jeu-de-Boule (passage 
du), F. 3. 

Jeu-de-Paume (passage 
du), boulev. du Tem¬ 
ple, F. 3.* 

Jeuneurs (des), D. E. 2. 
102Joaillerie (de la), place 
du Chatelet, E. 3. 


LIST OF THE STREETS, 

Joinville (de), B. 2. 
Joinville (passage), F.2. 
Joquelet, D. 2. 

Joseph (St-), D. E. 2. 
Joseph (cour), rue de 
Charonne, F. G. 4. 
Josset(passage), G. 4. 
Joubert, C. D. 2. 
Jouffroy (passage), D. 2. 
Jouffroy, F. 5. 

Jour (du), E. 3. 

Jouy (de), E. 4, 
Juges-Consuls(des),E.3. 
Juifs (des), F. 4. 

Juillet (du 29), D. 3. 
l03Juiverie (cour de la), 
place St-Antoine, F. 4. 
Jules (St-), faubourg St- 
Antoine, G 4. 
Julien-le-Pauvre (St-), 
E. 4. 

Julienne, E. 6. 
Jussienne(dela), D. E. 3. 
l04Jussienne (passage de 
la), T). 3. 

Jussieu, E. 5. 
Justice(palais de), D.E.4. 
Justice (place du Palais 
de), E, 4. 

Kleber, A. 4. 

Laborde. C. 2, voy. De- 
laborde. 

Labruy&re, D. 1 . 

Lacuee, F. 5. 

Lafayette, E. F. 1 . 
Lafayette (place), E. 1 . 
Laferriere, D. i. 

Laffitte, D. 2 
Laffitte (passage), D. 2. 
Laffitte et Caillnrd (Mes- 
sageries). D. 3. 

51 Lagnv (de), H 4. 

Laiterie (de la), enclos 
de la Trinite, E. 3.* 
Lamoignnn (cour et pas¬ 
sage de), quai de l’Hor- 
loge, E. 4. 

Lancry (de), F. 2. 

Landry (St-), E. 4. 
Landry (imp. St-), pr&s 
la rue, E. 4. 

Languedoc (de), Halle 
aux vins, E. 4. 5. 
t05Lanterne (dela),desAr- 
cis, E. 3. 

Lappe (de), F. G. voy. 
Louis-Philippe. 

Lard (au),St-Honore, a la 
Halle aux draps, E. 3.* 


Lard (impasse au), St- 
Honore, Hallo aux 
draps, E. 3.* 

Las-Cases, C. 3. 
Latour-Maubourg (bou¬ 
levard), B 4. 

Laurent (St-), E. 2. 
Laurent (foire St-), E. 1. 
Laurent (impasse St-), 
Porte St-Denis, E. 2. 
Lauren t de J ussi eu(cite), 
B. 3. 4. 

Laurette, D. 5. 

Laval, T). l. 

Lavandieres(des), place 
Maubert, E. 4. 
Lavandieres (des), Ste- 
Opportune, E. 3. 
Lavoisier, C. 2. 

Lazare (nrison de St-), 
E. 1.2. 

Lazare (St-), C, 2. D. 1. 
Lazare (impasse St-), 
St-Denis, E. l. 

Leclerc, D. 6. 
Legraverend, G. 5. 
Lemoine (passage), St- 
Denis, E. 2. 

Lenoir, faubourg St-An- 
toine, G. 4. 
l06Lenoir, Halle aux draps, 
E. 3. 

Leonie, D. l. 

Lepelletier, D. 2. 
Lesdiguieres (de), F. 4. 
Licorne (de la). E. 4. 
Lilas (ruelle des), F. 3. 
Lille (de), C. D. 3. 

Limace (de la), E. 3. 
Limoges (de), F. 3. 
Lingerie (de la), aux In¬ 
nocents. E. 3. 

Lions (des), F. 4. 
Lisbonne (de), B. C. 1. 
Lobeau, E. 4. 

Lobineau, D. 4. 

Lodi (rue du pont de), 1 
D. 4. 

Lombards (des), E. 3. 
Londres (de), C. D. i. 
Longchamp (de), A. 3. 
Longchamp (barr. de), 

A. 3. 

Longue-Allee (passage 
do la). Ponceau, E. 2 .* 
Longue-Avoine (impasse 
de la), D. 6, faubourg ? 
St-Jacques 

Louis-le-Grand, D. 2 . 

1 92Louis-le-Grand (place du 
college), D. 4. 




Louis (St-), au Marais, 
F. 3. 4. 

Louis(St-),enl’ile,E.F.4. 
Louis (impasse St-), fau¬ 
bourg du Temple, F. 2 . 
108Louis ^ St-), idem , Char¬ 
lemagne, F. 4. 

Louis ^inarche St-), ile 
St-Louis, F. 4. 

Louis (St-), St-Honore, 
I). 3. 

Louis-Philippe, F. G. 4. 
Louis-Philippe(duPont), 
E. 4. 

Louis-Quinze, (Pont et 
place, voir Concorde), 
C. 3. 

Lourcine(de), D 6.E.5.6. 
Lourcine (barr.de), D .6. 
Louvois, 1). 2. 

Louvre (palais du), D. 3. 
Louvre (quai du), b. 3. 
Louvre (place du), I) 3 . 
Louvre (pontdu),oudes 
Arts, b. 3. 

Lowendal(avenue), B.4. 
Lubeck, A. 3 . 

109Luily, b. 2. 

Lune (de la), E. 2. 
Luxembourg (de), C. 2. 
Lycee (pass, du), b. 3. 
Lyonnais (des), E. 6. 

Mabillon, b. 4, 

Macon, b. 4. 

Magons (des), D. 4. 
Madame, b. 4. 5. 
Madeleine (de la), C. 2. 
Madeleine (boulevard de 
la), C. 2 . 

Madeleine ( galerie de 
la), C. 2. 

Madeleine (imp. et pas¬ 
sage de la), a la Cite, 
E. 4. * 

l07Madeleine (pass, de la), 
C. 2. 

Madeleine(pl. de la),C.2. 
Madelonnettes ( prison 
des), E. 3. 

Mademoiselle (petite 
rue), C. 4. 

Madrid (de), C. 1. 
Magasins (des), E. 1 . 
Magdebourg (do), A. 3. 
llOMagloire (Si-), E. 3. 
lilMagloire (impasse St-), 
idem, E. 3 . 

Mail (du), b. 2. 3. 
Main-d’Or (cour de la), 
G. 4. 


SQUARES, ETC., IN PARIS. 

Maine (barri£redu),C.4. 
Maine(chausseedu),C.5. 
Maison des Arts (cour de 
la;, place de la Corde- 
rie, F. 3 . 

Maison-Neuve, C. 2 . 
Maison-Brulee, (cour de 
la), G. 4. 

Maitre-Albert, E. 4. 
Malaquais (quai), b. 3. 
Malar, au Gros-Caillou, 

B. 3. 

Malesherbes, C. 1.2. 
Malesherbes (boul.), en 
construction, C. 1 . 2 . 
Malte \de), faubourg du 
Temple, F. 3 . 

Mandar, E. 3. 

Manue (barr. St-), H. 5 . 
Mande (ruelle St-), H. 5. 
Mande(aven.deSl-),H.5. 
Manege(pass.du),C 4.5. 
Mansard (rue projetee), 
voy. Passage Sl-Pierre, 

F. 4. 

Marais, F. 2. 

Marais (des), faub. St. 
Germain, b. 4. 

Marais (des), faub. St- 
Martin, F. 2. 

Marais (place des), au 
canal, F. 2 . 

Marneuf, B. 2 . 
Marbeuf(anc.jard.),B. 2 . 
Marc (St-), b. 2 . 

Marcel (St-), E. 6. 
Marchand (pass.), Cloi- 
tre-St-Honore, b. 3. * 
Marche (de ia), F. 3. 
Marche (du;, pres la rue 
d’Aguesseau, faub. St- 
Honore, C. 2 . 

Marche Beauveau, G.4. 
Marche - aux - Chevaux 
(du), E. 5. 6. 

112Marche - aux - Chevaux 
(impasse du), id. E. 5. 

1 79Marehe-aux-Fleurs (du), 

E. 4. 

Marche-aux-Fourrages, 
rue Lafayette, F. 1 . 

•—-boul. d’Eufer, C. 5. 

-rue St-Antoine,H.4. 

Marche - aux - Poirees 
(du), E. 3 

Marche-aux-Veaux, E.4. 
Marche des Cannes, E.4 
Marche des Innocents , 

E. 3. 

Marche desPatriarches, 

E. 5. 


\\ 

Marche-Neuf (du), E. 4 . 
Marche-Popincourt(du), 
F. G. 3. 

Marche St-Germain,b.4. 
Marche-St-Gervais, E. 
F. 3. 

Marche St-Honore (du), 
b. 3 . 

Marche de laVallee,b.4. 
Marche-St-Martin (du), 
enclos St-Martin, E. 3. 

Marche-St-Maur,F. 2 . 
Marcoul (Si-), enclos St- 
Martin, E. 3. 
Marguerite (Ste-), fau¬ 
bourg St-Antoine , et 
place,G. 4. 

Marguerite (Ste-), faub. 
St-Germain, et place,* 
b. 4. 

Marie (cour Ste-), F G.4. 
Marie (pout), E. 4. 

Marie ( Ste- ), St-Ger¬ 
main, b. 3. 

Marie (Ste-), a Chaillot, 
A. 3. 

Marie (barr. de Ste-), 
A. 3. 

Marie (allee et passage) 
Ste-), B. 1 . 

Marie (pass. Ste-), faub. 
St-Germain, C. 4. 
Marie-Stuart, E. 3. 
Marigny (aven.), B.C. 2. 
Marine (impasse et pas¬ 
sage Ste-), Cite, E. 4. 
Marionnett.es (des), b. 
E. 5. 

Marivaux des Italiens, 

b. 2. 

Marivaux des Lombards, 
E. 4. 

Marmousets (des), en la 
Cite, E. 4. 

Marmousets (des), St- 
Marcel, E. 6. 

Marquefoy, F. 1. 
Marseille (de), F. 2. 
Marsolier,b. 2. 

Martel, E. 2. 
ll3Marthe (Ste-), D. 4. 
Martial (impassse St-), 
Cite, pr6s le Palais,E.4. 
Martignac, C. 3. 

Martin (St-), E. 2. 3. 
Martin (boulevard St-), 
E. F. 2. 

Marlin ( du faubourg 
St-), E. 2 . F. 1 . 

Martin (impasse St*),en¬ 
clos St-Martin, E. 3. * 








42 

Martin (marche St-), E 
2. 3. 

Martrois (du), E. 4. 
Martyrs (des), D. i. 
Martyrs (harr. des), D. 1 
Masseran, B. 4. 5. 
ll4Massillon, E.4. 
115Masure (de la), E. 4. 
Mathurins (des), D.E.4. 
Matignon (avenue), B. 2 . 
Matignon, B. 2. 
Malignon (impas.), Car¬ 
rousel, D. 3.* 

Matignon (avenue de), 
voy. Allee des Veuves. 
Maubert (place), E. 4. 
Maubeuge (de), E. l. 
Maubuee, E. 3. 
Mauconseil, E. 3. 
Mauconseil(impass.),St- 
Denis-St-Sauveur, E.3. 
Maur (St-), Popineourt, 

F. 1. 2. G. 2. 3. 

Maur (St-), faub. St- 
Germain, C. 4. 

Maur (St-), St-Martin , 
E. 3. 

Maur (cour St-). F. 2. 
Maur (marche St-), F. 2 
Maure (du), E. 3. 
Mauvais-GarQuns (des), 
St-Germain, D. 4. Voy. 
Gregoire de Tours. 
Mauvais-Garcons (des), 
St-Jean, E.*4. 
Mauvaises-Paroles(des), 
E. 3. 

Mayet, C. 5. 

Mazagran, E. 2. 

Mazarine, D. 4. 

Mazas (boulev.), F.G. 5. 
Mazas, F. 5. H. 5. 

Mazas (place), F. 5. 
Mecaniques (des),enclos 
de la Trinite, E. 3.* 
Mechin, D. 6. 
Megisserie(quaidela),ou 
de la Ferraille, D.E. 3. 
Mehul, D. 2. 

Menars, D. 2. 
Menilmontant (de), F. 3. 

G. 2. 3. 

Menilmontant (barribre 
de), G. 2. 

Mercier, D. 3. 

Meslay, E. F. 2. 
Messageries (des), E. l. 
Messageries — Royales 
(cour et passage des\ 
D. 2. 

Messine (de), B. i. 


LIST OF THE STREETS, 

Metiers (des), enclosde 
la Trinite, E. 3.* 
Mezibres, D. 4. 
Michaudibre (de la) D. 2. 
Michel (St-), C. 2. 
H6Michel (place du pont 
St-), E. 4. 

Michel (quai St-), E. 4. 
Michel (place St-),d’En- 
fer, D. 4. 5. 

Michel-le-Comte, E. 3. 
Mignon, D. 4. 

Milan (de), G. 1. 
ii7Milieu des Ursins, Cite 
(du), E. 4. 

Minimcs (des), F. 3. 4. 
Minimes (de lachaussee 
des), F. 3. 4. 

Miracles (cour des), prbs 
de la Bastille, F. 4. 
Miracles(placeduCaire), 
E. 2. 

Miracles, ruedeRueilly, 
II. 5. 

Miromesnil, C. l. 2. 
Mogador, D. 2. 

Moineaux (des), D. 3. 
Moineaux (passage des), 
idem, 1). 3.* 

Molay, F. 3. 

Molibre, D. 4. 

118\lolicre (passage), E. 3. 
Monceau-St Gervais(du), 
voy. Francois Miron. 
Monceau (de), B. l. 2. 
Monceau (pare de), B. I. 
Monceau (barriere de), 
C. l. 

Moncey, C. D. l 
Mondelour, E. 3. 

Mondovi (de), C. 2. 3. 
Monnaie (de la), D. 3. 
Monnaie (dela Vieille-), 
E. 3. 

Monsieur. C. 4. 
Monsieur-le-Prince,D.4. 
Monsigny, D. 2. 
Montagne-Ste-Genevibve 
(de la), E. 4. 5. 
Montaigne (de), B. 2. 

Mon t-de-Piete( passage), 
Blanes-Manteaux, E. 3. 
Montebello (quai), E. 4. 
Montesquieu, D. 3. 
Montesquieu (passage), 

I). 3. 

Montfaucon, D. 4. 
Montgallet, G. H. 5. 
Montgolfier, enclos St- 
Martin, E. 2 . 3. 
Momholon, E t. 


liDMontholon (place), E. l 
Montmartre (abattoir 
de), D. E. l. 

—(cimetibre), C. I). 
Montmartre (barribre), 
D. i. 

Montmartre (boule¬ 
vard), D. 2. 

l04Montmartre (cite), rue 
Montmartre, D. 3. 
Montmartre, D. 2 . E. 3.1 
Montmartre (du faub.), 
D. 1.2. 

Montmorency, E. 3. 
Montorgueil, E. 3. 
Mont-Parnasse (du),C.5. 
—cimetiere. C. 5. 6. 
Mont-Parnasse (barr.), 
C. 5. 

Mont-Parnasse (boule¬ 
vard), C. D. 5. 
Mont-Parnasse (imp.), 

C. 5. ; 

Montpcnsier (gal.), Pa- 
lais-Roval, D. 3. 
Montpensier. D. 3. 
Montreuil (de), G. H. 4. 
Montreuil (barribre de), 

H. 4. 

Mont-Thabor (du), C. 3. 
Moreau, F. 4. 5. 

Morland (boulev.), F. 4. 
Mornay, F. 4. 
l20Morlagneou desSuisses 
(impasse), rue Cha- 
ronne, G. 4. 

Mortellerie (dela), voy. 
de l’Hotel-de-Ville. 
Moscou, C. i. 
Mothe-Piquet (avenue de 
la), B. 4. 

Mothe-Piquet (barr. de 
la), B. 4. 

Mouffetard, E. 5. 6. 

Moufle, F. G. 3. 

Moulins (des), St-Hono- 
re, D. 2 3. 

Moulin-Joli (ruelle du), 
faub. du Temple, barr. 
des Courunnes, G. 2. 
Mousquetaires (ruelle 
des), F. G. 5. 

Moussy (de), E. 3. 
12lMouton (du), E. 3. 4. 
Muette (de la), G. 3. 4. 
Mulets (des), rue d’Ar- 
genteuil, D. 3. * 

Mulhouse (de), E. 2. 
Munich (aven. de), B.2 
Murier (du), E. 4. 
Musbum(placedu), D. r> 










Naples (de),.C. l. 
Napoleon iquai), E. 4. 
Navarin (de), D. l. 
Nazareth (de), quai des 
Or lev res, D. 4. 
l22Neeker, Marche Ste-Ca- 
therine, F. 4. 

Nemours (cour et gal. 

de), Palais-Royal, 1). 3. 
Nemuurs (de), F. 3. 
Neut'(ponteipl.),D. 3.4. 
123—(pass, du Pont-), D. 4. 
Neuf (marche-), pont 
St-Michel, E. 4. 

Neuilly (barri&rede), ou 
de FEloile, A. 2. 

Neuilly (avenue de), v. 
des Champs-Elysees, 
A. B. 2. 

Neuve - Bourg - l’Abbe , 

E. 3. 

Neuve-Breda, D. l. 
Neuve-d’Angouleme, F. 
3. voy. Gambey. 

Neuve - d’Artois, D. 2. 
voy. I.aftitte. 
Neuve-de-Berry, B. 2. 
Neuve - des - Bons - En- 
fants, D. 3. 

Neuve-de-Bretagne,F. 3. 
Neuve-dc-Clichy, C. l. 
Neuve - des - Capucines, 
C. D. 2. 

l24Neuve - de-la- Cerisaye, 
Arsenal, F. 4. 

125Neuve - du - Colombier, 
Marche-Ste-Catherine, 

F. 4. 

Neuve-Coquenard, D. l. 
Neuve-Guillcmin, D. 4. 
Neuve - des-Mathurins, 

C. D. 2. 

Neuve-de-Menilmontan t 
F. 3. 

Neuve-d’Orleans, voy. 
Boulevard-St-l)enis. 
Neuve - de - l’Oratoire, 
Champs-Elysees, B. 2 . 
Neuve-des-Pet.-Champs 

D. 2. 3. 

Neuve-des-Petits-Peres, 

D. 3. 

Neuve-de-la-Planchctte, 

F. 4. 

27Neuve-des-Poirees, pr£s 
la place Sorbonne,D. 4. 
Neuve-de-Poitiers, B. 2 . 
v. des Ecuties-d’Artois 
Neuve-Fontaine-Saint- 
Georges, D. i. 
Neuve-Lappe, G. 4, 


SQUARES, ETC., IN PARIS. 

Neuve-Luxembourg, C. 

2. 3. voy. Luxembourg 
(de). 

l26Neuve-Montmorency, A 
la Bourse, D. 2 . 
Ncuve-Notre-Dame,E. 4 . 
Neuve-Plumet, B. 4. 
Neuve-llichelieu, D. 4. 
Neuve-Ste-Anastase, F.4 
Neuve-St-Augustin, D.2. 
Neuve-Ste-Catberine,F. 

3. 4. 

Neuve-Ste-Croix, D. 2. 
Neuve-St-Denis, E. 2. 
Neuve-St-Etienne, St- 
Marcel, E. 5. 
Neuve-St-Etienne, Bon- 
ne-Nouvelle, E. 2. 
Neuve-St-Eustache, E. 2 . 
Neuve-St-Fran^ois, F. 3. 
Neuve - Ste - Genevieve, 

E. 5. 

Neuve-St-Georges, D. l 
Neuve-St-Gilles,F. 3. 
Neuve-St-Jean, E. 2. 
Neuve-St-Laurent, E. 

F. 2. 

Neuve-St-Marc, D. 2. 
Neuve-St-Marlin, E. 2 . 
Neuve-St-Medard, E. 5. 
Neuve-St-Merri, E. 3. 
Neuve-St-Nicolas, E.F. 2 . 
Neuve-St-Paul, F. 4. 
Neuve-St-Pierre, F. 3 . 
Neuve-St-Roch, D. 2 . 3 . 
Neuve-St-Sauveur, E. 2 . 
Neuve-Vivienne, voy. 
Vivienne. 

Nevers (de), D. 4. 

128Nevers (impasse de), id. 

D. 4. 

Newton, A. 2. 

Nicaise (St-), D. 3. 

Nicolas (St-), Chaussee- 
d’Antin, C. D. 2. 

Nicolas (St-), laub. St- 
Antoirie, G. 4. 

Nicolas - du - Chardonnet 
(St-), E. 4. 

l29Nicolas (place St-), rue 
St-Martin, E. 3. 

Nicolas (impasse St-), 
enclos St-Martin, E. 3.’ 
Nicolas (port St-), au 
Louvre, D. 3. 

Nicolet, B. 3. 

Noir (passage), Palais- 
Royal, D. 3. 

l82Nom de Jesus (cour du), 

F. 4. 

Nonandjfcres (des), E. 4, 


13 

Nord (place du), E. l. 
Nord (du), E. 1. 
Normandie (de), F. 3 . 
Notre-Dame-de-Bonne- 
Nouvelle, E. 2. 

Notre - Dame-de-Grace, 
Chaussee-d’Aritin, C. 2 . 
Notre-Dame-de-Lorette, 

D. 1. 

Notre-Dame-de-Naza¬ 
reth, F. 2. 

Notre-Dame-de-Recou- 
vrance,E. 2 . 
Not.-Dame-des-Champs, 

G. 4. 5. D. 5. 

Notre-Dame-des-Victoi- 

res, I) 2. 

Notre-Dame (pont), E. 4. 
Noyers (des), E. 4. 

Oblin, E. 3. 

I300bservance (deF), D.4. 
Observatoire, D. 6. 
Observatoire (carrefour 
de F), D. 5. 6. 

Odeon (de F), D. 4. 
Odeon (placede l’),D. 4. 
l3lOdeon (carrefour de F), 
D. 4. 

Ogniard, E. 3. 

Oiseaux (des), pr$s le 
Temple, F. 3. * 

Olivet (d’), C. 4. 

Olivier, D. I. 

Omer (de St-), E. l. 
Orangerie (de F), E. 5. 
Oiatoire (de F), St-Ho- 
nore, D. 3. 

Oratoire (place de F), au 
Louvre, D. 3. 

Or^ay (quai d’),A.B.C.3. 
Orlevres (des), pr&s le 
Pont-Neuf, E. 3. 
Orlevres (quai des),D.4. 
Orillon (de F), G. 2. 
Orleans-St-Honore, D. 3. 
Orleans (d’), au Marais, 
F. 3. 

Orleans (d’), St-Marcel, 

E 5. 

Orleans (galerio d’), Pa¬ 
lais-Royal, D. 3. 

Orleans (quai d’), E. 3. 
Orme (de F), F. 4. 
Ormeaux (des), H. 4. 
Ormes, (avenue des), 

H. 4. 

Ormes (quai des), E. 4. 
1320rmesson (d’), F. 4. 
Opera (pass, de F), D. 2.* 
Opportune (Ste-), E. 3.* 


o 

/V 











u 


—(place Ste-), E. 3. 

— (impasse Ste-), E. 3. 
Orties (des), D. 3. 
Oseille (de F), au Marais, 
Yieille rue du Temple, 
F. 3. 

Ouest (de 1’), D. 5. 

Ours (aux), E. 3 . 
I 8 t 0 urs (cour de F), G. 4 . 

Pagevin, E. 3. 
Pailiassons (des), B. 5 . 
Paillassons (barr. des), 
B. 5. 

Paix (de la), D. 2 . 
Palais-Bourbon (place 
du), ou du Corps-Le- 
gislatif, C. 3 . 
Palaisdel’Institut (place 
du), ou des Quatre-Na- 
tions, D. 3. 

Palais de Justice (place 
du), E. 4. 

Palais-Royal (place du), 
D. 3. 

Palais (lie du), ou Cite, 
D. E. 4. 

Palatine, D. 4. 
Panier-Fleuri (passage 
du), impasse des Bour- 
donnais, E. 3.* 
Panorama, B. 3. 
Panorama (pass, des), 
D. 2 . 

Pantin (barr. de), F. l. 
Pantheon (du), projetee, 

D. E. 5. 

Pantheon (pi. du), E. 5 . 
Paon (du), Eeole-de-Me- 
decine, 1). 4. 

Paon (du),St-Victor,E.4. 
l33Paou-Blanc (du), quai 
des Ormes, E. 4 . 

Paon (imp. du), Ecole- 
de-Medeeine, 1 ). 4 . 
Papillon, E. l. 

Papin, F. 5. 

Paradis (de), faubourg 
St-Denis, E. 2 . 

Paradis (de), au Marais, 

E. 3. 

Parcheminerie (de la) 

E. 4. 

Parc-lloyal (du), F. 3. 
Parmentier (aven.),G. 3 . 
Parvis-Notre-Dame (pi 
du), E. 4. ; 

Pascal, E. 6 . 
Pas-de-la-Mule (du), F.4. 
Passages, u.leursnoms. 
Passy (barr. de), A. 3. 


LIST OF THE STREETS, 

Pastourelle, E. F. 3. 
Patriarches (imp. et pas. 
des), St-Mareel, E. 5 . 

, Patriarches (marc, des), 
, rue Mouffetard, E. 5. 
Paul (St-), F. 4. 

—(quai et portSt-), F. 4. 
Pauquet, A, 2 . 
Pavee-St-Andre, D. 4. 
Pavee-St-Sauveur, E. 3. 
Pavee, au Marais, F. 4. 
Paxent (St-), enclos St- 
Marlin, E. 3.* 

Payenne, F. 3 . 
t34Peintres (impasse des), 
prds Mauconseil, E. 3. 
Pelee (ruelle), F. 3. 
Pelerins-Saint-Jacques, 

E. 3. 

Pelican (du), D. 3. 
Pelleterie (de la), Mar- 
che-aux-Fleurs, E. 4. 
Pelletier (quai), E. 4. 
Penthidvre (de), B. C. 2 . 
Pepini£re (de la), B. C. 2. 
Pequay (impasse), E. 3. 
Percee-Si-Andie, D. 4 . 
Percec-Si-Aiitoine, F. 4 . 
Percho (du), F. 3 . 
Percier, D. l. 
Pere-la-Clmise (cime- 
tiere, H. 3. 

Peres (des Sts-), C. 4.D. 
3. 4. 

Pdres (pont des Sts-), 
D. 3. 

Pdres (port des Sts-), 
D. 3. 

Perignon (de), B. 5 . 
l35Perigueux (de), F. 3 . 
Perine (liosp. de Ste-), 
A. 2. 

Perle (de la), F. 3. 
t37Perpignan (de), en la 
Cite, E. 4. 

Perree, F. 3. 
l38Perrin-Gasselin, E. 3. 
l39Perron (pass, du), D. 3 . 
Palais-Royal. 
Petersbourg (de), C. l. 
l40Petit-SL-Antoine (pass, 
du), E. F. 4. 

Petit Banquier (du), E. 6 . 
Petit-Bourbon(du), D. 4 . 
Petit-Carreau (du), E. 2 . 
Petit-Champ (du), E. 6 . 
l4lPetit-Crucitix (du), pres 
la tour St-Jacques, E. 3 . 
Petit-Gentilly (du), E 6 . 
Petii-Hurleur (du), E. 3 . 
Petit-Hotel-Charot (im¬ 


passe), rue de la Jus- 
sienne, E. 3.* 
Petit-Lion (du), St-Sau-, 
veur, E. 3. 

Petit-Lion (du), St-Sul- 
pice, D. 4 . 

Petit-Moine (du), E. 6 . 
Petit-Musc (du), F. 4. 
Petit-Punt (du), E. 4. 
Petit-Reposoir(du), D. 3 . 
Petit-Thouars (du), F. 3. 
Petit-Vaugirard, voy. du 
Cherche-Midi, C. 4 . 5 . 
Petite-Bastille (imp. de 
la),St-Germain-l , Auxer- 
rois et Arbre-Sec, D. 3. 
142Petite-Boucherie (pass, 
de la),prds St-Germain- 
des-Pres, D. 4 . 
Petite-Chaise (pass, de 
la;, rue de la Planche- 
Mibray, E. 3.* 
Petite-Coiderie (de la), 

F. 3. 

Petite-Friperie (de la), a 
la Halle, E. 3. 

Petite rue des Acacias,B. 
5. C. 4. 

Petite rue du Bac, C. 4. 
t43Petite rue Chevert, B. 4. 
Petite rue d’lvry, E. 6 . 
Petite rue Mademoiselle 4 
C. 4. ] 

Petite rue Marivaux, Ar- j 
cis, E. 4.* 

Petite rue Neuve-St-Gil- 
les, F. 3. 

Petite rue de Reuilly, 1 

G. 5. 




levart St-Antoine, F. 3 
PetiterueTaranne,D. 4 
Petite-Truanderie(de la 
E. 3. 

Petite rue Verte, B. 2 . 
Peti te-Voirie (de la), fau¬ 
bourg du Roule, C. 1, 
voy. place lielaborde. 
Petite-Voirie (impasse 
de la), C. 1 . 2 . voy. De- 
laborde (impasse). 
Petite rue de la Vriiliere, 
D. 3. 

Pctites-Ecuries(des)E. 2 . 
Putiles-Eeu! ics(passage 
des), E. 2 . 

Petits-Augustins (des), 
D. 3. 4. 

Petits-Champs(des),St* 
Martin, E. 3 . 
Petits-Hbtels (des), E. t 














fC' 


(I 


'A 


-st 


iCG 


% 


SQUARES, ETC., IN PARIS. 


ill 


Petits-P£res(des),D. 3 
Petits-P&res (pass, des) 

D. 3. 

Petits-P6res(pl.des),R.3 
Phelippeaux, E. F. 3. 
Philibert (pass.). G. 2. 
Philippe (St-), Bonne- 
Nouvelle, E. 2. 
Philippe(St-),St-Martin 

E. 3.* 

Picpus (de), H. 4. 5. 
Picpus (barr. de), H. „ 
l44Pierre de Chaillot (St-) 
A. 3. 

Pierre (St-),Popincourt 

F. 3. 

Pierre (St-), rue Mont 
martre, R. 2. 

l45Pierreimp.St-), id. R .2 
Pierre-des-Arcis'S-)F,.4 
Pierre (pass. St-), F. • 
Pierre-Assis, pr&s des 
Gobelins, E 6. 
l46Pierre (impasse St-), an 
Marais, pr&s les Mini 
mes, F 3. 

® 147Pierre-aux-Rceufs, E. 4 
voy. d’Arcole. 
Pierre-au-T.ard, E. 3. 
Pierre-Levee,t;oy.Gam- 
bey, F. 2. 

Pierre-Lescot, T). 3. 
Pierre-I.ombard, E. 6. 
Pierre- A-Poissons, an 
Chatelet, E. 3.* 
Pierre-Sarrazin, D. 4. 
Pieale, R. l. 
Piliers-des-Potiers-d’E- 
tain (des), E. 3. 

Pinon, R. 2. 

Pirouette,ala Halle,E.3 
Pitie(Hopitaldela).E. 5 
Places(ro/rleurs noms) 
Placide (Ste-), C. 4. 
Plaisance (de). B. 1 . 2 . 
Planche (de la), C. 4. 
Planche-Mibray (de la). 
F,. 3. 4. 

Planchette (de la). F. 4. 
Planchette (ruelle de la), 
H. 5. 

Hi i48Planehette (imp. de la), 
r.etporte St-Martin,E.2 
l49Plat-d’Etain (du), Ste- 
Opportune, E. 3. 

Platre (du), St-Jacques, 

F. 4. 

Platre (du), Ste-Avoye, 
E. 3. 

Plumet, C 4. 
Plumet(imp.),utem,C.4. 


15 


lil l ) 


.(4 




s’ 


IS 


Plumets (des), E. 4. 
Pointe-St-Eustache (car- 
refour de la). E. 3. 
Poirees (des),Sorhonne, 
R. 4. 5. 

Poirier (du), E. 3. 
l50Poissonnerie (impasse 
de la), marche Ste-Ca- 
therine, F. 4. 
Poissonni^re, E. 2 . 
Poissonni&re (barri&re), 
E. l. 

Poissonnifere (boulev.), 

D. E. 2. 

Poissonnifere (du faub.), 

E. 1.2. 

Poissy(de), E. 4. 
Poitevins (des), R. 4. 
Poitiers (de), faub. St- 
Germain, C. 3. 

Poitou, F. 3. 

Polissart. E. 3. 
Polytechnique (del’Eco- 
le), E. 4. 5. 

Pompe it feu (Passage de 
la), Chaillot, A. 3. 
Pompe (impasse de la), 
porte St-Martin , E. 2. 
Ponceau (du), E. 2. 
Ponceau (passage du) 

Pont-Neuf (passage du), 

Ponts ( v . chaque nom) 
Ponthieu (de), B. 2 . 
Pontoise (de), E. 4. 
Popincourt (de), F. G. 3 
Port-Mahon (de), R. 2 . 
Port-Royal (de), D. 5 . 
Porte-Foin, F. 3. 
l83Porteurs d’eau (cour 
des), F. 4. 

Postes (des), E. 5. 

Poste aux chevaux, R. l 
rue de la Tour-des- 
Dames. 

Poste aux lettres, gran¬ 
de, R. 3 , rue J.-J. Rous 
seau. 

Pot-de-Fer (du), St-Sul- 
pice, R. 4. 

Pot-de-Fer (du), Saint- 
Marcel, E. 5. 

Poterie (de la) des Ar- 
cis, E. 3. 

Poterie (de la), Halle 
aux draps, E 3. 
Potiers-d’Etain (des), Pi- 
liers de la Halle, E. 3. 
Poules (des), E. 5. 

Poulies (des), D. 3. 


Poulletier, E. 4. 
Poupee, R. 4. 

l36Pourtour-Saint-Gervais 

(du), E. 4. 

Predel’Avocat (impasse 
du), R. F. 6. 

Precheurs (des), E. 3. 
Prefecture du Departe- 
ment, E. 4. 

Prefectu re de Police,R. 4. 
l5lPretres-St-Etienne-du- 
Mont (des), E. 5. 
Pretres-Saint-Germain- 
l’Auxerrois (des), R. 3. 
Pretres-St-Nicolas-des- 
Champs (impassedes), 
pr£s Realise. E. 3. 
Pr^tres-St-S^verin(des), 
prfts Feglise, E. 4. 
Princesse, R. 4. 

Proues (galer. des), Pa¬ 
lais-Royal, R. 3. 
Prouvaires (des), R. E.3, 
— (passage des), E. 3. 
Provengaux (imp. des), 
pr£s la place de l’Ecole, 
R. 3.* 

Provence (de), R. 2. 
Puits (du), E. 3. 
Puits-qui-Parle(du),E.5. 
Puits-de-l’Ermite (du), 
E. 5. 

i52Puits-FErmite (pi. du), 
E. 5. 

153Puits-de-Rome (impasse 
et passage du), E. 3. 
Puteaux (passage), C.2. 
154Putigneux (impasse), 
E. 4. 

Pyramides (des), R. 3. 
Pyramides (place des), 
D. 3. 


Quatre-Chemins (ruelle 
des), H. 5. 

Quatre-Fils (des),E.F.3. 
Quatre-Vents(des), R. 4. 
Quatre-Vents (imp. des), 
rue Neuve-de-Seine-St- 
Germain, P. 5. 
Quatre-Vents(pass.des), 
rue idem, n° 6, R. 4. 

85 Quenouilles(des),pr£sle 
Pont-Neuf. E. 3.(reunie 
k celle des Fuseaux.) 
Quincampoix, E. 3. 

155Quinze-Vingts(des),Car¬ 
rousel, R. 3. 
Quinze-Vingts (passage 
des). Sain t-Honore,rue 
de l’Echelle, D. 3/ 








16 

Rabelais (projetee), rue 
Saint-Paul, F. 4. 
Racine. D. 4. 

Radziwill (passage de). 
Palais- Itoyal, D. 3.* 
Rambouillet (de), G. 5 . 
Ramhuteau, E. 3 . 
Rameau, D. 2. 
Ramponneau (barriere 
de), G. 2. 

Rapee (barr, dela). G. 5. 
Ranee'quai de la),F.G.5. 
Rats (des), H. 3. voy. de 
l’Hotel-Colbert. 

Rats (barriere des), H. 3. 
Reale (de la), E; 3 . 
Recollets (des), F. 2 . 
Reculettes (r. des), E. 6 
Regard (du), C. 4 5. 
i56Regnard, pi. de l’Odeon, 

D. 4. 

Regratifere, E. 4. 

Reims (de), E. 5 . 
Reine-Blanche (de la), 

E. 6. 

157Reine-de-Hongrie(pass. 
de la),MontorgueiIE.3. 
Rempart (du), D. 3. 
Tienard-St-Sauveur (du) 
E. 3. 

Renard-St-Merri (du), 
E. 3. 

15SRenaud-Lefevre, E. 4. 
Reservoirs (imp. des), 
a Chai I lot, A. 2. 
Reservoirs (barr. des), 
ou des Bassins, A. 2 . 
Retiro(couretpass. du), 
faub. St-Honore, C. 2. 
Reuilly (de),G.4. 5.H. 5 
Reuilly (barriere de), 
H. 5. 

Reuilly (impasse de), 
G. 5. 

Reuilly (carrefour),G. 4. 
l59Reunion (passage de la), 
St-Martin, E. 3. 

Reynie (la), ou Trousse- 
Vache, E. 3. 

Riboute, E 1 . 
Richard-Lenoir, G. 3. 4. 
Richelieu, 1 ). 2 . 3. 
Ricbepanse, C. 2. 

Richer, D. E. 2. 

Richer (galerie), r. Geof- 
froy-Marie, D. 2 . 

Riverin (cite), E. 2 . 

Rivoli (de), C. D. 3 . 

Roch (passage St-), pres 
1’eglise, D. 3. 
Rochechouart, E. 1 . 2 , 


LIST OF THE STREETS, 

Rochechouart (barriere 
de), E. 1 . 

Rochefoucauld (La), D.l. 
Rocher (du), G. 1 . 2, 
Rodier (cite), D. 1 . 
Rohan,D. 3. 

Rohan (couret passage), 
Ecole-de-Medecine, D 
4. 

t90Roi Francois I er (cour 
du). E. 2. 

Roi-de-Sicile(du),E.F.4 
Rollin-prend-Eage (im 
passe), Ste-Opportune, 
E 3. 

Romain (St-), C. 4. 5. 
Rome (de), G. 1 . 

Rome (imp. de), E. 3. 
Roquepine, C. 2. Voyez 
de Penthievre. 

Roquette (de la), F. 4. 
G. 3. 4. 

Roquette (imp. de la), 
G. 4. 

Rosiers(des),E. 3.F.3.4 
Rotonde (de la), ou Cafa- 
relli, enclosdu Tern pie, 
F. 3 . 

Rotonde (place de la), 
idem, F. 3. 

Roule (du), D. 3. 

Route (faub.), A. 1 . B 
1 . 2 . 

Roule (barr. du), A. 1 . 
Rousselet, faubourg St- 
Germain. C. 4. 5. 

Royal (pont), C. D. 3. 
Royale (place), F. 4. 
Royale, St-Antoine, F. 4. 
Royale, St-Martin, E 3 
Royale des Tuileries,G. 2 
Royer-Collard, D. 5 
Ruffin (impasse), B. 2. 
Rumfort, G. 2 . 

Sabin (St-), F. 3. 4. 

Sabin (ruellc St-), F. 4. 
Sabin (imp. St-), F. G. 4. 
Sabot (du), I). 4 . 

Saint el Sainte (voyez 
leurs noms). 

Saintonge (de), F. 3. 
160Salembri£re (imp.), St- 
Sevcrin, E. 4. 
Salle-au-Gomte, E. 3. 
Salpetre (cour du), F. 4. 
Samson, F. 2 . 

Saute (de la), D. 6. 

Sante (barri&re de la), 
D. 6. 

Sartine (de), D. 3. 


Saumon (passage du), 

E. 3. 

Saunerie (de la). E. 3. 
lGlSaunier (passage), E. 2. 
Saussaves (des). C 2. 
Sauveur (St-), Maucon- 
seii, E. 3. 

Savonnerie (de la), E. 3. 
Savoye (de), D. 4. 

Saxe (avenuede), B.4.5. 
Saxe (impasse de), B. 4. 
Scipion (place de),E.5.6. 
'Sebastien (St-), F. 3. 
Sebasiien (imp. St-), 

F. 3. 

Segur (avenue),-B. 4. 
Seine (de), faubourg St- 
Germain, D. 3. 4. 

Seine (del, St-Victor, 
voy. Guvier. 

Sentier (du), E. 2. 
Sept-Voies (des), E. 5. 
Serpente, D. 4. 
Servandoni, D. 4. 

Severin (Si-), E. 4. 

Shvres (de), B. 5. C. 4. 5. 
Sevres (barri6rede),B.5. 
Sifflet (passage), D. 1 . 
Simon-le-Franc, E. 3. 
Singes (des), E. 3. 
f 6 2Soeurs fi m passe des), S‘ 
Marcel, E. 6. 

l63Soleil-d’or(pass.du),C.2. 
Soly,pr£s la grandePoste 
aux lettres, D. 3. 
Sorbonne (de), E. 4. 
Sorbonne (place de la), 
D. 4. 

Soubise (passage), hotel 
Soubise, E. F. 3 . 

Soufflot, D. 5. 

Soupirs (avenue des), 
H. 5. 

Sourdiere (dela), Saint- 
lloch , D. 2. 3. 

Sourdis (impass.),pr. St- 
Germain - 1’Auxerrois, 

D. 3.* 

Sourdis (ruelle de), au 
Marais, F. 3. 
Sourds-Muets (institut. 
des), D. 3. 

Spire (St-), E. 2. u 

Stanislas, autrefois Ter- 
ray, C 5. 

Slookolm, C. 1 . 

Suffren (av. de), A. B. 4. 
Suger, D. 4. 

t20Suisses (imp. des),G.4. 
Sully, A l’Arsenal, F. 4. 
Sulpice (place St-),D. 4* I 







Surene (de), C. 2 . 


SQUARES, ETC., IN PARIS. 


17 


l64Tabletterie (dela), E. 3. 
Tarherie (dela), E. 4. 
Taille-Pain-St-Merri, E. 
3. 

Taitbout, D 2. 

Tannerie (de la), E. 4. 
Taranne, I). 4. 
Teinturiers(des),E. 4. 
Temple(du), E.3. F.2.3. 
Temple (,faubourg du), 
F. G 2. 

Temple (boulevard du), 
F. 2. 3. 

Temple (marcbe du), 
pres du Temple, F. 3. 
Temple (endos du), 
marche an linge, F. 3. 
Ternaux, F. G. 3. 

Terre (passage), F. 4. 
Terres-Fortes (des), 
F. 4. 

Theatres(pass.des),D. 2 . 
Ther&se, D. 3. 

Thevenot, E. 2. 
Thibautode, D. E. 3. 
Thiroux, C. 2. 
165Thomas-d’Aquin (St-), 
et place, C. 4. 
Thomas-d’Enfer (St-), 
D. 5. 

Thomas-du-Louvre(St-), 
D. 3. 

Thorigny (de), F. 3. 
Tiquetonne, E. 3. 
Tirechappe, D. E. 3. 
Tiron, E. 4. 

Tivoli, C. I. 

—(passage), C. 1. 

— (place), C. i. 
Tixeranderie (de la), E. 
3. 1. 

Tonnellerie(dela),E 3. 
Tour (de la), F. 2. 3. 
Tour-d’Auvergne(de la), 
D. E. I. 

Tour-des-Dames (de la), 

D. I. 

Touraine (de), D. 4. 
Touraine (de), au Ma¬ 
rais, F. 3. 

166Tournelle (de la), E. 4. 
Tournclle (pont de la), 

E. 4. 

Tournelle (quai de la), 
E. 4. 

Tournelle (des), F. 3. 4. 
TourniqueG-St-Jean(du) 
voy. Lobau. 

Tournon (de), D. 4. 


Tourville (avenue), B. 4. 
167Toustain , Marche-St- 
Germain, D. 4. 

Tracy (de), E. 2. 
Trainee (St-Eustache), 
E, 3 • 

Transnonain, E. 3. 
Traverse (de), C. 4. 
Traversiere-St-Honore, 
D. 3. voy. Fontaine- 
MoliOre. 

Traversiere, faubourg 
St-Antoine, F. 5. G. 4. 
Traversine. E. 4. 5 . 
Treilhard, F. 5. 

Treille (impasse de la). 
D. 3, pr6s St-Germain 
l’Anxerrois. 
l68Treille (passage de la), 
marche St-Germain, 
D. 4. 

Trevise, E. 2. 

Trinite (passage et en- 
clos de la), E. 3. 
Triomphes (avenue 
des), H. 4. 

Triperie (pont de la), 
Gros-Caillou, A. B. 3. 
Triperet, E. 5. 

Trognon, place du Cha 
telet, E. 3. 
Trois-Bornes (des), F. 
G. 2. 

Trois-Ganettes (des). 
Cite, E. 4. 

l69Trois-Chandelles(ruelle 
des), G. H. 5. 
TroisChandcliers(des), 
quai St-Michel, E. 4. 
Trois-Couronnes (des), 
faubourg du Temple, 
G 2. 

Trois-Couronnes (des), 
St-Marcel, E 6. 
Trois-Couronnes (bar- 
rifere des), G. 2. 
Trois-Freres (des), D. 
1 . 2 . 

Trois-Freres (impasse 
des). G. 5. 

170Trois-Maries(place des), 
Pont-Neuf, D. 3. 
Trois-Maures(des),Lom¬ 
bards, E. 3. 

Trois-Maures (des), quai 
de la Gr£ve, E. 4. 
Trois-Pavillons (des), 
F. 3. 

l7lTrois-Pistolets (des), 
F. 3. 

Trois-Portes(des),E. 4. 


Trois - Sabres (r uelle 

des), H. 5. 

Trnis-Visages(imp.des), 
Thibotaude, E. 3.* 
Tronchpt, C. 2. 
Trone(bar.ctpl.du),H.4. 
Trousse-Vache,E.3.t)oy. 
Reynie (la). 

Trouvee, G. 4. 

Trudaine (avenue), D. 
E. l. 

Trudon,C.2. 

Tuerie (de la), place du 
Chatelet, E. 3.* 

Tuiles (port auxi, quai 
de la Tournelle, E. 4. 
Tuileries (quai des), C. 
D. 3. 

Turgot, E. 1 . 

Turgot (cite), E. l. 


Ulm, D. E. 5. 
Universite, faub.St-Ger¬ 
main, C. 3. D. 4. 
Universite, auGros-Cail- 
lou, R. 3. 

Ursulines (des), D. 5. 


Valadon (cite), B. 4. 
Val-de-Grace (du), D. 5. 
Valenciennes (placede), 
E. 1. 

Valenciennes, E. 1. 
Valois, Palais-Roval,D. 3. 
Valois (pass.), id. D. 3. 
Valois St-Honore, D. 3. 
Valois du Itoule, B. 1. 
Vanneau, C. 4. 

Vannerie (de la), E. 3. 4. 
Vannes(de),Halle au ble, 
D. 3. 

Vannes(etpl.St-), enclos 
S-Mart.E.3.v.rneConte. 
Varennes (dei, faub. St- 
Germain, C. 4. 
Varennes (de), Halle au 
ble, D. 3. 

Varietes (pass.des), D.3. 
Vaucanson.encl.St-Mar- 
tin, E. 2. 3 

Vaugirard (de), B. 5.C.5. 
D. 4. 

Vaugirard (barrifere de), 

C. 5. 

Vavin, D. 5. 

Vendome (de), F. 2. 3. 
Vendome (place), C. 

D. 2. 

Venise (de), E. 3. 
172Venise (impasse et pas 
sage de). E. 3. 









48 


LIST OF THE 

Ventadour (de), D. 2. 3. 
Verdeau (passage), D.2. 
Verdelet, D. 3. 
Yerderet, E. 3. 

Verneuil (de), C. D. 3. 
Vero-Dodat (passage), 
rue de Crenelle, D. 3. 
Verrerie (de la), E. 3. 4. 
Versailles (de), E. 5. 
Versailles (impasse ) , 

E. 5 

Vertbois (du), E. 2. 
Vertbuissnn (impasse), 
Gros-Caillou, R. 3. 
Vertus (des), E. 3. 
Vertus (barriere des), 

F, l. 

Veuves (allee des), B. 
2. 3. 

Viarmes (de), D. 3. 
Victor Lemaire, D. l. 
Victor (St-), E. 4. 5. 
Victor (place), E. 5. 
Victoire (place) D. 3. 
l73Vide-Gousset, D. 3. 
Vielies-Audriettes (des), 
E. 3. 

Vieille-Boucherie(de la), 
E. 4. 

Vieille-Draperie(de la), 
E. 4. 

Vieilles-Etuves (des), 
St-Honore, D. 3. 
Vieilles-Etuves (des), 
St-Martin, E. 3. 
Vieille-Harengerie (de 
la), E. 3. 

174 Vieille-Lanterne (de 
la), place du Chatelet, 

E. 3. 


STREETS, SQUARES, ET 

Vieille-Monnaie (dela), 
i idem , E. 3. 

Vieille-Notre-Dame, St¬ 
illarcel, E. 5. 
Vieille-place-aux-Veaux, 
place du Chatelet, E. 
3. 4. 

175 Vieille-Tannerie (de 
la), place du Chatelet, 
E. 3. 

Vieille-rue-du-Temple, 
E. 3. 4. F. 4. 
Vieilles-Tuileries (im¬ 
passe des), C. 4. 5. 
Vienne, C. l. 

Vierge (de la), B. 3. 
Yieux-Augustins (des), 
D. 3. 

Vieux-Colombier (du), 

D. 4. 

l76Vigan (pass, du), Mont¬ 
martre, D. 3. 

Vignes (des), a Chaillot, 
A. B. 2. 

Vignes (des), St-Marcel, 

E. 6. 

Vignes (imp. des), E. 5. 
Villars (avenue), C. 4. 
Villedot, I). 3. 
Ville-l’Eveque (de la ), 
C. 2. 

Ville-l’Eveque (pass, de 
la), C. 2. 

Villejuif (de), F. 6. 
Villejuif (Abattoir de), 
E. F. 6. 

Villette (barrifere de la), 
St-Martin, F. l. 

Villiot, G. 5. 


2., IN PARIS. 

Vinaigriers (des), E 

Vincennes (avenue de),.! 
H. 4. 

i77Vincent-de-Paule (St-), 

E. 1. 

Vinde (cite), C. 2 
Vintimille(place),C.D.l. 
Vintimille, C. D. l. 

Violet (passage), E. 2. 
Virginie (pass, de), Pa¬ 
lais-Royal, D. 3. 

Visages (impasse des), 

E. 3.* 

Visitation des Dames de 
Ste-Marie (de la), C. 4. 
Vivienne, D. 2. 3.‘ 
Vivienne (pass.), D. 2. 
Voltaire (quai), D. 3. 
Voltaire, D. 4. 

Voirie de la), St-Martin 
et St-Denis, F. l. 
i78Voirie (de la), Popin- 
court, F. 3. 

Voirie(dela),Monceaux, 

C. 1. voy. Delaborde. 
Vrilli&re (de la), D. 3. 

Washington (pass.), rue 
du Chantre-St-Honore 

D. 3. 

Watt, F. 5. 4 

Wauxhall (cite du), FA 
Whalhubert (place),F.5 

Zacharie, E. 4. 

Zacharie (passage), E. 4 


PARIS.—IMPRIMERIE DE CRAPELET, 9 , RUE DE VAUGIRARD, 














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